At 200k+ budget for a suspension rebuild. Struts & mounts, control arms, tie rods, etc. All in you're probably talking about $4k to get the car up to snuff unless it's been replaced already.
If the traction battery was replaced that is the major expense outside of the inverter. The motor is probably fine as it's go the equivalent of 100k-120k on it.
Maybe worth the risk if you're fine working on the car yourself. That's really the only way cars like that make sense IMO.
You're going to find your major costs associated with running a car with that much mileage and age is simply maintaining it. Just be prepared to drop some money into it as time goes on. I hate to say it, but I think you'll find often a new, inexpensive car will approach the monthly/yearly ownership costs of an older one that isn't maintained by the owner themselves.
The best value cheapie cars these days are mid-90's IMO that don't have all these electronics that can be easily fixed by the shade tree mechanic. Mid 90's Volvos, Subarus, VWs, BMWs all have fairly active followings on online forums with lots of DIY guides available to help.
With a 10 yr powertrain warranty this car will run you about $90/month over 10 years assuming a $2k residual, and get gas mileage maybe just a little bit less than that older Prius (37/43):
https://www.mitsubishicars.com/mirageI'm not saying you should buy either car I'm just saying that's kinda your baseline cost. Anything used in the same commuter car class approaching that would be stupid to buy IMO. Just buy new and don't worry about it (Mitsu builds decent cars too).
For reference I do almost all my own work and have put around $4k-$5k into my car over 14 years. It was ~8 years old when I got it. But I've done a ton of stuff including a transmission replacement (no fun on a FWD car) that I robbed from a $150 parts car I bought.
