Bike for less than $500

[LearningMustachian72]

I am looking for a bike under $500 for commuting to work.

What are the best sites for new and used bikes? Also any suggestions on models? Willing to spend $500 max but obviously the less, the better.

[uniwelder]

Facebook Marketplace for a used bike, but also check Craigslist, though it doesn't seem to get much traffic anymore.  I would think you shouldn't have to pay more than $200 for a good bike for commuting.  I get my bikes for free from former college students that abandon theirs at university campus.

As for style, I'm not a cyclist, so I just look for something functional.  Hybrid style--- 700c smooth tires, straight handlebars, front and rear fenders are nice, milk crate or similar mounted on the back.

[nereo]

I am looking for a bike under $500 for commuting to work.

What are the best sites for new and used bikes? Also any suggestions on models? Willing to spend $500 max but obviously the less, the better.

Definitely look in the used market.

Beyond that…. Yeah, we are going to need a lot more info.  Like how far and how many hills are in this commute? Is it all on paved surfaces or are there sections of dirt or gravel paths? What’s the weather like? How fit are you? Will you be carrying a lot of cargo frequently?  Is there a kiddo you might want in a carrier?

FWIW I’ve gravitated towards a flat bar with a 1x12 gearing and smooth 700c x 30 tires with panniers.  Works for my needs, which is 3 miles each way on asphalt roads with stretches I share with cars. I’d have a completely different setup if I were going much further or if I was taking dirt paths to get there. Friend with such a commute got a E-bike with knobby tires and commutes daily about 10 miles each way, which is faster than if he drove and he puts in about as much physical effort as I do. He did pay a lot more than $500 though…

[Freedomin5]

Facebook Marketplace for a used bike, but also check Craigslist, though it doesn't seem to get much traffic anymore.  I would think you shouldn't have to pay more than $200 for a good bike for commuting.  I get my bikes for free from former college students that abandon theirs at university campus.

As for style, I'm not a cyclist, so I just look for something functional.  Hybrid style--- 700c smooth tires, straight handlebars, front and rear fenders are nice, milk crate or similar mounted on the back.

@uniwelder How do you know if a bike is abandoned? We live near a university, and I would love to find a new-to-me bike for free on campus. Thanks.

[uniwelder]

Facebook Marketplace for a used bike, but also check Craigslist, though it doesn't seem to get much traffic anymore.  I would think you shouldn't have to pay more than $200 for a good bike for commuting.  I get my bikes for free from former college students that abandon theirs at university campus.

As for style, I'm not a cyclist, so I just look for something functional.  Hybrid style--- 700c smooth tires, straight handlebars, front and rear fenders are nice, milk crate or similar mounted on the back.

@uniwelder How do you know if a bike is abandoned? We live near a university, and I would love to find a new-to-me bike for free on campus. Thanks.

A few weeks after spring semester ends, the parking department goes around to all the bike racks on campus and puts tags on the bicycles. The tags state that if they’re attached after 2 weeks (specific date), then the bicycle will be confiscated and sold at auction.  I wait until that particular day comes and then cut off the lock. Illegal yes, but not unethical in my mind.

I live in a small college town where students make up half the population. This same strategy wouldn’t work in a city.

[Just Joe]

My alma mater puts the bikes up for sale on GovDeals. Many other govt agencies do the same with things like vehicles and bikes.

OP avoid the WalMart bikes. I went that route many years ago. Bike didn't last long. A young friend recently brought me their Walmart mtn bike to inspect b/c the cassette ratchet failed soon after they bought it. Yep, still cheap bikes mostly suitable for kids to ride back and forth in front of the house and not much more. His bike looked like a mtn bike but it was really just a low cost general purpose bike that wouldn't (and didn't) survive a single trip on a mtn bike path.

I bought an entry level Trek ~20 years ago and I'm still riding it today. It has an unknown number of miles but my odometer says about 4000 plus whatever I put on it before the odometer. Maybe 6K? It is looking scruffy these days but I consider that a feature and not a bug. ;) Along the way it became a DIY ebike (BAFANG/Lunacycle kit), grew fenders, smooth tires, lights. What I have now is a commuter bike.   

[Freedomin5]

Facebook Marketplace for a used bike, but also check Craigslist, though it doesn't seem to get much traffic anymore.  I would think you shouldn't have to pay more than $200 for a good bike for commuting.  I get my bikes for free from former college students that abandon theirs at university campus.

As for style, I'm not a cyclist, so I just look for something functional.  Hybrid style--- 700c smooth tires, straight handlebars, front and rear fenders are nice, milk crate or similar mounted on the back.

@uniwelder How do you know if a bike is abandoned? We live near a university, and I would love to find a new-to-me bike for free on campus. Thanks.

A few weeks after spring semester ends, the parking department goes around to all the bike racks on campus and puts tags on the bicycles. The tags state that if they’re attached after 2 weeks (specific date), then the bicycle will be confiscated and sold at auction.  I wait until that particular day comes and then cut off the lock. Illegal yes, but not unethical in my mind.

I live in a small college town where students make up half the population. This same strategy wouldn’t work in a city.

Interesting. Thanks. I’ll have to go exploring on campus in May.

[GuitarStv]

Even a shit bike can do incredible things - I've ridden 70 km on a slightly too small for me second hand crappy wal-mart bike.

Get any cheap bike that you like the look of that doesn't feel too uncomfortable.  Then ride it regularly for a year.  At this point you will have a pretty good idea of what you want.  Otherwise you're just stressing over questions you aren't really in a position to answer yet.

[ChpBstrd]

OP avoid the WalMart bikes.

Seconded.

Here are features to look for:

• $500 is really the floor MSRP for a quality-made new bike that will last several years. At lower price points, you're buying a disposable BSO (bicycle shaped object) that doesn't actually function very well. The ideal deal is a slightly used bike for half of MSRP. Nothing good is sold at WalMart, Academy, Dick's, REO, Bass Pro, etc. though I have seen some moderately interesting bikes in their online stores. Good luck with correct fit though.
• A bicycle ABSOLUTELY MUST fit your body. Think of it more like a custom prosthetic than a vehicle anyone can use. This is THE most important factor. Look up online resources for bike sizing and pay very close attention to how high the frame is (should be 1-2" from crotch when standing), your posture when seated and holding the bars (should be a natural lean forward that doesn't require effort to hold position, not a reach and not too tight), and how your knees move as you pedal (should almost extend straight at bottom of stroke and not fold up into your chest at the top). A bike shop can help you with this, and explain all the adjustment options. Online stores are more of a gamble, or for people who already know their preferred geometry and happen to find it online. The size must be right or you have to get rid of the bike and start over.
• Aluminum frame. You might come across a high-end steel bike but these are ultra rare.
• Quick release wheels, or at the very high end thru-axles. Nuts and bolts are generally a sign that the wheels are department-store quality and probably have a freewheel instead of a freehub. If you buy a freewheel rear wheel, don't be surprised if the axle gets bent on a pot hole or curb.
• It's worth it to familiarize yourself with drivetrain products on the market, and be able to visually identify low-end versus high-end offerings by Shimano, SRAM, and Microshift. E.g. Shimano Tourney is low-end and Shimano Deore - about 5 levels up - is relatively high-end. There's a big difference in durability, ability to tune, and not skipping cassette teeth just as you're pressing hard on the pedals, and this difference is worth hundreds of dollars. The drivetrain *should* be the most expensive parts of a bike because you don't want to be climbing a hill and have the chain slip right at the moment your entire weight is on the pedal.
• Certain brands can be used as shorthand for not being a low-end bike. Cannondale, Trek, Giant, GT, Specialized, Marin, and a few others simply do not make bikes below a certain level. Sure, on their cheapest bikes around $400 you'll find cheapskate decisions like low-end drivetrains, square-taper bottom brackets, or those tiny plastic pedals found on department store bikes. But you won't find garbage like freewheels, steel cranks, nut-and-bolt axles, wedge-type stems, steel seatposts with clamp-and-bolt style seats, or heavy steel handlebars. Remember that upgrading parts is the expensive way to do it, and low-end bikes are generally not upgradeable.
• You may see bikes with grip shifters - a section of the grip you twist to change gears. Most cyclists despise these because you accidentally shift when changing position on the bike. Look for shifters operated by levers convenient for the thumb and pointing finger.
• Commuter bikes with disc brakes may be out of your price range, but put this on your "want" list as you scan the used market on FB marketplace. I personally would rather have a high-end used bike than a mid-range new bike.
• Reserve some cash to pick up a helmet, a good cable lock that can secure both wheels and the frame to a rack or light pole, and perhaps some gloves. Measure your noggin circumference to select the right helmet size. Cambriabike.com has a good clearance section plus they frequently use discount codes. Buy one accessory at a time because they will email you a $10-off coupon code after your purchase.

[Askel]

I am looking for a bike under $500 for commuting to work.

What are the best sites for new and used bikes? Also any suggestions on models? Willing to spend $500 max but obviously the less, the better.

Why the $500 limit? Is this just an arbitrary number you decided on or a "I can't pay my mortgage if I spend more" type situation? 

A $500 limit will have you sifting through the dregs of craigslist/facebook marketplace for something that'll probably need a little bit of work anyway.  Whereas if you can spend say, $1500- you can waltz into any bike shop and roll out on something decked out with all the accessories to make commuting safe an enjoyable like lights, fenders, racks, bags, and maybe some good clothing to boot.   

[SmashYourSmartPhone]

OP avoid the WalMart bikes. I went that route many years ago. Bike didn't last long.

Some do not consider those bicycles, they consider them "bicycle shaped objects."  And many perform about the same.

An easy way to tell the difference: Look at the crank.  If it's a single piece of metal rod bent with an S curve in the middle, it's a BSO.  If it's multiple pieces, it's a bicycle.  There are other ways, but that's the easiest I've found and is fairly reliable.

[GuitarStv]

I rode a free (relative gave it to me, only one size too small!) BSO for commuting and fun when starting out.  They're not long term bikes.  Stuff on them will break down faster, components are harder to adjust so they work properly, wheels aren't very strong, they're way heavier (and thus more work than they need to be).  But all that said, they can certainly be made ridable.  I worked my way up to doing 60-70 km rides on mine and commuted for about a year before buying a decent bike.  Like I said upthread, your first bike will not be the bike you keep forever because you don't know what you want or need yet, get riding and you'll figure out what's important to you.

My second bike (a nashbar steel frame touring bike) has been with me for more than a decade and tens of thousands of kilometers.  Knew exactly what I wanted when I was shopping for it.

[nereo]

I am looking for a bike under $500 for commuting to work.

What are the best sites for new and used bikes? Also any suggestions on models? Willing to spend $500 max but obviously the less, the better.

Why the $500 limit? Is this just an arbitrary number you decided on or a "I can't pay my mortgage if I spend more" type situation? 

A $500 limit will have you sifting through the dregs of craigslist/facebook marketplace for something that'll probably need a little bit of work anyway.  Whereas if you can spend say, $1500- you can waltz into any bike shop and roll out on something decked out with all the accessories to make commuting safe an enjoyable like lights, fenders, racks, bags, and maybe some good clothing to boot.

I'd even say that at $800 your options open up dramatically.  Many bike shops will have quality commuter bikes from last years' stock for under $800 out the door (if you want to go new, which I wouldn't).  As ChpBstrd said, the rough target for used but in good condition is ~1/2 MSRP, so that opens up some very decent bikes with decent components and features like disk brakes.

But also echo what others have said - fit is paramount.  And avoid the "Bicycle Shaped Objects" [BSOs] sold at Warmart, Dicks, Etc. If you want store bought find whatever your local independent bike shop is, they'll fit you and find you something that will work in your price range, though it will almost certainly be a few hundred more than the deals you can get for used bikes. 

[G-String]

I have a brand new Giant Escape 3.  Amazing value.  I paid around $700 CDN, which I believe is around $400 USD. 

[roomtempmayo]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

[ChpBstrd]

This $500 Polygon is typically spec'd at the $500 price point, with a Shimano Altus transmission and cable-pull brakes.
https://www.bikesonline.com/2024-polygon-path-2-urban-city-bike

This Motobecane is unusually well-spec'd for the $400 price with hydraulic disc brakes and Altus/Alivio drivetrain. The fork probably isn't worth the extra two pounds to haul around but might be beneficial if you ride over lots of chattery cracks and potholes. It's probably what I would buy at your price point. Apply your spare $100 to a $35 helmet, some $10 gloves, and a beefy lock at CambriaBike's clearance aisle, and maybe throw in a back rack after they email you a coupon code.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elitetrail-shimano-hybrid-hydraulic-disc-brake.htm

[JupiterGreen]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

This may be an ignorant question, but why a hybrid and not a road bike? I'm lukewarm interested in this topic too (whether I can do it will depend where I land next with relation to work).

[GuitarStv]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

This may be an ignorant question, but why a hybrid and not a road bike? I'm lukewarm interested in this topic too (whether I can do it will depend where I land next with relation to work).

Since the '80s mountain bike craze, flat bar bikes have been more easily available than drop bar bikes.  Because of this, most of us grew up with this configuration as kids so are more comfortable riding with it.
 Some people (especially people who are out of cycling shape) find that the more upright position of flat bar bikes is easier to ride with (although it makes you much slower and requires more effort to go any distance).  Many modern drop bar bikes don't have braze-ons for a rack and fenders, and it's not uncommon for road bikes to only accommodate very narrow tire widths.

If you're interested at all in drop bar bikes (which you should be - as far as I'm concerned the handlebar is superior in every way to flat bars) check out touring and cyclocross models.  They're more likely to accommodate wider tires and have the attachment points for racks.

[roomtempmayo]

@JupiterGreen , @GuitarStv pretty much nailed my thought process.

A touring bike makes a great commuter for the right person (in decent shape, riding more than a couple miles, probably not mixing it up in traffic), but it's going to be tough to find a true touring bike for < $500.

For someone on a budget just getting started, a good hybrid is a great first commuter.  It's also pretty much fully depreciated at this point, so when they develop more specific desires they'll likely be able to recoup their money.

In addition to the models listed so far, I'll add that Schwinn made a series of bikes with "cross" in the model name that were pretty great in the early to mid '90s: Cross Cut, Criss Cross, Cross Point, Cross Fit, Crossroads, and maybe others.  I bet you could find an awesome one for < $200 with patience.

[BigEasyStache]

@JupiterGreen , @GuitarStv pretty much nailed my thought process.

A touring bike makes a great commuter for the right person (in decent shape, riding more than a couple miles, probably not mixing it up in traffic), but it's going to be tough to find a true touring bike for < $500.

For someone on a budget just getting started, a good hybrid is a great first commuter.  It's also pretty much fully depreciated at this point, so when they develop more specific desires they'll likely be able to recoup their money.

In addition to the models listed so far, I'll add that Schwinn made a series of bikes with "cross" in the model name that were pretty great in the early to mid '90s: Cross Cut, Criss Cross, Cross Point, Cross Fit, Crossroads, and maybe others.  I bet you could find an awesome one for < $200 with patience.

I ride a Schwinn Crisscross from the early 90's.  It's a heavy steel beast hybrid.  My ride to work is 5 miles each way.  1 mile on pot hole asphalt, 4 miles on top a smooth Mississippi river levee.  Great bike for my commute.

Been think a lot lately for an e-bike.  Letric is calling me.

[ChpBstrd]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

This may be an ignorant question, but why a hybrid and not a road bike? I'm lukewarm interested in this topic too (whether I can do it will depend where I land next with relation to work).

Since the '80s mountain bike craze, flat bar bikes have been more easily available than drop bar bikes.  Because of this, most of us grew up with this configuration as kids so are more comfortable riding with it.
 Some people (especially people who are out of cycling shape) find that the more upright position of flat bar bikes is easier to ride with (although it makes you much slower and requires more effort to go any distance).  Many modern drop bar bikes don't have braze-ons for a rack and fenders, and it's not uncommon for road bikes to only accommodate very narrow tire widths.

If you're interested at all in drop bar bikes (which you should be - as far as I'm concerned the handlebar is superior in every way to flat bars) check out touring and cyclocross models.  They're more likely to accommodate wider tires and have the attachment points for racks.

To me it's a question of the conditions you're riding in and your priorities.

Most good-quality drop-bar bikes prioritize speed and performance for people with athletic priorities. There are tradeoffs with owning a bike built for speed/efficiency, and these may include cost, comfort, visibility, fragility, and flexibility. When I commuted my Italian road bike, I was immediately confronted with challenges such as not pinch-flatting the tires on potholes and mandatory curb hops, fear of hitting gravel or broken glass bits on my narrow 100psi tires, and lots of starting and stopping from a hunched down position. And of course it would be silly to strap a five-pound rack onto an expensive 18 pound racing bike so that I could get groceries. It's a bit like driving a Porsche in bumber to bumper traffic. OTOH, I benefited from extreme rolling efficiency on my tiny 23c slick tires and low wind resistance and got to work quickly.

Most good-quality hybrid / commuter bikes try to balance the compromises between speed/efficiency and comfort/utility. With bigger tires you increase rolling resistance but decrease pinch flats or losses of traction in wet or gravel patches. With flat bars you increase wind resistance but increase visibility and comfort (usually - depending on your own body shape). You might ride slower, spend more energy, and also enjoy it more. If you look at what people ride to and from work/shopping in places like Holland as part of a regular pragmatic lifestyle, it's heavy, durable bikes with an upright posture, fenders, racks, bells, etc. They would look at a road bike like we Mustachians look at pretty trucks that are never used for hauling anything.

[nereo]

Agree with your general assessment, ChpBstrd.
On a more attitude/approach, for many the focus of commuting shouldn’t be prioritizing speed above all else as one might do for recreational riding. As the commute distance rarely changes for most, “going for distance” isn’t a focus either.

Looking around, being better able to talk with fellow commuters or kiddos riding alongside you and having the fenders, panniers and flat resistance without making the bike+rider “tippy” when you have frequent sudden stops from school buses, fellow commuters and pedestrians.

Put another way - the best commuter cars aren’t the fastest accelerating sports cars. Same goes for commuter bikes.

[vand]

It's important to consider exactly what type of bike you want.

Road bikes are very popular, however they can be very expensive and, I would argue, are less practical and suitable for most cyclists than a straightforward hybrid with flat handlebars.  Oh, and they also tend to be bike thief magnets... because thieves know an expensive bike when they see one.

Unless you are willing to wear lycra on a regualr basis, you absolutely don't need a road bike and I'd say just get a nice simple 10/12 gear hybrid.

[GuitarStv]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

This may be an ignorant question, but why a hybrid and not a road bike? I'm lukewarm interested in this topic too (whether I can do it will depend where I land next with relation to work).

Since the '80s mountain bike craze, flat bar bikes have been more easily available than drop bar bikes.  Because of this, most of us grew up with this configuration as kids so are more comfortable riding with it.
 Some people (especially people who are out of cycling shape) find that the more upright position of flat bar bikes is easier to ride with (although it makes you much slower and requires more effort to go any distance).  Many modern drop bar bikes don't have braze-ons for a rack and fenders, and it's not uncommon for road bikes to only accommodate very narrow tire widths.

If you're interested at all in drop bar bikes (which you should be - as far as I'm concerned the handlebar is superior in every way to flat bars) check out touring and cyclocross models.  They're more likely to accommodate wider tires and have the attachment points for racks.

To me it's a question of the conditions you're riding in and your priorities.

Most good-quality drop-bar bikes prioritize speed and performance for people with athletic priorities. There are tradeoffs with owning a bike built for speed/efficiency, and these may include cost, comfort, visibility, fragility, and flexibility. When I commuted my Italian road bike, I was immediately confronted with challenges such as not pinch-flatting the tires on potholes and mandatory curb hops, fear of hitting gravel or broken glass bits on my narrow 100psi tires, and lots of starting and stopping from a hunched down position. And of course it would be silly to strap a five-pound rack onto an expensive 18 pound racing bike so that I could get groceries. It's a bit like driving a Porsche in bumber to bumper traffic. OTOH, I benefited from extreme rolling efficiency on my tiny 23c slick tires and low wind resistance and got to work quickly.

Most good-quality hybrid / commuter bikes try to balance the compromises between speed/efficiency and comfort/utility. With bigger tires you increase rolling resistance but decrease pinch flats or losses of traction in wet or gravel patches. With flat bars you increase wind resistance but increase visibility and comfort (usually - depending on your own body shape). You might ride slower, spend more energy, and also enjoy it more. If you look at what people ride to and from work/shopping in places like Holland as part of a regular pragmatic lifestyle, it's heavy, durable bikes with an upright posture, fenders, racks, bells, etc. They would look at a road bike like we Mustachians look at pretty trucks that are never used for hauling anything.

I have strong opinions on this matter from my experiences*.  But they may not be your opinions (or experiences).  That's why I always say to just get any bike and ride it for long enough to figure out what works for you.  The first bike you buy will not be the bike you ride for the rest of your life.  Don't expect it to be.



*The Dutch.  They are a cool people.  They do a lot of stuff that is to be admired from a cycling perspective.  I've always been disappointed riding their bikes though because the bikes suck balls.  And I get why.  The Netherlands is pan flat so you can have a heavy for no reason bike with shitty gearing without any real penalty.  People live closer to their destinations than in North America so you can have a terrible ergonomic position on the bike with no alternate places to put your hands and a bad pedaling posture, and you don't go far enough to care about efficiency getting under the wind.  The climate never gets hot and muggy so the Dutch don't have to worry about all the problems sweat causes when you've got a big honkin' wide saddle pushing into legs pumping up and down .  :P

Don't get me wrong - I wouldn't recommend an Italian racing bike as a commuter either.  And a hybrid bike can totally work OK (although will be inferior on longer rides because of the lack of hand positions).  Look for a touring bike!  Lighter than a Dutch bike.  More upright than a racing bike.  Allows you to sit high up on the tops, slightly stretched out in the hoods, or down low on the drops to get under wind because the bars are functional.  Plenty of attachment points for fenders and racks.  Plenty of room in forks and brakes for wider tires.  Designed to be pretty durable/robust.  If you can't easily look about and talk to people around you on a drop bar bike, your bike is setup incorrectly.  I really think that touring bikes are the answer most people don't realize they need for a decent all-purpose bike.  But hey, that's just like . . . my opinion man.

[nereo]

[
*The Dutch.  They are a cool people.  They do a lot of stuff that is to be admired from a cycling perspective.  I've always been disappointed riding their bikes though because the bikes suck balls.  And I get why.  The Netherlands is pan flat so you can have a heavy for no reason bike with shitty gearing without any real penalty.  People live closer to their destinations than in North America so you can have a terrible ergonomic position on the bike with no alternate places to put your hands and a bad pedaling posture, and you don't go far enough to care about efficiency getting under the wind.  The climate never gets hot and muggy so the Dutch don't have to worry about all the problems sweat causes when you've got a big honkin' wide saddle pushing into legs pumping up and down .  :P

This gets at what I was talking about earlier though. I recently spent several weeks working in Denmark (not my first stay) and I’m blown away by their positive cycling culture. And yes, to a North American cyclist getting on their bikes I was struck by how the most typical bike was abnormally heavy, slow, and could often transport both a kid and a weeks worth of groceries. But then I got to understand their attitudes a bit better. Hopping on a bike wasn’t about going fast, it was about going ftt at on point A to B while looking around and occasionally saying hi to friends who were doing the same thing (going about their daily lives). It’s kind of like walking somewhere / the point isn’t to run as fast as you can. So most people who aren’t avid cyclists but still bike daily aren’t looking for an aerodynamic position and care little that their bike weighs 30 lbs and is hard to pedal over 20 kph (and they don’t try). They think nothing about hoping on a bike while wearing a wool pea coat and nice jeans because exertion and speed aren’t the point.

[ChpBstrd]

Knowing nothing about you other than you want to commute, I'll say a Trek 520, Jamis Coda, or Kona Dew.  They're steel framed hybrid bikes with braze-ons for a rack.  A 15 or 20 year old version will be perfectly functional if it's been maintained, and should be <$500, potentially much less at this time of year.

This may be an ignorant question, but why a hybrid and not a road bike? I'm lukewarm interested in this topic too (whether I can do it will depend where I land next with relation to work).

Since the '80s mountain bike craze, flat bar bikes have been more easily available than drop bar bikes.  Because of this, most of us grew up with this configuration as kids so are more comfortable riding with it.
 Some people (especially people who are out of cycling shape) find that the more upright position of flat bar bikes is easier to ride with (although it makes you much slower and requires more effort to go any distance).  Many modern drop bar bikes don't have braze-ons for a rack and fenders, and it's not uncommon for road bikes to only accommodate very narrow tire widths.

If you're interested at all in drop bar bikes (which you should be - as far as I'm concerned the handlebar is superior in every way to flat bars) check out touring and cyclocross models.  They're more likely to accommodate wider tires and have the attachment points for racks.

To me it's a question of the conditions you're riding in and your priorities.

Most good-quality drop-bar bikes prioritize speed and performance for people with athletic priorities. There are tradeoffs with owning a bike built for speed/efficiency, and these may include cost, comfort, visibility, fragility, and flexibility. When I commuted my Italian road bike, I was immediately confronted with challenges such as not pinch-flatting the tires on potholes and mandatory curb hops, fear of hitting gravel or broken glass bits on my narrow 100psi tires, and lots of starting and stopping from a hunched down position. And of course it would be silly to strap a five-pound rack onto an expensive 18 pound racing bike so that I could get groceries. It's a bit like driving a Porsche in bumber to bumper traffic. OTOH, I benefited from extreme rolling efficiency on my tiny 23c slick tires and low wind resistance and got to work quickly.

Most good-quality hybrid / commuter bikes try to balance the compromises between speed/efficiency and comfort/utility. With bigger tires you increase rolling resistance but decrease pinch flats or losses of traction in wet or gravel patches. With flat bars you increase wind resistance but increase visibility and comfort (usually - depending on your own body shape). You might ride slower, spend more energy, and also enjoy it more. If you look at what people ride to and from work/shopping in places like Holland as part of a regular pragmatic lifestyle, it's heavy, durable bikes with an upright posture, fenders, racks, bells, etc. They would look at a road bike like we Mustachians look at pretty trucks that are never used for hauling anything.

I have strong opinions on this matter from my experiences*.  But they may not be your opinions (or experiences).  That's why I always say to just get any bike and ride it for long enough to figure out what works for you.  The first bike you buy will not be the bike you ride for the rest of your life.  Don't expect it to be.

*The Dutch.  They are a cool people.  They do a lot of stuff that is to be admired from a cycling perspective.  I've always been disappointed riding their bikes though because the bikes suck balls.  And I get why.  The Netherlands is pan flat so you can have a heavy for no reason bike with shitty gearing without any real penalty.  People live closer to their destinations than in North America so you can have a terrible ergonomic position on the bike with no alternate places to put your hands and a bad pedaling posture, and you don't go far enough to care about efficiency getting under the wind.  The climate never gets hot and muggy so the Dutch don't have to worry about all the problems sweat causes when you've got a big honkin' wide saddle pushing into legs pumping up and down .  :P

Don't get me wrong - I wouldn't recommend an Italian racing bike as a commuter either.  And a hybrid bike can totally work OK (although will be inferior on longer rides because of the lack of hand positions).  Look for a touring bike!  Lighter than a Dutch bike.  More upright than a racing bike.  Allows you to sit high up on the tops, slightly stretched out in the hoods, or down low on the drops to get under wind because the bars are functional.  Plenty of attachment points for fenders and racks.  Plenty of room in forks and brakes for wider tires.  Designed to be pretty durable/robust.  If you can't easily look about and talk to people around you on a drop bar bike, your bike is setup incorrectly.  I really think that touring bikes are the answer most people don't realize they need for a decent all-purpose bike.  But hey, that's just like . . . my opinion man.

But you also make a solid observation that the Dutch generally live closer to their destinations than Americans. A bike that is a maintenance-free pleasure for casual 4-5km cruises on flat paved paths suits them well. If they needed to commute through 20-30km of hills like many US/Canada people, perhaps while keeping up with cars and braking on a dime when those idiots make sudden unexpected moves, then they'd make different product choices, just as we do. Speed/efficiency become more important in our dystopia.

@GuitarStv at the risk of derailing OP's question, I'd love to hear your reaction / strong opinion to this episode of NotJustBikes where the rationale for Dutch commuter bikes is explained. They are designed, the producer says, "for transportation, not for sport". However, I suspect the specific environment shapes the design even more than the intended use.

[GuitarStv]

@GuitarStv at the risk of derailing OP's question, I'd love to hear your reaction / strong opinion to this episode of NotJustBikes where the rationale for Dutch commuter bikes is explained. They are designed, the producer says, "for transportation, not for sport". However, I suspect the specific environment shapes the design even more than the intended use.

So I kinda agree with a lot of the points he makes in the video.

The Dutch bike is made for comfort - if you're going short distances on flat ground and have a crippling lower back injury or are so old and enfeebled that you are incapable of bending over.  I'm assuming this crippling back injury is also the reason that he indicates that it's easier to see on a bike like this - because being incapable of turning your neck or at the waist you must 100% rely on upright posture and peripheral vision.  In North America you aren't typically riding short distances on flat ground, and if you have any sort of injury you aren't riding a bike to get around (exceptions made for injuries sustained while cycling in heavy traffic - in which case you can't ever stop cycling or you lose the emotional numbness necessary to navigate our fast roads designed for heavy steel coffins of doom only).

Step through frames . . . eh.  Again, the crippling back injury problem drives this need.  Modern compact frame design in bikes (where the top tube slopes down quite a bit) is found on nearly all bikes sold today and should largely eliminate any issue with slamming your nuts on the top tube, allowing even very short people to comfortably stand over the top tube.  As far as kicking your kids in the head while mounting a bike . . . I honestly think child seats on the bike and behind the parent are much less safe.  I'm saying this as a kid who was in one and once whacked his head pretty good while his dad fell over to the side at an intersection.  This is not an uncommon story with this sort of kids seat.  I'm more a fan of trailers pulled behind the bike.  They're naturally lower and have two wheels stabilizing them.  Especially while carrying my kid and a week of groceries, this is the only safe way to do it without making the frame very heavy and unwieldy that I've figured out.  Might be slightly less safe if you get whacked by a car because the kid is lower, but even up high and having parent + kid going over the hood you're probably in for some bad news there.

Skirt guard and chain guard are cool.  I haven't played around enough with either, but am fascinated by the chain guard in particular and wonder how it would handle the salty slush I've ridden through in the winter (it's murder on components).  It would be cool to not have to tuck my right pant leg into my right sock before a bike ride when wearing loose trousers too I guess.  I'm also 100% in favour of fenders if you regularly ride in wet weather.  They are a godsend on any commuter bike.

Frame locks might have their place I suppose, but he mentions that even in the Netherlands they're not reliable to keep your bike from being stolen.  Bike theft protection always seems to end up being "know your neighbourhood, and buy your lock/chain combo accordingly".

Hub gearing and single speed bikes - Can you scream 'I live in a place without hills' any louder?  I've heard some good stuff about hub gearing especially for really bad conditions and when combined with a belt drive but they tend to be pretty expensive and offer poor gearing range.  They can also make it a nightmare to change a flat (although buying proper puncture proof tires, changing them before they get fully worn, and keeping them properly inflated will largely eliminate the need for changing a flat out on the road).

Coaster brakes are garbage, and anyone recommending them can go to hell.  They're straight up dangerous.  They overheat quickly, and when they fail you have zero stopping ability because they're typically sold on bikes without hand brakes.  The coaster brake only works on the rear wheel - which means the harder you need to stop the worse they work.  They also make it hard to get a bike started, since you can't backpedal the pedal to a high position to step up and start (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/starting.html).  For very slow speeds, no traffic, and flat ground they might be adequate . . . but you could just drag your feet on the ground in that scenario to stop too.  (And they're also dangerous in that you can't backpedal the pedals to the correct position if you're making a sharp turn - increasing the risk that you dig a pedal into the ground and crash.  I'm guessing that the theory is since you never go faster than walking on these bikes that's not a problem?  I have several very long hills on my 22 km commute to work and one has a sharp turn at the bottom.  Wouldn't want to try this on one of these Dutch bikes.)

I've never seen a dynamo setup on a bike that was worth a damn.  Battery powered stuff is cheap, light weight, easy, and massively brighter.  Safety-wise, brighter lights are better full stop.  Except if you forget to charge the batteries and then any light is better.  Depends on the kind of person you are I guess.

That said, the place you ride your bike and how you ride it will determine what works for you.

[Just Joe]

Even a shit bike can do incredible things - I've ridden 70 km on a slightly too small for me second hand crappy wal-mart bike.

Get any cheap bike that you like the look of that doesn't feel too uncomfortable.  Then ride it regularly for a year.  At this point you will have a pretty good idea of what you want.  Otherwise you're just stressing over questions you aren't really in a position to answer yet.

Good logic.

I was thinking go look for a quality used bike rather than buying a new crap bike.

What happened to bicycle prices? Just looked on eBay and a used bike like mine is approaching it's original price!

[spartana]

Even a shit bike can do incredible things - I've ridden 70 km on a slightly too small for me second hand crappy wal-mart bike.

Get any cheap bike that you like the look of that doesn't feel too uncomfortable.  Then ride it regularly for a year.  At this point you will have a pretty good idea of what you want.  Otherwise you're just stressing over questions you aren't really in a position to answer yet.

Good logic.

I was thinking go look for a quality used bike rather than buying a new crap bike.

What happened to bicycle prices? Just looked on eBay and a used bike like mine is approaching it's original price!

Wait until your bikes are old enough to be "vintage". I have a late 1980s Bianchi Super Grizzly mountain bike (amongst other bikes) and I figured I'd have to give it away but nope. Worth almost as much now as when I got it. I ride it all the time and it's great (for a heavy hardtail beast). Personally I agree with @GuitarStv that for people just starting out on a commuter bike a used inexpensive bike is best until you know exactly what you want. Better yet if the OP can "Try it before you buy it" because you don't know what (if anything) will work for you until you do it. Bike commuting might end up being something the OP decides not to.do at all.

[ChpBstrd]

IDK, that $400 Motobecane I pointed out upthread still has me thinking. That's not at all a bad deal for a bike with hydraulic disc brakes, a better-than-worst drivetrain, and even a rudimentary suspension fork. I'm not seeing that level of quality on used bikes in the $250-400 range. And there are benefits to buying a bike with new rubber, fresh brake pads, already straight wheels, and no wear on the drivetrain.

The main downside is that some assembly will be required. If you're not capable of using an allen wrench you might have to pay a bike shop $65-$100 to put on the handlebars, seat, pedals, and wheels.

[Just Joe]

@spartana  Agreed - the difference in riding characteristics between the sloppy, wobbly WalMart bike I had and the new Trek I bought back then was night and day.

I gripe about that WM bike so much b/c it was $180 or so (early 2000s), it literally lasted less than a few hundred miles before it self-destructed and I never even used it on trails. Just bopping around town. The Trek was twice the price but has lasted all this time/miles. Definitely the better long term buy. We've had two other Treks and for our purposes and cost, worth it. I'll never go back to BSO.

[GuitarStv]

At least half the problem with BSOs is that they're put together by knuckle dragging morons.  If you're mechanically inclined and have access to the park tools website you should be able to fix many of the problems that they come with and make the bike a lot more ridable.  Even a BSO shouldn't be wobbly when properly assembled.

[spartana]

@spartana  Agreed - the difference in riding characteristics between the sloppy, wobbly WalMart bike I had and the new Trek I bought back then was night and day.

I gripe about that WM bike so much b/c it was $180 or so (early 2000s), it literally lasted less than a few hundred miles before it self-destructed and I never even used it on trails. Just bopping around town. The Trek was twice the price but has lasted all this time/miles. Definitely the better long term buy. We've had two other Treks and for our purposes and cost, worth it. I'll never go back to BSO.

I got a (new$$$) Trek road bike about 10 or 15 years ago and wow! That bike was so light and whippy and responsive it was a dream to ride (although not a commuter bike but for bike events. had a used Canondale for my regular road riding about town bike). It was always fun to train for an event on the 29 pound beast bianchi (with its weird biopace elliptical chain ring/3 ring crankset) and race on the 18 pound Trek. I do agree with you and @ChpBsrd that a higher quality, but still inexpensive, used commuter bike would be a better starting place for the OP. I never had a BSO before so can't compare quality but in either case I'd keep costs as low as possible for the first commuter bike. Maybe the OP will end up going to an e-bike and would rather put a higher amount towards that.

ETA: I just googled the price for my first road bike (late 1980s Pinarello) and they are still very high priced for an old vintage one - $2000 or so. Of course new ones would be extremely high I imagine.

[ChpBstrd]

At least half the problem with BSOs is that they're put together by knuckle dragging morons.  If you're mechanically inclined and have access to the park tools website you should be able to fix many of the problems that they come with and make the bike a lot more ridable.  Even a BSO shouldn't be wobbly when properly assembled.

Actually I picked up a BSO off the curb recently. It had an aluminum frame and the tires looked OK so I thought "Huh... I could fix this up as a beater bike for around the neighborhood, maybe even just leave it leaning on the side of the house for quick access." It was one of those $250-300 "Hyper" commuter bikes they sell at WalMart, but I felt the aluminum frame and rims would make it better than most, and worth a few hours of cleaning, greasing, and adjusting.

I think of myself as mechanically inclined. I've restored an antique motorcycle and rebuilt the engine, assembled computers from spare parts, put a metal roof on my shop, changed my car's transmission fluid, and remodeled my bathroom for example. So if my BSO could be fixed/optimized by a more mechanically inclined person than a WalMart employee, I would be the one who should be able to do it.

Yet I ran into the following specific limitations in my BSO restoration efforts:

• The rear wheel is a freewheel instead of the stronger freehub design used on higher-quality bikes. That means I can't upgrade to a higher-quality cassette and the axle is a lot more likely to get bent on bumps.
• The wheel bearings, pedal bearings, and bottom bracket have NO rubber sealing to keep out water or dust. Everything except the pedals is easy enough to disassemble and re-grease, but one would have to do so fairly often to keep it running smoothly enough. Not a bike meant to endure the elements or last very long before the bearings grind to a halt!
• The cassette wobbles back and forth like crazy when the wheel spins. This is simply a characteristic of the freewheel design, because it is apparently too difficult at this price point to precisely machine the threads the cassette screws onto. It means it is near-impossible to adjust the rear derailleur in a way that yields crisp, clean shifting and not skipping under pressure. At what point in the wobble do you adjust to?
• The vee brakes were made from stamped sheet steel, and the whole brake assembly would flex when you squeezed the (plastic and similarly flexible) brake levers. These will never inspire confidence, especially since oil leaks out of the bearings onto the contact surface of the rims, lol.
• The stem and fork interface is the old wedge-and-bolt design, meaning I could not replace all that heavy steel with one of my aluminum stems to change the reach or handlebar elevation.

The bike is now rideable and weighs 28lbs, but as Marie Condo would say "this does not bring joy". After hours of adjusting, I do not trust it not to skip when pedaling hard. Plus it has a cheap plastic grip shifter - bleh. Every one of my complaints is about an item that would have added maybe $20 to the cost of the bike to fix, but all together those cost cutting moves add up to over $100. And that's the difference between something that's durable and enjoyable to use, versus a BSO. Add $100 to the WalMart bike's $300 price tag and you get... the $400 Motobecane! So why not just start there?

Of course, it would cost a lot more than $100 to "upgrade" my BSO because you'd have to replace entire already-purchased assemblies instead of just not making every decision the absolute cheapest thing possible. New wheels, bottom bracket, crank, transmission, pedals, cockpit parts, etc. might cost $400 in themselves, and that's relatively low end stuff. So I might sell my BSO commuter bike for the $50 it's worth, to recoup the $20 eBay tire I had to put on it and only some of the hours I invested trying to get it to perform well.

[spartana]

^^^around my neck of the woods just leaving a bike out (even a rusting rotting BSO) would likely mean it's stolen in 5 minutes. When I downsized couple of years ago to move and got rid of nearly everything, including selling the Trek road bike an a newer fancy mountain bike, I decided to keep the Canondale and the Bianchi because I figured they weren't worth much, if anything,  so if they got stolen when I left them out in front of somewhere for a bit  it didn't matter. The chain I locked them with was probably more expensive to replace once cut.. Then I found out they were both worth more then I though so though maybe getting a real inexpensive used BSO for my daily around town riding would be better. I haven't gotten that yet but likelihood of theft is something a bike commuter (or shopper) should probably consider when buying a bike. If the OP can leave the bike safely at work or at home all day then dropping $500 or more on a bike probably doesn't matter but if bike thefts are problem Maybe the used $50 "Wal-Mart Special" would be a better option.

[Just Joe]

At least half the problem with BSOs is that they're put together by knuckle dragging morons.  If you're mechanically inclined and have access to the park tools website you should be able to fix many of the problems that they come with and make the bike a lot more ridable.  Even a BSO shouldn't be wobbly when properly assembled.

The problem with my BSO was that everything flexed. When I bought it, I adjusted everything and it was okay.

Background: riding and repairing bikes since my tween years. Repairing cars, motorcycles, scooters, go-carts. Building car engines, etc.

The flexy nature of the bike was not good. And then the wheels began to warp. And the brakes didn't do a great job - that one almost caused our myself and our then tiny offspring riding in our bicycle trailer to wreck b/c the brakes wouldn't slow us while decending a hill b/c the rim brakes just didn't have enough friction/heat dissipation/cables stretched (?). That's about when I quit riding it.

Really, it seemed like a bike designed for a skinny teenager that weighed about the same as a sack of potatoes rather than an adult male. It was correctly sized for me and had 26" wheels (not a 24" bike). It would have been great for a kid to ride up and down a flat driveway with daring side trips through the yard. ;)

Be careful out there folks. Buy good bikes.

[Just Joe]

^^^around my neck of the woods just leaving a bike out (even a rusting rotting BSO) would likely mean it's stolen in 5 minutes. When I downsized couple of years ago to move and got rid of nearly everything, including selling the Trek road bike an a newer fancy mountain bike, I decided to keep the Canondale and the Bianchi because I figured they weren't worth much, if anything,  so if they got stolen when I left them out in front of somewhere for a bit  it didn't matter. The chain I locked them with was probably more expensive to replace once cut.. Then I found out they were both worth more then I though so though maybe getting a real inexpensive used BSO for my daily around town riding would be better. I haven't gotten that yet but likelihood of theft is something a bike commuter (or shopper) should probably consider when buying a bike. If the OP can leave the bike safely at work or at home all day then dropping $500 or more on a bike probably doesn't matter but if bike thefts are problem Maybe the used $50 "Wal-Mart Special" would be a better option.

Want a cheap bike? Hang out near a university campus. First week of school this year our offspring's friend from HS had their bike stolen, their roommate had their (new) ebike stolen, and the (new) replacement bike also stolen days after it arrived. And then another friend had their bike stolen. The sad thing is that the kids had no locked any of these bikes. Just assumed they would be safe. The ebike owner thought that b/c the ebike was "off" it was could not be ridden which is obviously not true.

I went down there two weeks ago to drop off some things the our offpsring wanted from the house while I was in town on other business, and there was another newish BSO parked at the dorm entrance that was also not locked. ?!?!?!

Our offspring wanted to take one of our ebikes to school but I said no. Sent my 1980s Schwinn road bike, instructed them to keep it locked up during class (and lessons on how), and to keep it in their room. So far, so good. I have $50 plus two tires invested in the Schwinn. It still has alot of miles/years left in it. Very much an analog bike compared to a modern bike with disc brakes and trigger shifters. Offpsring is happy so I'm happy.

For the record I wasn't suggesting stealing or buying a stolen bike. Just lamenting how casual the freshmen my offpsring knows are about bike security. Okay, freshmen - your first adult life lesson is about security and the value of a good bike.

[spartana]

^^^around my neck of the woods just leaving a bike out (even a rusting rotting BSO) would likely mean it's stolen in 5 minutes. When I downsized couple of years ago to move and got rid of nearly everything, including selling the Trek road bike an a newer fancy mountain bike, I decided to keep the Canondale and the Bianchi because I figured they weren't worth much, if anything,  so if they got stolen when I left them out in front of somewhere for a bit  it didn't matter. The chain I locked them with was probably more expensive to replace once cut.. Then I found out they were both worth more then I though so though maybe getting a real inexpensive used BSO for my daily around town riding would be better. I haven't gotten that yet but likelihood of theft is something a bike commuter (or shopper) should probably consider when buying a bike. If the OP can leave the bike safely at work or at home all day then dropping $500 or more on a bike probably doesn't matter but if bike thefts are problem Maybe the used $50 "Wal-Mart Special" would be a better option.

Want a cheap bike? Hang out near a university campus. First week of school this year our offspring's friend from HS had their bike stolen, their roommate had their (new) ebike stolen, and the (new) replacement bike also stolen days after it arrived. And then another friend had their bike stolen. The sad thing is that the kids had no locked any of these bikes. Just assumed they would be safe. The ebike owner thought that b/c the ebike was "off" it was could not be ridden which is obviously not true.

I went down there two weeks ago to drop off some things the our offpsring wanted from the house while I was in town on other business, and there was another newish BSO parked at the dorm entrance that was also not locked. ?!?!?!

Our offspring wanted to take one of our ebikes to school but I said no. Sent my 1980s Schwinn road bike, instructed them to keep it locked up during class (and lessons on how), and to keep it in their room. So far, so good. I have $50 plus two tires invested in the Schwinn. It still has alot of miles/years left in it. Very much an analog bike compared to a modern bike with disc brakes and trigger shifters. Offpsring is happy so I'm happy.

Yeah I heard it's pretty common to get bikes stolen on school campuses so It makes me wonder what people can do to protect an expensive bike or e-bike.

I use to ride that expensive-at-the-time Pinarello bike everywhere (got it at 18 when I joined the CG and took it everywhere I went for many years (decade or more) and rode it everywhere - no car) and I never really worried about it then. Put a cable lock on it and took the saddle and pump off when I left it and that was it. Now I'd never do that with an expensive bike. I even worry about my bike trailer if it's attached to my bike and I want to go in to a store. So what do people do? Losing a $500 bike would be bad but a $5000 bike? A $15,000 bike? Is there bike theft insurance? I think I'd just ride and never leave my bike out of my sight haha.

That's probably reason number 5 I should buy A cheap car - so I can safely keep my expensive bike safe from theft!

[41_swish]

Like others have said, second hand will be the best. There is new bikes for $500 but a lot of them will leave something to be desired.

[Just Joe]

I think university is the perfect application for a BSO. A scruffy one. 

I'm into my DIY Bafang/Lunacycle ebike about $1200 about 4000 miles ago. At work I take it into the building and store it in a locked room near my work area with my employer's approval. I don't leave it anywhere around town much but I have a folding lock or a U-lock for those occasions. I don't like leaving it locked anywhere b/c it still has the lights on it, the ebike display, bell, etc. I often take the battery off if I'm going into a shop. Reduces the visibility of the ebike features. I can also lock the ebike assist with a combination code on the display - which is useless w/o the battery but still.

I came out of the grocery one day only to have an older lady - unlikely a bicyclist but - lecture me about leaving my bike locked in the grocery store bike rack b/c it might get stolen. I thanked her for her concern.

On one occasion years ago I took my bike inside the store with me b/c I was in a rush and some sketchy people were hanging around. I leaned it against the wall inside near the cashiers and made a quick purchase. The grocery store people seemed to know why.

[spartana]

I think university is the perfect application for a BSO. A scruffy one. 

I'm into my DIY Bafang/Lunacycle ebike about $1200 about 4000 miles ago. At work I take it into the building and store it in a locked room near my work area with my employer's approval. I don't leave it anywhere around town much but I have a folding lock or a U-lock for those occasions. I don't like leaving it locked anywhere b/c it still has the lights on it, the ebike display, bell, etc. I often take the battery off if I'm going into a shop. Reduces the visibility of the ebike features. I can also lock the ebike assist with a combination code on the display - which is useless w/o the battery but still.

I came out of the grocery one day only to have an older lady - unlikely a bicyclist but - lecture me about leaving my bike locked in the grocery store bike rack b/c it might get stolen. I thanked her for her concern.

On one occasion years ago I took my bike inside the store with me b/c I was in a rush and some sketchy people were hanging around. I leaned it against the wall inside near the cashiers and made a quick purchase. The grocery store people seemed to know why.

I also try to bring my bike inside if I can - even just for a quick pit stop (and no @GuitarStv I will NOT use a SheWee lol) -  but I generally use the beater Bianchi  now as the daily driver so don't worry as much. But for bike commuters I think it's a good idea to think about ways to secure their bikes and where they'll leave it and how safe it'll be. I still haven't figured out how solo  bike (or motorcycle) tourers do it with all their stuff! I don't know anything about e-bikes but it sounds like your able to secure your pretty good. And yes! Listen to the wise old ladies and lock you bike Sonny!

[Just Joe]

I also try to bring my bike inside if I can - even just for a quick pit stop (and no @GuitarStv I will NOT use a SheWee lol) -  but I generally use the beater Bianchi  now as the daily driver so don't worry as much. But for bike commuters I think it's a good idea to think about ways to secure their bikes and where they'll leave it and how safe it'll be. I still haven't figured out how solo  bike (or motorcycle) tourers do it with all their stuff! I don't know anything about e-bikes but it sounds like your able to secure your pretty good. And yes! Listen to the wise old ladies and lock you bike Sonny!

+1

[JupiterGreen]

Thank you @GuitarStv and @roomtempmayo your comments were really helpful and much appreciated!

[uniwelder]

Here's a pretty typical ad for a used bike in my area--- https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2428102820887158?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A526f2807-5f1e-432b-a743-2e2a43587014  sorry for the long web address.  I tried doing the hyperlink thing, but lost patience trying to figure it out.

It's a hybrid style small frame Trek with 700c tires for $150.  Guy has a whole bunch of bikes for sale, so he obviously does this as a side business.  Assuming you're short enough to ride, the only obvious change I would make would be to replace the seat post and seat.  Are bikes like this not available in y'alls market?  Reading comments in this thread has me confused because I don't know if people here have inflated standards of what's considered a decent bike, if these bikes don't exist in your area, or if people selling them just price them really high.  It's certainly not everyone, but enough to have me questioning. 


edited to add--- or how about his one?  another Trek, looks great, $300  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1895817037577515/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A526f2807-5f1e-432b-a743-2e2a43587014

[spartana]

It's probably been mentioned already but the OP can look at used bikes at bike stores too. They are often "trade ins" and are fixed up at the bike store shop and sold. They aren't as cheap as getting bikes thru Craigslist and the like but they're usually high quality and we'll maintained. Theres Also online sources for used bikes but Im not sure how that works. It would be helpful to know the conditions and distance the OP plans to ride - as well as if this will be a recreational bike or just a commuter. Thinking some kind of hybrid might be best in most cases.

[crocheted_stache]

Both my and DH's latest "spare" bikes have come from a local bike organization that access donated bikes, fixes them up (using volunteer labor but also decently high standards), sells a few of the nicer, most interesting ones to keep the lights on. The rest, they give away to community organizations who give them to people who need bikes.

If you live in a metro area, definitely check if you have any such organization. It's a good way to get something that's not a BSO/department store cheapie and something that at least basically fits you if you (like me and DH) are something other than medium sized. It's also a great way to meet and build community instead of just going shopping.

My BSO story: I was volunteering with a "learn to fix your own bicycle" event and someone came in with a Walmart bike. I helped him tighten a pedal that was chronically loose, and no amount of Loctite (thread adhesive) was improving matters. Most bikes have a left-hand thread on the left pedal, because it means that when they rock in the thread as the pedal rotates, they tighten rather than loosen. This bizarre design choice made the bike unsafe and it made it impossible to change the pedals without also changing the cranks.

If I recall, Consumer Reports did a review of bike brands years ago and found the brakes deficient on basically all the department store brands. If the US ever collectively comes around to seeing bikes as transportation rather than toys, I'd hope the CPSC or NHTSA or someone will take an interest in the safety consequences of the corners being cut.

If you need an inexpensive beater bike to leave at the train station, better to get an okay used one at a police auction or local bike co-op and, if needed, decorate it with "oops"-colored house paint and/or every free sticker you can get your hands on. A good lock, properly used, will at least slow down the casual or opportunistic thief. Take lights, helmet and other accessories with you.

[Askel]

Haven't heard from the OP since the initial post... 

...curious how this played out for them. 


"Yeah, I was thinking about riding a bike to work- but turns out all the people that do have some weird obsession with fenders and something they call 'BSOs'? "

:D 

[uniwelder]

Haven't heard from the OP since the initial post... 

...curious how this played out for them. 


"Yeah, I was thinking about riding a bike to work- but turns out all the people that do have some weird obsession with fenders and something they call 'BSOs'? "

:D

Looking at OP’s posting history, there is typically no follow up or discussion. It’s a shame when people ask a question but don’t provide feedback.

[nereo]

Looking at OP’s posting history, there is typically no follow up or discussion. It’s a shame when people ask a question but don’t provide feedback.

There ought to be a word for that. Or maybe there is and I just dont know it…

[ChpBstrd]

Looking at OP’s posting history, there is typically no follow up or discussion. It’s a shame when people ask a question but don’t provide feedback.

There ought to be a word for that. Or maybe there is and I just dont know it…

Forum ghosts?