Project:
Refurbish, and retrofit a cast iron wood stove fireplace insert into a 70 yr old masonry wood burning fireplace.
Step 1:Removed existing fireplace doors - brushed brass & glass with a steel mesh 'curtain', and listed for sale on CL.
The unit is in good shape, and came out easily after loosening the adjustable attachment brackets, and slicing away some caulk.
Cleaned up the fireplace - will eventually purchase a drill attachment chimney sweeper tool ($50) to clean the masonry chimney.
Step 2: I bought a ~30 year old "Country" brand wood stove insert (made in Auburn, WA) from CraigsList for $250. A comparable 'new' stove costs ~$1.5K.
It came with:
* soot / grime blackened glass doors. Cleaned with vinegar, steel wool & elbow grease.
* broken electrical blower fan. Re-connected a wire, and it works. Spot paint with high-temp black paint, and good to go.
* 15-feet of 8" steel flex chimney liner (plan is to clean this up and re-sell on CL).
* 15 (of 19) cracked/broken fire bricks in the liner
Loading / unloading / moving the stove was hard - VERY heavy. Removing the broken fire bricks at the seller's house wasn't practical.
Moved the stove with the bricks in place - won't ever try THAT again... But having three available young men (me + 2 sons) did the trick.
Step 3:
Removed all old fire bricks, and shop-vac'd the hell out of the stove.
Purchased 19 new replacement bricks ($50) at the local hardware store.
(New fire bricks will be the LAST thing to go back in.)
Step 4:Prepare the fireplace & chimney for the insert.
This is the biggest job. The attached picture shows the plan:
* Purchase new 6" steel flex liner + insulation (chimney is too small for the 8" pipe that came with the stove).
* Purchase steel chimney cap & spark arrestor.
* Purchase
catalytic combustor + 6" x 24"
steel liner to form "catalytic damper" (will need to find a friend with a welder to help here)
[trying to replicate
this - for half the $205 don't need a fancypants handle - this will be enclosed behind a wall]
* Cement, and high-temp caulk things together to assure no air leaks.
* Cut away firebox steel & masonry to make room for 6" steel flex liner(i.e. 'retrofit' - diagram attached).
* Trim 1" of tile on either side of fireplace opening to clear room for insert.
* Trim tile + masonry above stove insert to allow attachment of chimney liner / flue assembly to stove (with stove cement).
NOTE: steel stove surround (included) will cover the trimmed fireplace face tiles, and front cutout for flue attachment.
* Purchase chimney sweep drill attachment, and clean creosote from the chimney liner. (also clean out the 8" flex pipe prior to sale)
Skil saw + masonry blade, and angle grinder + steel cutting wheel, earplugs, respirator and generous use of plastic masking & tape are the main tools.
It will be loud & dirty work, but steel & brick doesn't cut itself.
Step 5: Manufacture an external handle to engage / disengage catalytic combustor ring 'damper' within the flue.
Assemble flue liner components, making sure to insulate liner, and seal all connections with high temp caulk or cement.
Step 6:Slide stove insert into position.
Attach flue assembly, and allow 24 hours for connection cement/caulk to cure.
Route external 'damper' handle.
Install new fire bricks in stove insert.
Perform test-burn / check for smoke leaks & clean roof exhaust.
Step 7: Stuff insulation in any front cracks, caulk, and install steel face plates.
Install repainted blower.
Start chopping wood for next winter.
Comments? Ideas? Face punches?