Here's a brief trip report for anyone interested. This trip was great, beating even our highest expectations! Mostly followed the original plan (italics) with some slight tweaks:
Day 1 (Friday, 7/2): Land in SEA at 6pm. Camp at Kitsap Memorial State Park. Might take ferry...is it worth it? Everything went super-smooth, and after a quick stop for dinner we were able to reach Kitsap, set up camp, and enjoy a breathtaking sunset over the Hood Canal with the Olympic mountains as a backdrop.
Day 2 (Saturday, 7/3): Drive to North Coast, with potential short detour to Hurricane Ridge on the way. Backcountry beach camping at Hole-in-the-wall. Got up early to get a headstart, and after 1.5 hours looking for our rental car key, finally shook it out of my wife's sleeping bag. Hit up Sequim for groceries, and Port Angeles for a few backpacking items. Drove up to Hurricane Ridge, and did a few short hikes, then back down to Port Angeles for lunch at "Downriggers on the Water." The traffic heading up to Hurricane Ridge by noon was super backed up...felt like we were just early enough to avoid some of that headache. Had a nice afternoon drive to Rialto beach, which was also packed, with tensions high in the parking lot. With the indian reservations still shut down, I think most of the beach traffic was being concentrated at Rialto. Once we were a ways up the beach, things cleared out a bit. Camped on the north side of Hole-In-The Wall. Only one other older couple camping in that section. Camping on the Beach was amazing!
Day 3 (Sunday, 7/4): North coast hiking, then make our way to Hoh campground. Hiked back to the car, and decided to add a day-hike on our way to the Hoh. Went to the "Bogachiel River and Ira Springs Wetland Loop," which was a really great rainforest hike a few miles off the highway in the National Forest. Only a few other cars at the trailhead. Did about a 4 mile loop among some giant trees. Afterwards, we went in to the Hoh, where the wait to get in was close to an hour...pretty long for a Sunday afternoon, but we were able to get settled in a wonderful campsite.
Day 4 (Monday, 7/5): Hike Hoh River Trail to backcountry site at Lewis Meadow (10.3mi) Got an early start and had the trail basically to ourselves. Easy terrain through the rainforest. Lewis Meadows was a nice backcountry campground with several nice sites in the Meadow and along the river.
Day 5 (Tuesday, 7/6): Hike up to Blue Glacier and back to site at Lewis Meadow (14.4mi) Left most of our gear at Lewis Meadow and brought a day pack up to the glacier. It ended up being about a 12-hour hike, very steady climb with bit over 4,000 feet of gain, between mile 12 and the glacier. The rope ladder before Glacier Meadows was a fun obstacle, though my wife felt like it was much more on the sketchy side with missing rungs. The view of the Glacier was beautiful, and well worth the extra Trek up to the top of the lateral morraine. Easy downhill hiking from there back to our camp.
Day 6 (Wednesday, 7/7): Hike Hoh River back to Hoh Campground (10.3mi) Hiked back out, enjoyed it nearly as much as the way in. We saw one black bear with a pair of cubs once we were within 2 miles of the trailhead. At this point, my wife was ready for a shower and real bed, so we cancelled our campground reservation and headed back to a hotel in Sequim, stopping for a bit at Lake Crescent on the way.
Day 7 (Thursday, 7/8): Make our way back towards Seattle. Any must-do day activities on the way? Tentatively staying at Dash Point State Park...might switch to a Hotel. Opted for the 8:45 ferry from Bremerton to Seattle. Loved the ferry ride and views along the way. Spent the rest of the day in Seattle. Explored a bit, rode some electric bikes, walked around the space needle, did the underground tour, Pike Place market, and finally stopped up at Kerry Park for a great view of the city and Mt. Ranier.
Day 8 (Friday, 7/9): Flight departs SEA at 9am
All-in-all, it was a wonderful trip. Because this is MMM, here's a summary of the costs. Definitely not the cheapest vacation we've ever been on...but I feel like overall it was a good value :)
Airfare $685.60
Camping/Lodging $508.96
Rental Car/Parking/Gas/Ferry $440.11
Food/Dining $360.58
Entertainment/Other $102.34
Total: $2097.59