Post by: Alchemisst on April 11, 2019, 02:37:49 AM
Post by: nereo on April 11, 2019, 05:02:32 AM
Ok... in the spirit of 'it's not about the bike' what are you looking for here? Racing? Going about town? Trails?
I've got a Garneau hybrid with 700x28 tires and panniers that I use for commuting and running around town. Nothing flashy, never worry about it getting stolen or dirty and it gets the job done. I also have a Cannondale Caad5 (circa 2002, aluminum) that is for long road rides and road races. Again, nothing flashy compared to the rigs I see lined up at road races that cost more than a month our combined income, but I can crank out the miles and its one of the more comfortable frames for me. Sadly I don't get to ride that nearly as much as I would like, and its not a good 'around town' bike.
Only 'regret' is I really wish I had a bike with disc breaks.
Post by: GreenToTheCore on April 11, 2019, 06:10:18 PM
1) Single speed road bike
Love it. Got it in college and 10 years later it's still running great. It's fantastic to just hop on and pedal (yes our city has hills, but the gear ratio is perfect for my strength evidently). Only downside is rim brakes but I haven't had an issue (used in rain and snow).
Single speeds are a fantastic intro to biking: great first step in learning maintenance, don't have to worry about learning to shift efficiently, less expensive.
2) Cyclocross bike
I use it as my commuter/hauler. It's great on any route to do errands: road or forest trails.
3) Mountain Bike, previous owner built it as a downhill rider
Perfect for those 3foot snows or days I don't want to worry about cinders on my commute.
4) Husband's commuter: single speed, with mountain bike tires
It came with those wide-swoop cruiser-type handle bars. Makes it fun to ride, like you're off on an afternoon jaunt.
5) Husband's MTB: Elsworth
All around kick-ass mountain bike.
I agree with Nereo, whatchya lookin' for?
All of the above bikes were purchased second-hand. No need to break the bank. Heck, my original college bike was from Target, worked just fine for getting me around.
Post by: BTDretire on April 15, 2019, 07:05:46 PM
You mention you don't have to worry about it getting stolen, mine got stolen!
But thanks to my eagle eye wife I got it back, I chased the guy down and he got 4 days in jail.
Post by: nereo on April 16, 2019, 08:04:57 AM
I have two tone green 1996 Trek 820 I bought at a yard sale for $30.
You mention you don't have to worry about it getting stolen, mine got stolen!
But thanks to my eagle eye wife I got it back, I chased the guy down and he got 4 days in jail.
Congrats on getting your bike back, that's awesome.
When I said "I don't worry about it getting stolen" - that's; for two reasons. First, I find 'average' looking bikes get stolen far less than those that are fancier or the crappiest bike on the rack. Second, since I bought it second-hand and it's not worth a ton I wouldn't be crushed if it did get stolen like I might if it were worth $2k+.
I understand why expensive bikes get stolen. I'm less clear why thieves often take really crappy bikes, but in my observations they do. Maybe they assume because its so cheap no one will really care and/or the owner won't have the resources to track them down nad press charges.
Post by: GuitarStv on April 16, 2019, 10:00:23 AM
It got at least 6000 kms of riding last summer, and is quite happy keeping up on fast group rides with a set of 28mm tires. Shimano 105 5700 groupset, which is quite lovely to use. It's heavier than an out and out race bike, but is very comfortable on long rides. I don't like the cantilever brakes that come with it, and if you don't crank the rear QR skewer down really hard the rear wheel slips under heavy effort but have made my peace with both of these issues.
Post by: raylit20 on April 16, 2019, 11:12:28 AM
Post by: Alchemisst on April 19, 2019, 09:27:56 PM
Post by: jpdx on April 19, 2019, 10:16:03 PM
Post by: MasterStache on April 21, 2019, 08:28:29 AM
Post by: LittleWanderer on April 21, 2019, 11:13:22 AM
I have a steel frame drop bar touring bike.
This. Mine is a Salsa Vaya and I absolutely love it. It can do anything from road rides to commuting to hauling camping gear to gravel to light singletrack. You can never go wrong with a steel touring bike, although some can be a little beastly/heavy/overkill.
Post by: wbarnett on April 30, 2019, 03:40:30 PM
Post by: BDWW on April 30, 2019, 03:56:55 PM
Post by: habanero on May 01, 2019, 01:21:43 AM
Post by: Dogastrophe on May 01, 2019, 05:29:21 AM
Post by: MatthewK on May 01, 2019, 06:45:59 PM
I'm a somewhat recovering former MTB'er and have had some pretty pricey bikes in the past, the only one I really miss is my StumpJumper.....maybe again someday after the kid's are grown up :-)
Post by: Parizade on May 01, 2019, 07:40:19 PM
Sold me E-bike and bought my daughter a nice Giant Liv. Got myself a nice used Giant Escape 2 off Craigslist a few weeks ago for half the cost of new. My daughter has only ever had shitty second hand bikes. She is loving her Giant bike. We've already hit the local paved trail a couple times.
Did you not like your ebike? I'm thinking of getting one.
Post by: STEMorbust on May 01, 2019, 09:35:33 PM
Love them both but miss having a full squish (or a hardtail).
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190502/5a8721c8e6d19cf8918efc8fcd27a66a.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: wbarnett on May 02, 2019, 10:02:33 AM
Surly Krampus and Niner RLT Steel
Love them both but miss having a full squish (or a hardtail).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a Krampus and love it! I put a Manitou Machete on the front, and honestly think it's the perfect non-race MTB.
Post by: soccerluvof4 on May 04, 2019, 03:39:20 AM
Post by: Imma on May 04, 2019, 03:55:18 AM
Post by: never give up on May 04, 2019, 12:25:10 PM
I now have a steel roadie/light tourer with 105 r7000, discs and loads of tyre clearance. I love the bike so much. It’s like a companion rather than a piece of equipment. Being steel I want to keep it for years. I’ve even named it but won’t mention that on here as I’m blushing just at the thought!
Post by: ObviouslyNotAGolfer on May 05, 2019, 01:32:19 AM
Bike Snob: "You can't get a decent frame for under $5000!"
Another Bike Snob: "you HAVE to buy these socks for $45 a pair. You just HAVE to have them!!!"
Yet Another Bike Snob: " I bought this helmet for $8,000 because it weighs a femtogram less than the one for $40, you fat, disgusting failure of a human being!"
Yet Another Bike Snob: "ON your LEFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [loser!)!!!!"
Post by: wbarnett on May 05, 2019, 09:40:30 PM
I now have a steel roadie/light tourer with 105 r7000, discs and loads of tyre clearance. I love the bike so much. It’s like a companion rather than a piece of equipment. Being steel I want to keep it for years. I’ve even named it but won’t mention that on here as I’m blushing just at the thought!
Steel road bikes are the best. And come on, you have to tell us the name now...
Post by: John Galt incarnate! on May 06, 2019, 03:52:26 PM
And would you recommend it?
I've got a cheap, generic "mountain bike" w/ 26-inch wheels and tires that are 1 3/4" wide.
I don't know the brand.
It works fine.
I ride it from my house to my mailbox and back which is ~2 miles.
Post by: js82 on May 06, 2019, 04:40:44 PM
Don't ride as much as I'd like these days though, due to a combination of insufficient shoulders, massive potholes, and fear of stupid text-and-drivers. Thinking of picking up a mountain bike and spending more time trail riding so that I'm not a text away from becoming a statistic.
Post by: grobinski on May 06, 2019, 05:04:11 PM
I also have an Ibis Mojo full suspension mountain bike. I don't ride this nealy as much as I should and it is much more of a bike than most people would need but also awesome for carving sweet single-track. I hope to get many more miles on this ride when I Fire!
Post by: kukrik on May 09, 2019, 12:39:59 PM
Post by: Le Poisson on May 09, 2019, 01:13:24 PM
Bike 1 - KHS Eastwood Hybrid - AKA Momma's old bike - it has been relegated to train station runs
Bike 2 - Specialized Sequoia Gravel bike - My summer commuter and touring bike. Fully kitted for touring/commuting with multiple pannier racks and light and fenders, etc. New last summer.
Bike 3 - Devinci Desperado MTN bike - My winter commuter, currently a candidate for a 1X drivetrain conversion. It was new in 2006 or so.
Bike 4 - Electra Townie 7D City Bike - AKA Momma's new bike. Just got it.
Bike 5 - Frog 69 - Kid bike #1 - a touring setup on it to match the Sequoia. Kidd does up to 120 km/day on it. got through a sponsorship last year.
Bike 6 - Garneau "racer" - Kid bike #2 - Kid uses it for an around-town/school ride bike. Bought for $200 2 years ago.
Bike 7 - Schwinn kid bike - Kid bike #3 - other kid is just learning to ride this one.
Bike 8 - Tandem - Tandem setup so I can ride in front with kid #2 behind for family tours.
We have various other wheeled kid bikes etc. but they don't really count since they are waiting to go to swaps/donate/etc. We also have 2 bike trailers.
Post by: mspym on May 10, 2019, 12:15:59 AM
Post by: TallMike on May 14, 2019, 07:09:43 PM
I also have some issues with lower back pain and the slightly more upright riding position is helpful.
Post by: jeninco on May 14, 2019, 10:01:25 PM
I now have a steel roadie/light tourer with 105 r7000, discs and loads of tyre clearance. I love the bike so much. It’s like a companion rather than a piece of equipment. Being steel I want to keep it for years. I’ve even named it but won’t mention that on here as I’m blushing just at the thought!
Steel road bikes are the best. And come on, you have to tell us the name now...
I also have a custom frame steel road bike. I'm a lady-shaped person of a certain age, and I really wanted a bike that hurt nothing when I get on it. I ride it everywhere -- and I lock it securely all the time, to the point where I've chipped the paint a bit. I'm thinking about sending it back to get the paint refreshed for my next large birthday. I ride it in winter, with boots on. I ride it in summer. I go for "rides" on it several times/week, weather permitting.
I haven't named it, but I concur with the companion part... It's ... um, got the same name as a company that makes fancy crystal, but it's from WI.
I got it for a birthday that ended with a zero, and it's got ... my cyclometer stopped tracking around 13,000 miles. I should mess with the pickups and replace the battery, so I can go back to logging my miles, because on a $/mile basis it doesn't look so bad... I also got the guys at the bike shop that built it to meet me partway on the price (in fact, they put on some of the previous year's components to help me get there).
Post by: Xyngikyl on May 15, 2019, 12:17:03 AM
Post by: Car Jack on May 17, 2019, 07:07:55 AM
Cannondale F700 from around 1997 (no disk brakes). Last year of V brakes. Good choice as it was a last year's model and the new, at the time, disk brake Cannondale frames all tend to crack at the disk portion of the frame at the rear.
Sold my Colin Laing/ all Campy road bike I built in 1974. Too many stupid people on the roads LOLing on their phones instead of not running me over. I'll stick to the trails where I can see fallen trees and they don't come after me, even when I stop.
Post by: aFrugalFather on May 19, 2019, 01:26:17 AM
Post by: never give up on May 19, 2019, 10:06:11 AM
I now have a steel roadie/light tourer with 105 r7000, discs and loads of tyre clearance. I love the bike so much. It’s like a companion rather than a piece of equipment. Being steel I want to keep it for years. I’ve even named it but won’t mention that on here as I’m blushing just at the thought!
Steel road bikes are the best. And come on, you have to tell us the name now...
I also have a custom frame steel road bike. I'm a lady-shaped person of a certain age, and I really wanted a bike that hurt nothing when I get on it. I ride it everywhere -- and I lock it securely all the time, to the point where I've chipped the paint a bit. I'm thinking about sending it back to get the paint refreshed for my next large birthday. I ride it in winter, with boots on. I ride it in summer. I go for "rides" on it several times/week, weather permitting.
I haven't named it, but I concur with the companion part... It's ... um, got the same name as a company that makes fancy crystal, but it's from WI.
I got it for a birthday that ended with a zero, and it's got ... my cyclometer stopped tracking around 13,000 miles. I should mess with the pickups and replace the battery, so I can go back to logging my miles, because on a $/mile basis it doesn't look so bad... I also got the guys at the bike shop that built it to meet me partway on the price (in fact, they put on some of the previous year's components to help me get there).
Sorry I'm not telling on the name :-) Your bikes sound great. Steel really does make a fantastic riding bike.
Post by: sol on May 19, 2019, 10:54:09 AM
But I eventually got antsy and wanted a change, like a seven year itch. I bought a parts bike with matched gearing so that I could swap back to drop bars and have matching shifters, got halfway through it and realized the brakes wouldn't swap over and let it sit in my garage in pieces for a year. I started riding my Giant TCR carbon ($900 on CL) around town instead, after swapping out the clip-is for flat pedals. I had previously only used the carbon bike for joyriding instead of daily riding, mostly because the tires are only 23s and they're on these xero rims that are only 16/20 spokes. Given my history with hulking out on spokes, I'm still worried about my wheels whenever I ride. The stress of it is starting to get to me. I have visions of the entire bike exploding into little shards of metal and plastic the first time I really eat shit on it.
On the bright side, the carbon TCR is so lightweight that it totally removes all desires for an ebike. Going from a loaded steel framed touring bike to a carbon racing bike feels like trading in your minivan for a Lambo. There is joy in it, every time I saddle up.
Post by: FIREstache on May 19, 2019, 03:25:06 PM
I still have two old steel frame bikes, but I haven't ridden them in years.
I've only ridden an e-bike one time. It was fun, and there are times when that electric assist would be very nice, but I couldn't justify the expense.
I do the vast majority of my riding in very low traffic areas, but I sometimes take 100+ mile trips on my bike.
If the roads were better around here, I would have considered getting a road bike instead.
I rode bikes a lot from grade school through high school, rode less when I went to college at a university, then basically stopped riding for well over a decade, then picked it up for just a year, then moved and stopped again for about five years, and then I got back into it around 2005 and have been riding pretty regularly since.
Post by: Alchemisst on May 23, 2019, 07:51:04 AM
Post by: GuitarStv on May 23, 2019, 08:26:20 AM
Flat bars . . . They're good if you want to pootle along in a very upright/unstable position. They're good if you are doing extreme mountain bike riding and need the wide grip to yank the bike around and over logs/tree roots/large drops. That's about it.
:P
Post by: sol on May 23, 2019, 08:41:45 AM
I prefer riding drop bars all the time. They're faster for less effort, more (and more comfortable) hand positions, they let you brake harder without flying forward over the top, they're narrower/safer for moving through busy traffic. I ride drop bars on the road (including gravel roads), and hard packed dirt trails as well as through the snow and ice of winter, and have no problems with bumps. Your handlebars matter a lot less for that sort of terrain than your tire choice.
Flat bars . . . They're good if you want to pootle along in a very upright/unstable position. They're good if you are doing extreme mountain bike riding and need the wide grip to yank the bike around and over logs/tree roots/large drops. That's about it.
I hate to disagree with a seasoned cycling pro like GuitarStv, but I honestly prefer flat bars for city riding. The uprightness of your body position with flat bars is wholly a function of of your frame geometry and stem type, and can be identical to riding drop bars up top. I find flats give you better braking, not worse, because you're always within reach of the levers, unlike my drop bars where I occasionally have to fish for them before I can panic stop.
I find shifting about the same on both types as long as you don't have topside thumb levers on your flats or downtube shifters. I shift enough while city riding that I want to be able to do it on the fly, without moving my hands.
They don't need to be wide, and for city riding should be about the same size as drop bars.
I've also seen some really uncomfortable drop bars before, where they are too narrow and angled poorly and it's basically impossible to ride more than an hour without gloves and wrist pain. With flat bars it's much easier to hack off the ends and put on some contoured grips, and you've got the most comfortable hand rests imaginable.
As for yanking over logs and such, I do a fair bit of that in the city. It's much easier to emergency-evasion bunny hop from the bike lane to the curb if you have solid flats. When I ride drop bars in the bike lane I always feel slightly confined, like swerving into the adjacent traffic lane is my only escape route if there's a tree branch or dead animal in the bike lane.
Post by: GuitarStv on May 23, 2019, 09:00:36 AM
Drop bars that are positioned incorrectly do suck to ride on. So don't position them wrong! Start with your hoods about 1 or 2 degrees up from parallel to the ground, and the end of the drops pointing at your rear brake calipers (assuming rim brakes). That should at least be ride-able. You'll find that bar ends are quite uncomfortable to use if you point them straight up and down too. :P
I personally don't find an upright body position comfortable, or all that safe in traffic. If you can't see very well in front of you and to the left and right while in the drops, I'd argue that your bars are likely set too low (which is something I often see from people on road bikes). Bunny hopping is about the same on flat bars or drops to me. Any bike with clipless pedals is easy to bunny hop . . . you don't even need proper technique, just jump and the bike comes with you.
I spent several years with flat bars, and didn't find them terrible. Like Sol, I cut them very narrow and added bar ends. Then (since it was a riser bar) I flipped it upside down to get a lower front end and that was fine . . . when I replaced them with drop bars, I kept exactly the same hand position and width but added in a lower position for going downhill and getting out of the wind. Seemed like pure win.
Not sure that there's a real right or wrong here, everyone will develop their own preference.
Post by: sol on May 23, 2019, 09:29:48 AM
Any bike with clipless pedals is easy to bunny hop
I've totally given up on clipless pedals. My bike shoes are gathering dust in the garage.
When your bike is an integral part of your daily routine, getting on and off it four or five times a day (for work/school, groceries, library, local poker game etc) the whole idea of having to change shoes just becomes an undue burden. I hated walking around a store in clickety clack bike shoes, and I never bothered with mountain bike shoes that are supposed to be better to walk in. The added benefit of clipless pedals is nice if you're doing the STP, but for me it didn't come close to offsetting the inconvenience.
I want my bike to be something I can pick up and put down at will, like a car key. It shouldn't require any compromises or changes to my daily routine, I just want to get on and go. That convenience is part of the attraction, for me.
I personally don't find an upright body position comfortable, or all that safe in traffic. If you can't see very well in front of you and to the left and right while in the drops, I'd argue that your bars are likely set too low (which is something I often see from people on road bikes).
I never thought of my commuter bike with flat bars as having an upright riding position. My wife's bike has an upright riding position. I hate it, for that one reason among many others. Riding a bike that is the wrong size or geometry for you sucks way harder than it should. I think lots of people who try biking and then give it up do so because their bike doesn't fit them correctly. A well-fitted bike is like putting on old jeans, and you should be able to ride it all day without getting tired.
These days I'm riding a carbon road bike and the bars are definitely lower than I would like. It's just the nature of the frame, though. Maybe I should look into replacing the stem.
Quote
Not sure that there's a real right or wrong here, everyone will develop their own preference.
I totally agree with this, but our conversation here about handlebars isn't really about me convincing you or you convincing me. I'm hoping some other aspiring cyclists might find value in this discussion when choosing or modifying a bike. Both types of handlebars can work great, it's just a matter of finding what works best for you.
Post by: ysette9 on May 23, 2019, 09:46:08 AM
Post by: never give up on May 23, 2019, 10:12:54 AM
When I commuted by bike or was just cycling to friends or other trips less than a couple of miles, I much preferred flat bars. It somehow did feel easier for me to get my head up and take in what all the
Post by: GuitarStv on May 23, 2019, 10:17:30 AM
Any bike with clipless pedals is easy to bunny hop
I've totally given up on clipless pedals. My bike shoes are gathering dust in the garage.
When your bike is an integral part of your daily routine, getting on and off it four or five times a day (for work/school, groceries, library, local poker game etc) the whole idea of having to change shoes just becomes an undue burden. I hated walking around a store in clickety clack bike shoes, and I never bothered with mountain bike shoes that are supposed to be better to walk in. The added benefit of clipless pedals is nice if you're doing the STP, but for me it didn't come close to offsetting the inconvenience.
I want my bike to be something I can pick up and put down at will, like a car key. It shouldn't require any compromises or changes to my daily routine, I just want to get on and go. That convenience is part of the attraction, for me.
I've never used road clipless pedals because I also need to walk (in non-penguin fashion) after getting off my bike. Mountain bike shoes are perfectly comfortable to walk around in.
I like clipless for safety. My feet stay where they're supposed to with clipless pedals. They don't slip off in the rain, ice, or snow (studded flats go a long way in helping this issue, and I won't ride flats that aren't studded any more after a few close calls). As mentioned, it's ridiculously easy to bunny hop your bike when necessary with clipless pedals, so you're less likely to hit potholes or having problems getting onto a curb. They make it easy to put down lots of power when you need to. I also find that my feet get less sore on long rides with them. There's no difference in convenience . . . because I always put on shoes to ride my bike anyway. Putting on cycilng shoes is certainly not more difficult than a pair of running shoes.
I personally don't find an upright body position comfortable, or all that safe in traffic. If you can't see very well in front of you and to the left and right while in the drops, I'd argue that your bars are likely set too low (which is something I often see from people on road bikes).
I never thought of my commuter bike with flat bars as having an upright riding position. My wife's bike has an upright riding position. I hate it, for that one reason among many others. Riding a bike that is the wrong size or geometry for you sucks way harder than it should. I think lots of people who try biking and then give it up do so because their bike doesn't fit them correctly. A well-fitted bike is like putting on old jeans, and you should be able to ride it all day without getting tired.
These days I'm riding a carbon road bike and the bars are definitely lower than I would like. It's just the nature of the frame, though. Maybe I should look into replacing the stem.
If the bike shop didn't cut your steer tube you can usually raise the stem a couple cm just by putting some spacers underneath it, which can make a big difference. Short of that there are raiser stems, raiser bars, shallow drop bars, etc. Many (most?) modern road bikes are set up much too aggressively for your average rider, which is a shame. Comfort is everything. You shouldn't have a sore neck, sore back, sore hands, sore arms, sore shoulders, or sore knees. There's no point owning a bike you're not comfortable spending six hours at a time on. And if it's comfy for six hours, you're not ever going to complain about commuting to work. :P
QuoteNot sure that there's a real right or wrong here, everyone will develop their own preference.
I totally agree with this, but our conversation here about handlebars isn't really about me convincing you or you convincing me. I'm hoping some other aspiring cyclists might find value in this discussion when choosing or modifying a bike. Both types of handlebars can work great, it's just a matter of finding what works best for you.
Personally, I'd have put some aero bars on if I was keeping the flat bars. With a narrow/low handlebar position with bar ends, I think that this would have extra hand positions while also being as fast as (or faster) than drop bars. Kinda a ghetto time trial setup.
Post by: jeninco on May 23, 2019, 10:19:19 AM
Any bike with clipless pedals is easy to bunny hop
I've totally given up on clipless pedals. My bike shoes are gathering dust in the garage.
When your bike is an integral part of your daily routine, getting on and off it four or five times a day (for work/school, groceries, library, local poker game etc) the whole idea of having to change shoes just becomes an undue burden. I hated walking around a store in clickety clack bike shoes, and I never bothered with mountain bike shoes that are supposed to be better to walk in. The added benefit of clipless pedals is nice if you're doing the STP, but for me it didn't come close to offsetting the inconvenience.
I want my bike to be something I can pick up and put down at will, like a car key. It shouldn't require any compromises or changes to my daily routine, I just want to get on and go. That convenience is part of the attraction, for me.
I have MTB shoes (with recessed cleats) and pedals, and I wear them/ride them all the time, several times/day. The shoes look OK enough for the walking around I do, and our roads can be bad enough that I appreciate the ability to bunny hop surprise potholes, 8-inch cracks, and frost heaves.
I agree with the general principle, though -- it should be as easy (or easier) to ride a bike as it would be to grab a car key. So if I go out the back door I grab the biking shoes on the rack by the door, grab the bike from under the shed roof (we have "fleet parking" inside the side gate), and walk/ride to the street. If I go out the front door I'm walking (or driving), so I grab appropriate shoes from the closet there. My bike shoes probably get 50% of the wear I put on shoes, total. (Although I work at home, and am generally barefoot when I'm here.)
I never thought of my commuter bike with flat bars as having an upright riding position. My wife's bike has an upright riding position. I hate it, for that one reason among many others. Riding a bike that is the wrong size or geometry for you sucks way harder than it should. I think lots of people who try biking and then give it up do so because their bike doesn't fit them correctly. A well-fitted bike is like putting on old jeans, and you should be able to ride it all day without getting tired.
These days I'm riding a carbon road bike and the bars are definitely lower than I would like. It's just the nature of the frame, though. Maybe I should look into replacing the stem.
Not sure that there's a real right or wrong here, everyone will develop their own preference.
I totally agree with this, but our conversation here about handlebars isn't really about me convincing you or you convincing me. I'm hoping some other aspiring cyclists might find value in this discussion when choosing or modifying a bike. Both types of handlebars can work great, it's just a matter of finding what works best for you.
Definitely, what you ride on should be comfortable for you, and for the type of riding you do.
(X-posted with @GuitarStv, but WTH.)
Post by: robartsd on May 23, 2019, 01:52:49 PM
Post by: GuitarStv on May 23, 2019, 02:38:40 PM
My current bike is a Mongoose Alta that I got in mid to late 90's. With 20 years of riding this particular bike, I am quite familiar with it. Most of my rides are short commutes (<5 mi), but I have occasionally gone for longer rides. The longer rides tell me I could do better for fit - hand and wrist pain develops easily unless I ride upright with no hands. For quite a while I thought starting fresh might be best. Since I had heel clipping issues with pannier bags, I thought about getting a cargo bike. Kona's MinUte was looking very promising. Then I found a good deal on a Blackburn TRX-2 Ultimate Commute rack and read a review indicating that this rack sat very far back. The rack was perfect for me; so now I'm thinking about redoing my bike's front end instead of replacing the bike. I'd have to switch out the headset for a threadless one (not sure what all this involves) to be compatible with most forks these days. I'm thinking the versatility of a Surly Ogre fork would be nice. Not sure about handlebars - definitely want something different than the flat bars I have, but I'm not sure what (drop, butterfly, or a H-bullhorn hybrid like Surly Moloko or Velo Orange Crazy Bars).
Rather than switch your headset for threadless (I assume to accommodate cheaper/easier to find regular threadless stems?) why not just get a quill stem to threadless converter:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51SwUAKSdcL._SY355_.jpg)
Does the same job, but hella cheaper.
Butterfly bars are kinda cool (and you can pick them up pretty cheap on sale every once in a while - nashbar has them for under 20$ now and again), but if you're changing flat bars to them you'll have to change your stem length as well. With my wife there was about a 2.5 cm difference to get the bars into a similar location.
Post by: robartsd on May 23, 2019, 03:05:29 PM
Change to threadless would also be to get a fork that would work with disk brakes and is easier to fit a fender (and possibly a rack). A quil stem to threadless converter would allow me to try the topside changes without the expense of the doing everything at once, but I'm pretty certain that if I work out topside configuration that I really like then I will want to change my fork.
Rather than switch your headset for threadless (I assume to accommodate cheaper/easier to find regular threadless stems?) why not just get a quill stem to threadless converter:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51SwUAKSdcL._SY355_.jpg)
Does the same job, but hella cheaper.
Post by: GuitarStv on May 23, 2019, 06:41:23 PM
I like fiddling with bikes . . . and have pondered doing similar with an older bike that I really like. But every time I start pricing stuff, there's no way in hell it makes sense to do what you're talking about doing. It's always cheaper to hold out and buy a new (used) bike closer to the configuration you want.
Post by: dogboyslim on May 24, 2019, 08:26:50 AM
Bike 2: Specialized Roubaix. Road bike for riding in fast group rides. This was really expensive and not mustachian at all, but I like it a lot. Most of my fitness riding is on this.
Bike 3: Cervelo P2. I was doing tris fairly regularly for a while, so I have this bike. I have it on my trainer right now, and use it for indoor fitness rides. I still do the occasional triathlon. This bike is stupid fast, yielding me an additional 2 mph over a similar course at the same power output as Bike 2.
Bike 4: Cyclocross bike. I've been trying to sell this for a while. I got this thinking I could merge bike 1 & 2, but I didn't like it. No one apparently wants it, and I'm not ready to give it away.
Bike 5: Co-Motion Tandem. I use this with the kids.
In terms of style, I agree with GuitarStv on drop bars. All my bikes except the P2 are drop bars. They are much more comfortable than flat bars for me, as flat bars put pressure in bad places on my hands.
Post by: nereo on May 24, 2019, 09:19:56 AM
Where are you located and what's the Cyclocross look like?
Bike 4: Cyclocross bike. I've been trying to sell this for a while. I got this thinking I could merge bike 1 & 2, but I didn't like it. No one apparently wants it, and I'm not ready to give it away.
Post by: robartsd on May 24, 2019, 10:06:37 AM
You're talking about new bars, new stem, new brake levers (which means new shifters typically), new brakes, new fork.Yeah, you're probably right. I would keep my V-brakes on the rear (and probably not upgrade my front brakes right away). My shifters and levers are separate, but the shifters are twist shifters so they wouldn't work on drop or butterfly handles. I could probably keep current shifters and brake levers if I chose H-bullhorn style bars.
I like fiddling with bikes . . . and have pondered doing similar with an older bike that I really like. But every time I start pricing stuff, there's no way in hell it makes sense to do what you're talking about doing. It's always cheaper to hold out and buy a new (used) bike closer to the configuration you want.
Post by: dogboyslim on May 24, 2019, 11:36:41 AM
Where are you located and what's the Cyclocross look like?
Bike 4: Cyclocross bike. I've been trying to sell this for a while. I got this thinking I could merge bike 1 & 2, but I didn't like it. No one apparently wants it, and I'm not ready to give it away.
Not intending this as a classified ad. I did send you a PM.
Post by: Alchemisst on May 31, 2019, 06:51:57 PM
Post by: BobbyTables on June 18, 2019, 07:37:35 AM
Norco Valence 105 I got only slightly used for road riding and group rides. It's and 'endurance' style road bike and I love it. So far the longest ride I did on it was 100km without any discomfort, looking to do more.
If I had the space I would also get a steel touring bike for mixed terrain adventures and as a backup commuter.
Post by: DeniseNJ on June 19, 2019, 11:38:22 AM
Also, I'm seeing bikes in pics hanging from their wheel. Looks like that would mess up the wheel. Does it?
Post by: nereo on June 19, 2019, 11:50:53 AM
Where do you guys put all these bikes? I have one and find it's a bit in the way in the garage as I also have tools, a welding station, a wood working station, book shelves, etc. I mean I have my bike off to the side but like to move it out of the way when I'm welding or wood working so it doesn't get sparks, ground metal, saw dust, etc.
Also, I'm seeing bikes in pics hanging from their wheel. Looks like that would mess up the wheel. Does it?
Well... four bicycles takes up far less space than a single car. If you value the role a bike has in your life it's really not hard to find a place for it.
As for hanging a bike by it's wheel - no, it doesn't mess up the wheel. After all, a bicycle rim is designed to take the full weight of the rider, including going into tight turns and small hops (e.g. off curbs): It routinely handles 100+lbs of force and will briefly take loads of well over 200lbs. They are designed to be very strong. Hanging the ~18-20lb frame is not even remotely a mechanical challenge.
Post by: GuitarStv on June 19, 2019, 12:04:09 PM
Where do you guys put all these bikes? I have one and find it's a bit in the way in the garage as I also have tools, a welding station, a wood working station, book shelves, etc. I mean I have my bike off to the side but like to move it out of the way when I'm welding or wood working so it doesn't get sparks, ground metal, saw dust, etc.
Also, I'm seeing bikes in pics hanging from their wheel. Looks like that would mess up the wheel. Does it?
I put hooks in the garage ceiling so they can be hung up and out of the way. I don't do welding in my garage, but will just lift them down and wheel them out of the way if there's going to be a lot of sawdust flying around.
Post by: Le Poisson on June 19, 2019, 12:25:01 PM
I just ride faster the next day so it all blows off.
Post by: never give up on June 19, 2019, 01:45:47 PM
Post by: LittleWanderer on June 19, 2019, 02:07:56 PM
Where do you guys put all these bikes?
I live alone in a 1 bedroom apartment. My "dining" area has 3 bikes in it instead of a table.
Post by: jeninco on June 19, 2019, 03:15:22 PM
Basically, we go out the front door if we're walking or driving. We go out the back door and grab bikes if we're biking (which is more frequent). The design thinking is "it should be more convenient to walk out of the house and grab your bike then to have to go find a car key." There are shoe racks by each door, containing appropriate footwear...
Post by: GreenToTheCore on June 19, 2019, 08:34:07 PM
The design thinking is "it should be more convenient to walk out of the house and grab your bike then to have to go find a car key." There are shoe racks by each door, containing appropriate footwear...Great idea, design for success!
We're lucky to have a garage a couple extra feet wider than the garage door. We made a row of wall hooks at a 45 angle from the wall: takes up less room, easy to build, easy to get in/out, and easy to clean under.
**I'm not having luck inserting images or attaching files, so here's links to some photos:
https://ibb.co/nrWZ4Ht
https://ibb.co/1fYLQcL
Post by: Metalcat on June 20, 2019, 04:44:42 AM
-mine is a Rocky Mountain hybrid
-DH's summer daily driver is a 20 year old Gary Fisher mountain bike
-DH's winter daily driver is a Specialized mountain bike
-DH's actual riding-in-the-mountains bike is a 20 year old Brody
We store the daily drivers in the summer in a sort of garden shed container on the front lawn (townhouse, no garage) In the winter, everything is inside in the basement. 2 bikes hang from hooks on the ceiling.
Our new condo has dedicated bike cages, so that's great, but we haven't yet found out how many spots we can get.
Post by: mountain mustache on June 20, 2019, 06:37:06 AM
- Specialized Crux- for fast road rides, long gravel roads, etc
- Pivot 429sl- for endurance mtb racing
- Yeti carbon trail bike- for fun mountain biking...this is not really "mine" but my borrowed bike for the summer.
- Bridgestone MB2- my get around town, get groceries, ride to work bike. Old mtb that I made into a townie with some riser bars and a milk crate for a basket.
This is actually the least amount of bikes I've had in a while. I'll probably build up a hardtail this summer as I miss having one, and enjoy the efficiency.
Post by: robartsd on June 20, 2019, 09:59:54 AM
Post by: aceyou on June 22, 2019, 09:45:17 PM
Black
2017
$1100, but it was their floor model, so I got it for $600.
I love it.
Post by: lutorm on August 29, 2019, 12:34:49 AM
Post by: BlueHouse on August 30, 2019, 09:18:54 AM
It was expensive but I get a lot of compliments on it when I ride it around town (yes, random people yell out that they love my chartreuse colored bicycle).
I don't like the geometry of it -- I get to sit upright (which was the goal) but that makes the pedals close to the front wheel, and when I turn the wheel, my foot touches the wheel. Freaks me out every single time.
Post by: moof on August 30, 2019, 11:05:23 AM
...+1. There have been a lot of odd trends in bikes over the years, but this is one that is just insane. My craigslist road bike has a "compact geometry", whatever the heck that is, that includes having a long stem to make up for the short wheelbase. At low speeds I bump into the tire with my toes more than I like, especially when I have my fenders on it. A non-interference design should be a given, but it is not. The long stem makes for odd handling when taking off aggressively from a stop, especially if I have loaded panniers on it. I am sure that someone concluded the short wheelbase fad was beneficial, but for me it is just dumb.
I don't like the geometry of it -- I get to sit upright (which was the goal) but that makes the pedals close to the front wheel, and when I turn the wheel, my foot touches the wheel. Freaks me out every single time.
A lot of bike choice comes down to what the "pros" are using, which rarely lines up with commuting and casual use. Buying a mountain bike requires wading through all the lingo of XC/Enduro/Downhill/etc. Most are mimicking race bike rather than just giving an old fart like me comfortable rugged bike with big tires that can take the occasional bump and gravel road.
Post by: MatthewK on September 02, 2019, 06:00:01 PM
I know, not frugal but really bikes are the only thing I spend much money on and the only thing I don't mind going fancy on. It's a great bike and a ton of fun.
I will be searching CL soon for an older but good working 26er hardtail to ride trails again. I figure the 29ers and 27.5's have made them all but obsolete, someones gotta have a good one sitting in their garage collecting dust.
Post by: wbarnett on September 16, 2019, 10:57:10 AM
I also have a custom frame steel road bike. I'm a lady-shaped person of a certain age, and I really wanted a bike that hurt nothing when I get on it. I ride it everywhere -- and I lock it securely all the time, to the point where I've chipped the paint a bit. I'm thinking about sending it back to get the paint refreshed for my next large birthday. I ride it in winter, with boots on. I ride it in summer. I go for "rides" on it several times/week, weather permitting.
I haven't named it, but I concur with the companion part... It's ... um, got the same name as a company that makes fancy crystal, but it's from WI.
Waterford! Do I win?
A custom steel frame is on my wish list too, although they're sooo expensive (look up Sklar Bikes in Bozeman - that's my dream). I'm working on rationalizing the expense, since it's actually my year-round vehicle. Costs less than a car, looks awesome, loads more fun. I'm pretty much there...
Post by: jeninco on September 23, 2019, 09:02:58 AM
I also have a custom frame steel road bike. I'm a lady-shaped person of a certain age, and I really wanted a bike that hurt nothing when I get on it. I ride it everywhere -- and I lock it securely all the time, to the point where I've chipped the paint a bit. I'm thinking about sending it back to get the paint refreshed for my next large birthday. I ride it in winter, with boots on. I ride it in summer. I go for "rides" on it several times/week, weather permitting.
I haven't named it, but I concur with the companion part... It's ... um, got the same name as a company that makes fancy crystal, but it's from WI.
Waterford! Do I win?
A custom steel frame is on my wish list too, although they're sooo expensive (look up Sklar Bikes in Bozeman - that's my dream). I'm working on rationalizing the expense, since it's actually my year-round vehicle. Costs less than a car, looks awesome, loads more fun. I'm pretty much there...
You win! Cake all around!
I bought mine (new, obviously) before prices skyrocketed. I spent a LOT of time hanging around the bike shop, and gave the mechanics a ceiling price. They wound up picking a box of the previous years components off the back of the shelf to make me happy...
Also, the bike now has maybe close to 15K miles on it? My cyclometer stopped tracking at about 12K, and I haven't gotten around to fixing it...
I classify it as an indulgence, but one that makes me happy about every day. :^)
Post by: wbarnett on September 28, 2019, 08:46:06 AM
...
I don't like the geometry of it -- I get to sit upright (which was the goal) but that makes the pedals close to the front wheel, and when I turn the wheel, my foot touches the wheel. Freaks me out every single time.
Strange. Is your PublicBike the more townie looking one? Toe overlap on the front wheel is annoying, for sure. But usually it's the result of: 1) a frame being too small for the rider; 2) dumb design; 3) racing geometry. I didn't figure PublicBike would fall into category 2 or 3.
+1. There have been a lot of odd trends in bikes over the years, but this is one that is just insane. My craigslist road bike has a "compact geometry", whatever the heck that is...
Yep, compact geometry is just a marketing gimmick. I used to ride an 80s touring bike (garage sale find) for this reason.
Post by: GuitarStv on September 28, 2019, 12:39:33 PM
Toe overlap isn't typically an issue because the only time you really are at risk of bumping your toe into the front wheel of a road bike is when you're track standing or nearly stopped. All other times you will be leaning the bike to steer, not wrenching the handlebars from side to side . . . so the front wheel rarely gets more than a couple degrees of turn off center and won't bump your toe.
Post by: wbarnett on October 01, 2019, 12:19:53 PM
It also makes the bike a few hundred grams lighter for free because of the smaller frame. None of that is a scam . . . but it's all useless if you just want to pootle along barely above a stopped pace in an upright position.
Toe overlap isn't typically an issue because the only time you really are at risk of bumping your toe into the front wheel of a road bike is when you're track standing or nearly stopped.
My understanding is that there might be benefits of compact geometry, but they are largely out-weighed by other cons. Less frame material is required, for instance, but the slanted top tube requires a longer seatpost. I didn't say it's a scam, but I do think it's mostly a marketing gimmick. We can agree to disagree.
I commute year-round on a racing CX frame and toe overlap happens other times besides track standing (I tend not to 'pootle along barely above a stopped pace'). Tight turns while pedaling, starting again from a stoplight, avoiding idiots walking off the curb staring at their phone, etc. It's not a big deal when racing, but it would be pretty annoying on an upright townie bike.
Post by: BlueHouse on October 01, 2019, 12:24:56 PM
...
I don't like the geometry of it -- I get to sit upright (which was the goal) but that makes the pedals close to the front wheel, and when I turn the wheel, my foot touches the wheel. Freaks me out every single time.
Strange. Is your PublicBike the more townie looking one? Toe overlap on the front wheel is annoying, for sure. But usually it's the result of: 1) a frame being too small for the rider; 2) dumb design; 3) racing geometry. I didn't figure PublicBike would fall into category 2 or 3.+1. There have been a lot of odd trends in bikes over the years, but this is one that is just insane. My craigslist road bike has a "compact geometry", whatever the heck that is...
Yep, compact geometry is just a marketing gimmick. I used to ride an 80s touring bike (garage sale find) for this reason.
This is the bike I have
https://publicbikes.com/collections/womens-bikes/products/public-c7i?variant=15347579093055 (https://publicbikes.com/collections/womens-bikes/products/public-c7i?variant=15347579093055)
Recovering from an injury, I needed step-through style and upright ride. I also wanted internal gears because of all the stop/start and the need to be able to start at a low gear. I ordered a size small/medium because my height fit into their size guide (just barely) and my legs are kind of short. The toe overlap is annoying when running through obstacles in the city. Straight lines are pretty rare. Even when I'm riding on a straight stretch of road or sidewalk, there are always bollards and cement planters to avoid. Because of all the stop signs/red lights and pedestrians, I typically ride very slowly and rarely in a straight line.
This may just not be the right bike for me. It's also extremely heavy, but that wasn't much of a concern for me.
Post by: GuitarStv on October 01, 2019, 12:33:28 PM
It also makes the bike a few hundred grams lighter for free because of the smaller frame. None of that is a scam . . . but it's all useless if you just want to pootle along barely above a stopped pace in an upright position.
Toe overlap isn't typically an issue because the only time you really are at risk of bumping your toe into the front wheel of a road bike is when you're track standing or nearly stopped.
My understanding is that there might be benefits of compact geometry, but they are largely out-weighed by other cons. Less frame material is required, for instance, but the slanted top tube requires a longer seatpost. I didn't say it's a scam, but I do think it's mostly a marketing gimmick. We can agree to disagree.
I commute year-round on a racing CX frame and toe overlap happens other times besides track standing (I tend not to 'pootle along barely above a stopped pace'). Tight turns while pedaling, starting again from a stoplight, avoiding idiots walking off the curb staring at their phone, etc. It's not a big deal when racing, but it would be pretty annoying on an upright townie bike.
A longer seat post is more flexible, and provides greater comfort. :P
I'm not really wedded to compact geometry (don't currently have a bike with it), but I feel like a lot of the complaints about it are kinda unfounded.
Post by: mspym on October 01, 2019, 02:21:54 PM
Post by: ChpBstrd on January 03, 2020, 02:03:35 PM
2002ish Torrelli Corsa Strada steel frame
Ultegra components, about 19 lbs
Given to me for free by an uncle because it had two flats and a layer of dust
Highly recommended if you live somewhere flat. No low gears for hill climbs. Or maybe I’m weak.
Mountain:
2008 Jamis Dakar 26er full suspension
SRAM X9 components, RockShox XC30, 34 lbs
Paid $300 from Craigslist 3? years ago
OK bike but a little heavy and rear shock has ovaled out the bolt hole, so it’s a little loose. Plus the rear shock pogos a bit even at maximum air pressure. Or maybe I’m fat at 195lbs.
Mountain for DW:
2005 Giant Rincon
Alivio components, elastomer fork, cushy seat, police style road tires, 32lbs
Paid $400 in 2005
Decent bike, but rarely ridden. Threatening to sell, but too sad to follow through.
Kid’s bike 1:
Wooden strider bike from Amazon.
No brakes or drivetrain
Seems like a great concept to learn balance, but kid was never a fan.
Seat was too uncomfortable to get around the block.
Paid about $50 two years ago. Threatening to sell.
Kids bike 2:
Steel 16” BMX style, red
Custom plastic webbed seat, blue
Handlebars pulled way back
Seat as low as it goes
Kid likes this much more, even though it weighs more than some adult bikes!
Paid $15 for bike at thrift store, $6 for seat
Project bike:
1998? Raleigh M60 mountain bike
Shitty RST elastomer fork that barely works, STX/Alivio, maybe 29 lbs?
Fixing up for my dad
Replacing deteriorated rubber grip shifters with new Alivio triggers ($15 fix!)
Thinking about putting a $50-100 off-brand fork on it, but hard to make such an investment in a 20y/o bike.
Post by: robartsd on January 06, 2020, 09:05:14 AM
Project bike:Bike frames can last a very long time unless they are severely abused. I wouldn't worry about the age of the bike; I'm still riding a Mongoose Alta from 1996. My bike still has an old elastomer fork that barely works; but I probably would change the fork out if it weren't for the bike having a threaded headset.
1998? Raleigh M60 mountain bike
Shitty RST elastomer fork that barely works, STX/Alivio, maybe 29 lbs?
Fixing up for my dad
Replacing deteriorated rubber grip shifters with new Alivio triggers ($15 fix!)
Thinking about putting a $50-100 off-brand fork on it, but hard to make such an investment in a 20y/o bike.
Post by: turketron on January 06, 2020, 09:42:17 AM
Single speed commuter built by a local guy- nothing fancy, but it does what I need it to. My city's pretty flat so single speed works just fine, and there's no extra maintenance/weight from components I don't really need. Bought it just over a year ago, and I haven't made any major modifications to it yet. I just bought a set of Ergo grips to give me some added hand positions but haven't installed them yet. Will probably add a rack/panniers on the back at some point.
Post by: ChpBstrd on January 06, 2020, 03:05:08 PM
Project bike:Bike frames can last a very long time unless they are severely abused. I wouldn't worry about the age of the bike; I'm still riding a Mongoose Alta from 1996. My bike still has an old elastomer fork that barely works; but I probably would change the fork out if it weren't for the bike having a threaded headset.
1998? Raleigh M60 mountain bike
Shitty RST elastomer fork that barely works, STX/Alivio, maybe 29 lbs?
Fixing up for my dad
Replacing deteriorated rubber grip shifters with new Alivio triggers ($15 fix!)
Thinking about putting a $50-100 off-brand fork on it, but hard to make such an investment in a 20y/o bike.
Unfortunately everyone on eBay is convinced their 15 year old fork with leaky seals is worth at least $100 or we’d both be riding SID XCs on our antique bikes.
Post by: Ricochet on January 15, 2020, 09:23:06 AM
Post by: ChpBstrd on January 15, 2020, 10:30:47 AM
The design thinking is "it should be more convenient to walk out of the house and grab your bike then to have to go find a car key." There are shoe racks by each door, containing appropriate footwear...Great idea, design for success!
We're lucky to have a garage a couple extra feet wider than the garage door. We made a row of wall hooks at a 45 angle from the wall: takes up less room, easy to build, easy to get in/out, and easy to clean under.
I installed a row of wheel hooks on a horizontal board maybe 3.5 feet high so that all 4 of my bikes hang on the wall tightly side-by-side with their back tires on the floor - essentially doing a wheelie into the wall. The low ceiling in my space provides no advantage to overhead storage, so this minimizes the footprint as much as is possible. Plus I’ve found that hooking the bikes in and out is easiest this way because there is no lifting, reaching, or hoisting involved. Pushing the seat forward causes the front wheel to roll upward while still hooked in, until the bike’s weight is completely on the back wheel. Then with a little twist, it’s unhooked and I back it out by the handlebars. It’s a minimal thing to be ready to ride.
At a previous house, the garage had no ceiling (why do garages need ceilings anyway?) so I was able to attach ropes and pullies to the roof rafters and hoist bikes, roof racks, and a bike trailer over the cars. This freed up floor space, but was not as easily accessible as I’d hoped. You had to move a car to get a bike, so at that point you just drive.
Designing for ease of access is paramount.
Post by: robartsd on January 15, 2020, 11:36:38 AM
At a previous house, the garage had no ceiling (why do garages need ceilings anyway?) so I was able to attach ropes and pullies to the roof rafters and hoist bikes, roof racks, and a bike trailer over the cars. This freed up floor space, but was not as easily accessible as I’d hoped. You had to move a car to get a bike, so at that point you just drive.Garage ceiling is likely for fire separation. It prevents rapid spread of a fire starting in the garage to the attic over the entire house. It's usually easier to put a ceiling over the garage than to extend the walls up to the roof.
Designing for ease of access is paramount.
If I changed bikes seasonally and had the overhead space, I'd likely store out of season bikes over the car. I agree that a bike intended as a primary transportation source needs to be at least as easy to get out as the car.
Post by: STEMorbust on January 17, 2020, 03:54:39 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: norajean on January 17, 2020, 05:17:14 PM
(https://cdn01.bcycle.com/libraries/images/default-source/default-library/tk16_bcycle_dash_front_angle.jpg?sfvrsn=19565cc5_0
width=100)
Post by: never give up on January 18, 2020, 01:15:12 AM
Post by: Alchemisst on April 08, 2020, 10:48:47 PM
Post by: robartsd on April 11, 2020, 08:07:08 AM
Anyone own an ebike? Am interested in getting one however I'm put off by the heavy weights, hopefully as batteries get smaller/ more compact they will get lighter?I wouldn't hold out for much weight savings from battery tech improvements. I din't think there's much room for improvement on energy density of modern lithium based batteries. Improvements on lithium batteries will more likely focus on safety (reduced risk of starting fires) and cost.
Post by: BDWW on April 11, 2020, 12:23:11 PM
Anyone own an ebike? Am interested in getting one however I'm put off by the heavy weights, hopefully as batteries get smaller/ more compact they will get lighter?I wouldn't hold out for much weight savings from battery tech improvements. I din't think there's much room for improvement on energy density of modern lithium based batteries. Improvements on lithium batteries will more likely focus on safety (reduced risk of starting fires) and cost.
The weight of lithium based battery has been in decline, but it's just been nullified by increasing energy density. i.e. the same 18650 battery holds more power than before but it just results in more overall energy (range).
There's plenty of charts showing the wh/kg increasing fairly steadily.
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Development-of-lithium-batteries-during-the-period-of-1970-2015-showing-the-cost-blue_fig6_284929881
Post by: robartsd on April 13, 2020, 09:46:11 AM
The weight of lithium based battery has been in decline, but it's just been nullified by increasing energy density. i.e. the same 18650 battery holds more power than before but it just results in more overall energy (range).That is impressive. Do you have information on advancements made in the last 5 years?
There's plenty of charts showing the wh/kg increasing fairly steadily.
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Development-of-lithium-batteries-during-the-period-of-1970-2015-showing-the-cost-blue_fig6_284929881
Post by: nereo on April 13, 2020, 10:41:07 AM
Sure, eBikes are heavy sumbitches, but a large part of that is the motor and the substantially beefier frame that holds the motor and can handle the torque. Higher energy-density batteries will help, but most eBike batteries currently ~5-8 lbs. So suppose we can lighten the battery by a whopping 30% — that’s going to be a weight savings of just a pound or so.... on a rig that will still weigh 40-60lbs. So a weight-savings of 2% or less on the entire bike, and probably 0.5% on the total bike-plus-rider.
Yeah, yeah, ounces and grams matter on road bikes (disclaimer: Ive done my share of road races)... but eBikes aren’t that.
Post by: robartsd on April 15, 2020, 08:40:56 AM
The heaviest component of any bicycle is always the rider.I agree, that's why I haven't been concerned about the weight of my bike as long as I can easily lift it with one arm.
Sure, eBikes are heavy sumbitches, but a large part of that is the motor and the substantially beefier frame that holds the motor and can handle the torque. Higher energy-density batteries will help, but most eBike batteries currently ~5-8 lbs. So suppose we can lighten the battery by a whopping 30% — that’s going to be a weight savings of just a pound or so.... on a rig that will still weigh 40-60lbs. So a weight-savings of 2% or less on the entire bike, and probably 0.5% on the total bike-plus-rider.
Yeah, yeah, ounces and grams matter on road bikes (disclaimer: Ive done my share of road races)... but eBikes aren’t that.
Post by: ChpBstrd on April 15, 2020, 10:19:27 AM
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/fantomds-eagle-sx-pro-full-suspension.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/fantomds-eagle-sx-pro-full-suspension.htm)
Post by: nereo on April 15, 2020, 11:02:48 AM
Would someone please talk me out of buying this? I don't need to spend $1200, but damn that's a deal.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/fantomds-eagle-sx-pro-full-suspension.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/fantomds-eagle-sx-pro-full-suspension.htm)
That's a sexy bike. In terms of talking you out of it... I mean stalk CL and I've seen better speced MBs around the $1k mark, but obviously used and you have to wait for your size to come around...
Post by: GuitarStv on April 15, 2020, 12:42:30 PM
Post by: FIRE2b on May 27, 2020, 03:32:23 PM
I want something that can handle snow and rain (southwest ontario), and is pretty durable, but above all cost effective, and advice?
Post by: mspym on May 27, 2020, 03:52:50 PM
Looking for advice on buying my first new bike ever. Ive had a bonelli chromoly for ages, and Ive been totally happy with it, but its getting to the end of is life. I ride on average 5km per day, half road and half gentle trails.Might be worthwhile looking at a Surly...
I want something that can handle snow and rain (southwest ontario), and is pretty durable, but above all cost effective, and advice?
Post by: Kmp2 on May 27, 2020, 04:37:41 PM
Post by: GuitarStv on May 27, 2020, 07:33:58 PM
Anything you ride in the snow in southwest Ontario will also be ridden in lots of salt. This is very hard on:
- Cables (brake and shifter)
- Components (Chain, cassette, derailleurs, shifters, pedal axles, brakes, etc.)
- Wheels (axles and bearings, as well as quick releases)
- Frame (I use an aluminum frame for my winter bike due to rust concerns).
You want mudguards, shifters that will work with heavy gloves/mitts on, and the cheapest components you can get away with because they'll just melt away with the salt. You'll probably want different tires on your winter bike too. Even with meticulous cleaning you'll end up replacing almost everything on this bike every 2-4 years.
Then have any nice bike you want for the spring/summer/fall.
Post by: bloodaxe on May 29, 2020, 03:16:52 PM
For a hybrid it's very fast. I commuted to school every day with it. And then every day for my first two years of work.
I'm unfortunately in a situation where I can't bike to work now, but I use it on the weekends to get groceries using a trailer.
Would recommend if you can't find a better deal on craigslist.
Post by: mizzourah2006 on November 11, 2020, 12:07:49 PM
Hardtail MTB: 2018 Specialized Fuse Comp (bought used)
FS MTB: 2018 Rocky Mountain Instinct BC 90 (bought used)
Gravel Bike: 2020 Diamondback Haanjo 5
First purchase was the hardtail as the area I live in has become huge into mountain biking, so I figured I'd dip my toes in and see what it was all about. I absolutely fell in love and about 3 months later I found a great deal on a used FS. I decided to keep the hardtail for a change of pace and in case a friend or someone from out of town came in and needed a bike. This spring (right before Covid) I did a 45 mile greenway ride with a friend. I road the Fuse with 3 inch tires and he had a road bike. That ride convinced me I need something with less friction for longer rides on the greenway, so I found a great deal to get the Haanjo new at about 30% off and it was actually in stock, which basically no bikes were during the pandemic.
I admittedly spend a decent chunk of money on bikes, but it's one of my main hobbies and I probably typically do about 10-15 miles of mountain biking a week and about 10-20 miles of greenway riding per week as well, so IMO it's worth the investment.
Post by: waltworks on November 11, 2020, 01:54:03 PM
-W
Post by: mizzourah2006 on November 11, 2020, 03:03:35 PM
I just decided to own the bike company so I could have all the bikes I want. :)
-W
Very jealous :) I kind of want an E-MTB now, so I can hit the longer trails that I don't have the legs for. I'd love to get in a good 40 miles, but about the best I've done is ~25 split up by lunch and a few hours off.