Reworking a hardwood floor previously painted

[redrocker]

For those who have worked on old hardwood floors, I have a couple of questions. I pulled up the carpet to see floorboards that had been painted previously. Looks like it was a solid brown paint, then at some point the walls were sprayed white and the floor got a lot of it. This is a bedroom in a rental, probably 150sqft or so. I see a couple of options here:

1) Repaint floorboards
2) Sand floorboards, then finish/seal or apply poly
3) Float a vinyl floor over it

I prefer the first two options. As you can see in the attached picture, when I took an orbital sander to the first couple of floorboards, I can expose a fair amount of the wood combined with some old paint in the deeper spots. I kind of like the look and wouldn't be opposed to putting poly to preserve that look. I'm up for hearing opinions on whether putting poly on that would be hard to undo in the future if I decide to attempt removing all of the paint.

On a side note the boards are slightly concave, so a floor sander is out of the question. I'm wondering if a belt sander would be quicker than the orbital. Any opinions?

And finally, there's about an 1/8th inch gap between each floor board. Should I be considering puttying the gaps? And if so, I assume that should be done before the poly?

[FIRE me]

Odds are, you're going to find dark urine stains under the paint. They won't sand out.

Also, it will be hard to tell if the floor had been previously refinished. There may not be enough wood left to refinish.

If you sand it down, I would recommend a large square pad orbital sander. Like this one:

http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Square_Buff_Floor_Sander/07014A/index.html

A drum sander would be quicker, but as you are inexperienced, you will almost certainly butcher the floor if you try a drum sander. You're only talking about one bedroom anyway, not a whole house.

Start with the 20 grit coarsest paper, and work your way up to 100 grit. Don't skip any grit, unless sanding swirl marks are something you enjoy looking at. Also, the finish will be less durable if you skip grits.

Midway through stepping up the paper grit, trowel the entire floor with wood filler. Woodwise (brand) is a great choice. Bona also makes a floor filler. Then continue sanding.

Instead of a poly finish, consider Bona Traffic. Over $100 per gallon, but it is very very durable. Two coats of Bona Traffic gives you a commercial grade finish.

[paddedhat]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day. I agree with much of what FIRE Me states, however I would be hesitant about trying to fill huge amounts of wide shrinkage gaps with filler. I know that, when faced with this situation in homes that I have flipped, my refinishing sub. will not do it, as he claims that the filler will work loose over time. In the end, I would do the sanding and evaluate. If you like the look, and it isn't excessively damaged or stained, put a finish on it. If not, cover it with another choice. Given the wide gaps, I think you will find a new subfloor necessary if you decide to install vinyl.

[redrocker]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll continue with the orbital.

[redrocker]

If you sand it down, I would recommend a large square pad orbital sander.

Thing is, the edges of each board have a slight lip on them, so my assumption is that a larger sanding surface wouldn't reach the center of each board. I used a 5" random orbital so far. I thought maybe a 3x21" belt sander would be faster and be able to get the center of each board. Or I could stick with the OBS.

[lthenderson]

I would use a drum sander so that you end up with a flat floor instead of boards that are curled up on the edges. But like someone said previously, it is easy to get carried away and butcher a floor but hiring someone to do it if you are uncomfortable shouldn't be a bank killer. Since you have such wide gaps, I don't think I would fill them. I think it would look terrible that way. If you find out that there are stains when you finish sanding, you can patch in wood in those areas or just go with a darker stain to hide them.

[FIRE me]

If you sand it down, I would recommend a large square pad orbital sander.

Thing is, the edges of each board have a slight lip on them, so my assumption is that a larger sanding surface wouldn't reach the center of each board. I used a 5" random orbital so far. I thought maybe a 3x21" belt sander would be faster and be able to get the center of each board. Or I could stick with the OBS.

Cupping is common in old floors. Removing cupping and other imperfections, along with old finish removal is the reason for sanding.

If you use the square sander, be prepared to sand all day. If you putty the floor for the gaps, if might go into a second day to allow the putty time to dry before it is sanded.

Also, you will need a good quality shop vacuum with a near hepa quality filter to vacuum the floor before you putty, and again before you apply the stain (if you stain) and the final finish. Something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Gal-5-PHP-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-WD1270/202554972
and this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-Layer-Allergen-Filter-VF6000/100022800

[FIRE me]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll continue with the orbital.

Don't be confused by hard wood versus hardwood.

Hardwood is a biological classification, not an indicator of wood hardness. Balsa wood is a hardwood, but in fact is one of the softest woods on the planet.

http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2015/05/surprising-truth-difference-hard-woods-soft-woods/

Pine heart is a hard wood, but not a hardwood.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

[paddedhat]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll continue with the orbital.

Don't be confused by hard wood versus hardwood.

Hardwood is a biological classification, not an indicator of wood hardness. Balsa wood is a hardwood, but in fact is one of the softest woods on the planet.

http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2015/05/surprising-truth-difference-hard-woods-soft-woods/

Pine heart is a hard wood, but not a hardwood.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

Good point, but the reality of most homeowners is that they view "hardwood floors" as the typical oak or maple then maybe species like cherry, walnut, etc............ The OP might find a gorgeous heart or long leaf pine, but I have always ended up with a cupped, face grain, low grade yellow pine that's dry as a ghost fart, and splintery, with wide gaps and lots of squeaks for more "charm". Perfect shit to hide under new carpet, LOL.  Hardly a substitute for top grade 3/4" X 2-1/4" red oak that was typical in my region for pre-war "hardwood floors".

[Spork]

You may actually be looking at a subfloor.  I can't really tell from the photo... but in days before plywood/OSB, that's what they were made of.  Can you tell if it is tongue & groove?

That doesn't mean it won't have character... just saying, it may not look like the entry hall to the Rockefeller's house.

As to drum sander vs orbital:  It's a toss up for me.  *IF* you can find some place that rents decent drum sanders, that is the way to go.  Decent sanders will be *heavy*.  Really heavy.  If you can load/unload it by yourself, it's not for you.  They will also have a continuous belt that is held in place by centripetal force.  They WON'T have a screw block holding them in place.   They'll likely be 240v... but that's not a deal breaker.

The orbital sanders are just not very aggressive.  In my case I started with about 20 grit (because that's all that was available locally).   If you're dealing with really hardened wood (including old pine there)... you might need something much more aggressive.

I had issues with my cheap rented drum because it wasn't heavy enough.  It tended to bounce as I moved it.  That causes a stuttering chatter mark.  You can't feel it.... and you won't see it... until the end.

[FIRE me]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll continue with the orbital.

Don't be confused by hard wood versus hardwood.

Hardwood is a biological classification, not an indicator of wood hardness. Balsa wood is a hardwood, but in fact is one of the softest woods on the planet.

http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2015/05/surprising-truth-difference-hard-woods-soft-woods/

Pine heart is a hard wood, but not a hardwood.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

Good point, but the reality of most homeowners is that they view "hardwood floors" as the typical oak or maple then maybe species like cherry, walnut, etc............ The OP might find a gorgeous heart or long leaf pine, but I have always ended up with a cupped, face grain, low grade yellow pine that's dry as a ghost fart, and splintery, with wide gaps and lots of squeaks for more "charm". Perfect shit to hide under new carpet, LOL.  Hardly a substitute for top grade 3/4" X 2-1/4" red oak that was typical in my region for pre-war "hardwood floors".

Pine that is not heartwood would be inferior floor material.

I have Red Oak flooring in my 1950's house. There is noticeable cupping on the old (not yet refinished) floors, especially in reflective light.

[redrocker]

You may actually be looking at a subfloor.  I can't really tell from the photo... but in days before plywood/OSB, that's what they were made of.  Can you tell if it is tongue & groove?

It does appear to be tongue and groove.

As to drum sander vs orbital:  It's a toss up for me.  *IF* you can find some place that rents decent drum sanders, that is the way to go.  Decent sanders will be *heavy*.  Really heavy.  If you can load/unload it by yourself, it's not for you.  They will also have a continuous belt that is held in place by centripetal force.  They WON'T have a screw block holding them in place.   They'll likely be 240v... but that's not a deal breaker.

I used one like that once, and yeah it was heavy. The thought of getting one of those up the narrow staircase definitely motivates me to make-do with a palm sander. Doesn't have to be showroom quality work, I just want to feel good about the work I do without spending too much money.

[lthenderson]

I had thought about it being subflooring too but just about all the subflooring I've worked with was installed on a diagonal so that you would get a flatter surface when laying hardwood over the top. This appears to be square with the room.

[ShoulderThingThatGoesUp]

First issue is that it's not a hardwood floor. Wood yes, but it's a pine, which was a common choice in many secondary rooms (bedrooms, upstairs hallways, etc) back in the day.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll continue with the orbital.

Don't be confused by hard wood versus hardwood.

Hardwood is a biological classification, not an indicator of wood hardness. Balsa wood is a hardwood, but in fact is one of the softest woods on the planet.

http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2015/05/surprising-truth-difference-hard-woods-soft-woods/

Pine heart is a hard wood, but not a hardwood.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

Good point, but the reality of most homeowners is that they view "hardwood floors" as the typical oak or maple then maybe species like cherry, walnut, etc............ The OP might find a gorgeous heart or long leaf pine, but I have always ended up with a cupped, face grain, low grade yellow pine that's dry as a ghost fart, and splintery, with wide gaps and lots of squeaks for more "charm". Perfect shit to hide under new carpet, LOL.  Hardly a substitute for top grade 3/4" X 2-1/4" red oak that was typical in my region for pre-war "hardwood floors".

So I have this same squeaky, gappy stuff on the higher floors of my house, under carpet. (And beautiful old hardwoods on the first.) I had assumed that when it came time to replace the carpet, it would be reasonable to rip it out and put down some nice civilized plywood so that I don't have so many squeaks and soft spots. But you're saying it should just be hidden under carpet. Is it just not worth the effort and I should just repair the messed-up planks when I daylight them?