Unless the house has sagged several inches, these sound like minor issues. But that might be because I've fixed these kinds of things before.
For the center beam, I'd build piers of concrete blocks and wood blocks at the lowest points of the sagging, and put the fattest hydraulic semi truck bottle jack I could rent or buy secondhand on each pier (on wood, not a concrete block). Jack the old center beam boards up until your laser level shows the FLOOR joists within a half inch or so of level, both with each other and longways. The center beam may remain warped and gaps may form between it and the floor joists. That's OK, and we have a plan for it. The whole house will creak and groan horribly while you do this, debris will fall on your head, you will think of dying in a building collapse, and it will be quite terrifying. But have some courage - you're fine. Get the floor joists level and then permanently attach new 2x10s to each side of the old 2x10s (e.g. nail gun, and/or impact drill and lag screws). The new, straight 2x10s will support any floor joists that are now gapping from the warped old 2x10s! Finally, remove the jack and its base.
Last step, buy a bunch of new 2x6s or 2x8s (whatever your floor joists are) and nailgun them to the sides of the old, damaged floor joists, ensuring that the ends rest on the foundation sill and the center beam. Some creativity will be necessary around plumbing, nails, and wires, and you'll need to knock out and replace the cross-bracing (just use segments of the new lumber for cross braces).
If you want even more stiffness and don't mind losing head space, nail a 2x4 flat against the bottom of the floor joists and/or a 2x8 against the bottom of the center beam. As the joists attempt to bow, they pull tension on these flat boards.
The siding issue is a matter of replacing rotted or missing boards as needed, but that's the story of more-carefully installed wood siding too. You'll have to special order the pattern. This might also present the perfect opportunity to blow cellulose into the walls or rerun electrical wires, as desired, while the wall cavity can be reached into. In other words, a very small mostly cosmetic issue that is also an opportunity.
Personally, I'd use the sagging thing as a hard core negotiation tactic to drive the price way down - at least 8-10k, and be done with the DIY fix in 2-3 weeks of evenings plus $1k materials and rentals. These are easy issues that just look hard. I had to lie on my belly with 10 inches of room last time I did an in situ floor support job!
Note that you might have to fix wall cracks and sand down doors after the job, and that the leveling job will be easier before you move all your heavy stuff in.