Author Topic: How to calculate taxes in retirement  (Read 2582 times)

WorkingToUnwind

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How to calculate taxes in retirement
« on: September 01, 2024, 10:22:36 AM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

lhamo

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2024, 10:58:35 AM »
Both the MMM Case study spreadsheet (can't remember where the link is, hopefully somebody will post) and the Bogleheads retiree portfolio modeling spreadsheet are VERY helpful for this.  The latter is particularly useful for Roth conversion planning because there is a whole section near the end where you can play around with different amounts and it shows you exactly how far you go into the different tax brackets

https://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=97352

Be aware that the bogleheads sheet will have a TON of red ink (indicating errors) on it until you get it mostly filled in.  Just keep plugging away and eventually the red ink disappears as your model comes together.  I started filling in the 2024 version last night and even though I have done it several times already it still kind of freaked me out at the beginning.

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2024, 07:17:31 AM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

We don't know the details of your portfolio. For example, percentages in tax-deferred, taxable, and Roth. But that the taxable chunk can be pretty tax efficient.

For example, say you have $750K in your tax-deferred space and are married. You can maybe draw $30K a year from that without paying income taxes due to the $30,000-ish standard deduction.

Probably not your situation but if you had (say) $2.5M in your taxable space and you spent $95K of this money, as long as the draws came from qualified dividends and long-term capital gains, you would not pay any income taxes on this money either.

I'm not saying taxable is better than Roth. But gosh, if you can pay zero taxes in retirement as per above scenario? You wouldn't want to pay taxes while working to get money into a Roth.

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2024, 10:59:33 AM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

We don't know the details of your portfolio. For example, percentages in tax-deferred, taxable, and Roth. But that the taxable chunk can be pretty tax efficient.

For example, say you have $750K in your tax-deferred space and are married. You can maybe draw $30K a year from that without paying income taxes due to the $30,000-ish standard deduction.

Probably not your situation but if you had (say) $2.5M in your taxable space and you spent $95K of this money, as long as the draws came from qualified dividends and long-term capital gains, you would not pay any income taxes on this money either.

I'm not saying taxable is better than Roth. But gosh, if you can pay zero taxes in retirement as per above scenario? You wouldn't want to pay taxes while working to get money into a Roth.

We have about 2.1M saved. 700k in brokerage and the rest in various 401ks. We live off 95k/year. So I'm thinking we'll have to withdraw from the brokerage initially while we do a Roth ladder, unless we start putting everything into cash rather than retirement vehicles/brokerage. Even if we did that now and retired in a few years, it wouldn't be enough.

Sandi_k

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2024, 02:18:23 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

Michael Kitces has an excellent article on this. TL;DR: a mix of withdrawing from taxable while converting small amounts to Roth.

https://www.kitces.com/blog/tax-efficient-retirement-withdrawal-strategies-to-fund-retirement-spending-needs/

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2024, 03:55:34 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

We don't know the details of your portfolio. For example, percentages in tax-deferred, taxable, and Roth. But that the taxable chunk can be pretty tax efficient.

For example, say you have $750K in your tax-deferred space and are married. You can maybe draw $30K a year from that without paying income taxes due to the $30,000-ish standard deduction.

Probably not your situation but if you had (say) $2.5M in your taxable space and you spent $95K of this money, as long as the draws came from qualified dividends and long-term capital gains, you would not pay any income taxes on this money either.

I'm not saying taxable is better than Roth. But gosh, if you can pay zero taxes in retirement as per above scenario? You wouldn't want to pay taxes while working to get money into a Roth.

We have about 2.1M saved. 700k in brokerage and the rest in various 401ks. We live off 95k/year. So I'm thinking we'll have to withdraw from the brokerage initially while we do a Roth ladder, unless we start putting everything into cash rather than retirement vehicles/brokerage. Even if we did that now and retired in a few years, it wouldn't be enough.

So I don't your numbers work to retire quite yet, right? But you're really close?

But here's the way a tax accountant looks at your current tax situation if you retired today...

Let's say you do a 4% draw on $2.1M... so that's $84K a year.

The first $30K of that will be taxed at 0% no matter where you draw that money from... because the standard deduction will shelter that... so there is NO reason to not have first $750K stashed in your tax-deferred account. That last $$28K will be taxed at 0 percent because that's qualified dividends and long-term capital gains income on the $700K you have in the taxable account.

The $650K bit in the middle of these two amounts generates another $26K that is taxed mostly at 10% (about $22K?)... and then just a itty bitty $4K piece at 12%.

The point of the above: At today's wealth number, your marginal rate is mostly 10% and it's tough to believe it makes sense to pay taxes on Roth conversions...

BTW if you think about this at the $95K income level, that 12% bracket applies to not $4K of income but $15K. So the dollars get bigger. Obviously. But it seems close to me.


WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2024, 05:41:50 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

We don't know the details of your portfolio. For example, percentages in tax-deferred, taxable, and Roth. But that the taxable chunk can be pretty tax efficient.

For example, say you have $750K in your tax-deferred space and are married. You can maybe draw $30K a year from that without paying income taxes due to the $30,000-ish standard deduction.

Probably not your situation but if you had (say) $2.5M in your taxable space and you spent $95K of this money, as long as the draws came from qualified dividends and long-term capital gains, you would not pay any income taxes on this money either.

I'm not saying taxable is better than Roth. But gosh, if you can pay zero taxes in retirement as per above scenario? You wouldn't want to pay taxes while working to get money into a Roth.

We have about 2.1M saved. 700k in brokerage and the rest in various 401ks. We live off 95k/year. So I'm thinking we'll have to withdraw from the brokerage initially while we do a Roth ladder, unless we start putting everything into cash rather than retirement vehicles/brokerage. Even if we did that now and retired in a few years, it wouldn't be enough.

So I don't your numbers work to retire quite yet, right? But you're really close?

But here's the way a tax accountant looks at your current tax situation if you retired today...

Let's say you do a 4% draw on $2.1M... so that's $84K a year.

The first $30K of that will be taxed at 0% no matter where you draw that money from... because the standard deduction will shelter that... so there is NO reason to not have first $750K stashed in your tax-deferred account. That last $$28K will be taxed at 0 percent because that's qualified dividends and long-term capital gains income on the $700K you have in the taxable account.

The $650K bit in the middle of these two amounts generates another $26K that is taxed mostly at 10% (about $22K?)... and then just a itty bitty $4K piece at 12%.

The point of the above: At today's wealth number, your marginal rate is mostly 10% and it's tough to believe it makes sense to pay taxes on Roth conversions...

BTW if you think about this at the $95K income level, that 12% bracket applies to not $4K of income but $15K. So the dollars get bigger. Obviously. But it seems close to me.



Thank you for laying this all out. I am not planning to stop working for a few years, which will bring us over the finish line so that we can withdraw about 95k and also fund an addition on our home.

Ok, I am not sure I read this entirely correctly. It sounds like you're saying that it might not make sense to pay taxes on a Roth conversion, but how would we access all of our retirement funds otherwise, given that's the bulk of our savings? I also thought that LTCG stacked on top of ordinary income, so depending on the Roth conversion amounts,   I could generate enough income to push the capital gains from selling stocks from the brokerage account into the 15% range.

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2024, 05:51:39 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

Michael Kitces has an excellent article on this. TL;DR: a mix of withdrawing from taxable while converting small amounts to Roth.

https://www.kitces.com/blog/tax-efficient-retirement-withdrawal-strategies-to-fund-retirement-spending-needs/

I am wading through this article. It sounds like what we need to do!

MDM

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2024, 07:41:09 PM »
...the MMM Case study spreadsheet....
Link to the update thread: Case Study Spreadsheet updates

WTU, the back-of-the-envelope calculations post describes one way to do what you want.  Up to you how much effort to expend predicting the future.

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2024, 10:07:27 PM »
Ok, I am not sure I read this entirely correctly. It sounds like you're saying that it might not make sense to pay taxes on a Roth conversion, but how would we access all of our retirement funds otherwise, given that's the bulk of our savings? I also thought that LTCG stacked on top of ordinary income, so depending on the Roth conversion amounts,   I could generate enough income to push the capital gains from selling stocks from the brokerage account into the 15% range.

There are at least two reasons to do Roth conversions.

The first is tax rate arbitrage:  Converting at a lower rate now (like 12%) instead of at a higher rate later (like 24% in your 70s) means you save 12 cents in taxes on every dollar converted.  This is mostly useful if there's a relatively high difference between your "now" rate and your "later" rate.  I think @SeattleCPA is mostly thinking about this reason.

The second is to enable penalty-free access to those traditional IRA assets prior to 59.5 via a Roth conversion ladder.  Depending on your ages and the relative sizes of your various accounts and income streams and expenses and everything else, a Roth conversion ladder can make retiring early feasible when it otherwise might not have been.  I think this is the reason you're focusing on, and it's a valid reason IMHO.

I retired at 46 with a fully funded Roth conversion ladder.  Nine years later, due to the way things turned out, I haven't touched a penny of it yet, and I probably won't need to before 59.5.  But things could have turned out differently, so I'm still glad I had it in place.  I now Roth convert for the first reason (tax arbitrage), but in my situation my "later" rate is reasonably predictably rather high and my minimum "now" rate is very low (probably $0 if I wanted it to be), so I Roth convert to get my "now" rate up much closer to my "later" rate.


SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2024, 05:50:01 AM »
I think @SeattleCPA is mostly thinking about this reason.

Yes, exactly.

Quote
The second is to enable penalty-free access to those traditional IRA assets prior to 59.5 via a Roth conversion ladder.  Depending on your ages and the relative sizes of your various accounts and income streams and expenses and everything else, a Roth conversion ladder can make retiring early feasible when it otherwise might not have been.  I think this is the reason you're focusing on, and it's a valid reason IMHO.

I am not weighting this aspect very heavily at all. For what that's worth. (Just saying that to add context.)

But two comments related to this. First, if you have significant taxable funds, as in your case, you do have significant, easily accessible funds if something comes up. Second, you can draw funds from a traditional IRA early without paying penalties using Section 72(t) "substantially equal periodic payment: rules: https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/substantially-equal-periodic-payments#q2

For the record, I don't think the above gambits "trump" the Roth conversion ladder strategy.

Quote
I retired at 46 with a fully funded Roth conversion ladder.  Nine years later, due to the way things turned out, I haven't touched a penny of it yet, and I probably won't need to before 59.5.  But things could have turned out differently, so I'm still glad I had it in place.  I now Roth convert for the first reason (tax arbitrage), but in my situation my "later" rate is reasonably predictably rather high and my minimum "now" rate is very low (probably $0 if I wanted it to be), so I Roth convert to get my "now" rate up much closer to my "later" rate.

This all makes sense to a tax accountant. Agree with @secondcor521 's strategy.

mistymoney

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2024, 11:38:33 AM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired? We're going to start by pulling money out of our vanguard brokerage account, probably needing 95k/year to live off. I think we'd start a Roth conversion ladder right away, too. It's my understanding that for the brokerage money, any principal we withdraw won't be taxed but the growth will be taxed as capital gains. Does Vanguard tell you what proportion of a given withdrawal is growth? Then I could figure out taxes owed there. Then for the ROTH ladder, I'd essentially do the same calculation?

Michael Kitces has an excellent article on this. TL;DR: a mix of withdrawing from taxable while converting small amounts to Roth.

https://www.kitces.com/blog/tax-efficient-retirement-withdrawal-strategies-to-fund-retirement-spending-needs/

Thanks for this Sandi! I need to explore these types of things a little more myself, although I have a lot fewer options! High 401/IRA balances, and very little in taxable and roths.

I guess in some ways, that means I have less to think about! Still want to maximize income at min taxes as I can, although - I'll be paying plenty in taxes I think. Hopefully, can keep core expenses level, decreases with some debts payoffs, with the marginal tax rates and exemptions adjusting up every year.

mistymoney

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2024, 11:41:41 AM »
Ok, I am not sure I read this entirely correctly. It sounds like you're saying that it might not make sense to pay taxes on a Roth conversion, but how would we access all of our retirement funds otherwise, given that's the bulk of our savings? I also thought that LTCG stacked on top of ordinary income, so depending on the Roth conversion amounts,   I could generate enough income to push the capital gains from selling stocks from the brokerage account into the 15% range.

The first is tax rate arbitrage:  Converting at a lower rate now (like 12%) instead of at a higher rate later (like 24% in your 70s)

question on this! When you hit RMD, lets say you have to take out 100k when you are 75 to sastify the RMD. Can you put 25k into roth? Or do you need to take out 125 to do that? 100K RMD and then the roth need to be on top of that?

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2024, 11:57:51 AM »
Ok, I am not sure I read this entirely correctly. It sounds like you're saying that it might not make sense to pay taxes on a Roth conversion, but how would we access all of our retirement funds otherwise, given that's the bulk of our savings? I also thought that LTCG stacked on top of ordinary income, so depending on the Roth conversion amounts,   I could generate enough income to push the capital gains from selling stocks from the brokerage account into the 15% range.

The first is tax rate arbitrage:  Converting at a lower rate now (like 12%) instead of at a higher rate later (like 24% in your 70s)

question on this! When you hit RMD, lets say you have to take out 100k when you are 75 to sastify the RMD. Can you put 25k into roth? Or do you need to take out 125 to do that? 100K RMD and then the roth need to be on top of that?

The latter.  RMD dollars are not eligible to be Roth converted, and you are eligible to make Roth conversions after satisfying your RMD for the year.  Personally I think that the rule should be that you can intermix Roth conversions and RMDs, but there are people over on Bogleheads who rightfully point out federal regulations that say the RMD must be done first.

mistymoney

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2024, 12:32:45 PM »

I retired at 46 with a fully funded Roth conversion ladder.  Nine years later, due to the way things turned out, I haven't touched a penny of it yet, and I probably won't need to before 59.5. 

Any ddetails on how this came to be??

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #15 on: September 04, 2024, 12:53:31 PM »
Ok, @secondcor521 and @SeattleCPA, I logged into Vanguard and looked into my brokerage account. I took a screenshot from the specID page of the most recent transactions that are LTCG. This is where I'd pick the stocks I want to sell in a given year before my Roth ladder kicks in after 5 years. Basically, I would figure out which stocks I can sell to obtain the 95k I need for the year, then add up the estimated gains from each lot of stocks to figure out the value that will be taxed as capital gains. Of course I have to be aware that I won't start at 0% if my Roth conversion generates enough income.   

MDM

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #16 on: September 04, 2024, 12:57:38 PM »
Basically, I would figure out which stocks I can sell to obtain the 95k I need for the year....
Is that $95K before tax, or $95K after tax?

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #17 on: September 04, 2024, 01:50:30 PM »
Basically, I would figure out which stocks I can sell to obtain the 95k I need for the year....
Is that $95K before tax, or $95K after tax?

The 95k does not include taxes

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #18 on: September 04, 2024, 01:55:28 PM »
Basically, I would figure out which stocks I can sell to obtain the 95k I need for the year....
Is that $95K before tax, or $95K after tax?

The 95k does not include taxes

Oh right, the whole reason I started this thread. I have to pull enough to include paying the taxes too.

MDM

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2024, 04:02:49 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired?
Oh right, the whole reason I started this thread. I have to pull enough to include paying the taxes too.

Depends on whether you want your effective tax rate (so you end up with $95K after tax), or your marginal tax rate (so you can evaluate whether any Roth conversion looks favorable), or some combination of the two.

See Marginal Vs Effective Tax Rates And When To Use Each if those terms aren't familiar.

Can you clarify?  Or ask for clarification on the above?

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2024, 06:17:38 PM »

I retired at 46 with a fully funded Roth conversion ladder.  Nine years later, due to the way things turned out, I haven't touched a penny of it yet, and I probably won't need to before 59.5. 

Any ddetails on how this came to be??

[threadjack]

The first thing that happened was I worked about two years past my bare minimum 4% FIRE date.  During those two years I continued saving in retirement but I also padded my taxable account.

When I FIREd at 46, I made the conservative assumption that my income (other than portfolio income, like dividends and interest) would be zero.  This turned out not to be the case in a few ways:

My Mom passed away about three months after my official FIRE date.  I received some life insurance money from that which IIRC I just put in my checking account and spent it down.

My Dad has been gifting moderately heavily over the past few years.

I discovered piggybacking (see ARS's thread on this topic elsewhere on the forum).

I've been able to collect various refunds and rebates from various things like cashing out credit card points, class action checks, gym reimbursements, credit card signup bonuses, etc.  While small individually, they add up to something each year and noticeable amounts over multiple years.

The plan was always to spend from my taxable first and do Roth conversions that made sense; then start spending from the Roth conversion ladder if needed.  Between the above four NPI (non-portfolio income) sources and the growth in my taxable account, I still have taxable money left.  In fact, my taxable account is about 74% bigger than when I FIREd.

:shrug:

[/threadjack]

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2024, 06:27:30 PM »
How would I go about calculating my tax rate for when we're retired?
Oh right, the whole reason I started this thread. I have to pull enough to include paying the taxes too.

Depends on whether you want your effective tax rate (so you end up with $95K after tax), or your marginal tax rate (so you can evaluate whether any Roth conversion looks favorable), or some combination of the two.

See Marginal Vs Effective Tax Rates And When To Use Each if those terms aren't familiar.

Can you clarify?  Or ask for clarification on the above?

Thanks for the article. I did a little reading and I think both rates would be helpful to know.

I think I'm going to have to withdraw 95k plus taxes from the brokerage account as well as do a Roth conversion of 95k plus taxes for the first five years. I'm going to work on the math around that this this week. Just have to find time when the kids are asleep and I still have the mental capacity to figure this out, haha.


[threadjack]


Carry on, doesn't bother me!

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #22 on: September 05, 2024, 04:58:26 AM »
It sounds like you're saying that it might not make sense to pay taxes on a Roth conversion, but how would we access all of our retirement funds otherwise, given that's the bulk of our savings?

You can access your tax-deferred money without penalty if you're really retiring. You just need to begin drawing regular amounts. This is the Section 72(t) "substantially equal periodic payments" gambit.

Quote
I also thought that LTCG stacked on top of ordinary income, so depending on the Roth conversion amounts,   I could generate enough income to push the capital gains from selling stocks from the brokerage account into the 15% range.

Yes, that's exactly how it works. In effect, your pour ordinary income into the low-tax-rate brackets first... fill them up... and then poor LTCG and qualified dividends into tax brackets.

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #23 on: September 05, 2024, 05:03:36 AM »
I think I'm going to have to withdraw 95k plus taxes from the brokerage account as well as do a Roth conversion of 95k plus taxes for the first five years.

Honestly can't imagine how this works. So in a few years, say, you'll have drained your taxable income (which would have generated mostly tax-free income), filled out a Roth account (which will also generate tax-free income). And that sounds like a wash. But you'll have paid income taxes on the to move the money.

Sorry if I'm being the grumpy old man here, but you really want to check your math with a spreadsheet.

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2024, 05:25:27 AM »
I think I'm going to have to withdraw 95k plus taxes from the brokerage account as well as do a Roth conversion of 95k plus taxes for the first five years.

Honestly can't imagine how this works. So in a few years, say, you'll have drained your taxable income (which would have generated mostly tax-free income), filled out a Roth account (which will also generate tax-free income). And that sounds like a wash. But you'll have paid income taxes on the to move the money.

Sorry if I'm being the grumpy old man here, but you really want to check your math with a spreadsheet.

What's my alternative? I'm not familiar with the 72t withdrawals. Aren't I committed to those once I start withdrawing? I will likely end up working in retirement. Do the withdrawals have to sit for 5 years before they can be used like the Roth conversion? Or could I just do the 72t withdrawals and not have to withdraw from my brokerage account?

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #25 on: September 05, 2024, 05:44:05 AM »
I think I'm going to have to withdraw 95k plus taxes from the brokerage account as well as do a Roth conversion of 95k plus taxes for the first five years.

Honestly can't imagine how this works. So in a few years, say, you'll have drained your taxable income (which would have generated mostly tax-free income), filled out a Roth account (which will also generate tax-free income). And that sounds like a wash. But you'll have paid income taxes on the to move the money.

Sorry if I'm being the grumpy old man here, but you really want to check your math with a spreadsheet.

At these levels, you will also likely be above 400% FPL, and will lose out on any ACA subsidies, after 2026.  (and even under today's rules, it would significantly imlact them)  I did a quick scan of the thread again, and I don't think you mention how you are planning to handle health care, at least in this thread.  This "extra tax" is a significant consideration in planning your costs.

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #26 on: September 05, 2024, 07:48:16 AM »
Aren't I committed to those once I start withdrawing? I will likely end up working in retirement. Do the withdrawals have to sit for 5 years before they can be used like the Roth conversion? Or could I just do the 72t withdrawals and not have to withdraw from my brokerage account?

Here's IRS FAQ on this: https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/substantially-equal-periodic-payments#q2

But I think with SEPP approach, in your case, you'd need to draw until age 59.5. E.g., adding in the new info that you'll work a bit, maybe here's how the income streams work:
1. You take a SEPP from one or a collection of IRAs that produces $30K a year of income. That's tax-free because it's sheltered by your $30K standard deduction. And penalty free because of the Section 72(t) rules.
2. You earn $30K in LTCG and qualified dividends from your taxable account. That's also tax free because it'll be taxed at the 0% tax bracket.
3. You need another $35K a year and you earn that from a PT job. FYI $25K of that will be taxed at a 10% rate. The other $10K at 12%. So $3700 in total income tax.

This ignores the extra income you need maybe because of the taxes on the part-time job. And health insurance. Those are significant. Thus, maybe you need more the $95K. But above shows conceptually how you might structure income streams that burden you with pretty low taxes and without using Roth conversions.

BTW I think you'd want to compare the ten or fifteen years of $3700 a year in taxes ($37K to $54K?) which the above approach burdens you with to the taxes that Roth conversions burden you with. (Maybe that's 22% times $95K for five years per your earlier example? So roughly $21K a year for five years? Or $105K?)
« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 07:52:26 AM by SeattleCPA »

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #27 on: September 05, 2024, 08:39:27 AM »
I learned about early retirement in the early 90s and have been interested in it ever since then.

Back then the Roth conversion ladder hadn't been widely known, so I planned on a 72(t) because that was really the main option for people retiring early.  I only learned about the Roth conversion ladder perhaps five years before FIREing.

Probably the key advantage of a 72(t) is that you don't have to save up that initial five years of expenses.  Which, in your shoes, if you're intending to FIRE soon, have a larger budget, and don't have the five years saved up, can probably save you in taxes as SeattleCPA is pointing out.

One of the main disadvantages of a 72(t) is that you generally have to continue the 72(t) withdrawals until age 59.5 or for five years, whichever is longer, and generally speaking you cannot change the amount of the withdrawal during the entire 72(t) period.  There are exceptions that help address this lack of flexibility, but 72(t)s themselves are a bit arcane and understanding and using the exceptions is more arcane still.  In other words, whoever does your taxes probably doesn't know about 72(t)s and very likely won't be able to answer your questions or help you with them (unless that person is @SeattleCPA ;-) ).

So are you ready to commit to withdrawing, let's use the example number, $30K from your IRA every year between now and age 59.5?  What about the first year which may be a partial year - how do you handle that?  What if you decide to go back to work and want to stop that 72(t) (generally you can't)?  What about inflation over that time period - maybe you'll need $40K in 10 years?  What if your IRA starts running low?  Which 72(t) method and interest rate will you use, and why and how do those things matter?  If you both have IRAs, which one should you use?  Do you want to have multiple 72(t) programs active?  How does one do that?

I like 72(t)s and think with *a lot* of research and understanding people can use them to create workable FIRE plans that have a lower tax cost than Roth conversion ladders.  But I also think that Roth conversion ladders provide budgetary and tax planning flexibility that is a nice benefit to FIREes who might be surprised (as I was) with how their FIRE journey ends up working out in their early years.

I will point out that it is possible to mix and match - I like the idea of doing a 72(t) at a level that you are highly confident you will spend regardless of your circumstances.  So if you want more flexibility, you might follow SeattleCPA's plan with a $20K SEPP in step 1 and a $20K Roth conversion ladder at the end.  The first $10K of the Roth conversion ladder would be tax free and penalty free just like the SEPP would be; the second $10K would, I think, be taxed at 12%, which isn't a bad tax rate.  After five years, if you find you need more spending, having that Roth ladder money available might be helpful.

@SeattleCPA, I did notice one minor thing - the job income from step 3 would also incur FICA taxes, so it's really more like  17-18% and 19-20%, wouldn't it be?  As another aside, I'm going to dig out my taxes from last year and see how things stacked out for me - I may be able to find a more optimal approach myself.

ETA:  OP, the big picture takeaway for you is that those five years of priming the pump with $95K of spending plus $95K of Roth conversions creates five years of pretty high income which will push a big chunk of part of it into the 22% bracket.  Generally speaking, you're going to get more efficient tax results if you avoid that kind of large income hump.  You can spread it out in many ways, including SEPPs, but you should probably try to spread it out.  My hybrid idea above may look more like $20K of Roth conversions for 25 years rather than $95K for 5 years.

ETA2:  You should probably make sure you're actually spending (or are sure you want to spend) that $95K.  If it's actually $60K or something, then your tax picture and thus your long range tax planning approach would probably look quite a bit different.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 09:06:15 AM by secondcor521 »

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #28 on: September 05, 2024, 10:59:10 AM »
Aren't I committed to those once I start withdrawing? I will likely end up working in retirement. Do the withdrawals have to sit for 5 years before they can be used like the Roth conversion? Or could I just do the 72t withdrawals and not have to withdraw from my brokerage account?

Here's IRS FAQ on this: https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/substantially-equal-periodic-payments#q2

But I think with SEPP approach, in your case, you'd need to draw until age 59.5. E.g., adding in the new info that you'll work a bit, maybe here's how the income streams work:
1. You take a SEPP from one or a collection of IRAs that produces $30K a year of income. That's tax-free because it's sheltered by your $30K standard deduction. And penalty free because of the Section 72(t) rules.
2. You earn $30K in LTCG and qualified dividends from your taxable account. That's also tax free because it'll be taxed at the 0% tax bracket.
3. You need another $35K a year and you earn that from a PT job. FYI $25K of that will be taxed at a 10% rate. The other $10K at 12%. So $3700 in total income tax.

This ignores the extra income you need maybe because of the taxes on the part-time job. And health insurance. Those are significant. Thus, maybe you need more the $95K. But above shows conceptually how you might structure income streams that burden you with pretty low taxes and without using Roth conversions.

BTW I think you'd want to compare the ten or fifteen years of $3700 a year in taxes ($37K to $54K?) which the above approach burdens you with to the taxes that Roth conversions burden you with. (Maybe that's 22% times $95K for five years per your earlier example? So roughly $21K a year for five years? Or $105K?)

Holly smokes, that's a big tax savings. Thanks for explaining all of this. I am going to do some more reading on the SEPP approach. I read a Mad Fientist article on early retirement strategies at one point and felt it was too rigid an approach, but I may need to reexamine that. My concern is being locked into that withdrawal until one of us hits 59.5. DH is about 44, so that's roughly 15 years of withdrawals. And what if we need to adjust it so we take out more at some point? Unless this goes by individual accounts. We have like half a dozen retirement accounts, so could we conceivable do this with more than one at a time? Especially if we start with a small account that then runs out of funds after a few years.

Our actual FIRE number is closer to 91-93k and that includes 12k/year for healthcare. I understand it could be more. Obviously I didn't bake in taxes, thinking they're be pretty low but not accounting for potentially having to do a roth ladder and brokerage distribution at the same time.

I make close to 200k/year working 10-15 hours/week. I am perfectly okay with having to work part-time, say 5-7 hours/week, to cover taxes/healthcare/face-punching expenses if need be. I'm probably going to do that just for enjoyment. I just want to think this through thoroughly, in case when DH retires next year, I decide I want to quit when we hit our FIRE number in a few years. We've never come up with an early retirement strategy other than to assume we'd do a Roth ladder. Obviously didn't think that through carefully.


I learned about early retirement in the early 90s and have been interested in it ever since then.

Back then the Roth conversion ladder hadn't been widely known, so I planned on a 72(t) because that was really the main option for people retiring early.  I only learned about the Roth conversion ladder perhaps five years before FIREing.

Probably the key advantage of a 72(t) is that you don't have to save up that initial five years of expenses.  Which, in your shoes, if you're intending to FIRE soon, have a larger budget, and don't have the five years saved up, can probably save you in taxes as SeattleCPA is pointing out.

One of the main disadvantages of a 72(t) is that you generally have to continue the 72(t) withdrawals until age 59.5 or for five years, whichever is longer, and generally speaking you cannot change the amount of the withdrawal during the entire 72(t) period.  There are exceptions that help address this lack of flexibility, but 72(t)s themselves are a bit arcane and understanding and using the exceptions is more arcane still.  In other words, whoever does your taxes probably doesn't know about 72(t)s and very likely won't be able to answer your questions or help you with them (unless that person is @SeattleCPA ;-) ).

So are you ready to commit to withdrawing, let's use the example number, $30K from your IRA every year between now and age 59.5?  What about the first year which may be a partial year - how do you handle that?  What if you decide to go back to work and want to stop that 72(t) (generally you can't)?  What about inflation over that time period - maybe you'll need $40K in 10 years?  What if your IRA starts running low?  Which 72(t) method and interest rate will you use, and why and how do those things matter?  If you both have IRAs, which one should you use?  Do you want to have multiple 72(t) programs active?  How does one do that?

I like 72(t)s and think with *a lot* of research and understanding people can use them to create workable FIRE plans that have a lower tax cost than Roth conversion ladders.  But I also think that Roth conversion ladders provide budgetary and tax planning flexibility that is a nice benefit to FIREes who might be surprised (as I was) with how their FIRE journey ends up working out in their early years.

I will point out that it is possible to mix and match - I like the idea of doing a 72(t) at a level that you are highly confident you will spend regardless of your circumstances.  So if you want more flexibility, you might follow SeattleCPA's plan with a $20K SEPP in step 1 and a $20K Roth conversion ladder at the end.  The first $10K of the Roth conversion ladder would be tax free and penalty free just like the SEPP would be; the second $10K would, I think, be taxed at 12%, which isn't a bad tax rate.  After five years, if you find you need more spending, having that Roth ladder money available might be helpful.

@SeattleCPA, I did notice one minor thing - the job income from step 3 would also incur FICA taxes, so it's really more like  17-18% and 19-20%, wouldn't it be?  As another aside, I'm going to dig out my taxes from last year and see how things stacked out for me - I may be able to find a more optimal approach myself.

ETA:  OP, the big picture takeaway for you is that those five years of priming the pump with $95K of spending plus $95K of Roth conversions creates five years of pretty high income which will push a big chunk of part of it into the 22% bracket.  Generally speaking, you're going to get more efficient tax results if you avoid that kind of large income hump.  You can spread it out in many ways, including SEPPs, but you should probably try to spread it out.  My hybrid idea above may look more like $20K of Roth conversions for 25 years rather than $95K for 5 years.

ETA2:  You should probably make sure you're actually spending (or are sure you want to spend) that $95K.  If it's actually $60K or something, then your tax picture and thus your long range tax planning approach would probably look quite a bit different.

Your entry popped up as I went to hit post on my response to @SeattleCPA
So yes, I am concerned about how rigid this might be given that I might be making enough to completely cover our expenses at different phases of our retirement years. A smaller 72t withdrawal could make sense, as long as I can still do a roth conversion on a different IRA. I checked and we have six of them, with balances varying from 15k to 578k.

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #29 on: September 05, 2024, 11:39:16 AM »
Holly smokes, that's a big tax savings. Thanks for explaining all of this. I am going to do some more reading on the SEPP approach. I read a Mad Fientist article on early retirement strategies at one point and felt it was too rigid an approach, but I may need to reexamine that. My concern is being locked into that withdrawal until one of us hits 59.5. DH is about 44, so that's roughly 15 years of withdrawals. And what if we need to adjust it so we take out more at some point? Unless this goes by individual accounts. We have like half a dozen retirement accounts, so could we conceivable do this with more than one at a time? Especially if we start with a small account that then runs out of funds after a few years.

To avoid penalties, the SEPP has to run on that IRA until that IRA owner is 59.5 and five years have passed since the first SEPP withdrawal.  So if there's a difference in age between you and your DH and you both have IRAs, the length of the SEPP would depend on whose IRA you chose.

SEPP withdrawal dollar amounts are fixed under two of the three IRS methods.  The third method is the RMD method, which works essentially like normal RMDs from traditional IRAs when you reach RMD age (which for you two is probably 75).

SEPPs are done on individual IRA accounts (usually).  You can have multiple SEPPs on multiple IRAs, and each one can be configured differently in terms of SEPP method and interest rate chosen.  You can also split IRAs into smaller ones to have more granular control if you're willing to put up with the complexity and recordkeeping.

Our actual FIRE number is closer to 91-93k and that includes 12k/year for healthcare. I understand it could be more. Obviously I didn't bake in taxes, thinking they're be pretty low but not accounting for potentially having to do a roth ladder and brokerage distribution at the same time.

Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.

Your entry popped up as I went to hit post on my response to @SeattleCPA
So yes, I am concerned about how rigid this might be given that I might be making enough to completely cover our expenses at different phases of our retirement years. A smaller 72t withdrawal could make sense, as long as I can still do a roth conversion on a different IRA. I checked and we have six of them, with balances varying from 15k to 578k.

If you make a Roth conversion from an IRA which you have already included in your 72(t), then the Roth conversion breaks the 72(t).  You'd be hit with penalties, which can be very significant.

There are ways around the rigidity of 72(t), but they are arcane and complicated and require good recordkeeping, and I got the impression you weren't very interested in that kind of thing.  See the comments here on your other thread:  https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/ask-a-mustachian/calculating-taxes-on-withdrawals-while-retired/msg3291681/#msg3291681.  I got interested more in taxes when I realized how much I was paying and how, with effort, I could optimize that stuff.  Maybe that's what's happening with your situation.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 11:42:26 AM by secondcor521 »

joe189man

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #30 on: September 05, 2024, 12:17:24 PM »
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WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #31 on: September 05, 2024, 01:40:40 PM »
Holly smokes, that's a big tax savings. Thanks for explaining all of this. I am going to do some more reading on the SEPP approach. I read a Mad Fientist article on early retirement strategies at one point and felt it was too rigid an approach, but I may need to reexamine that. My concern is being locked into that withdrawal until one of us hits 59.5. DH is about 44, so that's roughly 15 years of withdrawals. And what if we need to adjust it so we take out more at some point? Unless this goes by individual accounts. We have like half a dozen retirement accounts, so could we conceivable do this with more than one at a time? Especially if we start with a small account that then runs out of funds after a few years.

To avoid penalties, the SEPP has to run on that IRA until that IRA owner is 59.5 and five years have passed since the first SEPP withdrawal.  So if there's a difference in age between you and your DH and you both have IRAs, the length of the SEPP would depend on whose IRA you chose.

SEPP withdrawal dollar amounts are fixed under two of the three IRS methods.  The third method is the RMD method, which works essentially like normal RMDs from traditional IRAs when you reach RMD age (which for you two is probably 75).

SEPPs are done on individual IRA accounts (usually).  You can have multiple SEPPs on multiple IRAs, and each one can be configured differently in terms of SEPP method and interest rate chosen.  You can also split IRAs into smaller ones to have more granular control if you're willing to put up with the complexity and recordkeeping.

Our actual FIRE number is closer to 91-93k and that includes 12k/year for healthcare. I understand it could be more. Obviously I didn't bake in taxes, thinking they're be pretty low but not accounting for potentially having to do a roth ladder and brokerage distribution at the same time.

Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.

Your entry popped up as I went to hit post on my response to @SeattleCPA
So yes, I am concerned about how rigid this might be given that I might be making enough to completely cover our expenses at different phases of our retirement years. A smaller 72t withdrawal could make sense, as long as I can still do a roth conversion on a different IRA. I checked and we have six of them, with balances varying from 15k to 578k.

If you make a Roth conversion from an IRA which you have already included in your 72(t), then the Roth conversion breaks the 72(t).  You'd be hit with penalties, which can be very significant.

There are ways around the rigidity of 72(t), but they are arcane and complicated and require good recordkeeping, and I got the impression you weren't very interested in that kind of thing.  See the comments here on your other thread:  https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/ask-a-mustachian/calculating-taxes-on-withdrawals-while-retired/msg3291681/#msg3291681.  I got interested more in taxes when I realized how much I was paying and how, with effort, I could optimize that stuff.  Maybe that's what's happening with your situation.

Ok, so this really changes things if you can take withdrawals from one IRA at one time and then add another IRA later. We have a bunch of 401ks and 403bs that we'd have to rollover. Would we just talk to Vanguard about rolling them over in such a way that the accounts stay separate?

I will have to read up on the three SEPP withdrawal methods.

I'd like to avoid the higher tax brackets when we're forced to take RMDs. That's what I liked about the Roth conversion. Being able to get the money out now and then letting it grow again if I don't need to use it.

You can make a Roth conversion on a different IRA though, correct? Just not on the one you are doing the SEPP withdrawals.

I'd love to keep the math and everything very simple, as finances/tax law is not my forte. But if it means saving thousands of dollars a year by educating myself a little, I'm very willing to do it.

I didn't mean to post twice. I thought I deleted my original thread before anyone commented, but then it didn't delete. Alas, now there are two.

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2024, 02:15:32 PM »
Ok, so this really changes things if you can take withdrawals from one IRA at one time and then add another IRA later. We have a bunch of 401ks and 403bs that we'd have to rollover. Would we just talk to Vanguard about rolling them over in such a way that the accounts stay separate?

You must start each individual SEPP with a specified set of IRAs, a specific method, and interest rate that remain unchanged for the duration of the SEPP.  So if you start SEPP #1 on IRA #1, you cannot add IRA #2 to SEPP #1.  But you can start SEPP #2 (with the same or different method and interest rate) on IRA #2.

You can roll over into IRAs in any fashion you wish.  You can always later combine or split those IRAs as long as (a) they're not inherited IRAs, (b) you can't combine his IRAs with her IRAs, and (c) if you want to go back to work and reverse rollover your IRAs into your new employer's work plan there are some considerations there.

But the simplest would probably be to roll each work plan into it's own IRA at Vanguard, then combine and split from there as you wish.  And yeah, Vanguard is really good at incoming rollovers, so they'll help you out just fine.

I will have to read up on the three SEPP withdrawal methods.

I'd like to avoid the higher tax brackets when we're forced to take RMDs. That's what I liked about the Roth conversion. Being able to get the money out now and then letting it grow again if I don't need to use it.

You can make a Roth conversion on a different IRA though, correct? Just not on the one you are doing the SEPP withdrawals.

Correct.  And you can do a Roth conversion on an IRA and then later start an SEPP program on it.  What you can't do is start an SEPP on an IRA and then do a Roth conversion from that same SEPP IRA.

I'd love to keep the math and everything very simple, as finances/tax law is not my forte. But if it means saving thousands of dollars a year by educating myself a little, I'm very willing to do it.

It's a tradeoff for sure.  I don't know exact amounts but I'm quite sure I've saved myself and my family easily six figures in taxes over the past five years or so just by being knowledgeable and strategic about taxes.

I didn't mean to post twice. I thought I deleted my original thread before anyone commented, but then it didn't delete. Alas, now there are two.

No worries here. ;-)
« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 02:17:15 PM by secondcor521 »

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2024, 06:18:02 PM »
Ok, so this really changes things if you can take withdrawals from one IRA at one time and then add another IRA later. We have a bunch of 401ks and 403bs that we'd have to rollover. Would we just talk to Vanguard about rolling them over in such a way that the accounts stay separate?

You must start each individual SEPP with a specified set of IRAs, a specific method, and interest rate that remain unchanged for the duration of the SEPP.  So if you start SEPP #1 on IRA #1, you cannot add IRA #2 to SEPP #1.  But you can start SEPP #2 (with the same or different method and interest rate) on IRA #2.

You can roll over into IRAs in any fashion you wish.  You can always later combine or split those IRAs as long as (a) they're not inherited IRAs, (b) you can't combine his IRAs with her IRAs, and (c) if you want to go back to work and reverse rollover your IRAs into your new employer's work plan there are some considerations there.

But the simplest would probably be to roll each work plan into it's own IRA at Vanguard, then combine and split from there as you wish.  And yeah, Vanguard is really good at incoming rollovers, so they'll help you out just fine.

I will have to read up on the three SEPP withdrawal methods.

I'd like to avoid the higher tax brackets when we're forced to take RMDs. That's what I liked about the Roth conversion. Being able to get the money out now and then letting it grow again if I don't need to use it.

You can make a Roth conversion on a different IRA though, correct? Just not on the one you are doing the SEPP withdrawals.

Correct.  And you can do a Roth conversion on an IRA and then later start an SEPP program on it.  What you can't do is start an SEPP on an IRA and then do a Roth conversion from that same SEPP IRA.

I'd love to keep the math and everything very simple, as finances/tax law is not my forte. But if it means saving thousands of dollars a year by educating myself a little, I'm very willing to do it.

It's a tradeoff for sure.  I don't know exact amounts but I'm quite sure I've saved myself and my family easily six figures in taxes over the past five years or so just by being knowledgeable and strategic about taxes.

I didn't mean to post twice. I thought I deleted my original thread before anyone commented, but then it didn't delete. Alas, now there are two.

No worries here. ;-)

Well this is definitely a possible strategy. If I work part-time, I can set up a SEPP to make up the difference, and as I gradually scale back work I can add a second SEPP. I can also take some money from my LTCG, as @SeattleCPA had outlined. Wouldn't the goal be to max out the 0% tax bracket from the LTCG? Since that outline had 30k from the SEPP and 35k from a PT job, that would be 65k of income and then you'd take the standard deduction to bring it to 35k and then wouldn't you be able to take another 60k in LTCG, or do you not count the standard deduction when calculating LTCG?

 I'm not sure if it makes more sense to favor getting retirement money out first or brokerage account money. Because conceivably I could earn 35k/year from working and then take the rest from LTCG, letting my retirement funds grow tax free until I really have to tap into them because I've depleted my brokerage account. Just wondering if there's a downside to that, as it seems like it would save the most taxes in the short-term.

That's amazing you've saved yourself and your family that much. I have tried working with my accountant on this stuff and he is just not familiar with FIRE finance strategies. It's too bad. I've thought of switching, but up to now it hasn't been an issue as he knows all the relevant tax stuff for my work situation.

Also, I just started reading up on the three different withdrawal choices for the SEPP and they are... fun. I think I'd go for the annuitization or amortization method, to have a fixed amount withdrawn each year.

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #34 on: September 05, 2024, 07:14:50 PM »
Well this is definitely a possible strategy. If I work part-time, I can set up a SEPP to make up the difference, and as I gradually scale back work I can add a second SEPP. I can also take some money from my LTCG, as @SeattleCPA had outlined. Wouldn't the goal be to max out the 0% tax bracket from the LTCG?

Filling up the 0% LTCG bracket is a pretty attractive idea.  Note that you still might owe state income taxes on those LTCG; many states including mine treat LTCG as ordinary income.  Also, LTCG add to AGI, so anything that is impacted by AGI, such as ACA subsidies, would be impacted.  (FAFSA for college kids is also impacted by AGI.)

Since that outline had 30k from the SEPP and 35k from a PT job, that would be 65k of income and then you'd take the standard deduction to bring it to 35k and then wouldn't you be able to take another 60k in LTCG, or do you not count the standard deduction when calculating LTCG?

Your question, as worded, is ambiguous to me.  But if we assume $35K from a job, $30K from SEPP, and $30K from LTCG, here's a link that let's you visualize how that would be taxed (the $35K from the job and $30K from the SEPP are both ordinary income):

https://engaging-data.com/tax-brackets/?fs=1&reg=65000&cg=30000&yr=2024

Conceptually, your income is stacked, ordinary income on the bottom and LTCG on the top.  The standard (or itemized deduction) is subtracted off the bottom of the stack.  Then any ordinary income is taxed at ordinary income tax brackets and rates.  Then any LTCG is taxed at capital gains brackets and rates.

You'd fill up the 0% LTCG bracket when your taxable income (total income minus standard/itemized deduction) went above $94,050 (MFJ 2024).  As an example:

https://engaging-data.com/tax-brackets/?fs=1&reg=65000&cg=60000&yr=2024

I'm not sure if it makes more sense to favor getting retirement money out first or brokerage account money. Because conceivably I could earn 35k/year from working and then take the rest from LTCG, letting my retirement funds grow tax free until I really have to tap into them because I've depleted my brokerage account. Just wondering if there's a downside to that, as it seems like it would save the most taxes in the short-term.

Tax optimization is often about tradeoffs.  Doing as you suggest (which is more or less what I actually do currently) has one main downside I can see:  selling stock while you're alive might generate LTCG taxes (and probably state income taxes on the gain); but if you didn't sell the stock, then your heirs would get a step up in basis and those LTCG and state income taxes would evaporate.

But of course you have to get spending money from *somewhere*, and the other options (work income, Roth conversions, spending from the IRA early, living in a cave and not using money at all) all have their own drawbacks which are arguably worse.

Whatever plan you come up with, you'll have several goals probably:  minimizing taxes now and later, obtaining spending money, avoiding early withdrawal penalties, avoiding estate tax, living and enjoying your FIRE life, minimizing investment risks, etc.

That's amazing you've saved yourself and your family that much. I have tried working with my accountant on this stuff and he is just not familiar with FIRE finance strategies. It's too bad. I've thought of switching, but up to now it hasn't been an issue as he knows all the relevant tax stuff for my work situation.

Also, I just started reading up on the three different withdrawal choices for the SEPP and they are... fun. I think I'd go for the annuitization or amortization method, to have a fixed amount withdrawn each year.

Very few people are aware of FIRE finance strategies.  I'm still figuring out new wrinkles even after 9 years.  Your accountant might be able to learn them.  He might be able to just run scenarios for you or confirm how tax rules work, which would probably be helpful.  If you want to learn, I think one of the best authors out there is Michael Kitces - you can read his articles at https://www.kitces.com.

One thing you should probably take note of early on is that the amount you can pull from an SEPP is relatively small compared to the IRA balance.  Depending on the interest rate and method, I think it's only a maximum of under 7% of the balance.  Of course if you're trying to do an SEPP for 15 years, you probably don't want to go that high anyway.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 07:29:26 PM by secondcor521 »

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #35 on: September 06, 2024, 06:24:20 AM »
@SeattleCPA, I did notice one minor thing - the job income from step 3 would also incur FICA taxes, so it's really more like  17-18% and 19-20%, wouldn't it be?  As another aside, I'm going to dig out my taxes from last year and see how things stacked out for me - I may be able to find a more optimal approach myself.

Yes, no, that's right. And a good point.

And just a general comment: My real point of view here is not to say that Roth conversions are bad, or Section 72(t) SEPPs are good, but to say, we want to do the analysis and not apply rules of thumb.


SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #36 on: September 06, 2024, 06:30:48 AM »
Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.

Agree 1000% on this point.

But one other point about the rigidity of SEPPs. If you're retiring early and expecting to live on income from your nestegg? There's a rigidity there too. From the expenses side.

Also this point: If you drain your tax-deferred accounts over a longer timeframe, you really are unlikely to run into RMD issues in the later chapters of life.

Finally, if you're making $200K and working a PT schedule? I have to say it, and sorry, but OMY of work is probably a bigger financial positive than the tax planning we're talking about here.

mistymoney

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #37 on: September 06, 2024, 07:11:26 AM »

Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.


can you explain your meaning here a little?

since I'm single, I'll hit the 22% tax rate at relatively low amounts of income (to my eye!), and I have very low taxable and roth balances to try to get crafty with it! All or nearly all living expenses will be taxed coming out of the 401ks.

I still thought it was good to try to minimize money in the 22% tax bracket on an annual basis, but wonder if you had other thoughts on this. Like get the money out earlier in the 22% bracket and direct into taxable or roth accounts before social security comes along?

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #38 on: September 06, 2024, 11:28:27 AM »
@SeattleCPA agree with your recent posts 100%.


Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.


can you explain your meaning here a little?

since I'm single, I'll hit the 22% tax rate at relatively low amounts of income (to my eye!), and I have very low taxable and roth balances to try to get crafty with it! All or nearly all living expenses will be taxed coming out of the 401ks.

I still thought it was good to try to minimize money in the 22% tax bracket on an annual basis, but wonder if you had other thoughts on this. Like get the money out earlier in the 22% bracket and direct into taxable or roth accounts before social security comes along?

Sure.

To the extent you can, you usually want to either defer or accelerate income from years in which it would have been taxed at a "high" tax rate into years in which it will be taxed at a "low" tax rate.  For every dollar you do this with, you save ("high" - "low") tax rate in cents.  For example, getting a dollar taxed at 12% instead of 22% saves you ten cents.  Not much on an individual dollar basis, but it adds up over dollars and years.

I like to imagine each year as it's own tax column, and the higher the column of income, the higher that top marginal rate is going to be.  It's helpful to think a little bit about the future brackets, which ordinarily increase with inflation each year, and which may be compressed again (but who really knows) in 2026.  It's also helpful to think about future income that you may be "forced" to receive, such as SS, a pension, and RMDs - they can be the "required dollars" that you have to work your discretionary plans around.

What I think is a good goal is to, again, to the extent you can, is to shift income from high marginal rate columns / years to lower marginal rate columns / years until it's as even as it can possibly be.

As an example, suppose you inherit a reasonably large traditional IRA from someone.  If you just take the minimum amount required in the first nine years, that 10th year the big slug of income from being forced to take the remaining balance (SECURE Act rules) might push you into the 32% bracket.  But you could pull some or possibly a lot of those 32% dollars into the first nine years and maybe pay 22% or 24% on them instead.

As another example, the OP in this thread was considering essentially $100K Roth conversions for five years on top of their income and paying 22%.  If they spread that out via a combination of part time work, SEPPs, and smaller Roth conversions, they could get the same result in the 12% bracket.  Maybe not all the dollars fit into 12%, but more of them would.

...

A couple of points:

1.  To do this sort of thing, you need to be making educated guesses about the future landscape:  tax law, your spending needs, your investment growth, and more.  I think this is pretty much impossible to do perfectly.  But you can make some estimates and do some sensitivity analysis and make some educated guesses.

2.  There are big wins and small wins.  The big wins are between the 12% bracket and 22% bracket, and the 24% and 32% brackets.  The small wins are between the 10% and 12% bracket, and the 22% and 24% bracket.  The big wins are worthwhile IMHO, the small wins are nice but in the end probably won't be critical for people on this board.

3.  What is a "high" bracket and what is a "low" bracket depends on your lifetime level of wealth.  If you think about "evening out" your income, it's going to be "evened out" at some level.  If you can do the projections (see point #1), you can sort of figure out where that level is.  Then the simple rule becomes:  each year, voluntarily generate taxable income (via Roth conversions for example) up to that level, or try to defer income to a later year if above that level.

4.  The two previous points can result in people expressing different viewpoints.  A person solidly in the 22% bracket with small SS and no pension may think Roth conversions are no big deal.  Another person in their 40s with low expenses who can fill up the 10% and 12% brackets with Roth conversions and minimize the runaway growth on their large 100% stock IRA in their 70s who might be facing the 32% bracket then may say Roth conversions are a huge deal.

5.  I wrote "to the extent you can" a couple of times.  Probably most people when they start to look at multi-year tax optimization already have constraints:  they already have a SS benefit of a certain size, they have a lifestyle of a certain dollar cost they want to maintain, their investments are already a certain way, their taxable is invested a certain way that probably has tax consequences to change, etc.  There also may be that year that is your 25th anniversary and you want to spend that blowout dollar amount to go on that African safari or 15 day European river cruise, which is probably more important than levelizing your marginal income.

6.  Most people are taught to try to defer defer defer taxes.  And usually it's a good idea.  But taken to the extreme, it can work against you.  Let's say you manage to defer a bunch of your salary into a 401(k) while you're working and stay out of the 22% bracket during your working career.  Then you retire and don't spend much, and your 401(k) continues to grow.  If you saved enough and invested well, then by the time you're 75, that RMD might force you through the 24% into the 32% bracket.  You would have saved some money to only defer enough to stay out of the 24% bracket while working and then Roth convert to the 24% bracket in early retirement, both of which could reduce the size of your 401(k) RMD to keep you out of the 32% bracket.

OTOH, you might die before you get to that 32% bracket, and then it becomes your beneficiary's problem.

Hope that helps.

lhamo

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #39 on: September 06, 2024, 11:48:51 AM »
Gonna put in another plug here for the Bogleheads spreadsheet linked above -- especially anyone looking at Roth conversions and how they split out into different tax brackets.  Once you get all your other data/assumptions plugged in, it is REALLY easy to play around with different projected Roth conversion amounts and see how it moves you around the tax brackets (at least as currently outlined by law) and affects your overall tax rates and total projected tax burden over time. 

Also don't forget that one way to get money out of trad IRA buckets is to start living off that bucket while in the early years of retirement, and continue to do some modest conversions.  For me the sweet spot seems to be to do conversions in the 40-50k range in the next 3-4 years (while living mostly off savings and LTCG in the run up to age 59.5), then start doing withdrawals from my trad IRA of 50-60k/year for the next decade to cover most of my living expenses while doing smaller conversions (5-10kish), then continue with 15k conversions to draw down the rest of the trad IRA over the remainder of my life.  This constellation of activities empties my trad IRA bucket by the time I'm in my mid-80s, and puts me at a marginal tax rate of 7-10% for the first portion, and dropping down much lower later in life.  Since it is more likely that taxes will go up rather than down as I age, I'm comfortable paying a bit more now when things are clearer.  The assets I leave behind to my heirs will also be tax advantaged -- huge Roth IRA pot that will go to them tax free, plus a property and brokerage accounts with stepped up basis.  A nice way to leave assets to them that does not complicate their own tax planning.

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #40 on: September 06, 2024, 12:39:33 PM »
Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.

Agree 1000% on this point.

But one other point about the rigidity of SEPPs. If you're retiring early and expecting to live on income from your nestegg? There's a rigidity there too. From the expenses side.

Also this point: If you drain your tax-deferred accounts over a longer timeframe, you really are unlikely to run into RMD issues in the later chapters of life.

Finally, if you're making $200K and working a PT schedule? I have to say it, and sorry, but OMY of work is probably a bigger financial positive than the tax planning we're talking about here.


The more I try to figure out how to spend down our savings in retirement, the more I'm think I should just keep working and saving rather than trying to withdraw anything haha. What I do is not a bad set-up. But at the end of the day, I like the "die with zero" concept. We will eventually save enough to cover our expenses, including taxes. Once we get there, I feel fairly confident we'll have a tax-efficient plan in place for covering our expenses should I decide to stop working alongside DH. We might never use that plan, as I might just keep working forever, but I'd like to know what it is in advance. I wasn't sure if we'd have to save up five year's worth of living expenses in cash. That would've lead to some immediate changes in how we're saving in order to prepare for that possibility. I'm glad that doesn't seem to be necessary, as it didn't seem tax-efficient to lose all the tax savings I get now from putting 60k of my income into a solo401k each year.

I'd also like to figure out how to get my tax-deferred savings into a ROTH sooner rather than later, as I want to set up my 70-year-old self for low taxes in retirement. This SEPP idea is great for the immediate tax savings, but isn't the best strategy long-term to get everything into ROTHs while your tax rate is low? Obviously that would mean converting savings on top of whatever we need to withdraw to live off, and this whole thread has been centered on how expensive of a plan that would be in our case. I just wonder if there's some long-term plan that would allow for that.

WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #41 on: September 06, 2024, 12:44:53 PM »
Well this is definitely a possible strategy. If I work part-time, I can set up a SEPP to make up the difference, and as I gradually scale back work I can add a second SEPP. I can also take some money from my LTCG, as @SeattleCPA had outlined. Wouldn't the goal be to max out the 0% tax bracket from the LTCG?

Filling up the 0% LTCG bracket is a pretty attractive idea.  Note that you still might owe state income taxes on those LTCG; many states including mine treat LTCG as ordinary income.  Also, LTCG add to AGI, so anything that is impacted by AGI, such as ACA subsidies, would be impacted.  (FAFSA for college kids is also impacted by AGI.)

Since that outline had 30k from the SEPP and 35k from a PT job, that would be 65k of income and then you'd take the standard deduction to bring it to 35k and then wouldn't you be able to take another 60k in LTCG, or do you not count the standard deduction when calculating LTCG?

Your question, as worded, is ambiguous to me.  But if we assume $35K from a job, $30K from SEPP, and $30K from LTCG, here's a link that let's you visualize how that would be taxed (the $35K from the job and $30K from the SEPP are both ordinary income):

https://engaging-data.com/tax-brackets/?fs=1&reg=65000&cg=30000&yr=2024

Conceptually, your income is stacked, ordinary income on the bottom and LTCG on the top.  The standard (or itemized deduction) is subtracted off the bottom of the stack.  Then any ordinary income is taxed at ordinary income tax brackets and rates.  Then any LTCG is taxed at capital gains brackets and rates.

You'd fill up the 0% LTCG bracket when your taxable income (total income minus standard/itemized deduction) went above $94,050 (MFJ 2024).  As an example:

https://engaging-data.com/tax-brackets/?fs=1&reg=65000&cg=60000&yr=2024

I'm not sure if it makes more sense to favor getting retirement money out first or brokerage account money. Because conceivably I could earn 35k/year from working and then take the rest from LTCG, letting my retirement funds grow tax free until I really have to tap into them because I've depleted my brokerage account. Just wondering if there's a downside to that, as it seems like it would save the most taxes in the short-term.

Tax optimization is often about tradeoffs.  Doing as you suggest (which is more or less what I actually do currently) has one main downside I can see:  selling stock while you're alive might generate LTCG taxes (and probably state income taxes on the gain); but if you didn't sell the stock, then your heirs would get a step up in basis and those LTCG and state income taxes would evaporate.

But of course you have to get spending money from *somewhere*, and the other options (work income, Roth conversions, spending from the IRA early, living in a cave and not using money at all) all have their own drawbacks which are arguably worse.

Whatever plan you come up with, you'll have several goals probably:  minimizing taxes now and later, obtaining spending money, avoiding early withdrawal penalties, avoiding estate tax, living and enjoying your FIRE life, minimizing investment risks, etc.

That's amazing you've saved yourself and your family that much. I have tried working with my accountant on this stuff and he is just not familiar with FIRE finance strategies. It's too bad. I've thought of switching, but up to now it hasn't been an issue as he knows all the relevant tax stuff for my work situation.

Also, I just started reading up on the three different withdrawal choices for the SEPP and they are... fun. I think I'd go for the annuitization or amortization method, to have a fixed amount withdrawn each year.

Very few people are aware of FIRE finance strategies.  I'm still figuring out new wrinkles even after 9 years.  Your accountant might be able to learn them.  He might be able to just run scenarios for you or confirm how tax rules work, which would probably be helpful.  If you want to learn, I think one of the best authors out there is Michael Kitces - you can read his articles at https://www.kitces.com.

One thing you should probably take note of early on is that the amount you can pull from an SEPP is relatively small compared to the IRA balance.  Depending on the interest rate and method, I think it's only a maximum of under 7% of the balance.  Of course if you're trying to do an SEPP for 15 years, you probably don't want to go that high anyway.

Fortunately our states does not have an income tax, and no tax on LTCG.

That engaging-data website is very helpful! I have also read one or two of Kitces' articles, which have popped up on MMM or when I searched a financial question on google. I might reach out to our accountant just to see what he says, as he's all about tax optimization.


WorkingToUnwind

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #42 on: September 06, 2024, 12:46:51 PM »
Gonna put in another plug here for the Bogleheads spreadsheet linked above -- especially anyone looking at Roth conversions and how they split out into different tax brackets.  Once you get all your other data/assumptions plugged in, it is REALLY easy to play around with different projected Roth conversion amounts and see how it moves you around the tax brackets (at least as currently outlined by law) and affects your overall tax rates and total projected tax burden over time. 

Also don't forget that one way to get money out of trad IRA buckets is to start living off that bucket while in the early years of retirement, and continue to do some modest conversions.  For me the sweet spot seems to be to do conversions in the 40-50k range in the next 3-4 years (while living mostly off savings and LTCG in the run up to age 59.5), then start doing withdrawals from my trad IRA of 50-60k/year for the next decade to cover most of my living expenses while doing smaller conversions (5-10kish), then continue with 15k conversions to draw down the rest of the trad IRA over the remainder of my life.  This constellation of activities empties my trad IRA bucket by the time I'm in my mid-80s, and puts me at a marginal tax rate of 7-10% for the first portion, and dropping down much lower later in life.  Since it is more likely that taxes will go up rather than down as I age, I'm comfortable paying a bit more now when things are clearer.  The assets I leave behind to my heirs will also be tax advantaged -- huge Roth IRA pot that will go to them tax free, plus a property and brokerage accounts with stepped up basis.  A nice way to leave assets to them that does not complicate their own tax planning.

Thanks Llhamo, I'm going to check that out.

ETA that spreadsheet was a bit much for me!
« Last Edit: September 06, 2024, 12:54:04 PM by WorkingToUnwind »

SeattleCPA

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #43 on: September 06, 2024, 01:16:26 PM »
@SeattleCPA agree with your recent posts 100%.


Yeah, the big picture message is you probably want to avoid needlessly pushing your income in any given year into the 22% and higher brackets as long as you are sure you can avoid them in your lifetime.  If you might be in the 22% and higher brackets in your 70s when SS and RMDs hit, then that's a different story.


can you explain your meaning here a little?

since I'm single, I'll hit the 22% tax rate at relatively low amounts of income (to my eye!), and I have very low taxable and roth balances to try to get crafty with it! All or nearly all living expenses will be taxed coming out of the 401ks.

I still thought it was good to try to minimize money in the 22% tax bracket on an annual basis, but wonder if you had other thoughts on this. Like get the money out earlier in the 22% bracket and direct into taxable or roth accounts before social security comes along?

Sure.

To the extent you can, you usually want to either defer or accelerate income from years in which it would have been taxed at a "high" tax rate into years in which it will be taxed at a "low" tax rate.  For every dollar you do this with, you save ("high" - "low") tax rate in cents.  For example, getting a dollar taxed at 12% instead of 22% saves you ten cents.  Not much on an individual dollar basis, but it adds up over dollars and years.

I like to imagine each year as it's own tax column, and the higher the column of income, the higher that top marginal rate is going to be.  It's helpful to think a little bit about the future brackets, which ordinarily increase with inflation each year, and which may be compressed again (but who really knows) in 2026.  It's also helpful to think about future income that you may be "forced" to receive, such as SS, a pension, and RMDs - they can be the "required dollars" that you have to work your discretionary plans around.

What I think is a good goal is to, again, to the extent you can, is to shift income from high marginal rate columns / years to lower marginal rate columns / years until it's as even as it can possibly be.

As an example, suppose you inherit a reasonably large traditional IRA from someone.  If you just take the minimum amount required in the first nine years, that 10th year the big slug of income from being forced to take the remaining balance (SECURE Act rules) might push you into the 32% bracket.  But you could pull some or possibly a lot of those 32% dollars into the first nine years and maybe pay 22% or 24% on them instead.

As another example, the OP in this thread was considering essentially $100K Roth conversions for five years on top of their income and paying 22%.  If they spread that out via a combination of part time work, SEPPs, and smaller Roth conversions, they could get the same result in the 12% bracket.  Maybe not all the dollars fit into 12%, but more of them would.

...

A couple of points:

1.  To do this sort of thing, you need to be making educated guesses about the future landscape:  tax law, your spending needs, your investment growth, and more.  I think this is pretty much impossible to do perfectly.  But you can make some estimates and do some sensitivity analysis and make some educated guesses.

2.  There are big wins and small wins.  The big wins are between the 12% bracket and 22% bracket, and the 24% and 32% brackets.  The small wins are between the 10% and 12% bracket, and the 22% and 24% bracket.  The big wins are worthwhile IMHO, the small wins are nice but in the end probably won't be critical for people on this board.

3.  What is a "high" bracket and what is a "low" bracket depends on your lifetime level of wealth.  If you think about "evening out" your income, it's going to be "evened out" at some level.  If you can do the projections (see point #1), you can sort of figure out where that level is.  Then the simple rule becomes:  each year, voluntarily generate taxable income (via Roth conversions for example) up to that level, or try to defer income to a later year if above that level.

4.  The two previous points can result in people expressing different viewpoints.  A person solidly in the 22% bracket with small SS and no pension may think Roth conversions are no big deal.  Another person in their 40s with low expenses who can fill up the 10% and 12% brackets with Roth conversions and minimize the runaway growth on their large 100% stock IRA in their 70s who might be facing the 32% bracket then may say Roth conversions are a huge deal.

5.  I wrote "to the extent you can" a couple of times.  Probably most people when they start to look at multi-year tax optimization already have constraints:  they already have a SS benefit of a certain size, they have a lifestyle of a certain dollar cost they want to maintain, their investments are already a certain way, their taxable is invested a certain way that probably has tax consequences to change, etc.  There also may be that year that is your 25th anniversary and you want to spend that blowout dollar amount to go on that African safari or 15 day European river cruise, which is probably more important than levelizing your marginal income.

6.  Most people are taught to try to defer defer defer taxes.  And usually it's a good idea.  But taken to the extreme, it can work against you.  Let's say you manage to defer a bunch of your salary into a 401(k) while you're working and stay out of the 22% bracket during your working career.  Then you retire and don't spend much, and your 401(k) continues to grow.  If you saved enough and invested well, then by the time you're 75, that RMD might force you through the 24% into the 32% bracket.  You would have saved some money to only defer enough to stay out of the 24% bracket while working and then Roth convert to the 24% bracket in early retirement, both of which could reduce the size of your 401(k) RMD to keep you out of the 32% bracket.

OTOH, you might die before you get to that 32% bracket, and then it becomes your beneficiary's problem.

Hope that helps.

Great points. I don't want to turn this into a mutual admiration club. But @secondcor521 and I are either on the same spot or very close to that on this stuff.

Also his point about the big tax rate differentials is really, really important BTW.

secondcor521

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #44 on: September 06, 2024, 02:07:43 PM »
Great points. I don't want to turn this into a mutual admiration club. But @secondcor521 and I are either on the same spot or very close to that on this stuff.

Also his point about the big tax rate differentials is really, really important BTW.

Thanks for the kind words, @SeattleCPA, and the admiration is mutual.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled thread programming...

stepingum

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Re: How to calculate taxes in retirement
« Reply #45 on: September 12, 2024, 08:02:03 PM »
This thread has been super insightful! Thank you for sharing your expertise and experience.