Hey all,
I have a a couple fixtures in our yard that are the older style lampholder sockets with the globe sconces (these kinds of globes - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Newport-Coastal-Black-Coastal-Outdoor-Globe-Light-7791-03B/203355708 - not the fixture though: ours is super-dated compared to the pic). In either case, they are not very bright in general. Our small yard/patio gets dark at night too so not good to hangout back there in the evening or especially if I'm using the grill, etc. Can be pretty hard to see most of the time..
It would be nice to update the fixtures with ones that are more capable of better-illumination out there. Would something like this do the trick? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-2-Lampholder-and-Cover-White-S513WHEG/204193188 and then put LED lights in them?
I have a very similar floodlight (with motion sensor) over my garage doors with LED bulbs in it and I would say it will definitely put out enough light. However a normal light fixture can put out a fair bit of light (and LED bulbs can be higher "wattage-equivalent) that the fixture rating, so you might look into either a brighter bulb for your current setup or a nicer lamp.
I would be concerned that a flood light would be too bight for a close by location such as a gill (we use ours to light a a couple hundred feet of the driveway or most of the front yard, or a good bit of the hill out back) and they spread over distance if you are aiming them close to the fixture you may wind up with a very bright spot and dark around it. But, that will depend on you specific situation.
How straight forward the installation will be will depend on how correctly the current light was installed (some quick in dirty work is know to pull the wire through the wall and into the light without a box, but that isn't code).
Also, in the garage, we had one of these lampholder style fixtures: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/a/(KGrHqZ,!lQE5Y70R00YBO(ummuv3!~~/s-l300.jpg but my dad removed it and put a standard 2-outlet receptacle in. Of course, it's all loose and not mounted to anything... this is powering some shop lights he helped me hang. I'm thinking it would probably also be a good idea to change that up and install something a little more appropriate, like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-60-Watt-White-Ceiling-Socket/3540670 - it would be nice to have the second socket but not absolutely necessary... especially since right now both the sockets seem to be terminated to the light switch (this might just be a wiring issue that can be fixed though). That said, another option then would be to install one of these, http://www.lowes.com/pd/Raco-1-Gang-Round-Metal-Electrical-Box-Cover/3179239, to at least have the current receptacle *secured* rather than floating around. I'm just not sure about the sizing - the junction box behind the drywall is a bit small (maybe 3-3.5" ?), so it might be tricky trying to install the metal gang cover as it may require cutting drywall, which I don't want to get into...
Any thoughts?
By all means at the very least you need to put a face plate on the outlet to secure it (which will help prevent the wires from working their way loose or any other gremlins that can appear from flexing wires)and to reduce the risk of electrocution when you use the outlet.
If the box is not flush with the drywall . . . the correct thing to do is to get a box extender and bring it out flush to the drywall and then put the faceplate on (at least that is what I would do).
Why is trimming the drywall around the box a non-starter? It is easy to work with (a razor or drywall saw will cut it easily) and you already have the have the box is place to act as a guide if needed. I wouldn't be too worried about it plus it can be covered by a faceplate.
In short here is what I would do.
1) Get a box extender
http://www.garvinindustries.com/electrical-junction-boxes/round-pan-boxes/3-1-2-round/47111?gclid=Cj0KEQjwuJu9BRDP_-HN9eXs1_UBEiQAlfW39gsWkDqvukATuxzmCmGX_k48BbIib4PUi1qgzFXW2tQaAn1m8P8HAQ (or whatever size needed to bring the box flush with the drywall.
2) Install that extender and cut/file/sand drywall (whatever you are most comfortable) to accommodate the extension
3) Anchor your outlet or new light to the extension (which is part of the box and is not clamping against the drywall and pulling on the box as a light would)
4) Use an outlet cover that is bigger than your hole
http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/round-duplex-outlet-wall-switch-plates/ or a shop light (possibly the one you posted) which has a base somewhat wider than the box and any drywall cutting that is unsightly or slightly gapped will be hidden.
Actually, for the garage lampholder that was originally there, the wiring I'm seeing only includes 3 wires: white, black and copper. I'm assuming those are hot, neutral and ground? I've been watching Youtube vids for 'half-hot' or 'half-switched' outlets and all of them seem to indicate that a 4th wire is necessary. Since I don't have that, it doesn't seem like I'd be able to do that in this case...
Just to clarity when a wire is identified is is labeled as something like 14-2 with ground which means 14 AWG (american wire gauge) and 2 insulated wires (white and black) with a ground. Most people end up omitting the ground when talking, so it would just be 14-2 or you could say 2 wire.
You are correct in what the wires are (if everything was done properly) and you are also corrected without one always hot and one switched hot you cannot split the outlet between hot and switched.