Replacing a water heater question.

[Psychstache]

So, I'm at the point that I need to replace my water heater. I'm curious how worried I need to be about marching up the size. Based on what I can tell, it looks like the water and gas lines are hooked up using flex connectors (pics attached), so I'm theory I should have some wiggle room in the size of the new water heater, right?

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[nereo]

Well to point out the obvious, you can (and perhaps should, depending on wear) buy new flex-line connectors for installing your new water heater. They aren't very expensive.

Yes, the existing flex connectors will allow you to have some 'wiggle room' with various sized water heaters.  Even if you buy the same sized capacity tank its unlikely that the dimensions and connectors will be in exactly the same spot.

[Sarah Saverdink]

Ditto the previous poster. You can always buy new flex hoses if needed. When we replaced our hot water heater (surprise! leak!), we didn't have any notice and a couple items were hard-plumbed (including the propane connection). My husband and my father-in-law did the whole install and switched over most of the connections to flex lines. Much easier to deal with.

[Psychstache]

Yes, I was planning on replacing the connectors. I just wanted to make sure I didn't need to be overly restrictive about dimensions of the new heater.

Thanks!

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[sokoloff]

I'm not a fan of the flex line for gas connection. I know it's commonly done, but I prefer to see black pipe and a union fitting to make the connections. (Also make sure you have a drip/sediment leg right before the final connection to the appliance. In your photo, that part is cut off, so I can't tell if it's there or not.)

For the water lines, not only do you have the flexibility of the flexible lines, but you also have copper lines, which are very easy to cut and re-fit if you need something different.

When I replaced mine, I worried first about the exhaust stack mating, then got the gas fitted with black pipe, then worried last about the copper piping, as that is roughly in decreasing order of flexibility on the jobsite.

[triangle]

Not sure what kind of heater you plan to install, but don't the new high efficiency units use a different kind of exhaust setup.
Regardless of that, I would mostly worry about buying the proper size replacement and connect accordingly.

[BTDretire]

Plan at least 3 car bike rides to the hardware store.
It's plumbing!

[TomTX]

Other than the one that was replaced under warranty, I've never replaced a water heater with another one the same size.

[BudgetSlasher]

Plan at least 3 car bike rides to the hardware store.
It's plumbing!

Somewhere on my list of rules of DIY below double the cost and triple the original time estimated are:

how poor the outcome is is directly proportional to how many trips to the hardware store it takes to complete.

(I find, for me, multiple trips to the hardware store indicates insufficient planning and too much of a hurry.)

and

when it doubt buy the item and return it if unused and unlikely to use in the future.

(For me and the big box stores, I will be back at the store within the 30-day return window for another project. As a bonus the trip is usually with a set of no mustache co-workers who are making their weekly trip to buy new release movies at the Best Buy next door to the big box.)

[cadillacmike]

These things come is 3 fairly standard sizes, Tall, short, and real short (half height, for closets, etc.) The connection locations are fairly standardized. Within each size there are varying capacities and other ratings. If you are not running out of hot water, get the same # of gallons and you should be fine. If it sometimes runs out, get the next higher capacity in the Same size profile.

I recently had to have mine replaced. The original one was a Tall. About 10 yrs ago (maybe 7 or 8) it leaked and had to be replaced. The Replacement was the short profile (about 10" shorter and 2-3" wider), same # of gallons. I couldn't find what I was looking for in that profile so I sent back to the tall profile (same # of gallons). The only thing that needed re-doing was the cold water inlet. That cost me about $50 extra because a hard line had to be extended.

Some states offer rebates for replacing a Gas water heater. Check Lowes or the homeless despot for details.

[nereo]

Homeless despot?

[Psychstache]

Hah! It would take a pretty bad dictator to be a homeless despot.

[TomTX]

Plan at least 3 car bike rides to the hardware store.
It's plumbing!

Somewhere on my list of rules of DIY below double the cost and triple the original time estimated are:

how poor the outcome is is directly proportional to how many trips to the hardware store it takes to complete.

(I find, for me, multiple trips to the hardware store indicates insufficient planning and too much of a hurry.)

and

when it doubt buy the item and return it if unused and unlikely to use in the future.

(For me and the big box stores, I will be back at the store within the 30-day return window for another project. As a bonus the trip is usually with a set of no mustache co-workers who are making their weekly trip to buy new release movies at the Best Buy next door to the big box.)

I find no correlation between number of trips and ultimate outcome.

Especially with plumbing. There are just too many damn similar threads/couplings/pieces/whatever.

[cadillacmike]

Homeless despot?

It's my friend and my nickname for the place. Like carajos for carrabbas, pendejo for paneras, etc.

[LPG]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here: You have a 1/2 inch natural gas line. Don't try to get a high capacity tankless water heater, as they typically require 3/4 inch gas supply. Storage tanks should be fine.

[Psychstache]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here: You have a 1/2 inch natural gas line. Don't try to get a high capacity tankless water heater, as they typically require 3/4 inch gas supply. Storage tanks should be fine.

Thanks! This isn't a forever house, so we were gonna stick with the cheap storage heater that will fit in the space.

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