Author Topic: Where to move for rock climbing?  (Read 10123 times)

Financial Ascensionist

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Where to move for rock climbing?
« on: February 26, 2016, 04:06:58 AM »
A few hours ago, I reached my FI number.  I thought it would be just a formality, but I'm happy to report that is feel immensely more satisfying than I originally expected.  It is now time for me to start thinking of my next step: RE.

I currently live in the San Francisco Bay area and after I'm done with work, I want to move to a lower cost of living area.  I would love to dedicate a lot of my newly acquired free time to rock climbing and I'm looking for a place where I can live frugally and enjoy rock cliffs for a good chunk of the year.  Does anyone have some pointers on where I should start my research?

spider1204

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2016, 05:15:15 AM »
Las Vegas, NV - Red Rocks in winter, Mt Charleston in summer, and easy airport access for trips
Lexington, KY - Red River Gorge is great in the spring, amazing in the fall, passable in the summer, and has a short sometimes climbable winter
Chattanooga, TN - I've heard great things but don't actually have any experience with this place.

They all are pretty cheap as well, especially after coming from the bay area.  Otherwise maybe it's time to move into a van and move with the seasons or look into international destinations.  I wrote this more from a sport climbing perspective and while Las Vegas has it all and KY has a bit of trad, if trad / bouldering are more your thing you might want to look elsewhere.

Sweetloveginger

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2016, 05:21:02 AM »
Las Vegas, NV - Red Rocks in winter, Mt Charleston in summer, and easy airport access for trips
Lexington, KY - Red River Gorge is great in the spring, amazing in the fall, passable in the summer, and has a short sometimes climbable winter
Chattanooga, TN - I've heard great things but don't actually have any experience with this place.

They all are pretty cheap as well, especially after coming from the bay area.  Otherwise maybe it's time to move into a van and move with the seasons or look into international destinations.  I wrote this more from a sport climbing perspective and while Las Vegas has it all and KY has a bit of trad, if trad / bouldering are more your thing you might want to look elsewhere.

I've heard amazing things about TN, and had a few climbing friends go live there after college, or for summers.

I also love the van idea, you should do that and start blogging about it so I can live vicariously through you. I'm too much of a homebody to truly enjoy that kid of lifestyle, but it always seemed dreamy to me.


EDTI: congratulations!!!!!!!
« Last Edit: February 26, 2016, 05:31:05 AM by Sweetloveginger »

arebelspy

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2016, 05:24:14 AM »
spider1204 is a good person to listen to on this. :)

(Off topic: You need to update us on your life spider.)

Having lived in Vegas, I can attest to its cheap COL (and having moved there from CA, it was quite refreshing), and the fact that many people come and rock climb there.

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MasterStache

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2016, 05:35:09 AM »
I've been to Red River Gorge (outside of Lexington) and can attest to it's awesome cliffs and rock formations which draw all kinds of rock climbers/adventurers. My son's Boy scout troop even went on a rock climbing trip there. We are going back in about 3 weeks. Absolutely love the hiking trails there. Even if you don't choose Lexington, which has a relatively LCOL, I would suggest a trip to the Gorge.

Congrats on reaching FI.

Jack

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2016, 05:45:10 AM »
What kind of rock climbing are you interested in? Stuff closer to "bouldering" or scaling sheer cliffs like El Capitan? If the former, Tennessee (and the rest of the Appalachians) would be great. If the latter, not so much.

aperture

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2016, 06:15:29 AM »
Moab, Utah

TravelJunkyQC

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2016, 07:03:33 AM »
Agreed that Red River Gorge is amazing for rock climbing. Not much else though, although having gone there a few times for climbing, I can also say that the COL is seemingly very low. I'm a big fan of the Colorado/Arizona/National Parks area (yes, a large surface area) in terms of climbing, and I'm sure you could find some LCOL areas that are close to climbing areas. If you want to get really crazy, Thailand and Laos has some sick climbing and the COL is, obviously, very low - although I'm getting the feeling you want to stay in the States?

Dee18

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2016, 07:21:35 AM »
This thread was so fun to see because I was a lobbyist for the Kentucky Conservation Committee many years ago when there was a plan to dam the gorge (where I regularly climbed during college.) Fortunately, Kentucky did the right thing and saved the gorge.

Back on the thread, the cities recommended by spider1204 vary tremendously, so I suspect if you spend a little time in each you would greatly prefer one over the others.  I teach at a university and over the last few years I have had a number of students whose primary goal was to move to Chattanooga so they could climb in their free time.  I no longer climb, but I have enjoyed some beautiful hiking in the area recently.

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2016, 07:43:13 AM »
Other places not mentioned yet:

- Bishop, CA
- Lake Tahoe, CA
- Reno, NV
- Lander, WY
- Bozeman, MT
- Boulder, CO
- Flagstaff, AR
- Leavenworth, WA
- North Conway, NH
- St George, UT


TravelJunkyQC

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2016, 07:51:30 AM »
Another +1 for North Conway, NH. Rumney is a great climbing spot - although you have to enjoy the winter-time as well (ice climbing maybe?)

Financial Ascensionist

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #11 on: February 26, 2016, 07:53:13 AM »
Thank you, everyone, for all these great recommendations.  I thought this would be such a niche interest that I would not get any engagement but I'm happy to be proven wrong.

I want to stay in the US, at least for the first few years.  Going fire is already going to be plenty of a shock so let's adapt to that before going full global nomad.  My favourite type of climbing is definitely long multi-pitch trad, but I really like all other roped climbing adventures, including sports and aid.   

spokey doke

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2016, 08:00:31 AM »
Given the preferences...Leavenworth WA, as mentioned above is a great spot (or nearby Wenatchee, which has been frequently recommended to outdoor types looking to move to the NW and avoid HCOL).

There is also plenty of multipitch climbing in the canyons south of Missoula, MT - and that is a rather cool spot to live.

While the place is incredible, I'm not a fan of Moab - too much of the motor-head culture there, and I hate climbing sandstone

Daisy

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2016, 08:01:27 AM »
I'm not a climber, but I was recently researching Chattanooga, TN, for a different reason (work related). I read about their climbing and general outdoorsy culture. Lots of kayaking, cycling and hiking too. Sounds like a fun and potential LCOL place to FIRE.

One article referred to it as "the new Boulder".
« Last Edit: February 26, 2016, 08:09:06 AM by Daisy »

MrsDinero

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2016, 08:18:34 AM »
Lander, Wyoming. 

Don't ask me how I know this because I don't climb, but they have an International Climbing Festival every year.   I've heard Lander be called a "climbing mecca" several times.

http://mojagear.com/destinations/2015/07/22/rock-climbing-destination-guide-information-lander-wyoming/


CONGRATS on reaching FIRE!!!  Keep us up to date!

bacchi

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2016, 08:26:07 AM »
Definitely Vegas. Besides Red Rocks, which is great fun, it's a day's drive to Utah and a fairly short drive to Joshua Tree (trad).

Bonus: No income tax in NV.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2016, 08:29:12 AM by bacchi »

Northwestie

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2016, 09:16:21 AM »
Depends what you like - mostly a rock jock cragger?   What wilderness and alpine climbing? 

IMO - been climbing 40 yrs - many of the popular crags now resemble out door gyms so if crowds are an issue I'd go for the wide open spaces.  The earlier suggestion of Bishop is enticing - big peaks, alpine, great backcountry skiing, ice, and bouldering.  And a cool place.

I'd recommend my town Seattle for great alpine access - but it's getting pricey.  Great job market though

livingthedream

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2016, 09:47:11 AM »
Thank you, everyone, for all these great recommendations.  I thought this would be such a niche interest that I would not get any engagement but I'm happy to be proven wrong.

I want to stay in the US, at least for the first few years.  Going fire is already going to be plenty of a shock so let's adapt to that before going full global nomad.  My favourite type of climbing is definitely long multi-pitch trad, but I really like all other roped climbing adventures, including sports and aid.

Sounds like an RV or van would be perfect for you.

powersuitrecall

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2016, 09:48:45 AM »
Whatever you do, consider a month at Squamish BC (September preferably).  I've only bouldered at the base, but there is a ton of long multipitch / trad there.  A provincial park at the base is the perfect spot to hook up with partners, etc.

Congrats BTW!

bognish

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #19 on: February 26, 2016, 11:54:20 AM »
Salt Lake City, UT. Lots of close climbing with a very long season depending on altitude and sun exposure. With a 5 hour drive radius you get endless rock from the southern UT desert to City of Rock ID and Wind River WY. Much more affordable than Boulder or Bishop. Much more active climbing community and Vegas or Reno.

San Fran to Utah is a definite culture shock, but downtown SLC is a much more liberal environment than the states reputation would lead you to believe.

Not a bad place if you are a skier either.

Geostache

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #20 on: February 26, 2016, 11:59:10 AM »
I can't believe no one has mentioned Hueco Tanks, TX, outside of El Paso:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/hueco-tanks/105810691

Not for climbing in the summer, but good most of the year.

RosieTR

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #21 on: February 26, 2016, 12:49:51 PM »
Congrats on the FI!!!!

Of course I'm biased, but I'd say Colorado. A suburb west of Denver...Golden, perhaps, or Evergreen. Unless you love the pretentious vibe of the Bay area, because the Boulder climbers can be...a bit pretentious. Anywhere in CO is going to be a lower COL than SF, though Boulder is among the higher COLs. Tommy Caldwell (of the big-wall El Cap fame) lives in Estes Park, CO. Which is right at the foot of Rocky Mountain National Park if your ambitions are in trad, high-alpine or just plain trad stuff. Up and down Big Thompson Canyon can be found trad and sport climbing, as with many of the canyons between the high mountains and Front Range.

As for the weather-CO has a reputation for being snowy thanks to South Park, but there's so much climbing and so much variation in elevation that, except for a few exceptionally cold or snowy weeks, you just pick the type and face and find an appropriate area which will be possible in less than an hour's drive from the Denver area. Tomorrow, for example, is supposed to be 70F in Denver. Even if that's far above the "average" temperature, it's not uncommon at all to have days in the 50s and 60s sprinkled throughout the winter.
Summer is usually highs in the 80-90s on the plains, 70s at higher elevation. Unlike Las Vegas. The humidity, which might be consideration for further east, is low and the weather in the summer is usually fairly predictable: sunny mornings with chance of afternoon thunderstorms. This means from May to early Oct it's possible to climb every. single. day. OK, perhaps a few (like 3) will be rainy all day, but not commonly.

And, Mr Money himself lives here, so there's definitely a community of FIRE'd folks and folks working toward FIRE. With the dirtbag climber/skier culture, being non-consumerist is generally favorable. The politics are pretty purple, though the red thought tends to be less Bible-thumping and more libertarian. Blue tends to be more environmental/socially liberal and less "tax/ban" everything.

Finally, beer. And pot, if you're into that. And any other sport you want to take up "on the side" (except sports that require a large body of water like sailing).


Financial Ascensionist

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #22 on: February 26, 2016, 10:06:43 PM »
Thank you, everyone, for all the inspiring answers that kept flowing today.  In terms of non-climbing interests, I really like being involved with early stage companies as a mentor or in similar roles.  That makes Seattle score non-trivial points.  I love craft beer as well and this definitely draws my attention towards CO and OR.

Since I will be retiring on a portfolio strongly biased towards stocks, state capital gain tax rate will be a big factor in my decision.  On that front, NH, NV, TN, WA and WY are scoring pretty high. 

Finally, I don't think I will be living near Squamish long term, but I have climbed there and I will definitely be back.

Rock on!

clarkfan1979

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #23 on: February 27, 2016, 12:08:17 AM »
Boulder, CO would have the biggest social scene around rock climbing. However the cost of living is insane. Longmont is even expensive now.

Metric Mouse

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2016, 12:18:56 AM »
Las Vegas, NV - Red Rocks in winter, Mt Charleston in summer, and easy airport access for trips
Lexington, KY - Red River Gorge is great in the spring, amazing in the fall, passable in the summer, and has a short sometimes climbable winter
Chattanooga, TN - I've heard great things but don't actually have any experience with this place.

They all are pretty cheap as well, especially after coming from the bay area.  Otherwise maybe it's time to move into a van and move with the seasons or look into international destinations.  I wrote this more from a sport climbing perspective and while Las Vegas has it all and KY has a bit of trad, if trad / bouldering are more your thing you might want to look elsewhere.

I had a buddy who took off with a partner; they lived in a car and travelled around teaching rock-climbing yoga. Pretty fantastic places out there when you can spend all day doing what you love.

big_slacker

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2016, 07:00:38 AM »
Lived in two of the spots mentioned.

Tahoe is only a 4 hour drive (traffic dependent) and there are so many outdoor bums up there it'll be easy to find roomies and climbing buddies. It's truly paradise, however work can be seasonal, low paying or casino based. There is indoor climbing in north shore but really you should learn to ski or maybe skimo, fatbikes, snowshoe, etc. in the winter to keep you occupied out and outside.

Vegas has calico basin/red rock. You can still be outdoors in the summer, just get up early and be done by 9-10am before it gets roasting. If I can single speed MTB I assuming you can climb.

Good luck!

Financial Ascensionist

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2016, 11:38:10 PM »
That video at the bottom of the Lander, WY article was very touching and inspiring.  This definitely sounds like the kind of place where I would want to spend at least a few years.  I never considered the van life to be my thing, but the list of amazing places that was proposed in this thread is full of areas that one really has to try.  I will have to research that a little bit more, and I really like that FIRE'ing brings this option to the table.

Financial Ascensionist

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2016, 12:20:09 PM »
How bikeable is Vegas?  It looks plenty flat with a reasonably high density of bars and coffee shops, but the torrid summer heat probably makes things challenging. 

arebelspy

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #28 on: February 28, 2016, 12:27:14 PM »
How bikeable is Vegas?  It looks plenty flat with a reasonably high density of bars and coffee shops, but the torrid summer heat probably makes things challenging.

Very bikable.  Not a ton of bike lanes, per se (and you'll hear people tell you drivers there are crazy, but I haven't been in a city yet where people don't say that), but the roads are super wide (tons of lanes), so there's lots of room for you, and you can always take side streets too.

As far as the temperature, it's a dry heat.  I biked to/from summer school in June/July/August multiple years. 

I'd honestly rather bike in the 105 degrees of July than 35 degrees of January.  Our winters have gotten much milder over the last 5-7 years though.
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ponyespresso

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #29 on: February 28, 2016, 12:31:04 PM »
lots of good places in New Mexico, especially for trad climbing. White Rock & Jemez Mountains (near Los Alamos), Sandia Mountains (near ABQ), and Diablo canyon near Santa Fe are all popular climbing areas in Northern New Mexico. good food, too!

Stasher

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #30 on: February 28, 2016, 01:58:49 PM »

IMO - been climbing 40 yrs - many of the popular crags now resemble out door gyms so if crowds are an issue I'd go for the wide open spaces.  The earlier suggestion of Bishop is enticing - big peaks, alpine, great backcountry skiing, ice, and bouldering.  And a cool place.


Completely agree , easy access to the Sierra Nevadas and a rock climbing community

In Canada , we have more options than what we know to do with, some cheap some not and then there is winter.
Here on the island we frequent many of these spots
(Often we meet foreigners who have bought a van to live in and stay here for 6months)
Comox Crags just outside of Cumberland
Sunnyside/Darkside Crags just outside of Nanaimo
Crest Creek Crags just outside of Gold River

As mentioned then there is Squamish , not much like it directly overlooking a major town

Lastly , nowhere to really live but other than Yosemite the greatest climbing in North America is the Bugaboos in the heart of BC
It is surreal and after my trip there last year I will be going annually. Think of Patagonia without leaving the continent.



Chaplin

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #31 on: February 28, 2016, 03:43:08 PM »
In Canada , we have more options than what we know to do with, some cheap some not and then there is winter.
Here on the island we frequent many of these spots
(Often we meet foreigners who have bought a van to live in and stay here for 6months)
Comox Crags just outside of Cumberland
Sunnyside/Darkside Crags just outside of Nanaimo
Crest Creek Crags just outside of Gold River

As mentioned then there is Squamish , not much like it directly overlooking a major town

Lastly , nowhere to really live but other than Yosemite the greatest climbing in North America is the Bugaboos in the heart of BC
It is surreal and after my trip there last year I will be going annually. Think of Patagonia without leaving the continent.

Squamish really is fantastic! It was a factor in our decision to move to the area. Sadly, I stopped climbing about four years ago, but as I'm recounting in my journal I working on fixing part of the problem that led to that...

I didn't make it to the Bugaboos, but if I get back into form, it's a must on my list.

Stasher

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #32 on: February 28, 2016, 08:20:12 PM »
Chaplin oh yes !! Squamish visit very soon as well is on my list as a few friends there keep teasing me with the routes they are already sending.

Bugaboo dreaming , one of my fav photos I shot there and can't wait to return.


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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #33 on: March 01, 2016, 01:45:38 PM »
I currently live in Laramie, WY and it is 15 miles from Vedeuwoo, which is similar to Joshua Tree.  Laramie is a pretty great place although housing is a bit much.  If you want a relatively low COL and great climbing then I would probably live in Spearfish, SD (~11,000 people) where you are a few miles from Spearfish Canyon, 30 miles from the amazing needles of the Black Hills, 15 miles from Deadwood (cool historic gambling town), and 30 miles from Rapid City (~80,000 people).  I am biased, however, because the Black Hills are my favorite place in the US. Lander is a great option as others have said, along with Ten Sleep, WY if you don't mind being in the middle of nowhere.

Stasher

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #34 on: March 01, 2016, 02:23:50 PM »
I currently live in Laramie, WY and it is 15 miles from Vedeuwoo, which is similar to Joshua Tree.  Laramie is a pretty great place although housing is a bit much.  If you want a relatively low COL and great climbing then I would probably live in Spearfish, SD (~11,000 people) where you are a few miles from Spearfish Canyon, 30 miles from the amazing needles of the Black Hills, 15 miles from Deadwood (cool historic gambling town), and 30 miles from Rapid City (~80,000 people).  I am biased, however, because the Black Hills are my favorite place in the US. Lander is a great option as others have said, along with Ten Sleep, WY if you don't mind being in the middle of nowhere.

Don't forget you can then hop on over to Devil's Tower also for some fun. I agree, the BlackHills are a beautiful place that doesn't quite get the credit it deserves. Just avoid the place when the bikers show up for Sturgis.

sandandsun

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #35 on: March 01, 2016, 02:27:24 PM »
West Virginia- New River Gorge area- COL doesn't get much cheaper!

Northwestie

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #36 on: March 01, 2016, 04:11:23 PM »
..........been there done that.  There almost is a requirement to fly a Confederate flag on your porch.

sandandsun

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Re: Where to move for rock climbing?
« Reply #37 on: March 02, 2016, 09:55:09 AM »
..........been there done that.  There almost is a requirement to fly a Confederate flag on your porch.

awww :(  there are quite a few left-wing-liberal-progressives here... you just have to hang around long enough to find us :)