Author Topic: Who has done a Arches/Bryce/Zion/Grand Canyon/Mesa Verde trip? Or other NP?  (Read 14158 times)

MayDay

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Update:  we are booking a campsite at either Grand Tetons or Yellowstone!  We will do a two week loop in CO/UT in a couple years when we can commit for a longer trip.  Thanks all!

I posted about this in my journal, but I want to get general advice and not that many people read my journal! 

We have been talking about taking an epic national park trip out west, but eh, it's a far drive.  Plus the kids are little enough at 5 and 7 that they won't remember much.  So, it made sense to wait.  But then my family proposed we all go together for a week this summer!  And it all sounded so fun!  And we totally wanted to go and said yes!  Yay! 

Then we started hashing out plans (thankfully everyone is pretty much in agreement) picking dates, figuring out transportation, etc.  We are debating flying out vs. driving the Minivan Of Awesomeness, and looking at costs.  Holy fuckballs, driving far is expensive y'all.  1500 miles each way to Denver, plus about 600 miles around CO/UT.  Plus park pass, camping fees, extra food costs, misc expenditures like propane, blah blah blah.  So we spent a ton of time today discussing whether we want to spend 3-3.5k on a summer trip.   Most of it is car costs, both in gas and miles we will put on, requiring sooner replacement costs and maintenance.  If we fly and rent a car it works out to be almost exactly the same cost.  So.  Ugh.  We haven't decided for sure.  H is mostly on board with going as he doesn't want to never do anything fun until we are FIRE.  I'm more inclined to not go, but I really want to go!  We talked about what other hypothetical 3k trip we would want to do, and everything else on our list is way more expensive, or just impractical, like a trip to Alaska. 

So the other aspect is whether or not this is just biting off more than we can reasonably chew.  The outline so far is roughly:

Saturday:  fly/drive into Denver then drive to Arches.  Denver-Arches 6 hours.

Monday: drive to Bryce or Zion.  5 hours. 

Friday:  drive to Mesa Verde.  6 hours. 

Sunday: drive to Denver, fly home, MV to Denver 7 hours. 

So it is a ton of time in the car, but it's a nice loop, so cutting any one thing out won't necessarily save much driving time.  I am open to advice from anyone who has been to those places lately.  I haven't been since I was a kid.  The other option is to do the Durango silverton RR, but we'd have to cut a day off Bryce/Zion to do that, plus it is 87$ per person, yikes. 

When we did an epic GC/Bryce/Zion/MV trip when I was about 12 we all loved Bryce and Zion so much, and same with MV, but we thought GC kind of sucked, so no one is much interested in doing that again.

 Our general style is tent camping, simple meals, lots of hiking and ranger programs, the kids like to do junior ranger stuff.  My mom isn't a huge hiker, so she would take the kids some days to do shorter hikes (happily!) while the adults went on longer hikes.  It would be 7 adults and our 2 kids, spread between 2 cars (minivan plus sedan) and probably getting two campsites as each sub-family unit has their own smaller tent. 

Thoughts/Advice/etc welcome.  People are coming from Iowa, Ohio, NC, and Mexico DF.  The later two are flying for sure, Iowa is driving for sure, OH (that's us) is debating.  We are also potential open to other national park loops, but we've all seen badlands/Mt Rushmore a bunch and don't care to see it again.  I guess another option would be Isle Royale- but my feeling is it isn't as spectacular as CO/UT. 
« Last Edit: March 11, 2015, 08:36:24 AM by MayDay »

madamwitty

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This sounds wonderful! DH and I did a Mojave/GC/Bryce/Zion loop one autumn before having kids. (Had to skip Death Valley after DH got food poisoning from our Thanksgiving campfire dinner.) I long to do it again someday with the kids. Zion had AMAZING autumn color and the campgrounds were not too crowded because it was off season. SUPER cold though, especially at Bryce. We decided to skip camping at Bryce and just do a day hike there due to below-freezing temps. We camped at Zion an extra night instead. I was glad that we did. It gave us an extra excuse to drive through beautiful Zion and that was one less time we had to set up / break down the campsite.

I have heard all these places are really crowded in the summer so I suggest booking campsites ASAP if possible (maybe others can comment on that). I couldn't believe how close together all the campsites at Grand Canyon south rim were crammed together. As I mentioned, it was not crowded off season, but I wouldn't want to camp there if every site was occupied.

DecD

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It sounds fantastic.  This is a trip I wouldn't want to miss- memorable time with your extended family camping in amazing spots. 

I haven't done an epic National Parks tour, but I plan to in the future.  My youngest is only 3, so we're staying closer to home and doing shorter camping trips for now, but in a couple of years (summer after next, I hope) I want to start taking a month or 6 weeks leave of absence in the summers to do big camping trips to the national parks.  It's on my priority list.

WYOGO

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There is free BLM camping around Arches and Canyonlands easily accessible. The rangers will tell you where it is but you can see it on the Park maps pretty simply.

Did Monument Valley/Arches/Canyonlands/Mesa Verde/Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Great Sand Dunes as one trip with a friend last year.

You should add Black Canyon of the Gunnison on your way out and Great Sand Dunes on the way back. Both quite scenic and the kiddies will have a blast at Great Sand Dunes...

Have fun!
« Last Edit: March 07, 2015, 08:59:20 PM by WYOGO »

KirstyB

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Did the loop a few years back with an 8 and 6 year old (both who still remember the trip vividly (now 11 and 9) and spent 2 weeks going from Las Vegas back to Las Vegas, via Zion, Bryce, Arches, Momument Valley, Grand Canyon, and back. Had done Mesa Verde previously so didn't add it to this trip, but well worth a visit. We hired an RV to do it - not super MMM, but at easter time (when pretty chilly in Bryce and Zion) it allowed us to camp and self cater.

Tallgirl1204

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A week with a 5&7 year old to do the trip you propose is not enough time.  I recommend that you drastically reduce the Mileage and increase time at each location.  You could come from Arches down to Mesa Verde, with maybe a stop at Hovenweep along the way.  A night or two in Ouray (Olympic sized hot springs pools) and/or Pagosa Springs also.  If the water is still flowing, the creek and campground at Great Sand Dunes is the best possible kid-centered national park activity I've experienced.  Also, if two people in your group are 62 or older, have them get their Golden Age cards ($10 lifetime cost) and ride in each of your cars when you enter a park-- the whole car gets in free if one person has the pass.  This sounds like a great family reunion-- dial the travel part back significantly and it will be wonderful.  Kids take way more time to organize than it seems like they should, so easy does it.  Enjoy!

Tallgirl1204

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Oh, and if Bryce/Zion are your main targets, look at flying into Vegas or Salt Lake, and save Arches for another time.  If that's not enough geography, check out the Escalante and Capitol Reef.  Beautiful free camping in the Escalante.

Colorado Hiker

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I've spent a fair amount of time in the canyon country around Moab, so feel free to ask if you have any questions about that area.  I agree with Tallgirl; fly into SLC if Utah is your priority, a lot more viable to do a week-long Moab/Bryce/Zion loop from SLC than Denver.  Denver would be a good base for a mountains-canyons-ruins loop with Moab at the far end, but a Denver based trip would be longer, and keep in mind that returning from the mountains on a weekend in summer in Colorado can be a nightmare with RV traffic, etc.

Prepube

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+1 Escalante Canyon.  Gorgeous there and close to Bryce, Zion and Capitol Reef Nt'l Parks.  Escalante isn't always mentioned yet it is just as beautiful as the other spots along this route.  In fact, if you are driving from Denver, Boulder, Utah is within a (long) day's drive and there's plenty of camping spots there.  http://boulderutah.com/.  Highway 12 is the most beautiful road in the US, and worth the drive time.  I do it at least once every year on my way to Vegas from Denver.  Calf creek falls are amazing.

Romag

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Sounds fantastic! I am doing Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Great Basin as part of a month-long, post-retirment, mostly solo trip...and finishing with the San Francisco Marathon.

surfhb

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You are about to waste a lot of money!  There's no possible way to do this trip in a week.    :)

I'd fly into Page, AZ and go from there.   

Also,  drive the Burr Trail.....it amazing.   

Thegoblinchief

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I commented on your journal, but after seeing the responses here, yeah, a week is very short. The huge national park trip my parents did when I was younger was three weeks, though the middle week was devoted a wedding in Seattle, so really the NPs were only two weeks, and we only hit 4 major spots: Teddy Roosevelt in ND, Glacier in MT, Yellowstone/Grand Teton, and Mt Rushmore. We spent 3 days each in Glacier and Yellowstone and barely scratched the surface.

We also did drive the entire way from WI, so a few days in those 2 weeks were pure travel days.

My kids do very well on long rides, so we tend to drive everywhere instead of flying, but I gather they are exceptional in that regard. We've survived 850 miles in a single day with them as young as 6,5,2.

Unique User

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I lived in SW Colorado for several years and agree on cutting out Bryce/Zion and adding in Ouray and the Black Canyon with the ages of your kids and the time constraints.  It's only 2 hours from Moab to Mesa Verde.  You can come back up through Ouray/Montrose/Telluride.  The Black Canyon is a great park and totally underrated.  Cascade Falls is Ouray is a great short hike, well the lower part is.  The drive from Mesa Verde to Ouray/Black Canyon goes right by Telluride.  Telluride has a free gondola that runs from the town to the ski area, DD loved riding it when she was a toddler.  So many great hikes in that area, some short.

gnomemom

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I love the Fodor's travel forums for National Park info.  http://www.fodors.com/

We're doing a two week loop this summer - Badlands, Mount Rushmore, Yellowstone, Tetons, Rocky Mountain, home (to Chicago).  We're driving, though.

Next summer, we're planning GC, Bryce, Zion, etc. - and we'll fly to Vegas for that. 

You've gotten some great advice here - Enjoy your trip!


G-dog

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A week is not enough time - you won't really get to see much of any of the sites. Bryce and Zion are close to each other, so easy to see both of those.

Given your kids ages, think about putting Dinosaur national park on your list (maybe not this trip).

Also, Great Sand Dunes near Alamosa, has camp grounds. Just go hang out for a whole day, kids play in the stream and the sand. Climb the sand dunes (not easy).

Mesa verde is one of our favorites - give this site a couple of days, there are camp grounds, as well as a lodge.

primalnuke

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This is advice coming from someone who LOVES road trips. 

How well do your kids do on long car rides?   If they do fine, I recommend driving.  You'll save on airfare and car rental costs.  You'll also be able to bring your own camping gear and food that you cant bring on an airplane.   However, with kids you'll need to plan at least 2 days driving there and 2 days driving back, so you may need more than 1 week if you want to do everything you suggest.  Is there any way you can get 2 weeks off school/work?  If you're going that far you might as well stay longer.  Once you are there, especially if you are camping, your costs should be pretty low.

Only you know your kids.  So only you can answer the drive v.s. fly question.   We recently drove from Northern IL to Orlando and back in 1 week with our 3 year old.  He did fantastic.  I don't think it took much longer than it would have if it was just my husband and I.  It just takes a little more planning.  You just have to make sure you space your stops out so they are getting out of the car every 2-4 hours. 

If you are going to fly, I agree with others and would try for Las Vegas instead of Denver.  Also if you are only going for 1 week you may want to consider sticking to Southwest Utah (if fly into Vegas) or areas closer to Denver (if fly into Denver).   

And regarding the "Will my kids remember it" comment.  I disagree with waiting to do things until the kids will remember it.  You and your husband will have the memories, even if your kids don't. Take a lot of pictures.   As long as they have fun, you will have fun.  Who cares if your kids can remember every moment of the trip? They will remember the feelings of excitement and joy they had of spending time in the parks with their family.  If you wait too long they will be crabby teenagers and will remember only being drug along on a lame trip with mom and dad.  Enjoy them now before the hormones take over!  :)


Sid Hoffman

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I saw one mention of Canyonlands above.  That's another place with great vistas.  It's really best enjoyed from a Jeep, where you can drive the whole park over the course of 2-3 days with some camping in the middle, but now you're talking about spending real money.  The vistas are easily accessible, very close to Arches, and worth stopping by.  I like all of those parks although I agree that unless you're hiking Grand Canyon, you'll probably get more enjoyment from Bryce, Zion, Arches, and Canyonlands.  If you're driving in from the midwest, you may also want to go through Rocky Mountain NP on the way too/from also.

Westoftown

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I agree with the other commenters - you'll need a good 2 weeks for this kind of trip, especially with little ones.  Plus note that if you are going to Arches in the summer its very hot.  My favorite time is in the fall when its great weather and fewer tourists. 

I'm not sure there is a lot for kids of that age to do in Arches quite honestly except do the driving tour around the park.  But for mountain biking its heaven.

Neustache

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We've done this trip, or something close to it, three times with little kids.  But ours was a huge road trip from KC, MO to CA and we hit the NPs on the way out and the way back.  My hubby blogged the trips, if you want to see what it was like.  If you drive, it WILL be rough, BUT you'll only remember the good parts and then foolishly do it again and again! Sigh.  We even warned ourselves last year that we were going to forget the rotten moments and be tempted to do it again....and we are doing it again.  Different NP's, but huge epic road trip. 

gnomemom

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We've done this trip, or something close to it, three times with little kids.  But ours was a huge road trip from KC, MO to CA and we hit the NPs on the way out and the way back.  My hubby blogged the trips, if you want to see what it was like.  If you drive, it WILL be rough, BUT you'll only remember the good parts and then foolishly do it again and again! Sigh.  We even warned ourselves last year that we were going to forget the rotten moments and be tempted to do it again....and we are doing it again.  Different NP's, but huge epic road trip.
I'd love to read your Dh's blog!  I love reading trip reports :)  Will you post a link?  We've done a ton of road trips with our kids (now ages 11,11, & 12), they've been to NJ (we have family there) several times, and Florida several times - all on long road trips.  They are great at it - and I love packing up the minivan and cooler and busting out of here (we live in Chicagoland).  We're heading west for the first time this summer, and I can't wait!

kpd905

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If you only have a week I would cut off a few of the proposed parks.  Maybe do Arches and Canyonlands, or Bryce and Zion, but not all of them in a week.

What month are you planning on doing this?  Average high in Moab for July is 98 degrees. 

NinetyFour

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I was in Moab yesterday (drove past both Canyonlands and Arches), and came back home (southwestern CO) through Ouray today.  So, I know the area pretty well.

A week is way too short a time to do all that you mentioned.

As others said, it can be VERY HOT (like people getting heat stroke and running out of water--scary stuff) in southeastern Utah in the summer.  After mid-June, I tend to stick to CO myself.

I am biased, but I would suggest Arches/Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, and Silverton or Ouray to get the feel of small mountain towns in CO.  There are lots of free camping options.

Feel free to PM me--I will help in any way I can.

ashem

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We are actually doing this trip in June, but we'll be there for 2 weeks! We are flying to Vegas, renting an RV, and driving to Zion, Bryce, Moab - Arches and Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, and then back to Page. Our kids are 11 and 7. If you're camping, be sure to make reservations ASAP.

eostache

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How about flying into Grand Junction, CO? (where I live). It's 25 miles from the CO/UT border. Moab is 1.5 hours away. You could head east or west (or north or south) and see plenty of great places. There is things to see and do in Grand Junction: The red rock canyons of the Colorado National Monument, a dinosaur museum in Fruita, etc. GJ has great hiking.

MayDay

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Thanks all. Reading along, I'm wondering if we should just wait. I agree it's too much to do, upon being reminded of the hell that is summer RV traffic!

I'm not opposed to cutting some stuff out, but once I start cutting, I start decoding that we should skip the whole thing if we can't do 2 weeks.

Re. 2 weeks. H is job hunting and if he gets a new job between now and summer he can easily take a week, but two weeks might not be possible.

Re. Dates, we are looking at the third week of June. We are used to camping in the cold (overnight lows down to 30 is fine).

We hadn't considered LV for flights, I'll look at that. Will check SLC too. 

G-dog

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How about flying into Grand Junction, CO? (where I live). It's 25 miles from the CO/UT border. Moab is 1.5 hours away. You could head east or west (or north or south) and see plenty of great places. There is things to see and do in Grand Junction: The red rock canyons of the Colorado National Monument, a dinosaur museum in Fruita, etc. GJ has great hiking.

Colorado natl monument is fabulous! We've only done the drive through, but there must be hiking.

celticmyst08

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My husband and I did a similar trip on our honeymoon last September. We flew to Vegas (flights were ~$450) and rented a car for about $10/day for 12 days (after pricing it out, driving our own car down would have been only slightly cheaper, plus we'd have spent about 3 days just getting there and back, not including wear and tear on the old car). From Vegas, we did Hoover Dam -> Grand Canyon -> Arches/Canyonlands -> Bryce -> Zion, then back to Vegas. We camped the whole time except for Vegas (3 nights total, one at the beginning and two at the end) and one night near Grand Canyon because we accidentally reserved the campsite for one night too short. National Park campgrounds ranged from $15-25 and at Arches we stayed at a BLM site next to the Colorado River for $13.

I'd also recommend getting the annual National Park pass if you are going to enough parks (each one has a different entrance fee, so you'll have to do a little math). It's $80, but it's good for one year and gets you into all national parks and monuments free.

Edit: If at all possible, avoid doing this during June through August. I went here about 8 years ago with my family in early July, and it was absolutely jam packed. And hot as hell (almost 110 at Arches). In September it was so much better, and much cooler.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2015, 09:46:42 AM by celticmyst08 »

Iron Mike Sharpe

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I have nothing to add, except:  have fun!

We did all of those parks (except Arches) when I was a kid.  Every summer, we'd do a Griswold family vacation.  Pack up a van with gear and see America.  By the time I had graduated from high school, I had at least driven through 45 of the states and been to Canada twice, and in Mexico for about 3 hours.

I hope to see all of those places again once I retire and experience them as an adult.

MrsPete

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We did this a couple years ago, and it was THE BEST vacation we've ever taken.  It WAS a lot of driving, and it wasn't a cheap trip.  Notes on how we did it: 

- Our first thought was to rent an RV, but when we looked at the cost for summer rentals, we changed our minds in a hurry -- even before we added in the cost of gas.  My husband admitted later he was glad that he didn't have to drive the RV through downtown Denver.
- We waited 'til our kids were 13 and 15, and I'm glad.  This was the "sweet spot" between being old enough to endure 5-6 hours in the car and being busy with summer jobs. 
- We planned every minute, the idea being to see as many sites as possible in not-quite 3 weeks.  I made a big notebook with maps, hotel ressies, etc. -- and we never once got lost or made any major mistakes.  The whole trip was smooth sailing.  Let me see if I can say it from memory -- I'm sure they're not in the proper order: 

Flew into Vegas
Zion National Park
Antelope Canyon
____ Dam -- not Hoover, but the second biggest dam
Grand Canyon National Park
Mesa Verde National Park
4 points
Denver, CO: US Mint, CO Rockies baseball, best bookstore EVER, kids went to a rock concert
Arches National Park
Archeological site where they're digging up mammouths
Custer State Park
Wind Cave National Park
Mt. Rushmore National Park: went back to see the night program
Rodeo in Cody, WY
Yellowstone
West Yellowstone: Theater, Wolf and Grizzly Habitat
Grand Tetons
Salt Lake City: water park . . . I know we did more here
Vegas:

- We never planned two marathon-drives back-to-back.  That would've just been too much.
- We opted to stay in hotels.  We had about 3 years of lead time on the trip, and my husband purposefully chose his business-travel hotels to maximize his bonus stays.  Aside from those free stays, we went mostly with Priceline hotels.  I'm glad we went that direction:  We moved pretty much every day, and setting up camp would have made a huge dent in our time.  Also, if you're camping, you have to account for car-space for sleeping bags, pillows, and mattress pads -- we would've had to "move up a size" in our car rental, and that would've required more gas.  By skipping camping, we increased the number of places we visited.  In one week, if you're camping with kids, realistically, you should limit yourself to 2 parks. 
- The most expensive overnights were our in-the-parks cabins.  They were a splurge, but in Yellowstone and Grand Tetons they were the best option.  We did enjoy them. 
- Staying in hotels gave us hot showers (with towels we didn't have to wash), air conditioning and comfortable beds.  Most of the hotels included free breakfast, which was both convenient and a money-saver. 
- We're on the east coast, so we flew to Vegas and rented a small SUV.  Because we rented a million years in advance, our rental was really cheap -- like $450 for 3 weeks.  I'm not quite sure how we scored that smoking hot deal.
- We bought the America the Beautiful pass (is that the right name?) at our first national park stop.  This gave us free entry into all the other national parks; we even used it the next summer in Puerto Rico -- it was the very last week it was valid!  And since two people's names can be on the pass, I lent it to a friend who used it for her family's vacation.  Do not buy until you are physically at the first park; your year begins on the day you purchase the pass.  You should look up the cost of entry for the parks you plan to attend; it may or may not be a good deal for you. 
- Food was a big line item for us, especially with two teenagers.  I thought I was being smart by saving up my credit card rewards points and cashing them in for chain restaurant gift cards.  Surprise:  Unlike here at home, they don't have an Olive Garden or a Sonny's BBQ on every corner out in national parks land.  I brought most of those free restaurant cards home.
- We landed in Vegas late at night, and our first stop the next morning was Walmart, where we purchased a cheap cooler . . . and filled it with sandwich fixings, yogurt, fruit and drinks of all sorts.  This was a monumental money-saver (AND a time saver).  We also bought a cheap knife and cutting board.  We typically ate one meal a day (plus snacks) out of the cooler.  In the summer heat, drinks may've been the biggest single saver.  When we returned to Vegas, we abandoned the cooler in our last hotel.  I hope some staff member took it home and made use of it.  We also had a cardboard box, which held bread, chips, and peanut butter.  When we stopped by the roadside for a picnic, we just needed to take out the cardboard box and the cooler.
- We each packed a rolling carry-on bag with 5 outfits, and we washed clothes every couple days.  If I had it to do again, I'd have everyone pack in a small duffle bag ... and I'd have a large plastic tub in the back of the SUV for dirty clothes. 
- We packed mostly shorts ... but we each packed one pair of jeans and a pair of hiking boots.  We debated jackets but (foolishly) decided they wouldn't be needed in July.  That's how I came to purchase $50 sweatshirts for everyone inside Yellowstone.  The temperature was down in the 40s, and it was that or stay in the room all day. 
- We did lots of hikes (free), but we also splurged on some great programs here and there, which were well worth the cost.  Some that deserve special shout-outs:  1) The Buffalo Safari in Custer State Park; Custer, SD.  Our guide took us to places tourists aren't really allowed to go, and he told us so much about buffalo and how they manage them in the park -- definitely a highlight of our trip.  2) Two ranger-led tours to the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde National Park.  You can't go without a guide, and we were fascinated that people actually lived /thrived in these places.  3) A Cirque show in Vegas; we loved every second of it, and my youngest probably talked about that show every day for two years.  4) Antelope Canyon -- you've seen pictures, I promise you!  It's more incredibly in person -- otherworldly even.
- Our kids were less enthusiastic about the hikes and historical sites, so we interspersed LOTS of teen-friendly activities -- like a water park and a rock concert in Denver.  And some of the most fun things turned out to be unexpected; for example, we were at the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim for July 4, and all the emergency vehicles hosted a parade -- a parade that shot water guns at the spectators!  They provided water guns (blaster type) to the kids, and it was an hour-long free-for-all.  My kids claimed it was one of the highlights of the trip for them. 
- We planned 2-3 days in Vegas at the end of our trip, thinking we'd enjoy lounging by the pools and relaxing before flying home.  It turned out to be 117 degrees, and we couldn't even get a spot in the pools!  It was the least fun of our trip. 

It was an absolutely wonderful trip, and I'd love to do it again, hopefully at a more leisurely pace after we're retired. 

Dee18

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I did that trip when I was 12 and have been back as an adult.  I would not takes kids that young there, especially in the summer.  It will be incredibly hot and crowded and the drives between sights are really long.  We toured Washington state one July when my daughter was that age and that worked out well, but she doesn't remember it.

orcas50

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We camped for a week in Zion last year for spring break. My kids were 7 and 10 at the time. It was an incredible trip and just the right length of time to see most of the park (still not all). We flew from Seattle to Vegas, rented a VW camper van, grocery shopped in Vegas, and hit the road. Snow Canyon State Park camping the first night, then the remaining six nights in Zion. I will repeat what other have said that you have WAY too much on your itinerary for one week. I'd pick one or two parks and spend the week there. It will be ridiculously hot in the UT parks in the summer, however, so I might go for CO instead. Also, were were in Grand Canyon NP a few years ago in June and it was dangerously hot, certainly too much for young kids for sure. We have found that picking one park and getting to know it very well makes for a great family NP vacation, and we have done several over the years.

orcas50

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We did this a couple years ago, and it was THE BEST vacation we've ever taken.  It WAS a lot of driving, and it wasn't a cheap trip.  Notes on how we did it: 

- Our first thought was to rent an RV, but when we looked at the cost for summer rentals, we changed our minds in a hurry -- even before we added in the cost of gas.  My husband admitted later he was glad that he didn't have to drive the RV through downtown Denver.
- We waited 'til our kids were 13 and 15, and I'm glad.  This was the "sweet spot" between being old enough to endure 5-6 hours in the car and being busy with summer jobs. 
- We planned every minute, the idea being to see as many sites as possible in not-quite 3 weeks.  I made a big notebook with maps, hotel ressies, etc. -- and we never once got lost or made any major mistakes.  The whole trip was smooth sailing.  Let me see if I can say it from memory -- I'm sure they're not in the proper order: 

Flew into Vegas
Zion National Park
Antelope Canyon
____ Dam -- not Hoover, but the second biggest dam
Grand Canyon National Park
Mesa Verde National Park
4 points
Denver, CO: US Mint, CO Rockies baseball, best bookstore EVER, kids went to a rock concert
Arches National Park
Archeological site where they're digging up mammouths
Custer State Park
Wind Cave National Park
Mt. Rushmore National Park: went back to see the night program
Rodeo in Cody, WY
Yellowstone
West Yellowstone: Theater, Wolf and Grizzly Habitat
Grand Tetons
Salt Lake City: water park . . . I know we did more here
Vegas:

- We never planned two marathon-drives back-to-back.  That would've just been too much.
- We opted to stay in hotels.  We had about 3 years of lead time on the trip, and my husband purposefully chose his business-travel hotels to maximize his bonus stays.  Aside from those free stays, we went mostly with Priceline hotels.  I'm glad we went that direction:  We moved pretty much every day, and setting up camp would have made a huge dent in our time.  Also, if you're camping, you have to account for car-space for sleeping bags, pillows, and mattress pads -- we would've had to "move up a size" in our car rental, and that would've required more gas.  By skipping camping, we increased the number of places we visited.  In one week, if you're camping with kids, realistically, you should limit yourself to 2 parks. 
- The most expensive overnights were our in-the-parks cabins.  They were a splurge, but in Yellowstone and Grand Tetons they were the best option.  We did enjoy them. 
- Staying in hotels gave us hot showers (with towels we didn't have to wash), air conditioning and comfortable beds.  Most of the hotels included free breakfast, which was both convenient and a money-saver. 
- We're on the east coast, so we flew to Vegas and rented a small SUV.  Because we rented a million years in advance, our rental was really cheap -- like $450 for 3 weeks.  I'm not quite sure how we scored that smoking hot deal.
- We bought the America the Beautiful pass (is that the right name?) at our first national park stop.  This gave us free entry into all the other national parks; we even used it the next summer in Puerto Rico -- it was the very last week it was valid!  And since two people's names can be on the pass, I lent it to a friend who used it for her family's vacation.  Do not buy until you are physically at the first park; your year begins on the day you purchase the pass.  You should look up the cost of entry for the parks you plan to attend; it may or may not be a good deal for you. 
- Food was a big line item for us, especially with two teenagers.  I thought I was being smart by saving up my credit card rewards points and cashing them in for chain restaurant gift cards.  Surprise:  Unlike here at home, they don't have an Olive Garden or a Sonny's BBQ on every corner out in national parks land.  I brought most of those free restaurant cards home.
- We landed in Vegas late at night, and our first stop the next morning was Walmart, where we purchased a cheap cooler . . . and filled it with sandwich fixings, yogurt, fruit and drinks of all sorts.  This was a monumental money-saver (AND a time saver).  We also bought a cheap knife and cutting board.  We typically ate one meal a day (plus snacks) out of the cooler.  In the summer heat, drinks may've been the biggest single saver.  When we returned to Vegas, we abandoned the cooler in our last hotel.  I hope some staff member took it home and made use of it.  We also had a cardboard box, which held bread, chips, and peanut butter.  When we stopped by the roadside for a picnic, we just needed to take out the cardboard box and the cooler.
- We each packed a rolling carry-on bag with 5 outfits, and we washed clothes every couple days.  If I had it to do again, I'd have everyone pack in a small duffle bag ... and I'd have a large plastic tub in the back of the SUV for dirty clothes. 
- We packed mostly shorts ... but we each packed one pair of jeans and a pair of hiking boots.  We debated jackets but (foolishly) decided they wouldn't be needed in July.  That's how I came to purchase $50 sweatshirts for everyone inside Yellowstone.  The temperature was down in the 40s, and it was that or stay in the room all day. 
- We did lots of hikes (free), but we also splurged on some great programs here and there, which were well worth the cost.  Some that deserve special shout-outs:  1) The Buffalo Safari in Custer State Park; Custer, SD.  Our guide took us to places tourists aren't really allowed to go, and he told us so much about buffalo and how they manage them in the park -- definitely a highlight of our trip.  2) Two ranger-led tours to the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde National Park.  You can't go without a guide, and we were fascinated that people actually lived /thrived in these places.  3) A Cirque show in Vegas; we loved every second of it, and my youngest probably talked about that show every day for two years.  4) Antelope Canyon -- you've seen pictures, I promise you!  It's more incredibly in person -- otherworldly even.
- Our kids were less enthusiastic about the hikes and historical sites, so we interspersed LOTS of teen-friendly activities -- like a water park and a rock concert in Denver.  And some of the most fun things turned out to be unexpected; for example, we were at the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim for July 4, and all the emergency vehicles hosted a parade -- a parade that shot water guns at the spectators!  They provided water guns (blaster type) to the kids, and it was an hour-long free-for-all.  My kids claimed it was one of the highlights of the trip for them. 
- We planned 2-3 days in Vegas at the end of our trip, thinking we'd enjoy lounging by the pools and relaxing before flying home.  It turned out to be 117 degrees, and we couldn't even get a spot in the pools!  It was the least fun of our trip. 

It was an absolutely wonderful trip, and I'd love to do it again, hopefully at a more leisurely pace after we're retired.

Not to hijack the thread but, Mrs Pete, I just want you to know I'm saving your itinerary for a future long family trip. It sounds fantastic. Can't wait to show my husband. THANK YOU!!

zinethstache

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We've done the "loop" in a variety of ways 5x now. And are planning to get there in May. We come from Washington state and drive 24 hours to get to Utah day one, THEN we slow down to enjoy the sites.

Coming from the east side you might shorten your loop and avoid the western-most parks.

A park on the East side to consider, and where we really want to go this year again is Natural Bridges. We went there a couple o loop trips back and had this phenomenal rain storm that for some reason tugs at us to get back there again. The likelyhood of a monsoon of a storm happening like that there again is slim to none. We are hoping to traverse down the scary vertical ladders to the bottom. We didn't have enough time to do so last time.

We love Utah's NPs so much we plan to set up shop there when we first FIRE. I want to explore EVERY park at my leisure.

The first trip back in the 1990's we drove my truck and made a bed in it. Our tent housed our provisions. We camped 50% of the nights for free on MLB land, the major expense was the gas of course. I looked at campers, RVers and trailers with envy. We've now done the loop 4 more times in a variety of RVs and this year we will tow a small trailer behind our Jeep. LOVE IT!

And a week is definitely not enough time!

Go have fun:)

MrsPete

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Not to hijack the thread but, Mrs Pete, I just want you to know I'm saving your itinerary for a future long family trip. It sounds fantastic. Can't wait to show my husband. THANK YOU!!
Great!  It makes me happy to think that someone else wants to take the same trip.  I spent HOURS AND HOURS in the planning -- which I enjoyed -- but we really did maximize our time and money.  My advice:

- Save
- This is something you're probably doing only once with your children, so let their ages be your guide to picking your time. 
- Plan, choosing your major destinations ... then go over the route with a fine tooth comb, adding in small destinations along the way. 
- Create a notebook with maps, hotel reservations, tickets, and everything else you'll need for the trip.
- I strongly recommend starting in Vegas; plane flights and car rentals are cheap in Vegas. 
And a week is definitely not enough time!
If you have a week, I'd suggest Yellowstone.  Set up once, and you'll have plenty of things to do in and around Yellowstone:

- So many great hikes, and the variety of scenery in Yellowstone is amazing. 
- Museums all over the park.
- We loved the horse ride to the cowboy supper -- expensive, but good food.  We sat with a newly retired couple who were driving cross-country in an RV; we've talked about them numerous times since then. 
- Go into the adjacent town of West Yellowstone to see the omnimax theater show about how the Yellowstone was formed, definitely see the Grizzly and Wolf Reserve, and eat at the pancake house. 
- Go east to Cody to see the rodeo -- we loved it.  Eat at the Irma, which was Buffalo Bill's (?) daughter's place.  Kids will love the "gunfight" outside the Irma every day.
- Go south to Grand Tetons national park.  My favorite hike of our entire trip was the Jenny Lake trail.  WOW, the view from the top of that granite mountaintop.  Probably the most beautiful example of nature I've ever seen.  Consider taking a rafting trip down the Snake River. 
- 3 warnings:  People drive stupidly inside the park -- "Oh, look!  Wildlife!  Let's just stop the car here in the middle of the road!"  Gas is sold inside the park, but ooooh the price.  Bears want to eat your food, and they are capable of removing your car door or trunk to get it. 

If you do Yellowstone, you'll get a "mini-road trip" without the long drives. 

MayDay

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Still reading along.

I'm talking to my brother tonight to hash out schedule.

Funny story: the first time we took a family trip to Yellowstone we camped in a national forest before going in. My mom was totally freaking out about bears, and thinking about sleeping in the minivan so she didn't get eaten. We convinced her she was crazy.

So we all wake up in the morning in there are bear prints all over the sides of the minivan!

bogart

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That is very funny re: the bear prints.  Many years ago I went camping with 2 friends, 1 male and 1 female (and I am female).  As we drove to the site he was rambling on and on about how we were lucky to have a man along with us to take care of danger (etc.).  A young(ish) bear ran across the road in front of our car (plenty far in front, no danger to it, happily, but still quite close enough to see) as we were driving.  We two women slept in the tent, he opted to sleep in the car.  Huh.

I went to Zion about a decade ago and had a week there -- it was great.  Definitely plenty to enjoy for the full week.  I've never been to the other Utah parks though they are certainly on my list of places to get to!

We've done 2 NP parks with our LO, who's now in 2nd grade -- 2 years ago, we did a loop that "summitted" at Mammoth Cave NP in KY, about a 12-hour drive from our home.  We drove there towing our camping trailer and stayed in state parks en route (one going, one coming back).  It was great.  I think we had a week at the NP and about 5 days in each SP (plus a couple, well, 4, for drive time).  And last summer we flew to Denver and then drove to the Badlands (8 hours, maybe more -- we weren't efficient), the Black Hills, and then back via Rocky Mountain NP with a couple nights in Estes Park CO.  It was great.  If I had it to do over, I might skip the "oh let's take a long drive across Nebraska" part, but it was interesting (to us) scenery -- very different from where we live and offers some sense, I like to imagine, of just how vast this country is.

Remember that kids are as happy building campfires or swimming or flinging rocks in a stream as they are hiking to (or viewing) some unforgettable (to adults) site.  You don't "need" to go to a NP to have a great vacation with your kids, and you shouldn't judge how long you'll enjoy being there by how long it will take you to see the "major sites" within any given park.  But that said, count me (obviously) among those not dissuaded by that "detail" or by the awareness that they won't remember it (in the same way we do, or maybe at all) when they are grown.  They still remember if for awhile, and as I say, it can expose them to sights/exosystems/etc., grossly different from what they are used to.  I mean, as far as my son knows (from looking around where we live) the world is basically pine forests that grow on hilly (but not mountainous) terrain.  And cleared components of that, stocked with (a) houses/retail; (b) cows/sheep; or (c) corn/soybeans, depending.  But from our trips he now knows what the inside of a cave looks like, has seen deep caverns (canyons), high mountains (Rockies), the Badlands (which are quite amazing), prairies, bison, bighorns, antelopes, burros, prairie dogs, mammoth remains.  And maybe by the time he is 18, or 28, or 58, he won't remember having seen those things as a kid, but he sure remembers having seen them now.  And we also got to enjoy the parks, and spending time together.

MayDay

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Negotiations with my brother last night. Oh, lol, he does not have kids. Lolol. I kept saying "it's just too much driving for the kids" and kept saying "it's not that much! It's only 6 hours every other day!".  Eventually he got his head wrapped around it and concluded "kids are wimps".

Anyway we were now considering either a full week at Yellowstone or a week at Zion/Bryce with some adults doing day trips to more places. And it looks like we will fly in and out of SLC either way.

southern granny

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I haven't done it yet, but I have already made reservations for later this year.  I will be reading with interest the replies you get.  We are flying to Vegas because the flights are so much cheaper and then driving.  We are staying two weeks and I already have at least a month of stops I want to make, so I have a lot of planning to do.  We will spend a week in Moab and check out that area and then a week in the eastern part of Utah to see Bryce.  Our longest drive will be down to see the Grand Canyon North Rim.  We have never been in this area before so I am excited.  I am finding a lot of great information on Tripadvisor.com

dude

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For the kids, I would highly recommend Grand Teton National Park -- it is the most wildlife-dense place I've ever been to.  I've routinely -- on just about every trip out there (many) seen buffalo, moose, elk, mule deer, grizzly bears, and pronghorn.  They are everywhere.  The kids will freak.  I'd suggest flying into SLC.  It's only 5.5 hours to Jackson Hole, but it's a beautiful drive and there are worthwhile places to camp along the way -- in fact, you might want to consider heading over to City of Rocks first (ID), to check out the amazing rock formations there, do some hiking, and watch the rock climbers ascend the rocks).  Camping is amazing, and there's a hot springs place in town.  Then drive to GTNP. Do some hiking in the park, swim in String Lake, paddle canoes in String Lake or Leigh Lake, take the Jenny Lake ferry across to Inspiration Point and do a day hike in Cascade Canyon (it is indescribably beautiful, and moose sightings are common), camp at Jenny Lake or Gros Ventre (and wake to the majesty of the Tetons each morning (there are almost always herds of buffalo on the road to Gros Ventre, and moose in the camp -- just be sure to scope out the sites and get far, far away from the generator-running-homes-on-wheels RV people), enjoy the al fresco cowboy breakfast or dinner at Dornan's in view of the Grand Teton, drive north to the Teton Lodge, and then up to Yellowstone for a day or two . . .

bognish

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I live in Salt Lake City with kids 4 & 7. We have hit a lot of these parks on long weekend trips and usually camp. It is going to be really hot in June in southern Utah. There is virtually no shade and no water in a lot of the parks you are looking at. The campsites in the parks are great, but most will be fully booked by now. If you are determined to go and can find a place to stay I would suggest a smaller loop: Moab (Arches & CO river), Goblin Valley and Capital Reef. That would be nice and easy in a week and only have 4 hour drives to and from SLC.

Arches has lots of short kid friendly hikes, the campground is really nice, there are lots of areas for kids to explore and adults still have nice desert views. Canyonlands and Dead horse point are nice viewpoints that don't really capture kids attention versus the time it takes to get there. While you are in the Moab area also look into dinosaur fossils & footprints and native American pictographs. There are lots in the area outside of the parks. Colorado river trips and Mill Creek hikes are a good break from the heat near Moab.

Goblin Valley is the best park in Utah for kids. fun to explore for a day, and little wildhorse slot canyon next door could take a second day. This is about 2 hours west from Moab. From Goblin valley the next park is Capital Reef. This has the best Jr Ranger program and house of all of the parks. There is a small creek that runs through the park that is great to wade up. Basically an uncrowded kid friendly version of the Zion narrows.

I think our kids were too small to get much out of Zion last year. We did not find many short hikes, and there are lots of hikes that take you to very exposed cliff tops. I found it to be the most crowded with the congestion focused in areas that are hard to get out of with little kids. We will definitely be going back, but I will try and wait until they are 10+. If you are flying into SLC you could also get some cool weather camping in the mountains close to SLC. Its about 4.5 hour drive to Moab or Capital Reef.

DecD

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For the kids, I would highly recommend Grand Teton National Park -- it is the most wildlife-dense place I've ever been to.  I've routinely -- on just about every trip out there (many) seen buffalo, moose, elk, mule deer, grizzly bears, and pronghorn.  They are everywhere.  The kids will freak.  I'd suggest flying into SLC.  It's only 5.5 hours to Jackson Hole, but it's a beautiful drive and there are worthwhile places to camp along the way -- in fact, you might want to consider heading over to City of Rocks first (ID), to check out the amazing rock formations there, do some hiking, and watch the rock climbers ascend the rocks).  Camping is amazing, and there's a hot springs place in town.  Then drive to GTNP. Do some hiking in the park, swim in String Lake, paddle canoes in String Lake or Leigh Lake, take the Jenny Lake ferry across to Inspiration Point and do a day hike in Cascade Canyon (it is indescribably beautiful, and moose sightings are common), camp at Jenny Lake or Gros Ventre (and wake to the majesty of the Tetons each morning (there are almost always herds of buffalo on the road to Gros Ventre, and moose in the camp -- just be sure to scope out the sites and get far, far away from the generator-running-homes-on-wheels RV people), enjoy the al fresco cowboy breakfast or dinner at Dornan's in view of the Grand Teton, drive north to the Teton Lodge, and then up to Yellowstone for a day or two . . .

This sounds blissful.

southern granny

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Our kids are grown now, but we did tons of road trips with them.  I will share my favorite way to keep them calm in the car.  Yours may be just a little young for this, but maybe not.  I would put 20 one dollar bills in an envelope for each one of the kids.  I told them that any time I had to get on to them, I would take one dollar out of the envelopes.  What ever was left when we got to our destination, they could have for spending money.  It was amazingly effective.  If they got to bickering or got too rowdy, all I had to do was reach for my purse and then total silence.  The few times that I did take money out, I told them that if they were good for the next 50 miles, I would give it back to them.  Of course, I also made sure they had toys and books to keep them occupied. 

Freeme

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Would love to plan this trip, these parks look amazing. Following

MayDay

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Update:  We are finalizing dates and booking a week at a campsite in either Grand Tetons or Yellowstone.

We will do a 2 or 3 week epic loop of some of the Ut/CO parks in a couple years when we can commit to a longer trip.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! 

celticmyst08

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Update:  We are finalizing dates and booking a week at a campsite in either Grand Tetons or Yellowstone.

We will do a 2 or 3 week epic loop of some of the Ut/CO parks in a couple years when we can commit to a longer trip.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!
You'll have a great time! Both of those are great parks. I think it's wise to wait until you have at least 10 days to do the UT/CO loop...there is a LOT to see and a lot of driving.

DH and I are actually planning a Teton/Yellowstone trip in August, too. Very excited!

DecD

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Update:  We are finalizing dates and booking a week at a campsite in either Grand Tetons or Yellowstone.

We will do a 2 or 3 week epic loop of some of the Ut/CO parks in a couple years when we can commit to a longer trip.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

Sounds like a great plan.  I hope it's awesome.

 

Wow, a phone plan for fifteen bucks!