The Money Mustache Community
Learning, Sharing, and Teaching => Do it Yourself Discussion! => Topic started by: tallpines on December 29, 2023, 06:01:50 AM
-
Hi all Mustachians,
I FIRE'd early this year and am looking to help out with advice on projects. It's my idea of a fun hobby while our kids are at school.
Here's some background and pictures to get the conversation going.
I'm a nationally certified carpenter in Canada. (The program is called Red Seal here, US equivalent would be a journeyman). Does that mean I know everything? Absolutely not but I can usually help in some way, even if it's just to say "Sorry, this would be outside of my scope of practice, I would recommend you contact ______). So feel free to ask me anything! Happy to help someone pick up a tool for the first time, to demonstrating hip roof rafters, bathroom tiling, your leaky sink, full new construction and anything in between!
I enjoy all aspects of construction but my experience is mostly in residential.
Here's a few skills I have in addition to the hands on work that I think could be helpful here:
Income property renovations (Before or after purchase. eg: How much would it cost to finish the basement and create a second unit?--->coincidentally, was the situation on my first property)
Project management (What's the goal and how do we get there)
Material take offs (What do I need and how much of it?)
3d modelling (What would this look like if I added the deck here instead of over there?)
National building code look up (How high up does dampproofing need to come above grade?)
Drafting and structural engineering (I outsource this to connections from my old company)
Tiny houses (passion of mine! I designed and built two, made lots of mistakes and learned alot)
Okay I think that might be enough of an introduction, time for some photos! edit: can't attach to this post due to file size. Here's a google photos link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oRg3TCvRoPGs53oo6
Okay everyone Happy Holidays and thanks for being part of an awesome community. Time for me to give back!
-
Welcome! Your portfolio is really cool. I want to build a tiny house someday (just for fun) and an outdoor solar shower (because bathing outside is the best kind of bathing). Those are projects for my next property, I have no room where I am now.
-
Hey thanks alot. It was fun putting it together and looking back.
Your projects sound exciting, I haven't built an outdoor shower, closest thing was this hot tub I built last year. Super fun and really cheap too.
-
Hey thanks alot. It was fun putting it together and looking back.
Your projects sound exciting, I haven't built an outdoor shower, closest thing was this hot tub I built last year. Super fun and really cheap too.
Beautiful! It looks like one of those Japanese baths made with sweet smelling Hinoki.
-
Hey thanks alot. It was fun putting it together and looking back.
Your projects sound exciting, I haven't built an outdoor shower, closest thing was this hot tub I built last year. Super fun and really cheap too.
That looks awesome!
-
Thanks, I had to look up Japenese Hinoki baths and wow, that was quite a compliment! They are definitely beautiful.
It's actually 1" thick pine that I had leftover from a siding project. I found a stock tank on Kijiji (craigslist equivalent) for free, a few plumbing fittings, a ton of bevels on the table saw and it was done! It's going to the AirBNB I'm building in the spring.
-
Hi tallpines- great to see a new member so excited to help others with their experience. What province(s) did you live and work in?
I’m a hobbyist woodworker (which means I ruin a lot of perfectly good woods to ultimately make something bespoke for considerably more than a mass produced item might cost) and have been involved in some renovation and energy efficiency projects on my own homes.
Welcome!
-
Hey thanks for the warm welcome!
Ha! I had a good laugh at your definition of wood working. Isn't that true. I'm not much of one myself but definitely appreciate and admire the skill involved. I'm really interested in joinery and timber framing so I'm setting aside some time each week to practice this winter.
I've been in the Maritimes my whole life but worked all over the country and was lucky enough to have a few trips abroad as well.
-
This is really generous of you. Will be fun to follow along.
-
@tallpines
Congratulations and welcome. It's great of you to offer your expertise. I've been a DIY homebuilder & definitely had plenty of head-scratching moments. It would have been great to have someone to consult with. We're living in another home now and have a couple of repair projects I'll need to tackle soon. It's great to have a place to seek help.
Happy New Year
-
@tallpines
Congratulations and welcome. It's great of you to offer your expertise. I've been a DIY homebuilder & definitely had plenty of head-scratching moments. It would have been great to have someone to consult with. We're living in another home now and have a couple of repair projects I'll need to tackle soon. It's great to have a place to seek help.
Happy New Year
Hey thanks alot. Happy to do it. If there weren't some beers and head scratching then it would just be work instead of fun!
You're right, it's nice to have someone to bounce ideas back and forth with eh. Lots of times the guy I'm talking to will have a better way of doing it then I thought of. Good luck with your projects and message anytime.
-
Nice to meet you, tallpines, and congrats on FIRE! It's so kind of you to offer to share your expertise.
I have a few upcoming DIY projects where I could definitely use your advice. Do you prefer posting here or private messages?
-
Nice to meet you, tallpines, and congrats on FIRE! It's so kind of you to offer to share your expertise.
I have a few upcoming DIY projects where I could definitely use your advice. Do you prefer posting here or private messages?
Hmm good question!
I guess PM might make it easier if there is a lot of back and forth. Afterwards, if it makes sense, we could post a summary if it seems like it could be helpful to the community?
-
My question is how to find a fabulous carpenter like yourself? Ask around?
-
Thanks for the compliment! I can't describe myself that way yet but I'll keep practising and then one day I hope too.
Great question. I would say that asking around is a good idea. If you find someone already vetted then great.
If not, I'd write down what you want done and then look at the portfolio's of local contractors and see if any align with your list. If their price seems high (but not sky high) , it still may be worth what they are charging if the work is of high quality and timely. It's a low barrier to entry industry and quality varies alot. But to become competent requires alot of time and money, they deserve to be compensated as such. It's cheaper to have it done right the first time. (That may mean waiting)
Once you do find someone you like, a good way to keep them around is paying them on time and being flexible with their schedules (so long as they are treating you fairly).
Hope that helps!
-
It's cheaper to have it done right the first time. (That may mean waiting)
Ugh, I feel this. When getting ready to repaint our small front porch, we discovered that the joists were rotting away and needed to be replaced ASAP. We did not have time to do it ourselves, and we couldn't wait for the contractors who were 12 months out at the time. So we hired the first nice guy who was available. He did the work fast and relatively cheaply. It's also really, really shitty.
I have accepted this as my impatience tax, and know that we will need to replace the whole dang thing in a year or two. Woulda been cheaper to shore up the rotting joists and wait for spring.
-
Crap, that's really frustrating. I've had to redo work I paid for a few times. It's annoying.
-
Posting to follow. Now I'm retired I've been starting some woodworking projects. I don't really have a shop, so most everything has to be done outside which means rain this time of year so I'm on a bit of hiatus. I'm thinking about building an outdoor "kitchen" in the spring which would really just be a shed roof over the smoker and some countertop prep area.
-
Outdoor kitchen is a dream. Our property isn't a good fit for it but once we move I'll go all out. Brick oven, smoker, nice seating and hopefully all under a timber frame pavilion.
You can make a really nice space for not alot of money. I had clients that spent over 26k material cost on their outdoor kitchen surfaces and cabinets alone.
I see you're in Washington State. How does pricing for cedar compare there to pine say ? Price of cedar here is hard to swallow.
-
Glad to have you here. This bunch of folks have alot to share. Amazed at all the expertise here.
I am a casual carpenter. Currently renovating our kitchen. New cabinets and appliances. Going slow, learning lots. Easier than I expected though.
Typo edit: here vs hear. Ugh... ;)
-
I know, I feel lucky to be here honestly.
I bet you'll do a great job. I've seen many kitchens that guys did themselves that were better then hiring out , just because of the time they took and how picky they were. It's alot nicer when your paycheque doesn't depend on getting it done as fast as possible.
-
We'd go hungry if this is how we earned our dinners. ;)
Made alot of progress this weekend, have the routine figured out. Just a few more base cabinets and then a few hanging cabinets left.
-
That's great. Nice skill to add to the collection. I found a cross line laser so handy with cabinets.
-
Beautiful work!
I have a tiny 60 sqf room in Paris which will be my next home. The single bed will not be a Murphy bed but a foldable one typically used for guests, and disguise it with a cabinet open at the back and shelf inside for the bedding. Once I move there I'll have access to a shared studio with machines (wood and metal, I'll be contributing a papermaking machine).
Also, I'd like to use the room to work occasionally during daytimes. Have you seen any interesting, ergonomic wooden foldable chairs that would be doable with simple machines? Any advice appreciated!
I'll try to edit and add a couple images to this post.
-
Wow! Hong Kong to Paris, Sounds like you have some very interesting stories to tell! And also, papermaking?! That is so cool!
I didn't completely understand your question. Are you looking for help with the chair, the bed or both? Either way I'll help out.
-
Kind of a broad question: I am thinking about building or having built a new house in 4-5 years. A style I like is what I think of as traditional farmhouse, but it is hard to find any plans like this.
The picture below is maybe the best way to describe the aesthetic, but I'll try text too: A rectangle house with plain gable-end roof (no dormers), two full stories plus usable attic. Maybe needs to be L-shaped to get enough sqft without getting massive in appearance. Maybe ends up t-shaped by the time an attached garage gets added on. Large sqft probably necessary to fit in modern expectations of nice master suite, kitchen+dining, mudroom, bedrooms for 4 kids, yet simple straight exterior walls to enable efficiency of construction and operation. Dressed up on the exterior with a nice porch. Windows spaced very symmetrical and evenly, traditional size double-hung probably. A few picture windows as necessary.
Interior reminiscent of a four-square layout maybe. Main rooms relatively open to each other with wide doorways (dual pocket doors?) connecting them. Most bedrooms on second floor obviously, but master suite on the main floor if possible.
Any "modern farmhouse" aesthetic shot on sight. Barndoors completely out of the question!
Am I a nightmare customer for a builder?
Is there any hope of keeping the scale of a house like this within the realm of possibility for a DIYer with maybe 1 hired experienced hand?
What would I be looking for in this hired experienced hand? Where would I find them?
Where would I find floorplans like this? Googling "traditional farmhouse" is near worthless. Google Images for "farmhouse site:ghostsofnorthdakota.com" captures the aesthetic nicely.
What elements of this dream keep people from building homes like this now?
Edit: do you know of any home kits for this kind of thing?
Thanks!
-
Kind of a broad question: I am thinking about building or having built a new house in 4-5 years. A style I like is what I think of as traditional farmhouse, but it is hard to find any plans like this.
The picture below is maybe the best way to describe the aesthetic, but I'll try text too: A rectangle house with plain gable-end roof (no dormers), two full stories plus usable attic. Maybe needs to be L-shaped to get enough sqft without getting massive in appearance. Maybe ends up t-shaped by the time an attached garage gets added on. Large sqft probably necessary to fit in modern expectations of nice master suite, kitchen+dining, mudroom, bedrooms for 4 kids, yet simple straight exterior walls to enable efficiency of construction and operation. Dressed up on the exterior with a nice porch. Windows spaced very symmetrical and evenly, traditional size double-hung probably. A few picture windows as necessary.
Interior reminiscent of a four-square layout maybe. Main rooms relatively open to each other with wide doorways (dual pocket doors?) connecting them. Most bedrooms on second floor obviously, but master suite on the main floor if possible.
Any "modern farmhouse" aesthetic shot on sight. Barndoors completely out of the question!
Am I a nightmare customer for a builder? No, I don't see anything so far that would make me think that at all.
Is there any hope of keeping the scale of a house like this within the realm of possibility for a DIYer with maybe 1 hired experienced hand? Depends on both of your skill level. If you aren't in a rush and are okay with potentially redoing work I'd argue you could end up with a better built house then some builders would complete.
What would I be looking for in this hired experienced hand? at least one of you should have familiarity with building code, reliable, hard working, physically capable..ideally they'd be easy to get along with but you can't have everything.
Where would I find them? ideally word of mouth, maybe a call out on here ? If no luck, put a job offer out.
Where would I find floorplans like this? Googling "traditional farmhouse" is near worthless. Google Images for "farmhouse site:ghostsofnorthdakota.com" captures the aesthetic nicely. I'm not sure what the term would be for your particular house design. There's lots of plan websites but often hidden behind paywall. Should be able to get a peek at them though at least to give you an idea. I work with a drafter, she charges 45 cents/sq ft to design. Alot cheaper to make mistakes on paper. I'm in Nova Scotia, no idea what rates are like in your area. Possible route is sketch out your ideas and start working with a drafter.
What elements of this dream keep people from building homes like this now? Good question, I'm not sure the style has anything to do with it,. or just the fact that not many people build their own houses.
Edit: do you know of any home kits for this kind of thing?
No sorry, I do not
Hope all this helps, good for you for even thinking about taking it on. I'm just a message away.
Thanks!
-
Am I a nightmare customer for a builder?
Is there any hope of keeping the scale of a house like this within the realm of possibility for a DIYer with maybe 1 hired experienced hand?
What would I be looking for in this hired experienced hand? Where would I find them?
Where would I find floorplans like this? Googling "traditional farmhouse" is near worthless. Google Images for "farmhouse site:ghostsofnorthdakota.com" captures the aesthetic nicely.
What elements of this dream keep people from building homes like this now?
Edit: do you know of any home kits for this kind of thing?
From experience, such a project like this with a builder involved is probably doomed without a good set of architectural plans. The quality of "plans" you find online just don't cut it. They are generic, don't lay out many critical features like electrical, plumbing, HVAC, structural detail, how it fits the lay of your land, etc. I would print off pictures, some online plans with layouts similar to what you desire and hire a good architect to detail it all out. The ones I have hired in the past have a set fee that will cover all the revisions until they get it right along with being "on call" during the actual build should questions or problems arise. They also give you detailed blue prints which can then be handed off to reliable contractors for detailed and reliable quotes.
These houses are still being built. My sister-in-law had one built. She hired an architect to draw it up. I think the reason they aren't more popular are due to changing tastes. They aren't as easy to heat or cool efficiently, they are harder for people to age in place in them with multiple levels, most people prefer single floor homes which drives the resale value down on multiple story farm homes.
I had architectural plans to my home addition drawn up though I was doing the bulk of the work. I did this because I wanted to hire out the heavy stuff like concrete and the outer shell being built and I found that those with detailed plans in hand, gave me a lot more accurate quotes than those that just squinted at the image in their imagination and scratched their head. Also, in my state, new construction required licensed plumbers, electricians and HVAC installers and permits required engineering stamped plans. It was nice when an electrician pulled me to the side and started asking where every single outlet needed to be. I could just flip open the plans to the correct page, point and they had all their questions answered. Even when I was later doing the interior parts of the project, it was helpful to have detailed plans that I could refer to. They were worth every single penny I paid for them.
-
I didn't completely understand your question. Are you looking for help with the chair, the bed or both? Either way I'll help out.
Haha I worded these questions confusingly. Yes asking what you'd advise on both.
For the cabinet: I love hardwoods but for something like this (that is meant to be on wheels, used on what I hope will eventually be a surface of 18th century terracotta tiles) should I use a lighter weight wood? At the studio I'll have access to a 'chutotheque' of cast off wood from other users, but would prefer to buy something more beautiful and consistent.
For the chair: Do you know of any compact, foldable designs?
Thank you!
-
From experience, such a project like this with a builder involved is probably doomed without a good set of architectural plans.
I've never built a house, but I'll just chime in on the value of plans. A friend, former housemate, and carpenter helped me renovate my house and really taught me the value of plans. He always started with a set of plans, even for simple projects. I was more of a measure and cut as you go kind of guy. So it was kind of irritating at first to generate a cut list before we even started. But everything is easier and faster if you have a good drawing to work from, even simple stuff.
I'm learning Fusion 360 so I can draw plans for my theoretical outdoor kitchen. It is taking probably only 30x the amount of time doing it by hand on graph paper would require.
-
From experience, such a project like this with a builder involved is probably doomed without a good set of architectural plans.
I've never built a house, but I'll just chime in on the value of plans. A friend, former housemate, and carpenter helped me renovate my house and really taught me the value of plans. He always started with a set of plans, even for simple projects. I was more of a measure and cut as you go kind of guy. So it was kind of irritating at first to generate a cut list before we even started. But everything is easier and faster if you have a good drawing to work from, even simple stuff.
I'm learning Fusion 360 so I can draw plans for my theoretical outdoor kitchen. It is taking probably only 30x the amount of time doing it by hand on graph paper would require.
Agree. Plans are money well spent. Nice to give to suppliers to quote take offs as well. Or with his time line, he could keep an eye out an stockpile materials if it made sense for his situation.
I use sketchup and the learning curve was steep for sure. Very glad I learned how to do it though.
-
I didn't completely understand your question. Are you looking for help with the chair, the bed or both? Either way I'll help out.
Haha I worded these questions confusingly. Yes asking what you'd advise on both.
For the cabinet: I love hardwoods but for something like this (that is meant to be on wheels, used on what I hope will eventually be a surface of 18th century terracotta tiles) should I use a lighter weight wood? At the studio I'll have access to a 'chutotheque' of cast off wood from other users, but would prefer to buy something more beautiful and consistent.
For the chair: Do you know of any compact, foldable designs?
Thank you!
I think I will have to respectfully bow out as this is more of a woodworking question, which I am not one. I would love to see what you end up making though !
-
Haha I worded these questions confusingly. Yes asking what you'd advise on both.
For the cabinet: I love hardwoods but for something like this (that is meant to be on wheels, used on what I hope will eventually be a surface of 18th century terracotta tiles) should I use a lighter weight wood? At the studio I'll have access to a 'chutotheque' of cast off wood from other users, but would prefer to buy something more beautiful and consistent.
For the chair: Do you know of any compact, foldable designs?
Thank you!
I've built a murphy bed before and I would not recommend using solid hardwood for a couple reasons. Solid hardwood would be heavy, but it is also unstable with changes in temperature and humidity. With large panels that you would use in the cabinet to house the murphy bed, you will more than likely see cupping/warping/movement over time. I build mine out of cabinet grade plywood and then used solid hardwood edging. The plywood is very stable to cupping and warping with seasonal changes in humidity. Many decades ago, I build a barrister style bookcase out of solid wood. I built it to accommodate the swelling and shrinking of humidity changes and it still works though now, there are gaps where there won't be gaps come summer time. Plywood doesn't do this and if I were to rebuild it, I would have gone the plywood route for the carcass and just use solid hardwoods for the faceframe and doors which is the part everyone sees anyway. There is also the cost difference. Solid wood for everything will probably be 10 times the cost of building most of the panels out of plywood.
-
From experience, such a project like this with a builder involved is probably doomed without a good set of architectural plans.
I've never built a house, but I'll just chime in on the value of plans. A friend, former housemate, and carpenter helped me renovate my house and really taught me the value of plans. He always started with a set of plans, even for simple projects. I was more of a measure and cut as you go kind of guy. So it was kind of irritating at first to generate a cut list before we even started. But everything is easier and faster if you have a good drawing to work from, even simple stuff.
I'm learning Fusion 360 so I can draw plans for my theoretical outdoor kitchen. It is taking probably only 30x the amount of time doing it by hand on graph paper would require.
Agree. Plans are money well spent. Nice to give to suppliers to quote take offs as well. Or with his time line, he could keep an eye out an stockpile materials if it made sense for his situation.
I use sketchup and the learning curve was steep for sure. Very glad I learned how to do it though.
I have built a house. Was the GC and did about 70% of the work myself.
Buy your land BEFORE you fall in love with a particular design. Houses need to fit on the property. I like the farmhouse style too, but where your home sits on the property will absolutely influence things like window placement, porches, outbuildings, etc,etc.
If your land has a slope, it might make perfect sense to have a walkout basement, what about utilities?, what about CC&R's? The list goes on.
Once you have your property, you can hire a designer (does not need to be an architect ) and really dial in what your needs/wants are and how the structure will work with the property. Then you can get your plans drawn up and start getting bids.
-
Kind of a broad question: I am thinking about building or having built a new house in 4-5 years. A style I like is what I think of as traditional farmhouse, but it is hard to find any plans like this.
@Bartlebooth My house is one of those, built 1919. Take off the porches and change the color from your picture and that's my house. So if you want to chat, pm me.
-
I will take you up on the offer!
The front porch on my 1940 house has a roofline that curves from steep to nearly flat and then drains off the front, where it's flat. At the flat area, water gets under the shingles, because the slope is less than the minimum for shingles. From the attic I can see where the roof has rotted out at least 3 times before and there are new boards shimmed onto each generation of old boards where each fix rotted out on the ends. The roof is 17 years old and will now have to be completely replaced because this is a design that rots out. Cannot patch it with flat roofing material without tearing off the old roofing anyway. I've decided to fix the design instead of doing another 15 year patch job.
The plan is to cut out the entire curved portion of the roof over the porch and LR and install new rafters at 3:12 slope. These new rafters can sit on a convenient support beam on the high side. On the low side, I'm getting crafty because I've always wanted a big porch and because an attached carport is gawd awful ugly. This is my chance to not have an ugly house.
I plan to expand the porch out 2' so that it is 8' wide instead of 6'. When I find a mason, I'll have them install 3 brick or fieldstone columns across the porch and carport, and extend the porch floor. Then I'll make a beam out of a few sandwiched 2x10s for the rafters to sit upon. Then I'll be ready to remove the roof from that section of the house, install new 2x6 rafters, install sheathing, and install new shingles. A bit of the new roof will extend over the front stairs of the porch, shielding them from water and ice. I might create a little rustic bracket off the house to make that overhang look more supported if necessary for cosmetic purposes, but the support is actually provided by the cantilevered beam.
The CAD :) drawings below illustrate the complexities. On the left side of the porch roof slope I have a valley. On the right, I plan to rebuild the carport and tie it together with the house's roofline instead of it being 4 levels of ugly add-on jankiness like it is now. I plan to keep an existing secret garden space between the carport and house because it lets natural light into three windows and because DW says so. The backside of the new roof abutting the secret garden will just be a vertical wall. New columns, rooflines and porch concrete are shown in green on the last "CAD" drawing.
The intimidating part of this project is tying together all those lines into a working roof. I've never done roof framing before so I completely envision myself getting up there and doing a lot of "huh?" and staring. Not good when your roof is cut open in a climate that gets 3' of rain per year and you're working solo on days taken off from work!
Any tips are appreciated. I'm building myself up for this massive late spring project, and planning to get a scaffold.
-
Sure, I can give you a hand with that. Good idea to do all this prep ahead of time. Will probably need a few more pictures just to make sure I understand everything you want to do 100%. I'll send you a PM.
-
I've built a murphy bed before and I would not recommend using solid hardwood for a couple reasons. Solid hardwood would be heavy, but it is also unstable with changes in temperature and humidity. With large panels that you would use in the cabinet to house the murphy bed, you will more than likely see cupping/warping/movement over time. I build mine out of cabinet grade plywood and then used solid hardwood edging. The plywood is very stable to cupping and warping with seasonal changes in humidity. Many decades ago, I build a barrister style bookcase out of solid wood. I built it to accommodate the swelling and shrinking of humidity changes and it still works though now, there are gaps where there won't be gaps come summer time. Plywood doesn't do this and if I were to rebuild it, I would have gone the plywood route for the carcass and just use solid hardwoods for the faceframe and doors which is the part everyone sees anyway. There is also the cost difference. Solid wood for everything will probably be 10 times the cost of building most of the panels out of plywood.
Thanks for giving an array of practical reasons why it's best to use plywood! [edited the autocorrect] Paris tends to be quite humid and cool so this is all important info to take into consideration
-
I've built a murphy bed before and I would not recommend using solid hardwood for a couple reasons. Solid hardwood would be heavy, but it is also unstable with changes in temperature and humidity. With large panels that you would use in the cabinet to house the murphy bed, you will more than likely see cupping/warping/movement over time. I build mine out of cabinet grade plywood and then used solid hardwood edging. The plywood is very stable to cupping and warping with seasonal changes in humidity. Many decades ago, I build a barrister style bookcase out of solid wood. I built it to accommodate the swelling and shrinking of humidity changes and it still works though now, there are gaps where there won't be gaps come summer time. Plywood doesn't do this and if I were to rebuild it, I would have gone the plywood route for the carcass and just use solid hardwoods for the faceframe and doors which is the part everyone sees anyway. There is also the cost difference. Solid wood for everything will probably be 10 times the cost of building most of the panels out of plywood.
Thanks for giving an array of practical reasons why it's best not to use.plywood! Paris tends to be quite humid and cool so this is all important info to take into consideration
I think you have that backwards
Plywood = great choice (for boxes/carcasses)
Hardwood = best for face frames and trim
I’ll just add: buy quality plywood. It’s tempting to save $50/sheet by buying construction-grade (BC/X) but in the end the total $50-100 you “save” will result in a piece that looks worse and won’t last as long.
Wood glue is what holds your joinery together permanently. Screws and pin nails are just to hold it together til the glue cures. Some of the best bespoke furniture is build with quality plywood, some hardwood trim, glue, and not a single screw or nail.
-
I will take you up on the offer!
The front porch on my 1940 house has a roofline that curves from steep to nearly flat and then drains off the front, where it's flat. At the flat area, water gets under the shingles, because the slope is less than the minimum for shingles. From the attic I can see where the roof has rotted out at least 3 times before and there are new boards shimmed onto each generation of old boards where each fix rotted out on the ends. The roof is 17 years old and will now have to be completely replaced because this is a design that rots out. Cannot patch it with flat roofing material without tearing off the old roofing anyway. I've decided to fix the design instead of doing another 15 year patch job.
The plan is to cut out the entire curved portion of the roof over the porch and LR and install new rafters at 3:12 slope. These new rafters can sit on a convenient support beam on the high side. On the low side, I'm getting crafty because I've always wanted a big porch and because an attached carport is gawd awful ugly. This is my chance to not have an ugly house.
I plan to expand the porch out 2' so that it is 8' wide instead of 6'. When I find a mason, I'll have them install 3 brick or fieldstone columns across the porch and carport, and extend the porch floor. Then I'll make a beam out of a few sandwiched 2x10s for the rafters to sit upon. Then I'll be ready to remove the roof from that section of the house, install new 2x6 rafters, install sheathing, and install new shingles. A bit of the new roof will extend over the front stairs of the porch, shielding them from water and ice. I might create a little rustic bracket off the house to make that overhang look more supported if necessary for cosmetic purposes, but the support is actually provided by the cantilevered beam.
The CAD :) drawings below illustrate the complexities. On the left side of the porch roof slope I have a valley. On the right, I plan to rebuild the carport and tie it together with the house's roofline instead of it being 4 levels of ugly add-on jankiness like it is now. I plan to keep an existing secret garden space between the carport and house because it lets natural light into three windows and because DW says so. The backside of the new roof abutting the secret garden will just be a vertical wall. New columns, rooflines and porch concrete are shown in green on the last "CAD" drawing.
The intimidating part of this project is tying together all those lines into a working roof. I've never done roof framing before so I completely envision myself getting up there and doing a lot of "huh?" and staring. Not good when your roof is cut open in a climate that gets 3' of rain per year and you're working solo on days taken off from work!
Any tips are appreciated. I'm building myself up for this massive late spring project, and planning to get a scaffold.
I would look to do a torch down roof on the low slope section.
What you are proposing is a huge amount of work to solve a fairly simple problem.
Once everything is torn off, you will need to re frame the eave wall to support the rafters and re frame the gable walls as well, add siding on the new framing, extend any vents through the new roof plane, install new rafters, sheathing, shingles, and gutters. And then reinsulate the ceiling/floor as that will likely be degraded during construction.
-
I've built a murphy bed before and I would not recommend using solid hardwood for a couple reasons. Solid hardwood would be heavy, but it is also unstable with changes in temperature and humidity. With large panels that you would use in the cabinet to house the murphy bed, you will more than likely see cupping/warping/movement over time. I build mine out of cabinet grade plywood and then used solid hardwood edging. The plywood is very stable to cupping and warping with seasonal changes in humidity. Many decades ago, I build a barrister style bookcase out of solid wood. I built it to accommodate the swelling and shrinking of humidity changes and it still works though now, there are gaps where there won't be gaps come summer time. Plywood doesn't do this and if I were to rebuild it, I would have gone the plywood route for the carcass and just use solid hardwoods for the faceframe and doors which is the part everyone sees anyway. There is also the cost difference. Solid wood for everything will probably be 10 times the cost of building most of the panels out of plywood.
Thanks for giving an array of practical reasons why it's best not to use.plywood! Paris tends to be quite humid and cool so this is all important info to take into consideration
I think you have that backwards
Plywood = great choice (for boxes/carcasses)
Hardwood = best for face frames and trim
I’ll just add: buy quality plywood. It’s tempting to save $50/sheet by buying construction-grade (BC/X) but in the end the total $50-100 you “save” will result in a piece that looks worse and won’t last as long.
Wood glue is what holds your joinery together permanently. Screws and pin nails are just to hold it together til the glue cures. Some of the best bespoke furniture is build with quality plywood, some hardwood trim, glue, and not a single screw or nail.
Yes, plywood is a great choice for your application.
I usually buy cabinet grade plywood which comes finish sanded on both sides. One of the features I look for is the thickness of the top/show ply. The thicker the better and will make it easier later on. Sometimes you can find thicker plies on cheaper plywoods with adequate grain patterns and sometimes you can't and have to spend more money. I have found a local lumber yard that can special order any grade/species of plywood and it is generally as cheap but has thicker plies than what my big box store offers. For example, I was able to pick up a couple sheets of cherry plywood for a corner cabinet project I made a few years back. The downside though is that it usually comes crated up and I have to uncrate it at the lumberyard in order to fit in inside my minivan for the drive back home.
-
I've built a murphy bed before and I would not recommend using solid hardwood for a couple reasons. Solid hardwood would be heavy, but it is also unstable with changes in temperature and humidity. With large panels that you would use in the cabinet to house the murphy bed, you will more than likely see cupping/warping/movement over time. I build mine out of cabinet grade plywood and then used solid hardwood edging. The plywood is very stable to cupping and warping with seasonal changes in humidity. Many decades ago, I build a barrister style bookcase out of solid wood. I built it to accommodate the swelling and shrinking of humidity changes and it still works though now, there are gaps where there won't be gaps come summer time. Plywood doesn't do this and if I were to rebuild it, I would have gone the plywood route for the carcass and just use solid hardwoods for the faceframe and doors which is the part everyone sees anyway. There is also the cost difference. Solid wood for everything will probably be 10 times the cost of building most of the panels out of plywood.
Thanks for giving an array of practical reasons why it's best not to use.plywood! Paris tends to be quite humid and cool so this is all important info to take into consideration
I think you have that backwards
Plywood = great choice (for boxes/carcasses)
Hardwood = best for face frames and trim
I’ll just add: buy quality plywood. It’s tempting to save $50/sheet by buying construction-grade (BC/X) but in the end the total $50-100 you “save” will result in a piece that looks worse and won’t last as long.
Wood glue is what holds your joinery together permanently. Screws and pin nails are just to hold it together til the glue cures. Some of the best bespoke furniture is build with quality plywood, some hardwood trim, glue, and not a single screw or nail.
Thanks so much everyone for your input. Will take all this into account when getting started later this year.
-
I'm about to embark on a major renovation of a 1954 house I bought recently. I have a TON of questions, but I'll ask what I hope are some simple ones that might apply to other people's projects first:
Am I stupid to be considering using inexpensive tile (under $3/sq ft) from Home Depot or similar suppliers for the larger sections of my bathrooms (I am adding a new primary bath and will eventually renovate the current bath, which is the only one in the house). What is the difference between a $3/sq ft tile from a mass market supplier and fancy tile at $10-20/sq ft? Is the latter REALLY that much better/more durable?
And how does the type/size of tiles I choose affect the labor costs? What is the easiest/fastest type of tile to install in different areas (floors, shower floors, shower walls)?
I do read the reviews where they are available -- trying to pick affordable tiles that have generally good reviews (4+ stars minimum) and not an abundance of comments indicating they are hard to install or prone to major chipping, etc.
Here are a couple of the ones I am considering:
Shower walls: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Kolasus-Polished-12-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Stone-Look-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-16-sq-ft-Case-NHDKOLWHI1224P/304627437
Bathroom floors: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Cascade-Ridge-24-in-x-12-in-Slate-Ceramic-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-15-04-sq-ft-case-CR081224HD1PV/303517940
-
I'm about to embark on a major renovation of a 1954 house I bought recently. I have a TON of questions, but I'll ask what I hope are some simple ones that might apply to other people's projects first:
Am I stupid to be considering using inexpensive tile (under $3/sq ft) from Home Depot or similar suppliers for the larger sections of my bathrooms (I am adding a new primary bath and will eventually renovate the current bath, which is the only one in the house). What is the difference between a $3/sq ft tile from a mass market supplier and fancy tile at $10-20/sq ft? Is the latter REALLY that much better/more durable?
And how does the type/size of tiles I choose affect the labor costs? What is the easiest/fastest type of tile to install in different areas (floors, shower floors, shower walls)?
I do read the reviews where they are available -- trying to pick affordable tiles that have generally good reviews (4+ stars minimum) and not an abundance of comments indicating they are hard to install or prone to major chipping, etc.
Here are a couple of the ones I am considering:
Shower walls: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Kolasus-Polished-12-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Stone-Look-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-16-sq-ft-Case-NHDKOLWHI1224P/304627437
Bathroom floors: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Cascade-Ridge-24-in-x-12-in-Slate-Ceramic-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-15-04-sq-ft-case-CR081224HD1PV/303517940
My 2¢….
The type of tile is largely aesthetics. If a $3/ft tile looks good to you, go for it. That said, for most bathroom applications the square footage tends to be small (often < 100 square feet… sometimes MUCH less) so you don’t save a ton choosing a cheaper option over the more expensive ones.
Also - blending cheap tiles with a row of expensive ones can be very effective.
What is extremely important is getting the subsurface right. You want everything level, and I highly recommend a product like Ditra for flooring if you are on anything other than a slab foundation. Plywood-over-wooden joists flex and expand/contract. Ditra will allow for some flex and prevent mortar cracks and tile pops. If you can visibly notice flex when you walk on it consider doing a double-layer of 3/4” under the Ditra. This may require re-setting your toilet (also not difficult).
John Bridge forum is my go-to for all tiling questions.
For larger tiles like the ones you are considering you really need the floor to be flat, flat, flat. If that’s the case it’s a really easy project for a DIYer. Consider the layout carefully and do a dry run first to make sure it’s what you want. Prep and pre-layout will probably be 80% of your time, actual tile-laying 15% and the remainder will be cleanup.
Laying tile is a great DIY project. It’s ultimately just smooshing tile into a “glue” (thinset) and then making sure all the edges are straight before leaving it alone to set.
-
I'm about to embark on a major renovation of a 1954 house I bought recently. I have a TON of questions, but I'll ask what I hope are some simple ones that might apply to other people's projects first:
Am I stupid to be considering using inexpensive tile (under $3/sq ft) from Home Depot or similar suppliers for the larger sections of my bathrooms (I am adding a new primary bath and will eventually renovate the current bath, which is the only one in the house). What is the difference between a $3/sq ft tile from a mass market supplier and fancy tile at $10-20/sq ft? Is the latter REALLY that much better/more durable?
And how does the type/size of tiles I choose affect the labor costs? What is the easiest/fastest type of tile to install in different areas (floors, shower floors, shower walls)?
I do read the reviews where they are available -- trying to pick affordable tiles that have generally good reviews (4+ stars minimum) and not an abundance of comments indicating they are hard to install or prone to major chipping, etc.
Here are a couple of the ones I am considering:
Shower walls: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Kolasus-Polished-12-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Stone-Look-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-16-sq-ft-Case-NHDKOLWHI1224P/304627437
Bathroom floors: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Cascade-Ridge-24-in-x-12-in-Slate-Ceramic-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-15-04-sq-ft-case-CR081224HD1PV/303517940
Hey congratulations on your new purchase and project.
I don't know enough about the manufacturing or composition of tiles to answer your question about pricing.
I can say I've been very happy with tile in that $3 price range from Home Depot.
Ceramic is much easier to work with than porcelain. I would go with ceramic.
Large flat tiles will be the easiest to lay and grout. Make sure the surface is as flat as you can get it before laying. I use spin doctor tile leveling system. Highly recommend. Get your first course absolutely perfect because it affects everything else, doesn't matter how long it takes you.
Spend some time on calculating equal border tiles widths. For floor tiles make sure they are matte or a have a way to avoid slipping.
Feel free to message me.
-
I'm about to embark on a major renovation of a 1954 house I bought recently.
Congrats! I have a 1947 home that I basically renovated room by room. It turned out great, but I'd love to do it again because I learned so much about the process and what is possible and things to think about. Working on the house in the evening after work was the best part of my day. I'm a bit envious of all the fun you are about to have.
-
I'm about to embark on a major renovation of a 1954 house I bought recently. I have a TON of questions, but I'll ask what I hope are some simple ones that might apply to other people's projects first:
Am I stupid to be considering using inexpensive tile (under $3/sq ft) from Home Depot or similar suppliers for the larger sections of my bathrooms (I am adding a new primary bath and will eventually renovate the current bath, which is the only one in the house). What is the difference between a $3/sq ft tile from a mass market supplier and fancy tile at $10-20/sq ft? Is the latter REALLY that much better/more durable?
And how does the type/size of tiles I choose affect the labor costs? What is the easiest/fastest type of tile to install in different areas (floors, shower floors, shower walls)?
I do read the reviews where they are available -- trying to pick affordable tiles that have generally good reviews (4+ stars minimum) and not an abundance of comments indicating they are hard to install or prone to major chipping, etc.
Here are a couple of the ones I am considering:
Shower walls: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Kolasus-Polished-12-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Stone-Look-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-16-sq-ft-Case-NHDKOLWHI1224P/304627437
Bathroom floors: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Cascade-Ridge-24-in-x-12-in-Slate-Ceramic-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-15-04-sq-ft-case-CR081224HD1PV/303517940
I've used tiles from HD, from "manufacturers" like Dal, and from boutique manufacturers. Dal sells all sorts of tiles they don't manufacture. HD sells some good tiles as well, but might not have access to more of a certain line or style, so make sure you have enough. Boutique tiles are for style, they aren't any better made for the most part, in fact for some of them the imperfection is the draw.
Bigger tiles on the floor in some ways are easier to install, but the subfloor needs to be dead on. The levelers mentioned above are a good idea. You also need to lay a thicker layer of mud for thicker tiles, using a bigger notched trowel. Plan the install well so your end cuts are close to equal. If you have to cut off more than half a tile at the end then shift your layout and cut a quarter of each end instead. Make a reference line on the floor and don't mud over it. I also have lots of different lengths of aluminum angle that I screw to the floor or wall and tile to. Remove them promptly and clean up any mud. Keep your work area clean. I save big pieces of cardboard and lay them over the tile and use them to kneel on, with knee pads of course.
When you get to a shower floor, the tiles need to be small enough to conform to the slope of the floor if using a center drain. Often I'll use a 12x24 on the main floor then cut those same tiles into a 3x3 for the shower floor. If you plan correctly you can cut the tiles into a size that requires minimal end cuts in the shower. For curbs I like to use a natural stone like marble that you can cut to fit and polish the edges, or cut from a slab, or use quartz that I have made from off cuts at a countertop contractor.
For walls, big tiles are harder because they are heavier, and yhe mud is also heavier (because there's more of it) and harder to trowel on. I use a ton of blue tape to hold wall tiles in place.
The old school "brick run" 3x6 tiles are the easiest tiles to lay, in my opinion. Because the grout lines don't line up by course, they are staggered, so the eye can be fooled if the the courses above and below are off slightly. Compare that to a 4x4 tile where all the grout lines line up vertically. Especially in an old house where the walls might not be perfectly plumb; your eye will really notice the cut tiles at the wall if they get longer or shorter as you go up the wall. With 3x6 subway style, you won't notice.
It's really important to get your walls plumb, especially on a tub or shower. I'll rip long pieces of 2x stock until everything planes out perfectly.
Getting the mud on the floor or wall is also really important, not only the mix, but the trowel size and technique. The thicker the tile, the bigger the notch. I like to mix my mud then let it set for ten minutes, then test it: spread a little bit on the surface and install one or two tiles, wait a few minutes then pull the tiles up. How much mud stuck to the tiles? If it wasn't very much then you'll need to adjust the mix or the amount
Small mosaic tiles are the hardest to install and grout, even though they are on sheets. It can be hard to keep the sheets lined up, and hard to cut them on a wet saw without some of the tiles becoming unstuck. You have to make a lot of cuts. For small hexagon tiles you can buy what are called "points"(3 points and 4 points), these are just a hex tile cut in half in either direction, and a big timesaver.
I've done lots of baths and showers with dal subway tile and a fancy feature band of color, glass tiles, boutique tiles, cool patterns, etc. It's good value and looks good.
Fancier subway tiles tend to have a little shading or faceting along the edges compared to dal, which gives it more depth and is pleasing to the eye. Nice for backsplashes.
Another thing I always recommend on a bathroom tile floor is an under floor heating mat or wire . It's pretty easy to install and makes a huge difference in comfort underfoot.
-
My daughter & her fiancee wanted to retile a couple of baths in their condo. They were shocked & disappointed by how outrageous their first quote was. I was pleased about it because it allowed me to suggest that they could save $10k in a couple of weekends, while also gaining a skill and being proud of their accomplishment. I offered to help them get started and let them borrow my tools. They've purchased the rectangular subway tiles for the walls & larger 12 x 24" for the floors.
After my offer, I watched a couple of videos to brush up on my tiling skills. I discovered that it's okay to "tile over tile", especially on walls since there's no concern about a height difference into an adjoining room as with flooring.
When I went to look over the tile they purchased and look over the first bathroom I noticed that the floor level was slightly lower in the bathroom than the hall. I thought "Great, we might be able to tile over the old floor tile too." Now though I'm having second thoughts about it because I think the floor tiles are probably twice as thick as the wall tiles, and that will be a noticeable difference.
Assuming we'll have to remove the old floor tiles, what type of prep work will we need to do to the backer board under it before laying the new floor tiles? Can we just need to smooth it over with a wide chisel, or will it probably require something more?
-
I'm not surprised about the quotes. I see some really high tiling prices and you can expect a condo tax. They are a pain to work in.
Sorry, I thought I understood the situation but I got confused with "floor tiles..twice as thick as wall tile.."
I don't completely understand why the thicknesses cause an issue if they are on horizontal and vertical planes. But I likely am misunderstanding something.
I also don't have much experience tiling over tile but Sven may, he seems to have a really good grasp on the subject. If you do get down to underlayment, so long as it's an appropriate material, get it as smooth as you can, understanding any corners cut here is kicking the can down the road to when you start laying. But there is a built in tolerance as well due to the mortar bed. Sven had a great point about now being the time to add a heated underlay or trace. I've ordered a kit from Amazon a few times and it was easy to install. But like you mentioned, have to keep an eye on the elevations as well. Schlueter (and likely others that I don't know of sell) loads of transition strips to accomodate different elevations across thresholds but best to figure this all out well beforehand
-
Thanks for all the tiling input! The first stage of the reno includes enough substantial work (including addressing outdated wiring/insufficient panel and other structural issues) and a short enough timeline that I am hiring it out to a sustainable building company a friend I trust highly recommends. He has worked in the sustainable building industry 30+ years, knows who the good people are locally, and this was the first company he recommended -- they can fit me into their schedule because the house is vacant until June when my current lease ends. They also happen to already be working on a project with the designer I hired (who was recommended by my realtor and who I also click with. I will be spending more money than trying to DIY, but plan to be on site daily and learn everything I can. I MAY tackle the eventual renovation of the current bath and the kitchen myself eventually.
I actually look forward to learning to tile. My SO did some tiling in our NYC co-op back in the early 2000s and it looked great and he found it pretty easy to pick up. Classic 1917 building with subway tile on the walls and hex tile on the floor. IIRC he just added more subway tile to the area behind the clawfoot tub so that the walls wouldn't get wet when we showered. Doing the waterproofing/floors sounds more daunting so maybe I'll hire that bit out.
-
I'm not surprised about the quotes. I see some really high tiling prices and you can expect a condo tax. They are a pain to work in.
Sorry, I thought I understood the situation but I got confused with "floor tiles..twice as thick as wall tile.."
I don't completely understand why the thicknesses cause an issue if they are on horizontal and vertical planes. But I likely am misunderstanding something.
I also don't have much experience tiling over tile but Sven may, he seems to have a really good grasp on the subject. If you do get down to underlayment, so long as it's an appropriate material, get it as smooth as you can, understanding any corners cut here is kicking the can down the road to when you start laying. But there is a built in tolerance as well due to the mortar bed. Sven had a great point about now being the time to add a heated underlay or trace. I've ordered a kit from Amazon a few times and it was easy to install. But like you mentioned, have to keep an eye on the elevations as well. Schlueter (and likely others that I don't know of sell) loads of transition strips to accomodate different elevations across thresholds but best to figure this all out well beforehand
For some reason, I assumed that wall tiles might be thinner than floor tiles. I don't know the item numbers of what they purchased, but just did a quick visit to the Lowes website and found that tile thickness can vary between item numbers. One style of subway tile I checked was actually slightly thicker than a floor tile that I randomly checked.
What is an acceptable difference in the floor elevations transitioning from the bathroom to the adjoining room? I realize it should be identical, but what is considered "acceptable"?
When I examined the present elevation difference the hall was about 1/4" higher than the tile in the bathroom. If the new tile/thinset thickness is 1/2", that will reverse the 1/4" indifference. That's what I'm hoping for.
-
I'm not surprised about the quotes. I see some really high tiling prices and you can expect a condo tax. They are a pain to work in.
Sorry, I thought I understood the situation but I got confused with "floor tiles..twice as thick as wall tile.."
I don't completely understand why the thicknesses cause an issue if they are on horizontal and vertical planes. But I likely am misunderstanding something.
I also don't have much experience tiling over tile but Sven may, he seems to have a really good grasp on the subject. If you do get down to underlayment, so long as it's an appropriate material, get it as smooth as you can, understanding any corners cut here is kicking the can down the road to when you start laying. But there is a built in tolerance as well due to the mortar bed. Sven had a great point about now being the time to add a heated underlay or trace. I've ordered a kit from Amazon a few times and it was easy to install. But like you mentioned, have to keep an eye on the elevations as well. Schlueter (and likely others that I don't know of sell) loads of transition strips to accomodate different elevations across thresholds but best to figure this all out well beforehand
For some reason, I assumed that wall tiles might be thinner than floor tiles. I don't know the item numbers of what they purchased, but just did a quick visit to the Lowes website and found that tile thickness can vary between item numbers. One style of subway tile I checked was actually slightly thicker than a floor tile that I randomly checked.
What is an acceptable difference in the floor elevations transitioning from the bathroom to the adjoining room? I realize it should be identical, but what is considered "acceptable"?
When I examined the present elevation difference the hall was about 1/4" higher than the tile in the bathroom. If the new tile/thinset thickness is 1/2", that will reverse the 1/4" indifference. That's what I'm hoping for.
Tiling over tile, in general, I don't prefer it, because I want to be absolutely sure of the subfloor and underlayment, since I want the floor to last.
But not having seen it, I can't say for sure. I would look very carefully for cracks in the grout or any other signs of movement.
You won't really know how hard it will be to demo the existing floor until you do it because you won't know how it was constructed until you get in there. I'd say the older the building the more difficult it will be. Usually ninety percent of it comes out easy and ten percent is near impossible.
Another reason to remove it all is so you can build it up to plane out flat with the hall floor. As for "acceptable", I'd say 3/4" is the max, but definitely not ideal. You want the transition to be under the door. If the hall is a wood floor I would make the transition out of similar wood, if not you can buy lots of different transitions.
You can get backerboard in 1/2" and 1/4" sheets. You should spread thinset under the bb as well.
You can also get a 1/8" uncoupling membrane (Ditra, from Schluter) in lieu of backerboard on the floor. It's orange and comes in different length rolls approx 3'wide, you can cut it with a utility knife. It's a little harder to install as it wants to roll up at the ends, so I weigh it down. It's vital to get the right spread of thinset under it because it has no fasteners.
One cool thing about it is that it has indents on the surface where you can place the "warm wire" for underfloor heat. I use a hot glue gun to stick the wire in place where needed.
If you do tile over tile you'll want to clean/scuff/abrade the existing tiles well and use a modified thinset for better adhesion.
-
Assuming we'll have to remove the old floor tiles, what type of prep work will we need to do to the backer board under it before laying the new floor tiles? Can we just need to smooth it over with a wide chisel, or will it probably require something more?
Assuming the original tile job was a quality one, in my experience you will have a much more difficult time trying to remove the tile from the original backer board than just getting between the backer board and the subfloor and prying both the tile and backerboard up. As stated above, this will allow you to do everything right from the beginning as well as let you buy the correct thickness of backer board/decoupling membrane so that you get flooring heights to match.
I personally, install a transition if they don't match in height versus leaving a square cornered edge that might trip someone. I've found even a small height adjustment can be a tripping hazard to those who shuffle their feet, especially a sleepy person making a midnight trip to the bathroom.
-
Hi Tallpines,
Thanks for offering your help in this forum. I have a couple of questions for you.
Some background: Right now, the living room and dining room are together like a great room, but with a partial wall creating division between the rooms. Picture enclosed. We are looking to build a wall between the 2 rooms, so the dining room can function as an office.
1. There's engineeered hardwood that spans across both rooms. One of the contractors we had initially discussed this with, mentioned, that he can glue a 2x4 base to the bottom hardwoord and get the wall started. Is this even advisable? (If yes, what glue would you suggest) .. We think this wall won't have enough support if the base is just glued in.
2. We (My husband) will be building the wall and he feels we have to cut off the hardwood where the wall would stand. so that the bottom 2x4 can be drilled in to the later under the hardwood. Are we on the right track?
3. Also, Is there a technical name for the partial wall structure? We will not be tearing this down, We will remove the white frame of the partial wall and just build a wall to cover the open space. Any advice that you can share with us??
Thank you!
-
Hey thanks for reaching out. That's a nice looking place. From your description and the one picture it seems like a pretty straightforward job.
I'm thinking what you're calling the partial wall is likely drywall covering a beam and posts on either side which is supporting floor joists above. If I'm right that's good news because you'll have good material to attach your first and last wall stud too, as well as your top plate to the underside of that beam.
Gently removing a piece of trim to have a look at the framing would be a good first step. If I'm right your wall will be plenty strong with fasteners and you could skip the glue at the bottom plate if you wanted to. He was likely referring to construction adhesive. Not sure where you're at but here a common brand is PL Premium. Comes in a cylinder and you apply it with a caulking gun.
As far as removing hardwood, maybe make a call on that after you see what you have for existing framing, structurally it's not an issue to screw through the hardwood and into the subfloor (ideally joists if you can find them) but want to be careful to allow your floor to expand and contract, but with it being engineered flooring in a climate controlled space, likely less of an issue than say a vinyl plank floating floor.
-
Hi Tallpines,
Thanks for offering your help in this forum. I have a couple of questions for you.
Some background: Right now, the living room and dining room are together like a great room, but with a partial wall creating division between the rooms. Picture enclosed. We are looking to build a wall between the 2 rooms, so the dining room can function as an office.
1. There's engineeered hardwood that spans across both rooms. One of the contractors we had initially discussed this with, mentioned, that he can glue a 2x4 base to the bottom hardwoord and get the wall started. Is this even advisable? (If yes, what glue would you suggest) .. We think this wall won't have enough support if the base is just glued in.
2. We (My husband) will be building the wall and he feels we have to cut off the hardwood where the wall would stand. so that the bottom 2x4 can be drilled in to the later under the hardwood. Are we on the right track?
3. Also, Is there a technical name for the partial wall structure? We will not be tearing this down, We will remove the white frame of the partial wall and just build a wall to cover the open space. Any advice that you can share with us??
Thank you!
[/quote
Hi, I'm taking the liberty to add to the advice, I'm a semi retired carpenter.
1) I would not recommend leaving the flooring under the plate of the new wall. If you ever have to change out the flooring it will be much harder, plus the potential issue of expansion/contraction mentioned above. I would consider using construction adhesive on the bottom of the plate a hack job
2) Yes, you're on the right track, although I'm not sure what you're drilling into , or what "later" refers to, but in general your bottom plate should be nailed or screwed (my preference, 3" construction screws) into the floor joists. But if, as I suspect, the floor joists run the same direction as the new wall ,then the new wall will probably be between two joist bays. In new construction there would be a joist under the bottom plate, in a remodel like this I would either double an existing joist if it's close to the wall or add blocking between the joists to provide support and
nailing for the new wall. This is probably not absolutely necessary, especially since you're not building a bearing wall. The worry is the weight of the wall could cause the floor to sag between the joists, but since this is not a load bearing wall you should be fine screwing the floor plate directly into the subfloor with shorter screws. When was the house built? Older houses often skip some of the steps we take framing new houses, but they worked with better wood, generally.
3) I call your existing wall a framed opening, but I'm sure others probably have different names. The white trim along the floor is the baseboard, the trim that covers the end studs is called the jambs (like door jambs, without the door) and the trim that covers the transition from drywall or plaster to the jambs are called casings.
Advice: I would snap cut lines with a chalk box on either side of the new floor plate, giving 1/4" clearance from the drywall to the hardwood floor, this gap is covered by the baseboard.
Do you have drywall or plaster walls? If plaster, the thickness of the existing plaster wall can vary, and it doesn't necessarily correspond to any available drywall product, so you may need to shim the studs full length before you install drywall. Half inch drywall is the standard for walls.
Also, it will be challenging to hide the joints where your new wall meets the old wall and have a similar texture. Not impossible, but challenging. Butt seams in drywall without the factory recessed ends are hard to hide. You might consider removing all the drywall on the wall, not just filling in the new section.
Lastly, are you sure you want to do this? I only ask because in my careeer I have removed countless walls (with doors) between living room/dining room and built framed openings like yours. This is going to really change the flow of your floor plan.
-
Hi Tallpines,
Thanks for offering your help in this forum. I have a couple of questions for you.
Some background: Right now, the living room and dining room are together like a great room, but with a partial wall creating division between the rooms. Picture enclosed. We are looking to build a wall between the 2 rooms, so the dining room can function as an office.
1. There's engineeered hardwood that spans across both rooms. One of the contractors we had initially discussed this with, mentioned, that he can glue a 2x4 base to the bottom hardwoord and get the wall started. Is this even advisable? (If yes, what glue would you suggest) .. We think this wall won't have enough support if the base is just glued in.
2. We (My husband) will be building the wall and he feels we have to cut off the hardwood where the wall would stand. so that the bottom 2x4 can be drilled in to the later under the hardwood. Are we on the right track?
3. Also, Is there a technical name for the partial wall structure? We will not be tearing this down, We will remove the white frame of the partial wall and just build a wall to cover the open space. Any advice that you can share with us??
Thank you!
[/quote
Hi, I'm taking the liberty to add to the advice, I'm a semi retired carpenter.
1) I would not recommend leaving the flooring under the plate of the new wall. If you ever have to change out the flooring it will be much harder, plus the potential issue of expansion/contraction mentioned above. I would consider using construction adhesive on the bottom of the plate a hack job
2) Yes, you're on the right track, although I'm not sure what you're drilling into , or what "later" refers to, but in general your bottom plate should be nailed or screwed (my preference, 3" construction screws) into the floor joists. But if, as I suspect, the floor joists run the same direction as the new wall ,then the new wall will probably be between two joist bays. In new construction there would be a joist under the bottom plate, in a remodel like this I would either double an existing joist if it's close to the wall or add blocking between the joists to provide support and
nailing for the new wall. This is probably not absolutely necessary, especially since you're not building a bearing wall. The worry is the weight of the wall could cause the floor to sag between the joists, but since this is not a load bearing wall you should be fine screwing the floor plate directly into the subfloor with shorter screws. When was the house built? Older houses often skip some of the steps we take framing new houses, but they worked with better wood, generally.
3) I call your existing wall a framed opening, but I'm sure others probably have different names. The white trim along the floor is the baseboard, the trim that covers the end studs is called the jambs (like door jambs, without the door) and the trim that covers the transition from drywall or plaster to the jambs are called casings.
Advice: I would snap cut lines with a chalk box on either side of the new floor plate, giving 1/4" clearance from the drywall to the hardwood floor, this gap is covered by the baseboard.
Do you have drywall or plaster walls? If plaster, the thickness of the existing plaster wall can vary, and it doesn't necessarily correspond to any available drywall product, so you may need to shim the studs full length before you install drywall. Half inch drywall is the standard for walls.
Also, it will be challenging to hide the joints where your new wall meets the old wall and have a similar texture. Not impossible, but challenging. Butt seams in drywall without the factory recessed ends are hard to hide. You might consider removing all the drywall on the wall, not just filling in the new section.
Lastly, are you sure you want to do this? I only ask because in my careeer I have removed countless walls (with doors) between living room/dining room and built framed openings like yours. This is going to really change the flow of your floor plan.
When I saw the photo I thought the same thing. Have you considered installing French doors there instead? That would divide the rooms without permanently altering the flow pattern. Curtains or screens could be used with the doors to create more privacy and separation between the rooms.
-
If you do build a wall or put in doors, PLEASE try to avoid cutting out the hardwood below. If/when a future owner wants to open that wall back up, they will be sending lovely thoughts toward you if you keep the hardwood in place, because it is MUCH easier/cheaper to refinish it rather than trying to patch gaps in what is otherwise a perfectly good hardwood floor.
Signed,
Somebody in the middle of renovating a 1950s house who has decided to change a floorplan in order to avoid the hassle/cost of trying to fix gaps in the hardwood....
-
Tallpines & Sonofsven & Dancin Dog & Ihamo, Thanks so much for all the advice and suggestions.
I totally get what you all mean about changing the flow of the house. This is why we had to delay this until now, to make that decision.
We really need a room in that space, no questions about that. How we go about accomplishing that is something we will have to think through. Thanks again for all the feedback and ideas. Really appreciate that.
-
I have a question. I have a project I am working on where we are building a door. We are going to be putting tempered glass into dados cut in to the rails and styles. I wanted to be sure it does not rattle but also give a little room for expansion and contraction so the dados are slightly overcut in depth. My plan to stop movement/rattle is to put a little bit of hot glue in the bottom of the dados the glass sits in.
Does this sound reasonable? Since hot glue is flexible and soft this seems like it would work fairly well. Perhaps bathroom caulk would be better? It should ideally be a very long lasting solution, as the door basically cannot be disassembled due to the design, but pretty low stress of an application (no real force on it, no real uv light exposure or moisture).
-
I would use a silicone based caulking meant for windows and doors to prevent the glass from rattling. It will also help seal against wind and moisture infiltration and is flexible. Hot glue isn't flexible enough when dried so it will eventually crack and let in wind and moisture.
-
I would use a silicone based caulking meant for windows and doors to prevent the glass from rattling. It will also help seal against wind and moisture infiltration and is flexible. Hot glue isn't flexible enough when dried so it will eventually crack and let in wind and moisture.
Ahh I see the confusion. Sorry I meant a glue to use inside the dado (the crevice in the wood into which the wood is being inserted. The door is an interior (between two rooms) bifold door. Designed to let light from a window filled room. into a room lacking in natural light. No plans currently to put calk/glue where it would be visible/around the glass wood joints/meeting point. The dados should match the window glass pretty exactly if the woodshop cuts it to spec.
It does make sense though that hot glue maybe would not hold up. I can look for window/door clear caulk that silicone based, still sounds like a better alternative.
-
@tallpines I have a question for you If you are willing to provide input. I have been in the process of replacing an door in my old 1930s brick home that had lead paint and the casing. I have had a new door of a differing style built using a 180 degree folding door hinge https://milcasastore.com/products/compack-180-tri-fold-door-hardware-set (https://milcasastore.com/products/compack-180-tri-fold-door-hardware-set). It has turned out very heavy, as I largely expected (red oak with 3/8" tempered glass), ~90 lbs. Now when it comes to installing it I am finding myself hesitating. I would love your input.
I have put in a casing made out of 1x poplar (screwed up the corner where it meets, but I am leaving it for now), but I do not expect it to hold the door. Above the casing where the door hinge will be attached there is a metal lintel for the brick (see attached photo), it will be at the inner edge, near the trim. My plan is to get 2.5-3 inch masonry screws (something like Tapcon-3-16-in-x-3-1-4-in)and pre drill holes through the lintel and into the brick. Do you have any opinion about this plan? There are hole for 4 screws. Do you think this will be enough? Should I plan on using masonry anchors as well? Any opinions on brand/size?