Selling Tradelines / Piggybacking Part II: $1000+/hr, 20-40k/yr. Side Gig

[harrydogyo]

It would be interesting to hear. What are everyone's most profitable cards?

I have a high limit Amex that is my most profitable by far...easy to add and up to 99 per year.   Next would be a high limit 20 year old+ Citi (best payout) and a 16k Barclays (always seems to be filled).  And I have some cards that are duds.  I think the TL companies or their buyers know the ones that post or that make a difference in their client's score improvement.

[Padonak]

Question about barclaycard. I just logged on and saw a new link to "Activate" next to the AUs I already added. When I clicked on the link, it said "To activate your account, please verify your identity. Enter the primary cardmember's information below." and  asked for the last 4 digits of my social and the 3 digit security code on the back of my primary card. I did NOT request AU cards to be issued when I added these AUs.

Question: what does this activation mean? Do I need to enter my details and "activate" in order for these tradelines to be posted?

[beekayworld]

Is the activate under "Activated Cards" on the left? Or under "Authorized Users" on the right?

I just logged on to Barclay's.

On the left, under a silhouette of a card, are three columns: "name on card" "last 4 digits on account" and "activation date". The AU has a "Activate now" under the last column.  I'm not going to click it because I don't want to activate his card.

On the right, under a silhouette of a person with a "+" sign, are rows: "name" "Date authorized" "has a card" and "address."  There's no alert for me to activate and since it already has a "date authorized", I assume he's officially added.

[jeromedawg]

Hey guys quick question regarding transferring of credit limit. One company I'm currently talking to has suggested combining 2-3 of my Chase cards to increase my 'power' - in doing so, it seems like you're also increasing your risk... if the card gets shut down that credit limit will have gotten wiped out no?

What strategy(ies) do you guys employ when doing this? And what would you suggest for someone who's just starting out? I don't want to get too greedy starting out.

[secondcor521]

Hey guys quick question regarding transferring of credit limit. One company I'm currently talking to has suggested combining 2-3 of my Chase cards to increase my 'power' - in doing so, it seems like you're also increasing your risk... if the card gets shut down that credit limit will have gotten wiped out no?

What strategy(ies) do you guys employ when doing this? And what would you suggest for someone who's just starting out? I don't want to get too greedy starting out.

Correct.  And IIRC Chase might also close your checking and savings account and any other accounts you have with them too.  At least that was true recently.

Correct.  Don't get greedy.  Except in the case of a few private sales, I have only worked with the companies ARS has recommended, and I follow all of their recommendations.  Even so I had a couple of cards shut down last year.  So do what they say and understand even so that there is always a risk of getting shut down.

What I haven't done, but you might do with your Chase cards, is look at credit line divided by commission.  If you get 3x the commission for 2x the credit line, then maybe that's worth it.  But if it's 1.5x the commission for 2x the credit line, maybe not.

Also keep in mind, once you get a system set up, the overhead of doing one AU is pretty much the same regardless of whether the card is young or old and has a low or high limit.  That should factor into your strategy.

Some people here are applying for new cards with the relevant issuers in order to start seasoning CLs for use in a couple of years.  I think that's a smart idea if it works with the rest of your situation.

...

To say the same thing a slightly different way a second time for emphasis.  IMHO, if you go with a random TL company out there, you will likely make more money - maybe much more - than going with one of the two recommended by ARS.  But it will - again IMHO - probably result in issues and shutdowns after a much shorter period of time and thus a lower overall income total - with more stress and hassle to boot.

I stipulate that there may be other good companies out there.  I only need one or two, and the ones ARS have recommended have worked out well for me for almost five years.  So the risk/reward/effort ratio just isn't there for me.

[jeromedawg]

Hey guys quick question regarding transferring of credit limit. One company I'm currently talking to has suggested combining 2-3 of my Chase cards to increase my 'power' - in doing so, it seems like you're also increasing your risk... if the card gets shut down that credit limit will have gotten wiped out no?

What strategy(ies) do you guys employ when doing this? And what would you suggest for someone who's just starting out? I don't want to get too greedy starting out.

Correct.  And IIRC Chase might also close your checking and savings account and any other accounts you have with them too.  At least that was true recently.

Correct.  Don't get greedy.  Except in the case of a few private sales, I have only worked with the companies ARS has recommended, and I follow all of their recommendations.  Even so I had a couple of cards shut down last year.  So do what they say and understand even so that there is always a risk of getting shut down.

What I haven't done, but you might do with your Chase cards, is look at credit line divided by commission.  If you get 3x the commission for 2x the credit line, then maybe that's worth it.  But if it's 1.5x the commission for 2x the credit line, maybe not.

Also keep in mind, once you get a system set up, the overhead of doing one AU is pretty much the same regardless of whether the card is young or old and has a low or high limit.  That should factor into your strategy.

Some people here are applying for new cards with the relevant issuers in order to start seasoning CLs for use in a couple of years.  I think that's a smart idea if it works with the rest of your situation.

...

To say the same thing a slightly different way a second time for emphasis.  IMHO, if you go with a random TL company out there, you will likely make more money - maybe much more - than going with one of the two recommended by ARS.  But it will - again IMHO - probably result in issues and shutdowns after a much shorter period of time and thus a lower overall income total - with more stress and hassle to boot.

I stipulate that there may be other good companies out there.  I only need one or two, and the ones ARS have recommended have worked out well for me for almost five years.  So the risk/reward/effort ratio just isn't there for me.

Ah ok thanks. When you say "3x the commission for 2x the credit line" can you clarify? Or give a real world example/numbers for that? I'm not quite understanding how that translates over...

As far as the companies ARS recommended, I reached out to them in the past two months and neither are accepting new partners unfortunately. That said, I'm currently researching a couple but not quite sure how else to "vet" them according to the "ARS Standard" so would be open to suggestions there. If I do end up going with any of these and the two original companies he recommended open back up to accepting partners, is it difficult to 'switch' over to those companies if at that point in time I had been selling tradelines via other brokers? Or is it all pretty seamless? I would think the latter but I don't know enough about all this.

I just opened a Barclay's card for myself and will probably do the same for my wife and allow them to season after getting the initial spend reward. I'm kicking myself for allowing several long-standing CCs go stale and close (at the discretion of the card issuing banks) after not using, not caring because I thought I would have absolutely no use as far as keeping them open. smh :(

[FrugalZony]

Does anyone know if anything changed recently for AU's with Barclays?  I received a card for an AU recently even though I always decline card and noticed that it had a different number than the primary.  I might be mistaken as I have not requested a card in a loooong time but I thought BC issued AU's under the same #.  Thanks for any info.

Just logged on to ask this!
I removed an AU from a Barclays Card a few days ago that I had not requested a card for (never do) and received a card for them in the mail AFTER removing them.
This is totally odd!
I had another add a couple of days ago and am watching my mail like a hawk right now.

Hoping this is just a short term glitch in the system.

[secondcor521]

<<snip>>

Ah ok thanks. When you say "3x the commission for 2x the credit line" can you clarify? Or give a real world example/numbers for that? I'm not quite understanding how that translates over...

As far as the companies ARS recommended, I reached out to them in the past two months and neither are accepting new partners unfortunately. That said, I'm currently researching a couple but not quite sure how else to "vet" them according to the "ARS Standard" so would be open to suggestions there. If I do end up going with any of these and the two original companies he recommended open back up to accepting partners, is it difficult to 'switch' over to those companies if at that point in time I had been selling tradelines via other brokers? Or is it all pretty seamless? I would think the latter but I don't know enough about all this.

I just opened a Barclay's card for myself and will probably do the same for my wife and allow them to season after getting the initial spend reward. I'm kicking myself for allowing several long-standing CCs go stale and close (at the discretion of the card issuing banks) after not using, not caring because I thought I would have absolutely no use as far as keeping them open. smh :(

The TL companies pay more per slot if the card is older and/or has a higher limit.  So for example, a 5 year old Discover card with a $12K limit pays $75 per slot, but the same card with a $24K limit would pay $175 per slot.  Other than getting the higher limit in the first place, which could be easy or hard depending, the work to add/remove a person is the same regardless of the CL.  Any company you might work with should be able to give you their commission schedule and you can see for yourself how this would work with your own cards.

The only way to vet to the ARS standard is to be ARS and do what he does.  I just piggybacked on his work (thanks, @ARS! :) ).  I suppose you could do something similar by researching how the companies work and what the risks are and how they vet their AUs.  I got in early so I didn't face the issue you are.  From my comfy spot I would say to just wait and season cards and keep checking back with the recommended companies if I were in your shoes.  But I don't know honestly if I would wait or if I would go with another company.  Good luck whatever you decide.

Switching companies is just a matter of keeping track of the sales with each company, coordinating slots and cards when you're switching over, communicating with each company through the transition, and making sure to properly report the income from both on your taxes.  I've done something similar twice.  It's not impossible and not hard, but it's extra work.  You also might lose a tad bit of being available to the market on your cards as you're switching over.  Finally, it would depend on how many cards you have and how many slots you want to sell on each card and how active your sales end up being.

Regret is an awful thing.  If you were my kid I'd advise you to work on forgiving yourself, counting your blessings, and moving on with life.  I've been playing a number of different versions of financial gaming for 14 years now, and although the specific version of the games change over time, I imagine they'll be around forever.

[Nutty]

I just opened a Barclay's card for myself and will probably do the same for my wife and allow them to season after getting the initial spend reward. I'm kicking myself for allowing several long-standing CCs go stale and close (at the discretion of the card issuing banks) after not using, not caring because I thought I would have absolutely no use as far as keeping them open. smh :(

You aren't alone.  I closed several well seasoned cards a couple of years ago to reduce my risk.  Now, I'm opening more cards to season for this.  Just starting and this site has changed my opinions on a lot of financial stuff and opened more doors.  Make decisions with the information that you have available knowing that you will learn and grow in the process.  No regrets.

I'm teaching my kids the things that I'm learning now.  Quite different than from what Dad taught me.

[harrydogyo]

I mean the seemingly largest player in the tradeline space didn't make the cut for ARS, and other than some late payments from one of the recommended companies, his due diligence has served many here well.   Every spot you don't sell or year you accumulate on each card will help you in the long run for sure.  It'll be a sad day when I lose my best Barclays and it's coming up soon!

Who you work with to sell TLs is a matter of risk reward.  There are absolutely a lot of players that you want NOTHING to do with that don't have the checks to protect you. Usually this involves CPNs and fraudulent shady dealings.  But even those on the seemingly up and up you need to see how they protect private data, and do their due diligence on who they sell to and their clients. 

From there, the other issue is how protective they are of your cards.  I mean a good TL company never wants you to lose a card but they're making money and many of them will be inclined to push the envelope to get a sale.

They companies I work with have been forthcoming with when I should not do an add ("I wouldn't risk it") and when it won't be an issue (You should have no problem).  This is a function of their volume and the size and tenure of their team.  And who they work with for clients.  Due diligence in the age of Google is not that hard if you put the time in.

TL companies have also gone under in the past.  It's a profitable business for them but they too could be cancelled tomorrow.

The most important thing in all of this is to not sell spots on a card that you can't afford to lose. I've made enough from every card that I've made available that it would have been well worth the effort even if it was cancelled tomorrow. 

[MoneyTree]

Hey guys quick question regarding transferring of credit limit. One company I'm currently talking to has suggested combining 2-3 of my Chase cards to increase my 'power' - in doing so, it seems like you're also increasing your risk... if the card gets shut down that credit limit will have gotten wiped out no?

What strategy(ies) do you guys employ when doing this? And what would you suggest for someone who's just starting out? I don't want to get too greedy starting out.

I'd suggest playing the long game. You can regularly request credit limit increases on each card, while simultaneously letting them age. In a few years time you will have multiple pretty good cards to sell.

The caveat to this is that you mentioned wanting to do this with Chase cards. Chase has been known to use the "nuclear option" when shutting down cards, meaning that they potentially will shut down ALL your chase accounts if they suspect weird activity on one card. So that is a risk you will have to take into mind when deciding what to do.

[BC_Goldman]

I'm happy for the people who are actively getting tradeline sales.

I've had one and that was 2.5 years ago for a whole $100.

I did just request and receive a credit increase on the card so maybe that will help. I'm kicking myself because I had a Barclay card that was closed for non-use that would have been seasoned by now.

[Nutty]

I had an interesting non-post.  BBVA card that I know for sure I added because I've got the card right here.  Sent pictures of that and my account balance and credit karma showing that an amount was on the card.  Call the CC co this morning and they don't have the person in their system as an AU.  So ok.  How'd I get a card with the AUs name on it then?  No matter, I know my mileage varies all over the map, so no worries there.

I'm new and had this happen also.  A call to the company and the card revealed that the AU had removed himself as an AU in violation of the company's agreement.  Got paid for the AU slot, but he got fired from the company.  I had the AU's card and an email saying he was there.

I hope this gets easier.  3 AUs and 2 problems.  Old company is answering a lot of questions for me.

[EliteZags]

anyone have much experience with selling Elan cards, specifically Valley?

wondering how listing multiple Elan cards at once goes if they're from the same provider/bank
I opened one earlier this year through Valley and got $20K limit initially, considering applying for another one (preferably with Valley again to simplify billing) to get 2 of them aging for future sales next year

[harrydogyo]

anyone have much experience with selling Elan cards, specifically Valley?

wondering how listing multiple Elan cards at once goes if they're from the same provider/bank
I opened one earlier this year through Valley and got $20K limit initially, considering applying for another one (preferably with Valley again to simplify billing) to get 2 of them aging for future sales next year

I have two Elan cards with two different providers... different logins. No idea if it helped me get a higher credit line or not as the last one I applied for was a higher CL and with a CU where I have a decent relationship.  All Elan cards are the same for the site and process so it's really just keeping the listings distinct based on CL and the age and making sure you add the AU to the right card when you sell both. 

Not sure if they allow you to move CL around but with some providers that can help as you season one card to move CL to the older card.   Other banks certainly allow that.

[Padonak]

Is the activate under "Activated Cards" on the left? Or under "Authorized Users" on the right?

I just logged on to Barclay's.

On the left, under a silhouette of a card, are three columns: "name on card" "last 4 digits on account" and "activation date". The AU has a "Activate now" under the last column.  I'm not going to click it because I don't want to activate his card.

On the right, under a silhouette of a person with a "+" sign, are rows: "name" "Date authorized" "has a card" and "address."  There's no alert for me to activate and since it already has a "date authorized", I assume he's officially added.

When I log on and click on Services, then Authorized Users, on the left there is a list of current auth users with 3 columns: name on card, last 4 digits, and activation date. The "Activation date" column for the main card (mine) is populated. For a couple of current AUs, the field is empty and for the rest there is a link that says "Activate Now". On the right under the person with a plus sign, I have the same thing you have.

So it looks like I don't need to click on those "activate" links. Can someone else confirm?

[Car Jack]

I don't activate any cards anymore.  The last ones I did activate and use were BoA and they fired me.  Barclays posts fine without activation.

[BikeFanatic]

I do not activate the cards half the time anyways, no difference in posting, I think I only had a few not post out of a hundred or so

[merula]

Additional anecdata: I have never once activated a card, and have never once had a card not post.

[frugalnacho]

I never activate AU cards.  I've had a few not post, but I doubt it was because of this reason as the vast majority post fine.

[chuckster]

CITI is being weird for me about adding AUs... I call in, talk to the agent, and get the person added. Then they put me on "a brief hold" while they get a supervisor to verify my account by sending me a pin to my cell phone. All normal so far.

Then, the supervisor makes me go through the entire AU add process again. Name, social, DOB, agree to the disclosures, etc. Entirely repeat the process. I explain the last agent did this, but they keep asking me to verify the details. Ok...

Then, they get an error in the system that the AU is already on my account, added 10 minutes ago. That tends to confuse them but eventually they push it through.


Did 2 adds today and it happened on both calls.

[harrydogyo]

Have had this a few times... not the sharpest customer service reps.

Also a few times, not recently, there's an email that it didn't go through when it actually did.   Not sure what's broken in their system but mine have still posted and the TL company says not to worry.

CITI is being weird for me about adding AUs... I call in, talk to the agent, and get the person added. Then they put me on "a brief hold" while they get a supervisor to verify my account by sending me a pin to my cell phone. All normal so far.

Then, the supervisor makes me go through the entire AU add process again. Name, social, DOB, agree to the disclosures, etc. Entirely repeat the process. I explain the last agent did this, but they keep asking me to verify the details. Ok...

Then, they get an error in the system that the AU is already on my account, added 10 minutes ago. That tends to confuse them but eventually they push it through.


Did 2 adds today and it happened on both calls.

[MoneyTree]

Don’t get me started on Citi.

Called in to add 2 AUs last week. Painstakingly spelled out everything and had the rep repeat everything back to me to confirm, and then when I login later, both AUs had major misspellings, and none of the changes I make online will stick. They just revert back to the incorrect versions after I save.

Trying to add online first, then calling in the ssn doesn’t work either b/c the reps usually don’t know what to do if the AUs are already in the system.

[Gogore]

While you let your Discover cool its jets, you can still milk the card with low balance forgiveness.  Go into your Amazon account and do a gift card reload for $1.99 on that discover card, once it's at a zero balance.  When the closing date comes, Discover will credit back that $1.99 but you continue to ecru reward points.  You could certainly put that $1.99 on the card in other ways, but it's pretty hard to get the exact number filling gas.  Amazon works especially well because you can reload as little as 50 cents and you get the full value to use for your regular purchases.  I do this with several cards when they're not getting any AUs assigned.

I didn't know low balance forgiveness was a thing.   I have 20+ credit cards and it's always a hassle keeping them going even with auto pay.  My wallet just isn't big enough and I don't shop for myself very much especially in person.     Do you know of any other card issuers that forgive low balances and what the thresholds are?

[secondcor521]

While you let your Discover cool its jets, you can still milk the card with low balance forgiveness.  Go into your Amazon account and do a gift card reload for $1.99 on that discover card, once it's at a zero balance.  When the closing date comes, Discover will credit back that $1.99 but you continue to ecru reward points.  You could certainly put that $1.99 on the card in other ways, but it's pretty hard to get the exact number filling gas.  Amazon works especially well because you can reload as little as 50 cents and you get the full value to use for your regular purchases.  I do this with several cards when they're not getting any AUs assigned.

I didn't know low balance forgiveness was a thing.   I have 20+ credit cards and it's always a hassle keeping them going even with auto pay.  My wallet just isn't big enough and I don't shop for myself very much especially in person.     Do you know of any other card issuers that forgive low balances and what the thresholds are?

https://lmgtfy.app/?q=any+other+card+issuers+that+forgive+low+balances+and+what+the+thresholds+are

[Car Jack]

While you let your Discover cool its jets, you can still milk the card with low balance forgiveness.  Go into your Amazon account and do a gift card reload for $1.99 on that discover card, once it's at a zero balance.  When the closing date comes, Discover will credit back that $1.99 but you continue to ecru reward points.  You could certainly put that $1.99 on the card in other ways, but it's pretty hard to get the exact number filling gas.  Amazon works especially well because you can reload as little as 50 cents and you get the full value to use for your regular purchases.  I do this with several cards when they're not getting any AUs assigned.

I didn't know low balance forgiveness was a thing.   I have 20+ credit cards and it's always a hassle keeping them going even with auto pay.  My wallet just isn't big enough and I don't shop for myself very much especially in person.     Do you know of any other card issuers that forgive low balances and what the thresholds are?

discover, barclay, usbank, wells, etc.  I put either 99 cents or $1.99 (whichever is appropriate for the card) on my amazon online gift card.  I keep a spread sheet of both tradeline stuff and low balance stuff.  When I don't have a tradeline sale on a card, I let it go to zero, then move it to the low balance section.  There's a thing on....I think Dr. of Credit with a list of cards.

[beekayworld]

...   I have 20+ credit cards and it's always a hassle keeping them going even with auto pay.  My wallet just isn't big enough and I don't shop for myself very much especially in person.

What do you mean by "keep them going"? If you are using them for tradelines, the card has to have a balance above the forgiveness amount in order to generate a statement. Otherwise the Authorized Users won't get the benefit of having the card on their credit report.

As far as shopping in person. There's no need to.
On the first of each month I put $5 on Amazon for each of my credit cards. Then I'm done. It doesn't matter what day the card closes since I am charging something on it the 1st of the month regardless. (None of my cards closes on the 1st, so there aren't any borderline cases I have to worry about.)

This works if you want to be sure the cards are above balance forgiveness in order to generate a statement so the AU's get the benefit.

But it also can work for low-balance forgiveness. The 1st of each month, go to Amazon and put the LBF amount on each card. Just go through the stack adding $1.99 or whatever to each on. There's nothing to keep track of this way.

Some people use excel spreadsheets and list closing dates and checking a box when they've made a charge that month. But I'd just rather take a few minutes once a month and use all of my cards in one fell swoop and be done with it.

[beekayworld]

If you are worried about cards being closed due to lack of use (as you wait to season them), I'm not sure charging $1.99 each month and having it forgiven will work in your favor. I'm not sure but this doesn't seem like it would be considered actually using the card.  Perhaps do it most months, but once in a while put a higher charge on it so it will generate a statement.

[chicagomeg]

My PNC frustrations continue. A few months ago they made it so I had to use their horrific chat function in their app to remove an AU instead of doing it online. Now they are requesting that I provide my full social security number in the chat even though I am already signed into my account. The entire chat history sits there in my phone after the conversation ends. Such a stupid process.

Yes, I could just make a phone call, but phone calls are the worst.

[DeniseNJ]

You guys, omg.  I didn't' know you could call and ask for a reconsideration!  I applied for a Barclays, again, and was denied, again, and so I called for a reconsideration and they approved me over the phone!  Yay!!!

[Padonak]

Which barlcaycard is the easiest to get if you have a high credit score but several relatively recent hard pulls and new account openings? Is there any difference between different cards in terms of approval criteria?

[harrydogyo]

Which barlcaycard is the easiest to get if you have a high credit score but several relatively recent hard pulls and new account openings? Is there any difference between different cards in terms of approval criteria?

Barclays is inquiry sensitive.  If you're new to them you have a decent chance, but you may want to wait a bit if you have lets say more than 6 in the last 12 months.   

[katsiki]

Are you guys seeing more sales lately?  I have seen a major increase in the past 2-3 weeks.  Not sure it is stimulus related or tax refunds or what but I'll take it.

Hope everyone is busy with AU's!

[EliteZags]

anyone ever had luck in disputing a Chase card closure? like trying to convince them to just restrict adding further AU's but keeping acct open?
not devastated about it since I made over 3K on it

[Padonak]

You guys, omg.  I didn't' know you could call and ask for a reconsideration!  I applied for a Barclays, again, and was denied, again, and so I called for a reconsideration and they approved me over the phone!  Yay!!!

That's great, which card did you get?

[harrydogyo]

anyone ever had luck in disputing a Chase card closure? like trying to convince them to just restrict adding further AU's but keeping acct open?
not devastated about it since I made over 3K on it

I haven’t.   That’s why many here don't sell Chase spots as their cards and points are too valuable and Chase will blacklist you from other accounts.  You might find a datapoint on Reddit but I’ve heard of a lot of shutdowns and no reconsiderations.  At least they let you spend your points if they’re UR

[frogstomp81]

Anyone else not getting paid by the "New Company?" Or at least it was referred to as the new company several years a go when I signed-up. I always have to email them to remind them to pay me, which is fine, but this time they have not replied to my 2 emails in over 1-week, and still no pay for orders from back in December.

[arebelspy]

Anyone else not getting paid by the "New Company?" Or at least it was referred to as the new company several years a go when I signed-up. I always have to email them to remind them to pay me, which is fine, but this time they have not replied to my 2 emails in over 1-week, and still no pay for orders from back in December.

I spoke with the owner recently, he is out of town, but still that shouldn't happen. PM me with the info you signed up under and I can reach out for you.

[frugalnacho]

Anyone else not getting paid by the "New Company?" Or at least it was referred to as the new company several years a go when I signed-up. I always have to email them to remind them to pay me, which is fine, but this time they have not replied to my 2 emails in over 1-week, and still no pay for orders from back in December.

That is standard operation for the new company.  I recently pulled my cards and switched to the old company. Way better IMO especially with payments. 

[frogstomp81]

Correction, I sent 1 email over a week ago, and the second a couple days ago. Still no reply, and no payment. Will have to check out the "Old Company" I suppose. If they are accepting cards.

[PVkcin]

Question for anybody who may know the answer:

I'm with the old company. I'm relatively new to selling tradelines. I have a capital one card with them that's supposed to be on a 3 month cycle. Recently they have been marking (early) that my AU posted and paying me early, after around only 2 months. If it's posted and they paid me, should I still leave the AU on the card for the full 3 months (until the date they originally specified that I should remove them)?  I assume I'll just leave AU on the card until the date they said I can remove them, but wanted to ask your opinion.

[frozen]

Question for anybody who may know the answer:

I'm with the old company. I'm relatively new to selling tradelines. I have a capital one card with them that's supposed to be on a 3 month cycle. Recently they have been marking (early) that my AU posted and paying me early, after around only 2 months. If it's posted and they paid me, should I still leave the AU on the card for the full 3 months (until the date they originally specified that I should remove them)?  I assume I'll just leave AU on the card until the date they said I can remove them, but wanted to ask your opinion.

Yes, you must leave the user on your card until the date specified in their system, even if they already paid you. That user paid to be on your card for 3 months.

[secondcor521]

Question for anybody who may know the answer:

I'm with the old company. I'm relatively new to selling tradelines. I have a capital one card with them that's supposed to be on a 3 month cycle. Recently they have been marking (early) that my AU posted and paying me early, after around only 2 months. If it's posted and they paid me, should I still leave the AU on the card for the full 3 months (until the date they originally specified that I should remove them)?  I assume I'll just leave AU on the card until the date they said I can remove them, but wanted to ask your opinion.

Yes, you must leave the user on your card until the date specified in their system, even if they already paid you. That user paid to be on your card for 3 months.

And if you don't, they reserve the right to take their payment back.

[DeniseNJ]

Which barlcaycard is the easiest to get if you have a high credit score but several relatively recent hard pulls and new account openings? Is there any difference between different cards in terms of approval criteria?

Ha, that's the best part.  I'm turning 50 this week so to embrace that fact I got the AARP Barclay card.
https://cards.barclaycardus.com/banking/cards/#///
I got the essential Rewards card with no annual fee. There's another one for old folks who travel, which I don't, so I got the one for old folks who stay put.
Earn a $100 Cash Back Bonus  after spending $500 on purchases in the first 90 days
Earn 3% Cash Back  on Gas & Drug Store purchases
Earn 2% Cash Back  on Medical expenses

[frogstomp81]

Anyone else not getting paid by the "New Company?" Or at least it was referred to as the new company several years a go when I signed-up. I always have to email them to remind them to pay me, which is fine, but this time they have not replied to my 2 emails in over 1-week, and still no pay for orders from back in December.

Update: I just received an email from the New Company informing me that my payment has been processed and will be hitting my account in a couple days.

[SilverAg47]

This was an alert from one of the tradeline companies in reference to Bank of America cards.  Does anyone have a way to lower the risk of this happening?

"We have discovered a possible security risk with that bank where it could be possible for an authorized user to try to call the bank and request an authorized user credit card if they were to say they lost it.  We do not have any clear ways of trying to protect against this possibility but you can activate several alerts that can help you monitor that account and try to minimize the risk.  We are allowing credit partners to request that we sell their spots anyway if they are ok with that added risk."

[DeniseNJ]

How do you get your limits up to $30K?  I have a handful of cards and a 750 credit score and my highest limit is I think 15 or 20K. One is 10K and the rest only 5K or less. I use the cards for small purchases and have them all on autopay.  I think my Bank of America card is $1,000! I ask for increases and am either denied or they say that based on my use they don't think I need an increase.  How often do you request an increase and how? Do you call or go online?

[harrydogyo]

How do you get your limits up to $30K?  I have a handful of cards and a 750 credit score and my highest limit is I think 15 or 20K. One is 10K and the rest only 5K or less. I use the cards for small purchases and have them all on autopay.  I think my Bank of America card is $1,000! I ask for increases and am either denied or they say that based on my use they don't think I need an increase.  How often do you request an increase and how? Do you call or go online?

https://www.doctorofcredit.com/maximize-your-credit-limits-for-the-citi-gold-deal/

Some providers are better than others but Amex and Citi should be pretty easy.  Some are better with a call whereas some are automatic.  Try to avoid the hard pull companies if you can. That link tells you where that may be an issue.

[MoneyTree]

How do you get your limits up to $30K?  I have a handful of cards and a 750 credit score and my highest limit is I think 15 or 20K. One is 10K and the rest only 5K or less. I use the cards for small purchases and have them all on autopay.  I think my Bank of America card is $1,000! I ask for increases and am either denied or they say that based on my use they don't think I need an increase.  How often do you request an increase and how? Do you call or go online?

I think there are many factors that go into it, including how much total credit you have, income, debt and housing payments, and how much you are using the credit you already have.

I only have anecdotal evidence, but i've found that the premium cards with annual fees are the ones that give really high limits. I only have 2 cards with 30K+ limits and both were cards that had annual fees. What you could try is to get the annual fee waived, or product change the card after getting approved for the high limit.

[katsiki]

How do you get your limits up to $30K?  I have a handful of cards and a 750 credit score and my highest limit is I think 15 or 20K. One is 10K and the rest only 5K or less. I use the cards for small purchases and have them all on autopay.  I think my Bank of America card is $1,000! I ask for increases and am either denied or they say that based on my use they don't think I need an increase.  How often do you request an increase and how? Do you call or go online?

I think there are many factors that go into it, including how much total credit you have, income, debt and housing payments, and how much you are using the credit you already have.

I only have anecdotal evidence, but i've found that the premium cards with annual fees are the ones that give really high limits. I only have 2 cards with 30K+ limits and both were cards that had annual fees. What you could try is to get the annual fee waived, or product change the card after getting approved for the high limit.

Look for "visa signature" credit cards.  Some have fees but some do not as I recall.  They require a higher limit to be issued.