Calling All Roofers - need advice

[2buttons]

So I am scared of heights, and my house needs a new roof.  That means I cannot DIY it, otherwise I would.   

So in the process of getting quotes etc. Being pitched on architectural vs 3 tab shingles.  Architectural are considerably higher in price, like almost 25% more expensive.  I am not sure I am staying in this house longer than 25 years.   

Anything else I need to know/look out for?

Any advice would be appreciated. 

[zephyr911]

Where do you live? In my part of the country, 30 = 15-20 and 40 = 20-25. We always go for the extra, because we plan to hold everything till we die, but it helps that I have a roofing buddy via my real estate business so we don't get gouged. Just shop around, it shouldn't run too much extra. 25% sound excessive.

[Frankies Girl]

I just had my roof done last week and went with the architectural shingles. I live in the Houston, TX and we get frequent storms and hurricanes along with horrific heat that significantly shortens shingle life. Regular three tab shingles barely last 10 years if you're super lucky, and the "lifetime" shingles I got are rated to last around 25 years. They are also rated to not streak with mildew/mold for 10 years, and they are heavier and better constructed so they resist curling and breaking better than 3 tab. I figure no matter how long I'm staying in this house, the extra cost was worth it on the resale (but I like the way they look and know they'll be much better over the long run and got them mainly for my own comfort/security). And holy crap does my house look MUCH better with them. (and hooray on no more leaky roof!)

The difference in cost was around 12% to go with the architectural shingles for me, so I'd suggest shopping around a bit more for roofers and see what the spread is on the cost difference.

[Spork]

Architectural cost more because there is more material in them.  It's a look preference.  I much prefer the look... but it's a preference.

Other advice:
I had a neighbor that was a roofer.  When we had our house re-roofed, he gave us straight talk and a very good price.  He says there is no real difference between 15 year/20 year/30 year/etc shingles.  Quality might vary company to company, but within a company they are the same.  You are basically paying for warranty/insurance.  If you're living there long term, it might make sense.  If not, the warranty might not be worth it.

[dude]

Go with the arc shingles, they look much better, and are easier for the roofer to apply (i.e. to keep straight lines).  I roofed houses as a side gig for many years.

[fishnfool]

A few other things to consider are going with a lighter colored shingle lasts longer than dark.

Your climate would be the deciding factor as to whether you go architectural or 3 tab if it were me. A lot of wind and or heat, spend the extra dough.

One more thing, are they going over existing shingles or does bid include tear off?  IMO you always get a better looking finished roof starting fresh and you can also deal with any rot or weak sheathing once you tear off old shingles.

[Digital Dogma]

So I am scared of heights, and my house needs a new roof.  That means I cannot DIY it, otherwise I would.   

So in the process of getting quotes etc. Being pitched on architectural vs 3 tab shingles.  Architectural are considerably higher in price, like almost 25% more expensive.  I am not sure I am staying in this house longer than 25 years.   

Anything else I need to know/look out for?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Personally I'd go with a high-relief 30 year shingle, and if your roof has any shallow pitches I'd ice and water dam all the way to the peak on that section with some neoprene. Also take note that any warranty for hurricane strength winds requires securing the edges and peak of the shingles, if you don't do that the warranty is worthless.
I'm assuming you'll remove the old roof (you should), so any deal you can find for a dumpster will help reduce your waste removal costs.

Additionally, if you have any trees overhanging your roof it would be a very good idea to trim them wayyyy back away from the roof. There is nothing worse than developing moss or lichen because a tree is shedding organic debris on the roof, moss and lichen consume the materials that the shingles are made out of.

[2buttons]

Appreciate all the responses. I am actually now exploring the warranty on the old shingles as the roof is still under warranty apparently from the previous homeowner, but it looks like the roofer that put it on is out of business. 

Exploring my options, but sounds like the difference, assuming I can get some better quotes, in the arc's is worth the investment. 

Really appreciate all of the advice. 

[zephyr911]

Appreciate all the responses. I am actually now exploring the warranty on the old shingles as the roof is still under warranty apparently from the previous homeowner, but it looks like the roofer that put it on is out of business. 

Exploring my options, but sounds like the difference, assuming I can get some better quotes, in the arc's is worth the investment. 

Really appreciate all of the advice.

Yeah, just for comparison, pretty sure we only paid about 10% extra for them last week. As a premium option, the markup might vary widely, even within your market.

[Spork]

Appreciate all the responses. I am actually now exploring the warranty on the old shingles as the roof is still under warranty apparently from the previous homeowner, but it looks like the roofer that put it on is out of business. 

Exploring my options, but sounds like the difference, assuming I can get some better quotes, in the arc's is worth the investment. 

Really appreciate all of the advice.

I might be wrong... but I am pretty sure the warranty will come from the manufacturer, not the roofer.  If you have some documentation that says "FOO brand shingles with 25 year warranty installed on Dec 4, 2001" ... I think you can talk to FOO and get at least some amount towards new shingles.

[JumpInTheFIRE]

I was a roofer for 10 years and if I was making the decision I would install Archies rather than 3-tabs every time.  They are a lot more durable and look better.  Yes, you pay a little bit of a premium but IMHO it is worth it.  Make sure you put ice/water shield where needed (the whole roof for low slope, valleys/bottom row if you see a lot of ice or snow).  Evaluate the attic venting you currently have and increase the vents if needed (most older houses don't have the venting that current codes require). 

[SomedayStache]

Our insurance company gave us a hefty discount on our homeowners rate because we installed hail resistant shingles.  This wasn't a one time discount - we get this discount each year.  There was a cost difference in the hail resistant shingles - but we recouped that cost after a few years (forget the exact number, though I did the calculations at the time).  Now we are saving money on our insurance bill every year.

[CATman]

The only difference the different year rating of shingles is the thickness. Don't count on anything, but the workmanship warranty given  by the roofer. Shingle manufacturers are notoriously slippery when it comes to honoring warranties. The only real difference between an architectural and 3-tab is going to be the look. That and most architectural shingles start at a 30 year rating. However, they won't last that long, depending on your location I'd say you're looking at a real life of 15-20 years before they start to get worn to the point where they will need to be replaced.

Do contact your insurance company after having the new roof installed, usually they will offer you a discount for having a new roof.

[MDM]

...if your roof has any shallow pitches I'd ice and water dam all the way to the peak on that section with some neoprene.

Make sure you put ice/water shield where needed (the whole roof for low slope, valleys/bottom row if you see a lot of ice or snow).

How would you define "shallow" or "low"?  E.g., does 5/12 pitch qualify?  Thanks!

[Daleth]

So I am scared of heights, and my house needs a new roof.  That means I cannot DIY it, otherwise I would.   

So in the process of getting quotes etc. Being pitched on architectural vs 3 tab shingles.  Architectural are considerably higher in price, like almost 25% more expensive.  I am not sure I am staying in this house longer than 25 years.   

If you sell it 15-20 years from now, the buyers will care what kind of roof you put on. (And I concur with the poster who said that in some parts of the country the lifespan of a roof is much less than it's supposed to be, so bear that in mind too.) What buyers care about can hold up the deal or require concessions (i.e. money) from you.

[2buttons]

FYI - State farm told me to pound sand on a premium reduction for improving the roof. 

[Digital Dogma]

...if your roof has any shallow pitches I'd ice and water dam all the way to the peak on that section with some neoprene.

Make sure you put ice/water shield where needed (the whole roof for low slope, valleys/bottom row if you see a lot of ice or snow).

How would you define "shallow" or "low"?  E.g., does 5/12 pitch qualify?  Thanks!

I can't provide a fraction for a pitch that would require full ice and water shielding, but let me put it this way and you can probably be the judge - if you can walk right up it, it needs ice and water shield IMO.

The reasoning behind that is as follows - if you have something that falls on your roof - most likely a stick, maybe with some leaves on it, that acts as the start of a dam to capture any additional organic material that catches on the stick till water can no longer flow past. Once water backs up and pools to a certain height (based on the slope) it can get up underneath the shingle above, once that happens if you don't have an ice and water shield laid down on your plywood its going to become soaked with water. The same thing happens in the winter where snow melt collects at the overhang and forms ice, the ice builds up during the freeze/thaw cycle as snow from the roof melts, flows down, and freezes at the bottom. That causes water to back up under the shingles as well. This is why ice and water dam is traditionally used in the valleys and bottom edge of all roofs.

So if you think that an unusually shaped stick could land on the roof and stay put under a light flow of water, you may want to consider ice and water dam on that slope all the way to the top (and crowned).

As a bonus, those areas that are stripped of shingles and fully ice and water shielded are good to go in a rain event, you don't need to put up a tarp once the ice and water dam is fully in place and there is no more exposed plywood. Usually its crunch time between removing shingles and laying them all down due to exposed plywood, and the application of an ice and water shield usually takes way less time than re-laying fresh shingles on a stripped roof.

Also a final tip - if you've got any skylights that may need replacement do it just before or during the roofing job. The skylight frame needs flashing which has to be integrated into the roofing job. Ditto for any solar panel plans you might have. Better to integrate it during the roofing job than to try and hack into your newly shingled roof and risk causing a major problem down the line.

[zephyr911]

FYI - State farm told me to pound sand on a premium reduction for improving the roof.

USAA contacted ME to ask if I had replaced mine, in case I was overpaying. YMMV as with all things, but I'd shop around.

[SomedayStache]

FYI - State farm told me to pound sand on a premium reduction for improving the roof.

State Farm is the entity giving me quite a nice break for my hail resistant roof.  Guess it depends on where you live.
https://www.statefarm.com/insurance/home-and-property/homeowners/discounts/roofing-materials

[2buttons]

FYI - State farm told me to pound sand on a premium reduction for improving the roof.

State Farm is the entity giving me quite a nice break for my hail resistant roof.  Guess it depends on where you live.
https://www.statefarm.com/insurance/home-and-property/homeowners/discounts/roofing-materials

Yup. Not on the list.  Discrimination!!!!

[SomedayStache]

Ah well.  At least it's state-wide and not just because they don't like YOU. =)

[2buttons]

Ah well.  At least it's state-wide and not just because they don't like YOU. =)

Jury is still out on that one.

[Lulee]

You might want to call a local independent insurance agency to see if any companies offer a discount for hail resistant roofing materials (would a metal roof qualify?).  Full disclosure: I used to work for a property and casualty insurance company that only sold through independent agencies and so may have drunk the koolaid as to the benefits of using them over purchasing directly from the company.

If none do, it’s that they don’t calculate that in the nextyear this matters in your area.  But you, if you’ve lived locally for a decade or more, should have a good sense if hail storms are an increasing risk or not.  If you think they're coming more often and starting to be damaging, then it might be worth it to go with those materials to protect your investment over its lifetime and just check at each renewal of your house insurance if the companies serving your area have added this discount which they will once they see a trend of increasing claims for hail damage.