Author Topic: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)  (Read 12605 times)

jnw

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Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« on: February 19, 2023, 07:45:14 AM »
I knew nothing about anode rods until a week ago -- thanks to this forum here.

The water heater was installed brand new just before we moved in.  It's 9 years and 5 months old.

I figured it'd last at least 15-20 years but I am reading the average life span of a water heater is 8 to 12 years.

Should I just replace the water heater in a couple years and not even bother trying to take out the original anode rod?  I wonder if we could even work it loose.   (We do have a camera snake about 8 feet long so we could see inside it after we drain it.)  (Worried about twisting gas / water lines etc trying to break the anode rod free... I suppose we could strap it to the wall somehow first.)

In the future, I'd replace the anode rod like every 3 years to extend the life of the water heater.  I heard that if you replace the anode rod often, the water heater can last like 30 years.  Anode rods are only like $30 to $40 I hear -- totally worth it.

Amazing after 50 years of my life I've never heard about this before.   Seems intentional.  They want to sell more water heaters.. what a waste.

EDIT: we have hard city water.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2023, 07:50:54 AM by JenniferW »

GilesMM

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2023, 08:59:58 AM »
Do you have the headroom to install the anode?  It takes 5-6 feet above the water heater.  If you can get the existing one out, have a look at it and see how it is doing.  If it needs replacing, replace it.


Your water heater could last a long time.  I have one from 1972 running like a champ (knock on wood).

jnw

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2023, 09:13:25 AM »
Do you have the headroom to install the anode?  It takes 5-6 feet above the water heater.  If you can get the existing one out, have a look at it and see how it is doing.  If it needs replacing, replace it.


Your water heater could last a long time.  I have one from 1972 running like a champ (knock on wood).

Yeah we have the headroom. It's installed 2/3rds of the way down from the ceiling of the garage to 1/3rd of the way up into the attic -- it has a custom cabinet with door in the garage, located above the washing machine. It's located under the peak of the roof.. so yeah we have the headroom.  We could just hack saw it into two sections as well, if we have to, to take it out.  I imagine we'll get one of those flexible nun chuck like anode rods to replace it.

We'll give it a shot.. try and strap down the water heater and turn that anode rod. 
« Last Edit: February 19, 2023, 09:15:47 AM by JenniferW »

bacchi

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2023, 09:23:08 AM »
My WH have also lasted much longer than 10-12 years. It really depends on your water.

Sibley

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2023, 09:40:21 AM »
Be aware that at nearly 10 years old you may already have significant corrosion in the tank. Attempting to replace the anode rod could result in needing to replace the water heater.

sonofsven

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2023, 05:15:55 PM »
I would try to get the anode out, and also drain the tank and possibly clean out some gunky calcium deposits that may have formed inside. It will likely be fine with some TLC - have you noticed any issues with it? You do run the risk of breaking something of course, but it's not super hard. The anode may be corroded and really tight though.

I've moved them out to a porch and strapped them to a post with multiple compression straps and used a long pipe on a wrench to break the anode free, and used Kroil or WD-40 on the threads as well. I don't like working in cramped conditions so I avoid it if possible. The places you find water heaters installed...

I like to change out the crappy plastic drain valve and replace it with a brass one. When it's out I flush the heater again and check for calcium sediment. You can use a bent wire to get a lot of it, with more water flushing.  Then install the new valve. It seems like a lot of water heater leaks start with those crappy plastic valves anyway. You can do a vinegar soak for a few hours and flush it again if you have a lot of sediment.

Here's a good write-up from a plumber on anodes: https://phplumbingheating.com/how-long-will-your-water-heater-last-your-anode-rods-will-tell-us/

Another thing to check is the dip tube, it's on the cold water (intake) side. It's a threaded in plastic tube, essentially, that directs the cold water goes to the bottom of the tank  and doesn't immediately mix it with the hot water ready to leave the tank. If it's not broken, it's working.



snic

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2023, 07:16:28 PM »
Presumably water heaters with stainless steel tanks last much longer because they don't corrode. But few people buy them because they cost considerably more and most people know there's a pretty good chance they won't still be living there 10 years later when the WH starts to go.

To answer your question "should I just replace it," - well, removing the anode rod is a huge PITA. I think sonofsven is on the right track with moving the tank outdoors, strapping it down and using a massive cheater bar, during which you might end up breaking something and having to replace the whole thing anyway. When I was considering replacing the anode rod in the tank in the house I bought a couple of years ago, after I learned about the process I said screw it, I'll deal with it when it starts to leak. In the previous house, the tank was 19 years old and still dry as a bone - although it was starting to corrode pretty severely on top and I replaced it before putting the house on the market. Bottom line is that I don't see much point in preemptively replacing the water heater until you see signs of leakage or corrosion. Just keep an eye on it.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2023, 07:23:54 PM by snic »

jnw

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2023, 01:49:33 AM »
Looking at exterior of the water heater it looks as new as the day it was installed, all glossy no rust.

It’s sitting in a drip collection / overflow pan or w/e.  Should I just put my finger in it to feel any moisture as part of monthly home maintenance?  Would I be able to detect any leaks like that w/o it eventually bursting?

It’s only the two of us living here and we only take showers like three times per week. Should the water heater be in better condition inside because of this?  As opposed to a family living here?  Does the rod immediately neutralize any hardness in the tank at a given time?

Maybe this water heater will last us another 10 years without ever changing the rod?  I am worried about causing damage to tank or plumbing trying to take out riod.  I don’t see us removing it first as there are water and gas lines hooked up to it; we’ll probably hire a plumber to replace it  when it needs it as oppposed to replacing ourselves.

Paper Chaser

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2023, 04:57:59 AM »
Water heaters have a short average life because most people buy the cheapest possible unit and then never maintain it.
Just maintain it as well as you can and replace parts as needed.

jnw

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2023, 06:34:48 AM »
Water heaters have a short average life because most people buy the cheapest possible unit and then never maintain it.
Just maintain it as well as you can and replace parts as needed.

Yeah I know this now. I didn't know about the anode rode until a week ago.  A new unit, I would replace the rod every 3 years.  We did drain our old unit every year but didn't know about the rod.   We don't buy the cheapest possible unit either.

jnw

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2023, 01:22:22 PM »
Say the water heater does go out.. we should be able to replace ourselves?  Maybe for under $800?  I think the install 10 years ago was like $1350 for everything.

My BF has swapped engines and transmissions between two toyotas in the recent past, and has replaced a lot of suspension etc.  He just goes by the Toyota shop manual for the car and is mechanically inclined.   With that said, I imagine he wouldn't have any problem replacing the water heater himself? I could help lift when needed.   It doesn't seem so complicated like an HVAC system or roof replacement is.

GilesMM

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2023, 01:40:21 PM »
If it is gas powered there is gas plumbing involved which can get tricky if the new unit is different from the old one. Same for water plumbing although easier these days with flexible tubing. YouTube is your friend for this.

ChickenStash

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2023, 02:37:21 PM »
I've replaced a gas and electric water heater and neither was particularly difficult but there's always some screwing around needed to adapt the new unit to the old plumbing. You might have to buy some plumbing-specific tools like pipe cutters or a propane torch to solder copper lines if you don't have them already. The tools and supplies are pretty cheap at any big box store.

My gas WH went 2 years ago or so. I think it was ~470 for the unit and maybe another 100 for supplies like a pan, copper and black pipe, and flex connections. I found the leak on a Saturday afternoon and I installed the new one myself and had it working by Sunday afternoon.

snic

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2023, 06:25:58 PM »
Nowadays you don't even need to solder pipe. You can buy Sharkbite fittings and as long as you are scrupulously careful to follow the instructions (clean and debur the pipe properly, etc), they won't leak. Get a simple pipe cutter, figure out what kind of pipe and Sharkbite fittings you need, and you won't need much else to replace an electric WH. Gas is a different animal - if you have a gas shut-off valve in good condition and a flexible gas line from there to the WH, you can replace the flex line yourself (again, follow instructions scrupulously). But if you need to extend iron gas pipe, that's something probably best left to a plumber.

NorCal

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2023, 09:08:54 PM »
One consideration is whether you want to change your fuel source.  The new heat-pump water heaters are significantly more efficient and have a pretty short payback period.  The payback should be less than 5 years for most people (which mostly depends on the complexity of your installation and local utility rebates).

The challenge is that you're not going to get an electrician to wire a new circuit on the day your water heater fails.  Most people aren't going to wait around a week with no hot water for the wiring.

So you should look at replacing it before it fails if you plan to change the fuel source.  Otherwise, I'd just wait for it to fail. 

Fru-Gal

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2023, 09:27:19 PM »
PTF because I have been meaning to replace the anode on mine.

curious_george

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2023, 05:23:26 AM »
One consideration is whether you want to change your fuel source.  The new heat-pump water heaters are significantly more efficient and have a pretty short payback period.  The payback should be less than 5 years for most people (which mostly depends on the complexity of your installation and local utility rebates).

The challenge is that you're not going to get an electrician to wire a new circuit on the day your water heater fails.  Most people aren't going to wait around a week with no hot water for the wiring.

So you should look at replacing it before it fails if you plan to change the fuel source.  Otherwise, I'd just wait for it to fail.

This post isn't entirely accurate for everyone. Depending on where you live natural gas water heaters can be very economically competitive with heat pump water heaters. You will need to run the calculations yourself based on what you pay for natural gas and electric at your location. You may be surprised. Where I live the running costs are about equal and the natural gas heater is cheaper to buy. I'm sure things are different in California though, so you will just need to run the numbers yourself.

Now - If it is an electric water heater being replaced then yes, the hybrid water heater will win on running cost everyday of the week. But in that case, you don't need a new circuit at all. They use the same 220 circuit of a normal water heater, and have the same wattage heating elements, and can be turned off from hybrid mode and switched to standard mode and will consume an identical amount of electric even.

Outside of this - I highly recommend the heat pump water heaters. I have installed several of these water heaters and have been running a GE Geospring, on heat pump only mode for about 10 years now with a family of six and have had zero problems. They don't make that particular model anymore but there are several other still on the market.

curious_george

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2023, 05:44:25 AM »
Nowadays you don't even need to solder pipe. You can buy Sharkbite fittings and as long as you are scrupulously careful to follow the instructions (clean and debur the pipe properly, etc), they won't leak. Get a simple pipe cutter, figure out what kind of pipe and Sharkbite fittings you need, and you won't need much else to replace an electric WH. Gas is a different animal - if you have a gas shut-off valve in good condition and a flexible gas line from there to the WH, you can replace the flex line yourself (again, follow instructions scrupulously). But if you need to extend iron gas pipe, that's something probably best left to a plumber.

I would be careful with those. I have soldered thousands of copper pipes together with zero leaks or failures.

I used two shark bite fittings on a tight spot and they wound up leaking a few years later. The problem is not the application - I debured and cleaned the pipe properly. The problem is the sharkbites are an inferior solution and the o ring may leak eventually, depending on water pressure and where they are installed exactly.

For connecting a straight pipe to a water heater you're probably fine. Connecting them next to a corner pipe, or under a fixture which can be accessible by your customer, I would not recommend.

Interestingly a lot of plumbers are using ProPress fittings instead of soldering pipes together these days. The insurance costs are way lower for the company. I have never seen one of these fail and they are very easy to install and don't require any sort of skill at all. The tool is a little pricey, but this is what I would recommend for solder less plumbing over a sharkbite connection.

BudgetSlasher

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2023, 05:55:31 AM »
Personally, I would not do replace it just because it is coming up on 10 years old. I ignore almost all of the internet's claimed "lifespans". My experience (including water heaters) is that in reality those devices vastly outlive their so-call lifespans.

So, I would replace the anode and since you have a scope, give it a good look at that time and only replace if their is a reason. If you are really concerned, they do make water heater alarms; basically it goes in the drain pan and detects water, my heat pump water heater has one built in.

I've never met someone who has had a water heater go straight from fine to complete blow out. The damage I've heard of is where the leaking started and wasn't noticed or one that was installed in/above finished space and the drain pan either wasn't plumbed or clogged.

When the time comes to replace the water heater, with the level of mechanical aptitude you mentioned, replacing it should be easily doable. Especially if you are replacing like with like. But as has been mentioned when the time comes the heat pump water heaters can make sense, since your climate is warm enough to have plumbing in the garage I'm betting it really makes sense for you. Always read the instructions carefully, I almost made a mistake installing mine. Mine prohibits soldering near the water heater because there are parts at/near/in the connection that can be damaged by heat.

I have a heat pump water heater and this may be unique to it... but while there is an anode rod which technically can be replaced just like any other, all the documentation says that it not a serviceable part. So replacing it could run afoul of the 10 year warranty.

I know people who swear by the powered anode rods, but I have no experience with them. They do cost multiples of what a regular rod costs, but supposedly it in a one time deal. Initially I though it sounded a bit like snake oil, but now AO Smith makes one. If a water heater OEM sells one perhaps there actually it something to it. Anyways it might be something to look into.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2023, 05:59:34 AM by BudgetSlasher »

sonofsven

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2023, 07:41:03 AM »
The main unfortunate issue with replacement water heaters comes up when you hire it out. If your unit stops working at all, or starts acting up, and you call a plumber, then it often makes financial sense to replace the unit instead of repairing the unit, since you're paying for a service call either way. The same is true for many of the less expensive appliances.
Funny how that works, eh?
I've been installing heat pump water heaters in all my built homes for years because of their efficiency, but for my own home I have the basic gas unit that vents through the roof and uses zero electricity. I love having hot water when the power is out. It is 19 years old, and yes, I do maintain it.

Sibley

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2023, 08:16:41 AM »
Interestingly a lot of plumbers are using ProPress fittings instead of soldering pipes together these days. The insurance costs are way lower for the company. I have never seen one of these fail and they are very easy to install and don't require any sort of skill at all. The tool is a little pricey, but this is what I would recommend for solder less plumbing over a sharkbite connection.

I'm not sure what to think about ProPress. I have it on the water heater currently. But I've also had at least 3 professional plumbers state that they don't like it. This could be natural resistance to new products. I do agree its better than sharkbite connections, and I've never known a plumber to speak well of sharkbite.

I measure in decades. I've been replacing galvanized piping from the 1940s in my house - that's 80 years of function, although what I'm pulling out is most definitely end of life. Copper is longer than that. Cast iron, at least the old stuff, can last 100 years. There's enough history on pex that I'm ok with it in the walls, though I prefer copper for drinking lines.  How long will ProPress last? I'm fine with it on the water heater because the water heater, even with maintenance, isn't going to last 50 years. For now at least, I'll keep it out of the walls or areas that are hard to monitor.

BudgetSlasher

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2023, 09:08:32 AM »
Interestingly a lot of plumbers are using ProPress fittings instead of soldering pipes together these days. The insurance costs are way lower for the company. I have never seen one of these fail and they are very easy to install and don't require any sort of skill at all. The tool is a little pricey, but this is what I would recommend for solder less plumbing over a sharkbite connection.

I'm not sure what to think about ProPress. I have it on the water heater currently. But I've also had at least 3 professional plumbers state that they don't like it. This could be natural resistance to new products. I do agree its better than sharkbite connections, and I've never known a plumber to speak well of sharkbite.

I measure in decades. I've been replacing galvanized piping from the 1940s in my house - that's 80 years of function, although what I'm pulling out is most definitely end of life. Copper is longer than that. Cast iron, at least the old stuff, can last 100 years. There's enough history on pex that I'm ok with it in the walls, though I prefer copper for drinking lines.  How long will ProPress last? I'm fine with it on the water heater because the water heater, even with maintenance, isn't going to last 50 years. For now at least, I'll keep it out of the walls or areas that are hard to monitor.

ProPress isn't really that new. They claim it was introduced in 1989, right about the same time PEX started being using in residential water distribution. The copper press system was patented in Europe back in the 50's.


snic

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #22 on: February 21, 2023, 07:23:13 PM »
Plumbers don't like Sharkbite because (a) they're way easier to use than solder fittings, and there is no barrier to entry as there is for press fittings, so that reduces the value of the plumber's skill, and (b) Sharkbite fittings are expensive relative to conventional fittings, so there is no benefit to the plumber to use them, and (c) many tradespeople are resistant to newfangled ways of doing things until they try them successfully and start to see the benefit - but to them, there is no benefit, so they remain resistant.

I've followed the Sharkbite wars online for a while, and the take from the pro-Sharkbite (or perhaps just less-anti-Sharkbite) crowd is that any fitting can fail, and they're not convinced there is good evidence that the Sharkbite failure rate is higher than any other fitting (anecdotal evidence aside), and there are other, similar fittings that use a similar principle and plumbers are perfectly happy using those so why are they singling out Sharkbite for criticism? (I forget which fittings are similar - compression fittings, maybe? Or basically any time a seal is made by some softish material like rubber or plastic.)

Anyway, a reasonable approach if you're worried about it would be to use Sharkbite fittings where they're visible and you can keep an eye on them, but not behind walls where a leak could go undetected for a long time.

GuitarStv

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2023, 12:59:07 PM »
I'd at least try to replace the anode first.

If you keep 'em on a regular maintenance schedule (new anode every 3-4 years), water heaters should last a long time.  We got 35 years out of our last one.

ChpBstrd

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2023, 03:16:43 PM »
I'm going to differ from the crowd and say replace the unmaintained 10y/o water heater before it leaks, especially if there is a remote possibility of water damage. Regardless of how long a well-maintained WH can last, you are at the end of life for your unmaintained WH.

How I know:
My house had a 9 y/o WH (with 9y warranty) in a bathroom closet when I bought it, and no drain pan underneath. I vowed to replace it before it leaked all over the floor, but never got around to it due to other projects. Two years later, it leaked. The water went under the bathroom tile, soaking what I later discovered to be particle board. The bathroom was taken down to the subfloor, and we ended up taking the walls to the studs too. We went about 3 weeks without hot water in December 2021 as I did emergency mold remediation and relocated the plumbing and new WH to an outdoor closet. Plumbers have long wait times in December, so this was as fast as the situation could be remedied.

This is why factories replace equipment before the equipment fails, and presumably while the equipment might - or might not - have plenty of life remaining. The disruption to other activities is just not worth it.

The tradeoff is this: Potentially getting another year or two worth of value out of the old WH versus experiencing the kind of chaos I experienced. I would have paid maybe $100 to have avoided being unable to shower, wash hands properly, etc. in my own home (DW might have paid $250) and as you can see we're well over the value of any remaining lifespan in a 10y/o WH. Also, what's the use of putting a $50 anode in a WH that is probably already rusted out? Just start fresh.

Also consider that WH's are going up in price due to inflation, just like everything else. At 5% inflation, your new $700 WH gets $35 more expensive each year you squeeze out of the old one. Thus, much of what you have to gain from getting one more year out of your old WH gets spent on inflation, at least in the short term. I.e. if a $700 WH lasts 10 years, it depreciates $70/year. But you don't get to enjoy the benefit of $70 in free depreciation because you'll pay $35 more to replace the WH for each year you get past the unit's lifespan. So you're actually chasing $35 in value at the risk of having your whole lifestyle put on hold at an inconvenient time.

WRT replacing anodes, I've never done it either, but plan to when my new WH reaches about 5 years old. You do not need massive overhead clearance to get the old anode out - it can just bend on its way out. Replacement anodes are built like a chain so they can drop into the hole with minimal overhead space. Good question on how to secure the WH while cranking a pipe wrench or socket. I might just whack the wrench/ratchet with a hammer while the tank is full (but valve is off) instead of pushing it.

snic

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #25 on: February 24, 2023, 01:06:14 PM »
If you're going to get a new WH, would it make sense to remove the anode rod while it's still brand new and not yet hooked up, wrap some teflon around the threads, and then replace it WITHOUT hiring the same gorilla the WH company uses to tighten their anode rods? (I.e., make it tight, but don't overdo it.) That way, presumably removing it will be easier 5 years down the line.

GuitarStv

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2023, 01:24:04 PM »
If you're going to get a new WH, would it make sense to remove the anode rod while it's still brand new and not yet hooked up, wrap some teflon around the threads, and then replace it WITHOUT hiring the same gorilla the WH company uses to tighten their anode rods? (I.e., make it tight, but don't overdo it.) That way, presumably removing it will be easier 5 years down the line.

You can try.  I've never been able to remove an anode rod without having the tank at least 3/4 full to help hold it in place though.

Just Joe

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2023, 12:31:39 PM »
I measure in decades. I've been replacing galvanized piping from the 1940s in my house - that's 80 years of function, although what I'm pulling out is most definitely end of life. Copper is longer than that. Cast iron, at least the old stuff, can last 100 years. There's enough history on pex that I'm ok with it in the walls, though I prefer copper for drinking lines.  How long will ProPress last? I'm fine with it on the water heater because the water heater, even with maintenance, isn't going to last 50 years. For now at least, I'll keep it out of the walls or areas that are hard to monitor.

I had 1990s PEX fail a couple years ago. The water company used it on the water meter and then the water line was tied into that. Tried to use PEX replacement line given to me by the water company. Tried Shark Bite fittings and they failed after a couple of days too.

Called a plumber and they came out and did it right for~$200.

Just installed a heat pump water heater. I sweated the pipes and hired a plumber to use ProPress fittings in a hard to reach spot where I worried about causing a fire with my torch. Asked him if he would sweat it and he declined in favor of the crimp fittings. That tool by the way is north of $2000 for the Milwaukee brand version. There are manual bolt/lock cutter type versions for $125. No idea about how well they work.

zolotiyeruki

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #28 on: March 08, 2023, 01:29:29 PM »
I'm late to this party, but I'm in the "replace the anode" camp.  Our water heater was six years old when we bought our house.  Seven (I think) years later, the temperature/pressure relief valve started leaking ($15), and that same year, I replaced the now-completely-consumed anode ($50, IIRC).  We've now lived in the house for 12 years, with no further issues.  Although I really ought to flush it....

Oh, and BTW, we're a family of eight, so between all the dishes and showers and laundry, our water heater gets plenty of use.

jnw

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #29 on: March 08, 2023, 01:48:13 PM »
I'm late to this party, but I'm in the "replace the anode" camp.  Our water heater was six years old when we bought our house.  Seven (I think) years later, the temperature/pressure relief valve started leaking ($15), and that same year, I replaced the now-completely-consumed anode ($50, IIRC).  We've now lived in the house for 12 years, with no further issues.  Although I really ought to flush it....

Oh, and BTW, we're a family of eight, so between all the dishes and showers and laundry, our water heater gets plenty of use.
Thanks, since we are just the two of us, and we take a shower every other day, perhaps we have a chance the water heater still might be okay after 10 years.  We'll try and remove the anode rod without breaking anything.. will secure the tank in place somehow before using the breaker bar.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2023, 01:50:30 PM by JenniferW »

GuitarStv

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Re: Should I just replace a 10 year old water heater? (Anode Rod)
« Reply #30 on: March 08, 2023, 02:21:06 PM »
I'm late to this party, but I'm in the "replace the anode" camp.  Our water heater was six years old when we bought our house.  Seven (I think) years later, the temperature/pressure relief valve started leaking ($15), and that same year, I replaced the now-completely-consumed anode ($50, IIRC).  We've now lived in the house for 12 years, with no further issues.  Although I really ought to flush it....

Oh, and BTW, we're a family of eight, so between all the dishes and showers and laundry, our water heater gets plenty of use.
Thanks, since we are just the two of us, and we take a shower every other day, perhaps we have a chance the water heater still might be okay after 10 years.  We'll try and remove the anode rod without breaking anything.. will secure the tank in place somehow before using the breaker bar.

Leave the tank at least 3/4 full, the weight will help hold it in place when removing the anode.