The Money Mustache Community
Learning, Sharing, and Teaching => Do it Yourself Discussion! => Topic started by: Mr Mark on August 21, 2013, 12:58:32 PM
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I'm remoding our house, and in prepping and painting the outside the contractors used about 100 tubes of caulk. The house is weatherboard siding, wood, with mostly old windows.
We live by a road with some traffic, and I'd gotten used to hearing the cars. No big deal.
But after the painters sealed up the outside properly using indeed about 100 tubes of high tech caulk, the drop in sound is unbelievable. Wow. All those tiny gaps between the wooden siding were mostly weather proof, but clearly the sound waves were sneaking their way through the wall via all these tiny gaps. Beforehand, I'm sure i wouldnt have bothered using as much caulk as they did.
With the same caulking on the inside, the effect on sound and insulation is really great. For our 1750 square ft bungalow, that's around, say, $180 in caulk. Relatively easy to do yourself.
Highly recommended.
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Sounds like it really worked out well for you!
When working with caulk, I definitely recommend doing it yourself rather than hiring someone else. It can actually be a lot of fun once you learn the ins and outs of it.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to know beforehand exactly how much caulk to use though. You don't want too little caulk, or the job will be left unfinished, but too much caulk can painfully stretch your budget. Any advice?
I've definitely also noticed that liberal use of caulk around my house can lead to a much improved sound environment. My wife in particular was quite impressed by the most recent caulking job.
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OK. I probably need to grow up... but make sure to read the title of the thread out loud.
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I'm considering going crazy with caulk. I've already sealed a few holes, but I've got a large sliding glass door that leaks air. The frame looks to be a custom aluminum job, with gaps that used to have felt or something between various structures.
My question is this: is it ok to fill the gaps with caulk? I'm wondering why they originally used felt not caulk -- maybe because its like 60 years old??
What kind should I use? I have some silicon stuff that is white but dries clear. Is this ok? I have no idea... I don't want to damage the aluminum.
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These guys used Sherman Williams nr4000, and insisted it was the best stuff. About $1 per tube. Buy it in 16 packs.
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OK. I probably need to grow up... but make sure to read the title of the thread out loud.
+1
Heh.
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OK. I probably need to grow up... but make sure to read the title of the thread out loud.
I was going to make a joke about the wife wanting more caulk in our house. Guess you beat me to it :)
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OK. I probably need to grow up... but make sure to read the title of the thread out loud.
. . . are you suggesting there's something amusing about loving the caulk?
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I'm considering going crazy with caulk. I've already sealed a few holes, but I've got a large sliding glass door that leaks air. The frame looks to be a custom aluminum job, with gaps that used to have felt or something between various structures.
My question is this: is it ok to fill the gaps with caulk? I'm wondering why they originally used felt not caulk -- maybe because its like 60 years old??
What kind should I use? I have some silicon stuff that is white but dries clear. Is this ok? I have no idea... I don't want to damage the aluminum.
Guessing here... but if it is custom and 60 years old, it is probably window glazing.
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OK. I probably need to grow up... but make sure to read the title of the thread out loud.
I was going to make a joke about the wife wanting more caulk in our house. Guess you beat me to it :)
It's amazing how many jokes you can make when using lots of caulk....
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The frame looks to be a custom aluminum job, with gaps that used to have felt or something between various structures.
My question is this: is it ok to fill the gaps with caulk? I'm wondering why they originally used felt not caulk -- maybe because its like 60 years old??
What kind should I use? I have some silicon stuff that is white but dries clear. Is this ok? I have no idea... I don't want to damage the aluminum.
A long time ago, caulking wasn't available like it is now. Also, gaps were good for long runs of wood siding, to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction. This is why most caulking for siding and windows is flexible, it can usually handle the stretching and compressing as wood changes with the seasons.
A long time ago, houses weren't sealed up as is the fashion now, but breathed. So if you start sealing it up, be sure your bath and kitchen fans are good enough to provide good exhaust, and also that you have a source for fresh air intake, which will help the exhaust fans work.
I would avoid silicone for interior and exterior places in general, though it is good for plumbing applications like sink strainers. Silicone will resist acrylic paint, and is difficult to clean off when you want to paint. Silicone caulk is also usually RTV meaning, room temperature vulcanizing, so it dries/cures at room temperature. To accomplish this it often contains acetic acid, which will attack the aluminum and cause corrosion.
So I would recommend acrylic or polyurethane. Polyurethane is really great, and is flexible, and paintable, but harder to clean and tool than acrylic. For polyurethane, I try to apply it in a way to not require tooling.
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I think the advances in chemistry and intense competition have meant modern caulk is pretty amazing stuff. I find it ridiculously cheap.
Also, avoid silicone totally.
If the gap is too large, prefill with a wood strip, or even that expanding foam stuff, but be careful, it really expands and sticks to every damn thing.
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Thanks for the post. We have a neighbor across our backyard with a dog. The dog LOVES to bark every freakin night around 3:00pm or so. Of course our bedroom faces their house, but their master bedroom is on the other side so they claim to never hear the dog barking. I've done some sound proofing inside but never thought about sealing up the outside. I think about $10 worth of caulk should do it.
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^ cool! You have to get every crack and gap. Be merciless!
On the dog, we had a similar situation, 3 f$#king dogs in a small back area in a big kennel. We bought a sonic dog bark controller that looked like a bird house, and put it in a tree 2 yards from the fence set to max power. Within 3 days the dogs had stopped barking.
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This whole thread is... winning.
(http://www.soulseeds.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/never-grow-up-300x225.jpg)
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The frame looks to be a custom aluminum job, with gaps that used to have felt or something between various structures.
My question is this: is it ok to fill the gaps with caulk? I'm wondering why they originally used felt not caulk -- maybe because its like 60 years old??
What kind should I use? I have some silicon stuff that is white but dries clear. Is this ok? I have no idea... I don't want to damage the aluminum.
A long time ago, caulking wasn't available like it is now. Also, gaps were good for long runs of wood siding, to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction. This is why most caulking for siding and windows is flexible, it can usually handle the stretching and compressing as wood changes with the seasons.
A long time ago, houses weren't sealed up as is the fashion now, but breathed. So if you start sealing it up, be sure your bath and kitchen fans are good enough to provide good exhaust, and also that you have a source for fresh air intake, which will help the exhaust fans work.
I would avoid silicone for interior and exterior places in general, though it is good for plumbing applications like sink strainers. Silicone will resist acrylic paint, and is difficult to clean off when you want to paint. Silicone caulk is also usually RTV meaning, room temperature vulcanizing, so it dries/cures at room temperature. To accomplish this it often contains acetic acid, which will attack the aluminum and cause corrosion.
So I would recommend acrylic or polyurethane. Polyurethane is really great, and is flexible, and paintable, but harder to clean and tool than acrylic. For polyurethane, I try to apply it in a way to not require tooling.
Cool, thanks for the advice. I'll probably try some vinyl...
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Sounds like it really worked out well for you!
When working with caulk, I definitely recommend doing it yourself rather than hiring someone else. It can actually be a lot of fun once you learn the ins and outs of it.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to know beforehand exactly how much caulk to use though. You don't want too little caulk, or the job will be left unfinished, but too much caulk can painfully stretch your budget. Any advice?
I've definitely also noticed that liberal use of caulk around my house can lead to a much improved sound environment. My wife in particular was quite impressed by the most recent caulking job.
Subtle, and genius.
This is the best post on this forum all week, and nobody else even seemed to notice.
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Sounds like it really worked out well for you!
When working with caulk, I definitely recommend doing it yourself rather than hiring someone else. It can actually be a lot of fun once you learn the ins and outs of it.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to know beforehand exactly how much caulk to use though. You don't want too little caulk, or the job will be left unfinished, but too much caulk can painfully stretch your budget. Any advice?
I've definitely also noticed that liberal use of caulk around my house can lead to a much improved sound environment. My wife in particular was quite impressed by the most recent caulking job.
Subtle, and genius.
This is the best post on this forum all week, and nobody else even seemed to notice.
Damn.
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Sounds like it really worked out well for you!
When working with caulk, I definitely recommend doing it yourself rather than hiring someone else. It can actually be a lot of fun once you learn the ins and outs of it.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to know beforehand exactly how much caulk to use though. You don't want too little caulk, or the job will be left unfinished, but too much caulk can painfully stretch your budget. Any advice?
I've definitely also noticed that liberal use of caulk around my house can lead to a much improved sound environment. My wife in particular was quite impressed by the most recent caulking job.
Subtle, and genius.
This is the best post on this forum all week, and nobody else even seemed to notice.
Aw thanks, you just made my night. And here I was, worried it might just slip by completely unnoticed! :)
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And *they* say we have a problem with Forum Tone...
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*/end beautiful prose on caulk
Also, avoid silicone totally.
How can you find out if a caulk is silicone based? I'm wanting to use this product (http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=20) to seal the windows and patio doors at my apartment, both to reduce the sound of the interstate nearby and keep the bugs out. However, I need it to be removable on move-out, and this is one of the only I've found that fit that requirement.
begin discussion of prose on caulk */
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Thanks for the post. We have a neighbor across our backyard with a dog. The dog LOVES to bark every freakin night around 3:00pm or so. Of course our bedroom faces their house, but their master bedroom is on the other side so they claim to never hear the dog barking. I've done some sound proofing inside but never thought about sealing up the outside. I think about $10 worth of caulk should do it.
You are talking about sealing the outside of your house, right? Not the outside of the dog? ;)
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How can you find out if a caulk is silicone based? I'm wanting to use this product to seal the windows and patio doors at my apartment, both to reduce the sound of the interstate nearby and keep the bugs out. However, I need it to be removable on move-out, and this is one of the only I've found that fit that requirement.
At that link you can find a link to the MSDS (material safety data sheet) that explains it's naptha solvent-based. Goes on a bit smelly (and with explosive fumes, yay!) but otherwise harmless. Silicone smells like vinegar and is generally very hard to remove. Follow instructions.
I need more coffee before I can fully convert the above to a double-entendre.
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Awesome, thanks! Would that be the best solution to a temporary/removable sealing job?
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And *they* say we have a problem with Forum Tone...
I have tears in my eyes and my coworkers think I'm insane....
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Would that be the best solution to a temporary/removable sealing job?
I haven't used that particular stuff before, but have used this kind of stuff:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1386305&KPID=1140211&cagpspn=pla&CAWELAID=109375862
Basically strips (referred to as "ropes") of soft clay-like putty that doesn't fully dry, and so can be peeled off usually. It will sometimes take with it loose paint, but is pretty easy to install.
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I came in here expecting shenanigans based on the thread title. You guys did not disappoint.
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Thanks for the post. We have a neighbor across our backyard with a dog. The dog LOVES to bark every freakin night around 3:00pm or so. Of course our bedroom faces their house, but their master bedroom is on the other side so they claim to never hear the dog barking. I've done some sound proofing inside but never thought about sealing up the outside. I think about $10 worth of caulk should do it.
You are talking about sealing the outside of your house, right? Not the outside of the dog? ;)
Ummm....maybe! :-)
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I love working with caulk! It can be labor intensive, but used correctly it can really make the difference. I used caulk all over my bathroom. The cleanup work can be problematic, but the effort is well worth it. Penis.
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Follow up.
I did go out and caulk the seams in my siding that was right outside our bedroom. The bedroom is noticeably quieter! This might have voided the warranty on the siding but it's 20 years old anyway.
Well worth the time and effort.