Author Topic: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house  (Read 10697 times)

ctuser1

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Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« on: February 04, 2020, 07:31:22 AM »
My 1250 sq ft, raised ranch house needs some work.

I purchased a relatively tiny house, requiring some work, in order to keep housing cost < $300k in a HCOL location (Connecticut). So, the fact that it needs work is not a surprise to me. However, I was still surprised to find out exactly how expensive it is to keep a reasonably old house (40y old now) going!

That aside, can I request your help in prioritizing the work, and help me figure out any other efficiencies I can gain?

I am not a very handy person. This year I will do a DIY deck painting project. That is about the limit of what I can handle as DIY at present. However, if you see some of these projects that are easy-DIY and is relatively easy to fix back up even if I mess up - then please point that out.

Legend
PriorityDescription
1Need
2Can wait, but will be a need in 5 years.
3Can wait, but will be a need in 10 years.
4Want

Tasks
#TaskPriorityDetails/CommentsDIY feasible?Cost Estimate (hire)
1Convert oil to NG1Scheduled for Feb 2020.No$11,000
2Paint Deck1All materials purchased. Waiting for spring.Yes--
3Roof (asphalt)225 years old.No$8,000
4Replace dishwasher2No$1,000
5Replace refridgerator232.75". Difficult to find good deals.$3,000
6A/C Replacement3Uses freon. Will need replacement if it leaks.No$10,000
7Roof (metal)4No$20,000
8Solar4Dependent on roofing done first.No$40,000
9Flooring for office room3Laminate coming off. Needs to be re-done.????
10House remodeling.4After NG Conversion, boiler room and the chimney space opens up for re-purposing.No$35,000
11Bath update4No$20,000
12Kitchen update4No??
13Driveway2No$4,000

[Added Later]
I forgot to include the 40-ft driveway in the list of things to be done. It is cracked and uneven. the house was built in a wooded area, and the ground has settled a lot in several places from the rotted roots. The driveway needs a do-over after 40 years of this.
This is not super urgent. It affects curb appeal, but still functional and can be lived with. I will probably put it in either category 2 or 3.
Estimate is $4-5k to get it done. I *may* get it done this year if I get a good deal from the same contractor who is scheduled to re-do our street this year. Else it may wait for 5 or more years.
[/Added Later]

My Questions
1. Any comments on my need/want categorization? How would you categorize them if this was your house?
2. Any suggestions how I can get some of these done in a mustachian way? Cheaper? Better quality?
3. [Added Later] Is concrete driveway worth considering, @2X the cost?

--------------

Editing the Subject to become shorter and more appropriate.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2020, 10:41:18 AM by ctuser1 »

CowboyAndIndian

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2020, 09:08:50 AM »
Since you need the roof and solar, check out if the Tesla solar roof will work for you.
Of course, you need to do the numbers and see if it works out for you.

Also, kill 3 birds with one stone. The oil heat/AC can be replaced with a ground source heat pump. Since you will have solar, you will further reduce your energy costs. I really liked https://dandelionenergy.com/ since they would give me a fixed price for it. Unfortunately, they are not in NJ yet.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2020, 09:13:02 AM by CowboyAndIndian »

jc4

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2020, 11:23:05 AM »
A little feedback:

Dishwasher: DIYable, yes. 1 water connection, and maybe 1 electrical connection. Worst case buy at Home Depot for $400 and pay a handyman $100 to wire up.

Fridge: $3K is a lot. Home Depot has plenty of options as low as $1k, and nice ones up to $2.5k. That's assuming you don't go via craigslist, etc.

A/C replacement: $10K is too high assuming your ductwork is fine. I'd peg at low as $3.5k, and as high as $5k (based on US Southeast). Lower if that doesn't include a furnace too. Don't DIY. You don't have the equipement. Annecdotally, I have a 1980 freon A/C and it's running on. I plan to let it keep going.

Roof: I'd place as a mid-tier DIY for Asphault shingles. If the deck goes well, you could consider it. I DIY'd mine. I work an office job, but am very handy. You'll need help. Say 3-4 guys for 1 weekend. I did mine in 1 day, but I personally worked 16 hours, and had 8-10 friends / family put in 4-8 hours. I can give some tips when you get there.

Remodels: Obviously there's a lot you can do. Reframing / structural, eh, maybe not. Paint, trim, install vanities, tile, etc., YES! Lots of DIYable tasks.


LifeHappens

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2020, 11:28:33 AM »
Also, kill 3 birds with one stone. The oil heat/AC can be replaced with a ground source heat pump. Since you will have solar, you will further reduce your energy costs.
I agree with checking on the feasibility of this setup in your location. If it doesn't work, then converting to NG is a good start. The cosmetic stuff can all wait unless it's literally falling apart. Get your systems set up first.

Jon Bon

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2020, 07:41:14 AM »
4 - Dishwasher is stupid easy. Just watch a few videos. But yes it should be <500 even if you have it professionally done.
5 - Big box stores have huge sales every holiday, just pick one up then for around $1000
6 - I can get an AC put in for about 2500 bucks, that bid feels pretty high. I would ask around.
9 - Laminate flooring is a good starter project for a new DIY-ER. Check out LVP/LVT that stuff is bulletproof

My advice to you is find "Owner operators" Don't call the company that advertises on TV, has a nice person answering the phone and drives nice custom trucks/vans.

You want the guy who wears the Bluetooth headset all the time because he answers his own phone, drives a beat up truck and sends his own invoices. The prices difference IME between these two guys is north of 100% Go to lowes and find these guys, drive around your neighborhood and find the work trucks. Talk to the owners, even ask their prices. A good contractor should be able to tell you a general price to install a 2.5 ton AC. I also take pictures of the sides of the truck so I can remember their number and their trade.

Do you have any friends that can swing a hammer? Have them come over and get you started on a project. Offer to pay them in cash or beer. This stuff is very daunting when your new too it, but having someone walk you through the first few steps makes life much easier.

I am also not buying the cost savings on:
Metal roofs
Solar Panels
Geo-thermal etc.

I think those things (for now) are often just upsold to rich people so they can have one up on their neighbors.

Good Luck






SunnyDays

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2020, 03:11:06 PM »
Not sure if you’re deciding on asphalt or metal roof or if you need both in different places.  Metal can cause dangerous snow slides off the roof so take that into consideration.  Do you really need AC in a ranch or can you just escape to the basement on hot days?
My priorities would be roof then heating then fridge (get a pretty basic one since there’s less to go wrong) and then whatever else is important to you.

Fishindude

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2020, 04:08:51 PM »







My thoughts, the following are pretty important:
Roof (asphalt)25 years old - This would be my top priority, your roof protects the rest of the house.   Metal may be nice, but do asphalt if that's all you can afford now, you'll have approx. 20 years to worry about that.
Roof (metal) - See above
A/C Replacement  Uses freon. Will need replacement if it leaks / Convert oil to NG  - This should be pretty high priority and you may as well do this at same time.   
Replace dishwasher $1,000 / Replace refrigerator - If these items are not working well, I'd put them high on the list with refrigerator holding higher importance.
Paint Deck  All materials purchased. Waiting for spring  - Sounds like a good plan

The following items can be lived with, but would definitely provide life improvements.   I've listed them in order of what I feel would be the most important:
Flooring for office room   Laminate coming off. Needs to be re-done
Bath update $20,000
Kitchen update
House remodeling.   After NG Conversion, boiler room and the chimney space opens up for re-purposing.


This is really a "want".   It won't improve your bottom line much and is quite costly.   Most of the world lives without solar power systems.   
And I would not recommend putting this system on your roof if you have some real estate available where it could be rack mounted.  Roof mounted stuff leads to roof leaks and makes re-roofing at some point extremely difficult and more costly.
Solar,  Dependent on roofing done first


ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2020, 07:19:17 AM »
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions so far. Please add any other comments or suggestions that you can think of. This forum has already helped me save a lot of money since the middle of last year - Thank y'all - and I hope to keep the improvement going. :-D

I forgot to include one thing in the list of to-do's - Driveway. Edited my OP to include that as well.

Cb1234567

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2020, 12:45:54 PM »
A few things I’ve learned from experience:
1. Exterior upkeep (roof, gutters, downspouts, siding, any painted wood window/door frames or sills) and plumbing fixes are top priorities. These keep water from ruining your house. Keep painted or stained things painted or stained. Keep caulking in good condition. Clean gutters and downspouts. Windows can be replaced as a whole unit or just the sashes. Windows are not cheap.

2. Look for the small time guy and a helper or father/son enterprises. Cheaper, less overhead for their business. If you schedule an estimate, and the person shows up in a shiny new Navigator or F250 with chrome and a lift kit...pass. Find the guy with a ratty old van who knows the trade. Your realtor may have a few contacts for you. Cash is king.

3. Live with the house for a while before any major remodeling. Paint color - fine. Stain a deck - fine. Kitchen/bath/room walls and plumbing - wait. I’ve found I usually reduce the scope of projects on my wish list as I learn more about how we live in the house. Sometimes the previous owner had it that way for a reason. This has saved us tons of money and grief.

4. If you talk with a vendor or contractor...or consult websites representing an industry, you can learn a lot. You also will be subjected to whatever the latest and greatest sales propaganda that’s percolating through the industry at the time. They may be offering Practical solutions -OR - they may be about to talk you into something ridiculous.

5. There always is more than one solution to a problem. Usually a feasible solution is cheap, especially if you just need a temporary fix. For example, try downspout extenders to fix a water problem before embarking on a $28,000 foundation waterproofing adventure. If someone is doom and gloom and insists this is the only way, find somebody else. Either the person isn’t experienced enough to know better or they’re too narrow minded. Sometimes you do need the expensive fix, but don’t start there. And if you have to do it, find someone who knows what they’re doing, not the guy who just went to “journeyman” school for 6 months and just started running daddy’s business ;-)

Good luck!

Examples:
- my mom went to a talk about solar and attic insulation that is space technology.  “Under $10 per square foot to insulate her attic!”, she tells s sounds suspicious, so I investigate. The materials they use are not this crazy tech that’s cutting edge. It’s foil. Less than $1 per square foot on sale at Home Depot, I know because we just used similar materials for a floor underlayment.

- my father-in-law bought a new air conditioner and hvac (blower, box with air filter and humidifier) for $11,000. It’s enormous capacity. He was all over the specs and the dreaded Freon issue (it will be BANNED!!, he says - as if every home, apartment, and motor vehicle with existing Freon systems will suddenly be outlawed). He lives in Wisconsin in a little 2 bedroom house, where the A/C is on maybe 4-6 weeks of the year.

- we moved into an old farmhouse. I thought we would take out a kitchen wall to open up the space. Turns out that I liked the 3 step kitchen’s efficiency and that the mess was hidden when we camp out in the living room. Never touched it! New flooring and fresh trim/paint, maybe new fixtures, can make a huge difference in your experience of a home.


BlueHouse

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2020, 12:59:04 PM »
Are you positive you want to switch from Oil to NG? 

I know it's cheaper and cleaner, but a project like that scares the bejeesus out of me because i lived in the northeast during the 90s when so many people were doing it and almost everyone I knew found oil leaks in their soil that they then had to excavate -- at a cost of tens of thousands that they hadn't budgeted for.  do you know what will happen if your soild is found to have been contaminated?  Do you know the implications in your state?


YttriumNitrate

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2020, 01:08:46 PM »
In the past few years I've replaced two AC units on houses larger than yours and replaced two refrigerators as well (the joys of having rentals). As others have pointed out, you can get a good refrigerator for $1000. See for example this one at Lowes.

The total cost of the A/C units I replaced recently cost $3,300 and $3,500. Your estimate of $10,000 seems very high.

I put a metal roof on a house back in 2010 (it still looks great). When I was getting quotes they ranged from $11,000 to $25,000, and I ended up going with one at $12k. Be sure to get quotes from several roofers since some interpret the words "metal roof" as an invitation to try and gouge you.

In terms of priority, I would focus on the roof  first. Paying more for oil or having a non-working dishwasher can be annoying, but unlike a non-working roof, it probably won't result in damage being done to your house.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2020, 06:59:21 AM »
Are you positive you want to switch from Oil to NG? 

I know it's cheaper and cleaner, but a project like that scares the bejeesus out of me because i lived in the northeast during the 90s when so many people were doing it and almost everyone I knew found oil leaks in their soil that they then had to excavate -- at a cost of tens of thousands that they hadn't budgeted for.  do you know what will happen if your soild is found to have been contaminated?  Do you know the implications in your state?

Thankfully my oil tank is not underground. It is in the garage, seating on top of a metal stand that raises it about 18" from the concrete below it, making even the bottom of the tank visible. @41+ years (since 1978) the tank is close to the end of it's design life. Replacing it with a new tank (which will be necessary almost immediately if I don't move to NG) will cost me about $2k.

For me removal of oil tank is cheap - $350. It would have been wayyy more expensive if it was underground.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2020, 09:03:34 AM »
In the past few years I've replaced two AC units on houses larger than yours and replaced two refrigerators as well (the joys of having rentals). As others have pointed out, you can get a good refrigerator for $1000. See for example this one at Lowes.

The total cost of the A/C units I replaced recently cost $3,300 and $3,500. Your estimate of $10,000 seems very high.

I put a metal roof on a house back in 2010 (it still looks great). When I was getting quotes they ranged from $11,000 to $25,000, and I ended up going with one at $12k. Be sure to get quotes from several roofers since some interpret the words "metal roof" as an invitation to try and gouge you.

In terms of priority, I would focus on the roof  first. Paying more for oil or having a non-working dishwasher can be annoying, but unlike a non-working roof, it probably won't result in damage being done to your house.

Is the $12k price for a standing seam metal roof?

Online research tells me that screwed-in-place metal roof tends to have screw-head-rot in a few decades. This negates the biggest advantage of metal roofs - that it will outlast your house. Of course, I'm no expert, so may be misunderstanding or exaggerating the issue.

Do you happen to have any suggestions how to find metal roof contractors? They seem to be few and far between. Is the one you used nationwide?

Indio

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2020, 09:14:06 AM »
I made the switch to NG after superstorm or hurricane Sandy hit. It was the best move. CNG is pretty cheap compared to what I was paying for oil and I never have to wait for delivery. Price fluctuations aren't as ridiculous either and the backup generator runs on NG.
Just in the process of putting a metal anonodized aluminum roof (appeals to my green side not to put asphalt on roof) on the house so no real experience with it yet. I got 2 quotes and the one from Home Advisor is Danbury was the best price so far. With respect to snow sliding off, it depends on roof pitch. I'm putting snow guards on the areas where people could potentially walk. If the house is landscaped near foundation it might rare that someone would be directly under a snow slide. Also, with the kind of mild winters in CT over the past 4 years, big snows seem to be on the decline. Metal standing seam roofs are ideal for the size of certain solar panels and they can attach without putting holes into the plywood part of the roof.

Sibley

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2020, 09:38:21 AM »
If you can paint, then you can learn a lot more. Start watching videos on youtube. Watch home improvement shows, and start paying attention to when they cut corners. Stop paying the handyman to come fix your sink and give it a try. Basic plumbing is very learnable. I don't mess with electric much, but that too is learnable. The key is taking the time to research and learn so you do it right. Flooring is generally something you can do DIY.

Also, you have a ranch house. Why do you say that roofing isn't DIY-able? Maybe not at your current level of knowledge, but with a ranch house unless your roof is incredibly steep its on the list of things you work on learning, and then it might be DIY-able. Roofing isn't difficult. What's difficult is being on the roof!

Even if you don't do DIY, having the knowledge of how it should be done is invaluable. It helps you determine when the contractor is blowing hot air vs. actually competent.

YttriumNitrate

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2020, 09:45:36 AM »
Is the $12k price for a standing seam metal roof?
Online research tells me that screwed-in-place metal roof tends to have screw-head-rot in a few decades. This negates the biggest advantage of metal roofs - that it will outlast your house. Of course, I'm no expert, so may be misunderstanding or exaggerating the issue.
Do you happen to have any suggestions how to find metal roof contractors? They seem to be few and far between. Is the one you used nationwide?

Yes, it was $12k for a standing seam roof. Here's the exact type of panel that was used.
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/metal-roofing/cut-to-length-premium-pro-snap-steel-panel/coppercolor1559818-75/p-1444448600838.htm

I could have used an exposed fastener roof and saved about $1,000 but as you mentioned those roofs rely on plastic washers for a good seal and my hunch is that they won't last as long. A friend of mine's parents put an exposed fastener metal roof on their house in the late 90s, and I know they ended up dealing with an expensive repair when the thing started to leak. Last year my inlaws also put a metal roof on their house with exposed fasteners, they didn't ask my opinion ahead of time, but I would have urged them to spend just a wee bit more to get a hidden fastener roof.

As for finding metal roofing contractors, just call your local roofers and ask if they have done a few metal roofs in the past. When I was getting quotes, the national chains tended to be in the $20-25k range while the local guys were half that.

BlueHouse

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #16 on: February 14, 2020, 07:45:37 AM »
Are you positive you want to switch from Oil to NG? 

I know it's cheaper and cleaner, but a project like that scares the bejeesus out of me because i lived in the northeast during the 90s when so many people were doing it and almost everyone I knew found oil leaks in their soil that they then had to excavate -- at a cost of tens of thousands that they hadn't budgeted for.  do you know what will happen if your soild is found to have been contaminated?  Do you know the implications in your state?

Thankfully my oil tank is not underground. It is in the garage, seating on top of a metal stand that raises it about 18" from the concrete below it, making even the bottom of the tank visible. @41+ years (since 1978) the tank is close to the end of it's design life. Replacing it with a new tank (which will be necessary almost immediately if I don't move to NG) will cost me about $2k.

For me removal of oil tank is cheap - $350. It would have been wayyy more expensive if it was underground.
oh good!   Good luck with it all ! 

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2020, 02:19:40 PM »
So, the NG conversion got done. No drama with oil tank, thankfully!

The final cost was $10.25k  after  including cost of two ecobee thermostats, and taking out the $750 CT state rebate for an efficient boiler.

$9.4k of that is financed, and will add $81 to my electricity bill every month for the next 10 years.

I also spoke with some roofing and driveway guys. Together, they should cost less than $10k if I stick to ashphalt. I’m trying to figure out exactly when/how I’ll do it.

I’m ditching the idea of a metal roof. The opportunity cost of the extra money spent is simply too high.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #18 on: May 15, 2020, 07:04:59 AM »
Further updates -

I am scheduled to have the roof and the driveway done over the next week or so. I am asking for a bunch of optional extras to be done with the roof/driveway:
1. Extend the asphalt paving to the side of the house, till the base of the back deck.
2. Install french drain in front of the garage, coupled with a properly pitched and compacted driveway, to solve a water-logging problem I often get. Extend the drainage pipe back through the yard into the woods.
3. New gutters, sprouts, tied to this new drainage system.
4. Gutter-Screen, to prevent leaves going in the gutter. I don't want to do the annual gutter cleaning - it's a hassle.
5. One side of my deck landing does not have concrete footing. This landing is leaning towards this side. Remove the wood footing and install concrete footing to improve the structural integrity of the landing base.

Total cost ~$11,000.

It is a good price for my area, but obviously expensive if you compare with LCOL areas.


SunnyDays

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #19 on: May 15, 2020, 09:48:26 AM »
Don't count on gutter guards to eliminate yearly cleaning.  I have them and still have to clean.  There's lots of dirt, shingle "crumbs" and pine needles that pack in there.  Plus, the leaves can form a barrier over the mesh that makes water collection difficult.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #20 on: May 15, 2020, 09:17:57 PM »
Don't count on gutter guards to eliminate yearly cleaning.  I have them and still have to clean.  There's lots of dirt, shingle "crumbs" and pine needles that pack in there.  Plus, the leaves can form a barrier over the mesh that makes water collection difficult.

How often do you have to clean the gutters with gutterguards? I know it will depend on the exact model etc - but just wanted a rough idea.

Do you happen to have any recommendation for any telescopic gutter cleaners I can use?

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #21 on: May 15, 2020, 09:33:57 PM »
Here is the complete job proposal the contractor wrote up. Any feedback? Suggestions? Anything else I should ask him for?

DetailsPrice
------------
Remove existing shingles down to deck. - Re-nail any loose plywood. If bad or rotten plywood is discovered, it will be replaced at a price of $50.00 per 1/2" 4x8 sheet or $60.00 per 3/4" 4x8 sheet - Any structural fascia, rakes, rafters or ridge that are in need of replacement is not included in contract price and will be discussed and repaired upon approval of the home owner. - Due to pitch and soffit size we recommend 6’ of Owens corning rhino ice and water shield over fascia behind gutter system, This prevents water infiltration between plywood and fascia which can occur if a ice dam forms on roof or in gutters and over flow due to lack of cleaning gutters. - 6 nails per shingle hurricane rated per CT building code. - Install Owens Corning Rhino Synthetic underlayment, this material is far superior than #15 lb Felt and in order to maintain warranty guidelines this is recommended by shingle manufacturer. - Install Owens Corning Starter Strip Shingles along all gutter lines, rake edges, and valleys. - Install Owens Corning TruDefinition Duration Limited Lifetime Dimensional Shingles per specifications using 1 ¼” roofing nails. - Remove 5" gutters to install ice and water barrier to fascia board to ensure protection from ice damming. - Install new 5" K Style .032 seamless gutter system as existing. Includes 2x3 Downspout. - <installer> owns and uses Equipter RB4000 to catch roofing debris, move materials, and bring material up to the roof. This ensures a smooth and cleaner operation. - No roof slope will be stripped and left exposed to the weather. Anything removed that day will be installed that day, unless unexpected weather. Necessary means will be taken to ensure no water intrusion. - Install Owens Corning ProEdge Hip & Ridge Shingles - Install new ridge vent. - Install new pipe and/or chimney flashings. - Install new drip edge & rake edge. - Clean up all job related debris - Option to buy 10 yr workmanship warranty from <installer> and provide Home Owner with an OWENS CORNING PREFERRED PROTECTION WARRANTY - 10 yr workmanship - 50 yr non pro-rated From Owens Corning *Free gutters will be installed after full payment is made on the contract - Our Company is fully licensed and insured. - Crew will maintain safety requirement at all times during the construction process following OSHA standards.$6400
REMOVE EXISTING DRIVEWAY AND WALKWAY
INSTALL NEW GRAVEL BASE
INSTALL NEW ASPHALT 3"
COMPACT TO 2 1/2"
WE HAVE ALSO INCORPORATED AN EXTENSION FROM THE DRIVEWAY TO INCLUDE ANADDITIONAL AREA FOR THE GARBAGE CANS LOCATION
$4560
INSTALL FOOTING AND CURTAIN DRAIN$1421
LIFETIME WARRANTY SCREENS, 25 YEARS WARRANTY$400

The total works out to $12781, but then he discounted it back to $11200 on the total.


SunnyDays

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #22 on: May 16, 2020, 03:39:25 PM »
I generally clean the eaves trough annually in fall after most of the leaves have come down.  Never used anything fancier than a ladder and hose with spray attachment.

That’s a lot for the roof.  My house is 1040 sq.ft. and I only paid 4500.00 in total for Owens Corning 25 year shingles.  Looks like they’re charging 6400.00 just for stripping.  Seems high to me.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #23 on: May 17, 2020, 04:11:06 PM »
I generally clean the eaves trough annually in fall after most of the leaves have come down.  Never used anything fancier than a ladder and hose with spray attachment.
Thx.

That’s a lot for the roof.  My house is 1040 sq.ft. and I only paid 4500.00 in total for Owens Corning 25 year shingles.  Looks like they’re charging 6400.00 just for stripping.  Seems high to me.
My house is 1280 sq. ft.
Roof+gutter+downsprout is $6400 + $400 for the gutter guard (called "screen" on the proposal).
It's still a bit more expensive than yours.

The rest of the cost for me is driveway + other stuff.

alsoknownasDean

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #24 on: May 18, 2020, 11:42:32 PM »
I don't know how you get $40,000 for solar. Wouldn't it be closer to $5000?

middo

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #25 on: May 19, 2020, 05:18:57 AM »
I would start with a few thoughts in mind:

1. Work from the top down, so you don't get water damage.
2. Work on anything that will lose value as it degrades, such as decking or exposed woodwork.
3. Things that will improve cost flow should be done next as they will free up money for more things later.

But a lot of those things can be diy if you give it a go.  Wall removal - I've done that.  Dishwasher, I put one in last weekend (seriously).   Almost everything can be done if you have the time to look at youtube and a pair of helping hands around.  Give it all a go and save a fortune and give yourself some pride in workmanship.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #26 on: May 20, 2020, 10:24:54 AM »
I don't know how you get $40,000 for solar. Wouldn't it be closer to $5000?

I’d do US$5k solar tomorrow if it covered >50% of my electricity needs. Unfortunately, all estimates put them over US$30k before govt subsidies.

Battery packs are another consideration for me given the net metering in my state sucks big time. That adds even more to the 30k+ figure.

JLee

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #27 on: May 20, 2020, 11:01:56 AM »
IMPORTANT - If you convert to natural gas and are retaining your chimney for any other purpose, you have to replace the liner.  Sulfuric acid will literally eat away your chimney liner...I learned this when I was having a courtesy chimney inspection before using the fireplace in my new-to-me house.  I learned that, likely due to the previous owner changing from oil to natural gas without redoing the liner, my liner was wrecked. I ended up replacing my boiler and water heater with a direct vent Navien combi unit and now I just don't use the chimney at all.

Linea_Norway

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #28 on: May 20, 2020, 11:04:41 AM »
DH and I did renewed the asphalt shingle roofs of our home and cabin ourselves. It is not difficult. Just read up on how to do the details. You can place one layer of new shingles on top of the old ones.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #29 on: May 21, 2020, 08:36:09 AM »
IMPORTANT - If you convert to natural gas and are retaining your chimney for any other purpose, you have to replace the liner.  Sulfuric acid will literally eat away your chimney liner...I learned this when I was having a courtesy chimney inspection before using the fireplace in my new-to-me house.  I learned that, likely due to the previous owner changing from oil to natural gas without redoing the liner, my liner was wrecked. I ended up replacing my boiler and water heater with a direct vent Navien combi unit and now I just don't use the chimney at all.

I got rid of the chimney. :-D. I could not wait to have the roofers cut the chimney out from the roof. It was old, decrepit and reduced the curb appeal of my house!

Next time I get the itch to spend more money on the house, I am probably going to remove the rest of the chimney from inside the house and re-purpose that area as a closet or something.

I have one of those wall hung combi units as well. Not Navien, but IBC.

JLee

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #30 on: May 21, 2020, 08:57:45 AM »
IMPORTANT - If you convert to natural gas and are retaining your chimney for any other purpose, you have to replace the liner.  Sulfuric acid will literally eat away your chimney liner...I learned this when I was having a courtesy chimney inspection before using the fireplace in my new-to-me house.  I learned that, likely due to the previous owner changing from oil to natural gas without redoing the liner, my liner was wrecked. I ended up replacing my boiler and water heater with a direct vent Navien combi unit and now I just don't use the chimney at all.

I got rid of the chimney. :-D. I could not wait to have the roofers cut the chimney out from the roof. It was old, decrepit and reduced the curb appeal of my house!

Next time I get the itch to spend more money on the house, I am probably going to remove the rest of the chimney from inside the house and re-purpose that area as a closet or something.

I have one of those wall hung combi units as well. Not Navien, but IBC.

Ahh perfect :)

I did have the thought of removing my chimney, but the house has a fireplace in the living room and the chimney is a large / aesthetically appealing stone one visible from the curb, and I think removing it would be a huge expense and likely reduce curb appeal too, so for now it stays in the event I ever want to re-line the chimney for the fireplace..

AMandM

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #31 on: May 24, 2020, 05:36:13 PM »
IMO bathroom renovation is a great DIY job, even for a relative DIY newby, assuming you aren't planning to reroute plumbing. Replacing toilet & sink/vanity, retiling walls and floor, painting, replacing light fixtures and towel bars and mirrors, are all quite easy to learn from Youtube. My teenage daughter and I did it, and I bet you can, too. You get to choose exactly the materials you want and you save thousands and thousands of dollars compared to hiring a contractor. (We redid our bathroom for less than $2k in materials after getting a quote for over $12k from a pro recommended to us as a bargain.) The satisfaction is immense.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #32 on: June 20, 2020, 07:38:04 AM »
Just saw the slickdeals thread today that Tesla lowered their solar panel price.

I did a "design" online:
https://www.tesla.com/energy/design

For my house, Tesla recommends 12.24 kW system (very close to other quotes I have got in the past). The cost is $23,500 cash - $5155 (federal tax credit) - $3672 (CT Green Bank Solar Rebate) = $14,669.

My electricity bill is ~$3100/year or so.

The numbers look *very* tempting now. CT Green Bank rebate is about to run out. So decision time.

CowboyAndIndian

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #33 on: June 21, 2020, 10:04:46 AM »
Just saw the slickdeals thread today that Tesla lowered their solar panel price.

I did a "design" online:
https://www.tesla.com/energy/design

For my house, Tesla recommends 12.24 kW system (very close to other quotes I have got in the past). The cost is $23,500 cash - $5155 (federal tax credit) - $3672 (CT Green Bank Solar Rebate) = $14,669.

My electricity bill is ~$3100/year or so.

The numbers look *very* tempting now. CT Green Bank rebate is about to run out. So decision time.

I went and got a quote online and it was really cheap.

 I do think that your price includes two power walls. This means that you do not have to get a generator and can have power for a couple of days if you lose power.

The price is great and you recoup your cost in 5 year. But the power wall option is the icing on the cake and I would get it!
« Last Edit: June 21, 2020, 10:09:21 AM by CowboyAndIndian »

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #34 on: June 21, 2020, 11:53:40 AM »
Just saw the slickdeals thread today that Tesla lowered their solar panel price.

I did a "design" online:
https://www.tesla.com/energy/design

For my house, Tesla recommends 12.24 kW system (very close to other quotes I have got in the past). The cost is $23,500 cash - $5155 (federal tax credit) - $3672 (CT Green Bank Solar Rebate) = $14,669.

My electricity bill is ~$3100/year or so.

The numbers look *very* tempting now. CT Green Bank rebate is about to run out. So decision time.

I went and got a quote online and it was really cheap.

 I do think that your price includes two power walls. This means that you do not have to get a generator and can have power for a couple of days if you lose power.

The price is great and you recoup your cost in 5 year. But the power wall option is the icing on the cake and I would get it!

My quote does not include poerwalls. Tesla recommendation was for 3 powerwalls, for a cash price of $15,170 on top of my original quote.

I did some research, and my conclusion is that the powerwall is *still* not worth it's price. a gas powered generator is cheaper (=$6k or so) as a backup.

Now, if net metering moved to wholesale prices instead of the more common retail price (i.e. if the utility stopped subsidizing solar at the cost of normal consumers)***, then it would add further utility to powerwall because then I can reduce my reliance on the grid altogether.

***Most states do net metering by letting "cheaper" solar power production to offset "costlier" grid power consumption. Solar generally produces between 10am to 4pm. Most expensive period ("peak") is right around dusk to 9pm. In effect, generally available net-metering subsidizes solar consumers at the cost of people who don't have solar.
CT was about to only allow you to get paid the "wholesale" price available during the times solar actually generates. This would have changed the equation drastically against solar. Thankfully (for me, personally; it is a bad thing for the free market) that is now repealed. 





ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #35 on: July 21, 2020, 07:37:26 AM »
Huh! I had no idea that the whole permitting/installation/activation process for solar is so drawn out!!

Right now (4 weeks after the process started) it is stuck with the generator interconnection department of our local utility for their approval. They can apparently take up to 7 weeks to complete this review and hopefully approve this.

So. My plan is as follows:

----wait
----wait
Yay, utility approved. Now submit application for the City permit (no parallel processing).
----wait
----wait
After permit is approved, see when Tesla has installation window available and schedule.
----wait
----wait
Installation
Then talk to the utility again to come in and activate the solar.
----wait
----wait
Activation.

Crap!!!

I hope all these steps complete before:
1. CT Green Bank runs out of it's rebate funding (it is very close).
2. Within 2020 so that I get the 26% tax rebate.


 
« Last Edit: July 21, 2020, 07:39:32 AM by ctuser1 »

Goldielocks

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #36 on: July 27, 2020, 03:43:11 PM »
Here is a thought about power walls.

Our house is 40+ yr old and has 100A circuit to the main breaker.  This is insufficient to put in a second suite with a stove and washer/dryer, so you need to upgrade to 200A, typically.   Second suites command a premium during resell here.

BUT!  I realized that we could take some of the load off the main breaker by installing a power wall that is trickle fed / solar panel fed to deliver energy to our electric vehicle and at least one other major appliance.

If so, the cost for a power wall is now compared to the very high cost (up to $20k) to get the electrical feed upgraded, because the main line is across the street and would need digging across the road.

What is your capacity at your main circuit breaker?

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #37 on: July 28, 2020, 10:35:42 AM »
I have 200A.

The house itself is 40Y+ old. But I upgraded 100A -> 200A a couple of years ago.

I am extremely surprised at your $20k estimate for the upgrade. Do you need to upgrade all the in-wall wiring as well?

The upgrade was only $2.2k to go from 100A -> 200A. The utility company came in and replaced the meter + the wire from pole to my house and that was done for free. There were some nominal permit/application fee that was included within the $2.2k that I paid to the electrician for the whole thing.

I live in a fairly high cost of living area (not Manhattan/Silicon Valley level, but still fairly high up there). So I am very curious what is included in that $20k estimate. If you need to upgrade wiring inside the house then that may do it. My house was also built 40 years ago. But thankfully, the wiring is still okay.

<edited to add>
Ah - I see you mentioned "digging under the road" thingy. Yeah - that can seriously cause the $$ to climb up.
I recently got natural gas. I did not pay any connection fee as I got it right when gas connection came into our neighborhood, and all street digging was already a part of the utility company plan. Anyone who wants to get NG after this year - after the streets are re-done by the city - will now pay between US $5k-$10k in connection fees.

I just have a overhead electric connection, not an underground one. So no such cost for me -> $2.2k panel upgrade.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2020, 12:48:43 PM by ctuser1 »

Valley of Plenty

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #38 on: July 28, 2020, 10:45:09 PM »
As someone who is in the middle of purchasing their first home with a few of the things on this list needing done, I'm loving all the insight here.

I'll be looking to make the switch from oil to NG as well. Hoping I can get this closing done soon enough to replace the oil furnace before winter.

ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2020, 12:35:34 PM »
As someone who is in the middle of purchasing their first home with a few of the things on this list needing done, I'm loving all the insight here.

I'll be looking to make the switch from oil to NG as well. Hoping I can get this closing done soon enough to replace the oil furnace before winter.

Thank you.

I'll be very happy if you find my experience useful.


ctuser1

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Re: My house needs some work - how would you prioritize differently?
« Reply #40 on: August 27, 2020, 12:44:06 PM »
OK.
Some updates on solar + some new things and random ramblings.

Solar
The solar thing is dragging on. It is the utility that is dragging their feet on the interconnection application now. They guideline is 15 Business Days, but I was told all those deadlines and guidelines are now out of the window due to the back to back storms as they had to do emergency deployment for all their workers.
CT Green Bank came back with approved rebate. So that is one good thing so far.
I'll let that proceed at it's snail's pace.

On to next issue - Other energy efficiency/insulation etc
Please face-punch me if warranted! (do I need to worry about it with Solar coming in?)

I scheduled an energy audit next month. I want to get more details how how the house itself performs.

I know the attic is not properly insulated. It gets roasting hot in there, and it cant be a good thing that my A/C unit sits there. I got a spray foam insulation guy come over and give me a quote for the attic insulation. 6 inches of open cell spray foam on 1300 sq. ft on roof would be about $4300. This would likely be more expensive on just the materials (albeit closed cell, so slightly different material) if I wanted to get the kits from homedepot/lowe's and DIY @350 each that will only cover < 100 sq feet if I did 2 inch thick insulation. (Am I wrong in some assumption?)
 

ctuser1

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #41 on: September 08, 2020, 11:03:37 AM »
Updates + Fresh questions....

Solar permits came through. Utility gave us PTB (Permit to Build) last week, and Tesla submitted the City permit application last Friday. One phone call today morning to the permitting and land use helped expedite that very nicely (I like being in a small city, City Hall is very responsive). In fact, the person on the phone looked at the permit application and emailed out an approval real time!!

My Tesla account now shows:
Quote
Installation: Coming Soon
We'll reach out to you when your installation is ready for scheduling.

Next: A question

Have any of you done blown-in insulation in your attic? This is not the insulation that goes under the plywood in the floor of the attic, but rather the kind that is blown in and attaches below the roof.

I was quoted $4300 for the whole roof + the walls at the end of the attic.

Any good/bad/ugly experience with this stuff? Does it save energy cost? Does it keep your attic cooler in summer and less freezing in winter?

 

Jon Bon

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #42 on: September 08, 2020, 01:59:59 PM »
Updates + Fresh questions....

Solar permits came through. Utility gave us PTB (Permit to Build) last week, and Tesla submitted the City permit application last Friday. One phone call today morning to the permitting and land use helped expedite that very nicely (I like being in a small city, City Hall is very responsive). In fact, the person on the phone looked at the permit application and emailed out an approval real time!!

My Tesla account now shows:
Quote
Installation: Coming Soon
We'll reach out to you when your installation is ready for scheduling.

Next: A question

Have any of you done blown-in insulation in your attic? This is not the insulation that goes under the plywood in the floor of the attic, but rather the kind that is blown in and attaches below the roof.

I was quoted $4300 for the whole roof + the walls at the end of the attic.

Any good/bad/ugly experience with this stuff? Does it save energy cost? Does it keep your attic cooler in summer and less freezing in winter?

I think you are combining a few things here.

1. Spray foam is put on with a "gun" and is very sticky. Can be applied to the underside of roof sheeting. Usually professionally done and expensive as hell. R value is ~5 per inch
2. Blown in insulation is either fiberglass or cellulose. This falls to the ground and piles up. You can do anywhere from a few inches to a few feet of this. Both are about 1/10 the cost of foam and very VERY easy to DIY.  R value ~3 per inch.

Your attic should not be that different in temperature to the outside air. SO yes it should be hot in the summer and cold in the winter. If its substantially hotter in the summer, and or warm in the winter you have a venting problem not an insulation problem.  Your attic should be well vented to the outside air temp.

Unless you have a conditioned attic that is. Are their register vents heating your attic? Is your attic inside the buildings insulation envelope?

ctuser1

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #43 on: September 08, 2020, 02:47:44 PM »
I think you are combining a few things here.

1. Spray foam is put on with a "gun" and is very sticky. Can be applied to the underside of roof sheeting. Usually professionally done and expensive as hell. R value is ~5 per inch
2. Blown in insulation is either fiberglass or cellulose. This falls to the ground and piles up. You can do anywhere from a few inches to a few feet of this. Both are about 1/10 the cost of foam and very VERY easy to DIY.  R value ~3 per inch.
You are right, I used the wrong terminology. The actual quote I have at hand is for "8'' R30 ICYNENE Classic Ultra Open Cell Spray Foam".
I don't like the option #2 as we use the attic as a storage area. My understanding is that we can no longer do that if we put Blown in insulation in there.

Your attic should not be that different in temperature to the outside air. SO yes it should be hot in the summer and cold in the winter. If its substantially hotter in the summer, and or warm in the winter you have a venting problem not an insulation problem.  Your attic should be well vented to the outside air temp.

Unless you have a conditioned attic that is. Are their register vents heating your attic? Is your attic inside the buildings insulation envelope?

The attic does feel hotter than outside in the summer (e.g. right now, even though it is no longer summer).

There are a couple of bathroom exhaust fans that open up in the attic. However, there is a big vent fan in the roof right above them. I will double check that the attic vent fan is working properly. It is kicked off based on a sensor. May be the settings of that fan are off. 

The attic is NOT inside the building's insulation envelope. The attic floor has R18 insulation in it, covered by nailed-down plywood. There is nothing on the underside of the roof. The attic is not walk in. It can be accessed via pull-down stairs.

I think what I was trying to do was to bring the attic inside the building's insulation envelope, with the hope that the attic will now be closer to the room temperature instead of the outside temperature, AND that this will make the house more energy efficient.

The current R18 insulation in the attic floor is likely not adequate. However, trying to add more insulation to the floor is either very expensive, or takes away the storage space in the attic if we do blown in insulation. Hence the "spray foam" idea.

Am I thinking incorrectly or missing something?

Goldielocks

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #44 on: September 08, 2020, 10:01:43 PM »
I have spray foam, the closed cell kind, and no loose insulation.  It's great.    Amazing even.

I was able to crawl around the attic on the scissor trusses while shining a flashlight looking for evidence of a rat that I think entered my home through a door last week.   I would not have been able to do this with the blown in / loose insulation.

The key benefit is the sealing and vapour barrier created, however.  No air gaps means that we have a lot less heat loss.   

Note, I have closed cell foam which is also very non flammable.   I would not use the open cell because it can attract moisture which would be a huge problem if it happened (mold).    If you have a vented attic, no moist climate and a vapour barrier along the ceiling, it could be fine.  Double check flammability.

Jon Bon

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #45 on: September 09, 2020, 06:30:10 AM »
I think you are combining a few things here.

1. Spray foam is put on with a "gun" and is very sticky. Can be applied to the underside of roof sheeting. Usually professionally done and expensive as hell. R value is ~5 per inch
2. Blown in insulation is either fiberglass or cellulose. This falls to the ground and piles up. You can do anywhere from a few inches to a few feet of this. Both are about 1/10 the cost of foam and very VERY easy to DIY.  R value ~3 per inch.
You are right, I used the wrong terminology. The actual quote I have at hand is for "8'' R30 ICYNENE Classic Ultra Open Cell Spray Foam".
I don't like the option #2 as we use the attic as a storage area. My understanding is that we can no longer do that if we put Blown in insulation in there.

Your attic should not be that different in temperature to the outside air. SO yes it should be hot in the summer and cold in the winter. If its substantially hotter in the summer, and or warm in the winter you have a venting problem not an insulation problem.  Your attic should be well vented to the outside air temp.

Unless you have a conditioned attic that is. Are their register vents heating your attic? Is your attic inside the buildings insulation envelope?

The attic does feel hotter than outside in the summer (e.g. right now, even though it is no longer summer).

There are a couple of bathroom exhaust fans that open up in the attic. However, there is a big vent fan in the roof right above them. I will double check that the attic vent fan is working properly. It is kicked off based on a sensor. May be the settings of that fan are off. 

The attic is NOT inside the building's insulation envelope. The attic floor has R18 insulation in it, covered by nailed-down plywood. There is nothing on the underside of the roof. The attic is not walk in. It can be accessed via pull-down stairs.

I think what I was trying to do was to bring the attic inside the building's insulation envelope, with the hope that the attic will now be closer to the room temperature instead of the outside temperature, AND that this will make the house more energy efficient.

The current R18 insulation in the attic floor is likely not adequate. However, trying to add more insulation to the floor is either very expensive, or takes away the storage space in the attic if we do blown in insulation. Hence the "spray foam" idea.

Am I thinking incorrectly or missing something?

What climate zone are you in? What year was your house built?

So maybe summer is not the best time, winter would be better to check. The issue is your roof gets hot as hell in direct sunshine and that heat comes through the plywood roof. Even if your super well vented your roof decking is going to be >100 degrees in direct sunlight. So it would take a massive fan to keep that from heating up.

Just know that you need inlet(soffit) and outlet vents (ridge/gable). Venting is good. You can also tell by looking at your neighbors house during a frost. The houses that lose their frost on the roof first are the worst insulated houses.

Not sure where you live but r19 in the ceiling is not nearly enough. I assume that is fiberglass batts in 2x6 joist bays? Unless its about 70 degrees year round I would want more insulation too. I think I have somewhere between r30-r60 in my attic. I blew in insulation over the existing as well as into the walls. Made a big difference. Now I have "guilt free heat"

Bringing the attic into the buildings envelope might be tough. I think here are products you can buy that look like foil. You staple them into the rafter bays to help deflect the suns heat and keep it out of your attic. This might be a good middle ground. Would be a few days of dirty hot work, but might make a big difference.

As for insulating your entire attic, I would assume you need to remove  insulation between the ceiling and the attic as well as have some sort of HVAC vents into the attic? Block up all the vents, this feels like a huge job and likely very little savings long term. I think a more targeted approach would be much better.

Generally you either need to heat and cool an attic, or vent it. I think you can do a "hot roof" but im not positive on how that works.




Papa bear

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Re: Help me fix up my &quot;fixer upper&quot; house
« Reply #46 on: September 09, 2020, 07:07:25 AM »
A good summary of hot roofs:

https://thehtrc.com/2011/what-is-a-hot-roof


you probably need to go with closed cell foam which can get very expensive and can also cause other problems down the road.  If you’re using the attic floor for storage, you might need to pull up the subfloor and add more insulation by either scabbing on 2x material on the floor joists, or adding foam board and then plywood back on top.   


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ctuser1

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #47 on: September 09, 2020, 07:28:00 AM »
What climate zone are you in? What year was your house built?

I am in Connecticut, i.e. Northeast of the US.

The house was built in 1978.

I'll go through the rest of your post to make sure I understand it well before I respond.

ctuser1

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Re: Help me fix up my &quot;fixer upper&quot; house
« Reply #48 on: September 09, 2020, 07:31:20 AM »
A good summary of hot roofs:

https://thehtrc.com/2011/what-is-a-hot-roof


you probably need to go with closed cell foam which can get very expensive and can also cause other problems down the road.  If you’re using the attic floor for storage, you might need to pull up the subfloor and add more insulation by either scabbing on 2x material on the floor joists, or adding foam board and then plywood back on top.   


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I'll read up on the link you mentioned.

The problem with trying to pull up the subfloor in order to add more insulation is that it is going to be a lot of work (=very expensive). I have to likely extend the floor joists so that a new plywood can even attach on top of the new insulation.

Dicey

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Re: Help me fix up my "fixer upper" house
« Reply #49 on: September 09, 2020, 09:49:54 AM »
Hmmm, a blogger I follow did a post on DIY foam insulation. I'll post a link when I find it...

We recently flipped a two story house. In the process, we gutted the interior.  I really wanted to do spray foam insulation, because the house was in a fairly noisy area and I liked that it's also sound deadening.

DH did his research and decided against it. Apparently, the foam is rigid and houses expand and contract with the seasons. Reportedly, the foam develops cracks over time, reducing its effectiveness. Further, if used in new construction, as the wooden joists cure, they shrink, which creates air pockets. It's also made up of fairly environmentally unfriendly materials.

We ended up using rockwool and insulating the interior walls, ceilings, and roof pitches, which dampened the sound brilliantly. The biggest surprise was that it was cheaper to hire a contractor. They buy materials by the truckload so the total cost of labor and materials was less than the price of materials alone, at a big box store prices.

Also, @nereo is providing great info on exsulation in his Going Green journal. Lots of good tips there.

 

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