I want to either buy or build a rack to hold my bike in the garage and learn how to do repairs and adjustments. Rather than paying $80 a year for a tune up, I just want to be able to to it myself. Will probably pursue this goal next spring as the snow will be flying shortly.
Yes thats true but I don't use my bike everyday. 8 miles away from work so I want to bike at least once a week when the weather is warm enough. I do have a backup bike (just a cheap Walmart bike) that I won from a raffle at work so I use that on small errands around town.I want to either buy or build a rack to hold my bike in the garage and learn how to do repairs and adjustments. Rather than paying $80 a year for a tune up, I just want to be able to to it myself. Will probably pursue this goal next spring as the snow will be flying shortly.
The only down side to doing things yourself is that it takes time. You'll have to diagnose the problem, figure out what part needs to be replaced, order the part, and then figure out how to install it. It's totally doable, but means that occasionally you'll end up with your bike out of commission for several days. This is part of the reason I have two bikes (you can use the other one while one is undergoing repairs).
At about 26 miles to my current work, I can't pull it off...
But on Monday I have a second interview for a job that's less than 5 miles. Really hoping I get that; pay would be comparable to what I've got now, and it'd save me time on the commute, not to mention the impact to my health and less wear and tear on my car, etc.
It'd be bikeable for sure, but part of my journey either takes me on a 55mph road where drivers are notoriously awful, or on an unpaved road which may pose some challenges during the winter depending on what the snow-clearing situation is (having never been on it in the winter, I'm not sure).
There's an additional challenge that I literally don't own a bike right now (facepunch incoming) and have no idea what to look for :)
Never get in altercations with vehicle drivers. No matter what, they will win. Avoid certain hand gestures, no matter how jerky they are. We have to try to advocate and not instigate things further.
When I have an alternation, I wave and smile. It catches them off guard. A little bit of sugar goes a long way.At about 26 miles to my current work, I can't pull it off...
But on Monday I have a second interview for a job that's less than 5 miles. Really hoping I get that; pay would be comparable to what I've got now, and it'd save me time on the commute, not to mention the impact to my health and less wear and tear on my car, etc.
It'd be bikeable for sure, but part of my journey either takes me on a 55mph road where drivers are notoriously awful, or on an unpaved road which may pose some challenges during the winter depending on what the snow-clearing situation is (having never been on it in the winter, I'm not sure).
There's an additional challenge that I literally don't own a bike right now (facepunch incoming) and have no idea what to look for :)
You might like an urban commuter or fitness bike. Something with 700c wheels for efficiency. Something with braze-ons for mounting a rack. Avoid Dept store bikes at all costs. They cost you more in the long run, because they are garbage disposable type bikes. If you want to save some cash, shop Craig's list or the local paper for a good used machine.
At about 26 miles to my current work, I can't pull it off...
But on Monday I have a second interview for a job that's less than 5 miles. Really hoping I get that; pay would be comparable to what I've got now, and it'd save me time on the commute, not to mention the impact to my health and less wear and tear on my car, etc.
It'd be bikeable for sure, but part of my journey either takes me on a 55mph road where drivers are notoriously awful, or on an unpaved road which may pose some challenges during the winter depending on what the snow-clearing situation is (having never been on it in the winter, I'm not sure).
There's an additional challenge that I literally don't own a bike right now (facepunch incoming) and have no idea what to look for :)
Never get in altercations with vehicle drivers. No matter what, they will win. Avoid certain hand gestures, no matter how jerky they are. We have to try to advocate and not instigate things further.
When I have an alternation, I wave and smile. It catches them off guard. A little bit of sugar goes a long way.At about 26 miles to my current work, I can't pull it off...
But on Monday I have a second interview for a job that's less than 5 miles. Really hoping I get that; pay would be comparable to what I've got now, and it'd save me time on the commute, not to mention the impact to my health and less wear and tear on my car, etc.
It'd be bikeable for sure, but part of my journey either takes me on a 55mph road where drivers are notoriously awful, or on an unpaved road which may pose some challenges during the winter depending on what the snow-clearing situation is (having never been on it in the winter, I'm not sure).
There's an additional challenge that I literally don't own a bike right now (facepunch incoming) and have no idea what to look for :)
You might like an urban commuter or fitness bike. Something with 700c wheels for efficiency. Something with braze-ons for mounting a rack. Avoid Dept store bikes at all costs. They cost you more in the long run, because they are garbage disposable type bikes. If you want to save some cash, shop Craig's list or the local paper for a good used machine.
Thanks for the initial guidance. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I finally get around to buying one but this is a great start, I appreciate the help.
At about 26 miles to my current work, I can't pull it off...
But on Monday I have a second interview for a job that's less than 5 miles. Really hoping I get that; pay would be comparable to what I've got now, and it'd save me time on the commute, not to mention the impact to my health and less wear and tear on my car, etc.
It'd be bikeable for sure, but part of my journey either takes me on a 55mph road where drivers are notoriously awful, or on an unpaved road which may pose some challenges during the winter depending on what the snow-clearing situation is (having never been on it in the winter, I'm not sure).
There's an additional challenge that I literally don't own a bike right now (facepunch incoming) and have no idea what to look for :)
Build up your strength with lots of local trips first. Then get a bike rack.
Drive to work one day, bike back.
Bike to work the next day, drive back.
26 miles is doable and can be quite a nice ride a couple times a week. 52 miles is getting more into bike enthusiast territory and is not for everyone.
Have a bike that can carry a rack. Getting stuff off your back is nice. Panniers are worth it.
Hey, come join us over on the monthly cycling log! https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/throw-down-the-gauntlet/november-cycling-challenge-2017/
Newbies are always welcome :-)
I would dare say that ANYONE can ride 26 mi, its just a matter of how long it will take. Leave early!
Another thing that's a huge help is bike shorts. If you aren't comfortable wearing them at least get underwear with a chamois and wear regular shorts over them. I road my bike thousands of miles but would still be uncomfortable if I rode more than 10 mi without them.
Have a bike that can carry a rack. Getting stuff off your back is nice. Panniers are worth it.
Is that something you can add to any bike or do you need a special frame for it?Hey, come join us over on the monthly cycling log! https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/throw-down-the-gauntlet/november-cycling-challenge-2017/
Newbies are always welcome :-)
That looks awesome, thanks!
Have a bike that can carry a rack. Getting stuff off your back is nice. Panniers are worth it.
Is that something you can add to any bike or do you need a special frame for it?Hey, come join us over on the monthly cycling log! https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/throw-down-the-gauntlet/november-cycling-challenge-2017/
Newbies are always welcome :-)
That looks awesome, thanks!
Braze-ons are attachment points where you can easily attach a rack and other things to the bike. Some bikes don't have them, so it can makes mounting a rack a little more difficult. Example: carbon bikes don't really have them. You'd have to do a seat post mount or similar and it isn't ideal. The seat post mounted panniers have a small weight limit, so groceries become an issue if you wanted to carry heavy loads. Googe braze-ons and a plethora of pics will come up. Bikes that are great commuters are like, the giant Seek, the specialized AWOL, Surly long haul trucker and bikes like that. A touring bike would be a great commuter bike as well, as a fitness bike or an urban commuter style bike. There are tons of bikes out there that would be great. Even an older mountain bike would work, as long as you steer clear of Dept. store stuff. You'll be miserable and hate a bike like a Mongoose or anything that Walmart sells. They are tanks, and they ride horribly. Not to mention the issues that Dept. store bikes have with build. I have seen bikes from Walmart come in to our shop and they have their forks installed backwards. Stuff like that is crazy and can be dangerous. Imagine going down the road and your crankset falls off. WTF!?
I doubt one would want a carbon bike for commuting anyway. So maybe my point is moot anyway.
I know I could just google for some of these answers, but I figured it could be useful information for others here all in one place instead of looking up every individual question.
What should I do when riding in rain/snow? Do I need to dry the bike ASAP and clean later? Clean and relube the chain each time it gets wet? I'm assuming it also depends on whether the roads get salted or not (mine typically don't where I live).
How often should I clean the chain with regular riding in dry weather? Should I do it based on miles or time? Is it possible to do this indoors? I'm thinking having a bucket underneath for catching dirty water maybe?
I know I could just google for some of these answers, but I figured it could be useful information for others here all in one place instead of looking up every individual question.
What should I do when riding in rain/snow? Do I need to dry the bike ASAP and clean later? Clean and relube the chain each time it gets wet? I'm assuming it also depends on whether the roads get salted or not (mine typically don't where I live).
How often should I clean the chain with regular riding in dry weather? Should I do it based on miles or time? Is it possible to do this indoors? I'm thinking having a bucket underneath for catching dirty water maybe?
Just had my best-ever ride to work! Everything went smoothly, from having all of my stuff prepped by the back door, to riding through an intersection that I've walked every other time, to not having any panicky moments when cars were passing. It only took me 15 minutes, which is also a record. Third time's the charm, I guess :)
The test will be getting home. There's a good chance that I'll bail and walk most of it, but I'm going to stay patient with myself and stick to what I feel safe doing.
Dumb question: do I suck at biking, or is it actually harder to get up hills on a bike than it is on foot? I have to go up what I would classify as a "slight incline" both ways. I barely even notice it when I'm running the same route, but on the bike my quads are umm, fully engaged and I'm a little out of breath by the time I'm done. I'm in good cardio shape (e.g., I'll be doing a sub-1:45 half marathon on Saturday unless something really screwy happens) so it's weird to me that this slight incline hurts?
Haha, the reason I ask is that I already have a bike and I want to know if I'm doomed to backpacking it forever.
First ride to work: complete.
I think I am more out of shape than I thought. It was only 5.8 miles or so. Steady pace the entire time. 51F outside, a t-shirt, long-sleeve button down (thin cotton), a hoodie, and a backpack on my back. By the time I got to my office (climbed 5 flights of stairs with the bike), I was sweating pretty hard. I can't imagine doing this when it's 80-100F, jeez.. I guess I have time to get used to it though...
Did I layer too much? My hands were the only part that was cold at first, but after 2 miles or so I was really warm.
First ride to work: complete.
I think I am more out of shape than I thought. It was only 5.8 miles or so. Steady pace the entire time. 51F outside, a t-shirt, long-sleeve button down (thin cotton), a hoodie, and a backpack on my back. By the time I got to my office (climbed 5 flights of stairs with the bike), I was sweating pretty hard. I can't imagine doing this when it's 80-100F, jeez.. I guess I have time to get used to it though...
Did I layer too much? My hands were the only part that was cold at first, but after 2 miles or so I was really warm.
I don't replace the cassette after every two chains.
First ride to work: complete.
I think I am more out of shape than I thought. It was only 5.8 miles or so. Steady pace the entire time. 51F outside, a t-shirt, long-sleeve button down (thin cotton), a hoodie, and a backpack on my back. By the time I got to my office (climbed 5 flights of stairs with the bike), I was sweating pretty hard. I can't imagine doing this when it's 80-100F, jeez.. I guess I have time to get used to it though...
Did I layer too much? My hands were the only part that was cold at first, but after 2 miles or so I was really warm.
You probably layered too much, though maybe you need gloves? As well as a lock to leave the bike at the bottom of those stairs!
Adjusting the seat height like GuitarStv said made a big difference to me. If it's the first time the bike has been ridden in a while did you also check the tire pressure? The tires should have the ideal pressure printed on them, but if you don't have a pressure gauge they at least shouldn't feel squishy under your fingers. Mine at 80psi have very little give to them.First ride to work: complete.
I think I am more out of shape than I thought. It was only 5.8 miles or so. Steady pace the entire time. 51F outside, a t-shirt, long-sleeve button down (thin cotton), a hoodie, and a backpack on my back. By the time I got to my office (climbed 5 flights of stairs with the bike), I was sweating pretty hard. I can't imagine doing this when it's 80-100F, jeez.. I guess I have time to get used to it though...
Did I layer too much? My hands were the only part that was cold at first, but after 2 miles or so I was really warm.
51 F is 10 degrees C right? I think you were dressed much too warm. You want to be a bit chilly when you get on the bike so that you're the right temperature ten minutes into your ride.
That's right around the borderline for me to start covering my legs, so if it's windy out I'd wear some light jogging tights over my bike shorts, if it's sunny and not too windy I'd go without. On top I'd probably wear a very light weight sweater and either a windproof vest or a windbreaker. At those temperatures I always wear gloves and something to cover my ears too.
Backpacks tend to be sweat factories. I actually ride with one in the winter to keep warmer. The backpack sits and blocks the release of heat from your core, which will really heat you up.
Correct, it's 10C. Thanks for the advice, lesson learned, haha. It'll only be cold for 2 months or so here, so my main concern is building up even more sweat once summer comes. I'll check the tires too, thanks for that! I was wearing some ear plug that I use when I go shooting to keep the cold weather out of the insides of my ears. It makes them ache personally. That, a hat, and some sun glasses. Like y'all said, gloves would be ideal I think too.You'll definitely build up some body heat over six miles. You should expect to be very cold at the start of the ride if you want to be comfortable by the end. If you can give yourself a bit of cool down time before putting on work clothes, that can help so you don't just immediately sweat into them
I used the advice from this article: http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2017/06/08/bike-to-work-houston/
I figured it was appropriate since I am also from Houston. Anyways, I waited 5-6 minutes and I felt totally fine. Put my work shirt on, opened the office door, and all was back to normal. :)
My wife and I mountain bike pretty regularly, but I'm terrified to ride on the roads around here. We live in the mountains of East Tennessee. The locals here have their vices... some smoke meth, others "roll coal" in big lifted trucks, either way these curvy roads are most of the time treated like a race car track... I get nervous even in a car. I used to ride a DRZ400, but after having children I sold that for fear of them being without a father. I have read the blog post about fear, and have looked at the studies, but I still have fear. Am I being silly?
My wife and I mountain bike pretty regularly, but I'm terrified to ride on the roads around here. We live in the mountains of East Tennessee. The locals here have their vices... some smoke meth, others "roll coal" in big lifted trucks, either way these curvy roads are most of the time treated like a race car track... I get nervous even in a car. I used to ride a DRZ400, but after having children I sold that for fear of them being without a father. I have read the blog post about fear, and have looked at the studies, but I still have fear. Am I being silly?
Thinking that everybody on the road is some methed out redneck ready to roll coal on you might be a bit silly. However, having a healthy respect for roads with low visibility and fast moving traffic is not.
I typically avoid such roads, because riding in fast moving traffic is just no fun, but sometimes you have to do it to get where you are going. I deal with this by:
1. Staying seen. Lights, day-glo reflective vests, festive hawaiian shirts, whatever it takes.
2. Ride respectfully. Try not to unnecessarily impede traffic. Pull over for a bit if you do. Use hand signals.
3. Stay aware. Look around, try and anticipate what people will do. Looking drivers in the eye really helps.
Sure, there's the occasional nitwit that does something or yells something* out the window, but be happy- that means they saw you. It's the ones that don't see you that will get you.
*Best thing ever yelled out a car window at me: "GET A JOB, ASSHOLE!"
HAHA! Get a job, asshole. I love that one.
One person yelled at me "Hippie!"
:)
- Most people new to cycling pedal far too slowly. When you pedal slowly and push hard, you end up causing muscle fatigue and don't use your aerobic system as much. You want high RPMs (80 - 100 at least) when climbing to be efficient. This will put more load on your heart and less on your legs (although they'll still burn occasionally). Next time you're climbing, try going to an easier gear than you normally would and simply pedaling faster.
HAHA! Get a job, asshole. I love that one.
One person yelled at me "Hippie!"
:)
LOL! Pretty sure there are some people that think I ride my bike to work because I can't "afford" the gas.
Today a co-worker asked me, "Hey, why is your office door closed?"
Me: "Oh, I just rode my bicycle in so I was changing my shirt. Did you need to stop by?"
Co-worker: "MAN Y??????"
Me: "haha, I live pretty close.."
Co-worker: "LOL LOL"
That's awesome.
Today a co-worker asked me, "Hey, why is your office door closed?"
Me: "Oh, I just rode my bicycle in so I was changing my shirt. Did you need to stop by?"
Co-worker: "MAN Y??????"
Me: "haha, I live pretty close.."
Co-worker: "LOL LOL"
That's awesome.
Today a co-worker asked me, "Hey, why is your office door closed?"
Me: "Oh, I just rode my bicycle in so I was changing my shirt. Did you need to stop by?"
Co-worker: "MAN Y??????"
Me: "haha, I live pretty close.."
Co-worker: "LOL LOL"
I always reply with
'Because it's faster than walking'
:D
I wanted to mention something about chains, that will help you extend the life of your chain.
Some of you may already know this tip, so if you do just ignore me. Please prevent yourself from cross chaining. It stretches your chain and it is harder on your chainrings and cassette. A cross chain is being in the biggest gear in the back and the biggest in the front, or the smallest in the back and the smallest in the front. There are much better options than a cross chain, with triples and doubles. If you are a 1x system, this of course does not apply to you. If you have a double, it is not as bad as a triple, but still there are other options in your gears. Many gears overlap themselves in feel factor.
Hope this made sense to the newcomers of our sport.
I wanted to mention something about chains, that will help you extend the life of your chain.
Some of you may already know this tip, so if you do just ignore me. Please prevent yourself from cross chaining. It stretches your chain and it is harder on your chainrings and cassette. A cross chain is being in the biggest gear in the back and the biggest in the front, or the smallest in the back and the smallest in the front. There are much better options than a cross chain, with triples and doubles. If you are a 1x system, this of course does not apply to you. If you have a double, it is not as bad as a triple, but still there are other options in your gears. Many gears overlap themselves in feel factor.
Hope this made sense to the newcomers of our sport.
To clarify a tad:
(http://circuitcycle.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/CROSS-CHAINING.jpg)
Basically, you want the chain to be as straight as possible between the big rings at the front and the little rings at the back, not at an angle as above. Usually you'll hear this as extra noise from the drivetrain when you do it.
Side note - If you're on a 1x system, it does apply to you . . . but there's nothing you can do about it. A 1x system is the same as always riding the middle chain ring of a triple. :P
I live in the middle of rural Indiana and have been contemplating cycling to work. It is about 6 miles so it wouldn't be too bad but it is all county roads until I hit town. The roads are narrow and people absolutely fly down them.
Has anyone had to deal with these kinds of conditions and how do you cope?
- Most people new to cycling pedal far too slowly. When you pedal slowly and push hard, you end up causing muscle fatigue and don't use your aerobic system as much. You want high RPMs (80 - 100 at least) when climbing to be efficient. This will put more load on your heart and less on your legs (although they'll still burn occasionally). Next time you're climbing, try going to an easier gear than you normally would and simply pedaling faster.
My quads say thank you! I didn't end up changing my seat height--maybe I'm doing it wrong, but it just didn't feel comfortable set higher and it's not like I'm out there trying to race anybody--but this morning I went down to a gear that felt silly and focused on turnover. Cruised up the barely-hill and wasn't even out of breath.
How are all of my other fellow newbies doing this week? Did anybody get a great ride in over the weekend?
Please prevent yourself from cross chaining. It stretches your chain and it is harder on your chainrings and cassette. A cross chain is being in the biggest gear in the back and the biggest in the front, or the smallest in the back and the smallest in the front.
I am very thankful that the eagle XX1 chains seem to have very good longevity. ;)
I am very thankful that the eagle XX1 chains seem to have very good longevity. ;)
Even if you don't think your chain is going to wear out, it's still less efficient.
You might want to try gradually raising your seat a bit, if you think it should be higher but it's a question of comfort. I need to raise my seat a third time because I keep underestimating (a) how high it should be and (b) how much it helps.Please prevent yourself from cross chaining. It stretches your chain and it is harder on your chainrings and cassette. A cross chain is being in the biggest gear in the back and the biggest in the front, or the smallest in the back and the smallest in the front.
...whoops. At least I need a new chain anyway. Is it better to try to stick to mostly the middle gears?
You might want to try gradually raising your seat a bit, if you think it should be higher but it's a question of comfort. I need to raise my seat a third time because I keep underestimating (a) how high it should be and (b) how much it helps.Please prevent yourself from cross chaining. It stretches your chain and it is harder on your chainrings and cassette. A cross chain is being in the biggest gear in the back and the biggest in the front, or the smallest in the back and the smallest in the front.
...whoops. At least I need a new chain anyway. Is it better to try to stick to mostly the middle gears?
Your bike won't explode if you cross chain. It just wears stuff out a bit faster, tends to cause rubbing and annoying noise, and is generally less efficient.
All you really have to remember is that if you're in your easiest (biggest) couple gears at the back, then go into your easiest (smallest) ring at the front. If you're in your hardest (smallest) couple gears at the back, then go into your biggest ring at the front.
Hey experts, can you help me think through a moment on my commute home? I'm never sure what to do with myself.
I have to go down a one-lane road with a bike lane. As it approaches Big Cross Street, it expands into three lanes and the bike lane disappears: so you've got a right turn lane, straight ahead lane, and a combo left turn/straight ahead lane. After the intersection, there are two travel lanes on my side of the street, and no bike lane. I need to proceed across Big Cross Street and then make a left turn a block later.
Currently, I'm riding in the bike lane until it phases out into the right turn lane, then hopping onto the sidewalk via a handy cut in the curb for the 20 remaining feet until the intersection. I wait at the corner until it's safe, then proceed across the intersection in the cross walk. I know riding on the sidewalk is bad, but I get rattled taking the straight-ahead travel lane because there's usually a long line of cars, and I can't stay right next to the curb because then I'm interfering with people trying to make a right turn. Where do I go?
Once I'm across the intersection, I wait until the line of cars has passed, then get back out into the right travel lane until I need to make the left turn a block later. Sometimes this means I have to come to a complete stop, though, since I'm working with four lanes of traffic, and there's no bike lane so I'm just standing in the road. This makes me nervous since sometimes I have to wait a while, and there's no easy way to get my bike up and down from the sidewalk there without dismounting. There's plenty of room for cars to pass but standing in a traffic lane just doesn't seem like a smart move.
What do I do with myself? In theory I could make the left turn at the original Big Cross Street via the left turn lane, but that spits me onto a busy road with a line of parked commuter cars that are also trying to get out (so lots of opening doors, people trying to bolt out of parallel spots before the next wave of traffic hits, etc.). I would also have to deal with a second busy intersection, while going up to the intersection that I'm using now means I'm on my own very quiet residential street the whole rest of the way home.
Help! Everything else is going smoothly at this point (knock on wood).
Thanks all. I'm a really slow biker so I worry about people getting road rage when I have to take the whole lane, but I know I need to work on getting over it. Fortunately there's quite a bit of bike traffic on this route, so most people are used to driving with cyclists.
GuitarStv, I'm going to try what you outline tomorrow.
Thanks all. I'm a really slow biker so I worry about people getting road rage when I have to take the whole lane, but I know I need to work on getting over it. Fortunately there's quite a bit of bike traffic on this route, so most people are used to driving with cyclists.
GuitarStv, I'm going to try what you outline tomorrow.
Thanks all. I'm a really slow biker so I worry about people getting road rage when I have to take the whole lane, but I know I need to work on getting over it. Fortunately there's quite a bit of bike traffic on this route, so most people are used to driving with cyclists.
Great to see a thread on this. I’ve commuted by bike for several years now. I’m based in the UK. It’s only just over 7 miles for me a day so nothing massively impressive.
I’m not sure if anyone can help me (maybe Canadian cyclists) but the biggest issue I have this time of year, when there is a frost is my hands. I wear three pairs of gloves but they are still frozen and hurt like crazy when I arrive at work! Anyone got any tips here please? All my other extremities are fine but my hands are in agony.
I’m not sure if anyone can help me (maybe Canadian cyclists) but the biggest issue I have this time of year, when there is a frost is my hands. I wear three pairs of gloves but they are still frozen and hurt like crazy when I arrive at work! Anyone got any tips here please? All my other extremities are fine but my hands are in agony.
Hi, thank you so much for all the replies, much appreciated. I have experimented with various glove styles and combinations over the years. Nothing seems to have worked. Often reviews are left by people saying their hands are toasty warm wearing them but they haven’t worked for me.
My current combination is a silk glove (apparently skiers wear these?) followed by a neoprene layer followed by a thicker waterproof type glove. I just about have enough feel to change gears and brake here! I am travelling about 6:30am when I have the trouble. During the day and early evening I don’t have the problem. The rest of my body is warm and my feet, ears etc don’t have an issue.
Thanks very much for the links. I’ll take a look at some other products. I haven’t seen bar mitts before. I have a downhill a few minutes in and it’s definitely the airflow here that gets my hands off to a very cold start.
I wear 4 layers when it’s very cold so I don’t think my core is cold. Everything is fine except the hands. I do appreciate everyone’s comments on what they do. Some of the temperatures quoted are far below those that I have to put up with.
I have a fairly icy remote country lane that is never treated on the commute. It can be a bit treacherous. I’m wondering if on the very cold days I would be better off walking. My hands have always been fine walking. That way I avoid the treacherous lane and the cold hands. That may be the best way to proceed over the next couple of months or so.
My wife and I mountain bike pretty regularly, but I'm terrified to ride on the roads around here. We live in the mountains of East Tennessee. The locals here have their vices... some smoke meth, others "roll coal" in big lifted trucks, either way these curvy roads are most of the time treated like a race car track... I get nervous even in a car. I used to ride a DRZ400, but after having children I sold that for fear of them being without a father. I have read the blog post about fear, and have looked at the studies, but I still have fear. Am I being silly?
Thinking that everybody on the road is some methed out redneck ready to roll coal on you might be a bit silly. However, having a healthy respect for roads with low visibility and fast moving traffic is not.
I typically avoid such roads, because riding in fast moving traffic is just no fun, but sometimes you have to do it to get where you are going. I deal with this by:
1. Staying seen. Lights, day-glo reflective vests, festive hawaiian shirts, whatever it takes.
2. Ride respectfully. Try not to unnecessarily impede traffic. Pull over for a bit if you do. Use hand signals.
3. Stay aware. Look around, try and anticipate what people will do. Looking drivers in the eye really helps.
Sure, there's the occasional nitwit that does something or yells something* out the window, but be happy- that means they saw you. It's the ones that don't see you that will get you.
*Best thing ever yelled out a car window at me: "GET A JOB, ASSHOLE!"
Thanks for the input, and the laugh at the end. haha Get a Job!
We have a few winter cyclists with Raynaud's syndrome - it contributes to poor circulation in the hands and therefore they struggle with cold hands. From what I've read, they survive using either the chemical hot packs (apparently you can put these in the fridge - to slow the reaction - after your morning ride and they will still work on the ride home) or even battery heated mitts/gloves.
Posting because I did my first work ride yesterday!
On Sunday the transmission blew in my old Honda... so for the day job I am using a company car and reimbursing for personal miles. Well, on the two days a week that I don't go to the office, I have a dog walking business and serve a 5-mile and under radius. Welp, I didn't want to reimburse the company, so I hopped on the bike I inherited from my grandfather when he passed away last year (he was an avid cyclist).
I served two clients and overall it was MAYBE a 3.5 mile round trip. I did have to walk up the steepest hill in town at about halfway... I was in the lowest gear and standing, but baaaarely moving and tipping over. I also got really sweaty and realized just how hard cycling is. It was about 42 degrees here, but felt ok.
I neither feel encouraged or discouraged about cycling more- pretty neutral... But I think I'll likely try it for the two times a week that I serve pet clients. I need to get a light, helmet, and lock (I had to bring my bike inside people's houses... not everyone will be cool with that).
Anyways... YAY! I did it. I was moving like molasses and heaving and panting (I don't even consider myself out-of-shape... so... hmmmm), but I DID IT!
This is a thread for those of us getting started on biking more often to catalogue our progress and challenge each other, as well as for those of you more experienced with bikes to give us tips if you like!
Why to start biking:
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/04/18/get-rich-with-bikes/ (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/04/18/get-rich-with-bikes/)
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2013/06/13/bicycling-the-safest-form-of-transportation/ (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2013/06/13/bicycling-the-safest-form-of-transportation/)
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/06/07/safety-is-an-expensive-illusion/ (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/06/07/safety-is-an-expensive-illusion/)
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/10/06/the-true-cost-of-commuting/ (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/10/06/the-true-cost-of-commuting/)
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2013/04/22/curing-your-clown-like-car-habit/ (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2013/04/22/curing-your-clown-like-car-habit/)
Consider the gauntlet thrown.
I bought a Trek FX 7.0 2016 in August for $200 off Craigslist. Since then I have made it my goal to go biking 3 times a week - a goal I am mostly failing at, but improving in pursuit of - and to visit the grocery store exclusively by bike. Last weekend I did a practice trip to work for the first time (10 miles round trip including three major hills). I was successful, but I don't quite feel ready to brave the same trip during rush hour, work a full day in the middle, and head home in the dark.
Incidentally, I've also started swimming recently, which is hopefully also contributing to an improved endurance. Getting my tires properly inflated and my seat adjusted to the proper height were also like a magical automatic endurance boosts. And I've started waking up and heading to work earlier in hopes of being able to do both-directions commuting in daylight, despite the time change.
So, my current goals:What are you working on?
- All grocery trips by bike
- One longer bike ride (over 5 mi) each weekend
- Start biking to work once a week
- Replace my rusty bike chain
Running a slightly too long chain doesn't really hurt anything. It will just be a tad noisier and a few grams heavier. Make sure you don't shorten it too much though - you can wreck your rear derailleur.
I just bought my bike this weekend! I'm looking forward to getting to the point where I can do my 6.5 mile with slight incline trip to work nearly every day. I haven't been on a bike in years.
I come from a family of cyclists, I used to do track racing at the velodrome that was right by my house. my dad and brother were always more into it. I got hit by a car while I was on my bike while on my way to school when I was 16, so I wasn't too happy. I've always been happy to walk or take the bus for bikeable distances. Unfortunately I don't have a bus that runs by my work, and I'm unhappy driving that short of a distance, so I'm trying it out.
It's interesting that there's an interurban trail right by my place that gets me part of the way to work much safer than if I tried to go along the busy road, which would be much too dangerous even if I was more experienced. I'm still finalizing my route and now I just need to practice it a few times before I go for the actual commute to make sure I'm not late or too out of shape to do it.
I also need to buy a bell, a repair kit, lights, and a lock. I have a reflective vest for now. I have a Cookie Monster jersey.
I'm looking forward to seeing if I can refill my car tank once every other month instead of the once a month I'm at right now.
@hadabeardonce unless you plan to use the MTB for off road riding a lot, why not just get the slicks? New tires are a lot cheaper than a whole new bike and you’ll get an awful lot of the benefit of a road oriented bike by reducing rolling resistance. Gearing, at least on the MTB I owned, isn’t too much different from a road bike at non race-level output and speeds.@HarbingerofBunnies The tires I have are slicks, but they are wider than I probably need. I didn't know they were available in 26x1.5 and 26x2.0 when I bought them locally, so the bike shop sold me the wider size.
ETA: or get the slicks and use them just as a way to get more biking in and buy time searching for a good deal on your next ride.
I would absolutely make the switch to a road bike. It is a night and day difference for all the reasons you listed. It’s like running in hiking boots. Can it be done? Yes. Is it efficient? No.
I would absolutely make the switch to a road bike. It is a night and day difference for all the reasons you listed. It’s like running in hiking boots. Can it be done? Yes. Is it efficient? No.
You can do it both ways, you just go faster for less effort on a road bike. My commute is 11 miles each way. I averaged close to 50 minutes when I started out on a heavy, slightly too small for me old mountain bike with an upright position and knobby tires. Same route is just over 40 minutes on my much lighter road bike with slick tires. I've improved as a cyclist, but a lot of that difference is being able to get my back parallel with the ground, my arms closer in, and having a lighter frame.
As for the actual biking part, my concerns are really about the weight I have on my bike. I have a rear bike basket that has a ton of weight in it. My backpack is something like 25lbs, plus my Kyptonite lock that's 10lbs, so it really offsets my weight when I'm going uphill. Hasn't been too much of a problem, but it really slows me down.
I finally did it, 2 months after my first post. After successful procrastination, tire/tube replacements, and enough practice rides, I made it to work on time this morning.
Turns out my bike commute is actually 7.3 miles, as opposed to my car commute which is 5.3. It took me 50 minutes, with my dorky directions taped to my handlebars. There were very few cars on the road at that hour and I felt very safe the entire time.
Since my work is only me and the owner, he was very impressed and took a pic of me and my bike and sent it to his family and some friends that his office manager is a badass! Little stuff like that makes me feel very valued here.
I haven't cycled for over a year now. Really need to just bring the bloody bike to get new tyres fitted and get back on it. It seems astonishing to me that it has been over a year already. Having moved to a new town, I've been a bit nervous anyway about finding the right routes, having to drive in traffic more frequently, having to contend with masses of other cyclists on relatively narrow cycle paths (student town, there are a LOT of cyclists here). I learned to ride a bike as a kid but have never been a very good cyclist. I should stop letting nerves be an excuse though.Many, many moons later, I actually brought my bike to be fixed on Monday. I pumped up the tyres and actually rode it there. It's not far, maybe a bit less than a ten-minute walk, but I wasn't going to make it before they closed otherwise. Was a little bit shaky but it was only for a few minutes so I knew it'd be okay. Hard to cycle when somehow the brake lever had slipped (been pushed?, who knows) down so that it was hitting off my knee. Anyway, I'll be able to pick it up at the weekend with fancy schmancy puncture-proof tyres and everything else that needs doing all fixed. Presumably they'll remove all the cobwebs in the process of fixing it. :)
Well done, ElizaStache! And so nice to have a job and boss that can make you feel like that.I haven't cycled for over a year now. Really need to just bring the bloody bike to get new tyres fitted and get back on it. It seems astonishing to me that it has been over a year already. Having moved to a new town, I've been a bit nervous anyway about finding the right routes, having to drive in traffic more frequently, having to contend with masses of other cyclists on relatively narrow cycle paths (student town, there are a LOT of cyclists here). I learned to ride a bike as a kid but have never been a very good cyclist. I should stop letting nerves be an excuse though.Many, many moons later, I actually brought my bike to be fixed on Monday. I pumped up the tyres and actually rode it there. It's not far, maybe a bit less than a ten-minute walk, but I wasn't going to make it before they closed otherwise. Was a little bit shaky but it was only for a few minutes so I knew it'd be okay. Hard to cycle when somehow the brake lever had slipped (been pushed?, who knows) down so that it was hitting off my knee. Anyway, I'll be able to pick it up at the weekend with fancy schmancy puncture-proof tyres and everything else that needs doing all fixed. Presumably they'll remove all the cobwebs in the process of fixing it. :)
Only thing troubling me now is that sharp pain I was feeling in my left knee. Cycling is supposed to be the thing I can do to try and improve arthrosis symptoms and I haven't noticed that pain using an exercise bike. Will have to see how it goes at the weekend and maybe have a chat with the physio.
Well done, ElizaStache! And so nice to have a job and boss that can make you feel like that.I haven't cycled for over a year now. Really need to just bring the bloody bike to get new tyres fitted and get back on it. It seems astonishing to me that it has been over a year already. Having moved to a new town, I've been a bit nervous anyway about finding the right routes, having to drive in traffic more frequently, having to contend with masses of other cyclists on relatively narrow cycle paths (student town, there are a LOT of cyclists here). I learned to ride a bike as a kid but have never been a very good cyclist. I should stop letting nerves be an excuse though.Many, many moons later, I actually brought my bike to be fixed on Monday. I pumped up the tyres and actually rode it there. It's not far, maybe a bit less than a ten-minute walk, but I wasn't going to make it before they closed otherwise. Was a little bit shaky but it was only for a few minutes so I knew it'd be okay. Hard to cycle when somehow the brake lever had slipped (been pushed?, who knows) down so that it was hitting off my knee. Anyway, I'll be able to pick it up at the weekend with fancy schmancy puncture-proof tyres and everything else that needs doing all fixed. Presumably they'll remove all the cobwebs in the process of fixing it. :)
Only thing troubling me now is that sharp pain I was feeling in my left knee. Cycling is supposed to be the thing I can do to try and improve arthrosis symptoms and I haven't noticed that pain using an exercise bike. Will have to see how it goes at the weekend and maybe have a chat with the physio.
I have a tentative diagnosis for your knee problem. :P
21.7mph = (Wheel (Rim: 26" Tire: 2.0)) (Chainring (Min: 22 Max: 44)) (Cog (Min: 11 Max: 34)) Cadence: 75 rpmI know this post is old, but I will point out that just because it is the same cadence doesn't mean it is the same power output. going 5.4 mph faster at the same cadence may still be 100 more watts of power to maintain that cadence. My experience is that the benefit of road gearing is the closer gears, that let me make little gearing adjustments with minor speed changes to keep me at my preferred cadence. In short, Yes, I think you'd be faster on a road bike, but more because of aerodynamics and a slight benefit of keeping your sustained power output paired with a cadence that is comfortably uncomfortable. I'd expect more a benefit of 1-2 mph, not 5. Just my $.02
27.1mph = (Wheel (Rim: 700c Tire: 28)) (Chainring (Min: 34 Max: 50)) (Cog (Min: 11 Max: 28)) Cadence: 75 rpm
Gain 5.4mph of top speed at the same cadence, just based on gear ratios. That doesn't factor in the higher tire pressures, more aerodynamic rider position, and overall lighter bike. Plus there's the comfort of knowing I'm nearly 25% faster... in my mind =P If a road bike gets me to pedal in to work more often, it could be worth the expense.
21.7mph = (Wheel (Rim: 26" Tire: 2.0)) (Chainring (Min: 22 Max: 44)) (Cog (Min: 11 Max: 34)) Cadence: 75 rpmI know this post is old, but I will point out that just because it is the same cadence doesn't mean it is the same power output. going 5.4 mph faster at the same cadence may still be 100 more watts of power to maintain that cadence. My experience is that the benefit of road gearing is the closer gears, that let me make little gearing adjustments with minor speed changes to keep me at my preferred cadence. In short, Yes, I think you'd be faster on a road bike, but more because of aerodynamics and a slight benefit of keeping your sustained power output paired with a cadence that is comfortably uncomfortable. I'd expect more a benefit of 1-2 mph, not 5. Just my $.02
27.1mph = (Wheel (Rim: 700c Tire: 28)) (Chainring (Min: 34 Max: 50)) (Cog (Min: 11 Max: 28)) Cadence: 75 rpm
Gain 5.4mph of top speed at the same cadence, just based on gear ratios. That doesn't factor in the higher tire pressures, more aerodynamic rider position, and overall lighter bike. Plus there's the comfort of knowing I'm nearly 25% faster... in my mind =P If a road bike gets me to pedal in to work more often, it could be worth the expense.
Well, I collected my bike today, complete with brand new tyres. All good to go. I cycled home and yep, left knee definitely hurts when I cycle. Will have to see if it just stays at the current level of (bearable) pain, or if it gets worse on a longer ride or over a longer period of time. I also talked to the woman in the shop about exactly what the best route is to get from here to where I walk. I really didn't want to have to be cycling along the main road. It's already pretty crowded and would involve cycling between the lane for cars and the lane for the tram. But there are quieter parallel roads she told me about and then once I get to the edge of my town, I can cross over and have to cycle up the hill a bit (good chance I might end up walking for this bit, even though it's not that steep really) and then I have a good run of quiet road/cycle lane through the vineyards until I get to the big town. Will need to go back down to the main road to get around the graveyard (but the main road is wider in the big town, with a cycle lane on the side of it) and then shortly after that I can turn off onto quieter roads again. Feeling semi-positive about it. Going to try it out on Saturday.
If your knees flare out as you're pedaling that can also cause problems because you end up putting forces at strange angles into them. You want them to track pretty much straight up and down as much as possible.This is definitely a problem and not just cycling. Working on it with the physio but the simple truth is that I have very fat legs and straight is not entirely possible in every movement. I'm still a bit cautious and trying to find the balance between push through this and it'll get better as you lose weight or be careful you don't entirely fuck things up beyond redemption.
Sorry furrychickens I was referring to systems where there is a single chainring at the front, cassette as normal at the back. A single speed is too limiting I think certainly for my routes and I agree with the knee concerns.
Okay crew, can we talk about bike commuting in the summer? It's been hitting 90 pretty consistently the last couple of weeks (ugh). Mornings have been okay so far, which is when I have to look presentable, but that's not gonna last. Any tips or tricks for not looking like a tomato-faced sweaty mess when I get to work?
Anyone here using a 1x system on a road orientated bike for their commute? Standards seem to change at a relentless pace and I’m sure sometimes the bike industry changes things for changes sake. However 1x seems to be a really good concept for a commuter. Less parts to go wrong, maintain and replace, much simpler cleaning, quiet and efficient, less likelihood of slipping a chain and being stood in the cold and rain trying to put it back on.
I’m a bit worried about gear gappage but with the correct chainring choice it shouldn’t be difficult to tailor something to a particular commute. Is it me or are some of the changes in recent years, disc brakes, trend to wider tyres, and 1x all seeming to be quite good for the commuter/recreational rider?
Okay crew, can we talk about bike commuting in the summer? It's been hitting 90 pretty consistently the last couple of weeks (ugh). Mornings have been okay so far, which is when I have to look presentable, but that's not gonna last. Any tips or tricks for not looking like a tomato-faced sweaty mess when I get to work?
I added one. These really have helped me cool down.Okay crew, can we talk about bike commuting in the summer? It's been hitting 90 pretty consistently the last couple of weeks (ugh). Mornings have been okay so far, which is when I have to look presentable, but that's not gonna last. Any tips or tricks for not looking like a tomato-faced sweaty mess when I get to work?
- Ride in different clothes. Shorts, shirt... I bought some Champion athletic wear on clearance from Target and I've liked it.
- Ditch the backpack. I've been leaving a few things at work and riding with a spare set of clothes in Topeak BackLoader.
- Leave some extra deodorant and a beach towel at work. Drink water to cool down.
- Use some unscented baby wipes.
Okay crew, can we talk about bike commuting in the summer? It's been hitting 90 pretty consistently the last couple of weeks (ugh). Mornings have been okay so far, which is when I have to look presentable, but that's not gonna last. Any tips or tricks for not looking like a tomato-faced sweaty mess when I get to work?
Anyone here using a 1x system on a road orientated bike for their commute? Standards seem to change at a relentless pace and I’m sure sometimes the bike industry changes things for changes sake. However 1x seems to be a really good concept for a commuter. Less parts to go wrong, maintain and replace, much simpler cleaning, quiet and efficient, less likelihood of slipping a chain and being stood in the cold and rain trying to put it back on.
I’m a bit worried about gear gappage but with the correct chainring choice it shouldn’t be difficult to tailor something to a particular commute. Is it me or are some of the changes in recent years, disc brakes, trend to wider tyres, and 1x all seeming to be quite good for the commuter/recreational rider?
Calculate the speed at your preferred cadence and translate it to each gear. If your preferred riding speed isn't at one of those gears, you need a different chain ring, or if you can't adjust the chain ring teeth to what you want, don't go 1x. Also, bigger gaps toward high end and low end are generally okay if you have small gaps around your normal riding speed. I've stayed away from these personally and have found happiness with a 50/34 x 12x30 11-speed setup. My curiosity is still there though, so if you try it please report back.
@ bike lock conversation - apparently I don't know the best way to do this. I have a small U lock but no cable lock, and I usually lock the frame to the rack at the front. I know not to lock only my front wheel, but should I be locking at the back instead?
At night it lives in our gated parking garage, and when I ride it around it's mostly in low-traffic areas - grocery store and library, primarily.
Lock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPKL5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@ bike lock conversation - apparently I don't know the best way to do this. I have a small U lock but no cable lock, and I usually lock the frame to the rack at the front. I know not to lock only my front wheel, but should I be locking at the back instead?GCN did a video on how to lock a bike: https://youtu.be/IXNASUSivqg?t=2m47s
@ bike lock conversation - apparently I don't know the best way to do this. I have a small U lock but no cable lock, and I usually lock the frame to the rack at the front. I know not to lock only my front wheel, but should I be locking at the back instead?GCN did a video on how to lock a bike: https://youtu.be/IXNASUSivqg?t=2m47s
I've heard of supergluing BBs into the allen key bolts to keep people from quickly plucking parts, but I haven't done it myself. I try to keep my bike indoors at home and at work.
That said, I ride a front triple (50 - 39 - 30) with an 11-25 on the back. Which makes me a weirdo. :P About 40% of my time is in the big ring, and 55% is in the middle ring . . . but for that 5% that I need it (often at the bottom ), it's really nice to have the granny gear.
I also don't understand gravel bikes, which appear to be the reinvention of touring bikes - robust build, clearance for big tires, wide wheel base, more upright. (I'll give gravel bikes a nod for having disc brakes though, so at least there's difference.)I think they are just an extension of the "endurance road" geometry and a reflection of the fact that normal mortals want bigger tires for crappy roads, but they still want to "go fast." I purchased mine because it gives me the ability to commute year-round (studded 700/35s don't fit road-bike frames), while in the summer still letting me be efficient enough to still ride group rides (700/28 slicks). Its a do-it-all bike. Not as good as a road bike at road biking, not as good as a touring bike at touring, but can do both reasonably well. Since I don't race, its a great compromise bike.
That said, I ride a front triple (50 - 39 - 30) with an 11-25 on the back. Which makes me a weirdo. :P About 40% of my time is in the big ring, and 55% is in the middle ring . . . but for that 5% that I need it (often at the bottom ), it's really nice to have the granny gear.
A 50/34 can be set-up with an 11-32. 34/32 is easier than 30/25. Road triples can be quirky to set-up the front derailleur. I liked my road triple, but when I got my current bike they were all but extinct. I'm okay with the compact gearing now that I know how to ride with it.
I also don't understand gravel bikes, which appear to be the reinvention of touring bikes - robust build, clearance for big tires, wide wheel base, more upright. (I'll give gravel bikes a nod for having disc brakes though, so at least there's difference.)I think they are just an extension of the "endurance road" geometry and a reflection of the fact that normal mortals want bigger tires for crappy roads, but they still want to "go fast." I purchased mine because it gives me the ability to commute year-round (studded 700/35s don't fit road-bike frames), while in the summer still letting me be efficient enough to still ride group rides (700/28 slicks). Its a do-it-all bike. Not as good as a road bike at road biking, not as good as a touring bike at touring, but can do both reasonably well. Since I don't race, its a great compromise bike.
The rear wheel and frame are the most expensive parts of your bike. Always lock them with the U-lock (unlike in the picture above left). If you don't have a cable, take your front wheel off (release your brake, loosen the quick release skewer, lift the front of the bike and it'll fall out) and lock it in the U-lock as shown above.
The rear wheel and frame are the most expensive parts of your bike. Always lock them with the U-lock (unlike in the picture above left). If you don't have a cable, take your front wheel off (release your brake, loosen the quick release skewer, lift the front of the bike and it'll fall out) and lock it in the U-lock as shown above.
I'll switch to the back. Not actually sure if the lock is big enough to go around the frame and the back wheel, but I'll check. I didn't realize the back wheel cost more than the front, but I suppose the whole gear system is back there.
I've taken the front wheel off before - to transport it in a car trunk when I first got it - and it was a huge pain. Not feeling particularly fond of the idea of repeating that every time I lock the bike.
The rear wheel and frame are the most expensive parts of your bike. Always lock them with the U-lock (unlike in the picture above left). If you don't have a cable, take your front wheel off (release your brake, loosen the quick release skewer, lift the front of the bike and it'll fall out) and lock it in the U-lock as shown above.
I'll switch to the back. Not actually sure if the lock is big enough to go around the frame and the back wheel, but I'll check. I didn't realize the back wheel cost more than the front, but I suppose the whole gear system is back there.
I've taken the front wheel off before - to transport it in a car trunk when I first got it - and it was a huge pain. Not feeling particularly fond of the idea of repeating that every time I lock the bike.
The rear wheel and frame are the most expensive parts of your bike. Always lock them with the U-lock (unlike in the picture above left). If you don't have a cable, take your front wheel off (release your brake, loosen the quick release skewer, lift the front of the bike and it'll fall out) and lock it in the U-lock as shown above.
I'll switch to the back. Not actually sure if the lock is big enough to go around the frame and the back wheel, but I'll check. I didn't realize the back wheel cost more than the front, but I suppose the whole gear system is back there.
I've taken the front wheel off before - to transport it in a car trunk when I first got it - and it was a huge pain. Not feeling particularly fond of the idea of repeating that every time I lock the bike.
You can - and probably should, unless you're racing - replace the quick release skewers with hex bolt skewers. You can then add locks to those if you wish, depending upon your bike. I'd still lock the rear wheel and frame with the U-lock, but in a pinch, at least the hex bolt skewers require a thief to have a tool and take more than 2 seconds to steal your wheel. (Granted, only perhaps 10-15 seconds with a tool). Of course, it'd only take a few seconds for a thief with a pair of cable cutters to deal with a cable, as well. Still, I see it as balancing the inconvenience to yourself and the inconvenience to a thief, taking into account the cost of the bike/bike components and the costs of the security measures.
Finally I did it! Rode my bike to work for the first time this year. A good portion of the ride is through the woods on trails and I got a little lost so it ended up taking about 20 mins longer than it should have but I did it and I don't mind having the extra time outside in the woods anyway. The ride should be about 8.5 miles but I think I probably added a half mile to that. On the way home I'm going a different way so I can stop by the grocery store.
Rode bike in for 3rd time this week. And the seat adjustment seems to have helped with the knee pain substantially. However, I'm having an embarrassing amount of trouble adjusting to getting on the bike with the new height and the pannier frame. Like, I had to go to a curb. It's worth the re-learning curve for less pain.
NBD - My first road bike. It's a 2013 Trek Domane 2.0, which uses the same aluminum frame as the 2.3, but with a lower end Tiagra 4600 groupset(which is plush by my standards.) I replaced the saddle and bar tape last night. Rode it in to work this morning, despite a front wheel that needs truing and a rear tire that needs to be replaced. Should be a great bike to mess around with for a long time. It already feels quicker than my 26" mtb commuter, but the different handlebar setup is going to take a while to get used to.
That's a nice bike!Thanks! I found it on eBay from a local business(BicycleBlueBook) on the day eBay was offering a 20% off($50 max value) coupon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Trek-Domane-2-0-T-Size-54-cm-INV-33006/283061507936
Bars look pretty high though. Get used to how drop bars feel for a bit, and then start playing around with your position on the bike. Typically most people will find that having the bars 5 - 10 cm below the saddle is more efficient. You can do this by removing spacers / flipping the stem around so it's not a riser. Just make sure that you're comfortable on the drops. You might also try moving the saddle back a bit further away from the bars . . . this reduces weight on the hands and recruits your core more while riding.
Finally I did it! Rode my bike to work for the first time this year. A good portion of the ride is through the woods on trails and I got a little lost so it ended up taking about 20 mins longer than it should have but I did it and I don't mind having the extra time outside in the woods anyway. The ride should be about 8.5 miles but I think I probably added a half mile to that. On the way home I'm going a different way so I can stop by the grocery store.
haypug!
What trails/routes do you use?
I live in Bedford and have been commuting to work (in Lexington) since November.
I don’t bike into Boston too often but use the Minuteman most of the way in to Alewife and then fan off from there.
Question for some folks - what should I bring/get when I'm about to bike in the rain?
I don't have any real raincoats or anything, so I'm starting from scratch.
I have travel pants that I like to wear riding, but I'm not sure if they're waterproof.
I have tested my panniers when I got caught in a deluge a few weeks back - fortunately, everything stayed dry and protected.
Thanks, GuitarStv. :)
That's true.
I'm gonna have to figure out what clothing won't get me chilled. Where I live, rain is often accompanied by really cold winds.
I bought some water resistant zippered pack bags that I tend to keep my clothes in, so they should be fine.
I got some overshoes for the next time it rains. Last time I got caught in a downpour and went through some puddles, my shoes filled up with water. That wasn't much fun. Lights are a must for safety.
Are there any recommendations on overall reach? I've been playing with different positions, moving the stem up and down, flipping the stem, slightly angling the bars, but wasn't sure if there's a formula or measurement I could use to determine where my grip on the hoods should be. I even saw some different bars with other reach sizes(85mm,100mm), compact drops, shallow drops... My current bars are 42cm wide and I was thinking of 40cm. I've ridden 4 days in a row to work on the bike, feeling fine after, but I'm trying to improve how I feel during the ride. I bet I just need to focus more on relaxing my arms, grip, etc.
Reach is a tricky one because there are so many ways to change it. It seems like everything will throw reach off.My bike and I abide by your rule of thumb and I've had comfortable rides since my last post, so the stem/handlebar/saddle position game is over. Gracias for your guidance.
Wider bars shorten reach.
Raising your saddle increases reach.
Lowering your bars increases reach.
Saddle fore/aft changes reach.
Every bar has a different reach.
Reach to the drops is different than reach to the hoods, and changes a lot between bars.
You can change stem length to change reach.
The more your stem is angled up, the shorter your reach.
The best way to figure stuff out is to keep riding and adjusting things until you find a setup that you like and that's comfy. My rule of thumb is to rest my hands on the hoods and hold my forearms parallel to the ground. Your upper arm should be close to vertical (lower elbow no more than a half inch forward of this) if reach is about right.
It's only after big rides that I end up tinkering with position. I can comfortably ride almost any bike for an hour. On a two hour ride little things might start to annoy me. On a four hour ride you'll know for sure if something is wrong with your fit.
:P
Gonna pop in here in the hopes of giving myself some motivation. I'm trying to work up to being able to bike to work (4 miles). I started out with biking errands I usually walk, so 1-2 miles round-trip, and every time I've had to walk the bike back at least some of the way. I live at the top of a hill, so that's part of the problem... I'm having trouble convincing myself to bike on my errands, when it's so much easier and less painful to walk, especially in the 90F heat.
Any advice on motivation to keep biking?
Gonna pop in here in the hopes of giving myself some motivation. I'm trying to work up to being able to bike to work (4 miles). I started out with biking errands I usually walk, so 1-2 miles round-trip, and every time I've had to walk the bike back at least some of the way. I live at the top of a hill, so that's part of the problem... I'm having trouble convincing myself to bike on my errands, when it's so much easier and less painful to walk, especially in the 90F heat.
Any advice on motivation to keep biking?
If it's easier and less painful to walk, there's something REALLY REALLY wrong going on.
Stuff to check:
- Is your saddle too low? A low saddle robs your legs of power. Put your heels on the pedals and spin them backwards. You should just barely be able to contact the pedals at the bottom of each stroke without leaning your body from side to side on the saddle. (This usually means that it's not possible to stay on the saddle and put a foot on the ground on each side of the bike.) I'll recheck tonight, but I had set it as high as I could and still reach the pedals
- Are you using your gearing correctly? Pick an easy gear. No, easier than that one. Easier than that one. Pick the easiest gear on your bike. Now spin up the hill moving your legs quickly rather than grinding away slowly. It will feel weird and like your legs are moving way too fast initially. This takes pressure off your knees, and will reduce muscle pain (it will work your heart and cardiovascular system harder though).Even on the easiest gear, it's still hard to get up the hill.
- How are you carrying stuff on your bike? If you're dangling goods from plastic bags on the handles it can make your bike really hard to control (and kinda dangerous). Do you have a rack, or a backpack that you can use instead? Carrying in a backpack or on a rack
- Does your bike fit? Are you on a frame that's way too big or way too small for you? Is your saddle uncomfortable? Does your back hurt? Do your hands hurt? It's not uncomfortable, and nothing's hurting beyond being really sore the next day
- Are you brakes dragging? Are your bearings spinning nicely? Is your chain oiled? All of this stuff makes it harder to cycle. I don't know how to check those things, but I took it to a bike shop for new tires last month, and they did a courtesy check
- Do you have a ridiculous or crap bike? City/Dutch style bikes are great if you live in Holland. If you live in a place with hills, they kinda suck . . . because they weigh a ton and don't have much gearing range. Most cheap department store mountain bikes weigh a ton (although they've usually got a reasonably wide gearing range). All children's bikes weigh a ton (my son's bike weighs as much as mine . . . and he's like three and a half ft tall). Maybe? It's an old Huffy, but the bike shop guy said it's a pretty good bike
You should be moving faster and easier on a bike . . . which should provide all the motivation you need to keep going! 2 miles is nothing, even when hilly that's like a 10 - 15 minute easy ride if all the above is addressed.
Downhill is great, I just coast most of the way there, and even coming back it's probably faster than walking, but it's a lot more sweat and effort and soreness to pay for that speed.
Ah, a Huffy.
The bike can be made ridiable, but it's probably never going to be fun (particularly when climbing hills). The combination of the very heavy bike and general lack of strength might be the problem.
Focus on rule #5?
If you dislike riding a bike, I'm not sure that there's anything that anyone can possibly say that will convince you otherwise. If riding your bike is misery, then walk. Or use a scooter. Roller blades. Skateboard. Pogo stick. Unicycle. Get an e-bike so you don't have to pedal. Life is too short to force yourself to do stuff that you hate. That's fine. Everyone has different tastes and preferences.
As far as the rule #5 thing . . . You're starting out on a path to self improvement. You have a long way to go. It's a mistake pretending that it's always going to be easy. Anything worth doing in life is going to be a bit of a struggle. It's going to be tough. There will be times where you're hurting and have to keep going. There will be times when it's pouring freezing rain, there's a wild headwind, and you're miles from home. There will be times when the hill beats you, when your bike breaks down on you, when you crash and lose some skin. You are capable of overcoming all of those challenges. Doing so will make you stronger and more resilient. You'll be able to draw satisfaction from the fact that you were able to motivate yourself through the hard parts, and when you get one of those fun bits of cycling (the gorgeous sunny days, the downhill sections, the many little oddities and adventures that you find) you will know that you've really earned them.
It was mentioned briefly, but try an e-bike. Go to a store and give it a spin. It should solve your hill problems (unless these are epic hills, at which point the e-bike could be worse due to weight and insufficient torque to overcome gearing and said weight).
You might enjoy riding more, too. My e-bike is a blast to ride, and I know I'm not the only one who feels that way. There are options for conversion kits, as well as prices all about the spectrum if you end up wanting to proceed with it, but don't want to spend too much.
Regarding fossil fuels (since you state that as motivation), I did some back-of-the-envelope calculations based upon my experience, and my carbon output is lower on my e-bike than it would be on a regular bike. The electricity used emits less carbon than the food production that goes into the extra calories I would need on a regular bike. Part of this might be particular to my situation, as I live in CA and the electricity produced here is fairly carbon-friendly. Still, the electricity consumed is basically negligible. About 1 kWh for 80 miles for me; I do burn extra calories as well on the e-bike, but not as many as I would on a regular bike.
If life is too short to do things I hate, I shouldn't be driving either, or going to work at all for that matter.
Agreed. Find a job that you don't hate within walking distance of a place you can rent.
Agreed. Find a job that you don't hate within walking distance of a place you can rent.
Go on longer bike rides. Use the bike to go distances that you could never go by walking alone. Keep track of the total distance you've gone each week, and try to beat it the next week. Time yourself climbing your hill to get home each day and chart progress. Try to ride with other people when you can. Make small goals "I want to get up that hill without walking this time" and then make bigger goals "I'm going to go up and down that hill twice today". Work your way up to "I'm going to ride 100 miles on my bike today". Watch your body transform as you make it into a lean, mean, bike riding machine.@GuitarStv, looks like you're getting a little over zealous for cycling in the newbies thread. As always you have great advice for cyclists (thanks for your long distance cycling tips thread - I do want to do an century ride someday, but I know that's not for everyone - not even for everyone that likes cycling).
Oooh, once you get a tensiometer it's time to do some wheelbuilding! Start checking out sales on hubs and rims in the fall, you can build them over the winter and have an awesome new wheelset for the spring.A few years ago I looked into building my own (dished rear) wheel, but sourcing spokes appeared to be a problem. I could only find spokes at a reasonable price in bags of 50 - not great when you only need 18 in a particular length. Ended up spending about $250 on a hand-built wheel at a LBS.
@Raenia, Great job trying out biking on shorter errands. If you lived in flatter terrain, I'm sure you would have been much more successful working up to longer distances. Would your route to work involve more hills? Your old Huffy is probably fairly heavy. I think in your case, an e-bike might make a lot of sense. I'd look for someplace you can try one out on a hill similar to yours - you might even find you like it.
As far as spending money goes, it would be hard to justify the expense of a decent new e-bike based solely on the reduction of driving (easy to justify financially if it means you maintain fewer cars though).
In my city the local buses have bike racks, so a transit card in my pocket means I don't have to worry about being stranded. Do you know what resources for cycling your city has?
Hey Raenia,
I’ll throw out a few motivation suggestions with the hopes that one will stick!
I am a numbers person and really love looking at my biking stats. I bike for transportation and entertainment (not for exercise or trying to beat speed or distance PRs). It’s motivating to see how many miles I’ve rode. Apps like Strava compile your stats and give weekly/month/yearly stat totals.
Speaking of numbers, what about a running tally of calculating either how much gas you aren’t using per day/week/month/etc. or how much time you are saving by biking rather than walking which you can use doing something else.
How about a commuting buddy? Is there someone from your work that you can meet up with and bike in together? Can you recruit someone to do it with you even 1-2 times a week to start?
What about an accountability partner that will check in with you (however often you need) to hold you accountable and also motivate you to reach your goals.
Would spending money (for instance buying an e bike like others have suggested) give you motivation to use it and not collect dust in storage?
Oooh, once you get a tensiometer it's time to do some wheelbuilding! Start checking out sales on hubs and rims in the fall, you can build them over the winter and have an awesome new wheelset for the spring.Haha, for now I just want the tensiometer for keeping my own wheels true and properly maintained. Maybe I'll turn wheel truing into a side gig later: "Wheels trued for $20 or your wheels back. (No warranty - Not liable for damages[even if clearly intentional].)"
:P
A commuting buddy would be fantastic, unfortunately none of my coworkers live in the same area as me, and they are all much further away (I don't think any of them commute less than 40 min, many longer.)Commute buddy doesn't have to be a co-worker, a neighbor who works in the same general area would work just as well. Of course co-workers are easier to meet with to discuss the idea.
Thanks for the ideas! I don't have a smartphone to use an app, but I could probably whip up a spreadsheet to show miles/time saved/gas saved and enter the numbers when I get home.I've done plenty of tracking my miles manually. You can get cycle computers to track distance (and speed) for less than $10. I do know that Strava also works on a tablet that has GPS.
Thanks for the ideas! I don't have a smartphone to use an app, but I could probably whip up a spreadsheet to show miles/time saved/gas saved and enter the numbers when I get home.I've done plenty of tracking my miles manually. You can get cycle computers to track distance (and speed) for less than $10. I do know that Strava also works on a tablet that has GPS.
No pressure to build 'em or anything. I waited five years until my wheelset was breaking spokes pretty regularly and the rims were wearing through from braking before changing mine out. Going from a 2400 g wheelset to the 1750 gram wheelset that I built was a pretty dramatic change to the bike though.I think I only got about 5000 miles on machine built 32 straight spoke rear wheels. Upgrading to hand built, 36 single butted spoke rear wheel has improved durability drastically. Never have had issues with machine built 32 straight spoke front wheels (did replace both wheels as a wheel set once, but probably didn't need to replace the front - do have rim brakes, so front rim will need replacing eventually).
Agreed on the difference between a road and mountain bike too. Just the body position alone makes you significantly faster for the same effort.
:P
It's better when you are building a wheel set. Often both sides of the front and the NDS rear spokes are the same length . . . so for 32 spoked wheels you need 48 of one size, 16 of another. Two bags of 50. I've found good prices at JensonUSA for wheelsmith double butted and straight spokes. I'd love to use Sapim CX Rays but they range from damned expensive to totally ridiculous depending on where you look. :PGood point about wheel set. 50 spokes is even enough for 32 front and 18 rear. I did think about going with a not dished wheel by swapping out my derailleurs for a NuVinci Nfinity hub.
Manual tracking is pretty easy. You'll find that you tend to cycle to/from the same places pretty regularly (home-work, home-library, home-grocery store) so it's mostly a matter of checking Google maps for the distance once and then simply tallying things up.I do love that Google maps shows the elevation profile of the ride for cycling directions (although mine is usually simply "mostly flat"). An inexpensive cycle computer won't provide that (I believe Stava does).
* Also worth tracking if you're in a hilly area is the height change that you ride. Doing 10 km on the flat is totally different than doing 10 km with two thousand feet of climbing!
Just picked this up on a whim at the library (was on display).
Might be a good read for those just starting their commuting journey—I’ll let you know if I think it’s worth the read!
How is everyone’s commuting going?
Triumphs? Obstacles? Challenges?
Happy biking!
My mood improves the more I bike too, but my ripped stomach is still hiding under some other stuff. Props to you for all the biking.Just picked this up on a whim at the library (was on display).
Might be a good read for those just starting their commuting journey—I’ll let you know if I think it’s worth the read!
How is everyone’s commuting going?
Triumphs? Obstacles? Challenges?
Happy biking!
Nice. I highly recommend "Just Ride" for the beginner commuter or one thinking about taking the plunge. Helps to detach yourself from any fears and to approach commuting by bike rationally (and also not like a racer, which the author likes to poke fun of, having been one himself).
I just finished a month straight of commuting only by bike to work. I even made it a point to only use my car if 1. I was leaving my city limits (which is quite large) or 2. my gf and I were going somewhere further than she was willing to walk (doesn't happen often, she doesn't have a bike - YET).
So this means going to work, getting groceries, taking the kid to parks, library, etc. all has been done by bicycle. Most noticeable things so far are my appetite is enormous and I feel like I'm never satiated. And I suddenly have a "ripped" stomach. It's not bodybuilder-like but it is noticeably different. The gf also said that lately I've been in a really good mood all of the time. Not sure if this has anything to do with biking but I like to think it is.
I've really come to detest driving in all honesty. I can feel the mental difference when driving a car versus riding a bike or walking. Stress vs a feeling of freedom. I drive to the burbs every weekend out of necessity and that's plenty of driving for me every week. I wish I could eliminate that but all my family lives in suburbs (south of me) and even my son stays with his mom in another suburb (north of me). There's just too much damn sprawl here.
Ok, rant over, bike commuting is going well :)
Yes! I need a bright/reflective vest like that but I'm in the No Clothes Shopping Challenge!!! Maybe that wont count since it's for safety reasons? ;)
I have been slacking terribly with biking to work. Ever time I'm like "tomorrow I'm going to ride" I check the weather and see it's going to rain, like tomorrow. So I plan to ride Thursday and Friday when it's not going to rain. I figure if I write it down here then I have to stick to it, right?
Yes! I need a bright/reflective vest like that but I'm in the No Clothes Shopping Challenge!!! Maybe that wont count since it's for safety reasons? ;)
I have been slacking terribly with biking to work. Ever time I'm like "tomorrow I'm going to ride" I check the weather and see it's going to rain, like tomorrow. So I plan to ride Thursday and Friday when it's not going to rain. I figure if I write it down here then I have to stick to it, right?
Buy reflective patches and sew them on a jacket you already own, or your backpack.
Yes! I need a bright/reflective vest like that but I'm in the No Clothes Shopping Challenge!!! Maybe that wont count since it's for safety reasons? ;)
I have been slacking terribly with biking to work. Ever time I'm like "tomorrow I'm going to ride" I check the weather and see it's going to rain, like tomorrow. So I plan to ride Thursday and Friday when it's not going to rain. I figure if I write it down here then I have to stick to it, right?
We’ll hold you accountable!
I’ll be checking back Thursday & Friday to see how you made out
I did it! Rode my bike to work 9.1 miles in 1 hour. Hoping to eventually cut that time down a little but it's a nice ride and spending an hour outside twice a day is lovely.
I did it! Rode my bike to work 9.1 miles in 1 hour. Hoping to eventually cut that time down a little but it's a nice ride and spending an hour outside twice a day is lovely.Nice! The distance makes it pretty easy to calculate how fast you're traveling. That'll be some good exercise.
Reach is a tricky one because there are so many ways to change it. It seems like everything will throw reach off.Swapped parts around again this weekend...
Wider bars shorten reach.
Raising your saddle increases reach.
Lowering your bars increases reach.
Saddle fore/aft changes reach.
Every bar has a different reach.
Reach to the drops is different than reach to the hoods, and changes a lot between bars.
You can change stem length to change reach.
The more your stem is angled up, the shorter your reach.
Apparently I need a new stem, and my bike is too old for them to have one in stock. So I went to two shops, and the second one suggested I go to the DIY shop up the street because they have old bits from donated bikes they've stripped for parts. They don't seem concerned about me riding on the bike in the meantime.Needing a new stem shouldn't be a reason you can't fix the rear brake.
And my squealing back brake is a great way to convince cars not to turn right into me at intersections. Much more effective than a cheery bell.
Apparently I need a new stem, and my bike is too old for them to have one in stock. So I went to two shops, and the second one suggested I go to the DIY shop up the street because they have old bits from donated bikes they've stripped for parts. They don't seem concerned about me riding on the bike in the meantime.Are you up for fixing the squeaky brakes yourself?
And my squealing back brake is a great way to convince cars not to turn right into me at intersections. Much more effective than a cheery bell.
[]
https://www.ilovebicycling.com/how-to-fix-squeaky-bike-brakes/
Joining this thread because the tips from the seasoned pros are great!
I’m hoping to bike more because since DD’s school moved to a new location, it’s faster to bike (~30 minutes) than to take public transportation (1 hr 15 min). We don’t have a car. The total ride is approx. 9 km on city roads, in Chinese traffic, in the largest city in China, with 8 bajillion other scooters, mopeds, motorcycles, bicycles, cargo bikes, etc. all driven by aggressive Chinese drivers.
I’m a total newbie and not a bike connoisseur at all. I have an e-bike that cost about $400 (Yunbike), which is a higher-end Chinese brand. They bill themselves as being a “smart bike” because you can bind your bike to your phone via an app that tracks your distance, battery power remaining, etc. It’s quite light and works wonderfully well, allowing me to pedal when I feel like it, but coast when I’m tired. And I don’t get to work too sweaty. And riding up hills becomes really easy, even when it is 100F (~35-38C) in high humidity) outside.
Welcome Freedomin5.
Keep us updated on how your commuting is going.
The other annoying thing you gotta remember is that you tend to get used to how your bike is setup . . . so sometimes even if you change it for the better, it will initially feel worse until you do a few longer rides on it. :PIt's been a long time(20 years) since I've ridden for such a long time(6 hours). Local bike shops have group rides that I've been thinking about joining in on. Going beyond my usual commute distance would be good and I've been itching to go farther.
Wait until you start swapping saddles, trying to find something that's comfortable for 6 hours.
Careful, don't scare off the newbies with all this talk of dialing in fit for long rides, better to take that to https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/share-your-badassity/guitarstv's-long-bike-ride-tips!/ (https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/share-your-badassity/guitarstv's-long-bike-ride-tips!/).Toy's R Us is gone, so a kid can't be a kid anymore... do I really need to admit that I'm not much of a newbie too?
I experimented with clipping in and using a backpack for the last few months.I like SPDs, but I'm able to leave a spare pair of shoes at work. There are some SPD compatible shoes that'll allow you to blend in with the normies or pedals which have a larger platform for normal shoes, like the Shimano M324. Clipless pedals helped with some knee pain I was having, so it would be hard to switch back.
Swapped out my SPDs back for my Power Grips and my first ride (which I did not have my feet in the straps) with the PGs had my feet flying off the pedals! I didn't realize how much I took advantage of pulling up on the pedals on the back end of the pedal rotation.
Installed my rack and pannier back on as well. For commuting and errands around town, the PGs and pannier are a much better option for me.
The hairiest part of the ride is one particular intersection where we are crossing 14 lanes of traffic (7 in each direction), half of those lanes are on-ramps onto a major highway. I think I’ve figured out the safest way to cross — there is safety in numbers so I try to bike in the middle of the 10-15 other bikes/mopeds/scooters trying to cross this massive avenue. Which basically means I’m biking as fast as possible with electric pedal assist on so I can keep up with the mopeds."Crosses14Lanes" would be a great username. Maybe add "2x per day" as a tagline for extra street cred. That's commitment.
Other than that...
Is there some kind of padded seat cover than I can just slip on top of my regular old seat? And take with me when I park my bike?
There are removable padded bike seat covers available (I don’t have any experience with them and therefore cannot make any recommendations).
Hi y’all! Essentially a biking newb here- haven’t rode a bike since wandering around my neighborhood as a kid. I’ve been wanting to get in on the bike to work scene, and scored a free bike over the weekend (Sedona XL Giant bought new about 4-5 years ago with some panniers). Definitely need to get a lot better at biking before I attempt to make the trip to work, though. Eventually, I will make my first commute on a Friday before a 3-day weekend when traffic is super-light, then work towards Fridays, and hopefully eventually just make it an everyday thing. I would love to go back to being a one-car family, but that’s a (much) longer term effort.
The problem I will eventually end up facing is that I have a nice, flat, 7 mile ride to work that has big car-lane-width shoulders for the first 6 miles and then turns into a mass of cloverleaf on/off ramps and entrance/exit lanes for the last mile. My place of work is smack in the middle of this. For a car, it’s very nice because it’s essentially like a 50 mph interstate- people getting on and off don’t mess with you. There is a back road/trail I think I could take that would only add 3 or so miles, but I will still have to deal with passing at least 4 ramp lanes (on and off for each direction of travel). I think I would just need to stop in the shoulder, wait for a break in traffic, and then make my way across. Small beans, I suppose, to experienced bikers, but it is what it is to me. I would be perfectly happy to cut off the road and do a bit through the woods but this is an old military base and they find old WWII/WWI munitions all the time. I can move my commute times a little bit, but not very much due to little ones at home/DW schedule/etc. (okay, in the spirit of MMM it's not *can't* but *not willing to make that sacrifice/effort*)
There is practically no biking culture in the area, and that little which does exist is focused toward group rides after hours for cardio exercise. In my 3 years working here I’ve seen someone biking at coming/going hours maybe 5 times? And those were along the nice shoulder parts, not at the hectic part.
So, I know what I want to do, what I need to do to get there, and how to do it. I guess I’m just posting for the sake of accountability?
How do pedestrians get around in this area? Is it possible to get off your bike and walk on the sidewalk past the most worrying sections of road?
One section I bike commute through in Toronto is very with multiple on/off-ramps to major highways. I'm able to get through it by being following the rules of the road, being confident, taking the lane when necessary, knowing my route very well, and making myself very visible (bright jacket, multiple rear lights, lots of reflective stuff). It's not the most fun part of my commute though and would be daunting if you're new to bike commuting.
Definitely try a couple dry runs at very quiet times (Sunday mornings are great for this) to get a feel for the route before jumping in at rush hour. My experience is that Fridays are often the scariest days to commute simply because people seem to be more rushed and in a worse mood.
'Tis the season to light up.+1. I started leaving my front 1400 lumen light in blinky mode starting this spring. In broad daylight I have had a lot fewer cars try and turn through me or cut me off at driveways and intersections, clearly a few more cars see me in their mirrors than before. Cars I never expected to yield often now do so rather than "going for it". It is also fun to ride right up to driver side windows of cars that pull into the intersection and block my bike lane. 1400 lumens flashing 3' from your face is painful comeuppance.
I run a bright blinkie on my seat post and another on my backpack all the time now that it's usually overcast or rainy. When it's very dark out I add in a bright headlight, two more lights on my backpack, and a blinking arm band on my signalling upper arm. Yes, it's overkill . . . but lights are cheap and effective.
It is also fun to ride right up to driver side windows of cars that pull into the intersection and block my bike lane. 1400 lumens flashing 3' from your face is painful comeuppance.I'm not sure what situation you're talking about here. If this is a driver who is waiting to turn right in the bike lane because there is no dedicated right hand turn lane, they are exhibiting correct behavior unless they cut off a cyclist when they entered the bike lane. If you're traveling straight, then pulling up along the left side of the vehicle is correct behavior, but I'd try to avoid annoying the driver with your light in this situation. If this is a driver who approached the intersection on a cross street from your right, they are likely exhibiting incorrect behavior. However, I can't picture a situation where pulling up close to their vehicle is the correct behavior for you unless you're executing a Copenhagen Left. If you're executing a Copenhagen Left, then the fact that they're blocking the bike lane forward does not interfere with your travel.
Biked to work today for the first time during the week, and the first time from my new place. I am not in shape! Puny little hills wiped me out. And even though I'm not carrying my bag on my back anymore it was still heavier than ideal - I could tell I was towing a weight. Time to reconsider whether I can leave my laptop at one place or the other.
Biked to work today for the first time during the week, and the first time from my new place. I am not in shape! Puny little hills wiped me out. And even though I'm not carrying my bag on my back anymore it was still heavier than ideal - I could tell I was towing a weight. Time to reconsider whether I can leave my laptop at one place or the other.
Good for you! Can you leave any of your clothes or other things at work to lighten your load? I leave a pair of shoes, pair of jeans, my towel (I shower at the office) and shampoo. The towel and jeans come get switched out once/week. Doing this lightens my daily load considerably.
Right now it's down to about 40 degrees F in the mornings. I wear my work clothes (boots, double knee Carharts, work sweatshirt) to ride in. Cutoff for gloves is about 45 degrees. At 35 degrees I'll add a layer between my shirt and sweatshirt and add a scarf. Down in the 20's I'll ad long john's under the pants. My rain gear is the very light variety and it and my lunch I carry on my back (no pannier).
I ride a Trek hybrid that needs a new bottom bracket and brake pads, but I've been lazy and am putting them off haha.
Current commute is 2.8 miles and is wholly on a paved riverside bike path.
I'm not sure what it was, but my third bike to work today was enormously easier than either of the first two. Small slopes that were wiping me out just a few days ago were a breeze today. So this is your motivation to give it another go, if your commute seemed overwhelming last time you tried it!
I've lightened my load since my first trip, which helped, but it wasn't any lighter than my second attempt, so that doesn't fully explain the difference. I think it was some combination of being better rested (last week I was still recovering from a tough move) and getting the hang of my gears again, and knowing the best way to do so on this particular route. Today I only got passed by cyclists who were clearly working harder than I was, as opposed to the first time when those 1-speed rentals were whizzing past like I was on an invisible hill they didn't have to worry about. And I've optimized the route home so that more of it is through campus - can't go as fast, but feels more comfortable.
I did get my bike light stolen yesterday, though. $20 lesson not to leave it on my handlebars.
I'm not sure what it was, but my third bike to work today was enormously easier than either of the first two. Small slopes that were wiping me out just a few days ago were a breeze today. So this is your motivation to give it another go, if your commute seemed overwhelming last time you tried it!
I've lightened my load since my first trip, which helped, but it wasn't any lighter than my second attempt, so that doesn't fully explain the difference. I think it was some combination of being better rested (last week I was still recovering from a tough move) and getting the hang of my gears again, and knowing the best way to do so on this particular route. Today I only got passed by cyclists who were clearly working harder than I was, as opposed to the first time when those 1-speed rentals were whizzing past like I was on an invisible hill they didn't have to worry about. And I've optimized the route home so that more of it is through campus - can't go as fast, but feels more comfortable.
I did get my bike light stolen yesterday, though. $20 lesson not to leave it on my handlebars.
Tailwind. :P
Learning which gear to use and when is a skill. The good news is once you have the skill it doesn't go away. So, if you give up biking at some point and then pick it back up again, you'll still be faster than you were the first time you started biking.
My commute's getting easier each day! At this point I'm clumsier about actually getting together everything I need than I am about the biking process. Yesterday it took me nearly as long to get out the door - kept having to go back for something I forgot - as it did to actually get to work.I agree that I am still clumsy about all of that also. I feel part of it is that I am adding gear over the first day I rode. Bike shorts (“butt shorts” as they are called in my household), bike gloves, wind breaker, little ear cover muff things to keep my ears warm in the morning. I am now looking into buying a sun visor to strap onto my helmet for the afternoon. I am going to look like such a fruitcake.
My commute's getting easier each day! At this point I'm clumsier about actually getting together everything I need than I am about the biking process. Yesterday it took me nearly as long to get out the door - kept having to go back for something I forgot - as it did to actually get to work.
I've already had a bike light stolen - I won't be putting that on the night before! My bike is in the garage 3 stories below my apartment. There's a lock on the bike room, but anyone from my complex could get access to it. (The bike is, of course, locked to a rack inside the locked room.)
I think more likely I can pack my bag the night before including with my light, water bottle, bungee net, and keys in it. Then rummage around in the morning to put them all in the right places on the bike.
How much were your ebikes, if you don’t mind sharing? I haven’t priced any out yet as I still have 5 months to use this one. This one is really nice and apparently costs something like $4k. I find myself debating about the cost, and whether I can justify it for taking me off the road four days a week. But then again if I frame it as my mental and physical health, perhaps the numbers don’t have to add up? I do feel so wonderful on days I bike.
Just started week 2 of my first regular bike commute. It's a 5-mile commute with some great bike lanes on roads that aren't too scary. I'm on a hand-me-down bike, but I managed to adjust the rear derailleur so that I can get all 7 of the rear gears working. (Of course the chain fell off my front gears today, so that may be a fix for tomorrow.)Awesome!
But new achievements every day. Yesterday I discovered that it hurts a lot less if I sit further back on my seat. Today I hit 16.5mph on a straightaway. A few days ago I started to feel stable enough that I'm not gripping the handlebars in terror for the whole ride. So far so good.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ has a buttload of tutorials for fixing everything on any bike(like tuning a front derailleur).
Where does it hurt? Finding the right saddle can take time. Local bike shops will sometimes measure your sit bone width to help you find the right seat.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ has a buttload of tutorials for fixing everything on any bike(like tuning a front derailleur).
Where does it hurt? Finding the right saddle can take time. Local bike shops will sometimes measure your sit bone width to help you find the right seat.
Thanks for the link, I'll take a look.
I suspect that I'm having a couple of problems, which I'm slowly figuring out (much thanks to this thread, in fact.) The first was some chafing. I've started wearing bike shorts as underwear and that seems to help. The other problem is perineum soreness, and I think it's that I'm sitting too far forward on the saddle. When I push myself backwards, onto my buttocks, I'm much more comfortable. I'll likely try making some saddle adjustments over the weekend to see if I can push myself into a better position.
Not to delve too deeply into sensitive topics, but I want to ask about not wearing underwear with bike shorts. A friend of mine strongly discouraged me from wearing underwear and alluded to all sorts of disastrous consequences if I did. I only have one pair right now and don’t do laundry every day, so I’ve been wearing underwear. Is that going to lead to gangrene and losing important bits of my body or something equally catastrophic?https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ has a buttload of tutorials for fixing everything on any bike(like tuning a front derailleur).
Where does it hurt? Finding the right saddle can take time. Local bike shops will sometimes measure your sit bone width to help you find the right seat.
Thanks for the link, I'll take a look.
I suspect that I'm having a couple of problems, which I'm slowly figuring out (much thanks to this thread, in fact.) The first was some chafing. I've started wearing bike shorts as underwear and that seems to help. The other problem is perineum soreness, and I think it's that I'm sitting too far forward on the saddle. When I push myself backwards, onto my buttocks, I'm much more comfortable. I'll likely try making some saddle adjustments over the weekend to see if I can push myself into a better position.
Not to delve too deeply into sensitive topics, but I want to ask about not wearing underwear with bike shorts. A friend of mine strongly discouraged me from wearing underwear and alluded to all sorts of disastrous consequences if I did. I only have one pair right now and don’t do laundry every day, so I’ve been wearing underwear. Is that going to lead to gangrene and losing important bits of my body or something equally catastrophic?https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ has a buttload of tutorials for fixing everything on any bike(like tuning a front derailleur).
Where does it hurt? Finding the right saddle can take time. Local bike shops will sometimes measure your sit bone width to help you find the right seat.
Thanks for the link, I'll take a look.
I suspect that I'm having a couple of problems, which I'm slowly figuring out (much thanks to this thread, in fact.) The first was some chafing. I've started wearing bike shorts as underwear and that seems to help. The other problem is perineum soreness, and I think it's that I'm sitting too far forward on the saddle. When I push myself backwards, onto my buttocks, I'm much more comfortable. I'll likely try making some saddle adjustments over the weekend to see if I can push myself into a better position.
After a few setbacks, I finally got the bike out again yesterday to run errands. My rear light had broken and I wasn't comfortable riding without a light on my roads, but I finally ordered a new one. I should be able to set up a crate on the rack, as well, which will hopefully be more comfortable than riding with a backpack. I've also figured out that part of why it feels like it takes just as long to bike as to walk, is actually just getting the bike outside - we don't have a bike rack at our apartment building, which means I have to keep it in the storage locker in the basement. Every time I want to bike, I have to go down, unlock the storage area, unlock our locker, pull the bike out, relock everything, haul it up a flight of stairs and out the door, and then I can finally walk it to the curb and get on. Then the whole thing in reverse when I get back - open the main door with my keyfob, hold the door from closing while lifting the bike over the step/threshold, carry it down the stairs, etc. It's a massive pain in the ass, but I don't think I have any better option right now. I'll just have to push through the annoyance until we move next year.How cold is “cold” for you? I am a total wimp in that department.
In other news, riding in the cold sucks! I need to get some gloves, and possibly grab a scarf to keep my neck warmer next time.
Not to delve too deeply into sensitive topics, but I want to ask about not wearing underwear with bike shorts. A friend of mine strongly discouraged me from wearing underwear and alluded to all sorts of disastrous consequences if I did. I only have one pair right now and don’t do laundry every day, so I’ve been wearing underwear. Is that going to lead to gangrene and losing important bits of my body or something equally catastrophic?https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ has a buttload of tutorials for fixing everything on any bike(like tuning a front derailleur).
Where does it hurt? Finding the right saddle can take time. Local bike shops will sometimes measure your sit bone width to help you find the right seat.
Thanks for the link, I'll take a look.
I suspect that I'm having a couple of problems, which I'm slowly figuring out (much thanks to this thread, in fact.) The first was some chafing. I've started wearing bike shorts as underwear and that seems to help. The other problem is perineum soreness, and I think it's that I'm sitting too far forward on the saddle. When I push myself backwards, onto my buttocks, I'm much more comfortable. I'll likely try making some saddle adjustments over the weekend to see if I can push myself into a better position.
Underwear has seams in areas where you tend to put pressure on your saddle. You're more likely to get chafing and sore spots wearing underwear under bike shorts, and the underwear prevents the bike shorts from wicking sweat away from your ass. Chafing can lead to skin infections (and the dreaded saddle sores) so it's generally recommended not to wear underwear under bike shorts. Wearing bike shorts multiple times in a row can also lead to infections (and the dreaded saddle sores), so it's not recommended as well.
You might get away with either while going short distances in cooler weather (especially if you're having a shower immediately after your rides), but probably best to get a couple more pairs of shorts (fall is a good time to pick up discounted stuff on sale) so you don't have to worry about this as much. It sucks to have to stop using your bike because you've got an oozing sore spot on your arse. :P
After a few setbacks, I finally got the bike out again yesterday to run errands. My rear light had broken and I wasn't comfortable riding without a light on my roads, but I finally ordered a new one. I should be able to set up a crate on the rack, as well, which will hopefully be more comfortable than riding with a backpack. I've also figured out that part of why it feels like it takes just as long to bike as to walk, is actually just getting the bike outside - we don't have a bike rack at our apartment building, which means I have to keep it in the storage locker in the basement. Every time I want to bike, I have to go down, unlock the storage area, unlock our locker, pull the bike out, relock everything, haul it up a flight of stairs and out the door, and then I can finally walk it to the curb and get on. Then the whole thing in reverse when I get back - open the main door with my keyfob, hold the door from closing while lifting the bike over the step/threshold, carry it down the stairs, etc. It's a massive pain in the ass, but I don't think I have any better option right now. I'll just have to push through the annoyance until we move next year.How cold is “cold” for you? I am a total wimp in that department.
In other news, riding in the cold sucks! I need to get some gloves, and possibly grab a scarf to keep my neck warmer next time.
I got these little ear cover thingies to protect my ears from the cold without having something that went over that head and interferes with my helmet. That has made the morning ride more pleasant.
I ordered a sun visor to attach to my helmet and a pair of padded bike pants. If they work well I’ll get another pair so I can have two pants and a short in rotation, and hopefully be able to wash them frequently enough. You peeps have scared me into ditching the knickers while riding. :)
I ordered a sun visor to attach to my helmet and a pair of padded bike pants. If they work well I’ll get another pair so I can have two pants and a short in rotation, and hopefully be able to wash them frequently enough. You peeps have scared me into ditching the knickers while riding. :)
You might get better use out of a cycling cap rather than a sun visor.
If I walk in to a bike shop and explain what I want the bike for (local errands of probably 5 miles max, and most likely much less than than), knowing very little about bikes, will they be able to help me with everything I know.
I ordered a sun visor to attach to my helmet and a pair of padded bike pants. If they work well I’ll get another pair so I can have two pants and a short in rotation, and hopefully be able to wash them frequently enough. You peeps have scared me into ditching the knickers while riding. :)
You might get better use out of a cycling cap rather than a sun visor.
Are sun visors and cycling caps better than simply wearing sunglasses?
If I walk in to a bike shop and explain what I want the bike for (local errands of probably 5 miles max, and most likely much less than than), knowing very little about bikes, will they be able to help me with everything I know.
That should be no problem for most any bike shop, but be prepared to visit a couple. Some shops cater more to different groups such as the racing roadie or dude bro mountain biker. Ask the guys at the shop if any of them ride to work and what they ride...
I ordered a sun visor to attach to my helmet and a pair of padded bike pants. If they work well I’ll get another pair so I can have two pants and a short in rotation, and hopefully be able to wash them frequently enough. You peeps have scared me into ditching the knickers while riding. :)
You might get better use out of a cycling cap rather than a sun visor.
Are sun visors and cycling caps better than simply wearing sunglasses?
Sometimes (especially in the morning) just blocking sun at a particular angle is much more effective than wearing sunglasses. A cycling cap can work as a sweatband on hot days as well (although if you sweat a lot it will only work for a limited time, and they do tend to keep your head a bit warmer . . . so YMMV). Generally I'd much prefer sunglasses if the problem is the sun and it's a hot day. Choosing between a visor and a cap, I'd go cap every time though.
Cycling caps rock for riding in the rain as they tend to keep the worst of the road spray off your glasses (and tend to keep your head warmer).
The problem is that the sun is at an angle so it manages to sneak around the side edge of my sunglasses. I end up tilting my head to the side in an attempt to block the sun with my helmet, leading to a crick in my neck.
I did end up ordering an attach-on visor thingie that is made for racing, so it should be able to handle the wind of my ebike speed. :) I am prepared for it looking ridiculously dorky, but it will just fit in with the bike (butt) shorts and gloves and everything else. :)
You’ve got me curious: what is a frozen puck?$3-4 frozen meal in a black tray. They remind me of a hockey puck, and taste marginally better.
Occasionally I hit a perfect tailwind while going somewhere and it's incredible. You feel light, powerful, and like an unstoppable force. Then you go waaaaayyy too far and end up paying for it on the return trip. :PThe best tailwinds I've experienced have been occasional summertime rides home. Unfortunately the wind rarely shifted before the morning ride, so a headwind battle to work AND the wind direction was not right for bringing cooler air at night, so hotter than average ride home the next day. In winter, wind from that direction is usually accompanied by wet weather that has me seeking rides on the bus instead of riding my bike.
Occasionally I hit a perfect tailwind while going somewhere and it's incredible. You feel light, powerful, and like an unstoppable force. Then you go waaaaayyy too far and end up paying for it on the return trip. :PThe best tailwinds I've experienced have been occasional summertime rides home. Unfortunately the wind rarely shifted before the morning ride, so a headwind battle to work AND the wind direction was not right for bringing cooler air at night, so hotter than average ride home the next day. In winter, wind from that direction is usually accompanied by wet weather that has me seeking rides on the bus instead of riding my bike.
Just had to share this photo from my ride yesterday.
I'd just like to point out the 1) red light, 2) massive thoroughfare during rush hour; you can't really tell but there are 8 lanes of traffic -- all those cars had the right of way as it was a green left turn light, 3) the fact that the old guy thought his motorized scooter could take on all of the cars. And it's not even like he had to wait that long. There was literally only THREE SECONDS left before the light changed to green.
Last week, I watched a coach bus (the Greyhound-type bus) hit a guy on a scooter. The scooter guy was wrong because he ran a red light going the wrong way in traffic right into the path of the left-turning bus.
On Tuesday, I saw the aftermath of a taxi who had hit a guy on the bike. The guy was in the bike lane crossing an intersection (he had the right of way); the taxi was turning right and apparently did not look before making the right turn. Cars often don't look or signal before turning or changing lanes.
This is what I put up with Every. Single. Day. I still like biking though because it's the fastest way to get where I need to go, and as long as you bike slowly and stay alert, you're generally okay. But all of you who talk about biking to work along a nature trail or whatnot are blessed beyond belief.
On Tuesday, I saw the aftermath of a taxi who had hit a guy on the bike. The guy was in the bike lane crossing an intersection (he had the right of way); the taxi was turning right and apparently did not look before making the right turn. Cars often don't look or signal before turning or changing lanes.The right hook (or left hook in lands where drivers sit on the right side of the car instead of driving the car on the right side of the road) is the most common problem for cyclists. Most motorists are at least a little aware that a cycle might be coming if there is a marked cycle lane making them slightly more likely to look and/or signal. One intersection I frequent has a bit of a jog to the right on the street I ride on, so from one direction the lanes turn about 45 degrees to the right just before the intersection. I'm in the habit of always signalling my slight left to continue on the street as so many motorists turning right fail to signal or look at that point. The timing of the lights and traffic mean I'm almost always passing cars that had been waiting at a red as I approach the intersection. I'm sure more than a few motorists who failed to signal their right turn have been a bit miffed when suddenly a cyclist at full speed is signaling in front of them and crossing their path (I don't cross the path of right turning vehicles that do signal - probably about 1 in 3 cars not signaling at this intersection turn right).
There are several types of vehicles that I've developed special rules for when cycling in Toronto:Your vehicle classifications seem universal (though I'd add SUVs with the pickups) and perhaps my city is better at training bus drivers to signal. I always get aggravated when an aggressive driver honks at me for taking a lane - particularly when I'm in a lane with painted sharrows and multiple lanes in my travel direction.
Taxis: They will close pass you, drive in bike lanes, cut you off, go through an intersection when it's not their right of way, switch back and forth between lanes unpredictably, run reds.
City Buses: City buses stop often, but around here at least it's very rare for them to signal when they're going to pull away from the curb and start back up again, and they often don't use their mirrors. (They also run red lights a surprising amount.) I try to give a wide berth when passing a stopped city bus.
Big Transport Trucks: This is mostly a visibility thing . . . I'm very careful never to go into blind spots or pass on the right. Generally I'd say that transports are more predictable than regular traffic, but that can lull you into a false sense of security.
Luxury cars: Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Tesla . . . I've found that these cars are more likely to close pass than generic cheaper brand cars. For such expensive cars you would think that they would come with turn signals as standard equipment, but judging by the amount of signalling I see from them, this is not the case.
Shiny New Looking Pickup Trucks: I get a lot of aggressive driving in general from people in these vehicles. Revving engines, close passes, screeching tires, slamming on brakes. Behavior seems to be worse outside of the city when you're cycling in the middle of nowhere, they're much less of a problem in busy traffic.
Re: the right hook. My take is drivers committing the hook (or near hook) aren’t accustomed to cyclists riding at “road bike” speed. They underestimate the speed the cyclist is moving and think they can safely make the turn without a conflict. I’ve seen it happen multiple times where the driver has the “oh sh1t” look when they realize the cyclist is still next to them when they try to make the turn. The only way to prevent it is to be aware of your surroundings.
Re: the right hook. My take is drivers committing the hook (or near hook) aren’t accustomed to cyclists riding at “road bike” speed. They underestimate the speed the cyclist is moving and think they can safely make the turn without a conflict. I’ve seen it happen multiple times where the driver has the “oh sh1t” look when they realize the cyclist is still next to them when they try to make the turn. The only way to prevent it is to be aware of your surroundings.
The other way to avoid it is to never pass a vehicle on the right when it's slowing or signalling at an intersection. At intersections shoulder check, and if it's clear pass the vehicle on the left (or come to a stop and wait if it's not safe to do so).
I find that I'm paranoid enough that I'm ringing my bike bell almost constantly, even around my fairly easy commute:
- Car is parked but has brake lights on and I'm going to pass? Ring.
- Car is out of my path but reversing into a parking space on my right? Ring.
- Car is approaching an intersection and hasn't made eye contact? Ring.
- Car is approaching an intersection and there are cars parked to my front, right, and I might not be very visible? Ring.
- Car is approaching an intersection and looks like they intend to do only a "rolling stop" anywhere near me? Ring.
- Car looks like it might make a right turn but doesn't have a signal on as I approach the intersection? Ring.
- Passing any stopped delivery vehicle? Ring.
Part of me feels like I'm being really annoying. Part of me feels like it's helpful just to remind people that I'm there on the road with them.
The other way to avoid it is to never pass a vehicle on the right when it's slowing or signalling at an intersection. At intersections shoulder check, and if it's clear pass the vehicle on the left (or come to a stop and wait if it's not safe to do so).I agree that if the vehicle is slowing without a signal indicating that they will turn left, you should be very cautious about passing on the right. If they are signaling a right turn, do not pass on right without clear eye contact with the driver assuring that they are waiting for you. I try to always take my right of way when it is safe to do so as it avoids delaying responsible drivers who know and follow the rules of the road.
Flat tire this morning!
$&%#£€¥?!!
Two weeks ago I got a flat too. Someone had helpfully sprinkled drywall screws in the bike lane for about 500m worth of my commute. So not only was I late because I had to fix a flat, I also spent 20 minutes picking up all those screws so I won't get a flat every day for the next 6 months.I once identified a particular part of my commute where I was regularly picking up staples in my tire (my solution was to change my route - your solution was much better for the world).
Oh jeez, that is horrible.Flat tire this morning!
$&%#£€¥?!!
Drat! But you had the stuff to fix it and know what to do, right?
Two weeks ago I got a flat too. Someone had helpfully sprinkled drywall screws in the bike lane for about 500m worth of my commute. So not only was I late because I had to fix a flat, I also spent 20 minutes picking up all those screws so I won't get a flat every day for the next 6 months.
I really need to force myself to change a flat at home, such that I'm not doing it for the first time in the cold/dark on the side of the road. I keep saying it, but haven't facepunched myself into doing it yet. The rear wheel in particular looks to be somewhat of a nightmare for my hub-mounted e-bike, and at this point I'm not quite sure I'd be able to do it. I have the tools/tube, but it still looks like a bear.The bad news is that rear tires get punctured more frequently than front (in my experience much more frequently). One explanation is that a sharp object may be lying flat on the ground, but disturbed by the front tire ends up pointy side up when the rear tire rolls over. Learning to take both wheels on/off is important.
Ok. Going to do the front one this weekend. Accountability and stuff. Depending on the results of that, will schedule up a rear tire practice down the (figurative!) road.
Tried a new shower room at work today. It is much nicer than the one I was using before. It's got several little personal changing areas + showers. Of course, I have the problem that I get water everywhere when showering, so my stuff ends up getting all wet... Somehow have to re-learn how to shower so that it doesn't look like I've flooded the room when I leave...
Keep up the good work Freedomin5!
On my quest, the old bike has been upgraded! New derailleur to fix the slipping gears, brakes, tires, a rear rack that will hold panniers if I get really motivated about this and a kick-ass USB-rechargeable headlight (thanks GuitarStv) plus a new MIPS helmet. Promised myself this would have to do until I drop 20 lbs and get my fitness level up to where it needs to be... Last bit is the cold weather bar mitts. Then my reward will be a new ride in 6 months or so after I see how the bike (and my motivation) hold up through the winter months.
Congrats! You sound pumped. :)Keep up the good work Freedomin5!
On my quest, the old bike has been upgraded! New derailleur to fix the slipping gears, brakes, tires, a rear rack that will hold panniers if I get really motivated about this and a kick-ass USB-rechargeable headlight (thanks GuitarStv) plus a new MIPS helmet. Promised myself this would have to do until I drop 20 lbs and get my fitness level up to where it needs to be... Last bit is the cold weather bar mitts. Then my reward will be a new ride in 6 months or so after I see how the bike (and my motivation) hold up through the winter months.
First real ride after the upgrades went great! Just 6 and a half miles with decent hills and 50/50 gravel/paved roads averaged just under 10MPH (bike is NOT a higher end bike, nor am I a higher end fitness level (yet ;-)). First ride with significant road traffic (thankfully in an area used to bikers) so that was educational for sure... Now added rear view mirrors to bike and helmet to avoid pooping myself with the folks who come up behind quietly, then FLOOR IT when going by... Fitness level and riding style lessons abounded as well... Hit a wall on the tougher hill section, but then really recovered with a 2nd kick to finish up the last 2.5 miles. Now also a Strava site user to keep up the stats, improve and build some cred' there. Keepin' on, keepin' on!
How clean is the floor? Do you put your towel down on the floor to step on when you get out? Dries the feet and the floor at the same time.
The trick to not feeling gassed by Friday is to get fitter than you need to be for commuting. So if you can do some sort of cross training on the weekend it'll help.
Yes and they can be used on the car too, rather than trusting unreliable garage air machines. A track pump is well worth it for someone regularly cycling.
Yes and they can be used on the car too, rather than trusting unreliable garage air machines. A track pump is well worth it for someone regularly cycling.
I've been pumping my car's tires with my track pump for years now. It's a good workout and saves me a dollar + trip to the gas station for air.
:P
Biking to work this morning was different with the time change. The sun was up so much higher that there were a lot more bicyclists on the roads and trails than I am used to seeing.
I know ya'll are probably thinking I'm so spoiled and lucky with a microscopic commute. However, I'm really inspired by reading about your legit biking commutes and want to use your words here to help my resolve when it's cold/rainy. Happy to join the club.
I'm ecstatic to be officially joining this thread, woo! It's more for accountability with myself vs anything else. I'm in the application process for an apt that's 1.5 miles away from work. My plan is to walk on nice days, bike in hot/cold weather (or if in a hurry), and avoid driving to/from work as much as possible. I'll be moving at the end of this month, which is great timing because I can get acclimated to the weather before our semi-Winter begins, probably in January. Previous driving commute was only 10 miles but usually 30 minutes due to a bazillion stop lights, drivers, and no decent alternative. It'll be beyond awesome to exchange that drive with a walk and get there in about the same time or less! Way less on biking days!!
Route is only two roads and possibly a short trail for a shortcut (need to investigate). The last half is on a road that goes under a busy tollway and keeps on going right to my office building, including a little bike rack in the parking garage. Both roads have four lanes and big sidewalks, but a lot of entrances/exits for apts and offices that will necessitate wariness and caution. BONUS/HAZARD (not sure, maybe you can tell me?): right around halfway is an elementary school with school zone limits. My first thought was that this would help cars be more aware of pedestrians/bikers...then I thought that it might be a net negative if there's a lot of traffic and angry late parents zooming in their Tahoes. I live right next to an elementary school now and definitely avoid walking the dog in that time/area. JACKPOT: office building also has a gym with nice showers. Idk if walking to work would break a sweat in the morning, but I'll have showers if necessary. I guess the plan for now whether biking or walking is to use a backpack to bring clothes and then change at work.
I know ya'll are probably thinking I'm so spoiled and lucky with a microscopic commute. However, I'm really inspired by reading about your legit biking commutes and want to use your words here to help my resolve when it's cold/rainy. Happy to join the club.
Only 1 ? for now...what time do ya'll bike? What are the optimal times to avoid rush hour drivers? My office is pretty flexible on schedule. For example, my cube neighbor gets here early (not sure when) and leaves at 3 everyday!! wtf?!
I’ve officially biked over 1000km, according to the odometer on the bike! Haven’t had any issues with the bike yet (knock on wood) but the brakes are a little wonky. One side is closer to the wheel than the other side and I don’t know how to center it back. They still work and I don’t bike fast (average 20km/hr) so I’m just making do for now.The good news is that when the brakes squeeze the rim they should self center on the rim so the brakes being off center when they are open should not cause braking power issues. If your wheel is true enough that you're not rubbing the closer break pad then there's not much harm to leaving it as is; however, if you can center your brakes, you could improve brake responsiveness by setting your open brake position to have a smaller overall gap from the rim. If the brake pad is rubbing the rim when you're not applying your brakes you are robbing yourself of power and wearing out your brake pad, so you should address the issue. One likely cause of the brake not retracting evenly is that the pivot points are starting to get gunked up and should be cleaned and lubed. It is also possible that the spring tension to pull the brakes away from the rim is not even (there are usually adjustment screws near the pivot points to adjust spring tension).
I’ve officially biked over 1000km, according to the odometer on the bike! Haven’t had any issues with the bike yet (knock on wood) but the brakes are a little wonky. One side is closer to the wheel than the other side and I don’t know how to center it back. They still work and I don’t bike fast (average 20km/hr) so I’m just making do for now.The good news is that when the brakes squeeze the rim they should self center on the rim so the brakes being off center when they are open should not cause braking power issues. If your wheel is true enough that you're not rubbing the closer break pad then there's not much harm to leaving it as is; however, if you can center your brakes, you could improve brake responsiveness by setting your open brake position to have a smaller overall gap from the rim. If the brake pad is rubbing the rim when you're not applying your brakes you are robbing yourself of power and wearing out your brake pad, so you should address the issue. One likely cause of the brake not retracting evenly is that the pivot points are starting to get gunked up and should be cleaned and lubed. It is also possible that the spring tension to pull the brakes away from the rim is not even (there are usually adjustment screws near the pivot points to adjust spring tension).
I’ve officially biked over 1000km, according to the odometer on the bike! Haven’t had any issues with the bike yet (knock on wood) but the brakes are a little wonky. One side is closer to the wheel than the other side and I don’t know how to center it back. They still work and I don’t bike fast (average 20km/hr) so I’m just making do for now.The good news is that when the brakes squeeze the rim they should self center on the rim so the brakes being off center when they are open should not cause braking power issues. If your wheel is true enough that you're not rubbing the closer break pad then there's not much harm to leaving it as is; however, if you can center your brakes, you could improve brake responsiveness by setting your open brake position to have a smaller overall gap from the rim. If the brake pad is rubbing the rim when you're not applying your brakes you are robbing yourself of power and wearing out your brake pad, so you should address the issue. One likely cause of the brake not retracting evenly is that the pivot points are starting to get gunked up and should be cleaned and lubed. It is also possible that the spring tension to pull the brakes away from the rim is not even (there are usually adjustment screws near the pivot points to adjust spring tension).
Any tips for making the cars less mad at you? (or maybe caring less?)
People are beeping at me
overtaking me without moving fully into the other lane
almost want to get a shirt with this logo or stick it to my backpack or something
Question: Do you have a video camera (like a dashcam) on your bike in case of accidents? If I get smooshed I feel like my parents will want to know who did it...
I don't know. Take your recent hit-and-run. A video could be helpful to authorities in tracking down and prosecuting the offender. A video could also be used to get media attention helping to educate some drivers about their responsibilities towards cyclists. Having a record of a collision (it was not an accident - the driver intentionally put you in danger) doesn't prevent that collision, but it could prevent a future one.Question: Do you have a video camera (like a dashcam) on your bike in case of accidents? If I get smooshed I feel like my parents will want to know who did it...
Nope. I don't think there's any real utility in having a camera while cycling. Having a record of the accident doesn't prevent the accident, which is what you really want.
Hello friends! Very newbie cyclist here. Last week I rode in to work (8km) on Thursday morning, left my bike at work over the weekend then rode it home Monday afternoon. Tuesday I rode it to work and home. Today I caught the bus, tomorrow I hope to ride depending on weather and tushie-tenderness.
I have booked in for a half-day riding course run by the council to brush up on my road rules (no car for the last three years and in this new city you must ride on the road not the path, heavy fines apply) and make sure that all my google-fu as to the road rules are what they are teaching.
Any tips for making the cars less mad at you? (or maybe caring less?) People are beeping at me, or overtaking me without moving fully into the other lane (moving over just half into the lane and zooming past me in the middle of my lane close enough to touch if I stretched out my hand) and it's unsettling... I almost want to get a shirt with this logo or stick it to my backpack or something...
Question: Do you have a video camera (like a dashcam) on your bike in case of accidents? If I get smooshed I feel like my parents will want to know who did it...
My first 5 out of 5 bike commute week last week. I am a "fair weather" rider, and been averaging 1-3 days per week since 2015, and stopping through the winter. This year, I'm trying to transition into a year round commuter. Today I'm 3/3 for this week, plan to make it 5/5 for 2 weeks in a row.
It's getting colder and wetter in Chicago though. How do you all deal with wet shoes/socks. I have dress shoes I change into at work. But my socks remained wet for most of the day. I can get a separate pair of socks for work also, but then my sneakers are still wet when I put them back on to go home. Are there any waterproof shoes that aren't winter boot-types that would work with biking?
overtaking me without moving fully into the other lane
You can try cycling further towards the middle of the lane, rather than staying as far to the right as possible. There's some kind of psychological thing that goes on that makes a person driving really, really, really, not want to cross over the line into the next lane. Often if you're cycling really far to the right, cars will pass you very closely in order to stay in the same lane as you. When you ride a foot or two from the right you get more room to maneuver around obstacles (potholes/debris), but more importantly, it forces a car to cross that line and exit the lane in order to pass you. Most cars don't care about close passing a cyclist, but are loathe to put a cyclist sized dent in their vehicle. :P
My first 5 out of 5 bike commute week last week. I am a "fair weather" rider, and been averaging 1-3 days per week since 2015, and stopping through the winter. This year, I'm trying to transition into a year round commuter. Today I'm 3/3 for this week, plan to make it 5/5 for 2 weeks in a row.
It's getting colder and wetter in Chicago though. How do you all deal with wet shoes/socks. I have dress shoes I change into at work. But my socks remained wet for most of the day. I can get a separate pair of socks for work also, but then my sneakers are still wet when I put them back on to go home. Are there any waterproof shoes that aren't winter boot-types that would work with biking?
My first 5 out of 5 bike commute week last week. I am a "fair weather" rider, and been averaging 1-3 days per week since 2015, and stopping through the winter. This year, I'm trying to transition into a year round commuter. Today I'm 3/3 for this week, plan to make it 5/5 for 2 weeks in a row.
It's getting colder and wetter in Chicago though. How do you all deal with wet shoes/socks. I have dress shoes I change into at work. But my socks remained wet for most of the day. I can get a separate pair of socks for work also, but then my sneakers are still wet when I put them back on to go home. Are there any waterproof shoes that aren't winter boot-types that would work with biking?
I have a pair of waterproof Keen trail shoes that keep my feet fairly dry. The problem is they don't cover my ankles, so the tops of my socks get wet and then it wicks down into the shoe.
Most of the time I wear neoprene shoe covers over my bike shoes (I ride clipless). Keeps my shoes dry and my feet warm.
New milestone. Biked to work today in full on chicago snow!!
I've commuted in torrential downpour, (light) hail, maybe a small flurry, but never in real snowfall. Now, it's still too warm for the snow to stick on the ground, but this was a big step.
Wore my regular wool gloves + snowboarding gloves, face mask, goggles. The only real part that was cold were my toes. I wore my wigwam socks, with my usual running shoes, and my toes were frozen numb by the end of the 6.5 mile ride. Still need to figure something out with my feet..
New milestone. Biked to work today in full on chicago snow!!
I've commuted in torrential downpour, (light) hail, maybe a small flurry, but never in real snowfall. Now, it's still too warm for the snow to stick on the ground, but this was a big step.
Wore my regular wool gloves + snowboarding gloves, face mask, goggles. The only real part that was cold were my toes. I wore my wigwam socks, with my usual running shoes, and my toes were frozen numb by the end of the 6.5 mile ride. Still need to figure something out with my feet..
New milestone. Biked to work today in full on chicago snow!!
I've commuted in torrential downpour, (light) hail, maybe a small flurry, but never in real snowfall. Now, it's still too warm for the snow to stick on the ground, but this was a big step.
Wore my regular wool gloves + snowboarding gloves, face mask, goggles. The only real part that was cold were my toes. I wore my wigwam socks, with my usual running shoes, and my toes were frozen numb by the end of the 6.5 mile ride. Still need to figure something out with my feet..
I didn’t ride today. Partially it is because I went on little runs on both days last weekend and am tired. Partially it is because the air quality outside is unhealthy due to massive fires north of us. I have a face mask and will probably use it to ride tomorrow, but it made a nice excuse today.Between air quality and DW's availability to drop me off/pick me up, I didn't ride the last half of last week after getting a flat (there was also other bike maintenance that needed attention that I became aware of early last week but did not prevent me from making my easy bike commute). DW's schedule doesn't allow for the drop off this week, but bike maintenance got taken care of yesterday and I rode again today. Although it will mean more days off the bike for me (no fenders), we need rain to come soon; but still none in the forecast.
Poor Bay Area air quality broke my 4 week streak of riding. I rode last Friday and it didn't feel like the brightest thing to be doing. I could tell I was a little more winded than usual, so I took that a sign my body was trying to tell me to degrease my chain, wash the frame, disassemble my bike and try to drill out a rusted stainless steel screw in the front fork so I can mount fenders for the future rainy days.
One news station was saying those N95 masks are only functional for about an hour.
An hour?! I don't think that's correct. If they are properly fitted (providing a good seal) a mask certified N95 will certainly filter particles for the day. I've read studies in the past that showed anywhere from 2% to 50% decrease in efficacy after one WEEK (if I'm remembering right they were measuring daily wear in Beijing).I tried to do some searching online about how long they are good for. I only found a bit about using them in areas with infectious disease and it was saying similar: 8 hours or every shift.
I believe most industries that require N95 wear also require changing them daily primarily for liability reasons. My hospital requires changing as we do any other mask (when leaving the sterile room) but I've worn them for at least 8 hours in a tuberculosis-positive case, and we are extremely conservative when it comes to possible pathogen exposure.
Changing them multiple times a day would add up $ fast!
Thanks for the info. I corrected my earlier post and added the 8 hour estimate. Good to know they may last longer. I'm not sure if things change while exercising:An hour?! I don't think that's correct. If they are properly fitted (providing a good seal) a mask certified N95 will certainly filter particles for the day. I've read studies in the past that showed anywhere from 2% to 50% decrease in efficacy after one WEEK (if I'm remembering right they were measuring daily wear in Beijing).I tried to do some searching online about how long they are good for. I only found a bit about using them in areas with infectious disease and it was saying similar: 8 hours or every shift.
I believe most industries that require N95 wear also require changing them daily primarily for liability reasons. My hospital requires changing as we do any other mask (when leaving the sterile room) but I've worn them for at least 8 hours in a tuberculosis-positive case, and we are extremely conservative when it comes to possible pathogen exposure.
Changing them multiple times a day would add up $ fast!
“Our preliminary data shows that many bicyclists are getting a bit over half of their daily air pollution dose in only 6 to 8 percent of their day during their daily commutes,”
But just as important as the level of pollution in an area is the effort exerted by a bicyclist to pedal through it. “We know that just walking we are breathing in two to three times the air as we are when we are sitting,” Dr. Chillrud explained. Cycling and other strenuous activities like jogging and playing basketball boost the volume of air — and therefore the particulates — that we are inhaling. Dr. Jack, for example, breathes in roughly 8 liters of air per minute when he is resting; when he cycles that volume soars to 70 liters. Biking hard, uphill or fast increases one’s pollution intake still further.
An hour?! I don't think that's correct. If they are properly fitted (providing a good seal) a mask certified N95 will certainly filter particles for the day. I've read studies in the past that showed anywhere from 2% to 50% decrease in efficacy after one WEEK (if I'm remembering right they were measuring daily wear in Beijing).
I believe most industries that require N95 wear also require changing them daily primarily for liability reasons. My hospital requires changing as we do any other mask (when leaving the sterile room) but I've worn them for at least 8 hours in a tuberculosis-positive case, and we are extremely conservative when it comes to possible pathogen exposure.
Changing them multiple times a day would add up $ fast!
Alternatively, just take a whole bunch of EPO, as it hugely increases your body's efficiency in utilising oxygen.*
*for the love of all that is good in the world, don't take a whole bunch of EPO.
In the autopsy, they found Juju was on EPO and cocaine, also some Insulin and Anabolic Steroids, Oxabolone, and, then Nandrolone, trace amounts of Norethandorlene and Furazabol.
They even found some Heroin in his system.
There was also Letrozole, Cyclazadone, some Estrogen Receptor Modulators, Raaloxifene and Tamoxifen, probably to ward off breast growth.
A lot of Oxycodone in his blood.
Phentermine, as well, Ortemamine, Bunolol, Lobatealol.
Plus, apparently he had hopped Ethanol and taken a couple of MDAs.
He clearly smoked some Crystal Meth and Crack and there was a Hormone from monkey testicles that he had cooked down into a broth that he drank.
He also had apparently eaten at least one sandwich at Arby's.
People dope! Yeah, they risk their lives. But, you know, this is a sport with literally hundreds of dollars on the line and dozens of fans that well - Stakes are medium!
Very, very important to unscrew things from the frame and add a little dab of grease on the threads at least once a year. :PI'm not sure that every year is vital, but the grease does help prevent dissimilar metals from forming bonds over time. I learned this when I needed to replace the bottom bracket on my aluminum frame bike about 20 years ago (also learned not to lay a bike down on its side especially for transport). It took an impact wrench to get my old one off and I got the advice about greasing the threads. I've certainly allowed more than a year between bottom bracket removals, but I always make sure there's some grease there when I put it back together.
The bike fairy is a lovely idea! What did you get?
On my commute this morning several cars and a bus were stopped because a tree had fallen over and was blocking half of a narrow road. I hopped up onto the sidewalk and bypassed the whole mess. :)
Hmm...got a rear blinking light, some hand warmers, a CO2 valve and some canisters, and some sort of massage/therapy ball.One route home for me involves passing over a multi lane highway where it goes below a surface street.. I usually think of the motorists as suckers as it's usually clear that I'm traveling faster than most of them (usually the motorists are traveling faster than me in the morning though).
Yeah, I've had a few commutes where I've been able to bypass a big snarl of cars due to construction, accidents, or whatever. I try to keep the smugness off my face, and keep it strictly matter-of-fact outwardly. Inside, I'm always thrilled.
Got hit by a car on my way home today. First time. There was a line of cars trying to pull out of a parking lot, as I neared I couldnt make eye contact with the driver or see if they were looking at me, I started to apply brakes but too late, she pulled out as I was passing and hit me. Wasn't too bad on me. I recognized it was happening and jumped off my bike landing on her hood and bouncing to the pavement. I got up and am fine with a minor scrape on my elbow and my ankle is a little sore (but not enough to bother me, I walked my dog this eve). My bike is wrecked though. I got all the info from the person, they were probably more shaken up than me! Very apologetic etc. Someone I know was a couple cars back and came out to help me and gave me a lift home. Apparently the guy behind the car that hit me was being really obnoxious and honking and revving his engine probably pressuring the car that hit me to pull out without looking properly.
I am going to go to the doctor tomorrow morning before making any insurance claims. Good thing I was biking pretty slowly and was being cautious about the car or it could have been way worse. Maybe I can get some insurance $$$ out of it and a newer bike. I'll buy more lights too.
It's probably going to be a while before I can bike again which sucks a lot. Parking at work is $5-8/day (depending on how early I get there) and the bus stops are really inconvenient. Oh well.
@sixwings, Hope you feel better soon! Get lots of pictures and document the injuries well... It might also be possible there's video if it was at an intersection that the city can provide if you have a case filed or the driver had a ticket for the accident... worth checking at least? No insurance company wants to see a well organized plaintiff... and bet they'll settle rather than have you parade the video/photo/medical details in court on a "car vs. cyclist" accident.Definitely file a police report.
@sixwings, Hope you feel better soon! Get lots of pictures and document the injuries well... It might also be possible there's video if it was at an intersection that the city can provide if you have a case filed or the driver had a ticket for the accident... worth checking at least? No insurance company wants to see a well organized plaintiff... and bet they'll settle rather than have you parade the video/photo/medical details in court on a "car vs. cyclist" accident.Definitely file a police report.
Insurance claim should include replacement cost of your bike, any medical costs incurred, and transportation costs (including parking) incurred for trips that you would have biked during the time your were not able to bike. I'd itemize these then add on something for your injuries (much harder to set a value on, so there might be some back and forth between you and the insurance on this item). Do your best to document everything as quickly as possible, but take your time to put together your claim to ensure you have missed any damages.
You also ride way faster in a group than solo. When you're riding solo, you're eating wind all the time. When you're in a paceline you're eating wind only occasionally, and the rest of the time you're sheltered behind someone else. It's about a third less effort sitting close on someone's tail. You just have to make sure they don't drop you on the hills if you're heavier. :P
Just wanted to say I decided not to bike today. The pic was taken this morning on our subway ride. The windows were perfectly clean. That foggy film is the AIR outside. That’s what an AQI of 200 looks like. After about 5 minutes outside without an N95 mask, your lungs start to burn, you feel dizzy and slightly nauseous, and you start to have difficulty breathing. I decided I’m not THAT hardcore of a cycler to be willing to ride through that air for an hour.
BTW, I apologize if the pic looks super huge on your screen. I simply attached it from my phone. No idea how to resize it.
Just wanted to say I decided not to bike today. The pic was taken this morning on our subway ride. The windows were perfectly clean. That foggy film is the AIR outside. That’s what an AQI of 200 looks like. After about 5 minutes outside without an N95 mask, your lungs start to burn, you feel dizzy and slightly nauseous, and you start to have difficulty breathing. I decided I’m not THAT hardcore of a cycler to be willing to ride through that air for an hour.
BTW, I apologize if the pic looks super huge on your screen. I simply attached it from my phone. No idea how to resize it.
Pic doesn't look huge at all. And I think deciding not to bike in those conditions is a bit like the difference between frugal and cheap. There's a time where *not* biking is the right choice just as there is a time where not taking the cheapest option is the right choice.
Just wanted to say I decided not to bike today. The pic was taken this morning on our subway ride. The windows were perfectly clean. That foggy film is the AIR outside. That’s what an AQI of 200 looks like. After about 5 minutes outside without an N95 mask, your lungs start to burn, you feel dizzy and slightly nauseous, and you start to have difficulty breathing. I decided I’m not THAT hardcore of a cycler to be willing to ride through that air for an hour.
BTW, I apologize if the pic looks super huge on your screen. I simply attached it from my phone. No idea how to resize it.
It's important to remember what a place largely devoid of enforced pollution controls looks like every time someone rails against the heavy burden of regulations.Amen.
So, it's my turn to ask about weather accommodations. Here in Southern California, December means that it is raining for the first time in months, and I have no idea how to bike in it. Do I accept getting soaked and change clothes at work? Do I just throw on a poncho? Do I need to do any particular care for my chain or other bike parts when they get wet? The bike is sheltered from rain but not from humidity on both ends of the commute.I’m in the Bay Area so figuring out the same stuff. :) I’m still working it out exactly how to do this, but it seems that a rainproof top jacket is crucial. I wear running/yoga pants and then change into jeans when I get to work. So far it is working all right though I haven’t biked in pouring rain the entire ride. I sort of count on the rain letting up once the sun comes up.
In the new year, I'd like to see how many days I can go without riding in a car. I haven't made it more than a week so far.
So, it's my turn to ask about weather accommodations. Here in Southern California, December means that it is raining for the first time in months, and I have no idea how to bike in it. Do I accept getting soaked and change clothes at work? Do I just throw on a poncho? Do I need to do any particular care for my chain or other bike parts when they get wet? The bike is sheltered from rain but not from humidity on both ends of the commute.
In the new year, I'd like to see how many days I can go without riding in a car. I haven't made it more than a week so far.
So, it's my turn to ask about weather accommodations. Here in Southern California, December means that it is raining for the first time in months, and I have no idea how to bike in it. Do I accept getting soaked and change clothes at work? Do I just throw on a poncho? Do I need to do any particular care for my chain or other bike parts when they get wet? The bike is sheltered from rain but not from humidity on both ends of the commute.
In the new year, I'd like to see how many days I can go without riding in a car. I haven't made it more than a week so far.
Fellow SoCal resident, riding in the rain for the first time as well. It's actually not generally warm and wet here, because it doesn't really rain when it's warm (unless you consider 40s-50s and raining warm; I don't, and I'm from the midwest). That's not to say that sweating under waterproof clothes isn't potentially an issue. I'm riding an e-bike, so I have less of a sweating concern.
Today was my first day of commuting through really heavy rain; there were a few days of light rain before, or where the heavy rain missed my commute times. I did buy booties to go over my dressy work shoes, and they seem to be working ok. I also bought a very light rain suit that works when it's drizzling or for a bit more warmth/windbreaking, but decidedly not in real rain. I may buy an actual waterproof jacket after that experience this morning.
Definitely want to light up; my morning commute is in the dark most of the year anyhow, so I'm used to that. I'm using a bright headlamp (1100 lumens), rear blinking leds on both the bike and my helmet, and a blinking armband.
-8 C this morning (17 F) with a driving wind. I'd consider 40-50 degrees in the rain pretty warm. :P
-8 C this morning (17 F) with a driving wind. I'd consider 40-50 degrees in the rain pretty warm. :P
My statement was in response to TrMama's supposition that when it rains in SoCal, it's warm. I'm not going to claim that we have cold winters here, but we don't generally have warm, rainy days. I'm pretty sure it wasn't raining where you were.
-8 C this morning (17 F) with a driving wind. I'd consider 40-50 degrees in the rain pretty warm. :PThe coldest, most miserable looking lot I have ever seen were a friends visiting Philipino family members on a 55F sunny day in Norther California in August. Growing up in Alaska we considered anything in the 30's during Spring to be T-shirt weather.
Similarly, SoCal folks surely snicker when they see those from the Great White North melt and shutdown on a 110F summer day.
The coldest, most miserable looking lot I have ever seen were a friends visiting Philipino family members on a 55F sunny day in Norther California in August.55F a decent low temperature in Northern California in August, but I can't picture a sunny day holding onto such a temperature for more than a few hours after sunrise.
It's been miserable in the southeast with rain and cold and it's flippin' dark at5:304:30 at night so no bike rides last weekend. Suffering withdrawal symptoms. My bike looks so sad waiting just inside the garage...
By CA I take it you mean the international two letter country abbreviation (not sure what situations it is standard to capitalize both letters in that system, not the two letter US state postal abbreviation standard matching the other abbreviations use. Even here in CA, USA it is dark for at least part of most people's commutes in each direction right now.It's been miserable in the southeast with rain and cold and it's flippin' dark at5:304:30 at night so no bike rides last weekend. Suffering withdrawal symptoms. My bike looks so sad waiting just inside the garage...
I fixed that for you. ;) There is no such thing as commuting without lights in WI. Generator hubs are quite popular here among commuters for this reason. Dark in the morning till 7ish, dark by 4:30. At least the days will start getting longer soon. I'm sure there are folks in CA or AK that have it even worse for hours of daylight.
Thanks everyone! I filed a police report for the insurance claim and went to the doctor today. Doctors visit went well, went to a walk-in clinic and was in and out in a hour, he poked me in a few places and I got some x-rays done. Nothing broken or torn so that's good. My ankle was bothering me slightly (uncomfortable to run on but fine to walk on), he said it's just a light sprain and it feels much better now. It looks like I walked away with a broken bike and a few minor scratches so I'm pretty grateful for that.
I'll probably file my insurance claim tomorrow, I live in BC Canada so the insurance company I have to deal with is ICBC and they are horrendously stingy and litigious.
I'm not very litigious, but insurance companies in the US are notorious for low-balling settlement payouts for bicycle accidents. I have read dozens of stories of large, monolithic insurance companies offering a very low payout on the initial offer. It might be worth consulting with a lawyer before you file a claim.I expect insurance companies in the US to low-ball settlement payouts for any claim that doesn't have hard numbers behind it. Certainly the insurance won't include things like added cost of your commute because you can no longer bike during recovery. They might be fairly reasonable about replacement costs for physical damage to the bike and shouldn't have any difficulty accepting responsibility for medical bills charged to you for your injuries (I have no idea if health insurance goes after the liability insurance for covered costs of treatment - but I think they should). Beyond that, you'll likely have to fight them.
For Christmas, I was gifted the World's Loudest Bike Horn. Uncertain how useful this will be...Haha!
It was great except for on the way there he swerved to avoid a squirrel crossing the road. I couldn’t swerve fast enough and I hit the poor thing. It ran away but I feel bad thinking about the damage it must be suffering now.
Bought myself a bike trailer. I had been lusting after one that would actually work with my hub-mounted e-bike (Burley Travoy), but couldn't pull the trigger. Then, someone gave me $100 towards a bike trailer for Christmas. Still had to pony up $100 after finding it on sale, but I've been really trying to move to a bike-centric life, and this should help; can hopefully do full grocery trips instead of the partial trips and smaller errands I've been doing (limited by what will fit in my panniers and occasionally a backpack).
I was hoping to find one used, but people just don't seem to let these things go. They only one I've found was probably stolen merchandise, missing several normally included parts, and a high price on top of it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190102/917b414fb0d57f9145b7699cb2a1de35.jpg)It's been cold in the Bay Area, in the 30's each morning I leave my place. I feel like I pedal slower in cold weather.
I left my bike parked outside last night. Today it was covered in frost when I went out to start my commute. The frosty helmet was, well, frosty when I put it on. Brrr
Does anybody else do 25+ mile commutes? What's your setup look like? What's your average time? How long is your workday?
Does anybody else do 25+ mile commutes? What's your setup look like? What's your average time? How long is your workday?
Not sure the rules of mentioning other forums, so if this is a no-no, mods, feel free to remove this post. There is a commuter (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/) sub-forum to a bicycle discussion forum where you might get more traction on this particular topic. 25 is a long way. You could always do the bike drive approach. Drive to work with bike in/on car. Bike home leaving car at work. Bike back to work, drive home etc. Makes it more doable, but still has challenges and assumes you have a car and can leave it at work.
Best of luck!
Usually people are referring to “butt pants”, as my husband calls them. I got to the point of just wearing running pants now that I am used to my saddle.
I went to my husband’s work today on our day off just to have a quiet space where we could work and talk about personal finance stuff. I convinced him to ride with me instead of drive. It was great except for on the way there he swerved to avoid a squirrel crossing the road. I couldn’t swerve fast enough and I hit the poor thing. It ran away but I feel bad thinking about the damage it must be suffering now.
Give them wide berth. Squirrels are just about the perfect size to get stuck in your spokes and then jammed in your front fork. Launching you over the handlebars. Don't ask me how I learned this.Never thought about the potential for such a collision. I'd say that just like with traffic, being predictable would be a benefit. I'm sure the squirrel isn't interested in being run over by (or caught in the spokes of) a bike; so a sudden swerve when you are close to the squirrel seems as likely as not to cross the path it decides to take to evade.
Give them wide berth. Squirrels are just about the perfect size to get stuck in your spokes and then jammed in your front fork. Launching you over the handlebars. Don't ask me how I learned this.Never thought about the potential for such a collision. I'd say that just like with traffic, being predictable would be a benefit. I'm sure the squirrel isn't interested in being run over by (or caught in the spokes of) a bike; so a sudden swerve when you are close to the squirrel seems as likely as not to cross the path it decides to take to evade.
Give them wide berth. Squirrels are just about the perfect size to get stuck in your spokes and then jammed in your front fork. Launching you over the handlebars. Don't ask me how I learned this.If you have bladed spokes you could sharpen them. Slight weight reduction, uncoated steel would rust though... you'd go through the wind and squirrels a easier. Slice vegetables with your wheels at home or on the road?
Accrued enough Amazon points to get that TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter. It's a pretty neat tool, even if it isn't super precise. Good to know my spoke tension is balanced along with my wheels being true. Not sure what to save up for next... WAG-4? DAG-2.2? I like being my own bike mechanic. Seems like a worthy thing to fund.
Other specialty tools I'd recommend:
Spin Doctor Truing Stand
CN-10 Cable and housing cutter
Harbor Freight 1/4in drive Torque Wrench (only think that stinks is converting from Nm to in-lbs)
Does anybody else do 25+ mile commutes? What's your setup look like? What's your average time? How long is your workday?
I'm at a 40% for biking to work in my first week. I usually feel genuinely upbeat at the end of the commute, but I can't quite convince myself of that immediately BEFORE the commute, when I'm sleepy and chilly. I suspect this has to do with biking still not truly being a habit for me, since I'm still trying to rationalize my way out of it - and since I do have a backup option that means I'm never FORCED to bike. (That backup option often lengthens Boyfriend's commute, though, so it's not exactly fair to rely on it often.)
I missed the first two days of this week cause I didn't want to bike with cramps, so at least that should be solved next week. Not sure if the weather* will hold, though.
Does anybody else do 25+ mile commutes? What's your setup look like? What's your average time? How long is your workday?
My commute is not that far, but it's pretty far. It's about a 32 mile round trip. I try to do it 2-3 times a week once the weather is nicer and it can definitely be draining. I am also single, so the time commitment isn't an issue. I couldn't imagine trying to do this with a family.
I think your best bet would be to drive part way and bike commute the rest. Slowly stretch out the bike miles until you find your sweet spot.
Yesterday, rode in Chicago weather, 16F, equal to about -9C, which would be a new low for me.
It was clear, but just cold.
Today was only my 3rd day biking in 2019, mainly due to snow rather than cold. Also had a few airports trips around work I had to make.
There are 251 working days for me in 2019, not counting vacation days. My goal is 200/251 days biked for 2019. I will remove 1 day from both numerator and denominator for each vacation day I take.
So far I'm only 3/8 after two weeks.
On that note, has anyone put their teen on an ebike? Any problems with them riding dangerously?Some teens are much more likely to do dangerous things than others. Does your daughter ride a regular bike responsibly? Has she learned to anticipate and mitigate potential hazards as she rides (becomes more important at higher speeds)? If you're satisfied that she knows how to handle herself on an ordinary bicycle, there is little chance that adding a moderate electric assist will change her basic skills and approach to riding. For a child, I'd favor pedal assist with moderate limits to power and speed.
It might be worth it for stickman to check into an e-bike, but I already have two very nice road bikes and I like the exercise, so I'm sticking with my long commute on a regular bike. I actually enjoy myself most of the time! :)
What is different about a winter bike versus a summer bike?
That was probably a naive Californian-type question. ;)
What is different about a winter bike versus a summer bike?
That was probably a naive Californian-type question. ;)
Why would you want little tread on the tires of a winter bike?
We also have a number of shops that do winter maintenance plans - a subscription service where they'll maintain your drivetrain and check shifting, brakes etc as often as you want, which I did my first year biking to work (two years ago).Sounds like a way for shops to keep busy during the off (for many) season.
The train I take to work just added a station 4 miles from my house, so I can start biking. I am going to an ebike shop next weekend to test one out.
My main concern is the bike being stolen from out front of my downtown office building. People have cut my chains and stolen nice bikes twice in my life (I've also had two vehicles broken into, so I may just have bad luck), so I'm nervous about having nice things.
I live in a very hilly area, and my bike is a single speed. I don't mind the workout, but I sweat very easily, which won't work in an office environment. However, since I don't want to blow $1k on an ebike without even checking to see if my current road bike will work, I will try it a couple times first. Google Maps does put it at a 20 minute ride, which is only a couple minutes more than what my previous driving time was at the old station.
The train I take to work just added a station 4 miles from my house, so I can start biking. I am going to an ebike shop next weekend to test one out.
My main concern is the bike being stolen from out front of my downtown office building. People have cut my chains and stolen nice bikes twice in my life (I've also had two vehicles broken into, so I may just have bad luck), so I'm nervous about having nice things.
The train I take to work just added a station 4 miles from my house, so I can start biking. I am going to an ebike shop next weekend to test one out.
My main concern is the bike being stolen from out front of my downtown office building. People have cut my chains and stolen nice bikes twice in my life (I've also had two vehicles broken into, so I may just have bad luck), so I'm nervous about having nice things.
Making your bike harder to steal than average is your best protection. Invest in a heavy U-lock and cable at minimum. Leave the lock/cable attached to the stand at work so you're not hefting it around all the time because if it's heavy enough to be . Ensure that the front wheel, rear wheel, and frame are all secured soundly.
The train I take to work just added a station 4 miles from my house, so I can start biking. I am going to an ebike shop next weekend to test one out.
My main concern is the bike being stolen from out front of my downtown office building. People have cut my chains and stolen nice bikes twice in my life (I've also had two vehicles broken into, so I may just have bad luck), so I'm nervous about having nice things.
Making your bike harder to steal than average is your best protection. Invest in a heavy U-lock and cable at minimum. Leave the lock/cable attached to the stand at work so you're not hefting it around all the time because if it's heavy enough to be . Ensure that the front wheel, rear wheel, and frame are all secured soundly.
I've got #1 down and I will invest in a cable lock to achieve #2 as well. I have to lock my bike at home as well as at work, though, so I do tote it around everywhere.
So far I've lost small accessories (lights I forgot to remove) to thieves, but nothing over $20 in value.
The train I take to work just added a station 4 miles from my house, so I can start biking. I am going to an ebike shop next weekend to test one out.
My main concern is the bike being stolen from out front of my downtown office building. People have cut my chains and stolen nice bikes twice in my life (I've also had two vehicles broken into, so I may just have bad luck), so I'm nervous about having nice things.
Making your bike harder to steal than average is your best protection. Invest in a heavy U-lock and cable at minimum. Leave the lock/cable attached to the stand at work so you're not hefting it around all the time because if it's heavy enough to be . Ensure that the front wheel, rear wheel, and frame are all secured soundly.
I've got #1 down and I will invest in a cable lock to achieve #2 as well. I have to lock my bike at home as well as at work, though, so I do tote it around everywhere.
So far I've lost small accessories (lights I forgot to remove) to thieves, but nothing over $20 in value.
My current bike does look a little older, and Nashville seems to have a lot less stealing than west Texas had. Btw, here is the bike
https://imgur.com/6ODriwy
My current bike does look a little older, and Nashville seems to have a lot less stealing than west Texas had. Btw, here is the bikeLooks like you customized it nicely for yourself though. I was looking at the bars and downtube wondering how you shift, then I saw the rear wheel. Nifty fixie.
https://imgur.com/6ODriwy
Indoor trainers are also inherently less comfortable than cycling outdoors. :P
I'm happy for 4-5 hours riding outside, but much over an hour on an indoor trainer is quite literally a pain in the ass. I think that the leaning and changes in elevation of the front end from riding outside spreads around the pressure much better.
Indoor trainers are also inherently less comfortable than cycling outdoors. :P
I'm happy for 4-5 hours riding outside, but much over an hour on an indoor trainer is quite literally a pain in the ass. I think that the leaning and changes in elevation of the front end from riding outside spreads around the pressure much better.
This has been my experience as well. My wife is always saying "You have a trainer, just ride inside!" But it's not the same... not at all.
Am I the only person here who has never worn a helmet on a bicycle? I've been hit by a car twice and wrecked countless times, and I can't think of a time when a helmet would have made any difference.
Indoor trainers are also inherently less comfortable than cycling outdoors. :P
I'm happy for 4-5 hours riding outside, but much over an hour on an indoor trainer is quite literally a pain in the ass. I think that the leaning and changes in elevation of the front end from riding outside spreads around the pressure much better.
This has been my experience as well. My wife is always saying "You have a trainer, just ride inside!" But it's not the same... not at all.
I'll third. I'll take shitty weather over the dullness that is a trainer any day. Much of the joy of biking is in the actual movement and traveling, neither of which you can get inside.
Am I the only person here who has never worn a helmet on a bicycle? I've been hit by a car twice and wrecked countless times, and I can't think of a time when a helmet would have made any difference.
I know I'm in a minority on this, but I quite like the turbo trainer. It's not as pleasant as an outdoor ride, but an hour on the turbo is worth ninety minutes at least on the road. No freewheeling, no stopping at lights and junctions, and I can go absolutely flat out without worrying about my surroundings.
It's very good for sustained threshold interval type efforts. I do believe that it's more time efficient (although much less fun) than riding on the road too. It's awful for standing and sprinting efforts though, because you can't throw your bike from side to side. Trying to do standing at all kinda feels weird on a trainer.
I'm a fan of sufferfest.
I live in a very hilly area, and my bike is a single speed. I don't mind the workout, but I sweat very easily, which won't work in an office environment. However, since I don't want to blow $1k on an ebike without even checking to see if my current road bike will work, I will try it a couple times first. Google Maps does put it at a 20 minute ride, which is only a couple minutes more than what my previous driving time was at the old station.
Single speed in a hilly area? Definitely due for an upgrade. In all Mustachian seriousness. I bought my road bike from Nashbar for about $200 several years ago, and it has served me very well. It doesn't look like Nashbar still sells Nashbar branded road bikes, and the ones they have (Fuji) are more expensive these days ($350 for what looks like the exact bike I bought five years ago). Of course, you could always go Craigslist but that can be a crapshoot if you don't know bikes too well.
Given the hilliness in your area, four miles might make sense for an electric. Don't want to get too sweaty before work.
I gave it a dry run today, and I don’t think I’ll be able to use this bike to get to work, at least not until I am in much better shape. Total elevation for the ride was only 138 feet, but the two hills I faced on the ride completely destroyed me.
Also, I was freezing cold (temp is right at freezing) but still sweating through my clothes. I’m just going to have to do it on weekends until I am in better shape and can get a better bike for the ride.
Question about headlights...
My Cygolite Metro 400 seems to have crapped out after just 14 months of use. It says it's charged but then dies within 3 minutes of use.
Are these only supposed to last a certain number of charges? It's difficult to find this information, but I've heard 30 charges thrown around on another forum.
I guess my question is... Are they all going to die after 1-2 years of use? And should I purchase a light from a LBS instead of Amazon? I need one to safely ride into work tomorrow morning.
Question about headlights...
My Cygolite Metro 400 seems to have crapped out after just 14 months of use. It says it's charged but then dies within 3 minutes of use.
Are these only supposed to last a certain number of charges? It's difficult to find this information, but I've heard 30 charges thrown around on another forum.
I guess my question is... Are they all going to die after 1-2 years of use? And should I purchase a light from a LBS instead of Amazon? I need one to safely ride into work tomorrow morning.
It's always a good idea to support your LBS, but the one near me doesn't carry the lights I want for riding in to work.
For longevity I kinda feel like lights that use regular batteries are going to be best. I've got a couple Planet Bike Superflash Turbo taillights that take regular AAA batteries and have been in regular usage for about five years now with no issue. My old Planet Bike Blaze that takes AA batteries has been around for about the same time and still works well. I've been less successful with USB charging stuff . . . it seems like these special lithium batteries do have a limited shelf life and it's often hard to find replacements for them if they're replaceable at all. This is a shame as it's getting a bit harder to find good bike lights that use regular batteries.
It's always a good idea to support your LBS, but the one near me doesn't carry the lights I want for riding in to work.I like regular AA (or AAA) battery lights too. I run them on NiMH rechargeable cells. I bought a NiteRider MAKO mini and a larger MAKO (don't remember which one) at a LBS a few years back (only AA lights they had available). Currently using the mini because the larger one crapped out on me. I'm considering getting a MAKO 250 or a Planet Bike Blaze 140 SL. I'm also considering a AA (prefer AA because I have many AA NiMH cells on hand but have few spare AAA cells) rear light to mount on my rack - Planet Bike Grateful Red or Serfas Red Stop Sign Light.
For longevity I kinda feel like lights that use regular batteries are going to be best. I've got a couple Planet Bike Superflash Turbo taillights that take regular AAA batteries and have been in regular usage for about five years now with no issue. My old Planet Bike Blaze that takes AA batteries has been around for about the same time and still works well. I've been less successful with USB charging stuff . . . it seems like these special lithium batteries do have a limited shelf life and it's often hard to find replacements for them if they're replaceable at all. This is a shame as it's getting a bit harder to find good bike lights that use regular batteries.
It's always a good idea to support your LBS, but the one near me doesn't carry the lights I want for riding in to work.I like regular AA (or AAA) battery lights too. I run them on NiMH rechargeable cells. I bought a NiteRider MAKO mini and a larger MAKO (don't remember which one) at a LBS a few years back (only AA lights they had available). Currently using the mini because the larger one crapped out on me. I'm considering getting a MAKO 250 or a Planet Bike Blaze 140 SL. I'm also considering a AA (prefer AA because I have many AA NiMH cells on hand but have few spare AAA cells) rear light to mount on my rack - Planet Bike Grateful Red or Serfas Red Stop Sign Light.
For longevity I kinda feel like lights that use regular batteries are going to be best. I've got a couple Planet Bike Superflash Turbo taillights that take regular AAA batteries and have been in regular usage for about five years now with no issue. My old Planet Bike Blaze that takes AA batteries has been around for about the same time and still works well. I've been less successful with USB charging stuff . . . it seems like these special lithium batteries do have a limited shelf life and it's often hard to find replacements for them if they're replaceable at all. This is a shame as it's getting a bit harder to find good bike lights that use regular batteries.
I've lost my front tube, three times in the past four months, to a tear near the valve of the tube. I'm keeping my tires properly inflated. Any tips on identifying the problem so that I can replace fewer tubes?Tear at the base of the valve stem usually happens from the valve not being straight through the hole (which is usually because the wheel was ridden on with pressure too low). GS's tips are more for finding the subtle puncture points that might cause a leak slow enough that you might not notice right away. If you've had slow leaks that you keep topping up, but don't straighten the stem if needed when you top up the tire, you could have this problem, but I'd think you'd know what was causing the tear in that situation. If using Presta valves, are you tightening the nut on the valve stem too tight (should just be snug - especially on double wall rims)? I'd also check for the hole in the rim having sharp edges. If you can't identify and problems with your wheel, try stepping up the quality of the tubes you buy - perhaps the brand you're using is not as strong at the stem as it should be.
Still cheaper than gas, I suppose...
If you can't identify and problems with your wheel, try stepping up the quality of the tubes you buy - perhaps the brand you're using is not as strong at the stem as it should be.
It's always a good idea to support your LBS, but the one near me doesn't carry the lights I want for riding in to work.I like regular AA (or AAA) battery lights too. I run them on NiMH rechargeable cells. I bought a NiteRider MAKO mini and a larger MAKO (don't remember which one) at a LBS a few years back (only AA lights they had available). Currently using the mini because the larger one crapped out on me. I'm considering getting a MAKO 250 or a Planet Bike Blaze 140 SL. I'm also considering a AA (prefer AA because I have many AA NiMH cells on hand but have few spare AAA cells) rear light to mount on my rack - Planet Bike Grateful Red or Serfas Red Stop Sign Light.
For longevity I kinda feel like lights that use regular batteries are going to be best. I've got a couple Planet Bike Superflash Turbo taillights that take regular AAA batteries and have been in regular usage for about five years now with no issue. My old Planet Bike Blaze that takes AA batteries has been around for about the same time and still works well. I've been less successful with USB charging stuff . . . it seems like these special lithium batteries do have a limited shelf life and it's often hard to find replacements for them if they're replaceable at all. This is a shame as it's getting a bit harder to find good bike lights that use regular batteries.
Yep, I run all of mine on rechargeable batteries too. No need to reinvent the wheel bike light manufacturers . . . AA and AAA are easily available and work great!
I've lost my front tube, three times in the past four months, to a tear near the valve of the tube. I'm keeping my tires properly inflated. Any tips on identifying the problem so that I can replace fewer tubes?
Still cheaper than gas, I suppose...
It's always a good idea to support your LBS, but the one near me doesn't carry the lights I want for riding in to work.I like regular AA (or AAA) battery lights too. I run them on NiMH rechargeable cells. I bought a NiteRider MAKO mini and a larger MAKO (don't remember which one) at a LBS a few years back (only AA lights they had available). Currently using the mini because the larger one crapped out on me. I'm considering getting a MAKO 250 or a Planet Bike Blaze 140 SL. I'm also considering a AA (prefer AA because I have many AA NiMH cells on hand but have few spare AAA cells) rear light to mount on my rack - Planet Bike Grateful Red or Serfas Red Stop Sign Light.
For longevity I kinda feel like lights that use regular batteries are going to be best. I've got a couple Planet Bike Superflash Turbo taillights that take regular AAA batteries and have been in regular usage for about five years now with no issue. My old Planet Bike Blaze that takes AA batteries has been around for about the same time and still works well. I've been less successful with USB charging stuff . . . it seems like these special lithium batteries do have a limited shelf life and it's often hard to find replacements for them if they're replaceable at all. This is a shame as it's getting a bit harder to find good bike lights that use regular batteries.
Yep, I run all of mine on rechargeable batteries too. No need to reinvent the wheel bike light manufacturers . . . AA and AAA are easily available and work great!
That's interesting to see so many people here in support of batteries. I've never had much success with rechargeable batteries, but obviously that would be the way to go with anything battery powered. I don't even own anything battery powered with traditional batteries, that is.
How long do these lights last before you have to replace the batteries? My USB charge-lights are pretty low.. Like 1.5 hours if they're on the brightest setting. 8+ hours if they're blinking.
Yes, blinking "be seen" lights should last a long time. What about headlights for actually seeing?How long do these lights last before you have to replace the batteries? My USB charge-lights are pretty low.. Like 1.5 hours if they're on the brightest setting. 8+ hours if they're blinking.
My superflash turbos run 2 AAA batteries each and lasts 50-80 hrs in blinking mode (cold weather seems to drain batteries sooner). I recharge the batteries every month or so.
Yes, blinking "be seen" lights should last a long time. What about headlights for actually seeing?How long do these lights last before you have to replace the batteries? My USB charge-lights are pretty low.. Like 1.5 hours if they're on the brightest setting. 8+ hours if they're blinking.
My superflash turbos run 2 AAA batteries each and lasts 50-80 hrs in blinking mode (cold weather seems to drain batteries sooner). I recharge the batteries every month or so.
NiteRider Mako 250 (brightest AA battery light I can find) has a rated run time of 7 hours on alkaline batteries on the brightest setting (probably closer to 5 hours on NiMH). Many USB charged lights are brighter but have shorter run times. One great thing about using AA rechargeable batteries is that spare batteries are cheap (~2 USD per cell) and easy to pack.
Question about headlights...
My Cygolite Metro 400 seems to have crapped out after just 14 months of use. It says it's charged but then dies within 3 minutes of use.
Are these only supposed to last a certain number of charges? It's difficult to find this information, but I've heard 30 charges thrown around on another forum.
I guess my question is... Are they all going to die after 1-2 years of use? And should I purchase a light from a LBS instead of Amazon? I need one to safely ride into work tomorrow morning.
does anyone here commute on a fixie ?
does anyone here commute on a fixie ?
No, but after the last half-hour of readjusting limit screws to properly index my gearing I can certainly see the appeal!
I'm imminently planning on buying a bag that will clip to my bike rack so I don't have to deal with a bungee net 4x per day. Anything I should consider beforehand?
Here's what I'm looking at - I already have the same-brand rack so I picked this for compatibility: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72 (https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72)
I'm imminently planning on buying a bag that will clip to my bike rack so I don't have to deal with a bungee net 4x per day. Anything I should consider beforehand?
Here's what I'm looking at - I already have the same-brand rack so I picked this for compatibility: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72 (https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72)
I'm imminently planning on buying a bag that will clip to my bike rack so I don't have to deal with a bungee net 4x per day. Anything I should consider beforehand?
Here's what I'm looking at - I already have the same-brand rack so I picked this for compatibility: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72 (https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Weather-Pannier/dp/B00A6H2YNI?pd_rd_wg=as2wZ&pd_rd_r=2e497b04-5b6b-4e6a-b356-1643544f740c&pd_rd_w=moY4E&ref_=pd_gw_simh&pf_rd_r=MMK3HSFQ60VA4FVASKJT&pf_rd_p=5bb8abce-4b41-53f0-b785-c7d6b87a6b72)
H/L screw adjustment:First make sure your derailleur hanger is properly aligned. I used to have terrible trouble trying to get my rear derailleur to shift accurately. I bought this alignment tool (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/x-tools-pro-gear-hanger-alignment-tool/rp-prod122319) and spent some time zeroing in on getting my hanger perfectly parallel to the wheel. After alignment adjusting as GuitarStv suggests was a breeze. Absolutely perfect shifting since.
Grab your derailleur cable and pull it by hand until the derailleur has reached the furthest it will go. Then adjust the L (L for light gear) screw so that the derailleur jockey wheel is lined up directly below the cog at this point. Unbolt the derailleur cable and adjust the H (H for hard gear) screw so that the derailleur jockey wheel is lined up below the cog. Then bolt your cable back on (pull it tight enough that there's no slack, but not so tight that the derailleur moves from the smallest to second smallest cog) and pretty much never touch the screws again.
Indexing:
Shift to the second hardest gear. Then shift to the third hardest gear. If it doesn't shift easily, tighten the barrel adjuster until it does. If it shifts too easily, loosen the barrel adjuster. Once you can go from 2nd to third hardest and back smoothly, go up and down the cassette a couple times and make a one or two notch adjustment if necessary, but it should be pretty close to perfect.
It used to take me forever, but after discovering the above method I can usually re-index after replacing a cable in less that 5 minutes.
Waterproof is nice (you just have to be really careful not to accidentally let wet stuff drip into a waterproof bag because they'll start to smell funky really quickly), but honestly I'm fine with non-waterproof too . . . just wrap anything you don't want to get wet in a plastic grocery bag and it'll be fine.I carry drinking water to work to avoid nasty tap water there. Water bottles for work are in same bag as work clothes. One day a lid was loose on one of my bottles - spilled about 8 oz of water. Clothes in plastic bag were fine. If my bag was waterproof it might have caused a problem.
Totally bummed out right now. Sent my e-bike (the rear wheel, anyway) in for warranty repair on the motor, and just received it last night after a 3-week car clowning wait. Unfortunately, I accidentally trashed the cadence and torque sensors when putting the bike back together.Could you still ride with the broken sensors or do they control functions of the bike?
The manufacturer is terrible with communication, so it's not even clear that they did repair my existing motor problem; everything pretty much looks as it did before I sent it in. I could be selling them short, as I haven't yet reproduced the problem, which was intermittent and will be difficult to reproduce without functional pedal assist.
Throwing a flier out to see if they'll replace my sensors under warranty, but it's doubtful. Now need to wait even longer to ride. $200 to replace the sensors if they won't cover it, and potentially another fight and long wait if they didn't fix anything with the motor. Argh!
Totally bummed out right now. Sent my e-bike (the rear wheel, anyway) in for warranty repair on the motor, and just received it last night after a 3-week car clowning wait. Unfortunately, I accidentally trashed the cadence and torque sensors when putting the bike back together.
The manufacturer is terrible with communication, so it's not even clear that they did repair my existing motor problem; everything pretty much looks as it did before I sent it in. I could be selling them short, as I haven't yet reproduced the problem, which was intermittent and will be difficult to reproduce without functional pedal assist.
Throwing a flier out to see if they'll replace my sensors under warranty, but it's doubtful. Now need to wait even longer to ride. $200 to replace the sensors if they won't cover it, and potentially another fight and long wait if they didn't fix anything with the motor. Argh!
Seems bikes break a lot from reading around and what a pain to fix them yourself and deal with internet companies!
Could you still ride with the broken sensors or do they control functions of the bike?
If your throttle controller is sensitive enough, you could use throttle while pedaling to recreate the pedal assist. I'm sure it would take much practice to get the balance between your pedaling and throttle just right (unlike the intuitive automatic pedal assist). Still, I'd be inclined to do it while waiting to here back if the sensors will be covered by warranty / waiting for parts.Could you still ride with the broken sensors or do they control functions of the bike?
I can ride, but not with pedal assist - these sensors tell the motor controller when to kick on and how much power to provide. That means I get a choice of throttle only, or pedals with zero assist. The former option is something I would prefer to do only in a pinch, as it somewhat defeats the purpose of biking; I never ride that way normally. The latter option might sound okay, but then you're riding a super-heavy bike with gearing not equipped to handle that mode. Gun to my head, either would work, but neither is a way I'm inclined to commute with.
I know I way overpaid for my Trek, but it is very nice having a Trek store right next to the house with lots of good and helpful people working there. Seems bikes break a lot from reading around and what a pain to fix them yourself and deal with internet companies!You're right that bikes require maintenance - much more frequent than a car miles wise, but not that much different in terms of time in use. A well maintained bike rarely has any issues other than a puncture flat from road debris - this is much more rare for cars because they have much thicker tires. Maintenance intervals on the exposed chain are higher than you would use for the transmission of a car, but most other moving parts on a bike need no more frequent (time not miles wise) maintenance. Bike tires need replacing more frequently because they are thinner and have less surface contact (even after adjusting for weight - I run my bike tires 2-3x the pressure of my car tires).
You'll find that there are particular road surfaces that you've got to be really careful around when it's wet. Any of those big metal plates/grates/manhole covers should be regarded with suspicion. Be careful if you find yourself on the white lines too, they can get crazy slippery when wet.
You'll find that there are particular road surfaces that you've got to be really careful around when it's wet. Any of those big metal plates/grates/manhole covers should be regarded with suspicion. Be careful if you find yourself on the white lines too, they can get crazy slippery when wet.I do avoid those already, but I guess the exposed pebble concrete sidewalk is rare enough that I hadn’t thought about it before.
You'll find that there are particular road surfaces that you've got to be really careful around when it's wet. Any of those big metal plates/grates/manhole covers should be regarded with suspicion. Be careful if you find yourself on the white lines too, they can get crazy slippery when wet.I do avoid those already, but I guess the exposed pebble concrete sidewalk is rare enough that I hadn’t thought about it before.
Boo on indoor tiles being used on bridges!
Oh wow. I hope you have recovered by now. Whiplash somehow isn’t something I expect on a bike.
EekOh wow. I hope you have recovered by now. Whiplash somehow isn’t something I expect on a bike.
LOL, it was a few years ago, so I've been fine for quite a while now. I was surprised by how much pain I was in 2 days after the fall. Turns out whiplash is caused by sudden deceleration. Like when your body flies through the air and then comes to an abrupt stop when it smashes into the pavement ;-)
Finally have my bike back! Missed a whole month of bike commuting while it wasgetting repairedbeing worked on unsuccessfully. Of course, my first week after having my bike back, I was out of town traveling, so it'll end up being a five week break. I'm ready to get back on the wagon.
Edit: ARGH! The bike isn't fixed - problem with the motor still exists. I might try to ride it this week, but the saga continues...
Finally have my bike back! Missed a whole month of bike commuting while it wasgetting repairedbeing worked on unsuccessfully. Of course, my first week after having my bike back, I was out of town traveling, so it'll end up being a five week break. I'm ready to get back on the wagon.
Edit: ARGH! The bike isn't fixed - problem with the motor still exists. I might try to ride it this week, but the saga continues...
Oh no! What a pain! Fingers crossed you get this sorted pronto. Service would be much better if they understood that this is a primary source of transport for some folks! Can you imagine waiting a month for a car to be repaired!?
Achievement unlocked: I biked home in a light rain yesterday. (After specifically planning around the forecast to avoid that outcome.) My leggings got wet, but my second layer on top stayed dry. Are there any tricks regarding raindrops on glasses? The best I could do was just keep my head down.
Also, a confession. There is one hill on my ride home that I have been riding up the sidewalk. I know I shouldn't, but the sidewalk is double-wide, and there's no bike lane on the road plus a bunch of parked cars, and I hold up traffic whenever I struggle up the hill as fast as possible in the road. It's a much less intense hill at my own pace...
Achievement unlocked: I biked home in a light rain yesterday. (After specifically planning around the forecast to avoid that outcome.) My leggings got wet, but my second layer on top stayed dry. Are there any tricks regarding raindrops on glasses? The best I could do was just keep my head down.
Also, a confession. There is one hill on my ride home that I have been riding up the sidewalk. I know I shouldn't, but the sidewalk is double-wide, and there's no bike lane on the road plus a bunch of parked cars, and I hold up traffic whenever I struggle up the hill as fast as possible in the road. It's a much less intense hill at my own pace...
Achievement unlocked: I biked home in a light rain yesterday. (After specifically planning around the forecast to avoid that outcome.) My leggings got wet, but my second layer on top stayed dry. Are there any tricks regarding raindrops on glasses? The best I could do was just keep my head down.
Cycling cap under helmet is essential rain equipment. It works pretty well to keep spray off your lenses, and keeps your head a bit warmer.
Achievement unlocked: I biked home in a light rain yesterday. (After specifically planning around the forecast to avoid that outcome.) My leggings got wet, but my second layer on top stayed dry. Are there any tricks regarding raindrops on glasses? The best I could do was just keep my head down.GCN showed some crazy hydrophobic treatment for glasses (video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBOP61tDUGE
Also, a confession. There is one hill on my ride home that I have been riding up the sidewalk. I know I shouldn't, but the sidewalk is double-wide, and there's no bike lane on the road plus a bunch of parked cars, and I hold up traffic whenever I struggle up the hill as fast as possible in the road. It's a much less intense hill at my own pace...
I am switching from e-bike to regular bike soon. Bike gateway drug indeed. I put 4400 miles on my e-bike the past 16 months. Year round commuting in central NJ.
I will admit though, I am moving to a place that is less hilly, has great weather, and I won't need to commute for work. So my overall bike mileage will drop so maybe not quite as badass as riding an ebike in shitty winter weather.
I had my first above zero degree bike ride of the year. It was truly a treat!
I had my first above zero degree bike ride of the year. It was truly a treat!
Nice! Weather looks great here today! High of 63F (17C).
I’ll be able to go out in about 3 hours.
Maybe I'll see if my library has "Biking [or bike maintenance] for Dummies].The "for Dummies" series does have "Bike Repair & Maintenance". Best seller on Amazon is Zinn and the Art of (Road/Mountain) Bike Maintenance. Also high on the list is Just Ride: A Radically Practical Guide to Riding Your Bike. I have Anybody's Bike Book, but it's dated (disc breaks weren't a thing on bikes when my copy was published). Now I mostly use https://www.sheldonbrown.com/ (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/) for bike maintenance reference.
This thread is intimidating the shit about me. I'm someone who hates being ignorant and Not Knowing Things, and this is making me feel like I'm way to fucking stupid about bikes to be a bike rider after all.
Other than knowing how to ride a bike and knowing that the bike I have is uncomfortable and too big, I know fuck-all about bikes, I guess.
Maybe I'll see if my library has "Biking [or bike maintenance] for Dummies].
I'm only looking for this to run local-ish errands, or at least that's the need unless and until I find a job. But none the less, reading about chain thingamajigs and degreasing and whatnots is overwhelming.
If it makes you feel better, I learned to maintain my bike by first neglecting my bike for a few years . . . then trying to fix all the annoying issues that started to come up. Bikes are pretty tough mechanical devices.
:P
If it makes you feel better, I learned to maintain my bike by first neglecting my bike for a few years . . . then trying to fix all the annoying issues that started to come up. Bikes are pretty tough mechanical devices.
:P
If it makes you feel better, I learned to maintain my bike by first neglecting my bike for a few years . . . then trying to fix all the annoying issues that started to come up. Bikes are pretty tough mechanical devices.
:P
Actually, it makes me feel *MUCH* better. Thanks. Would you say that beyond fixing obvious things (flat tire, broken chain) as they come up, taking in the bike once a year for maintenance is more or less good enough as a basic preventative strategy? Twice a year? Something else?
And maybe someone could give a list of the very basic things they think a newb should do? Like that once a year maintenance at a shop (anything specific to ask for, or just a tune up"?), plus greasing the chain (which I could then google to learn as I'm sure that's pretty basic) and...?
This isn't to keep it perfect forever, or what is ideal. Just a baseline. Like oil changes on cars and doing the 30k/60k/etc. tune ups on a car.
Alright, so does anybody have a recommended brand for chain lube? I have been neglecting it due to riding in sunny SoCal - no salt or slush! - but this discussion of the bare minimum maintenance has convinced me to pay more attention.TriFlow is pretty easy to find. It's not specifically a bike chain lubricant, but lots of people use it and you can apply it to other moving components, pivot points, etc.
Well, it finally happened - my first flat. I was considering myself lucky to avoid any thus far (2100 miles of high speed e-biking), but I discovered it while rolling up to work. Rear wheel flat, which is a challenge on a hub-mounted motor e-bike. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do about it, lacking the tools at work to remove the wheel, but I was able to find the offending shard of glass and patch up the tube. At least I think so - we'll see if the pressure holds! If not, an emergency SOS to my wife might be in order to cart me and the bike home.If you have a sink somewhere at work maybe you could put your tube under some water to look for bubbles. Good luck.
I'm under the impression that the tube was patched with the wheel remaining on the frame - thus getting it to a sink to check for bubbles would be extremely difficult.Well, it finally happened - my first flat. I was considering myself lucky to avoid any thus far (2100 miles of high speed e-biking), but I discovered it while rolling up to work. Rear wheel flat, which is a challenge on a hub-mounted motor e-bike. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do about it, lacking the tools at work to remove the wheel, but I was able to find the offending shard of glass and patch up the tube. At least I think so - we'll see if the pressure holds! If not, an emergency SOS to my wife might be in order to cart me and the bike home.If you have a sink somewhere at work maybe you could put your tube under some water to look for bubbles. Good luck.
It would make for a cool photo and give co-workers something to talk about for a while... "Anyone else see that e-bike in the men's room toilet? That had to be extremely difficult to pass..."I'm under the impression that the tube was patched with the wheel remaining on the frame - thus getting it to a sink to check for bubbles would be extremely difficult.Well, it finally happened - my first flat. I was considering myself lucky to avoid any thus far (2100 miles of high speed e-biking), but I discovered it while rolling up to work. Rear wheel flat, which is a challenge on a hub-mounted motor e-bike. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do about it, lacking the tools at work to remove the wheel, but I was able to find the offending shard of glass and patch up the tube. At least I think so - we'll see if the pressure holds! If not, an emergency SOS to my wife might be in order to cart me and the bike home.If you have a sink somewhere at work maybe you could put your tube under some water to look for bubbles. Good luck.
I'm under the impression that the tube was patched with the wheel remaining on the frame - thus getting it to a sink to check for bubbles would be extremely difficult.Well, it finally happened - my first flat. I was considering myself lucky to avoid any thus far (2100 miles of high speed e-biking), but I discovered it while rolling up to work. Rear wheel flat, which is a challenge on a hub-mounted motor e-bike. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do about it, lacking the tools at work to remove the wheel, but I was able to find the offending shard of glass and patch up the tube. At least I think so - we'll see if the pressure holds! If not, an emergency SOS to my wife might be in order to cart me and the bike home.If you have a sink somewhere at work maybe you could put your tube under some water to look for bubbles. Good luck.
Alright, so does anybody have a recommended brand for chain lube? I have been neglecting it due to riding in sunny SoCal - no salt or slush! - but this discussion of the bare minimum maintenance has convinced me to pay more attention.
That said, you should be able to pick any bike specific lube that kinda sounds like it's made for the conditions you ride in. A 10$ bottle will probably last you a couple years, and any lube is better than no lube.Yes, any lube is better than no lube, but adding lube to a new chain that doesn't need it yet can be worse than doing nothing because it can dilute the higher quality lube the chain came with and transport dirt from the outside of the chain to the inside.
That said, you should be able to pick any bike specific lube that kinda sounds like it's made for the conditions you ride in. A 10$ bottle will probably last you a couple years, and any lube is better than no lube.Yes, any lube is better than no lube, but adding lube to a new chain that doesn't need it yet can be worse than doing nothing because it can dilute the higher quality lube the chain came with and transport dirt from the outside of the chain to the inside.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory)
But I'm also weird and am considering dedicating a small crockpot for melting paraffin wax for my chains for this summer. :PI'm a fair weather cyclist (don't wet rides due to: lack of fenders, difficult to retrofit bike (mid 90's hard tail mountain bike frame - fork doesn't provide mounting options), live in climate where that only takes 30-60 days off the cycling calendar). I replaced my gears and chain last fall. I bought 3 chains with the intent to rotate them regularly and replace all the gears again when all the chains are worn. I'm a bit overdue to swap in the last chain (will probably get to it Saturday), so I haven't put any new lube on these chains yet (still just factory lube). I agree that it is sticky and dirty on the outside, but I hope that the dirt hasn't migrated to the inside. As I have three chains in rotation, I'd be renewing 2 chains at a time about twice a year. Rather than a crock pot, I've been thinking about a portable induction burner (useful for other needs) and dedicating an old pot to chain maintenance.
I'm back, baby! My e-bike has been acting up since late January, out of commission from early Feb-early March, and back in its sub-optimal state for the last two weeks (repairs/maintenance done by manufacturer did not fix the problem). I finally was able to get the manufacturer to relent and do a full replacement of the suspect components (mainly the motor, though they also replaced the electrical controller). I did ride all of last week and Monday of this week, but now the hardware is replaced and everything is good as new! I feel like I'm flying again.
One thing to note from my extended time 'off': I started to get used to car commuting again. I can see how it's easy to fall back into that pattern, as it can simplify things - don't need to worry about the weather, don't need to pack clothes, commute is shorter on the way in, etc. Sure, bike commuting saves money, allows for 'free' exercise, saves the environment, but I was forgetting about the best part about bike commuting - it's fun and improves my mood!
Of course automobiles can be struck by lightning. But the lighting that strikes an automobile is far less likely to pass through a passenger than lighting that strikes someone riding a bike or walking around.I've ridden in many lightning storms, and don't consider being struck by lightning to be a significant concern. I also walk around outside when there's lightning too . . . and figure you have similar odds either way.I haven't posted here in a WHILE because I'm still working up the courage to ride more than on occasion, but I'd like to note that my automobile was struck when I was in high school.
Your main danger is that it's windy and rainy when there's lightning. Your bike will take longer to stop, you won't be able to corner as well, and wind kinda pushes you around a fair bit.
So... regardless of what mode of transportation, there's some level of risk and probably no more or less on a bike.
Happy riding y'all!
Achievement unlocked: I biked home in a light rain yesterday. (After specifically planning around the forecast to avoid that outcome.) My leggings got wet, but my second layer on top stayed dry. Are there any tricks regarding raindrops on glasses? The best I could do was just keep my head down.
Also, a confession. There is one hill on my ride home that I have been riding up the sidewalk. I know I shouldn't, but the sidewalk is double-wide, and there's no bike lane on the road plus a bunch of parked cars, and I hold up traffic whenever I struggle up the hill as fast as possible in the road. It's a much less intense hill at my own pace...
Congrats! I have yet to do a ride commute in the rain. I really need to work on that personal weakness.
I do know a cure for rain drops on glasses, but I don't think you'll like it: LASIK. :-)
One thing that I think I've learned is to just take the lane and not to worry about the impatient drivers. I pedal as fast as I can, and am getting faster. Done some reading on bike safety and it seems safer to just take the lane. Counterintuitive as it seems. I almost got clipped by a bus my first week in return for sharing the lane. I don't want to be a jerk, but I really don't want to get hit!
My personal rule is to not go faster than a slow jog on the sidewalk. If you have an extra wide sidewalk and the hill is challenging enough that you aren't faster than a jogger, I think you should be on the sidewalk (careful to look for cross traffic and yielding to pedestrians, of course). It's cyclists who bomb down sidewalks at 15 mph who are not safe (to pedestrians and where cars cross the sidewalk not expecting cross traffic that fast). Of course, there are some cities that completely ban sidewalk riding (I'd prefer they set a rolling speed limit on sidewalks and enforce it for everything with wheels).Also, a confession. There is one hill on my ride home that I have been riding up the sidewalk. I know I shouldn't, but the sidewalk is double-wide, and there's no bike lane on the road plus a bunch of parked cars, and I hold up traffic whenever I struggle up the hill as fast as possible in the road. It's a much less intense hill at my own pace...I definitely claim the lane if I am riding in the road - it's just that not riding in the road is very tempting for this particular hill during rush hour. The power of social pressure, even invisible, is impressive.
My personal rule is to not go faster than a slow jog on the sidewalk. If you have an extra wide sidewalk and the hill is challenging enough that you aren't faster than a jogger, I think you should be on the sidewalk (careful to look for cross traffic and yielding to pedestrians, of course). It's cyclists who bomb down sidewalks at 15 mph who are not safe (to pedestrians and where cars cross the sidewalk not expecting cross traffic that fast).Agreed. Speedy bicyclists on sidewalks are to pedestrians as cars are to road bicyclists.
I'm pretty comfortable taking the lane at about 15 mph (either that's close enough to the speed limit that drivers should just be forgiving, or it's a multi-lane road and they can use the other lane to pass) between 10 mph and 15 mph I find taking the lane to be harder to do due to the social pressure, but too fast to be safe on the sidewalk. Fortunately it's pretty flat where I live, so I can usually cruise near 15 mph.I feel like cars miss this point. "But I want to be in my favorite lane. Why do I have to move?"
My personal rule is to not go faster than a slow jog on the sidewalk. If you have an extra wide sidewalk and the hill is challenging enough that you aren't faster than a jogger, I think you should be on the sidewalk (careful to look for cross traffic and yielding to pedestrians, of course). It's cyclists who bomb down sidewalks at 15 mph who are not safe (to pedestrians and where cars cross the sidewalk not expecting cross traffic that fast).Agreed. Speedy bicyclists on sidewalks are to pedestrians as cars are to road bicyclists.I'm pretty comfortable taking the lane at about 15 mph (either that's close enough to the speed limit that drivers should just be forgiving, or it's a multi-lane road and they can use the other lane to pass) between 10 mph and 15 mph I find taking the lane to be harder to do due to the social pressure, but too fast to be safe on the sidewalk. Fortunately it's pretty flat where I live, so I can usually cruise near 15 mph.I feel like cars miss this point. "But I want to be in my favorite lane. Why do I have to move?"
What drives me absolute bonkers when I drive is that cyclists around here (not commuting, but riding for fun/whatever) ride on two-lane, curvy roads. You can't pass them without putting your own safety at risk, because you can't see around the curves. There are greenways built specifically for people to ride for fun, and these guys would rather block traffic/put drivers at risk by riding where they do.Is this a "dad joke"? "It bothers me that other people exist and don't share my views!"
I know that's a car-centric view, but it is really frustrating when you have somewhere to be, but you're stuck going 15-20 mph behind cyclists in a 40 mph area.
I am planning to get an ebike for commuting and was curious if anyone is familiar with Ancheer? It looks like it wouldn't be great if I plan to ride long distance or off-road, but my commute will only be about four miles each way, with some decent hills. That is considerably cheaper than a lot of the other brands I've looked at, and I don't want to get more than I need.
What drives me absolute bonkers when I drive is that cyclists around here (not commuting, but riding for fun/whatever) ride on two-lane, curvy roads. You can't pass them without putting your own safety at risk, because you can't see around the curves. There are greenways built specifically for people to ride for fun, and these guys would rather block traffic/put drivers at risk by riding where they do.How do you know the cyclists are not using their bikes for transportation. They have every bit as much right as you do to use the road for transportation even if they make a different vehicle choice. Move close to an interstate highway if having a fast transportation route is that important to you.
I know that's a car-centric view, but it is really frustrating when you have somewhere to be, but you're stuck going 15-20 mph behind cyclists in a 40 mph area.
The Alexandria Bicycle and Pedestrian Advisory Committee is launching a bike mentoring program to match less experienced riders with riders who have been biking in Alexandria for years. A mentor will work individually with each mentee to help achieve the mentee’s biking goals – whether that’s learning how to bike commute, getting comfortable biking to the farmers’ market, or figuring out how to bike safely to the nearest trail. If you’re an experienced rider who lives or works in Alexandria, please consider becoming a bike mentor.
I am planning to get an ebike for commuting and was curious if anyone is familiar with Ancheer? It looks like it wouldn't be great if I plan to ride long distance or off-road, but my commute will only be about four miles each way, with some decent hills. That is considerably cheaper than a lot of the other brands I've looked at, and I don't want to get more than I need.
It's a hub drive, but the site doesn't really specify what kind of hub. Hub drives are kind of going out of style, which may not matter to you.I'm curious what you base this assertion on. I still see plenty of hub drive ebikes. Mid-drive ebikes do have some advantages (primarily using the drive train to work efficiently at different speeds) and disadvantages (wear on drive train and noise). I only see hub drive going out of style among the crowd who want an ebike to be more like an electric motorcycle/dirtbike than a bicycle with an assist.
Also, it doesn't specify what wheel size the bike has.You are mistaken. All three models have a nominal wheel diameter in the specifications (26" except the 20" City folder).
The motor only assists up to 25 km/h. Most other motors are limited to 32km/hr.This is the legal limit in most of Europe - makes me think that Europe is their primary market - I don't think this is a reason to question quality.
It comes unassembled.Any bike shipped to the consumer rather than purchased at a dealer is going to require some assembly (though the amount of assembly required may vary).
Do the greenways also provide the same kind of terrain and views? My guess is that they are on the road for either training conditions that the greenway doesn't provide (steeper terrain or sharper curves) or for the vistas (not as likely since you say it can be difficult to see around the curves). I can understand some frustration by people who are on the road for transportation (the nominal purpose of the road).How do you know the cyclists are not using their bikes for transportation. They have every bit as much right as you do to use the road for transportation even if they make a different vehicle choice. Move close to an interstate highway if having a fast transportation route is that important to you.
If you can't see far enough to pass a 20 mph vehicle, is it really a road where 40 mph is a safe speed?
Many mixed use recreational trails have 15 mph speed limits. This is not appropriate for road bike training routes. Of course I do frequently see cyclists exceeding speed limits on these trails. You could argue that using a road for athletic training is not its purpose.
Because they transport their bikes to a nearby parking lot via cars and ride from there. The greenways do not have a speed limit.
What drives me absolute bonkers when I drive is that cyclists around here (not commuting, but riding for fun/whatever) ride on two-lane, curvy roads. You can't pass them without putting your own safety at risk, because you can't see around the curves. There are greenways built specifically for people to ride for fun, and these guys would rather block traffic/put drivers at risk by riding where they do.
I know that's a car-centric view, but it is really frustrating when you have somewhere to be, but you're stuck going 15-20 mph behind cyclists in a 40 mph area.
What drives me absolute bonkers when I drive is that cyclists around here (not commuting, but riding for fun/whatever) ride on two-lane, curvy roads. You can't pass them without putting your own safety at risk, because you can't see around the curves. There are greenways built specifically for people to ride for fun, and these guys would rather block traffic/put drivers at risk by riding where they do.
I know that's a car-centric view, but it is really frustrating when you have somewhere to be, but you're stuck going 15-20 mph behind cyclists in a 40 mph area.
I am planning to get an ebike for commuting and was curious if anyone is familiar with Ancheer? It looks like it wouldn't be great if I plan to ride long distance or off-road, but my commute will only be about four miles each way, with some decent hills. That is considerably cheaper than a lot of the other brands I've looked at, and I don't want to get more than I need.
I went to the library today in my new city, and I was reading all their postings on the Community Info board, and they offer a bike mentor service! They will pair you with someone who will teach you basic bike care and also help you find a good, safe, comfortable route for your commute (that part doesn't apply to me), and will even go biking with you.
How cool is this!QuoteThe Alexandria Bicycle and Pedestrian Advisory Committee is launching a bike mentoring program to match less experienced riders with riders who have been biking in Alexandria for years. A mentor will work individually with each mentee to help achieve the mentee’s biking goals – whether that’s learning how to bike commute, getting comfortable biking to the farmers’ market, or figuring out how to bike safely to the nearest trail. If you’re an experienced rider who lives or works in Alexandria, please consider becoming a bike mentor.
@DadJokes thanks for voicing your frustration. I'm a converted bicyclist from a car-centric-city upbringing so I've had a lot of conversations where similar responses pop up.100% of microaggressions are unintentional...
My personal belief is that most of the frustrations are when both groups are misunderstanding the other or have unclear expectations of the other.
I'm putting together some information and I think your perspective on the project would be helpful. Would you be willing to input on the content and communication style? (it's not quite ready yet, so don't get too eager)
ETA: anyone else interested in inputting on a Let's-all-understand-each-other Traffic Presentation?
It might be naive, but I'd like to try a different approach than the other bike presentations out there.
Since my first rain-biking experience my chain has been squeaking in a new way, so I finally bought chain lube.
I also probably need to buy a new front light, but I'm still hoping the old one will turn up somewhere... (I'm reasonably sure it got lost rather than stolen.)
On the subject of regular maintenance, how do you know when your brakes need replacing? Presumably you want to get that done before the day when they just don't stop you.
Since my first rain-biking experience my chain has been squeaking in a new way, so I finally bought chain lube.
I also probably need to buy a new front light, but I'm still hoping the old one will turn up somewhere... (I'm reasonably sure it got lost rather than stolen.)
On the subject of regular maintenance, how do you know when your brakes need replacing? Presumably you want to get that done before the day when they just don't stop you.
Depends on the kind of brakes you've got. If you have regular rim brakes, you'll notice that the pads get thinner with use. Usually there are markings (notches) on the pads. Once the brake has worn down to where you can't see the markings any more it's time to replace the pad.
Pads will tend to wear much faster if you cycle in the rain, if you're a heavier rider, or if you often find yourself using the brakes to come to a stop from high speed.
Since my first rain-biking experience my chain has been squeaking in a new way, so I finally bought chain lube.
I also probably need to buy a new front light, but I'm still hoping the old one will turn up somewhere... (I'm reasonably sure it got lost rather than stolen.)
On the subject of regular maintenance, how do you know when your brakes need replacing? Presumably you want to get that done before the day when they just don't stop you.
Depends on the kind of brakes you've got. If you have regular rim brakes, you'll notice that the pads get thinner with use. Usually there are markings (notches) on the pads. Once the brake has worn down to where you can't see the markings any more it's time to replace the pad.
Pads will tend to wear much faster if you cycle in the rain, if you're a heavier rider, or if you often find yourself using the brakes to come to a stop from high speed.
This. And you only have to replace the rubber pad, not the whole brake mechanism. If you ride in wet weather often, I highly recommend Kool Stop pads. They're a little more money, but they last longer and stop better than the cheaper brands.
This thread has made me feel very pathetic, so thank you!!
I am ~3mo into really implementing MMM principles into my life. I have been very pleased with the progress, the changes in my life and the quality of life improvement on what was already a pretty great life!
More specifically to this thread, I was very proud of myself for finding a free used beat up bike on craigslist, watching youtube videos and fixing it up at the cost of only the parts. 125$ later I had brand new road tires, inner tubes, a bike repair kit, front and rear bike lights, chain lube and brake pads. I successfully installed everything and now have a functional working bicycle.
I was also proud of myself for using the bike to commute to the gym and have been commuting to work on 50% of work days.
However...
1. I live in sunny northern CA. Sure, it's been a little rainy as of late, but the weather on my work commute is BEAUTIFUL.
2. My work commute is pretty much entirely flat except for one small hill that takes all of (an intense) 10seconds to get up.
3. My work commute is 2.5 miles.. 5 miles round trip. Takes about 15 minutes, 30 minutes round trip.
Reading what some of you guys have to deal with, I'm such a whimp!! Can't believe I have only been able to do 50% of work days. I really have no excuse to drive to work at all.
SO, starting on April 1st, I am going to try to pump this number up to 100%. Posting here for accountability :)
This thread has made me feel very pathetic, so thank you!!
I am ~3mo into really implementing MMM principles into my life. I have been very pleased with the progress, the changes in my life and the quality of life improvement on what was already a pretty great life!
More specifically to this thread, I was very proud of myself for finding a free used beat up bike on craigslist, watching youtube videos and fixing it up at the cost of only the parts. 125$ later I had brand new road tires, inner tubes, a bike repair kit, front and rear bike lights, chain lube and brake pads. I successfully installed everything and now have a functional working bicycle.
I was also proud of myself for using the bike to commute to the gym and have been commuting to work on 50% of work days.
However...
1. I live in sunny northern CA. Sure, it's been a little rainy as of late, but the weather on my work commute is BEAUTIFUL.
2. My work commute is pretty much entirely flat except for one small hill that takes all of (an intense) 10seconds to get up.
3. My work commute is 2.5 miles.. 5 miles round trip. Takes about 15 minutes, 30 minutes round trip.
Reading what some of you guys have to deal with, I'm such a whimp!! Can't believe I have only been able to do 50% of work days. I really have no excuse to drive to work at all.
SO, starting on April 1st, I am going to try to pump this number up to 100%. Posting here for accountability :)
Very nice! Honestly, I feel like 100% is almost easier than 50%, similar to how I feel about working out. 100% is a habit, automatic, and no thought goes into the decision. 50% can invite procrastination and excuses, at least for me. Now, my bike commute isn't difficult, so maybe I'd feel differently if it were unpleasant for some reason.
Question for y’all: what recommendations do you have for rain gear? My area rains a lot and it’s preventing me from biking to work every day. Any maintenance to do given my bike will be sitting out in the rain?
Question for y’all: what recommendations do you have for rain gear? My area rains a lot and it’s preventing me from biking to work every day. Any maintenance to do given my bike will be sitting out in the rain?
This thread has made me feel very pathetic, so thank you!!Welcome from another northern California wimp. My commute is also mostly flat and fairly short (4.5 miles - my one small hill is on the route with best bike infrastructure; but I can avoid it if I want to). This winter my commute trips by bike: 65% in November, 43% in December, 41% in January, 50% in February, 70% in March. Soon we'll be back to consistently dry weather and bike share of commute trips will be nearly 100% again. If you're in the Sacramento Region, sign up for MayIsBikeMonth.com (http://MayIsBikeMonth.com).
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More specifically to this thread, I was very proud of myself for finding a free used beat up bike on craigslist, watching youtube videos and fixing it up at the cost of only the parts. 125$ later I had brand new road tires, inner tubes, a bike repair kit, front and rear bike lights, chain lube and brake pads. I successfully installed everything and now have a functional working bicycle.
I was also proud of myself for using the bike to commute to the gym and have been commuting to work on 50% of work days.
However...
1. I live in sunny northern CA. Sure, it's been a little rainy as of late, but the weather on my work commute is BEAUTIFUL.
2. My work commute is pretty much entirely flat except for one small hill that takes all of (an intense) 10seconds to get up.
3. My work commute is 2.5 miles.. 5 miles round trip. Takes about 15 minutes, 30 minutes round trip.
Reading what some of you guys have to deal with, I'm such a whimp!! Can't believe I have only been able to do 50% of work days. I really have no excuse to drive to work at all.
SO, starting on April 1st, I am going to try to pump this number up to 100%. Posting here for accountability :)
Welcome from another northern California wimp. My commute is also mostly flat and fairly short (4.5 miles - my one small hill is on the route with best bike infrastructure; but I can avoid it if I want to). This winter my commute trips by bike: 65% in November, 43% in December, 41% in January, 50% in February, 70% in March. Soon we'll be back to consistently dry weather and bike share of commute trips will be nearly 100% again. If you're in the Sacramento Region, sign up for MayIsBikeMonth.com (http://MayIsBikeMonth.com).
Question for y’all: what recommendations do you have for rain gear? My area rains a lot and it’s preventing me from biking to work every day. Any maintenance to do given my bike will be sitting out in the rain?
You bike will be fine as long as you keep stuff lubed up (this basically means lube your chain every week or so and regrease your brake pivots, headset, bottom bracket, and any screws that go into the frame for racks/fenders once or twice a year)
Generally speaking with rain gear I just try to keep warm. As long as I can avoid being too chilled, getting wet doesn't matter. Waterproof cycling gear tends to make you sweat so much that you're soaked when you get there anyway. :P
Thanks! I like the percentages. I've been tracking mileage car/bike and looking at my miles biked as a percentage of total, pretty revealing:My percentage is just for my commute trips. Fortunately most of my non-bike commute trips are transit (though sometimes my wife drops me off or picks me up). Unfortunately much of my non-commute (church, family activities, shopping and other errands) transport is by car (though usually with my wife) - I easily travel more miles by car even when my commute is at 100% bike. Best way to reduce the percentage of non-commute trips by bike would be to get my wife an e-bike.
February: 33.6 biked / 292 driven (10.3%)
March: 34.7 biked / 538 driven (6.0%.. ouch, too many trips to sac and davis)
April: goal is to bike more miles than driven (>50%)
Looks like I ought to clean my chain before putting lube on it? Or should I just lube it now and worry about cleaning another time?Lots of "religion" in chain care as mentioned previously. The primary theory against lubing without cleaning is that the lube will transport the grime to the inner surfaces and wear the chain faster than if you hadn't added the lube. I recommend cleaning as thoroughly as possible before lubing.
dirty chain no lube < clean chain no lube < dirty chain w lube < clean chain w lube
I also had a guy continue to accelerate toward me as I merged (with TONS of space) into his lane today, which was freaky. I couldn't see if he could see me, so I swerved - probably not the best idea - and he slowed down in time, looked at me (now in a different lane), and then accelerated again to pass. The guy behind him let me in. Wish I had this bike horn working.
I also had a guy continue to accelerate toward me as I merged (with TONS of space) into his lane today, which was freaky. I couldn't see if he could see me, so I swerved - probably not the best idea - and he slowed down in time, looked at me (now in a different lane), and then accelerated again to pass. The guy behind him let me in. Wish I had this bike horn working.
That's always been my hardest obstacle to overcome when biking: getting over the assholes*. They're probably no more than 1% of the population, but they ruin it for me on days where they make their presence known. My sympathies.
*Not to discount the biking assholes (which I wouldn't believe existed if I hadn't seen it myself). I was stopped at a red light and a couple riding their bikes came to a stop at the light perpendicular to mine. The guy got off his bike, and in his flip flops kicked the car that drove up next to them. The guy in the car got out and a fistfight started in the middle of the street. The girl on the other bike looked like she wanted to vanish. Unfortunately my light turned green and I missed the rest of the story.
Interesting tale. I’ve had to deal with enough idiots just in the last month to give the cyclist the benefit of the doubt. I don’t know what the relative a-hole versus moron % is in my area, but I’d say the just plain crappy/clueless/malevolent percentage is roughly one out of every 10 or 20.
I don’t think bike commuting will ever become more prevalent than clown cars as a result. I do not mind being a trend setter, but I won’t lie to folks: bike commuting can be darn scary.
I'm willing to bet $100 internet dollars the guy in the car nearly hit the dude on the bike sometime before they both reached the intersection.
I'm willing to bet $100 internet dollars the guy in the car nearly hit the dude on the bike sometime before they both reached the intersection.
I don't doubt it. But is road rage the answer? (Completely rhetorical, because maybe it was the right answer in that situation....)
Maybe, maybe not. I don’t advocate vigilantism. But I might have stood up and cheered had I been there and known the whole story.
I’ve had enough close calls with the clueless/indifferent/ malevolent drivers. If we ever want bike commuting to become a thing, dealing with that is going to become a key. And I think it can be. At one time in my memory, drunk driving wasn’t a big deal. Lots of people died. Then MADD came on the scene. Maybe we need Mustachians Against Idiotic Drivers (MAIDs)?
I have myself wishing for a second bike bell, really a loud, annoying bike horn. The bell is polite for letting peds know I am overtaking them. I need something obnoxious to let cars know to back off or stop being idiots.
So, to change the subject, where's the craziest place you've ridden your bike so far?
The fastest way to clean your chain I've found is to whack it with some WD40 and then carefully wipe off all excess with a rag. Let it sit overnight, wipe off any further excess with a rag, and re-lube. It's probably worth running a rag along the teeth on your cassette and chain ring (as well as jockey wheels) while you do this. All told, this shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.
So, to change the subject, where's the craziest place you've ridden your bike so far?
The fastest way to clean your chain I've found is to whack it with some WD40 and then carefully wipe off all excess with a rag. Let it sit overnight, wipe off any further excess with a rag, and re-lube. It's probably worth running a rag along the teeth on your cassette and chain ring (as well as jockey wheels) while you do this. All told, this shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.
I did this this evening - the chain never stopped leaving black on the rag, despite me certainly using way too much WD40. Does that mean I didn't clean enough, or should I just go back at it with the rag tomorrow and lube whatever I've got at that point?
The fastest way to clean your chain I've found is to whack it with some WD40 and then carefully wipe off all excess with a rag. Let it sit overnight, wipe off any further excess with a rag, and re-lube. It's probably worth running a rag along the teeth on your cassette and chain ring (as well as jockey wheels) while you do this. All told, this shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.
I did this this evening - the chain never stopped leaving black on the rag, despite me certainly using way too much WD40. Does that mean I didn't clean enough, or should I just go back at it with the rag tomorrow and lube whatever I've got at that point?
It's good to see black on the rag . . . that's all crap that was stuck to your chain!
Go back at it tomorrow and you should be able to get the black to come free. Most of the stuff will drip out or evaporate by the morning.
I don't usually soak the chain in WD-40 though, just a quick blast as I spin the pedals. If I don't wipe off all the WD-40 then it will prevent the lube from adhering properly to the chain. You might need to wipe the chain down and relube again the day after too if this is the case.
This is my speedy/half assed way of cleaning the chain in the winter when I'm cold and want to go inside. :P
So, to change the subject, where's the craziest place you've ridden your bike so far?
I do almost all of my errands by bike now, unless it's too far and I can't find a safe route (my dentist), or I need to bring the kids.
Probably the weirdest one was where I had some friends unexpectedly show up at a bar a few miles away and invite me out. Showed up on my bike, which amused them. For the safety-conscious, I only had one drink.
So, to change the subject, where's the craziest place you've ridden your bike so far?Nothing very crazy.
@DadJokes thanks for voicing your frustration. I'm a converted bicyclist from a car-centric-city upbringing so I've had a lot of conversations where similar responses pop up.
My personal belief is that most of the frustrations are when both groups are misunderstanding the other or have unclear expectations of the other.
I'm putting together some information and I think your perspective on the project would be helpful. Would you be willing to input on the content and communication style? (it's not quite ready yet, so don't get too eager)
ETA: anyone else interested in inputting on a Let's-all-understand-each-other Traffic Presentation?
It might be naive, but I'd like to try a different approach than the other bike presentations out there.
Sure, I would be happy to.
Thought for the day as I was cycling into work...This x1 million. I'm a smiling, waving, head nodding fool when I'm on my bike and a driver exhibits great behavior.
Don't underestimate the power of positive reinforcement when you're out on the bike. A simple wave, hand gesture, smile, nod, etc. in thanks when a vehicle drives safely near you (recognizes you, eye contact, let's you merge, is cautious around you, doesn't endanger you with a narrow pass, etc.) can go a long way into reinforcing these behaviors!
Even though it is not something that should be celebrated/encouraged (it just SHOULD happen), we all know it doesn't happen all the time. Further, we humans like being recognized for doing something "nice", which is likely what many drivers feel they are being when they drive cautiously around you. At the very least, the reinforcement will help those drivers be more wary of cyclists in the future.
So, to change the subject, where's the craziest place you've ridden your bike so far?
"You're the second person to show up on a bike. There's this man that came in last week, and it was snowing!" Ya...that man is my husband. Ha.
Thought for the day as I was cycling into work...This x1 million. I'm a smiling, waving, head nodding fool when I'm on my bike and a driver exhibits great behavior.
Don't underestimate the power of positive reinforcement when you're out on the bike. A simple wave, hand gesture, smile, nod, etc. in thanks when a vehicle drives safely near you (recognizes you, eye contact, let's you merge, is cautious around you, doesn't endanger you with a narrow pass, etc.) can go a long way into reinforcing these behaviors!
Even though it is not something that should be celebrated/encouraged (it just SHOULD happen), we all know it doesn't happen all the time. Further, we humans like being recognized for doing something "nice", which is likely what many drivers feel they are being when they drive cautiously around you. At the very least, the reinforcement will help those drivers be more wary of cyclists in the future.
However, I also don't shy away from giving 1-1 feedback. Which hasn't ever resulted in "Oh, I'm sorry. I'll do better next time."
It physically pains me to think that I just sat back and let something happen. "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing", and all that. Because that's how you getantsHitler.
What if the driver was just never told that what they did was inappropriate?
For others with this urge to communicate, how do you keep it to yourself? Do you think you should?
*FYI, I though maybe this urge could be balanced with doing something else to increase awareness/education. So I am actively working with my city and community to create aBicycleTraffic Awareness program.
But it is still so hard to sit by while someone threatens harm on another human being.
I clean my chain with a gizmo that looks like this and some citrus degreaser from the hardware store. https://www.amazon.ca/VeloChampion-Bike-Chain-Cleaner-Bicycle/dp/B002CLO29U/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=230008289239&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8118926246043663448&hvtargid=kwd-301091455831&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&qid=1554755289&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Takes 2 minutes. Then just rinse off all the degreaser with a garden hose.
Related: that was an EXTREMELY aggravating stretch of road to bike, with constant switches between bike lane present, parked car lane present, three lanes with rightmost marked to share with bikes, or - at one point - just two marked lanes, but the right one was double-wide. I'm enjoying my commute, but that ride was stressful. It's too bad the library is on the other side of it. I might honestly rather walk 4 miles round trip.Yeah, busy roads with inconsistent bike infrastructure is annoying. One street I commute on has two regular trafic lanes in each direction. The first block I ride has a school - there is a striped bike lane with signs and pavement markings. The next block is around a right hand curve and mostly has residences - the striping is the same, but the bike lane is not marked and the residents regularly park in the lane even though it's not wide enough so the cars straddle the solid white line (I assume it was intended as a bike lane, but someone removed the signs and parking restrictions are never enforced). Then the street straightens out and has businesses on it - bike lane striping goes away and sharrows are painted in the right hand traffic lane. The shoulder is wide enough for parking here, but there are rarely parked vehicles at the time I ride there, so I don't usually need to take the lane. Fortunately I usually take this trip before the street gets busy in the morning.
I clean my chain with a gizmo that looks like this and some citrus degreaser from the hardware store. https://www.amazon.ca/VeloChampion-Bike-Chain-Cleaner-Bicycle/dp/B002CLO29U/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=230008289239&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8118926246043663448&hvtargid=kwd-301091455831&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&qid=1554755289&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Takes 2 minutes. Then just rinse off all the degreaser with a garden hose.
Good recommendation -- I'll have to get one of these! How do you guys clean your chainrings / gear cogs?
I pour a bit of degreaser in an old ice cream bucket and use a tile brush from the hardware store to scrub the degreaser over all the cogs. Don't forget he jockeys (cogs) on the rear derailler. They collect the most gunk and they're usually plastic. https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-Tile-and-Grout-Brush-49146/205329342 See how it only costs a couple bucks?The bike specific one from Park Tools is about $5 and the handle end is designed to be thin enough to use to pick out gunk between the gears on the rear wheel. I've gone with the free version - a retired toothbrush; but that doesn't work so well if you use those fancy electric toothbrushes.
You can also get a bike specific version of the same brush for 2-5x the cost. Or not.
Related: that was an EXTREMELY aggravating stretch of road to bike, with constant switches between bike lane present, parked car lane present, three lanes with rightmost marked to share with bikes, or - at one point - just two marked lanes, but the right one was double-wide. I'm enjoying my commute, but that ride was stressful. It's too bad the library is on the other side of it. I might honestly rather walk 4 miles round trip.
Just completed my first ever week of bike commuting every single day!Nicely done!
I clean my chain with a gizmo that looks like this and some citrus degreaser from the hardware store. https://www.amazon.ca/VeloChampion-Bike-Chain-Cleaner-Bicycle/dp/B002CLO29U/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=230008289239&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8118926246043663448&hvtargid=kwd-301091455831&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&qid=1554755289&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Takes 2 minutes. Then just rinse off all the degreaser with a garden hose.
Good recommendation -- I'll have to get one of these! How do you guys clean your chainrings / gear cogs?
I clean my chain with a gizmo that looks like this and some citrus degreaser from the hardware store. https://www.amazon.ca/VeloChampion-Bike-Chain-Cleaner-Bicycle/dp/B002CLO29U/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=230008289239&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8118926246043663448&hvtargid=kwd-301091455831&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&qid=1554755289&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Takes 2 minutes. Then just rinse off all the degreaser with a garden hose.
Good recommendation -- I'll have to get one of these! How do you guys clean your chainrings / gear cogs?
Deep clean:
- remove the chain and cassette (take the cassette apart) from rear wheel, dunk in a container of degreaser and let sit for a couple hours
- wipe down the two cogs on the rear derailleur and the chainrings with some degreaser/toothbrush* then wipe dry with a rag
- wipe clean each cog in the cassette
- hang the chain from a nail on the wall to drip dry overnight
- Re-assemble the cassette on the rear wheel, re-attach the rear wheel, re-attach the chain, lube the chain (sparingly)
*It is very important to thoroughly rinse the toothbrush before using it again on your teeth.
That only happens once or twice a year though. Maybe once a month I'll use one of those degreaser thingies that fit over your chain and spin the chain backwards, dry, and re-lube. After nearly every ride I'll spend a minute quickly wiping down the chain, cassette, jockey wheels, and chainrings . . . all together this tends to keep things very clean.
I clean my chain with a gizmo that looks like this and some citrus degreaser from the hardware store. https://www.amazon.ca/VeloChampion-Bike-Chain-Cleaner-Bicycle/dp/B002CLO29U/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=230008289239&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8118926246043663448&hvtargid=kwd-301091455831&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&qid=1554755289&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Takes 2 minutes. Then just rinse off all the degreaser with a garden hose.
Good recommendation -- I'll have to get one of these! How do you guys clean your chainrings / gear cogs?
Deep clean:
- remove the chain and cassette (take the cassette apart) from rear wheel, dunk in a container of degreaser and let sit for a couple hours
- wipe down the two cogs on the rear derailleur and the chainrings with some degreaser/toothbrush* then wipe dry with a rag
- wipe clean each cog in the cassette
- hang the chain from a nail on the wall to drip dry overnight
- Re-assemble the cassette on the rear wheel, re-attach the rear wheel, re-attach the chain, lube the chain (sparingly)
*It is very important to thoroughly rinse the toothbrush before using it again on your teeth.
That only happens once or twice a year though. Maybe once a month I'll use one of those degreaser thingies that fit over your chain and spin the chain backwards, dry, and re-lube. After nearly every ride I'll spend a minute quickly wiping down the chain, cassette, jockey wheels, and chainrings . . . all together this tends to keep things very clean.
What’s a “degreaser thingie that fits over your chain”? I think I need one of those. Haven’t cleaned the chain since I bought the bike two years ago. Yes, I’m a total newbie.
I have no garden, no balcony, no garage, no garden hose, and keep the bike in the spare bedroom, so I need something simple and not messy to clean the chain.
Wannabe bike commuter looking for suggestions!
I want to bike to work. I really do. I specifically rented a house that is only 6 miles from work so I could. What I didn't account for is the last 2 miles on the way there. There is no other route for this portion. It is, effectively, a freeway. Just slowed down to 65 mph (!!!) and with the occasional intersection. There is a wide paved shoulder, where I'll be staying for most of the ride. Going to work requires two left turns across all 4 lanes. Thankfully returning is all right turns. I have done a trial run on a Saturday, when there is less traffic from my workplace and the one across the road. It's pretty doable, although utterly terrifying when getting passed by a semi. Assuming I gather up the courage to do it on weekdays, I plan to only go during the part of the year when I don't have to ride in the dark, light my bike up like a Christmas tree, wear a reflective vest, and maybe slap some reflective strips on my helmet as well. Any other suggestions to make this part of the trip safer or less scary?
The last couple weeks have given me a little taste of what all of you rainy-climate riders experience. I don't mind riding in rain at all, but I'm sure not used to having to plan for dripping wet clothing needing a place to be stored in the locker room! Thankfully I keep extra socks in my locker so I'll have a third pair to change into at the gym later, and I've already gotten my money's worth out of the rainproof shell I picked up last week. Very grateful for merino base layers - I only have one set that I wear year round but they dry pretty quickly even in my locker (with the door cracked open). I'm used to these heavy downpours in summer when all I'm wearing is a sundress and liner shorts, not this 45F degree business!
Wannabe bike commuter looking for suggestions!Busy road with limited opportunities to turn across it sounds like what the folks over at Strong Towns call a STROAD (https://www.strongtowns.org/journal/2018/3/1/whats-a-stroad-and-why-does-it-matter).
I want to bike to work. I really do. I specifically rented a house that is only 6 miles from work so I could. What I didn't account for is the last 2 miles on the way there. There is no other route for this portion. It is, effectively, a freeway. Just slowed down to 65 mph (!!!) and with the occasional intersection. There is a wide paved shoulder, where I'll be staying for most of the ride. Going to work requires two left turns across all 4 lanes. Thankfully returning is all right turns. I have done a trial run on a Saturday, when there is less traffic from my workplace and the one across the road. It's pretty doable, although utterly terrifying when getting passed by a semi. Assuming I gather up the courage to do it on weekdays, I plan to only go during the part of the year when I don't have to ride in the dark, light my bike up like a Christmas tree, wear a reflective vest, and maybe slap some reflective strips on my helmet as well. Any other suggestions to make this part of the trip safer or less scary?
I work in a building full of legislators four months out of the year and have to go through a metal detector when entering. I don't think the bike would even fit through that.You can get some pretty narrow drop bars... next time you go through the metal detector take a measuring tape(It won't look suspicious at all.) If you've got 46cm of width, you're golden. The security guys may actually be the best source for knowing the safest places to lock up your bike.
I have no issue biking in a massive windy rain storm but when the sun and warmth come out I just can’t handle it.I'm pretty much the opposite.
I think I deserve MMM biking bad-ass brownie points today. I took my kid in to work with me for bring-your-short-person-to-work-day and we biked. She was in the bike trailer which is still work to pull, even with the ebike assist. On top of it was a bazillion degrees today in a freak hot spell and I just about melted. I have no issue biking in a massive windy rain storm but when the sun and warmth come out I just can’t handle it.
When we did some remodeling we upgraded the electrical box to be able to support future AC, solar, electric car charging. We weren’t going to get AC but then we had this series of four or more heat waves that just crushed us. As adults it sucks, and we botch and moan, but we survive. The impact on the littles is what prompted us to finally do it though. Both girls woke up screaming last night, soaked in sweat. There is no viable way to dress a baby for bed on a warm evening that will work all night long as the evening and house cools. Either she wakes up from overheating early in the night or wakes up from the cold later in the night. All the money spent on AC is well worth it to avoid those night wake ups for me.I think I deserve MMM biking bad-ass brownie points today. I took my kid in to work with me for bring-your-short-person-to-work-day and we biked. She was in the bike trailer which is still work to pull, even with the ebike assist. On top of it was a bazillion degrees today in a freak hot spell and I just about melted. I have no issue biking in a massive windy rain storm but when the sun and warmth come out I just can’t handle it.
Major brownie points for hauling the short person in with you. That's a physical and mental accomplishment.
I also melt in the heat. Every year when it gets warm I frantically research A/C systems for our house (it doesn't have A/C). Then after 3 weeks I finally acclimatize and realize we don't need A/C.
Just bought a bike yesterday and rode it the 2.2 miles home from the shop (which will be the same commute for work, I work across the street from the bike shop, lucky me!)
I haven't hardly done anything physical in years, and am 6'2 350lbs. My heart rate hasn't been that high since college (over 10 years ago) and today my body still feels like jelly.
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?
Just bought a bike yesterday and rode it the 2.2 miles home from the shop (which will be the same commute for work, I work across the street from the bike shop, lucky me!)
I haven't hardly done anything physical in years, and am 6'2 350lbs. My heart rate hasn't been that high since college (over 10 years ago) and today my body still feels like jelly.
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?
I park my bike in the lobby of my building and just lock it to itself. Most people don’t lock their bikes but mine is a borrowed company ebike that cost a ridiculous sum new.Bikepooling Achievement Unlocked! Celebrate by making some real brownies and enjoy them with shorty! That's a super cool thing ya did!
I think I deserve MMM biking bad-ass brownie points today. I took my kid in to work with me for bring-your-short-person-to-work-day and we biked. She was in the bike trailer which is still work to pull, even with the ebike assist. On top of it was a bazillion degrees today in a freak hot spell and I just about melted. I have no issue biking in a massive windy rain storm but when the sun and warmth come out I just can’t handle it.
Just bought a bike yesterday and rode it the 2.2 miles home from the shop (which will be the same commute for work, I work across the street from the bike shop, lucky me!)Listen to your bod.
I haven't hardly done anything physical in years, and am 6'2 350lbs. My heart rate hasn't been that high since college (over 10 years ago) and today my body still feels like jelly.
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?You don't want to over-stress yourself, but you do want physical activity that exercises your heart and lungs regularly. You want to work hard enough that your breathing increases, but not so much that you're out of breath. Try maintain this level of activity for 15-20 minutes at a time. If you pushed yourself too hard, it is OK to take the next day off for recovery, but try to target your efforts to a level that you feel good doing almost every day. Limit pushing how much you can do in one day to about once a week at most.
Just bought a bike yesterday and rode it the 2.2 miles home from the shop (which will be the same commute for work, I work across the street from the bike shop, lucky me!)
I haven't hardly done anything physical in years, and am 6'2 350lbs. My heart rate hasn't been that high since college (over 10 years ago) and today my body still feels like jelly.
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?
Good for you!
To start, I'd probably only ride 2-3 days/week and never 2 days consecutively. Do that for a month and then add another day.
When I started my current commute, the first time ever was exhausting - red-faced, gasping, sat on a bench for several minutes at the end (and also in the middle). The second time was no better. The third time, I suddenly got the hang of it, and a few months later it's a breeze.You should update the first post of this thread with "golden newbie knowledge nuggets" that you've accumulated over the past year and a half.
I don't know how universal this experience is, but I wish it on everyone (the improvement, not the initial suffering). Having fully inflated tires and a seat raised to the appropriate height helps a lot.
When I started my current commute, the first time ever was exhausting - red-faced, gasping, sat on a bench for several minutes at the end (and also in the middle). The second time was no better. The third time, I suddenly got the hang of it, and a few months later it's a breeze.You should update the first post of this thread with "golden newbie knowledge nuggets" that you've accumulated over the past year and a half.
I don't know how universal this experience is, but I wish it on everyone (the improvement, not the initial suffering). Having fully inflated tires and a seat raised to the appropriate height helps a lot.
Thanks for all the tips and encouragement!
Going to ride to work tomorrow!
I don’t know about where you all are, but in my area I really like the google maps bike feature. It does a good job of piecing together trails and roads with bike lanes.
Just bought a bike yesterday and rode it the 2.2 miles home from the shop (which will be the same commute for work, I work across the street from the bike shop, lucky me!)
I haven't hardly done anything physical in years, and am 6'2 350lbs. My heart rate hasn't been that high since college (over 10 years ago) and today my body still feels like jelly.
What's going to be the best way to ease into this so I don't give up?
So my daughter was sick for a couple days so I had to stay home with her (thus no bike commute the rest of the week).
I think it may have been a blessing in disguise because I was super worn out still, today is the first day I've felt normal again.
Will ride again tomorrow. Will plan on MWF or MTh this week, depending on how I feel Wednesday.
I got a lot of advice from people to slowly work my way up or I'll hurt myself and/or give up.
So my daughter was sick for a couple days so I had to stay home with her (thus no bike commute the rest of the week).
I think it may have been a blessing in disguise because I was super worn out still, today is the first day I've felt normal again.
Will ride again tomorrow. Will plan on MWF or MTh this week, depending on how I feel Wednesday.
I got a lot of advice from people to slowly work my way up or I'll hurt myself and/or give up.
That's a pretty good idea. I could actually bike in and have my wife pick me up on her way home from work and then I don't even need to worry about a car being left at work.
Assuming you have a car and there is parking, you might also only do one way for a while. Drive in on Monday with the car in the trunk, bike home. Bike in on Tuesday, drive home T. Drive in W, bike home W. Bike in Th, drive home Th. Then on Friday you can drive both ways, or you can modify at any point during the week to skip a day, driving with the bike in the car if you need to reset. If that feels like too much, you can even bike one way on MWF, and drive both ways on Thursday, or whatever is a better fit. Then slowly phase in more on-ways, eventually adding a two-way day here and there, until you've scaled up to 5 days of 2 way biking.
On the other side of that, I'm having great difficulty selling an old bike. It's a Jamis Sputnik fixed gear. I have it listed for $150 on Facebook and Craigslist and can't even get a message. I hate the thought of just giving the bike away, but that's what I'll end up doing if I can't sell it before my next bike arrives.
Hey all, I've got a problem that could use the collective thread's wisdom.
I have a really short commute to work, 1.5 miles. Originally my plan was to walk/bike. I had an ancient crappy mountain bike that I wasn't comfortable using around traffic, mainly because the brakes suck AND the gear shifting isn't reliable. There's a good amount of inclines/declines in the short distance. I've been walking some, but not as much as I want to. I'm determined to walk/bike more in May.
So, where should I look for a basic (cheap) used bike for commuting purposes? I tried a few bike shops, but they were still up around 300 or so. There is one large bike place around me that I haven't tried yet. For any around Dallas, it's Richardson Bike Mart. I'd like to buy one from a shop so I can use them as a resource. Even though looking for a cheap option makes me wonder about CL and similar options, I don't think that would be a good idea for someone who doesn't know anything about bikes.
What method would you suggest for looking for a bike? Also, what type should I be looking for? It would be mostly used for commuting but also similarly short trips around the neighborhood and possibly longer joy rides and/or trail rides in the future.
Just for the future, if you have a flat typically you just need a new tube. That's about 5$ and 10 minutes of work.
If there's an actual hole in the tire then the tire needs to be replaced, but you can usually put a couple layers of duct tape inside the tire over the hole and keep riding it for a while until the replacement tire is available.
Just for the future, if you have a flat typically you just need a new tube. That's about 5$ and 10 minutes of work.
If there's an actual hole in the tire then the tire needs to be replaced, but you can usually put a couple layers of duct tape inside the tire over the hole and keep riding it for a while until the replacement tire is available.
I had DH take a look at it. Apparently someone had also taken something sharp and completely shredded the wall of the tire. It’s one of the hazards of living in China and parking your bike on the street. Someone had moved my bike and shoved it between two scooters. My guess is that something sharp on one of the scooters had punctured/scraped the tire, destroying it. Even with a 50% price increase, the total came to around $25 to replace the tire and the tube.
Just for the future, if you have a flat typically you just need a new tube. That's about 5$ and 10 minutes of work.
If there's an actual hole in the tire then the tire needs to be replaced, but you can usually put a couple layers of duct tape inside the tire over the hole and keep riding it for a while until the replacement tire is available.
I had DH take a look at it. Apparently someone had also taken something sharp and completely shredded the wall of the tire. It’s one of the hazards of living in China and parking your bike on the street. Someone had moved my bike and shoved it between two scooters. My guess is that something sharp on one of the scooters had punctured/scraped the tire, destroying it. Even with a 50% price increase, the total came to around $25 to replace the tire and the tube.
Ugh, what a drag. If your bike is being subject to that kind of damage, also keep an eye on your rear derailleur hanger. This is a little piece of metal that connects your rear derailleur to the frame of the bike. They're designed to fail (so neither the frame, nor the derailleur get damaged) and often get bent when bikes get tangled together in bike racks. Once it's bent, the metal is weakened and it can break while you're riding. And when it's broken, you you get to walk home. Better to replace it before it fails on the road. Luckily the repair is as easy as using a screwdriver to unscrew the old one and screw in the new one.
If you've got the storage space, it might be worthwhile stocking a spare tire and possibly a derailleur hanger so when these items need to be replaced, you can do it easily in the evening and won't have to deal with the shop.
I had an ancient crappy mountain bike that I wasn't comfortable using around traffic, mainly because the brakes suck AND the gear shifting isn't reliable.How ancient and crappy are we talking about here?
Thanks all. After some research and talking to more knowledgeable people, I'll target a hybrid or maybe a mountain bike. I'm 6'0 (but probably shorter legs than most that height), so thinking 20-24" or a large will be a good fit. I'll spend some time looking online today.I think a 24" seat tube is probably pushing it a bit your height.
I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.
I kept bringing the wheel to my LBS where I bought the bike and they would put another spoke in until it got to 5 or 6 spokes then they got a new wheel from Giant.
Now I just had one of the spokes on the new wheel break! I brought it back to the LBS again and I’m pretty sure they’re just going to put another spoke in.
When does it end?? I moved away from the town that the bike shop is in so I can’t keep going back to that one every time a spoke breaks. Luckily I’m visiting my parents at the moment so I’m in town.
I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.
I kept bringing the wheel to my LBS where I bought the bike and they would put another spoke in until it got to 5 or 6 spokes then they got a new wheel from Giant.
Now I just had one of the spokes on the new wheel break! I brought it back to the LBS again and I’m pretty sure they’re just going to put another spoke in.
When does it end?? I moved away from the town that the bike shop is in so I can’t keep going back to that one every time a spoke breaks. Luckily I’m visiting my parents at the moment so I’m in town.
I replaced eight or nine spokes on the rear wheel of my Giant Escape before buying a whole new set of spokes, taking the entire thing apart and rebuilding it. No problems since. Giant does a lot of things right on their bikes, but my experience has been that they don't tighten the spokes in their rear wheels evenly enough, or to sufficient tension when building them.
It's really important that the spoke tension in your wheels is high enough and even all the way around. Replacing a single broken spoke on your wheel is probably a waste of time. Sure, it can be made true and will work for a little while . . . but if tension wasn't even to begin with then some spokes will be really loose and some will be too tight. Unfortunately f you've been riding a poorly tensioned wheel for a while every loose spoke on the wheel is in a weakened state because of the excess flexing it undergoes with each wheel rotation. The NDS spokes are typically at lower tension than the DS spokes on a rear wheel because of the dishing that your cassette requires, so it makes sense that those are the ones breaking first.
You're going to keep regularly popping spokes if you don't have someone go through the whole process of re-tensioning the thing.
I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.
I kept bringing the wheel to my LBS where I bought the bike and they would put another spoke in until it got to 5 or 6 spokes then they got a new wheel from Giant.
Now I just had one of the spokes on the new wheel break! I brought it back to the LBS again and I’m pretty sure they’re just going to put another spoke in.
When does it end?? I moved away from the town that the bike shop is in so I can’t keep going back to that one every time a spoke breaks. Luckily I’m visiting my parents at the moment so I’m in town.
I replaced eight or nine spokes on the rear wheel of my Giant Escape before buying a whole new set of spokes, taking the entire thing apart and rebuilding it. No problems since. Giant does a lot of things right on their bikes, but my experience has been that they don't tighten the spokes in their rear wheels evenly enough, or to sufficient tension when building them.
It's really important that the spoke tension in your wheels is high enough and even all the way around. Replacing a single broken spoke on your wheel is probably a waste of time. Sure, it can be made true and will work for a little while . . . but if tension wasn't even to begin with then some spokes will be really loose and some will be too tight. Unfortunately f you've been riding a poorly tensioned wheel for a while every loose spoke on the wheel is in a weakened state because of the excess flexing it undergoes with each wheel rotation. The NDS spokes are typically at lower tension than the DS spokes on a rear wheel because of the dishing that your cassette requires, so it makes sense that those are the ones breaking first.
You're going to keep regularly popping spokes if you don't have someone go through the whole process of re-tensioning the thing.
Yea, that seems like the case here. I actually paid the bike shop to tension and true the spokes after number 2 or 3 of the first wheel but maybe they either didn’t tension it or the damage was already done to the other spokes.
I’m a DIYer but am hesitant to purchase the tools necessary for retensioning and truing.
Maybe I should bring it to the LBS near my new place and see if they have someone who knows how to properly work on a wheel.
Yea, that seems like the case here. I actually paid the bike shop to tension and true the spokes after number 2 or 3 of the first wheel but maybe they either didn’t tension it or the damage was already done to the other spokes.
I’m a DIYer but am hesitant to purchase the tools necessary for retensioning and truing.
Maybe I should bring it to the LBS near my new place and see if they have someone who knows how to properly work on a wheel.
You can do truing with just a 3-4$ spoke wrench and a couple hours practice. It's possible to tension spokes by pitch, but is much more complicated/difficult than using a tensiometer (park tools will sell you a good one for about 100$). Those are really all the tools necessary (you can just wrap a zip tie on the fork or rear triangle next to the rim, or use the brake pads to check for trueness).
I had frequent trouble with NDS spokes in my rear wheel. As spokes were replaced, the breaking became more frequent. First time through this I bought a new set of machine built wheels. This set was a slight upgrade from my original wheels, but didn't last much longer. When the problem came back, I started researching why the spokes were breaking. The spokes were always breaking at the same place - the elbow at the hub of the NDS on the rear wheel. The absolute change in tension for a spoke with each revolution is more or less proportional to the weight on the wheel. I'm a big guy, carry my load on a rear rack, and ride fairly upright - my rear wheel was doing most of the work. With longer spokes and a greater angle from vertical, the spokes on the NDS of the wheel must have less overall tension than the spokes on the DS of the wheel, so these spokes had the greatest relative change and suffered the most fatigue with each turn of the wheel. I decided I wanted to upgrade to a larger spoke count (from 32 to 36 or 40), so a complete new wheel was in order. I wanted to build it myself, but had difficulty sourcing spokes at a good price for the small quantity I needed of each length (18-20), so eventually I decided that the cost difference for the spokes was worth paying a local wheel builder's labor. So far I've had the new wheel for over 4 years (probably 10k+ miles) and it's going strong.
I'm also a big guy at 200 lbs. Had similar problems to what you were describing. I upgraded my winter bike to a very heavy, cheapo machine built 36 spoke rear wheel and then increased the tension on all the spokes. Had no problem from that wheel over four years of riding. So for my summer bike I built myself a 32 spoke wheelset with double butted spokes and tensioned the wheels up nicely. It's been well over 10,000 km on them and no problems. They haven't even gone out of true.Buying a machine built wheel and tightening it up by hand is probably the best frugal path to a new strong wheel - machine built wheels seem to be no more expensive than buying the hub and the rim separately - the spoke are free.
Spoke count is important, especially if the wheel you've got isn't well built. A well built 32 spoke wheel should be enough for most people though. A well built 36 spoke wheel should be just about indestructible.
Weather can be wet enough to not bike?
Weather can be wet enough to not bike?
That's the attitude I need to develop.
Probably shouldn't bike through floodwaters, though. For example.
Weather can be wet enough to not bike?
That's the attitude I need to develop.
Probably shouldn't bike through floodwaters, though. For example.
Biking in wet weather just means you're already partly showered when you arrive at your destination. It's a a time saver really.
Depends on if the floodwaters are moving rapidly or not...Weather can be wet enough to not bike?
That's the attitude I need to develop.
Probably shouldn't bike through floodwaters, though. For example.
That was an adventure.
I got an auto email from work saying I had a package delivered for me in a different build a good distance away. So I got on my bike to head over. I hit a poorly-filled trench in the middle of an intersection from a bunch of construction going on in the area that popped my chain off. I pulled over and started yanking on that sucker to get it back on and completely failed. I got grease all over my hands and got the chain completely stuck to the point I couldn't physically pull it out of where it was wedged.
I walked to the bike maintenance area and sweet talked them into helping, even though they are only supposed to work on work-owned bike. Even they had trouble. They finally fixed me up, I got back on, went to the building to check on my package.
There was no package for me. I later inquired about it and was told it was a system bug sending out bad information.
Hadn't seen it mentioned, but this Friday is Bike to Work Day: https://www.bikeleague.org/content/bike-month-dates-events-0 (https://www.bikeleague.org/content/bike-month-dates-events-0).
I bike roughly two-thirds of the time to the bus stop (a little more than a mile each way), but for Friday I'm psyching myself up to ride the 23 miles to work for the first time (whether or not I ride back or take the bus is TBD). Helps that there are goodies being offered along the way in my city. Hope to see a large Mustachian turnout on Friday.
I got grease all over my hands
What do you guys eat to keep up your energy?
As far as what to eat . . . carbs!
What do you guys eat to keep up your energy?I commute a similar distance, 11 miles per day if I take the shortest route each way. No serious elevation (like 200ft).
Lately I’ve had no energy and I think it’s because I’m not eating enough or the right stuff.
I bike 12 miles round trip 5 days a week and go to the gym about 4 days a week.
I’ve been having a bowl of oatmeal with almond milk and a banana when I wake up, then 2 hard boiled eggs and a banana at work, then after I get home from the gym I’ll have something different for dinner.
I’ve thrown in an 8 oz whey protein shake at work which helps me stay not ravenous while at work.
I sold my car a couple weeks ago and just started my first day of bike commuting. My commute is just over 8 miles one way, majority being on a paved bike trail.I attended this lecture years ago on how to pack a suitcase for travel and the person advised rolling your clothes together to reduce wrinkling. I’ve used that pretty successfully when traveling overseas (back when I still owned stuff that could wrinkle, that is). So take your pants and shirt and lay them on top of each other flat, throw in socks and knickers and whatnot, maybe fold in half for size, and then roll that whole thing up like a burrito.
However, I need some advice. I use a waterproof roll-top backback to carry my clothes (dress shoes, pants, shirt, undershirt, underwear, socks, tie, watch, belt), lunch box, phone, wallet, and body-cleaning wipes and deodorant. I know most people use racks and pannier bags, but I didn't want to always have the racks on my road bike.
But my main issue is with the logistics of changing clothes. What's the best way to store all my dress clothes in the bag without wrinkling them? Also, what do you guys do with your sweaty biking clothes while at work? I have no place to hang them out to dry, so they get balled up and end up stinking. Then I put on the same smelly clothes for the ride back home. Is there any way to mitigate this? The ride to work isn't so bad, because it's before 6 AM and the sun hasn't yet come up, but the ride home in the 90+ degree humid weather can get pretty brutal.
As always, any advice is GREATLY appreciated!
I sold my car a couple weeks ago and just started my first day of bike commuting. My commute is just over 8 miles one way, majority being on a paved bike trail.I attended this lecture years ago on how to pack a suitcase for travel and the person advised rolling your clothes together to reduce wrinkling. I’ve used that pretty successfully when traveling overseas (back when I still owned stuff that could wrinkle, that is). So take your pants and shirt and lay them on top of each other flat, throw in socks and knickers and whatnot, maybe fold in half for size, and then roll that whole thing up like a burrito.
However, I need some advice. I use a waterproof roll-top backback to carry my clothes (dress shoes, pants, shirt, undershirt, underwear, socks, tie, watch, belt), lunch box, phone, wallet, and body-cleaning wipes and deodorant. I know most people use racks and pannier bags, but I didn't want to always have the racks on my road bike.
But my main issue is with the logistics of changing clothes. What's the best way to store all my dress clothes in the bag without wrinkling them? Also, what do you guys do with your sweaty biking clothes while at work? I have no place to hang them out to dry, so they get balled up and end up stinking. Then I put on the same smelly clothes for the ride back home. Is there any way to mitigate this? The ride to work isn't so bad, because it's before 6 AM and the sun hasn't yet come up, but the ride home in the 90+ degree humid weather can get pretty brutal.
As always, any advice is GREATLY appreciated!
I’ve hung my biking stuff to dry over my filling cabinet or on the back of my chair at work after particularly rainy days. I’ve also just left them hanging on a shelf in the ladies’ room. Can you just commander some space like that?
I sold my car a couple weeks ago and just started my first day of bike commuting. My commute is just over 8 miles one way, majority being on a paved bike trail.
However, I need some advice. I use a waterproof roll-top backback to carry my clothes (dress shoes, pants, shirt, undershirt, underwear, socks, tie, watch, belt), lunch box, phone, wallet, and body-cleaning wipes and deodorant. I know most people use racks and pannier bags, but I didn't want to always have the racks on my road bike.
But my main issue is with the logistics of changing clothes. What's the best way to store all my dress clothes in the bag without wrinkling them? Also, what do you guys do with your sweaty biking clothes while at work? I have no place to hang them out to dry, so they get balled up and end up stinking. Then I put on the same smelly clothes for the ride back home. Is there any way to mitigate this? The ride to work isn't so bad, because it's before 6 AM and the sun hasn't yet come up, but the ride home in the 90+ degree humid weather can get pretty brutal.
As always, any advice is GREATLY appreciated!
I understand not wanting a rack on a road back, but you'll be WAY less sweaty if you get those clothes off your back. I've never tried them, but I wonder if the seat mounted bike racks might work for your use case & let you throw a pannier on. It's incredible how much more comfortable I am riding without that stuff on my back.
Panniers also stick out from your bike and create some noticeable drag . . . having your stuff behind you is better aerodynamically, which means you don't have to work as hard (or you go faster for the same effort).
Hi All,
Thought I would jump in as well. My commute sounds somewhat similar to Geographer, it would be slightly over 8 miles one-way, however it would be broken up into two 4 mile rides by a slight train/rail ride. So it would be 4 miles from house to rail, then 4 miles from rail to work and vice versa. I'm not fully committed as I still have my car, so I'm looking to maybe start at 1 day a week and slightly ramp up, however I'm hesitant as I am a very new biker and want to get a spare tube and practice changing a flat as I have never done that before.
I've been biking to the grocery store for 6 months now, but that's not too impressive as I only live about .4 miles away. I was using an old beat down mountain bike that definitely could not make the commute, but I just pulled the trigger on a new bike. I guess it's a somewhat mustachian purchase (once I get the value out of commuting), however I did it in a non-mustachian manner. Bought a Trek FX3 Disc for $815 https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-3-disc/p/21572/ (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-3-disc/p/21572/) Any thoughts?
Also, kind of an impulse kind of guy so I took it out for a 16 miles ride the day I bought it and it kicked my ass (physically and literally), I saw a mention of the padded shorts, any suggestions?
Thanks for the awesome recommendations, guys. Sadly I work in a open workspace with several people I don't know too well, so there's no way to hang my sweaty clothes in my office. BUT seeing these suggestions gave me the idea that I could hang my clothes over my bike in the parking garage and use it as a makeshift drying rack. I think this will be way better than balling them up in my bag until I put them back on for the ride home!
Also, kind of an impulse kind of guy so I took it out for a 16 miles ride the day I bought it and it kicked my ass (physically and literally), I saw a mention of the padded shorts, any suggestions?
Also, kind of an impulse kind of guy so I took it out for a 16 miles ride the day I bought it and it kicked my ass (physically and literally), I saw a mention of the padded shorts, any suggestions?
Bike shorts go on sale now and again, so just figure out what size you are and pick some up when that happens. Any bike shorts are better than no bike shorts.
I understand not wanting a rack on a road back, but you'll be WAY less sweaty if you get those clothes off your back. I've never tried them, but I wonder if the seat mounted bike racks might work for your use case & let you throw a pannier on. It's incredible how much more comfortable I am riding without that stuff on my back.
Thanks for the awesome recommendations, guys. Sadly I work in a open workspace with several people I don't know too well, so there's no way to hang my sweaty clothes in my office. BUT seeing these suggestions gave me the idea that I could hang my clothes over my bike in the parking garage and use it as a makeshift drying rack. I think this will be way better than balling them up in my bag until I put them back on for the ride home!
Is your parking garage secured? I would hate for your gross clothes to get swiped!
The “butt shorts”, as my husband calls them, do look and feel ridiculous, but they help. I also find that over the course of several weeks of riding my parts sort of toughen up and get used to the abuse. I can often go without the padding now.Also, kind of an impulse kind of guy so I took it out for a 16 miles ride the day I bought it and it kicked my ass (physically and literally), I saw a mention of the padded shorts, any suggestions?
For any rides over about 10 miles, buy the padded shorts. I still laugh at myself when I put them on, but it sure beats the pain in the ass that results from riding without them.
Anyone have any smart ideas about chafing? I don’t usually get anything but the other week in the shower I noticed I had scabs where my upper thighs must contact the edge of the saddle. Maybe I did a casual ride wearing regular pants at some point and that wasn’t a good combo? I’m mystified.
You already bought the bike so it doesn't really matter what we think now. ;) Probably wouldn't have been my suggestion to get a new one, as Trek bikes are a dime a dozen on Craigslist, but what's done is done.
The bike you bought looks great. For $800, if you use it even semi regularly to commute, you'll easily recoup the cash in reduced driving costs. I also think buying new is a good option for a newb. You know the bike you've got is in great shape and most shops include a basic fit and some tune up services as well. Plus, presumably they sold you the right size frame, so you don't have to worry about that.
I’ve never felt uncomfortable there while riding, which is why it was such a surprise to see chafing. It has only happened once or twice, which is why I’m thinking it might be related to jumping randomly on the bike for a short ride wearing whatever instead of leggings/bike shorts.
Question for anyone who's tried to bike, or exercise, in smoky air. Any recommendations on masks?It looks like the first one is a real N95, at a quick glance at least. The second one is the kind of face mask I wore at work for personal safety and it works great, but you need to buy the cartridges and the correct cartridges. They usually come in categories like organics, particulates, etc. You could also go to a local Grainger and ask some questions to help you select the right one if you have one near by.
I live in the PNW and smoke season is starting up already. It's mild right now, but if the past 3 years are any indication it will soon be much worse. In past years, I just didn't bike when it was very smoky, but I'd like to try biking through it this year. Effective masks seem to come in 2 styles, a "sport" version and a "work" version. Do the "sport" styles actually filter well enough? Or would it be the equivalent of wearing one of those useless paper masks?
https://www.amazon.ca/Meanhoo-Cycling-Anti-dust-Filter-Neoprene/dp/B01C9OMFZW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RUJAJGCPEA9Y&keywords=smoke+masks+for+fire&qid=1559322681&s=gateway&sprefix=smoke+mask%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.ca/Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator-6200-medium/dp/B007JZ1N00/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=2RUJAJGCPEA9Y&keywords=smoke+masks+for+fire&qid=1559322809&s=gateway&sprefix=smoke+mask%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-18-spons&psc=1
Ah yes, pregnancy.I’ve never felt uncomfortable there while riding, which is why it was such a surprise to see chafing. It has only happened once or twice, which is why I’m thinking it might be related to jumping randomly on the bike for a short ride wearing whatever instead of leggings/bike shorts.
If it's not really bothering you, it may not be worth addressing. I get stuff like this from time to time and simply live with it as long as it's not getting worse or causing a lot of discomfort. I also find things like this happen more frequently as the weather gets warmer and I sweat more during each ride.
I think you're also pregnant? Maybe you've gained some weight and it's causing parts to rub that didn't before?
Anybody know if it's true that biking can lead to male infertility? We've been trying to get pregnant for many months now without success, and I bike a lot. And even started bike commuting daily. I'd consider us a very healthy couple, so we're surprised it's been taking this long!
Hopefully it's just a myth!
@ysette9 as someone who gets running-chafing, the best solution I have found is Bodyglide, which was recommended by a lot of cyclists. As a mustachian, I must say just buy the regular version, not the "ladies" version which is functionally identical but costs the same for 1/3 less in a pink casing. [yay pink tax]. For healing the chaffing, sudocream in the grey tub is amazing and will also come in handy for dealing with nappyrash in the future.Thanks for the recommendation. For now I’ve switched running shorts to one that has fabric on the areas in question. My sincere hope is that this problem will go away once I am no longer pregnant.
Anybody know if it's true that biking can lead to male infertility? We've been trying to get pregnant for many months now without success, and I bike a lot. And even started bike commuting daily. I'd consider us a very healthy couple, so we're surprised it's been taking this long!
Hopefully it's just a myth!
As usual, Sheldon Brown has the answers you're looking for. :PSheldon Brown, the man who likes fixies because freewheeling makes your legs lazy?
http://sheldonbrown.com/blog/tag/sandals/ (http://sheldonbrown.com/blog/tag/sandals/)
As usual, Sheldon Brown has the answers you're looking for. :PSheldon Brown, the man who likes fixies because freewheeling makes your legs lazy?
http://sheldonbrown.com/blog/tag/sandals/ (http://sheldonbrown.com/blog/tag/sandals/)
My dear husband added a basket on the back of my bike so I don’t have to wear a backpack. Excellent. However there isn’t quite enough room and he had to love my saddle forward. I’m sitting more upright now, which is good for my growing belly, but I’m putting more weight on my hands. My palms are fingers are going numb when I ride. What am I doing wrong.
I think I need to go find some sort of alternate fitting to allow the basket to be further back. The metal rod thingies that came with it are too short.
My dear husband added a basket on the back of my bike so I don’t have to wear a backpack. Excellent. However there isn’t quite enough room and he had to love my saddle forward. I’m sitting more upright now, which is good for my growing belly, but I’m putting more weight on my hands. My palms are fingers are going numb when I ride. What am I doing wrong.
I think I need to go find some sort of alternate fitting to allow the basket to be further back. The metal rod thingies that came with it are too short.
Saddle position on a bicycle should not be modified to accommodate accouterments.
There are a variety of ways to jerry rig a solution to your problem, but honestly I'd just take the basket back and get a rack that fits your bike properly. Once you have that you can attach just about anything to the rack (including baskets).
Yesterday, rode in Chicago weather, 16F, equal to about -9C, which would be a new low for me.
It was clear, but just cold.
Today was only my 3rd day biking in 2019, mainly due to snow rather than cold. Also had a few airports trips around work I had to make.
There are 251 working days for me in 2019, not counting vacation days. My goal is 200/251 days biked for 2019. I will remove 1 day from both numerator and denominator for each vacation day I take.
So far I'm only 3/8 after two weeks.
I love the idea of keeping track of the fractional days choosing a Mustachian travel option. I'll see if I can keep track this year as well. So far I'm 4/5 using the bike and public transportation. 80% seems like a reasonable goal, in that there are typically some days I more-or-less have to drive.
You're welcome to join us in this thread! It's all about tracking frequency of Mustachian transportation - @Boofinator started it after the exchange you just quoted. https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/throw-down-the-gauntlet/mustachian-transportation-2019/msg2405653/ (https://forum.mrmoneymustache.com/throw-down-the-gauntlet/mustachian-transportation-2019/msg2405653/)
Yesterday, rode in Chicago weather, 16F, equal to about -9C, which would be a new low for me.
It was clear, but just cold.
Today was only my 3rd day biking in 2019, mainly due to snow rather than cold. Also had a few airports trips around work I had to make.
There are 251 working days for me in 2019, not counting vacation days. My goal is 200/251 days biked for 2019. I will remove 1 day from both numerator and denominator for each vacation day I take.
So far I'm only 3/8 after two weeks.
I love the idea of keeping track of the fractional days choosing a Mustachian travel option. I'll see if I can keep track this year as well. So far I'm 4/5 using the bike and public transportation. 80% seems like a reasonable goal, in that there are typically some days I more-or-less have to drive.
I had a better month in June, but it was still only 16/20 bike to work days. I had been meaning to record here, to keep myself accountable, but rather than hijack the thread, I started a journal to track myself. I put the link in my sig.
Does anyone bike in sandals? I work in a super casual office and normally wear shorts and flip flops in the summer, but flip flops aren't great for biking in so I've been wearing socks & sneakers for my commute. My ride isn't too long, only about 4 miles, and thus far I've avoided the need to bring in a full change of clothes. The past few days have been really hot while biking in and it's taken me longer to cool down after my ride and even with bringing new shirt to change into I'm sweaty and hot for the first part of my day.
I've thought about bringing my flip flops and then changing into them but don't want to have stanky, sweaty shoes & socks sitting in my bag all day, so I'm wondering if a pair of (non-flip flop) sandals would help my feet stay cool on the ride in, something like these Keens but ideally less expensive:
(https://cdn.runrepeat.com/i/keen/25984/keen-newport-h2-sandalias-deportivas-para-hombre-navy-medium-grey-48-hombre-navy-medium-grey-ffaf-600.jpg)
I don't clip in to my pedals so most of the results when I googled "biking sandals" weren't very helpful. Any experience or recommendations from you guys would be great!
Just had occasion to re-read my first post on this thread, when I hoped to bike to work 1x per week. It's been almost 2 years since I purchased my bike, and I'm thrilled to say that I've moved closer to work and am now shooting for biking 90% of the time.
I am also buying my first pair of real bike shorts. The heat wave has made it clear that chafing is a real threat. I don't need butt padding, but I do need them to be long, as I am quite tall and the yoga shorts I have ride up. Any recs?
(Side note: rolling my eyes at the number of Amazon listings that boast "tummy control" or "sexy." I'm just trying to commute!)
I am 31 weeks now and still biking, though I’m using the highest setting of assist on my ebike and at a level low enough that I mostly never break a sweat. My plan has always been to keep going until I don’t feel comfortable doing it anymore, and so far I still feel good. Well, we good as anyone 31 weeks pregnant can be, which is often not great, but not related to biking.When I was a kid, we biked to the park for swimming lessons daily much of the summer - even the year my youngest sister was born in early August. Mom pulled a bike trailer filled with two toddlers, a gallon or two of water, and a picnic lunch for five each day until within a week or so of my sister's birth (it was flat terrain and we didn't travel any faster than I could ride at age 6).
Just had occasion to re-read my first post on this thread, when I hoped to bike to work 1x per week. It's been almost 2 years since I purchased my bike, and I'm thrilled to say that I've moved closer to work and am now shooting for biking 90% of the time.*high five*
I am also buying my first pair of real bike shorts. The heat wave has made it clear that chafing is a real threat. I don't need butt padding, but I do need them to be long, as I am quite tall and the yoga shorts I have ride up. Any recs?Getting away from cotton makes a big difference. Target sells some Champion C9 undies that are 93% Nylon, 7% Spandex. Perfect if you don't need the butt padding.
(Side note: rolling my eyes at the number of Amazon listings that boast "tummy control" or "sexy." I'm just trying to commute!)
This was part 2 of setting myself up to bike in the rain. Part 1 was a rain fly for my rack bag (I hate getting my bags wet).Mudguards / fenders + Cycling Overshoes
I still would like to figure out the shoes... I don't mind getting my clothes or myself wet but am not a fan of soaking wet shoes (or bags).
Maybe a pair of sandals like the ones shown above, except cheaper and non SPD.
Do you have a link of what these cycling overshoes look like or on Amazon?
Sometimes I encounter that if I am exercising on something like an elliptical and I am not picking up my feet frequently enough. I presume it is from having pressure on my feet in the same position for too long. Could it be something like that or do you think it is the shoes?
Is your entire foot numb, foot + ankle, just the sole, or the top of the foot?
The sandals discussion on the previous page of this thread has a link to a Sheldon Brown blog article on sandals. Some people wear them year round. There’s a photo of Sheldon in sandals on a New Year’s Day ride in Boston.
When I experience this on the elliptical it happens well within my 30-min workout. Not saying this is what is happening to you, but it isn’t out of the question. I hope the sandals helpSometimes I encounter that if I am exercising on something like an elliptical and I am not picking up my feet frequently enough. I presume it is from having pressure on my feet in the same position for too long. Could it be something like that or do you think it is the shoes?
Hard to say. I'll try sandals and see if that has a positive effect.
The rides are not long either. 25 minutes each way to work. To already be having issues is a concern.
When I experience this on the elliptical it happens well within my 30-min workout. Not saying this is what is happening to you, but it isn’t out of the question. I hope the sandals helpSometimes I encounter that if I am exercising on something like an elliptical and I am not picking up my feet frequently enough. I presume it is from having pressure on my feet in the same position for too long. Could it be something like that or do you think it is the shoes?
Hard to say. I'll try sandals and see if that has a positive effect.
The rides are not long either. 25 minutes each way to work. To already be having issues is a concern.
Also, this hasn't seemed to be addressed here yet, but sunscreen is really important. I've gotten some weird ass tan lines from cycling, but I tan extremely easily anyway. Lately, I've been enjoying Blue Lizard mineral sunscreens for face and body. Absorbs quickly, not greasy, minimal white cast. Sunscreen is imperative if you want to avoid that leathery skin look later in life. Or if you just burn easily.
Is your entire foot numb, foot + ankle, just the sole, or the top of the foot?
Just the toes. And the three smaller ones. Rest of the foot is fine. Very strange, but annoying sensation.
I used to have toe clips on my pedals which were a bit restrictive and could lead to numbness for longer rides. Eventually I decided that they just weren't worth having, so now ride with regular platform pedals (with a decent amount of grip due to the short vertical studs around the edges). I haven't yet tried fancy clipless pedals and shoes yet.
Sunglasses are also imperative. Just like you should never cycle without a helmet, you shouldn't attempt cycling without sunglasses or eye protection of some sort. Road junk and debris WILL get into your eyes, even if it's not a windy day. Ask me how I know this. If you can get sunglasses that curve and minimize exposure, that's even better. Because you will definitely get road junk flying into your eyes from the sides, too.
Completely agree. There isn't many things more important than being able to see while you're biking.
I wear safety glasses, they're so inexpensive it's ridiculous:
https://www.discountsafetygear.com/rugged-blue-diablo-safety-glasses.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=470315839917&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-KfXmLv04wIVk7fsCh0MjwjFEAYYCCABEgIUe_D_BwE
Great idea! I do wonder though if they're still safe during crashes though? For instance, I know some glasses manufacturers, like the brand Smith, make ones where they don't shatter upon impact when you crash.
It takes a little while, @Itrembac, or at least it did for me. A week not to be entirely miserable, and then several months of slowly getting better at it before I wasn't exhausted by Friday. And my trip is only about 3 miles! I biked about half the days in January; I haven't missed a day yet in August. You're making progress, even if it's invisible right now.
Well, its been a few weeks, and my legs feel like jelly. Figured they would be feeling stronger!
My distances are not that extreme either. My commute to work each way is less than 4 miles. There are hills, but nothing too crazy.
Humblebrag time: I finally got my twenty-mile (biweekly) commute under 1.5 hours (13.3 mph / 21.5 kph). Still haven't figured out how to ride without hand numbness since I purchased my first drop bar bike. Maybe I'll need to splurge on gloves?
Humblebrag time: I finally got my twenty-mile (biweekly) commute under 1.5 hours (13.3 mph / 21.5 kph). Still haven't figured out how to ride without hand numbness since I purchased my first drop bar bike. Maybe I'll need to splurge on gloves?
Yes, gloves are a good plan. Get the ones will gel pads. Also double check your bike fit. It's also good to switch up your hand position from time to time on the bars to move the pressure points around.
Legs be damned. I get very upset when my average commute speed drops below 30 kph. :P
Thank you both for the advice. Resisted gloves because I never needed them with the flat bar, but realize now that gloves will perform the same function on my new bike as the padded grips did on my old bike.
I've resisted getting fitted (I bought my bike used), because I'm a cheap ass. I think I will begin to start messing with the geometric variables if the gloves don't help and see if that relieves the numbness. As for the tire pressures, I usually aim for the lower number on the sidewall (I'm about 160 lb / 73 kg). As for the different tire pressures front to rear, I've read conflicting advice in this department, with the idea that front tire pressures need to be able to accommodate safe emergency stops and fast downhill runs, both of which cause significant weight transfer to the front.
What size tires are you running? If your bike frame can accommodate it, moving up a size (25 to 28 or going from 28 to 32) will let you run lower pressures and act as better shock absorbers.
You can also give double wrapping your bars a shot if you don't want to buy gloves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkb5LQ7uhok (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkb5LQ7uhok). I double wrap my winter bike's handlebars and find it is much more cushy than regular single layers of bar tape.
As far as messing with fit - do this first. If the issue is fit, then gloves/bar tape isn't going to be a band-aid over a gaping flesh wound. Tinkering with an allen key for a few hours on a Saturday is the cheapest (and therefore best) place to start.
Today was my first day riding a bike to work! Got a bike yesterday, spent some time yesterday just getting used to riding a bike again, and then rode it this morning. I just started working here and it's only a 1.3 mile ride from my house. So far, everything has been going really great - roads are pretty paved in this area and most roads have a bike lane. If they don't, drivers are used to sharing the road with bikers and I haven't encountered any jerks yet (I know, it's only been a day, but I'm excited!)
Yesterday I probably rode a total of about 3 miles, and so far today I've rode a total of 3.3 miles (commute to work + other riding beforehand). My legs are the tiniest bit jelly but the biggest thing is that my sit bones hurts. I spoke to another cyclist this morning and he told me to give it a week. I'm hoping that's true because otherwise, this whole biking thing is going to be a piece of cake!
I've been thinking of getting an e-bike recently, but I can't decide if it's worth the cost. My commute is just 9-10 miles each way, depending on the route, and our new neighborhood is much hillier than our old neighborhood, increasing my reluctance to bike places. I thought an e-bike would help with that, but I'm hesitant to drop too much money on something I'm not sure I will use enough.
Some considerations:
-My work doesn't have any bike racks or storage, so I won't have anywhere secure to store it
-I would be riding in the dark more, which makes me nervous
-I would have to wake up earlier and get home later, because my commute would about double in time - I don't currently bike for exercise, to this would not replace other workout time, it is just extra time coming out of chores and relaxation, which I already don't have enough time for
-The route is about half on trails and half on roads, some of them heavy traffic roads. I haven't checked for bike lanes, but I'd be surprised if they had them. Trying to avoid the major roads would add further time and distance.
-Besides work, the library is a decent biking distance, I usually do groceries on the way home (but might not pass the good stores on the bike route), family is all too far to bike, most other things we use public transit
I currently haven't biked at all since moving here, and I feel bad about it but I'm having trouble overcoming the hills and the increased distance. I also recently decreased my monthly personal spend to funnel more money into house repairs, so I'd be saving up for many months to have enough personal spend for even a basic bike or conversion kit, which is also a bit demoralizing.
Convince me?
Biking to work is not appropriate for everyone in every situation, but I'll play devil's advocate.I don't think our site security would be happy with the 'image' that leaves for guests to the site, unfortunately. So I would need to find somewhere secure that is also not visible to any of the main entrances.
-Definitely need secure storage, in my opinion. Even locking up to a fence or pole would be enough to deter potential thieves.
-Riding in the dark is not as fun, but a good set of lights can be bought for less than $100 (a minor outlay when considering overall cost). The new lithium/USB lights are great and eliminate regular battery purchases.I don't think I'd be allowed to/should go that fast on the multi-use trails, as it would be dangerous to pedestrians or slower cyclists. On the roads it's mostly stoplights. The time increase also accounts for taking a safer, longer route than I take in the car.
-Are you sure your commute would be double-time on an E-bike? You'll be traveling 20+ mph, and only needing to stop the same number of times or less than cars do.
-Being able to avoid major roads is a huge stipulation for me. I thought there was no way it could be done for my commute, until I did some research and found dedicated bike trails that avoid 90% of the roads (and all major roads) and wide bike lanes for the rest. So I agree, having to ride major roads without bike lanes would be a deal-breaker for me, but hopefully your city has a few amenities you aren't yet aware of.The route I'm looking at already includes a large proportion of multi-use trails, but the final section to get to the more industrial area has fewer options. I'm still looking, but not optimistic.
-Hills are mostly irrelevant on an E-bike. I think the best way to piss off a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them on an E-bike up a hill (speaking tongue-in-cheek as one of those lycra riders).
Here's my recommendation. Pick one day (preferably soon before it gets too dark in the morning, but it could wait til late spring if that works better), and just ride your regular bike to and/from work. Just one day. This will force you to really analyze the routes and other logistics, and will give you the general idea of what it's like to bike to work from your current neighborhood. Then see if you enjoy it enough to do again. If the answer is yes, but you need to get there faster, then consider buying an E-bike.
Here's my recommendation. Pick one day (preferably soon before it gets too dark in the morning, but it could wait til late spring if that works better), and just ride your regular bike to and/from work. Just one day. This will force you to really analyze the routes and other logistics, and will give you the general idea of what it's like to bike to work from your current neighborhood. Then see if you enjoy it enough to do again. If the answer is yes, but you need to get there faster, then consider buying an E-bike.Don't forget to subtract any difficulty climbing the hills when you think about if you enjoyed it enough to do it again. The e-bike will help most with hill climbing and accelerating from stops.
I've been thinking of getting an e-bike recently, but I can't decide if it's worth the cost. My commute is just 9-10 miles each way, depending on the route, and our new neighborhood is much hillier than our old neighborhood, increasing my reluctance to bike places. I thought an e-bike would help with that, but I'm hesitant to drop too much money on something I'm not sure I will use enough.
Some considerations:
-My work doesn't have any bike racks or storage, so I won't have anywhere secure to store it
-I would be riding in the dark more, which makes me nervous
-I would have to wake up earlier and get home later, because my commute would about double in time - I don't currently bike for exercise, to this would not replace other workout time, it is just extra time coming out of chores and relaxation, which I already don't have enough time for
-The route is about half on trails and half on roads, some of them heavy traffic roads. I haven't checked for bike lanes, but I'd be surprised if they had them. Trying to avoid the major roads would add further time and distance.
-Besides work, the library is a decent biking distance, I usually do groceries on the way home (but might not pass the good stores on the bike route), family is all too far to bike, most other things we use public transit
I currently haven't biked at all since moving here, and I feel bad about it but I'm having trouble overcoming the hills and the increased distance. I also recently decreased my monthly personal spend to funnel more money into house repairs, so I'd be saving up for many months to have enough personal spend for even a basic bike or conversion kit, which is also a bit demoralizing.
Convince me?
I don't think our site security would be happy with the 'image' that leaves for guests to the site, unfortunately. So I would need to find somewhere secure that is also not visible to any of the main entrances.
We're also considering an e-bike for my wife, so I'm interested in everyone's experiences as well.
We only have a ~4.5 mile commute to work but she has knee issues from an old sports injury that gets aggravated by biking. She can usually do a few miles at a time but any longer than that can be dicey. What's bad about it is that it doesn't hurt in the moment, but if she pushes it too far on a bike ride it can put her in unbearable pain for the next day or two afterwards. Anyway, we have a cool bike sharing (https://madison.bcycle.com/home) service in town with e-bikes so we're gonna take them for a test ride some time, and if the e-assist helps her knee we might pull the trigger on buying one, so any experiences or recommendations would be super!
Today was my first day riding a bike to work! Got a bike yesterday, spent some time yesterday just getting used to riding a bike again, and then rode it this morning. I just started working here and it's only a 1.3 mile ride from my house. So far, everything has been going really great - roads are pretty paved in this area and most roads have a bike lane. If they don't, drivers are used to sharing the road with bikers and I haven't encountered any jerks yet (I know, it's only been a day, but I'm excited!)
Yesterday I probably rode a total of about 3 miles, and so far today I've rode a total of 3.3 miles (commute to work + other riding beforehand). My legs are the tiniest bit jelly but the biggest thing is that my sit bones hurts. I spoke to another cyclist this morning and he told me to give it a week. I'm hoping that's true because otherwise, this whole biking thing is going to be a piece of cake!
I miss this thread! I went and had a baby so no biking to work for me for a while, and no biking at all in the short term. My poor ebike is left abandoned in the garden.
I agree with @katscratch: I LOVE my ebike. I am so-so about regular biking by that extra assist is just plain fun. My ride to work is around ten miles each way and is a nice commute with the assist. It would be impossible without. Not so much the physical aspect, though that is significant, but I would never be able to fit in the time of commuting on a regular bike.
I agree with the idea of renting one for a week to test drive the idea. I got an ebike because my work had a program of lending me an bike for six months to commute with. So I got the bug and couldn’t stop when I had to turn it back in.
No disagreement from me. I can’t stand minivans but I do look with some lust upon the ebike version of minivans with the bench on the back where you can seat two kids, one in front of the other.I miss this thread! I went and had a baby so no biking to work for me for a while, and no biking at all in the short term. My poor ebike is left abandoned in the garden.
I agree with @katscratch: I LOVE my ebike. I am so-so about regular biking by that extra assist is just plain fun. My ride to work is around ten miles each way and is a nice commute with the assist. It would be impossible without. Not so much the physical aspect, though that is significant, but I would never be able to fit in the time of commuting on a regular bike.
I agree with the idea of renting one for a week to test drive the idea. I got an ebike because my work had a program of lending me an bike for six months to commute with. So I got the bug and couldn’t stop when I had to turn it back in.
I'm basically of the mind that the e-bike is the perfect mode of transportation. It needs to take over the world.
No disagreement from me. I can’t stand minivans but I do look with some lust upon the ebike version of minivans with the bench on the back where you can seat two kids, one in front of the other.I miss this thread! I went and had a baby so no biking to work for me for a while, and no biking at all in the short term. My poor ebike is left abandoned in the garden.
I agree with @katscratch: I LOVE my ebike. I am so-so about regular biking by that extra assist is just plain fun. My ride to work is around ten miles each way and is a nice commute with the assist. It would be impossible without. Not so much the physical aspect, though that is significant, but I would never be able to fit in the time of commuting on a regular bike.
I agree with the idea of renting one for a week to test drive the idea. I got an ebike because my work had a program of lending me an bike for six months to commute with. So I got the bug and couldn’t stop when I had to turn it back in.
I'm basically of the mind that the e-bike is the perfect mode of transportation. It needs to take over the world.
No disagreement from me. I can’t stand minivans but I do look with some lust upon the ebike version of minivans with the bench on the back where you can seat two kids, one in front of the other.I don't even have kids and I want a longtail bike (I'd probably find a way to give a ride to a niece or nephew occasionally). There's a Yuba Boda Boda parked in the bike parking at my work regularly. I have yet to see the rider. I see other longtails out and about sometimes. I caught a glimpse of a local dad dad who rode a Yuba Mundo with three kids at a Bike Fest a few years ago.
I think the best way to piss off a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them on an E-bike up a hill (speaking tongue-in-cheek as one of those lycra riders).
Let's not generalize a group of cyclists. I wear lycra on the weekends and hot days. e-Bikes and their riders aren't an irritant at all. I've been passed up while going uphill by a number of things, but don't bear them any ill will.
I think the best way to piss off a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them on an E-bike up a hill (speaking tongue-in-cheek as one of those lycra riders).
I think the best way to piss of a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them uphill on a cargo bike with 60+lbs of kids...
Let's not generalize a group of cyclists. I wear lycra on the weekends and hot days. e-Bikes and their riders aren't an irritant at all. I've been passed up while going uphill by a number of things, but don't bear them any ill will.
I think the best way to piss off a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them on an E-bike up a hill (speaking tongue-in-cheek as one of those lycra riders).
I think the best way to piss of a lycra-clad biker is to zoom past them uphill on a cargo bike with 60+lbs of kids...
I love my road bike, but understand that the same choice isn't optimal for everyone. Seeing more cyclists riding on the streets is always a positive sign.
QuestionI usually do but try to gauge how severe it seems before purposely going out in a thunderstorm.
Do you all ride during thunder storms?
If so, what gear do you recommend?Same as you would wear in the rain with no thunder/lightning.
Ended up driving to the gym this morning because we were in the middle of a thunder storm, but trying to stick to biking as much as possible for all local trips.That's reasonable.
@Kmp2 welcome back to the commuting ranks! Your posts in the past cycling threads were definitely an influence on my decision to give up my car and make a go year-round with the cargo bike :)
Question
Do you all ride during thunder storms?
If so, what gear do you recommend?
Ended up driving to the gym this morning because we were in the middle of a thunder storm, but trying to stick to biking as much as possible for all local trips.
Question
Do you all ride during thunder storms?
If so, what gear do you recommend?
Ended up driving to the gym this morning because we were in the middle of a thunder storm, but trying to stick to biking as much as possible for all local trips.
There is a lot of evidence showing that e-bikes generally end up being more exercise for normal people (read non roadie/mountain bikers) because they lower the barriers to getting out and allow you to go further - both of which increase your total exercise.
Question
Do you all ride during thunder storms?
Question
Do you all ride during thunder storms?
If so, what gear do you recommend?
Ended up driving to the gym this morning because we were in the middle of a thunder storm, but trying to stick to biking as much as possible for all local trips.
I ride in the rain all the time.
Most important gear is a bright rear and front light. Next would be fenders for your bike. Next would be a bright fluorescent coloured jacket. Waterproof is nice, but the odds are you're going to get wet cycling in the rain.
What do you all do to prevent rusting of your chair and cassette after riding in the rain.
I just had to have my cassette replaced by the LBS, due to the rain over the summer and rusting.
It's also a bit chilly for me at around mid to low 60 degrees F, but when I tried wearing a jacket I got sweaty. Maybe because it was a rain jacket, but it was advertised to be 'breathable.' Not really sure what I'm supposed to do here to be kind of comfortable, but not too warm.
It's also a bit chilly for me at around mid to low 60 degrees F, but when I tried wearing a jacket I got sweaty. Maybe because it was a rain jacket, but it was advertised to be 'breathable.' Not really sure what I'm supposed to do here to be kind of comfortable, but not too warm.
It's also a bit chilly for me at around mid to low 60 degrees F, but when I tried wearing a jacket I got sweaty. Maybe because it was a rain jacket, but it was advertised to be 'breathable.' Not really sure what I'm supposed to do here to be kind of comfortable, but not too warm.
My experience (and I understand everyone is different) is that the low 60's feel cold when I start riding, but I'm plenty warm after the first fifteen minutes with my summer gear on. This was the case earlier this week when I was drenched on the way to work. (Not really sure if this is a suggestion, other than to maybe try riding without a jacket at those temps if you haven't before and see if the discomfort is temporary.)
I did my first bike ride since giving birth last week and also picked up my kid at school with the bike trailer yesterday. It felt great, like getting back a part of me that had been missing for a while. Too bad the kid had complaints about the mode of transportation, but she’ll get used to it in time. :)
I'm concerned about getting home safely in the dark, staying upright over patches of snow and ice (again, if it's really bad I'll drive, but Denver has a lot of beautiful days where yesterday's snow is still melting) and also about what to wear if it's too cold for leggings or chinos.
I'm about to transition from a job where my typical bike commute is 8.5 miles one way, to only ~2.5 miles one way MAX. I'm used to having to change into my work clothes at work which can be very time consuming and annoying. But for those of you who have shorter commutes, how do you successfully bike in work clothes? I'm mainly worried about sweat and getting chain grease on my pants.
Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
An ebike is not a motorcycle. It's allowed to be used on bike and multi-use paths and therefore designed to move at much slower speeds. As far as I'm aware, all ebikes in North America are sold with limiters for this reason, and it's usually illegal to modify them to remove the limiters. If you want to go faster on an ebike than the electric motor allows, you can do this by using the pedals and your legs. If you want to go faster than that, it's probably best to get your license and a motorcycle - because that's what you're really using the ebike as.
I should specify that I want to bypass the limiter so that I can get up to speeds approaching but not even attaining the max speed permissible by law in my state. I want to be able to achieve the same speeds that the road bikers decked out in spandex regularly ride at. I am not looking to turn my bike into a motorcycle.Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
An ebike is not a motorcycle. It's allowed to be used on bike and multi-use paths and therefore designed to move at much slower speeds. As far as I'm aware, all ebikes in North America are sold with limiters for this reason, and it's usually illegal to modify them to remove the limiters. If you want to go faster on an ebike than the electric motor allows, you can do this by using the pedals and your legs. If you want to go faster than that, it's probably best to get your license and a motorcycle - because that's what you're really using the ebike as.
+1. My ebike can hit 30 mph while pedaling on the highest setting *as long as I am working too.* over reliance on a thumb throttle will burn out your motor, and there is no good reason I can think of to go faster on my bike. Ride safe!
In the US we have different classes of e-bikes. Class I and Class II are both limited to 20 mph (the difference is that Class II allows a throttle). Both Class I and II can be operated under the same rules as unassisted bicycles. Class III e-bikes are limited to 28 mph (20 mph under throttle only). California restricts use of Class III e-bikes on bike paths, requires riders be 16 years old or older, and requires riders to wear a helmet (generally adults 18 and older are not required to wear helmets in California). The Giant Explore E bike does not appear to be sold as a Class III bike, so it should be legal to modify it to Class III provided that it is relabeled and operated under Class III rules.Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
An ebike is not a motorcycle. It's allowed to be used on bike and multi-use paths and therefore designed to move at much slower speeds. As far as I'm aware, all ebikes in North America are sold with limiters for this reason, and it's usually illegal to modify them to remove the limiters. If you want to go faster on an ebike than the electric motor allows, you can do this by using the pedals and your legs. If you want to go faster than that, it's probably best to get your license and a motorcycle - because that's what you're really using the ebike as.
I'm about to transition from a job where my typical bike commute is 8.5 miles one way, to only ~2.5 miles one way MAX. I'm used to having to change into my work clothes at work which can be very time consuming and annoying. But for those of you who have shorter commutes, how do you successfully bike in work clothes? I'm mainly worried about sweat and getting chain grease on my pants.
Hi there, I cycle 7km each way in Sydney heat and humidity.
- Tightroll your pant leg on the chain side.
- Regularly clean your chain.
- Ride in a tee-shirt and change into your workshirt at work (very common here)
- Wear natural fibers that breathe more.
- Ride a little slower than you used to. It doesn't have to be a race so just enjoy the ride and be less sweaty.
Good luck!
If I wanted to get wider tires for winter, how do I go about that?You start with figuring out the size of your current rims (usually by reading the size of your current tires). You will also want to know if your current set is tubeless or not.
So I've bumped up my biweekly one-way 20-mile commute to weekly, and today I plan to do a roundtrip for the first time (40 miles total). Progress!
Question for the non-newbies: So I've gotten a lot of road bike gear recently, but have been holding off on a road bike helmet and shoes (have been using my mountain bike apparel). I would like to buy such items, but have been holding off for what I assume will be some type of winter sale. Do such sales exist and around when can I expect them? Do you have a preferred store from which you purchase bike-related items?
I will keep an eye out for cycling tights BUT I am only 4'11" tall, so I have trouble finding specialized clothing in my size. Maybe eBay can help.
Or do what I do and buy 7/8 length leggings which are just the right length on my short legsI will keep an eye out for cycling tights BUT I am only 4'11" tall, so I have trouble finding specialized clothing in my size. Maybe eBay can help.
If there's some baggy bit at the bottom, often you can just tuck it under your socks - Belgian style:
(https://dbyvw4eroffpi.cloudfront.net/cms/960/960/specialized-s-works-7-road-cycling-shoes-leg-warmers-and-sock-length.jpg)
Hi, new here. Got an E-bike this spring for $2000. Parked my car. Put on 1600 km so far, and lost 17 lbs. Just ordered some studded winter tires to see if it is possible to ride it all year, here in Canada. With any luck I'll be able to sell the car!
Hi, new here. Got an E-bike this spring for $2000. Parked my car. Put on 1600 km so far, and lost 17 lbs. Just ordered some studded winter tires to see if it is possible to ride it all year, here in Canada. With any luck I'll be able to sell the car!
Can I jump in here and get some advice about biking to work in the winter? (Sorry, I did not read all 20 past pages :-). )
I have been biking through the nice seasons and want to know what I can do to get ready for winter biking. Some parameters:
-I have a car, so I don't need to spend a bunch of money on things that would only be necessary in dreadful weather. I can drive in dreadful weather.
-My bike is a hybrid.
-My commute is about 3 miles with some hills which takes me about 20 minutes because I'm a slow-ass biker. (I can squat my body weight! Repeatedly! So I don't think it's my leg strength. But people just blow right by me.)
-My route is some street biking (on streets designated as bike routes but with no bike lanes), some bike lanes on the road, and a stretch of poorly maintained paved trail.
-I live in Denver so I can expect icy conditions not infrequently.
I'm concerned about getting home safely in the dark, staying upright over patches of snow and ice (again, if it's really bad I'll drive, but Denver has a lot of beautiful days where yesterday's snow is still melting) and also about what to wear if it's too cold for leggings or chinos.
Help!
I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.
I kept bringing the wheel to my LBS where I bought the bike and they would put another spoke in until it got to 5 or 6 spokes then they got a new wheel from Giant.
Now I just had one of the spokes on the new wheel break! I brought it back to the LBS again and I’m pretty sure they’re just going to put another spoke in.
When does it end?? I moved away from the town that the bike shop is in so I can’t keep going back to that one every time a spoke breaks. Luckily I’m visiting my parents at the moment so I’m in town.
I replaced eight or nine spokes on the rear wheel of my Giant Escape before buying a whole new set of spokes, taking the entire thing apart and rebuilding it. No problems since. Giant does a lot of things right on their bikes, but my experience has been that they don't tighten the spokes in their rear wheels evenly enough, or to sufficient tension when building them.
It's really important that the spoke tension in your wheels is high enough and even all the way around. Replacing a single broken spoke on your wheel is probably a waste of time. Sure, it can be made true and will work for a little while . . . but if tension wasn't even to begin with then some spokes will be really loose and some will be too tight. Unfortunately f you've been riding a poorly tensioned wheel for a while every loose spoke on the wheel is in a weakened state because of the excess flexing it undergoes with each wheel rotation. The NDS spokes are typically at lower tension than the DS spokes on a rear wheel because of the dishing that your cassette requires, so it makes sense that those are the ones breaking first.
You're going to keep regularly popping spokes if you don't have someone go through the whole process of re-tensioning the thing.
Yea, that seems like the case here. I actually paid the bike shop to tension and true the spokes after number 2 or 3 of the first wheel but maybe they either didn’t tension it or the damage was already done to the other spokes.
I’m a DIYer but am hesitant to purchase the tools necessary for retensioning and truing.
Maybe I should bring it to the LBS near my new place and see if they have someone who knows how to properly work on a wheel.
I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.
I kept bringing the wheel to my LBS where I bought the bike and they would put another spoke in until it got to 5 or 6 spokes then they got a new wheel from Giant.
Now I just had one of the spokes on the new wheel break! I brought it back to the LBS again and I’m pretty sure they’re just going to put another spoke in.
When does it end?? I moved away from the town that the bike shop is in so I can’t keep going back to that one every time a spoke breaks. Luckily I’m visiting my parents at the moment so I’m in town.
I replaced eight or nine spokes on the rear wheel of my Giant Escape before buying a whole new set of spokes, taking the entire thing apart and rebuilding it. No problems since. Giant does a lot of things right on their bikes, but my experience has been that they don't tighten the spokes in their rear wheels evenly enough, or to sufficient tension when building them.
It's really important that the spoke tension in your wheels is high enough and even all the way around. Replacing a single broken spoke on your wheel is probably a waste of time. Sure, it can be made true and will work for a little while . . . but if tension wasn't even to begin with then some spokes will be really loose and some will be too tight. Unfortunately f you've been riding a poorly tensioned wheel for a while every loose spoke on the wheel is in a weakened state because of the excess flexing it undergoes with each wheel rotation. The NDS spokes are typically at lower tension than the DS spokes on a rear wheel because of the dishing that your cassette requires, so it makes sense that those are the ones breaking first.
You're going to keep regularly popping spokes if you don't have someone go through the whole process of re-tensioning the thing.
Yea, that seems like the case here. I actually paid the bike shop to tension and true the spokes after number 2 or 3 of the first wheel but maybe they either didn’t tension it or the damage was already done to the other spokes.
I’m a DIYer but am hesitant to purchase the tools necessary for retensioning and truing.
Maybe I should bring it to the LBS near my new place and see if they have someone who knows how to properly work on a wheel.
So I just gave the wheel builder at a new (recommended) LBS the go ahead to build me a new wheel.
-Velocity Cliffhanger 36H rim
-Shimano Deore hub
-DTSwiss spokes
-locking brass nipples
Including parts and labor, it cost almost half the price of the bike but HOPEFULLY it will fix my wheel issues for good. Hurts to say but came to $303 plus tax so ~$323.
I also had a 36H rear wheel hand built a few years ago due to same problem (ALWAYS at the elbow on the non-drive side which has lower tension due to wheel geometry). My costs were a bit lower ($250-280 total; 50-100 rim, 50-70 hub, 40-60 spokes and nipples, 60-80 labor), but I'm pretty sure you rim and nipples are an upgrade from what I got. I'm a big guy, ride fairly upright, and pack ~20 pounds on the rear rack regularly, so lots of weight on that wheel.So I just gave the wheel builder at a new (recommended) LBS the go ahead to build me a new wheel.Yea, that seems like the case here. I actually paid the bike shop to tension and true the spokes after number 2 or 3 of the first wheel but maybe they either didn’t tension it or the damage was already done to the other spokes.I’ve been riding my 2017 Giant Roam 2 about 12 miles per day 5-6 days a week and am going through spikes like crazy. They always break at the bend into the hub on the non-drive side of the rear wheel.I replaced eight or nine spokes on the rear wheel of my Giant Escape before buying a whole new set of spokes, taking the entire thing apart and rebuilding it. No problems since. Giant does a lot of things right on their bikes, but my experience has been that they don't tighten the spokes in their rear wheels evenly enough, or to sufficient tension when building them.
It's really important that the spoke tension in your wheels is high enough and even all the way around. Replacing a single broken spoke on your wheel is probably a waste of time. Sure, it can be made true and will work for a little while . . . but if tension wasn't even to begin with then some spokes will be really loose and some will be too tight. Unfortunately f you've been riding a poorly tensioned wheel for a while every loose spoke on the wheel is in a weakened state because of the excess flexing it undergoes with each wheel rotation. The NDS spokes are typically at lower tension than the DS spokes on a rear wheel because of the dishing that your cassette requires, so it makes sense that those are the ones breaking first.
You're going to keep regularly popping spokes if you don't have someone go through the whole process of re-tensioning the thing.
I’m a DIYer but am hesitant to purchase the tools necessary for retensioning and truing.
Maybe I should bring it to the LBS near my new place and see if they have someone who knows how to properly work on a wheel.
-Velocity Cliffhanger 36H rim
-Shimano Deore hub
-DTSwiss spokes
-locking brass nipples
Including parts and labor, it cost almost half the price of the bike but HOPEFULLY it will fix my wheel issues for good. Hurts to say but came to $303 plus tax so ~$323.
So I just gave the wheel builder at a new (recommended) LBS the go ahead to build me a new wheel.
-Velocity Cliffhanger 36H rim
-Shimano Deore hub
-DTSwiss spokes
-locking brass nipples
Including parts and labor, it cost almost half the price of the bike but HOPEFULLY it will fix my wheel issues for good. Hurts to say but came to $303 plus tax so ~$323.
A hand built 36 spoke wheel will last you forever. The 32 spoke rear wheel that I built hasn't gone out of true in four years of heavy use.
I also had a 36H rear wheel hand built a few years ago due to same problem (ALWAYS at the elbow on the non-drive side which has lower tension due to wheel geometry). My costs were a bit lower ($250-280 total; 50-100 rim, 50-70 hub, 40-60 spokes and nipples, 60-80 labor), but I'm pretty sure you rim and nipples are an upgrade from what I got. I'm a big guy, ride fairly upright, and pack ~20 pounds on the rear rack regularly, so lots of weight on that wheel.Mine started off breaking at the elbow of the NDS but then the floodgates opened and they started breaking all over the place.
After researching the problem (mostly sheldonbrown.com articles), I determined that the drive side spokes should have a larger cross sectional area than the non-drive side spokes so that the cross sectional stress is approximately equal. I determined that I wanted a hand built wheel and felt that I could DIY the job (using bike as truing stand and pitch method of determining spoke tension). As I looked to source the needed parts, I found that getting the spokes I wanted was going to be a problem. I could only find the spokes I wanted in quantities of 50, so I'd have 32 extra of each size - the cost of the extra spokes was about the same as the labor to build a wheel so I ended up having the wheel built at a LBS. I ended up going with the wheel builder's recommendation using the same single butted spokes on both sides of the wheel.
The LBS did an estimate of the parts cost but the only things that were certain were the spokes at $1.88 each, nipples at $0.36(?) each, and labor at $90. This LBS is in an expensive area and their prices are a bit higher than others I've noticed.My LBS estimate only changed because rim I originally picked out wasn't available from their regular supplier (and shipping of a single rim from alternate providers was cost prohibitive).
Congrats on the hill!A certain type of cyclist...
Learning to talk about tweaking nipples on your wheels without collapsing into fits of giggles is an important part of becoming a cyclist. :P
Congrats on the hill!
Learning to talk about tweaking nipples on your wheels without collapsing into fits of giggles is an important part of becoming a cyclist. :P
Tass, congrats on the hill. I'm sure I'd find it a bit of a workout too. It's been over a year since I've gone up anything larger than an overpass (possibly over a year for that too). The most challenging hill I regularly ride is about 7 ft of elevation gain over about 200 ft. When I hit the traffic light at the bottom of the hill right, I can almost just coast to the stop sign at the top of the hill.
This is 300ft of elevation over 1.5 miles. Per google maps it looks like the grade is between 3-5.5% at different points - so not appreciably steeper than yours, though more sustained. I'm pretty sure one of the signs on the route warns of 8%, though...I get the smallest hint of what it would be like to actually sustain a climb of that grade when I come to a stop at the traffic signal just before it so I can't hit it with speed.
I guess, this is both a humble brag and a Mustachian people problem (MPP), but with all the cycling to work I've been doing this past year, my thighs have gotten bigger, and now I don't like the way I look in my work pants or jeans.
I've always been sort of an athletic build, and I've never been one to "skip leg day". But now, the thigh area in my pants are tight, while the waist and lower legs remain the same. I haven't bought jeans in over 10 years, and being mustachian, I don't want to buy new jeans or work slacks. I guess I'll have to just adjust my expectations of what I look like in my clothes.
I had the same problem so stopped wearing pants entirely. Everyone wins. I'm comfy, no need to spend money on custom designed clothes, and the world can enjoy my sculpted lower body.
When my daughter wants to show off her lower body I insist that she wear underwear at the dinner table. I actually had to think for a moment when she asked why.I had the same problem so stopped wearing pants entirely. Everyone wins. I'm comfy, no need to spend money on custom designed clothes, and the world can enjoy my sculpted lower body.
Another reason to retire early, so I don't have to wear slacks anymore, then the world too can enjoy my sculpted lower body.
Protip - steer clear of elementary schools while pantsless. Just trust me on this.But this thread is about biking to work; and, I usually pass an elementary school on the way in (though usually before children are present). I suppose I could change my route to avoid; but it difficult to avoid all the schools. My most frequent route takes me past 3 schools (the K-8 I recognized as an elementary school, a high school, and a K-12 charter that I didn't even know was a school until I saw it labeled on a map). Thankfully the elementary school on my street was shut down years ago and the Salvation Army campus that I thought was a school only has a daycare center (that's better right?). There are also two more schools that I occasionally go by that are easily avoided in the future (a K-5 and a K-8). That's it for schools on routes I usually take to work. This thread isn't about biking home from work, so I won't mention the additional high school and day care center that I only usually pass by in the homeward direction (I do normally avoid the first K-8 going home already). You'd think that after 20+ years of cycling I would have already know that I should plan routes more carefully when cycling in shorts!
Interjecting this post below some veteran cyclists above ^^^, but a newbie looking for some encouragement and motivation!
I recently relocated much closer to work (~4.5 miles away) and just did a test ride over the weekend to get the route down. Shouldn't be too hard of a ride. I just struggle with getting enough sleep and waking up early enough to have time to ride in. Tomorrow should be my first day cycling into work!
Cheers!
Interjecting this post below some veteran cyclists above ^^^, but a newbie looking for some encouragement and motivation!That's about how far my ride is. I think it is pretty close to the optimum distance for cycle commuting - just enough to get 15-20 minutes of cardio workout. For me the travel time isn't much more than driving (depends on traffic of course), but overall it takes about 15 minutes extra because I change clothes at work.
I recently relocated much closer to work (~4.5 miles away) and just did a test ride over the weekend to get the route down. Shouldn't be too hard of a ride. I just struggle with getting enough sleep and waking up early enough to have time to ride in. Tomorrow should be my first day cycling into work!
Cheers!
That's about how far my ride is. I think it is pretty close to the optimum distance for cycle commuting - just enough to get 15-20 minutes of cardio workout. For me the travel time isn't much more than driving (depends on traffic of course), but overall it takes about 15 minutes extra because I change clothes at work.
I definitely need to figure out how to be warmer. My legs and feet were sooo cold last time I biked and it was only like 32F. Not that cold. What do people were on their feet when it's cold? 'Cause running shoes are not keeping my feet warm, even with wool socks.
I biked up to the tiny LBS yesterday. They said that my tires were probably fine for winter but that I should get fenders. They are ordering some for me and I'll go back to have them installed. There are probably cheaper ways to get fenders, but my mental bandwidth is limited!
The fenders we chose are reflective and I already ordered a reflective vest, so I should be SUPER visible at night!
I definitely need to figure out how to be warmer. My legs and feet were sooo cold last time I biked and it was only like 32F. Not that cold. What do people were on their feet when it's cold? 'Cause running shoes are not keeping my feet warm, even with wool socks.
@La Bibliotecaria Feroz, do you own any boots? Wind is going to rush straight through the mesh of running shoes. Feet are really hard to keep warm when it's cold out.
Fenders are awesome! I love mine.
I've found that keeping my chest and core warm enough actually keeps my hands and feet warm. When my chest is too cold, my feet and fingers are the first to suffer . . . even if they're in heavy boots/gloves. Other than that, make sure that your shoes and gloves are loose (don't pack boots so tight with socks that there's no room to move your feet around). Tight stuff will cut off circulation, and as soon as you do that you're going to suffer in the cold.
Several miles in.... HissSsssSssssSSsssssSSssssssSSsssssssssssssssssssSSSssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss.
Oh right. Technically I’m squatting on this chat as I am not biking to work while on leave. I do bike my kid to school each day though so I am not a complete imposter.AND you biked to work enough to earn an awesome reflective bike jacket. SCORE.
Just got back from the bike shop with my new, 36 spoke, hand built, rear wheel.
They told me to bring it back after 500 miles so they can re-true it.
Once I got home, I noticed the wheel is true but there are two spokes that seem like they are waaaay too loose!
I'm scared that I'm going to ride it and start breaking spokes again on my freaking $323 wheel.
I texted the guy to let him know. At this point it would have been cheaper for me to just drive my car everywhere...
I think biking to work during the majority of a pregnancy earns you a permanent place of honor in the thread, actually.~blush~
Just got back from the bike shop with my new, 36 spoke, hand built, rear wheel.
They told me to bring it back after 500 miles so they can re-true it.
Once I got home, I noticed the wheel is true but there are two spokes that seem like they are waaaay too loose!
I'm scared that I'm going to ride it and start breaking spokes again on my freaking $323 wheel.
I texted the guy to let him know. At this point it would have been cheaper for me to just drive my car everywhere...
It's pretty common for spokes on a new wheel to require adjustment after a few hundred miles.
On a properly built wheel, all the spokes on the same side should be the same tension. None of them should feel looser than any of the others (although on a rear wheel you'll find that the non drive side spokes are much looser than the spokes on the drive side). Where do you feel loose spokes? How loose are they?
I looked down at my helmet this evening and realized it has a couple of cracks in the foam. Since it is old and I ride an ebike I think I should replace it for something that will be safer.
Does anyone have recommendations on products and/or where to start researching?
I looked down at my helmet this evening and realized it has a couple of cracks in the foam. Since it is old and I ride an ebike I think I should replace it for something that will be safer.All helmets have to pass the same standards, but I did elect for a MIPS one - they are supposed to be better than the average brain bucket. Mine is a Bontrager Circuit MIPS. I can put lights on it, which is cool for visibility. Maybe a car pulling out of a driveway will see the blinky coal miner light over the top of parked cars.
Does anyone have recommendations on products and/or where to start researching?
Oh right. Technically I’m squatting on this chat as I am not biking to work while on leave. I do bike my kid to school each day though so I am not a complete imposter.
Just got back from the bike shop with my new, 36 spoke, hand built, rear wheel.
They told me to bring it back after 500 miles so they can re-true it.
Once I got home, I noticed the wheel is true but there are two spokes that seem like they are waaaay too loose!
I'm scared that I'm going to ride it and start breaking spokes again on my freaking $323 wheel.
I texted the guy to let him know. At this point it would have been cheaper for me to just drive my car everywhere...
It's pretty common for spokes on a new wheel to require adjustment after a few hundred miles.
On a properly built wheel, all the spokes on the same side should be the same tension. None of them should feel looser than any of the others (although on a rear wheel you'll find that the non drive side spokes are much looser than the spokes on the drive side). Where do you feel loose spokes? How loose are they?
I haven’t ridden the bike yet with the new wheel...
I plucked all the spokes and can tell that they’re all slightly different tensions even though the wheel is true.
The two that were loose didn’t ring at all.
Just clunked and I could move them back and fourth with my finger and thumb without much pressure.
I forget where on the wheel they were but they were only a few spokes apart from one another.
They said to bring the wheel back and they’ll take a look.
Since I have work tomorrow (and I ride to work) I’m planning on riding 4.5 miles to work, then 5 miles to the bike shop. Hope that doesn’t do any damage.
Just got back from the bike shop with my new, 36 spoke, hand built, rear wheel.
They told me to bring it back after 500 miles so they can re-true it.
Once I got home, I noticed the wheel is true but there are two spokes that seem like they are waaaay too loose!
I'm scared that I'm going to ride it and start breaking spokes again on my freaking $323 wheel.
I texted the guy to let him know. At this point it would have been cheaper for me to just drive my car everywhere...
It's pretty common for spokes on a new wheel to require adjustment after a few hundred miles.
On a properly built wheel, all the spokes on the same side should be the same tension. None of them should feel looser than any of the others (although on a rear wheel you'll find that the non drive side spokes are much looser than the spokes on the drive side). Where do you feel loose spokes? How loose are they?
I haven’t ridden the bike yet with the new wheel...
I plucked all the spokes and can tell that they’re all slightly different tensions even though the wheel is true.
The two that were loose didn’t ring at all.
Just clunked and I could move them back and fourth with my finger and thumb without much pressure.
I forget where on the wheel they were but they were only a few spokes apart from one another.
They said to bring the wheel back and they’ll take a look.
Since I have work tomorrow (and I ride to work) I’m planning on riding 4.5 miles to work, then 5 miles to the bike shop. Hope that doesn’t do any damage.
Both loose spokes are on the NDS.
Just rode the bike to work. The spokes pinged during the first revolution of the wheel with me on the bike.
I didn't think they were supposed to do that on a properly built wheel.
The ride was AMAZING though! wheel feels strong, true, and fast!
Also, I noticed that a creaking sound that I thought was the bottom bracket is no longer there with the new wheel.
I'm going to ride to the bike shop after work to get them to check the tensions.
I looked down at my helmet this evening and realized it has a couple of cracks in the foam. Since it is old and I ride an ebike I think I should replace it for something that will be safer.
Does anyone have recommendations on products and/or where to start researching?
It is possible that the rim they started with wasn't true to begin with, so they needed some variation in tension to true the rim. The wheel builder should have rejected the rim if the only way to build a wheel that is true from it was to have tension problems as bad as you describe.A little pinging after adjusting spoke tensions is normal and no big deal. Spokes that are so loose they're just sitting there and wiggling around doesn't sound good though.Both loose spokes are on the NDS.I plucked all the spokes and can tell that they’re all slightly different tensions even though the wheel is true.Once I got home, I noticed the wheel is true but there are two spokes that seem like they are waaaay too loose!On a properly built wheel, all the spokes on the same side should be the same tension. None of them should feel looser than any of the others (although on a rear wheel you'll find that the non drive side spokes are much looser than the spokes on the drive side). Where do you feel loose spokes? How loose are they?
The two that were loose didn’t ring at all.
Just clunked and I could move them back and fourth with my finger and thumb without much pressure.
I forget where on the wheel they were but they were only a few spokes apart from one another.
They said to bring the wheel back and they’ll take a look.
Since I have work tomorrow (and I ride to work) I’m planning on riding 4.5 miles to work, then 5 miles to the bike shop. Hope that doesn’t do any damage.
Just rode the bike to work. The spokes pinged during the first revolution of the wheel with me on the bike.
I didn't think they were supposed to do that on a properly built wheel.
I'm going to ride to the bike shop after work to get them to check the tensions.
Check if the adjacent spokes on the same side feel like they're at a much higher tension. To me, that would be an indication of a wheel that's not built properly . . . it's possible to build a wheel very true with wildly uneven tensions on the spokes. What happens with that sort of wheel though, is that the uneven tension leads to premature spoke failure and a much weaker wheel than you would otherwise get.
If all the spokes on the NDS feel a little loose, that's not necessarily a problem. The dish of the wheel dictates that they'll all be much looser than the drive side. None should be flopping around though, but it should be possible for the shop to slightly increase the tension of all spokes (DS and NDS) so that nothing's flopping around.
Both loose spokes are on the NDS.
Just rode the bike to work. The spokes pinged during the first revolution of the wheel with me on the bike.
I didn't think they were supposed to do that on a properly built wheel.
The ride was AMAZING though! wheel feels strong, true, and fast!
Also, I noticed that a creaking sound that I thought was the bottom bracket is no longer there with the new wheel.
I'm going to ride to the bike shop after work to get them to check the tensions.
A little pinging after adjusting spoke tensions is normal and no big deal. Spokes that are so loose they're just sitting there and wiggling around doesn't sound good though.
Check if the adjacent spokes on the same side feel like they're at a much higher tension. To me, that would be an indication of a wheel that's not built properly . . . it's possible to build a wheel very true with wildly uneven tensions on the spokes. What happens with that sort of wheel though, is that the uneven tension leads to premature spoke failure and a much weaker wheel than you would otherwise get.
If all the spokes on the NDS feel a little loose, that's not necessarily a problem. The dish of the wheel dictates that they'll all be much looser than the drive side. None should be flopping around though, but it should be possible for the shop to slightly increase the tension of all spokes (DS and NDS) so that nothing's flopping around.
Both loose spokes are on the NDS.
Just rode the bike to work. The spokes pinged during the first revolution of the wheel with me on the bike.
I didn't think they were supposed to do that on a properly built wheel.
The ride was AMAZING though! wheel feels strong, true, and fast!
Also, I noticed that a creaking sound that I thought was the bottom bracket is no longer there with the new wheel.
I'm going to ride to the bike shop after work to get them to check the tensions.
A little pinging after adjusting spoke tensions is normal and no big deal. Spokes that are so loose they're just sitting there and wiggling around doesn't sound good though.
Check if the adjacent spokes on the same side feel like they're at a much higher tension. To me, that would be an indication of a wheel that's not built properly . . . it's possible to build a wheel very true with wildly uneven tensions on the spokes. What happens with that sort of wheel though, is that the uneven tension leads to premature spoke failure and a much weaker wheel than you would otherwise get.
If all the spokes on the NDS feel a little loose, that's not necessarily a problem. The dish of the wheel dictates that they'll all be much looser than the drive side. None should be flopping around though, but it should be possible for the shop to slightly increase the tension of all spokes (DS and NDS) so that nothing's flopping around.
I thought that the initial pinging was a sign that the spokes weren't properly stress relieved or seated properly or something like that.
It's relieving (har har) if that isn't the case.
Everything on the wheel is at a much higher tension than these two spokes as they're not even tight.
Comparing the adjacent spokes to the other spokes on the same side of the wheel, they sound roughly the same when I pick them.
Regardless, I'm going to take it in today and see what they say as the premature spoke failure issue is why I paid the $$$ to have a hand-built wheel from a pro (I hope) after going through 2 junkers from Giant.
I hope I'm just needlessly worrying here. I must say this whole thing has been quite disheartening.
I thought that the initial pinging was a sign that the spokes weren't properly stress relieved or seated properly or something like that.
It's relieving (har har) if that isn't the case.
Everything on the wheel is at a much higher tension than these two spokes as they're not even tight.
Comparing the adjacent spokes to the other spokes on the same side of the wheel, they sound roughly the same when I pick them.
Regardless, I'm going to take it in today and see what they say as the premature spoke failure issue is why I paid the $$$ to have a hand-built wheel from a pro (I hope) after going through 2 junkers from Giant.
I hope I'm just needlessly worrying here. I must say this whole thing has been quite disheartening.
If you're really concerned about the wheel build, ask the bike shop to show you the tensions of the spokes you're concerned about (and adjacent spokes) with their tensiometer. I wouldn't expect more than plus or minus 5% tension difference on all the spokes on a side after the wheel is trued. If you're seeing more than +/- 10% there's something wrong with the build. (With some patience I was able to get the wheels I built true at at plus or minus two percent.) If they don't have a tensiometer, find a new bike shop.
What is special about rounder?I looked down at my helmet this evening and realized it has a couple of cracks in the foam. Since it is old and I ride an ebike I think I should replace it for something that will be safer.
Does anyone have recommendations on products and/or where to start researching?
MIPS is the current state-of-the-art technology for helmets. It is not conclusively better, from what I can tell, but studies suggest that it is better, particularly at mitigating rotational impacts.
I bought a MIPS helmet yesterday on Amazon from a reputable brand (Giro) for my e-biking. My current helmet is old but still seems perfectly intact. Nevertheless, I made the leap (partly to get a rounder helmet as well in line with other recommendations I've read). Worst case, I wasted $40.
Looking for thoughts around bike headlights as the winter approaches. For context: I live in the Midwest (Wisconsin). My commute to work is only 1.5 miles, but it does take place mostly in a bike trail that has no street lights or anything. I also bike to other places (mainly the gym), and I bike at night at least 1-2 times a week usually. I would prefer a rechargeable headlight so I don't have to worry about buying batteries.
I saw someone recommend the Cygolite Metro 750. This is way out of my price range, but I saw the Cygolite Metro 550 (https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Durable-Waterproof-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=The+Cygolite+Metro+750&psc=1&qid=1571327372&sr=8-1 (https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Durable-Waterproof-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=The+Cygolite+Metro+750&psc=1&qid=1571327372&sr=8-1)). Still more than I would like to pay, but seems to be a good quality headlight that's also rechargeable.
The other option would be: https://www.amazon.com/Vont-Bike-Light-Tools-Free-Installation/dp/B00KQSVRF8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+headlight&psc=1&qid=1571326523&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Vont-Bike-Light-Tools-Free-Installation/dp/B00KQSVRF8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+headlight&psc=1&qid=1571326523&sr=8-5). Cheaper but seems to still be good quality and almost half the price.
I guess just looking for people's opinions on this. I'm really tempted to get the more expensive one since it seems to be better quality and rechargeable, but I also don't know if I really need something SO nice if my bike commutes are never more than 3 miles? If there are other recommendations that you guys have, feel free to drop them for me.
Looking for thoughts around bike headlights as the winter approaches. For context: I live in the Midwest (Wisconsin). My commute to work is only 1.5 miles, but it does take place mostly in a bike trail that has no street lights or anything. I also bike to other places (mainly the gym), and I bike at night at least 1-2 times a week usually. I would prefer a rechargeable headlight so I don't have to worry about buying batteries.
Looking for thoughts around bike headlights as the winter approaches. For context: I live in the Midwest (Wisconsin). My commute to work is only 1.5 miles, but it does take place mostly in a bike trail that has no street lights or anything. I also bike to other places (mainly the gym), and I bike at night at least 1-2 times a week usually. I would prefer a rechargeable headlight so I don't have to worry about buying batteries.
I'm not familiar with other brands/models but can tell you what I use.
I went with a niterider 750 (was sent the 1200 boost) and absolutely love it but they're expensive.
I would go with a rechargeable headlight that is good enough for you to see (not just be seen) even if that means that you spend a little bit more on it.
Taillights are cheaper and only have to be good enough for you to be seen from the back. I would also get a rechargeable one of these.
I use a niterider solas 250 for the back.
I'm not familiar with other brands/models but can tell you what I use.
I went with a niterider 750 (was sent the 1200 boost) and absolutely love it but they're expensive.
I would go with a rechargeable headlight that is good enough for you to see (not just be seen) even if that means that you spend a little bit more on it.
Taillights are cheaper and only have to be good enough for you to be seen from the back. I would also get a rechargeable one of these.
I use a niterider solas 250 for the back.
I don't have any experience with the lights you posted, but I do have opinions about lights in general. I don't like the rigid mounting type that the lights you posted use. I find they break relatively quickly. If that happens while you're riding the light is often destroyed/lost on impact or when a car runs over it. Instead, I prefer this kind of rubber attachment. It lasts longer and fits a wide variety of shapes and sizes of handlebar.
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5038-788/Urban-500-Light
Distance is not relevant to how bright your lights need to be. You can get hit coming out of your own driveway. If you're out at night, you need lights. If you're riding on unlit streets/trails you need a brighter light.
I prefer to run 2 front and 2 rear lights. The reason is that the USB rechargeable lights switch off suddenly when the battery gets too low. This leaves you in the dark. Having a second light means I'm never completely invisible.
WaveCel is another new technology, but there are tests that show MIPS is still better:I looked down at my helmet this evening and realized it has a couple of cracks in the foam. Since it is old and I ride an ebike I think I should replace it for something that will be safer.
Does anyone have recommendations on products and/or where to start researching?
MIPS is the current state-of-the-art technology for helmets. It is not conclusively better, from what I can tell, but studies suggest that it is better, particularly at mitigating rotational impacts.
I bought a MIPS helmet yesterday on Amazon from a reputable brand (Giro) for my e-biking. My current helmet is old but still seems perfectly intact. Nevertheless, I made the leap (partly to get a rounder helmet as well in line with other recommendations I've read). Worst case, I wasted $40.
I guess just looking for people's opinions on this. I'm really tempted to get the more expensive one since it seems to be better quality and rechargeable, but I also don't know if I really need something SO nice if my bike commutes are never more than 3 miles? If there are other recommendations that you guys have, feel free to drop them for me.
Riding in the temps that we do, I actually prefer a quick connect instead of only the rubber strap - it's sometimes hard for me to get them off without taking off my gloves (I take my lights inside with me everywhere partly due to theft risk and partly to warm them up so the charge lasts longer). A friend showed me how to make my Light & Motion light quick release with one screw - so that might be an option depending on the model you look at.
Brought the wheel back to the shop today.Great news!
The owner checked the round,true, and tension (with a park tool meter) and everything was fine.
He said that when you pump up the tube, it puts pressure on the wheel and can make some spokes looser.
Once he put the tire/tube back on and pumped it up again, the same spokes were loose but according to them I shouldn’t worry about it.
I have to say my stress has gone down tremendously and I learned something new.
Oh right. Technically I’m squatting on this chat as I am not biking to work while on leave. I do bike my kid to school each day though so I am not a complete imposter.
I'm also squatting here for another week since I had a cardiac ablation last week and I'm not yet healed enough for biking.
It's been soooooo boring and I had to make an unscheduled stop for gas today. Blerg.
I walk the 5.5 miles to and from work now rather than cycle, so I haven’t been able to post in this thread for a long while. I just wanted to say I hate cars and that you lot all completely rock. Keep up the good work and don’t let winter get you down.
Be fatter.
Be fatter.I suppose just carrying more weight on the bike might help, but having body weight to shift around to maintain your balance is helpful.
Personally, low-20's mph winds are about the highest I would want to bike in, especially if in traffic. (With exception to a 20-mph tailwind— those are great!)
Personally, low-20's mph winds are about the highest I would want to bike in, especially if in traffic. (With exception to a 20-mph tailwind— those are great!)
Okay how do you all manage to stay upright when it's windy?!Get small and ride in a less upright position. Making yourself more aerodynamic will make it easier to pedal as the wind speeds pick up, but you may just have to ease off and deal with moving slower.
It seems like once the wind is above ~20mph, it's very hard for me to bike. Yesterday I tried going home during my lunch break, and I was pedaling but my bike was literally not moving because the wind was blowing against me. When the wind was coming at my side, I felt like at any second I'd end up in the car lane with all the cars. Not to mention all the leaves, sticks, etc that were being blown all over the place and kept hitting my face and neck. You know when the wind is hitting your face so hard that it's hard to breathe? That was me. Had to find cover somewhere just to catch my breath! My friend had to give me a ride, and my friend gave me a ride again this morning because the winds are going to be about the same and I didn't want to risk it. I saw someone else say they usually ride until the wind is at about 40mph+. Do you just get better as you continue doing it? I figure there will be more windy days as the winter hits, and I just need to figure out what my transportation plan will be for those days.
You'll get better about riding in wind. It's also important to note that steady wind is different from gusting wind. The former sucks your energy and requires grinding away at a low gear. It's similar to learning to ride uphill. The latter creates a balance problem because it feels like an invisible hand is trying to push you over. There've been days when it was gusting so strongly I got off and walked because I was concerned about falling.
If gaining a bunch of weight isn't an option (LOL) try making the bike heavier. My aluminum hybrid commuter handles way better in wind than my fancy pants carbon road bike. The carbon bike is just too light, and has those annoying deep rim wheels that just act like sails in a crosswind.
Another option is to try to find a more sheltered route. Going through the trees, or through densely built up streets will shelter you from the worst of the wind. Riding on an open street will be more difficult because you'll be subject to the full effect of the wind. Of course, be very careful not to be hit by falling branches.
A headwind still beats a strong, gusty crosswind.Personally, low-20's mph winds are about the highest I would want to bike in, especially if in traffic. (With exception to a 20-mph tailwind— those are great!)
A tailwind sounds like a mythical creature.
It seems that no matter which direction I'm biking, the wind is against me. XD
Guess who just got lasik and can now see when on the bike?? :DYay!!
Guess who just got lasik and can now see when on the bike?? :D
I needed fenders for my bike and finally called my bike shop about two weeks ago to ask about what they have for my bike. I had also glanced online but wanted to compare prices. They said they would look into it and call me the next day.
A week goes by and still no call, and I started to wonder. Then I get a call that my fenders are in and I can pick them up. I ask about the price and it was about what I remember seeing online, so I shrug my shoulders and go in.
Thank goodness. I got them to install for me. It took the three guys in the shop an hour and a phone call to the manufacturer to get the back fender to play nicely with my bike rack.
In the end when ringing me up I was informed I get 20% off parts due to being employed by XYZ. And the install was free. Sweet!
It's usually not that hard to install fenders on your own. I've installed six or seven different sets for people. It's just a matter of bolting stuff into the eyelets. The most complicated part is usually if you need to use a longer screw because the same eyelets are also holding on a rack.That is what I figured also and thought I could pick them up and do it at home, but they were happy to install for me.
:P
It's usually not that hard to install fenders on your own. I've installed six or seven different sets for people. It's just a matter of bolting stuff into the eyelets. The most complicated part is usually if you need to use a longer screw because the same eyelets are also holding on a rack.That is what I figured also and thought I could pick them up and do it at home, but they were happy to install for me.
:P
I’m pretty sure if the bike shop guys were struggling then there was something trickier about my setup.
Side note - I really want an e-cargo bike...A Radwagon showed up at the bike racks at work today - that's the first cargo bike I'd be looking at if I could actually justify getting a cargo bike.
It's usually not that hard to install fenders on your own. I've installed six or seven different sets for people. It's just a matter of bolting stuff into the eyelets. The most complicated part is usually if you need to use a longer screw because the same eyelets are also holding on a rack.Certainly many bikes are easy to install fenders on, but I'm sure you're aware of exceptions.
Guess who just got lasik and can now see when on the bike?? :DYay!!
I hope it went smoothly and that your recovery is fast. Mine took maybe a week to get over the worst of the sensitivity and a couple of months for the dryness. I have lots of techniques honed for dealing with dry eyes if that becomes a problem for you.
Overall it was money very well spent for me.
I hope it is the same for you.
Guess who just got lasik and can now see when on the bike?? :D
Oh, I'm so jealous! Enjoy!!
It's usually not that hard to install fenders on your own. I've installed six or seven different sets for people. It's just a matter of bolting stuff into the eyelets. The most complicated part is usually if you need to use a longer screw because the same eyelets are also holding on a rack.Certainly many bikes are easy to install fenders on, but I'm sure you're aware of exceptions.
Side note - I really want an e-cargo bike...A Radwagon showed up at the bike racks at work today - that's the first cargo bike I'd be looking at if I could actually justify getting a cargo bike.
I'm in need of a pick-me-up. My bike, trailer and three helmets were stolen this weekend.Can you count it as a charitable donation? Theft is actually deductible: https://www.irs.gov/taxtopics/tc515
This was my stupid fault as I left them all sitting overnight in a playground but still. Nothing hugely expensive. I had planned on retiring the bike soon anyways.
I commuted to work today in a 21 mpg minivan like all the other Consuma Suckas. I think about rebuilding my rig and feel a little sad that someone out there is riding around with my stuff.
Ah, that is sad. Can you set up a search on FB marketplace and Craigslist for anew trailer? I got really lucky and got mine for free from someone who was moving.I've already been watching CL and FB hoping to see my own stuff for sale. But yeah, hoping to pick up a beater bike later this week. Once I have that, I'll start shopping for a used trailer.
Thanks! Without a doubt the most increase in quality of life per dollar spent thus far.
I biked to work for the first time since the procedure and it was so wonderful being able to see everything.
ysette9, I'll be sure to reach out if I have problems with dry eyes. Thanks!
Right now, they have me taking these pills for it and using artificial tears.
I get crazy bad burning every now and then but it seems to go away with time.
Thanks! Without a doubt the most increase in quality of life per dollar spent thus far.
I biked to work for the first time since the procedure and it was so wonderful being able to see everything.
ysette9, I'll be sure to reach out if I have problems with dry eyes. Thanks!
Right now, they have me taking these pills for it and using artificial tears.
I get crazy bad burning every now and then but it seems to go away with time.
Hey. I've just hit 3 years after having had LASIK, and it was the best decision I ever made.
Depending on where you live (dry or windy climate), you'll want to carry a little bottle of artificial tears with you for the first couple of months. After that the chronic dryness should pass.
Having corrected vision is definitely amazing, but biking without glasses or contacts really does bring the experience to a whole new level. Now you can even go on a long-distant all-day ride without having to worry about itchiness or irritation from contacts or glasses.
Systane is more expensive than other drops but I found it is significantly better. Longer lasting and does a better job of making the eye feel comfortable. Spend the money on this one and skip the cheap generic drops.Thanks! Without a doubt the most increase in quality of life per dollar spent thus far.
I biked to work for the first time since the procedure and it was so wonderful being able to see everything.
ysette9, I'll be sure to reach out if I have problems with dry eyes. Thanks!
Right now, they have me taking these pills for it and using artificial tears.
I get crazy bad burning every now and then but it seems to go away with time.
Hey. I've just hit 3 years after having had LASIK, and it was the best decision I ever made.
Depending on where you live (dry or windy climate), you'll want to carry a little bottle of artificial tears with you for the first couple of months. After that the chronic dryness should pass.
Having corrected vision is definitely amazing, but biking without glasses or contacts really does bring the experience to a whole new level. Now you can even go on a long-distant all-day ride without having to worry about itchiness or irritation from contacts or glasses.
I’m in central NJ, USA. It’s not very dry here but can get windy at times.
I hear more and more how important it is to keep the eyes lubricated.
They told me to keep using the artificial tears for the first month but I think I’ll take your advice and buy my own bottle when the ones they gave me run out.
I use safety glasses on the bike now and think I’ll continue doing so.
I can’t wait to go snowboarding for the first time with vision this winter!
Systane is more expensive than other drops but I found it is significantly better. Longer lasting and does a better job of making the eye feel comfortable. Spend the money on this one and skip the cheap generic drops.
If I can keep throwing stuff at you, I struggle with dry eyes unrelated to LASIK. The single best thing that helps me is fish oil capsules twice a a day. Go for the Burp Less variety. ;-)Systane is more expensive than other drops but I found it is significantly better. Longer lasting and does a better job of making the eye feel comfortable. Spend the money on this one and skip the cheap generic drops.
I appreciate the recommendation! I’ll definitely check them out.
Quick question on riding in the cold: I don't mind riding a few miles in the cold, and in fact I somewhat enjoy it. My commute though is 20 miles, and if it's anything below freezing my hands go completely numb and I'm oozing out major snotsicles by the time I arrive at work. Not personally fun. Anybody else experience these particular issues and find a way to prevent them?
Quick question on riding in the cold: I don't mind riding a few miles in the cold, and in fact I somewhat enjoy it. My commute though is 20 miles, and if it's anything below freezing my hands go completely numb and I'm oozing out major snotsicles by the time I arrive at work. Not personally fun. Anybody else experience these particular issues and find a way to prevent them?
Keep your core warm.Yep, if your core is not warm enough your body simply won't circulate enough blood to your extremities to keep them warm at all.
My core always feels fine, but if I don't have enough clothing over my torso, my toes, nose, ears, and fingers freeze. If I am very warm at my core, I can wear less stuff on my hands/feet and still feel comfortable. So try dressing a little warmer over your upper body and see if the problem goes away.
Any difficulties with the shifting mechanisms from the thick gloves? That's the primary reason I haven't gone to them yet (been using thin gloves), but maybe I need to just get over my hesitation and go for it. It took me a while to figure out how to shift with numb hands on the integrated upshift/downshift levers, but its doable, so I guess thick gloves probably work similarly.
As for the face, I have been wearing a balaclava, but it still comes out a snotty mess by the end. Perhaps my nasal issues are a somewhat unique problem that will either go away with experience or become a badge of pride down the road.
I biked partway today! It was only 3C and I didn't have my face warmer on (need to find it) so my lungs burned the whole way. Asthma inflammation + cold air + coughing wasn't fun, but was still better than being stuck in traffic.3 C = 37.4 F. That's a bit warmer than it's been here for my morning commute. I don't have trouble without a face covering at that temperature (but I don't have asthma).
Any difficulties with the shifting mechanisms from the thick gloves? That's the primary reason I haven't gone to them yet (been using thin gloves), but maybe I need to just get over my hesitation and go for it. It took me a while to figure out how to shift with numb hands on the integrated upshift/downshift levers, but its doable, so I guess thick gloves probably work similarly.
As for the face, I have been wearing a balaclava, but it still comes out a snotty mess by the end. Perhaps my nasal issues are a somewhat unique problem that will either go away with experience or become a badge of pride down the road.
Another nice article on the benefits of e-biking. Always good to see these, especially since (even in biking-'woke' places like this) there are people with significant prejudices against e-bikes.Good article. It very much lined up with my anecdotal experience. I ride as much as I can now and all to destinations I would otherwise go to in a car. The one thing that is missing though is why: I think riding an ebike is so much fun!
https://www.outsideonline.com/2404475/riding-e-bike-not-cheating
By the way, I don't think that all e-bikes are great - my biggest fear is of people abusing the system with overpowered, non-street-legal e-bikes (since there's basically no enforcement right now in the USA), causing the hammer to drop on all e-bikes. People building and riding bikes like that need to suck it up and register/drive them as motor vehicles.
Another nice article on the benefits of e-biking. Always good to see these, especially since (even in biking-'woke' places like this) there are people with significant prejudices against e-bikes.
Another nice article on the benefits of e-biking. Always good to see these, especially since (even in biking-'woke' places like this) there are people with significant prejudices against e-bikes.
Maybe I missed it, but I haven't seen any put downs of e-bikes on this site. My observation is similar to the one made in the article: many of the people I've spoken with IRL who are riding e-bikes are replacing car-miles, not bike-miles.
I have made the observation that I get an uncanny (and perhaps momentarily jealous) countenance when getting passed by somebody on an e-bike, but I think that's because e-bikes are not yet ubiquitous and hence there's some cognitive dissonance for a few moments (holy shit I suck! oh wait, that's probably an e-bike).
I was complaining about it being cold this morning but I think it was about 6*C. I can’t fathom these truly cold temps you are talking about. Today I put a hoodie under my bike jacket, gloves, and these goofy ear cover things.
https://www.amazon.com/Earbags-Bandless-Fleece-Warmers-Medium/dp/B0027BFOQK/ref=asc_df_B0027BFOQK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312546984196&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11134050977122354089&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031915&hvtargid=pla-571670165015&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60294405337&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312546984196&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11134050977122354089&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031915&hvtargid=pla-571670165015
My husband already does a good job of making fun of me. ;)I was complaining about it being cold this morning but I think it was about 6*C. I can’t fathom these truly cold temps you are talking about. Today I put a hoodie under my bike jacket, gloves, and these goofy ear cover things.
https://www.amazon.com/Earbags-Bandless-Fleece-Warmers-Medium/dp/B0027BFOQK/ref=asc_df_B0027BFOQK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312546984196&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11134050977122354089&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031915&hvtargid=pla-571670165015&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60294405337&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312546984196&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11134050977122354089&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031915&hvtargid=pla-571670165015
If you ever come to Canada, please leave those ear cover things at home. We will make fun of you ;-)
Welp, @ysette9 I'm with you I wear these: https://www.amazon.com/180s-Womens-Keystone-Warmer-Black/dp/B0056ZAPWW?ref_=ast_bbp_dpDorky ear gear people unite!
@TrMama Are those acceptable or still in the realm of "silly desert dweller"? :)
Welp, @ysette9 I'm with you I wear these: https://www.amazon.com/180s-Womens-Keystone-Warmer-Black/dp/B0056ZAPWW?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
@TrMama Are those acceptable or still in the realm of "silly desert dweller"? :)
Welp, @ysette9 I'm with you I wear these: https://www.amazon.com/180s-Womens-Keystone-Warmer-Black/dp/B0056ZAPWW?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
@TrMama Are those acceptable or still in the realm of "silly desert dweller"? :)
Those are better, but I've still never understood the point of earmuffs. Why not just wear a hat and keep your entire head warm? ;-)
Welp, @ysette9 I'm with you I wear these: https://www.amazon.com/180s-Womens-Keystone-Warmer-Black/dp/B0056ZAPWW?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
@TrMama Are those acceptable or still in the realm of "silly desert dweller"? :)
Those are better, but I've still never understood the point of earmuffs. Why not just wear a hat and keep your entire head warm? ;-)
Hats do not provide adequate ear protection. They generally do not cover the entire ear, especially if you wear glasses.
I suspect this is an issue only for people with unusually sensitive ears, like myself, but trust me--a hat cannot do the job of earmuffs. Or, as my younger child calls them, "ear puffs."
Too much exposed forehead. :P
What I re-learn to hate every winter while doing a long ride with a balaclava is the slow suffocation effect:
- Temps drop super cold
- I put on my balaclava for cycling
- Everything's cool for the first 15 - 30 minutes
- Then my heavy breathing starts to cause the area in front of my lips and mouth to become waterlogged
- Then every breath starts to become a mixture of air and half frozen sweat/condensed breath
- Waterboarding commences
- To battle the waterboarding effect, I start pulling the mask down so that my nose is free
- SWEET SWEET OXYGEN
- OW, THE AIR BEING SUCKED INTO MY LUNGS IS TOO COLD
- OH GOD I CAN'T FEEL MY NOSE
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- now it's all gross and even wetter than before somehow
- SWEET JESUS, WE'VE ADDED COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF FLOWING SNOT TO THE MIX
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
- *pulls mask down below nose*
- FUCK, IT'S COLD AGAIN.
- IS MY NOSE TURNING BLACK?
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
etc.
I've yet to make it past the 2 hr mark.
Too much exposed forehead. :P
What I re-learn to hate every winter while doing a long ride with a balaclava is the slow suffocation effect:
- Temps drop super cold
- I put on my balaclava for cycling
- Everything's cool for the first 15 - 30 minutes
- Then my heavy breathing starts to cause the area in front of my lips and mouth to become waterlogged
- Then every breath starts to become a mixture of air and half frozen sweat/condensed breath
- Waterboarding commences
- To battle the waterboarding effect, I start pulling the mask down so that my nose is free
- SWEET SWEET OXYGEN
- OW, THE AIR BEING SUCKED INTO MY LUNGS IS TOO COLD
- OH GOD I CAN'T FEEL MY NOSE
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- now it's all gross and even wetter than before somehow
- SWEET JESUS, WE'VE ADDED COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF FLOWING SNOT TO THE MIX
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
- *pulls mask down below nose*
- FUCK, IT'S COLD AGAIN.
- IS MY NOSE TURNING BLACK?
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
etc.
I've yet to make it past the 2 hr mark.
@TrMama I do have a hat that is long (?) enough to cover my ears but it never seems to stay down. I was thinking I was all acclimated to my cold weather area (biking to work in 12F is normal in the winter) but now I think I need to go visit you and become an apprentice for a season ;)
Too much exposed forehead. :PThere are definitely upsides to my HCOL area, one of them being that this dance is not a thing. :)
What I re-learn to hate every winter while doing a long ride with a balaclava is the slow suffocation effect:
- Temps drop super cold
- I put on my balaclava for cycling
- Everything's cool for the first 15 - 30 minutes
- Then my heavy breathing starts to cause the area in front of my lips and mouth to become waterlogged
- Then every breath starts to become a mixture of air and half frozen sweat/condensed breath
- Waterboarding commences
- To battle the waterboarding effect, I start pulling the mask down so that my nose is free
- SWEET SWEET OXYGEN
- OW, THE AIR BEING SUCKED INTO MY LUNGS IS TOO COLD
- OH GOD I CAN'T FEEL MY NOSE
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- now it's all gross and even wetter than before somehow
- SWEET JESUS, WE'VE ADDED COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF FLOWING SNOT TO THE MIX
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
- *pulls mask down below nose*
- FUCK, IT'S COLD AGAIN.
- IS MY NOSE TURNING BLACK?
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
etc.
I've yet to make it past the 2 hr mark.
My brother swears by a mask like #5 in this article for snowboarding in super cold temps. https://www.outsidepursuits.com/best-balaclava-ski-masks/
I think his even has the crazy scary print. The holes around the mouth are important for letting all that wet air out.
Full disclosure, I live on the Canadian side of the PNW. We call it the SW Coast, or Lotus Land, because it's basically the Hawaii of Canada. However, I have lived in colder parts of the country, so I'm not a total poser. And it does get coldish here ;-)@TrMama I do have a hat that is long (?) enough to cover my ears but it never seems to stay down. I was thinking I was all acclimated to my cold weather area (biking to work in 12F is normal in the winter) but now I think I need to go visit you and become an apprentice for a season ;)
Your hat might not be the right size. When it's below 0C here I wear a thin cycling toque and a thin Buff neck warmer with the neck warmer pulled partway up over my head. That means my ears are covered by 2 layers of fabric so even if the hat starts to slide up the neck warmer will still keep my ears warm.
Too much exposed forehead. :P
What I re-learn to hate every winter while doing a long ride with a balaclava is the slow suffocation effect:
- Temps drop super cold
- I put on my balaclava for cycling
- Everything's cool for the first 15 - 30 minutes
- Then my heavy breathing starts to cause the area in front of my lips and mouth to become waterlogged
- Then every breath starts to become a mixture of air and half frozen sweat/condensed breath
- Waterboarding commences
- To battle the waterboarding effect, I start pulling the mask down so that my nose is free
- SWEET SWEET OXYGEN
- OW, THE AIR BEING SUCKED INTO MY LUNGS IS TOO COLD
- OH GOD I CAN'T FEEL MY NOSE
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- now it's all gross and even wetter than before somehow
- SWEET JESUS, WE'VE ADDED COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF FLOWING SNOT TO THE MIX
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
- *pulls mask down below nose*
- FUCK, IT'S COLD AGAIN.
- IS MY NOSE TURNING BLACK?
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
etc.
I've yet to make it past the 2 hr mark.
Too much exposed forehead. :P
What I re-learn to hate every winter while doing a long ride with a balaclava is the slow suffocation effect:
- Temps drop super cold
- I put on my balaclava for cycling
- Everything's cool for the first 15 - 30 minutes
- Then my heavy breathing starts to cause the area in front of my lips and mouth to become waterlogged
- Then every breath starts to become a mixture of air and half frozen sweat/condensed breath
- Waterboarding commences
- To battle the waterboarding effect, I start pulling the mask down so that my nose is free
- SWEET SWEET OXYGEN
- OW, THE AIR BEING SUCKED INTO MY LUNGS IS TOO COLD
- OH GOD I CAN'T FEEL MY NOSE
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- now it's all gross and even wetter than before somehow
- SWEET JESUS, WE'VE ADDED COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF FLOWING SNOT TO THE MIX
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
- *pulls mask down below nose*
- FUCK, IT'S COLD AGAIN.
- IS MY NOSE TURNING BLACK?
- *pulls mask back over nose*
- GARGLE GARGLE CHOKE
etc.
I've yet to make it past the 2 hr mark.
Just a note to say that I have recovered from the debilitating theft of my bike, trailer and helmets. I rode in today on a brisk 31 degree day in fine style (should've remembered gloves though, brrrrr).
I got straightened out at the community bike shop in my neighborhood with a used commuter bike, replacement trailer and some helmets for $235.
Plus, I like supporting this bike shop. With a caseworker referral and $25, someone looking to get back on their feet can get a beater bike, helmet, lockup and lights from the shop, which I think is an awesome way to speed the biking revolution towards its logical terminal state of alleviating poverty, air pollution, obesity and depression for all of humanity.
Viva la revolucion!
There are definitely upsides to my HCOL area, one of them being that this dance is not a thing. :)
My night rides are going OK so far but I don't love it. I'm just not convinced people can see me from behind, even though I have a cherry bomb light and reflective fenders and I literally bike in a reflective construction-type vest. Or people turning. If I ever get moved down, it's going to be someone making a left-hand turn across the bike lane.
@GuitarStv this might be of use to you:
https://www.coldbike.com/2019/02/13/heat-exchanger-masks-a-love-story/
- Unless you have reflective stuff on your gloves, there's no point signalling at night.
I've been toying with the idea to get an inexpensive action camera for my biking (for safety/documentation) and kayaking. Then, yesterday, I nearly had my first accident - someone veered out from a parking spot into the bike lane without looking. They saw me at the last second (but were blocking the entire bike lane by that point), and I almost lost control of my bike while braking hard.
Helped convince me to make the leap. No, I don't really think it's going to make things a lot safer, but there are certainly cases where at least I'll have a good shot of the driver and license plate after they peel off, leaving me crumpled on the pavement.
Plus, I want to get some good kayaking shots. Hopefully the cheapo Chinese GoPro knockoffs work as well as everyone reviewing them seems to indicate.
Discovered a new benefit of bike commuting last night. You'll have lots of extra lights on hand for when the power goes out. Hooked my extra bright front light onto the kitchen cabinet pull so I could see well enough to cook dinner last night. Then used the less bright one to read before bed.
Note to self: Buy more batteries and candles . . .
Discovered a new benefit of bike commuting last night. You'll have lots of extra lights on hand for when the power goes out. Hooked my extra bright front light onto the kitchen cabinet pull so I could see well enough to cook dinner last night. Then used the less bright one to read before bed.
Note to self: Buy more batteries and candles . . .
Old post but just jumping in here to say - using an ebike battery with USB port, a person can keep their phone or tablet or lights charged for a long time in case of a storm event that knocks out power.
Google says 19.2 WH to charge a phone. 674 WH (my battery) / 19.2 = 35 days. Of course the low voltage cut off would prevent accessing the whole 674 WH I'd guess.
A his and her pair of ebikes would be a nice tool for storms.
Do the police in your part of the world actually respond to "near miss" reports?
I live in an area that's covered by 3 different police forces. Depending on what part of town I'm in, responsibility could fall to one of 2 city police forces or the RCMP. The RCMP take near miss complaints seriously and will follow up with the driver (if you can give plate# and a decent description), but the city forces just blow me off completely. Video would only be helpful if it's taken seriously.
The one thing video might be more helpful with is if you're ever physically assaulted by another person. Even attempted assault is a crime so hopefully it would help and it'd give the police a better description of the person(s). Or better yet, maybe an obvious camera would simply deter anyone considering beating you up.
If you want a toy for kayaking, that's a totally different discussion ;-)
I'm the author of that article, I was surprised to see traffic on my blog coming from here!
I've spent a great deal of time with a bike sandwiched between my butt and snow, so I've developed a bunch of techniques for coping with the cold that goes with that. Anyway. I am available to answer questions about the masks or any other aspect of winter cycling.
I'm sure there are many solutions, and probably some really elegant ones out there, but I'm just using some clip-on LED lights from ebay to augment my primary rear light. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-LED-Safety-Light-w-Strap-Clip-On-Strobe-Running-Lights-for-Bike-Runner-Dog/392312090639?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3D44becb8b029d4f1bbca0fa2eadc3e979%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D392312090639%26itm%3D392312090639%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2053904&_trksid=p2053904.c100227.m3827
Seems to be reasonable battery life on them...and just takes a coin battery replacement.
Just want to vent that I've had six flat tires in my last four rides. WTF!?!?!?
As far as I can tell, one (possibly two) was a pinch flat (my fault for being too lazy to fully air my tires and gawking at somebody being pulled over as I smashed over an uneven portion of sidewalk), two have been thorns, and the other two are a mystery.
I've switched over to slime tubes in hopes to stem the tide, fingers crossed. Also, props to the Tube Fairy, who stopped and gave me his spare tube when I was ten miles from home and had already used my spare tube on an earlier flat just a few miles back.
Seriously considering switching to tubeless for my road bike if my failure rate doesn't start decreasing significantly.
Seriously considering switching to tubeless for my road bike if my failure rate doesn't start decreasing significantly.In the short term switching to tubeless is asking for new problems and additional expenses... requires special tires, special rims, special rim strips, special valve cores, sealant, sealant injector... but long term they are pretty nice. Tubeless road stuff is still fairly new, so compatibility across manufacturers is spotty. I switched from Continental Gatorskin to GP5000TL tires in July and they've been nice, but getting them on my rims was incredibly difficult. Keeping surfaces clean while mounting everything is important along with choosing the right sealant.
Seriously considering switching to tubeless for my road bike if my failure rate doesn't start decreasing significantly.In the short term switching to tubeless is asking for new problems and additional expenses... requires special tires, special rims, special rim strips, special valve cores, sealant, sealant injector... but long term they are pretty nice. Tubeless road stuff is still fairly new, so compatibility across manufacturers is spotty. I switched from Continental Gatorskin to GP5000TL tires in July and they've been nice, but getting them on my rims was incredibly difficult. Keeping surfaces clean while mounting everything is important along with choosing the right sealant.
I switched from Continental Gatorskin to GP5000TL tires in July and they've been nice, but getting them on my rims was incredibly difficult. Keeping surfaces clean while mounting everything is important along with choosing the right sealant.
Tubeless also don't work in the winter. The sealants don't like cold.
At what temperature does tubeless sealant stop working? My personal cold limit currently seems to be about at freezing temp (for the 20-mile ride), below which I'll simply take public transportation in the mornings and ride home when it is nicer.
I broke down and bought a fairly expensive pair of rain pants. I managed last year with cheapo gear, but after getting soaked a couple of times I sprung for an actual waterproof jacket/shell, which turned out to be a big improvement. Decided it would be nice to have pants that I can slip over my work pants and reduce the amount of time gearing up/down (and drying myself) on those wet days.
I also got a rain cover for the bike. I have to park outside at work, and leaving the e-bike in the rain for extended periods isn't recommended. Instead of fiddling with covering individual electric components (plus the seat, rear bag, panniers), I realized that it would be easier just to cover up the whole darn thing.
Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
Thanks for the reply. I ended up finding the Badass FB page and through that was able to get a link to purchase directly and have the product shipped to me. Yay! Installation was pretty easy. Much better than the open heart surgery required for the other tuners on the market.Okay, I could use some help. I need to fix the problem of the limiter on my ebike. I thought it didn’t have one when I bought it and apparently the sales person at the store was misinformed and/or lied.
In any case, I’ve been researching and it looks like an BadAss Box 4 will work for my Giant Explore E. The only issue is that they ship all over the world except the US.
I can’t find it anywhere that will ship to me, even eBay. Does anyone have any idea how I can get around this?
Have you cruised the Endless Sphere website? They can get pretty technical but a source for what you want might be there somewhere.
Just want to vent that I've had six flat tires in my last four rides. WTF!?!?!?
As far as I can tell, one (possibly two) was a pinch flat (my fault for being too lazy to fully air my tires and gawking at somebody being pulled over as I smashed over an uneven portion of sidewalk), two have been thorns, and the other two are a mystery.
I've switched over to slime tubes in hopes to stem the tide, fingers crossed. Also, props to the Tube Fairy, who stopped and gave me his spare tube when I was ten miles from home and had already used my spare tube on an earlier flat just a few miles back.
Seriously considering switching to tubeless for my road bike if my failure rate doesn't start decreasing significantly.
Thanks for the reply. I ended up finding the Badass FB page and through that was able to get a link to purchase directly and have the product shipped to me. Yay! Installation was pretty easy. Much better than the open heart surgery required for the other tuners on the market.
Drizzle on the way home tonight. In my 50 minute bike ride home tonight I saw two accidents happen (one guy who rear-ended a police cruiser . . . one guy who pulled a u-turn in a busy 4 lane road and got t-boned) and rode past three other accidents. Ugh. It was like a frigging war zone.
*Best thing ever yelled out a car window at me: "GET A JOB, ASSHOLE!"
Now that it is getting darker I’d like to light up my bike trailer like a Christmas tree when I take my kid to and from school. Can anyone recommend a cheap and easy way of doing that?
Good suggestion.Now that it is getting darker I’d like to light up my bike trailer like a Christmas tree when I take my kid to and from school. Can anyone recommend a cheap and easy way of doing that?
EL lights (https://www.amazon.com/JYtrend-Neon-Light-Wire-Battery/dp/B017GCSVU0/ref=asc_df_B017GCSVU0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167158513139&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16991623896782278984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030289&hvtargid=pla-304807278430&psc=1)are fun and can be ordered for <$10 (although you get what you pay for, haven't had a unit last for longer than 1 year)
Also could get some wheel lights - https://www.monkeylectric.com/ (https://www.monkeylectric.com/)
Take a picture once you trick out your ride :)
We had the nicest weather in at least a month today for my ride in . . . 10 degrees and sunny! No snow or rain!
I didn't file a police report. Nothing to file really. I think the car might have been gray? Nobody saw the license plate, or where it was going. Pretty sure it was a car though.
I didn't file a police report. Nothing to file really. I think the car might have been gray? Nobody saw the license plate, or where it was going. Pretty sure it was a car though.
But the city and police can't do anything to improve road conditions or enforcement if they don't even know there's been an accident. Your local police force may even have a basic web form you can fill out on their website.
So. My bike lock has been giving me a hard time lately. I put the key in, try to turn, and it doesn't budge. I thought at first that it was so cold that it was frozen. But even when it's about 40 degrees out, it still doesn't budge. The last few weeks I've just been holding onto it for dear life and basically forcing it to turn. Well, last week I did that and the key broke (not inside the lock, thank god - more like the handle of the key broke). Anyway, has anyone ever experienced this? Do I maybe need to oil up the lock or something so that the key starts to turn again?
I didn't file a police report. Nothing to file really. I think the car might have been gray? Nobody saw the license plate, or where it was going. Pretty sure it was a car though.
But the city and police can't do anything to improve road conditions or enforcement if they don't even know there's been an accident. Your local police force may even have a basic web form you can fill out on their website.
We did a ride a few days ago out of our neighborhood through larger and busier streets with my oldest on her bike for the first time. She did surprisingly well. She obeyed my commands to stay out of traffic and didn’t complain about being tired. We probably went 3 mi in total, so not a long way at all, but for a 5 year old I think it was a great first real ride. Every other bike ride we have had one or the other of us running beside her, so this required more trust on our end that she would pay attention.
We did a ride a few days ago out of our neighborhood through larger and busier streets with my oldest on her bike for the first time. She did surprisingly well. She obeyed my commands to stay out of traffic and didn’t complain about being tired. We probably went 3 mi in total, so not a long way at all, but for a 5 year old I think it was a great first real ride. Every other bike ride we have had one or the other of us running beside her, so this required more trust on our end that she would pay attention.
Gah, I knew things were too good to be true.Glad to hear you're feeling well enough to be able to post about it. Sounds like a really frightening event. Hope you're able to heal up without any lasting damage.
Had a car sideswipe me on the way home last night...
Been biking to work every day for the past six months (since I started my new job). Weight is down, leg strength is up, net worth increased dramatically.High Five!
Bicycles really are money-printing machines.
Slipped on a patch of black ice last night on the bike trail and went down, but fortunately I was going an appropriate speed for a librarian of a certain age (ie, very slow) and wasn't hurt.
I'm concerned that my rear light is super ineffective because it doesn't stay put. I think it used to have a mount, but that is long since lost or broken. It just has a clip now, and I attach the clip to my rear rack, but it always flips up or down so that the light is going either onto the wheel or up into the sky rather than behind me. I do not bike in a backpack, so I can't attach it to that.
I do bike in a reflective vest and my fenders are also reflective, so people using headlights can almost certainly see me. Still, it seems like I should have a working light. Any ideas?
Dittoes on getting a new mount. You can also get a flashing LED safety vest from Amazon.Slipped on a patch of black ice last night on the bike trail and went down, but fortunately I was going an appropriate speed for a librarian of a certain age (ie, very slow) and wasn't hurt.
I'm concerned that my rear light is super ineffective because it doesn't stay put. I think it used to have a mount, but that is long since lost or broken. It just has a clip now, and I attach the clip to my rear rack, but it always flips up or down so that the light is going either onto the wheel or up into the sky rather than behind me. I do not bike in a backpack, so I can't attach it to that.
I do bike in a reflective vest and my fenders are also reflective, so people using headlights can almost certainly see me. Still, it seems like I should have a working light. Any ideas?
Get a new mount. Planet bike sells replacement mounts for their lights that also fit some other brands I've had.
Honestly, a tail light is important enough that it wouldn't be a bad idea to run two (I've currently got two regular rear bike lights on my bike, and four tiny LED lights hanging off my backpack. You really want cars behind you to see you.
Slipped on a patch of black ice last night on the bike trail and went down, but fortunately I was going an appropriate speed for a librarian of a certain age (ie, very slow) and wasn't hurt.
I'm concerned that my rear light is super ineffective because it doesn't stay put. I think it used to have a mount, but that is long since lost or broken. It just has a clip now, and I attach the clip to my rear rack, but it always flips up or down so that the light is going either onto the wheel or up into the sky rather than behind me. I do not bike in a backpack, so I can't attach it to that.
I do bike in a reflective vest and my fenders are also reflective, so people using headlights can almost certainly see me. Still, it seems like I should have a working light. Any ideas?
We had the nicest weather in at least a month today for my ride in . . . 10 degrees and sunny! No snow or rain!
Gah, I knew things were too good to be true.
Had a car sideswipe me on the way home last night. I think (although details are kinda fuzzy) that it hit either my arms or my handlebars with it's mirror, causing the wheel to spin 90 degrees to the direction I was travelling. I was doing about 35 kph at the time, so this sorta launched me over the bars and I ended up cracking my helmet pretty spectacularly, landing on my left side, and sliding a good piece up the road. Also whacked my left knee really, really hard. Looking back at it, I was being stupid and not completely taking the lane - trying to avoid blocking traffic. The driver was trying to squeeze through space that the vehicle simply didn't fit in.
To their credit, the driver peeled away immediately to make sure that he or she wasn't going to be in the way after the accident. Several people from surrounding houses and from cars that saw the accident did stop to check if I was OK though. They all said that I was very visible with the four lights in the back and the two in front, the neon orange jacket, and all the reflective stuff - so it's not like the guy didn't see me.
All in all, things came out OK. I made it the remaining 10 km home. Derailleurs weren't damaged, front wheel needs a little bit of truing, and the frame isn't bent. I lost a lot of skin on the one side of my body, but managed to avoid any major tears in my jacket, jersey, or tights) and have a good amount of swelling on my left knee and wrist, but nothing is sprained or broken. Swelling on the knee is a lot better than last night as well, where I could barely make it up and down the stairs to our bedroom. My bar tape is a little scuffed, and I need a new helmet - could have been worse. Sadly breaks my streak of not being hit by a car for five or six years (but continues my streak of having the car that hits me not stick around afterwards.)
I suppose a lot of drivers don't actually know the traffic laws for bikes and just think you're not allowed in the road.Unfortunately true. I've been yelled at for taking a lane with a sharrow in it. Fortunately as more cyclists take to the streets (thanks electric bike share) it is getting a little better. Unfortunately an equally large percentage of cyclists don't seem to know that sidewalks are NOT for riding bikes (at least not at full speed when you are not 100% sure there aren't pedestrians nearby).
Got cursed at this morning! Not sure why this lady was all hot and bothered, as the roads were nearly empty, and I didn't really impede her, but she was angry enough to open her window and yell at me to get out of the *** road as I rode away...while riding completely legally and safely.
I suppose a lot of drivers don't actually know the traffic laws for bikes and just think you're not allowed in the road.
Got cursed at this morning! Not sure why this lady was all hot and bothered, as the roads were nearly empty, and I didn't really impede her, but she was angry enough to open her window and yell at me to get out of the *** road as I rode away...while riding completely legally and safely.
I suppose a lot of drivers don't actually know the traffic laws for bikes and just think you're not allowed in the road.
Got cursed at this morning! Not sure why this lady was all hot and bothered, as the roads were nearly empty, and I didn't really impede her, but she was angry enough to open her window and yell at me to get out of the *** road as I rode away...while riding completely legally and safely.
I suppose a lot of drivers don't actually know the traffic laws for bikes and just think you're not allowed in the road.
She is just hating going to work and needed to take it out on someone... ;) Glad you are okay.
Also unexpected was the lady telling me yesterday - while we were waiting for a crosswalk - about how I should only need a camera like that for POV porn, and giving me website recommendations.
Small thing, but I notice that when it is damp out my bell barely functions, even if it is dry itself. Anyone else experience this?
Small thing, but I notice that when it is damp out my bell barely functions, even if it is dry itself. Anyone else experience this?
Is it just the standard metal type with a knocker? It might be getting weighed down by the water condensation (maybe on the underside?), which reduces ring time.
As a side note - I don't bother with a bell on my bike. Using a bell is far more dangerous than using your voice . . . it's quieter (and completely impossible for someone in a car with the windows closed to hear and it requires that you remove one of your hands from your brakes. Also, the damned things always go ding when I go over railway tracks/potholes and I find that really annoying.
Small thing, but I notice that when it is damp out my bell barely functions, even if it is dry itself. Anyone else experience this?
Is it just the standard metal type with a knocker? It might be getting weighed down by the water condensation (maybe on the underside?), which reduces ring time.
As a side note - I don't bother with a bell on my bike. Using a bell is far more dangerous than using your voice . . . it's quieter (and completely impossible for someone in a car with the windows closed to hear and it requires that you remove one of your hands from your brakes. Also, the damned things always go ding when I go over railway tracks/potholes and I find that really annoying.
On the flip side, there is a guy I regularly pass (in opposite directions) on my commute home who rings his bell as he's passing. The sound is "clear as a bell", very noticeable from far away, and makes a really sweet doppler effect as he and I fly by at 30+ mph. I also think it is probably less intimidating to other riders than hearing somebody yell at them "on your left!!!!" when they're close enough to get within earshot. (TL;DR: I don't have a bell, but I've been tempted.)
Small thing, but I notice that when it is damp out my bell barely functions, even if it is dry itself. Anyone else experience this?
Small thing, but I notice that when it is damp out my bell barely functions, even if it is dry itself. Anyone else experience this?
Is it just the standard metal type with a knocker? It might be getting weighed down by the water condensation (maybe on the underside?), which reduces ring time.
As a side note - I don't bother with a bell on my bike. Using a bell is far more dangerous than using your voice . . . it's quieter (and completely impossible for someone in a car with the windows closed to hear and it requires that you remove one of your hands from your brakes. Also, the damned things always go ding when I go over railway tracks/potholes and I find that really annoying.
On the flip side, there is a guy I regularly pass (in opposite directions) on my commute home who rings his bell as he's passing. The sound is "clear as a bell", very noticeable from far away, and makes a really sweet doppler effect as he and I fly by at 30+ mph. I also think it is probably less intimidating to other riders than hearing somebody yell at them "on your left!!!!" when they're close enough to get within earshot. (TL;DR: I don't have a bell, but I've been tempted.)
If I spent much time riding on bike paths, I'd probably go with a bell. It seems like a more polite way of giving notice that you're there. But 99% of my riding is either on busy multi-lane city streets or way out in farmland. A bell is kinda useless in either situation.
I ride mostly in bike lanes on roads that are so congested the cars are basically at a standstill.
So . . . it was nippy this morning. -13 when I left home. Got in to work OK, started working . . . but then at around 11:00 we got an email that the water wasn't working. So at 11:05 we all got sent home (apparently it's a fire code thing because the sprinklers don't work.
Got on my bike and headed home. A water main outside of work burst and was in the process of dumping hundreds of gallons across the road. Unfortunately, this water was about two or three feet deep in parts of the road and a car got stuck in the middle of the road while trying to get through . . . blocking traffic up all the way back to my work. So, I shouldered my bike and walked across a couple lawns, reached a relatively dry part of the sidewalk, and gunned it through the spots where the road water was flooding across the sidewalk past all my co-workers. On the sidewalk the water was only about a foot and a half in the deepest places. Co-workers are probably still waiting to get out of there, poor guys.
So . . . it was nippy this morning. -13 when I left home. Got in to work OK, started working . . . but then at around 11:00 we got an email that the water wasn't working. So at 11:05 we all got sent home (apparently it's a fire code thing because the sprinklers don't work.
Got on my bike and headed home. A water main outside of work burst and was in the process of dumping hundreds of gallons across the road. Unfortunately, this water was about two or three feet deep in parts of the road and a car got stuck in the middle of the road while trying to get through . . . blocking traffic up all the way back to my work. So, I shouldered my bike and walked across a couple lawns, reached a relatively dry part of the sidewalk, and gunned it through the spots where the road water was flooding across the sidewalk past all my co-workers. On the sidewalk the water was only about a foot and a half in the deepest places. Co-workers are probably still waiting to get out of there, poor guys.
Reckon the water has turned to ice yet?
I suppose I could get one of those electric horns if I really wanted.
I suppose I could get one of those electric horns if I really wanted.
I got the "world's loudest bike horn" for Christmas last year, and I'm still not certain whether drivers can hear it. It gives me a sense of satisfaction to tell them off when they deserve it, though.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=middle+hornI suppose I could get one of those electric horns if I really wanted.
I got the "world's loudest bike horn" for Christmas last year, and I'm still not certain whether drivers can hear it. It gives me a sense of satisfaction to tell them off when they deserve it, though.
I still use nature's "middle horn".
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=middle+hornI suppose I could get one of those electric horns if I really wanted.
I got the "world's loudest bike horn" for Christmas last year, and I'm still not certain whether drivers can hear it. It gives me a sense of satisfaction to tell them off when they deserve it, though.
I still use nature's "middle horn".
Fart?
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=middle+hornI suppose I could get one of those electric horns if I really wanted.
I got the "world's loudest bike horn" for Christmas last year, and I'm still not certain whether drivers can hear it. It gives me a sense of satisfaction to tell them off when they deserve it, though.
I still use nature's "middle horn".
Fart?
I just crossed 2,000 miles of commuting on my ebike since I started again in April.
Hoping to keep up the pace this winter. I have been wearing my armored motorcycle gear and a snowmobile helmet and staying pretty warm! I have heated gloves on order though.
(https://i.imgur.com/Wg2mjErl.jpg)
I've developed a system of rubber bands to securely attach them to my backpack. The best ones are the thick bands used to tie together broccoli.
The unique thing about biking is you get flipped off for obeying the law. *grumble grumble*What were you doing, taking the lane because there wasn't space to safely ride on the side of the road? How dare you delay motorists a few seconds.
The unique thing about biking is you get flipped off for obeying the law. *grumble grumble*
The unique thing about biking is you get flipped off for obeying the law. *grumble grumble*What were you doing, taking the lane because there wasn't space to safely ride on the side of the road? How dare you delay motorists a few seconds.
This guy honked at me from behind - I turned my head to check what was happening, saw nothing concerning, waved and continued as usual - and he intentionally passed too close to me, half in the lane, slowly enough that I got several seconds of his middle finger. (He got those same several seconds of my bike horn.)
And then we IMMEDIATELY got stuck behind the same bus for multiple minutes.
The unique thing about biking is you get flipped off for obeying the law. *grumble grumble*What were you doing, taking the lane because there wasn't space to safely ride on the side of the road? How dare you delay motorists a few seconds.
Yep, pretty much. The road in question has (1) a shoulder full of parked cars, (2) multiple signs/markings indicating that bikes get a full lane, and (3) three lanes going in each direction. He had plenty of room to go around.
This guy honked at me from behind - I turned my head to check what was happening, saw nothing concerning, waved and continued as usual - and he intentionally passed too close to me, half in the lane, slowly enough that I got several seconds of his middle finger. (He got those same several seconds of my bike horn.)
And then we IMMEDIATELY got stuck behind the same bus for multiple minutes.
I rode in to work yesterday and home from work today (splitting the commute while I build some strength). So much easier now I loosened my brakes which were constantly on juuuust a little bit (just enough to be riding a resistance bike the whole way!)!
Now to figure out why my gear changes go “click... nothing... nothing... *CLUNK*” especially when changing down gears to try and get up a hill. This is not the first bike I’ve had this happen with - am I doing something wrong? Any tips?
The way the cable sits on my front derailleur, when I am in one gear (I can't ever remember if it's high or low, but the "easier" one), the cable sticks out & brushes against my leg. This means the cap eventually comes off the end and then I just have pokey wires unraveling. Besides not using that gear, any suggestions on how to fix that? Also, should I be worried if the cable isn't bound together?
The way the cable sits on my front derailleur, when I am in one gear (I can't ever remember if it's high or low, but the "easier" one), the cable sticks out & brushes against my leg. This means the cap eventually comes off the end and then I just have pokey wires unraveling. Besides not using that gear, any suggestions on how to fix that? Also, should I be worried if the cable isn't bound together?
Bend the cable with some pliers to an angle so it doesn't brush your leg. Try switching to different gear combinations to make sure that it's not brushing your leg in all settings.
As far as the cap coming off, yeah that happens. I have a small bottle of black nail polish that I paint the end inch or so of my cables with (and also do touch up when I scrape the black paint on my bike). This keeps the threads from coming apart better than those little press on caps.
My gears are struggling also to switch smoothly all the time and sometimes will fail to shift and then shift suddenly two gears at a time with a CLUNK. I figure I need to take it in for maintenance but I am curious what others think.
As far as the cap coming off, yeah that happens. I have a small bottle of black nail polish that I paint the end inch or so of my cables with (and also do touch up when I scrape the black paint on my bike). This keeps the threads from coming apart better than those little press on caps.Nail polish sounds like a good idea.
Cut the damned cables you anarchist! :P That's wasted weight you're carrying around every time you cycle!It certainly isn't the greatest source of extra weight.
The coldest time is really the time required without mitts to lock and unlock: doors, bike cage, bike lock etc.
The coldest time is really the time required without mitts to lock and unlock: doors, bike cage, bike lock etc.
Use thin gloves beneath your mitts. Then you can leave the thin gloves on when you're locking up and putting things on/stripping them off of the bike, and slip your mitts back on immediately afterwards.
Hello. I was wondering if anyone commuted on a single speed bike (with a freehub, not a fixie)? I have a main bike that I use for longer rides but it’s too good to leave anywhere. I could do with a bike to purely act as a mode of transport e.g cycle to friends, post office, and other errands etc. I would expect to only use it within a 5 mile radius of where I live and that’s fairly flat so hills aren’t a concern.
I was looking for the cheapest bike with the lowest maintenance and a SS seemed like the best bet, but I don’t know much about them. Anyone use one or know of what to look out for maintenance wise?
https://www.straycatbicycles.com/Bicycles.html
Single speed commuter built by a local guy- nothing fancy, but it does what I need it to. My city's pretty flat so single speed works just fine, and there's no extra maintenance/weight from components I don't really need. Bought it just over a year ago, and I haven't made any major modifications to it yet. I just bought a set of Ergo grips to give me some added hand positions but haven't installed them yet. Will probably add a rack/panniers on the back at some point.
Thanks for the reply turketron. That bike looks so simple and elegant! How’s changing tyres with the wheels not being QR. Is it simple to tension the chain properly or have you not had to do this yet?
I rode in the snow for the first time ever on Friday. I normally have a 25 minute commute over about 4 miles but I had an errand to run in an inconvenient part of town. The first leg of my trip went totally fine, but by the time I finished my errand & got back on the bike, the snow had really picked up & the ride home was pretty treacherous. I walked as much as I biked and made a really bad judgement call in riding across a metal bridge which was SUPER slippery. Probably not something I'll make a habit out of, but I was back on my bike this morning and the roads are clear here in Chicago!
I finally pulled the trigger and got rid of my vehicle!
I moved to an urban area about 5 months ago and have been riding my bike to work (~5 miles one way) maybe once every 2-3 weeks. Since the new year I upped it to riding to work once a week. At the beginning of February I sold my vehicle and am forcing myself to ride more often.
I plan to be posting here more often.
Just want to vent that I've had six flat tires in my last four rides. WTF!?!?!?
As far as I can tell, one (possibly two) was a pinch flat (my fault for being too lazy to fully air my tires and gawking at somebody being pulled over as I smashed over an uneven portion of sidewalk), two have been thorns, and the other two are a mystery.
I've switched over to slime tubes in hopes to stem the tide, fingers crossed. Also, props to the Tube Fairy, who stopped and gave me his spare tube when I was ten miles from home and had already used my spare tube on an earlier flat just a few miles back.
Seriously considering switching to tubeless for my road bike if my failure rate doesn't start decreasing significantly.
I'm a bit concerned that my helmet isn't offering me the best protection. I have a prominent bony forehead, and while the helmet covers it, I can't seem to make it secure - I can push it backwards off my forehead without much force. Tightening the helmet makes it grab tighter to the back of my skull and actually pull backwards off my forehead. Given that I use the stuff in there for thinking, does anyone have tips for protecting unusual skull shapes? My helmet is approximately like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5)
I'm a bit concerned that my helmet isn't offering me the best protection. I have a prominent bony forehead, and while the helmet covers it, I can't seem to make it secure - I can push it backwards off my forehead without much force. Tightening the helmet makes it grab tighter to the back of my skull and actually pull backwards off my forehead. Given that I use the stuff in there for thinking, does anyone have tips for protecting unusual skull shapes? My helmet is approximately like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5)
I'm a bit concerned that my helmet isn't offering me the best protection. I have a prominent bony forehead, and while the helmet covers it, I can't seem to make it secure - I can push it backwards off my forehead without much force. Tightening the helmet makes it grab tighter to the back of my skull and actually pull backwards off my forehead. Given that I use the stuff in there for thinking, does anyone have tips for protecting unusual skull shapes? My helmet is approximately like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Lightweight-Certified-Adjustable-Detachable/dp/B01NGZ44H1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bike+helmet&qid=1583350572&sr=8-5)
Helmets also usually come with extra bits of padding so you can adjust the fit. If you can find the tiny bag of padding bits your helmet came with, they may help. Although, if it's too small, cramming more padding in there won't help.
Helmets do come in different sizes and methods of adjustment. Properly adjusted, your helmet should fit on your head snugly enough that it can't slip forward/back/side to side, and the strap under your chin should be snug but not tight.
From what you're describing of the helmet it kinda sounds like it's too small for you.
From what you're describing of the helmet it kinda sounds like it's too small for you.
From what you're describing of the helmet it kinda sounds like it's too small for you.
That does seem reasonable. I loosened it all the way and it does sit more forward on my forehead, but as I tighten it again it gets uncomfortably tight in the forward-backward direction while it's still loose on the side-to-side. It seems I have an unusually long and skinny skull. My trouble is that the only helmets I've encountered are very one-size-fits-all. The local bike shop caters to a lot of local athletes and is pretty pricey; is that my best option?
Manufacturers make helmets that fit differently, so when you find one that works for you you'll have a starting point the next time you need a helmet.I wouldn't count on this. By the time you need to replace your helmet the manufacturer has probably changed their product line several times and fit might not match what they had before.
This week will mark the first week in eight years that I've worked, been healthy, and not biked in even one day. :(
I've been considering heading out for a ride around town just to clear my head before another day of WFH in the basement. Does it still count as social distancing if cars are close passing me?
This week will mark the first week in eight years that I've worked, been healthy, and not biked in even one day. :(
I've been considering heading out for a ride around town just to clear my head before another day of WFH in the basement. Does it still count as social distancing if cars are close passing me?
This week will mark the first week in eight years that I've worked, been healthy, and not biked in even one day. :(
I've been considering heading out for a ride around town just to clear my head before another day of WFH in the basement. Does it still count as social distancing if cars are close passing me?
Just take the lane so they're forced to give you more space ;-)
I went for a ride after work today. It was the first time in many years I've biked without having a destination. Is this how recreational riders do it? My bike is so much lighter without the loaded panniers.
Now that we're not allowed to bike to work my partner and I biked 8 miles round trip today - and it felt short! I think biking is a pretty dang socially distant option - the only time I MIGHT have come within 6 feet of someone was when a guy buried in his phone almost stepped into the crosswalk at the wrong time. It's certainly better than using a communal gym, if that were even allowed.Is bike commuting specifically not allowed in a shelter in place situation?
Italy, France, and Spain have all banned outdoor activity now, claiming it's dangerous & could bring more people into their already overloaded hospitals. Really hoping we don't go this direction in the US.
Fellow bike commuters beware.
With the reduced amount of cars on the road, many drivers are paying less attention to their surroundings. So be careful.
I can understand wanting the protection commuting to work on a Pinarello!
Sports Basement is offering 30% everything on their online store: https://shop.sportsbasement.com/
... because sometimes a Mustachian needs a Wahoo KICKR.
Sports Basement is offering 30% everything on their online store: https://shop.sportsbasement.com/
... because sometimes a Mustachian needs a Wahoo KICKR.
If I was riding more regularly as opposed to running, I'd be seriously considering a Kickr or another smart trainer.
I tested it last night, it's a big improvement over a standard turbo trainer. The variation in resistance makes it easier to ride longer and it's closer to being out on the road. I actually have to downshift(in whatever mode I'm using) to go uphill.Sports Basement is offering 30% everything on their online store: https://shop.sportsbasement.com/
... because sometimes a Mustachian needs a Wahoo KICKR.
If I was riding more regularly as opposed to running, I'd be seriously considering a Kickr or another smart trainer.
UGH I'm so annoyed! I am cleared to start trying for normal range of motion with 90 degrees expected in about 2 weeks. So, I was like perfect excuse to buy a bike trainer since I can't go to the PT clinic and gyms are all closed. But the Wahoo Snap is sold out everywhere and backordered for two months. Should have sprung for the deal that was posted here last week. I thought it would be longer before I was cleared to try to ride. :( :( :( :( Called every LBS and found one with the Saris M2 on order set to arrive next Friday, so I guess I'll settle for that one.Just bike outside. It's typically quite easy to maintain social distancing on a bicycle. Of course, I've only gone out a couple of times just to bike on days that I haven't been actually commuted so far.
Hope everyone is staying safe & finding a way to get their biking fix!
UGH I'm so annoyed! I am cleared to start trying for normal range of motion with 90 degrees expected in about 2 weeks. So, I was like perfect excuse to buy a bike trainer since I can't go to the PT clinic and gyms are all closed. But the Wahoo Snap is sold out everywhere and backordered for two months. Should have sprung for the deal that was posted here last week. I thought it would be longer before I was cleared to try to ride. :( :( :( :( Called every LBS and found one with the Saris M2 on order set to arrive next Friday, so I guess I'll settle for that one.Just bike outside. It's typically quite easy to maintain social distancing on a bicycle. Of course, I've only gone out a couple of times just to bike on days that I haven't been actually commuted so far.
Hope everyone is staying safe & finding a way to get their biking fix!
Hi y’all! Essentially a biking newb here- haven’t rode a bike since wandering around my neighborhood as a kid. ...
Hi y’all! Essentially a biking newb here- haven’t rode a bike since wandering around my neighborhood as a kid. ...
Well, it took 19 months, several practices, multiple failed attempts (always something that I would need to be home/elsewhere quickly for), taking up an exercise routine so I can pair that routine back by way of biking to work, nice weather, and a pandemic to clear out the traffic and office... but here I am.
Thanks to all the other people who posted after their first time to get me over that final mental barrier this morning when I was telling myself literally anything would be smarter than biking in.
I forgot my glasses :) (I'll be okay)
Ahhhh, I've run two errands by bike this week and its been FABULOUS!
Now that we aren't doing 1/month big shops, to limit contact... I went out specifically for milk, cream, and a few veggies. I use to love heading to store by bike for an item or two a few times a week - an excuse to bike more than anything else.... and the other errand was to our community center.
I really miss my commute (recreational biking doesn't fit well into our days), I'm looking forward to daycare, school, work commutes - but those look a long way off still.
So here's a basic question. I know a bike helmet is only good for one collision. Is it still good if it has a clumsy owner who regularly drops it from waist height onto concrete?
So here's a basic question. I know a bike helmet is only good for one collision. Is it still good if it has a clumsy owner who regularly drops it from waist height onto concrete?
It's hard to say. The foam in a bike helmet is designed to protect in a single crash. Dropping it from waist height onto concrete can cause the foam to crack/compress under the plastic shell (where you can't see it). It's possible that the helmet is perfectly fine, but it's also possible that it's compromised.
Given that you can get a new helmet for as cheap as 20$, I'd be inclined to just do that. If you can't do this for some reason, at the very least I'd carefully go over the inside of the helmet looking for cracks, then gently press on the plastic shell and try to feel for hidden indents underneath (indicating that compression has taken place). If you find either, then toss the helmet. Even if the helmet survives one (or two drops), if this is a regular thing, then you should buy multiple helmets and get used to throwing them out.
Our high schooler is ebiking to school. Upgraded their bike lock. Loves it. Wakes them up, helps them unwind on the way home, feels more in control of their life during COVID. Way better than riding the bus and we like not having to brave the school line during our work hours to get them home. That's a 45 min round trip despite the small town. Gas and wear and tear on the car too.My love for cycling is rooted in the feeling of independence using my bike gave me in high school. Through most of high school, I delivered a small paper route by bike. I also visited a friend about 5 miles from my home independently by bike once - complete with planning my route with paper maps. My dad cycle commuted for decades as well, so I've never really thought of cycling to work as an unusual option.
Love where we live but sometimes wish it was flat and thus more bicycle physics friendly. Ebike is doing great with something north of 1100 miles on it. Was a ~$1200 Aliexpress purchase.
I use mountain bike pedals on my road bike . . . because it's important that I be able to walk around not like a penguin sometimes when off the bike. Pedals are all interchangeable, if you don't like the ones on your fancy bike stick whatever makes you happy on it. You can even take the ones on your other bikes off and swap.
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
A mile is a really short distance. You could walk it in less than 20 min and not worry about the bike, or you could do as GuitarStv suggested and just bike slowly. If there are steep hills or scary stretches of road, you could also just walk those parts and bike the rest of it. Personally, I'd bike in my work clothes and makeup for that distance with the exception of heels. If you have to wear those then pack them and bike in sneakers.
I wanted to join this thread and do my bit for the environment, but I'm really struggling to convince my fiance on this one.Yes, a regular bicycle would be awkward due to its size on such a commute. However, if you learned to use a unicycle it might be totally doable.
She keeps arguing that it's completely unnecessary to cycle from the bedroom to my desk in the spare room.
I wanted to join this thread and do my bit for the environment, but I'm really struggling to convince my fiance on this one.Yes, a regular bicycle would be awkward due to its size on such a commute. However, if you learned to use a unicycle it might be totally doable.
She keeps arguing that it's completely unnecessary to cycle from the bedroom to my desk in the spare room.
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
I'm about to bite the bullet and start biking to work on the 3 days a week that I currently go to the office. I'm scared of the crazy traffic of my Italian city (that has notoriously crazy traffic) but it's a short commute - less than a mile- and I guess I'll just have to be careful. I do see quite a few bikes now. My fear is people opening car doors on the narrow streets without looking, crazy scooter drivers and people going through red lights. Definitely wearing a helmet.
Some logistical issues - my work is on the formal end of business casual. I usually wear skirts or dresses, do my hair and wear a minimal amount of makeup (kind of expected for professional women unfortunately) but I'm not sure how practical this is going to be on a bike. Also - I guess I'll need to wear sneakers and change into work shoes once I get to work? Do the rest of you cycle to work in business attire? The commute involves some hills so I may get sweaty. There are no showers at work. Maybe I should cycle in casual clothes and change my whole outfit and apply makeup once I'm at work in the bathroom?
Hi Hula,
I had a similar bike commute, I started out packing my clothes and changing at work - partly because I went fast and I sweated. But as I got in better shape, and learned to go a bit slower I switched to biking 100% in my work clothes and shoes. It actually worked out to be faster overall. I do still have some strategies for poor weather that involve changing at work - like winter boots/rain boots and poncho (and I like to keep a set of spare clothes at work just in case something happens on the way).
And I would second the comment that it's easier to bike in heels than it is to walk - but you feet can get dirty if it's not dry - ALSO FENDERS are a must if you're going to bike in work clothes and it's wet on the ground...
I need a new tail light. I would prefer something that could mount horizontally on the back of my Moose cargo rack. I am very short a light affixed to my seat post would be obscured by all the books and snacks in my Wald baskets.
I also prefer that it run on batteries because my front light and my Monkey wheel lights both have to be USB charged and I don't want to be a slave to plugging and unplugging lights! Any suggestions?
Mine will run on rechargeable batteries after the batteries soon. I've had it for over a year and I'm still running on the alkaline batteries that came with it.I need a new tail light. I would prefer something that could mount horizontally on the back of my Moose cargo rack. I am very short a light affixed to my seat post would be obscured by all the books and snacks in my Wald baskets.
I also prefer that it run on batteries because my front light and my Monkey wheel lights both have to be USB charged and I don't want to be a slave to plugging and unplugging lights! Any suggestions?
Planet Bike Superflash Turbo.
It's pretty bright, good flash pattern, and runs forever on two (hopefully rechargeable) AAA batteries.
It's time to put the studs on! And the pogies... since I'm not on a commuter timeline anymore I'm going to attempt to do my wheels myself this year... and that's no small feat as my main commuter bike has dynamo hub, internal gears and a fully enclosed chain guard... no quick release on this baby!I don't have a clue what pogles are. I have had one morning commute where it felt like I need to get out arm/leg warmers soon.
I'll let you know how it goes, and if I can figure out where all the screws and wires go back in...
Mine will run on rechargeable batteries after the batteries soon. I've had it for over a year and I'm still running on the alkaline batteries that came with it.I need a new tail light. I would prefer something that could mount horizontally on the back of my Moose cargo rack. I am very short a light affixed to my seat post would be obscured by all the books and snacks in my Wald baskets.
I also prefer that it run on batteries because my front light and my Monkey wheel lights both have to be USB charged and I don't want to be a slave to plugging and unplugging lights! Any suggestions?
Planet Bike Superflash Turbo.
It's pretty bright, good flash pattern, and runs forever on two (hopefully rechargeable) AAA batteries.
I'm not familar with the rack you want to mount it to. The SuperFlash has a clip that would work well on a belt and comes with a seatpost mount. I currently clip mine to the back of my helmet and use a rechargable light on my Blackburn Ultimate Commute Rack 2, but the SuperFlash has worked well on my rack in the past.
Mine will run on rechargeable batteries after the batteries soon. I've had it for over a year and I'm still running on the alkaline batteries that came with it.I need a new tail light. I would prefer something that could mount horizontally on the back of my Moose cargo rack. I am very short a light affixed to my seat post would be obscured by all the books and snacks in my Wald baskets.
I also prefer that it run on batteries because my front light and my Monkey wheel lights both have to be USB charged and I don't want to be a slave to plugging and unplugging lights! Any suggestions?
Planet Bike Superflash Turbo.
It's pretty bright, good flash pattern, and runs forever on two (hopefully rechargeable) AAA batteries.
I'm not familar with the rack you want to mount it to. The SuperFlash has a clip that would work well on a belt and comes with a seatpost mount. I currently clip mine to the back of my helmet and use a rechargable light on my Blackburn Ultimate Commute Rack 2, but the SuperFlash has worked well on my rack in the past.
They make a rack mount for the Superflash so I just bought that and fingers crossed it will mount OK. Moose rack is a Burley rack that is special for towing a trailalong bike called the Piccolo. I had to get that kind because I can't attach anything to my seat post! We don't use the Piccolo anymore but my younger kid isn't ready to get rid of it... and I will probably keep the rack anyway because it's already on there and installed.
I hope it will FIT rechargeable batteries. IME they are infinitesimally larger than regular batteries. In my pencil sharpener, I was able to get two of the four to be rechargeable before they wouldn't fit, for instance.
pogies are another word for BarMitts. They are attached to the handlebars and allow you to slide your (mitted/gloved) hand in and access the brakes and handlebars. They are essential for me to continue biking in -10C and colder :) - so not in California.OK, I've heard of bar mitts before.
I hope it will FIT rechargeable batteries. IME they are infinitesimally larger than regular batteries. In my pencil sharpener, I was able to get two of the four to be rechargeable before they wouldn't fit, for instance.I've experienced this problem where the battery slides into the holder from the end. I can usually get the batteries in, but sometimes have a bit of difficulty getting them out. I think I've experienced this more with AA batteries than AAA.
Lube questions are very personal.
:D
That said, I pick lube based on riding conditions. If you're riding in the desert or very dry/dusty conditions, use dry lube. The idea is that dry lube will attract less dust and debris and keep your drivetrain cleaner. Cleaner means less wear.
It's never that dry around here, so I go between a light wet lube for spring/summer/fall riding (I use prolink progold, but there are plenty of others that are just as good) and a heavy wet lube for winter riding through salt, snow, and slush (white lighting wet ride - but again, there are others out there).
Spring/summer/fall I'll relube my chain every couple weeks (usually about 400 km) or after every long wet ride. You don't need to go crazy, just wipe the chain off with a rag, put a drop of oil on every link, wait 10 minutes, then wipe off any excess.
Winter bike gets it's chain cleaned and then new lube after every salty ride, otherwise the chain will rust and the links will stick.
Anyone have any advice on changing disc brake fluid and bleeding the line? I think I'm more hesitant to jump in on this because the stakes of messing up your brakes are higher. What's actually going on with my brakes is there is a slow leak of fluid around one brake lever. From what I read online of leaks in this area, if there are no obvious sources (gasket worn down or not sitting flush, or hose loose), there isn't really anything else to "fix", and you're better off just replacing the entire lever. The leak is a very slow leak though, from the last time it was bled to the brake loosing all pressure is about 3 months, so I thought maybe I could just top off with fluid every few months. My other brake is working fine. I really don't want to take the bike into the shop for a $40 brake bleed if I can just top it off myself.
Nice job!
Nice job!
@erutio
Agreed!
I find the first time to be the biggest mental hurdle. Now it'll be easier and easier, even if you only notice a slight improvement each time (I'm looking at you, Gear Indexing).
I have a 7 mile commute each way, but ride an e-bike. That, and the fact I ride in (or did pre-COVID) the early morning when temperatures are generally quite cool where I live, allows me to wear my work clothes on the bike. If I have to bike in later and/or it's hot and sunny out, I carry my work clothes and change once I arrive. That's quite rare but has happened recently.
For the commute home, when it's often warm/hot and sunny, I wear athletic clothing, turn down the electric boost, and get my sweat on.
I wanted to join this thread and do my bit for the environment, but I'm really struggling to convince my fiance on this one.
She keeps arguing that it's completely unnecessary to cycle from the bedroom to my desk in the spare room.
I lube my chain whenever I start to hear it. I don't know if that's a good measure or not, but I rarely have to ride in non-perfect weather so it's not generally urgent.
I likely need to replace my rim brakes, so I'll be looking up youtube videos for that soon.
For curiosity's sake, do you let your read light blink or is it flashing continuously? I always put it it in the flash continuously mode (probably due to 'I always did it this way'; no particular logical reason), but lately I see many people with blinking rear lights. Are blinking lights more visible?
For curiosity's sake, do you let your read light blink or is it flashing continuously? I always put it it in the flash continuously mode (probably due to 'I always did it this way'; no particular logical reason), but lately I see many people with blinking rear lights. Are blinking lights more visible?
The studies that I've read about bike lights are illuminating on the matter. :P
Basically, the human brain is more attracted to blinking patterns (good, you want people to see you on your bike!). The downside is that a blinking light is harder for the human brain to process distance information from. The human brain best processes distance if there is a pair of two solid lights more than a foot apart from one another (the widening distance between the two points is what the human brain uses to gauge distance).
My take on things is that if you're cycling in a city with lots of street lights or during the day you're safest with your rear light blinking (cars can gage distance because they'll see your outline - but only if they are paying enough attention to see you to begin with. Blinking helps with that). If you're cycling on dark roads or a quiet town where there are long stretches without much light you're probably best off to use two solid lights.
Near as I could figure, a single non blinking rear light is always the worst to use.
For curiosity's sake, do you let your read light blink or is it flashing continuously? I always put it it in the flash continuously mode (probably due to 'I always did it this way'; no particular logical reason), but lately I see many people with blinking rear lights. Are blinking lights more visible?
The studies that I've read about bike lights are illuminating on the matter. :P
Basically, the human brain is more attracted to blinking patterns (good, you want people to see you on your bike!). The downside is that a blinking light is harder for the human brain to process distance information from. The human brain best processes distance if there is a pair of two solid lights more than a foot apart from one another (the widening distance between the two points is what the human brain uses to gauge distance).
My take on things is that if you're cycling in a city with lots of street lights or during the day you're safest with your rear light blinking (cars can gage distance because they'll see your outline - but only if they are paying enough attention to see you to begin with. Blinking helps with that). If you're cycling on dark roads or a quiet town where there are long stretches without much light you're probably best off to use two solid lights.
Near as I could figure, a single non blinking rear light is always the worst to use.
For curiosity's sake, do you let your read light blink or is it flashing continuously? I always put it it in the flash continuously mode (probably due to 'I always did it this way'; no particular logical reason), but lately I see many people with blinking rear lights. Are blinking lights more visible?
The studies that I've read about bike lights are illuminating on the matter. :P
Basically, the human brain is more attracted to blinking patterns (good, you want people to see you on your bike!). The downside is that a blinking light is harder for the human brain to process distance information from. The human brain best processes distance if there is a pair of two solid lights more than a foot apart from one another (the widening distance between the two points is what the human brain uses to gauge distance).
My take on things is that if you're cycling in a city with lots of street lights or during the day you're safest with your rear light blinking (cars can gage distance because they'll see your outline - but only if they are paying enough attention to see you to begin with. Blinking helps with that). If you're cycling on dark roads or a quiet town where there are long stretches without much light you're probably best off to use two solid lights.
Near as I could figure, a single non blinking rear light is always the worst to use.
I have seen basically the same info. And anecdotally, on their own, very bright blinky lights can be jarring for me (as a driver) when it is dark at night. I feel safest when I have one steady front light, one steady rear light, and one slow pulsing (not blinky) rear light. At night I also wear a reflector, and my bike has reflective 3m tape on it.
For curiosity's sake, do you let your read light blink or is it flashing continuously? I always put it it in the flash continuously mode (probably due to 'I always did it this way'; no particular logical reason), but lately I see many people with blinking rear lights. Are blinking lights more visible?
The studies that I've read about bike lights are illuminating on the matter. :P
Basically, the human brain is more attracted to blinking patterns (good, you want people to see you on your bike!). The downside is that a blinking light is harder for the human brain to process distance information from. The human brain best processes distance if there is a pair of two solid lights more than a foot apart from one another (the widening distance between the two points is what the human brain uses to gauge distance).
My take on things is that if you're cycling in a city with lots of street lights or during the day you're safest with your rear light blinking (cars can gage distance because they'll see your outline - but only if they are paying enough attention to see you to begin with. Blinking helps with that). If you're cycling on dark roads or a quiet town where there are long stretches without much light you're probably best off to use two solid lights.
Near as I could figure, a single non blinking rear light is always the worst to use.
I have seen basically the same info. And anecdotally, on their own, very bright blinky lights can be jarring for me (as a driver) when it is dark at night. I feel safest when I have one steady front light, one steady rear light, and one slow pulsing (not blinky) rear light. At night I also wear a reflector, and my bike has reflective 3m tape on it.
+1
I really like the example of strobe lights growing up. When you and your friends are in a dark room with a strobe light, it's pretty trippy to try to follow your friends' movements. This is the same effect when we ride with only strobe lights at night.
Also, the descriptors "Be Seen" lights and "To See" lights is handy way to remember the differences (daytime vs nighttime): flashing during the day, solid after dusk.
*Also a plug for riding in primary position (not edge riding): reflective items are very dependent on the observation angle and reflective angle. When we're on the edge, the reflective items don't make us as visible as we think they do.
Riding in front of the vehicle is the best visibility location.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/reflectors.html
Tiny addendum to this - a strobing rear light is bad to use at night if you're riding in perfect darkness. If the vehicles behind you have headlights that are on, this doesn't really apply as soon as you get in the range of their headlights (because the headlights will significantly overpower the tiny flashing bike light). If you're riding on city streets lit by streetlights, or in a busy/bright downtown core this concern about flashing does not apply and the strobing light makes you significantly more visible.Good add, the referenced articles go into that. I definitely go with one flashing and one solid.
The cargo rack mount I bought for the Superflash did not make sense with the rack I have. Couldn't figure it out. Fortunately, it only took me a minute to realize that I don't have to mount it at all because clips very nicely onto my Wald basket!
I was thinking the problem with trying to provide solid lights that help with gauging distance is that it is usually quite difficult to get enough width on a bike. However, the distance between lights could be vertical. I currently ride with my SuperFlash Turbo clipped to the back of my helmet and another flashing red light on my rack. On the front I have a similar flashing white light and a Blaze 150 that I use when it is dark. I'll have to consider switching the red lights to solid if I'm ever riding where it is truly dark (probably would need a better headlight too).
Throw a tarp over it and securely lock it. The tarp helps hide the bike from thieves and keep weather off it.
We are not heading back to the office yet but I 'm back on the bike and slowly getting my riding legs/butt back in anticipation of the future commute. Starting slow and on the mostly flat to begin with.
It's about an 11km round trip so not long at all but a whole lot of hills in heavyish traffic that I try get through asap. When I am in condition, I barely notice it. After an 8 month break, going in a few weeks ago wrecked my glutes for a fortnight!We are not heading back to the office yet but I 'm back on the bike and slowly getting my riding legs/butt back in anticipation of the future commute. Starting slow and on the mostly flat to begin with.
Good idea! How long is your commute gonna be?
It's about an 11km round trip so not long at all but a whole lot of hills in heavyish traffic that I try get through asap. When I am in condition, I barely notice it. After an 8 month break, going in a few weeks ago wrecked my glutes for a fortnight!We are not heading back to the office yet but I 'm back on the bike and slowly getting my riding legs/butt back in anticipation of the future commute. Starting slow and on the mostly flat to begin with.
Good idea! How long is your commute gonna be?
This post is a kick in my own pants. Daylight savings time means it's still sunny at 5:00 and now is a perfect time to get back in the biking habit.I agree, for seasonal cyclists it is a great time to get back into it in many areas.
Just sold my car, so there's no choice for me either way. Gradually buffing up my portfolio of biking clothing to match whatever conditions I might face, especially as I leave SoCal for the PNW.
Just sold my car, so there's no choice for me either way. Gradually buffing up my portfolio of biking clothing to match whatever conditions I might face, especially as I leave SoCal for the PNW.That’s awesome! We still have one car for our six person family, but I dream of ditching it someday when the kids get a bit older. It’s so lovely to ride.
So, with that is mind, has anyone tried the swytch kit? I just saw an advertisement for it on youtube and it kept me from clicking "skip ad" as fast as I normally do.No experience with eBikes yet, but I've thought about retrofitting a bike with something like that. Converting DW's bike to an eBike would make riding together more enjoyable - her maximum sustainable speed is pretty close to my minimum comfortable speed.
https://www.swytchbike.com/ (https://www.swytchbike.com/)
I haven't been cycling to work lately . . . bc work from home.
But, I imagine things will be going back to some sort of normal office schedule this summer or fall. There are a couple of challenging hills on my commute that are probably going to give me a heart attack someday.
So, with that is mind, has anyone tried the swytch kit? I just saw an advertisement for it on youtube and it kept me from clicking "skip ad" as fast as I normally do.
https://www.swytchbike.com/ (https://www.swytchbike.com/)
I leave pants at work for a week and only bring a new shirt daily. I do get to wear jeans at work though. Most people here don't shower at work after biking, then? I don't but have gotten some weird looks about it.
Okay, folks, I'm getting serious about this whole bike commute thing. Serious enough to think about giving up my parking pass for work . . . and it will be hard to get that permit back in the current location.
I'm not going to pull the trigger on giving up the parking spot quite yet. I feel like I should give it a year and see how I do in the winter first.
We don't have harsh winters, but cycling in heavy rain just seems like it would be a drag, and part of the commute is on an off road trail with steep hills that get muddy. I remember riding my bike to school in 3rd grade just holding an umbrella and it was fun, though. You all inspire me that I can do it even sans umbrella (cause I won't be able to get up the biggest hills holding an umbrella.)
Okay, folks, I'm getting serious about this whole bike commute thing. Serious enough to think about giving up my parking pass for work . . . and it will be hard to get that permit back in the current location.
I'm not going to pull the trigger on giving up the parking spot quite yet. I feel like I should give it a year and see how I do in the winter first.
We don't have harsh winters, but cycling in heavy rain just seems like it would be a drag, and part of the commute is on an off road trail with steep hills that get muddy. I remember riding my bike to school in 3rd grade just holding an umbrella and it was fun, though. You all inspire me that I can do it even sans umbrella (cause I won't be able to get up the biggest hills holding an umbrella.)
Put fenders on your bike, and rain becomes a mild nuisance rather than a giant PITA. The fenders keep mud and grime off your face, butt, and most importantly your drivetrain. Once you're not eating dirt all the time in the rain, all you've got to do is keep yourself warm enough (usually just a matter of figuring out the right layers to wear).If your bike has rim brakes, the wet can have significant impact on brake traction - disk brakes should be less affected. Of course road traction reduction is experienced by all vehicles in the rain; so traffic patterns that might not be overly worrisome in dry weather may also need to be considered.
I've ridden in many heavy storms/thunderstorms. Lighting isn't anything to be seriously concerned about, but be aware of reduced traction and increased braking distances. You also want to keep an eye on winds - anything over 50 km/h steady, or 70 km/h gusts and it becomes more challenging to ride.
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?Freeways can be a big problem. I once lived near a freeway I had to cross by bike daily where the shortest route was a busy road like you describe. That road did have sidewalks though. Best time to cross was during rush hour because traffic was bad enough that cars were generally going slower than bikes at that time.
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Can you post a Google street view for us to analyze?
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Can you post a Google street view for us to analyze?
Here is a google map link showing the direction I'm trying to go, if it doesn't work let me know. I'll probably just delete in a couple days.
https://goo.gl/maps/YJaYqCfbsmQ4YYve7
I'm definitely willing to adjust the route but want to keep it under 10 miles.
Paging the bike commuting experts: What would you do in this situation?
One particular intersection is holding me up to start bike commuting, going to try to explain it to the best of my ability.
So the freeway is basically going perpendicular (E/W) to the roads I need to take south to work. The problem is, every road that goes under the big main freeway where the on and off ramps are, has no crosswalks, bike lane, or any sort of shoulder and I'm not sure how you bike through these. I have looked at multiple routes that go under the freeway further E & W and each road has the same problem. (No crosswalks or walking paths, its crazy!)
I feel really wary of biking past the on big on ramps, and the speed limits are all 45MPH and up. The only roads that go under the freeway are big 4 lane boulevard type roads, with this no crosswalk/shoulder deal at the on ramps. The sidewalks and crosswalks just stop and don't resume again til about a third of a mile
Hopefully this paints a picture? And if so...... What do you do?? Just go through it? Every now and then I'll see a pedestrian trying to navigate through this and it looks terrifying.
Hoping I can get some tips. I found some good paths for the rest of the drive once I can figure this piece out.
Can you post a Google street view for us to analyze?
Here is a google map link showing the direction I'm trying to go, if it doesn't work let me know. I'll probably just delete in a couple days.
https://goo.gl/maps/YJaYqCfbsmQ4YYve7
I'm definitely willing to adjust the route but want to keep it under 10 miles.
Here is a google map link showing the direction I'm trying to go, if it doesn't work let me know. I'll probably just delete in a couple days.Simply asking Google Maps for biking directions suggest going 2.5 miles east to cross the freeway on Plaza Trail avoiding interaction with freeway ramps (even has a bike lane for the actual freeway crossing). This makes the trip about 8.5 miles.
https://goo.gl/maps/YJaYqCfbsmQ4YYve7
I'm definitely willing to adjust the route but want to keep it under 10 miles.
Here is a google map link showing the direction I'm trying to go, if it doesn't work let me know. I'll probably just delete in a couple days.Simply asking Google Maps for biking directions suggest going 2.5 miles east to cross the freeway on Plaza Trail avoiding interaction with freeway ramps (even has a bike lane for the actual freeway crossing). This makes the trip about 8.5 miles.
https://goo.gl/maps/YJaYqCfbsmQ4YYve7
I'm definitely willing to adjust the route but want to keep it under 10 miles.
Looks like you'd have the choice of taking a lane or riding a sidewalk along Virginia Beach Blvd for that 2.5 miles east, then head south on mostly residential roads. You might also use Bonney Rd for this E/W travel depending on traffic patterns. An old rail line just south of Central Park looks like a good candidate for a rails to trails type project for E/W access aligned with Southern Blvd; but that's not an option at present.
I continue to fantasize about getting an ebike. I am soooo slow. It takes me every bit of 20 minutes to get to work, and it's less than 4 miles, and every day going up the hill I think I am going to die. I would love to put a few extra minutes back in my day. I'm really short, though--I have a "petite" frame that I think is 16 inches? Is that a tiny frame? It is the tiniest size I could find for an adult-size bike, and before that I had a 24 inch kid's bike. And I dread the process of finding one that would fit.
Also, 4 miles in 20 minutes doesn't seem exceptionally slow. That's about 12mph.
I continue to fantasize about getting an ebike. I am soooo slow. It takes me every bit of 20 minutes to get to work, and it's less than 4 miles, and every day going up the hill I think I am going to die. I would love to put a few extra minutes back in my day. I'm really short, though--I have a "petite" frame that I think is 16 inches? Is that a tiny frame? It is the tiniest size I could find for an adult-size bike, and before that I had a 24 inch kid's bike. And I dread the process of finding one that would fit.
Where did you buy the bike from? If it was from a big box store, you may have acquired a bicycle shaped object rather than a bicycle. These BSOs are often extremely heavy and outfitted with poor quality components and knobby tires - all of this will work together to slow you down. FWIW, my wife is a small woman (5'3") and she was comfortable with a Giant Escape in xs size.
If you do have a real bike, it's possible that you've got the saddle adjusted too low. Try getting someone to hold the bike upright (or lean against a wall or something while you do this) and sticking your heels on the pedals. Then pedal backwards. If your saddle is properly adjusted your heels should just barely be contacting the pedals when they're furthest from your body. If you can easily do the heel/backpedal thing, then your saddle is too low and you'll need to work much harder than normal to get anywhere. Most people adjust bike saddles too low by default because a properly adjusted saddle usually forces a rider to dismount when stopping (you definitely can't stay seated and put both feet flat on the ground on both sides).
There are other things that could be causing your troubles, but the two above are the most common things to check first.
Open to more suggestions but I think I'm just out of shape and naturally slow!
Open to more suggestions but I think I'm just out of shape and naturally slow!
Barbell squats?
:P
It sounds like you should have the horsepower to go quickly on the bike, your bike isn't a BSO, and you're roughly seated correctly. The list of things it can be caused by is rapidly shortening. Any chance there's a mechanical issue?
Maybe one of your brakes is rubbing? Try lifting the bike and make sure that both the front and rear wheel spin freely.
Maybe you're riding in an area with a bunch of super athletes? My town is the home of many of the national triathlon and cycling training teams. Plus, there are a ton of amateur athletes. Many of them are decades younger than I am. I'm not put out at all when people like this pass me.
It's totally OK to be slow. You're dong better than many, many people just to be out there. Also, I always feel like I'm going to die for the first 10 min of every workout. I suck at warming up slowly and I have exercise induced asthma, so it takes that long for my body to remind my brain to slow down.
How often should I replace my chain?
(I got a warning about this being an old thread but dangit it's my thread and I can revive it if I want to.)
My lowest gear is not low enough for that big hill. It is good for smaller hills. They checked the gears at the bike shop and I do inflate my tires.
I already do squat jumps, sometimes with weights!
All this troubleshooting, I keep circling back to I must just be naturally slow. But I am still open to ideas...
My lowest gear is not low enough for that big hill. It is good for smaller hills. They checked the gears at the bike shop and I do inflate my tires.
I already do squat jumps, sometimes with weights!
All this troubleshooting, I keep circling back to I must just be naturally slow. But I am still open to ideas...
Can you get your gears changed (add lower gears) to be able to go up the big hill? I have 2 bikes- one for commuting that can only go up little hills (made more for flat riding) and another that has lower gears- I go slow but can spin (granny) it up high hills (for me).
I'm short and slow too.
Don't spend your time worrying about who is passing you, just focus on enjoying the sites, being outside cycling, try to keep your upper body relaxed (don't clench handlebars) to keep taking in those deep breaths to keep pedaling and sometimes standing up to pedal is good too.
Also, are you comfortable shifting gears? Maybe your riding in too high of a gear?
Or consider reducing your crank length? My lower geared bike also has 150mm cranks too- supposed to make it easier to go up hills and easier on short legs (making a smaller circle). My commuter is 170mm and each time I switch, I can tell the difference and takes a few seconds to adjust.
Another option to consider- ain't no shame in pushing the bike uphill. I recently acquired a bike dedicated to winter commuting which due to it's belt drive and internally geared hub has gearing much higher than any of my other bikes. There are a couple of hills on my commute that the winter commuter cannot climb with me pedaling. However, when I pushed the bike uphill on foot, I found I was faster doing that than pedaling any of my geared bikes up those same hills. (I track my commutes in strava and have the data to back this up).
It's something I learned before in mountain bike racing- sometimes it's just faster to get off the bike and run it.
@Askel, I tried this and it's a game-changer! It feels a lot safer to be out of the traffic on the sidewalk and I don't think it takes much, if any, extra time. Thanks for the suggestion!
Seeking mustachian input... Should I upgrade my bike?Since 2020, I've been riding a Trek FX-3 Disc that I like a lot. I put front and rear racks and a handle bar bag on it. So, it can carry up to 4 panniers, which I only usually need when I ride 10 miles to Wegman's and want to get a bunch of groceries and beer. Otherwise, I usually only use one or two of the rear panniers.
I currently ride a 2016 Trek FX 7.0: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9 (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9).
It's gotten finicky about shifting and probably needs new brake pads, if not additional tune-up on the brakes. It's functional but has become annoying to ride. From various sources of unexpected/gift money, I have about $650 to put toward a bike.
Considerations:
- I am moving to Colorado this summer and will therefore be learning to bike in Weather, which hasn't been invented in SoCal.
- If I'm going to get something new, I'd like it to be a meaningful upgrade; springing for disc brakes seems like the best bet. I'm interested in their improved performance in wet conditions.
- I daydreamed of something lighter than my current 28 pounds, but realistically: I like the hybrid style, they don't get much lighter than 25 pounds, and each pound off costs a lot more. I add several pounds with a commuter bag anyway. Still, our bike storage is on our upstairs balcony, so I do lug the thing up and down stairs.
I have my eye on a couple on craigslist and I'd love some third-party thoughts about my several options.
- Invest in a good tune-up on the bike I have. I don't HAVE to spend all $650. Maybe get better at bike maintenance in the future.
- Trek FX 2 Disc, $600: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html)
This bike is ~2 pounds lighter than mine and has hydraulic disc brakes.- 2017 REI CTY 1.1, $275: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html)
Comparable to my bike in most ways + mechanical disc brakes.
This thread has been such a help in learning more about biking! Thanks for any thoughts!
Seeking mustachian input... Should I upgrade my bike?
I currently ride a 2016 Trek FX 7.0: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9 (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9).
It's gotten finicky about shifting and probably needs new brake pads, if not additional tune-up on the brakes. It's functional but has become annoying to ride. From various sources of unexpected/gift money, I have about $650 to put toward a bike.
Considerations:
- I am moving to Colorado this summer and will therefore be learning to bike in Weather, which hasn't been invented in SoCal.
- If I'm going to get something new, I'd like it to be a meaningful upgrade; springing for disc brakes seems like the best bet. I'm interested in their improved performance in wet conditions.
- I daydreamed of something lighter than my current 28 pounds, but realistically: I like the hybrid style, they don't get much lighter than 25 pounds, and each pound off costs a lot more. I add several pounds with a commuter bag anyway. Still, our bike storage is on our upstairs balcony, so I do lug the thing up and down stairs.
I have my eye on a couple on craigslist and I'd love some third-party thoughts about my several options.
- Invest in a good tune-up on the bike I have. I don't HAVE to spend all $650. Maybe get better at bike maintenance in the future.
- Trek FX 2 Disc, $600: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html)
This bike is ~2 pounds lighter than mine and has hydraulic disc brakes.- 2017 REI CTY 1.1, $275: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html)
Comparable to my bike in most ways + mechanical disc brakes.
This thread has been such a help in learning more about biking! Thanks for any thoughts!
Seeking mustachian input... Should I upgrade my bike?
Steve's right. If you like your current bike and it fits you, you're better off just asking your local bike shop to adjust the brakes, shifters, etc. It won't cost anywhere near $600.Seeking mustachian input... Should I upgrade my bike?
I currently ride a 2016 Trek FX 7.0: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9 (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9).
It's gotten finicky about shifting and probably needs new brake pads, if not additional tune-up on the brakes. It's functional but has become annoying to ride. From various sources of unexpected/gift money, I have about $650 to put toward a bike.
Considerations:
- I am moving to Colorado this summer and will therefore be learning to bike in Weather, which hasn't been invented in SoCal.
- If I'm going to get something new, I'd like it to be a meaningful upgrade; springing for disc brakes seems like the best bet. I'm interested in their improved performance in wet conditions.
- I daydreamed of something lighter than my current 28 pounds, but realistically: I like the hybrid style, they don't get much lighter than 25 pounds, and each pound off costs a lot more. I add several pounds with a commuter bag anyway. Still, our bike storage is on our upstairs balcony, so I do lug the thing up and down stairs.
I have my eye on a couple on craigslist and I'd love some third-party thoughts about my several options.
- Invest in a good tune-up on the bike I have. I don't HAVE to spend all $650. Maybe get better at bike maintenance in the future.
- Trek FX 2 Disc, $600: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html)
This bike is ~2 pounds lighter than mine and has hydraulic disc brakes.- 2017 REI CTY 1.1, $275: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html)
Comparable to my bike in most ways + mechanical disc brakes.
This thread has been such a help in learning more about biking! Thanks for any thoughts!
NO!
All bikes require maintenance with use. Adjusting indexing on shifters is something that should be done once or twice a year, and brake pads need to be replaced as they wear. Occasionally you'll need to replace cables and a chain and cassette. These are not difficult tasks to learn, but if you don't want to do this . . . take your bike down to your local bike shop and get everything fixed.
New brake pads - maybe 10 to 20$ and 10 minutes time
Indexing shifters - maybe 5 minutes time
Replacing cassette - 40 to 60$ and 20-30 minutes of time
Replacing chain - 20 to 40$ and about 5 minutes
If the bike fits you and you like it, then do basic maintenance . . . and you should be able to ride it for a couple decades at least.
Disc brakes definitely brake better in wet conditions, but regular allow rim brakes that are properly adjusted are perfectly safe in rain too. I've ridden thousands of miles in the wet (including snow, slush, hail, etc.) and never owned a disc brake bike.
Seeking mustachian input... Should I upgrade my bike?
I currently ride a 2016 Trek FX 7.0: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9 (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-0-fx/p/16211/?avad=220733_e2791cbf9).
It's gotten finicky about shifting and probably needs new brake pads, if not additional tune-up on the brakes. It's functional but has become annoying to ride. From various sources of unexpected/gift money, I have about $650 to put toward a bike.
Considerations:
- I am moving to Colorado this summer and will therefore be learning to bike in Weather, which hasn't been invented in SoCal.
- If I'm going to get something new, I'd like it to be a meaningful upgrade; springing for disc brakes seems like the best bet. I'm interested in their improved performance in wet conditions.
- I daydreamed of something lighter than my current 28 pounds, but realistically: I like the hybrid style, they don't get much lighter than 25 pounds, and each pound off costs a lot more. I add several pounds with a commuter bag anyway. Still, our bike storage is on our upstairs balcony, so I do lug the thing up and down stairs.
I have my eye on a couple on craigslist and I'd love some third-party thoughts about my several options.
- Invest in a good tune-up on the bike I have. I don't HAVE to spend all $650. Maybe get better at bike maintenance in the future.
- Trek FX 2 Disc, $600: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-trek-fx-disc-dnister-matte/7454475192.html)
This bike is ~2 pounds lighter than mine and has hydraulic disc brakes.- 2017 REI CTY 1.1, $275: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/san-diego-rei-coop-cty-11-commuter-bike/7452605857.html)
Comparable to my bike in most ways + mechanical disc brakes.
This thread has been such a help in learning more about biking! Thanks for any thoughts!
I really want to learn bike maintenance in the future, but before I move to Colorado I need to finish my PhD thesis. No new hobbies or interests allowed for the next few months. :)
I really want to learn bike maintenance in the future, but before I move to Colorado I need to finish my PhD thesis. No new hobbies or interests allowed for the next few months. :)
I have no excuses not to learn my own bike maintenance except I just don’t wanna. I never had a mustachian mêmbership card, so no need for me to turn it in at this blasphemy.I really want to learn bike maintenance in the future, but before I move to Colorado I need to finish my PhD thesis. No new hobbies or interests allowed for the next few months. :)
Oh, Tass, I feel you. Same boat. There are some points in life when it's acceptable to throw money at a problem- the home stretch of the PhD qualifies imo. It's temporary. Take it to a shop and they'll tune it up nicely, and you support the local bike shop industry to boot.
Good memory. I indeed bike while pregnant, but I didn’t have found ligament pain, so I can’t offer a thing useful to you. I have an ebike which certainly made biking more feasible while pregnant. I could keep cranking up the assist level as I got bigger.
I hope you find a solution.
You are hilarious.Good memory. I indeed bike while pregnant, but I didn’t have found ligament pain, so I can’t offer a thing useful to you. I have an ebike which certainly made biking more feasible while pregnant. I could keep cranking up the assist level as I got bigger.
I hope you find a solution.
LOL, and you were an "elderly multigravida" like me! In the absence of an ebike I have just resorted to pushing my bike up the steepest hill and questioning all my life choices on the other hills.
I've been bike commuting for 6 weeks now and I'm on the second week of all four days biking in. It's about 8 miles one way and surprisingly protected for being in a southern US city. I have a 7 speed step through city bike that I love. I can't go fast, average about 10 mph but it's a very peaceful ride. The first three miles are through a chill quiet neighborhood, then a college campus, a city park, another quiet neighborhood street and then two miles of curbed off bike lanes.
Reading through this thread I have crazy respect for all y'all winter bikers. I'm dealing with 100+ degree summer rides but at least drinking water, wipes for the morning, and so many change of clothes takes care of most of the problems.
Last time I biked (about 15 miles), one of my ring fingers went numb, and didn't return to full feeling for a few days. I have an old wrist injury from typing that flares up occasionally, so I figured it was related to that.Google carpal tunnel syndrome maybe?
This time (two weeks later), I wore my padded gloves, stayed off gravel paths, and tried to keep my wrists straighter and put less weight on my hands. It definitely helped, but I still had a little bit of numbness, this time in both ring fingers, although it subsided much more quickly. Has anyone else successfully addressed this problem?
Last time I biked (about 15 miles), one of my ring fingers went numb, and didn't return to full feeling for a few days. I have an old wrist injury from typing that flares up occasionally, so I figured it was related to that.
This time (two weeks later), I wore my padded gloves, stayed off gravel paths, and tried to keep my wrists straighter and put less weight on my hands. It definitely helped, but I still had a little bit of numbness, this time in both ring fingers, although it subsided much more quickly. Has anyone else successfully addressed this problem?
Google carpal tunnel syndrome maybe?
I have experienced numbness with flat bars with crappy grips on long distance rides.
Any tips on using core/torso muscles instead of letting weight fall into my hands, or is that just something I'll have to be really conscious of until it becomes habit?