What type of nail gun for wooden fence slats?

[The Money Monk]

While I have used nail guns before, I don't have a ton of experience with all the different kinds. which would be best for attaching the 1/2" slats? A frame nailer seems a bit too heavy duty, so I'm assuming either a brad nailer or some kind of finish nailer?

[waffle]

I wouldn't use a brad or finish nailer. the heads of the nails are too small and over time the boards will pull off of them. If you are going with nails then use a shorter framing nail or a longer roofing type nail. I would recommend using screws though. It will take longer to build but should last longer

[The Money Monk]

I wouldn't use a brad or finish nailer. the heads of the nails are too small and over time the boards will pull off of them. If you are going with nails then use a shorter framing nail or a longer roofing type nail. I would recommend using screws though. It will take longer to build but should last longer

Because of dogs in yards on both sides of the fence, I need to get the fence up quickly. Perhaps I will tack up all the boards with one or 2 hits from a brad nailer and then go back and screw them all to make it sturdy.

[Spork]

Apart from the nail head: the  nail material matters here, too.   What wood species and what finish are you going to have on the fence?

If it is an unpainted cedar, you will likely want to spring for a stainless steel nail (if nailing) or a coated screw (if screwing).  In fact, even with those fasteners, you will want to shop around.  This is where you probably are going to want to spend a little more money on a higher quality fastener.

Uncoated or galvanized nalls/screws will react with cedar (and some other species) and leave black streaky marks.

Now... if you're painting it... it may not matter as much.

[The Money Monk]

Apart from the nail head: the  nail material matters here, too.   What wood species and what finish are you going to have on the fence?

If it is an unpainted cedar, you will likely want to spring for a stainless steel nail (if nailing) or a coated screw (if screwing).  In fact, even with those fasteners, you will want to shop around.  This is where you probably are going to want to spend a little more money on a higher quality fastener.

Uncoated or galvanized nalls/screws will react with cedar (and some other species) and leave black streaky marks.

Now... if you're painting it... it may not matter as much.

Thanks for the input.

I will be using what they sell at lowes locally, which i believe is just pressure treated pine.

[worms]

I'm voting for the screw lobby!

If you screw the planks, they can be reused once the uprights have rotted in ten to fifteen years time. If you nail 'em, you never get them back off without splitting most of them.

[Greg]

There's a dedicated siding/fencing nail gun that uses coil nails, you can rent one and usually get the nails there too, and return the coils you don't use.  That's how it works where I rent tools.  Hot dipped galvanized siding fencing nails are pretty standard.

[zolotiyeruki]

You might also be able to get screws on a coil, which would greatly speed the construction process.

Amen to the "get coated screws" comment as well.

[sleepyguy]

I've done about 4 fences in my life... always with coated screws... zero issues.  no "popping" over time as well with neighbours I see.  Also if you can afford it, 6x6 rules... no sagging and all that crap with 4x4s.