Wall mounting TV to code without installing new outlet

[Jane]

I found this kit on Amazon that looks like it would work, but it seems ridiculously expensive for what it is.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Solutions-ONE-PRO-6-Management-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00HIYAFR4/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=05C6RH035RE69ZAT5TP0

Tips on less expensive ways to do this? I'm fairly handy in general, but not great with electrical, so looking for something that hopefully doesn't require running new wiring.

Or does anyone have insight on how important it is to do this "to code" and if I simply cut a hole and ran the cables down the wall is it really a fire hazard?

[Greg]

Where I live, the only code rules that apply are that the AC power and low-voltage data cables must not be in the same conduit or wall box.  Other than that, it's generally a bad idea to add extension cords.

A cheaper way to do this would be to route your data cables through the wall, and use 1 or 2-gang boxes top and bottom to "terminate" the cables, and use a simple oven outlet cover plate at each box for a tidy look. 

For the power, if you want to add an outlet behind the screen, you can do the same thing but will want to ensure the 14-2 or whatever you use is apart from the data cables, and also terminate the wires in a box.  While it's best to mount a new box for the power to a stud, you can use a "remodel box" as well between studs.  Any AC wiring junctions/splices need to be in a box and accessible, no hiding wire splices in the wall.

[Jane]

Where I live, the only code rules that apply are that the AC power and low-voltage data cables must not be in the same conduit or wall box.  Other than that, it's generally a bad idea to add extension cords.

A cheaper way to do this would be to route your data cables through the wall, and use 1 or 2-gang boxes top and bottom to "terminate" the cables, and use a simple oven outlet cover plate at each box for a tidy look. 

For the power, if you want to add an outlet behind the screen, you can do the same thing but will want to ensure the 14-2 or whatever you use is apart from the data cables, and also terminate the wires in a box.  While it's best to mount a new box for the power to a stud, you can use a "remodel box" as well between studs.  Any AC wiring junctions/splices need to be in a box and accessible, no hiding wire splices in the wall.

I was hoping to get this done without a new power outlet since my knowledge of electrical work is very limited. Also further complicating things is that the existing outlets are a couple studs away from where we would be putting the new outlet. From my understanding, does that present a bigger challenge? And even further complicating things, I have a newborn and practically no time to mess around with this stuff right now, but the TV is right in front of the open area on the floor where he plays, and I worry about it tipping over onto him which is the reason we are mounting it.

[Greg]

Yes, if the outlet you intend to use is on the other side of the wall stud(s), it gets more difficult.  A possible solution is just plugging it in where you currently (ha!) have an outlet.  If you're worried about kiddo access, install one of those outdoor outlet covers that snaps shut.

If it were me I'd just use the cord etc. to plug in where possible, if that cord is too short use a power strip to extend it, and hang the strip near the screen and use it to power your media players or what have you, this way you can power them off for sure and prevent unwanted electric draw.

[bzzzt]

Tips on less expensive ways to do this? I'm fairly handy in general, but not great with electrical, so looking for something that hopefully doesn't require running new wiring.

Or does anyone have insight on how important it is to do this "to code" and if I simply cut a hole and ran the cables down the wall is it really a fire hazard?

This kit comes with the new wiring, so it's still required. If you're trying to hang a TV and it's not in the same stud space as the outlet, you're going to have use a flex bit/extension to get over to the correct stud space. Also, the Romex in this kit will be too short.

If you aren't handy with electrical, you might be better off hiring someone. Good installers should be able to fish the wall without having to do drywall work. Crappy ones will tell you that they'll have to cut access holes in the wall that you will have to patch afterwards, but may be cheaper.

Without seeing it, my price would be $300 minimum and up to $500, materials included.

[burly]

Here's what I did...

There is an outlet behind my TV stand... I purchased these two items. The HDMI and other low voltage cables flow right through the wall... No 'old work' box required.

It is not too difficult to run a cord from the existing outlet to the new outlet (daisy chain).  You can only do this if it is not already daisy chained.  An outlet usually has 4 screws (2 each side) you flip the power off, and match the colors on each side and likewise for the top part.. and boom presto - you get this (see picture).


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4EAL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


P.S. I'd also recommend these for low profile mounting:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-HDMI-Port-Saver-Female/dp/B001K38Z2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1428284339&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+90


disclaimer: I would recommend watching a bunch of youtube videos before attempting.. Basic electrical isn't difficult, you just need to read up a little. I personally don't like the idea of an extension cord behind my wall.. 12/2 wire is to code.

One more edit..

I also would recommend this - http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428284855&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+checker

This will tell you if it's wired correctly.

[Jane]

Here's what I did...

There is an outlet behind my TV stand... I purchased these two items. The HDMI and other low voltage cables flow right through the wall... No 'old work' box required.

It is not too difficult to run a cord from the existing outlet to the new outlet (daisy chain).  You can only do this if it is not already daisy chained.  An outlet usually has 4 screws (2 each side) you flip the power off, and match the colors on each side and likewise for the top part.. and boom presto - you get this (see picture).


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4EAL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


P.S. I'd also recommend these for low profile mounting:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-HDMI-Port-Saver-Female/dp/B001K38Z2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1428284339&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+90


disclaimer: I would recommend watching a bunch of youtube videos before attempting.. Basic electrical isn't difficult, you just need to read up a little. I personally don't like the idea of an extension cord behind my wall.. 12/2 wire is to code.

One more edit..

I also would recommend this - http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428284855&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+checker

This will tell you if it's wired correctly.

Thanks, this is great info. I've done basic electrical work such as replacing light fixtures and switches - essentially tasks requiring taking old thing off and putting new thing on in the same way. Really appreciate all of the links, and especially glad you pointed me to the receptacle tester.

[bzzzt]

It is not too difficult to run a cord from the existing outlet to the new outlet (daisy chain).  You can only do this if it is not already daisy chained.  An outlet usually has 4 screws (2 each side) you flip the power off, and match the colors on each side and likewise for the top part.. and boom presto - you get this (see picture).

Nope, you don't do that. That leads to this:


This is the correct way (pig tailing):
http://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/

I don't like the stab receptacles for the same reason, but they're UL listed. If you're going to get back wire devices, I prefer the ones where the screws tighten a clamp on the wire. Using the device as a splice is not recommended.

Devices wired in parallel cause less problems than devices wired in series. I am an Electrician.

[burly]

It is not too difficult to run a cord from the existing outlet to the new outlet (daisy chain).  You can only do this if it is not already daisy chained.  An outlet usually has 4 screws (2 each side) you flip the power off, and match the colors on each side and likewise for the top part.. and boom presto - you get this (see picture).

Nope, you don't do that. That leads to this:


This is the correct way (pig tailing):
http://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/

I don't like the stab receptacles for the same reason, but they're UL listed. If you're going to get back wire devices, I prefer the ones where the screws tighten a clamp on the wire. Using the device as a splice is not recommended.

Devices wired in parallel cause less problems than devices wired in series. I am an Electrician.

Thanks for the link... I definitely agree wired in series is better than parallel. Just curious how would using the outlet as the splice would cause that picture? I am currently finishing my basement and used the outlet types you mentioned that have the clamps and there's no copper rearing its head out...

I'm assuming if the outlet fails it could cause a short?

Also, adding all those wire nuts... that is sure a tight box... any suggestions?