Author Topic: Replacing Basement Window  (Read 8658 times)

kraggleflux

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Replacing Basement Window
« on: September 29, 2015, 11:46:18 AM »
Hello Mustachians,

I'm looking for some guidance. I need to replace a basement window that's very inefficient and rotting. I'll attach two pictures, one from the outside and one from in. The bottom piece of wood which research tells me is a buck is very soft, almost Styrofoam consistency. The other 3 sides aren't so bad. My plan was to remove the window, remove the bottom piece of the frame and replace with a new piece and then put a new sliding window to fit where the old was. I'm not terribly experienced when it comes to windows but it really doesn't seem like that big of a project. Does my plan make sense? Is there a particular type of window I should be ordering?


MrSal

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2015, 05:35:48 PM »
will follow this thread because we are in need as well of replacing ours in the basement.

Macrolide

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #2 on: September 29, 2015, 05:46:46 PM »
I'm in the same boat! I've got a lot a respect for the author of oldhouseguy.com and was thinking about trying Abatron. Anybody use this before?

http://www.oldhouseguy.com/wood-window-restoration/

3Mer

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #3 on: September 29, 2015, 08:13:37 PM »
Following, similar issues...

Papa bear

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2015, 08:34:55 PM »
I would tear out the frame completely and either install right up to the foundation wall, or rebuild the frame with treated 1x lumber and then install the replacement window in that.

They make hurricane glass that is recommended for windows that height but that is up to you. 

You could also go glass block with a vent and just mortar in to place. 


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ShoulderThingThatGoesUp

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2015, 07:58:20 AM »
I have apparently original (~1910) wood windows in my basement which I considered replacing. The wood is in fine shape, so instead I replaced the pane that had been a dryer vent, sanded, cleaned, and repainted with Home Depot's DeckOver paint. The quote for new windows was $500 each. In the winter I put foam blocks in the openings to help with insulation. But in the summer it's great to be able to air out the basement.

waffle

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2015, 08:08:33 AM »
I recently replaced a basement window. It was super easy. I don't know if I did it completely right, but so far it has been fine. My window had a steel frame around it and that was in good shape. I just bought a cheap home depot window for around $130 (45x36). I cut off the fins around the edges so it would fit and then shimmed/screwed it into place. Then I used the spray foam to seal any cracks between the window and the steel frame. When I get around to it I will caulk and paint the edges so the foam isn't exposed.

Noahjoe

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2015, 08:23:45 AM »
That window looks like a pretty standard size (most big boxes stock 3 or 4 sizes of basement sliders). I just replace 4 of mine that were something like 16x32 or 16x31 with an off the shelf sliding/dual pane window from Home Depot. Each window was 60 bucks or so. I removed ALL the wood/framing from the old window to get to bare concrete. I then removed the panes from the replacement window, leaving me with just the vinyl box. From here, I dry fit the window in the old hole, flush with the inside of the wall. Now you need to locate the screw holes in the frame and mark them on the wall. It will probably be easiest to use your drill bit (masonry bit, of course, probably 5/32) to make a dimple in the cement in each spot. Remove the window, set your hammer drill to the appropriate depth for the Tapcon water resistant screw you're going to use, and punch the holes into the cement. put the window back in, shimming if you need to in order to keep it squared in the hole. Mind you don't create a bow in it. Cap the screw holes (probably came in the same packages as the screws), put the panes/screen back in, and head outside. Caulk around the window with some good exterior grade caulk (and be sure to have cleaned the concrete first with a wire brush or somesuch). Let this set for a bit, then use some non-expanding Great Stuff inside to fill in any gaps between the new window and the wall. If you use the regular expanding stuff, you run the risk of bowing in your window frame and causing it to not slide/open well. I leave enough space that after it's dried I can also caulk the inside with paintable caulk to give it a better finished look (or you could trim it). I have a cement/sloped sill outside my windows, so I painted those with a waterproofer and called it a day. Worked magnificently, and my basement is much less buggy/drafty.

Tools:
1. Hammer Drill (I did one with a regular Makita LXT drill, and it takes -forever-). If you don't have one, you can get a Makita LXT hammer drill with battery and charger for 99 bucks shipped from Amazon. Stupendous deal.
2. Tapcon screws (or some other masonry/water resistant screw). Probably 5 bucks for a box of 'em.
3. 1 can of non-expanding great stuff (might be the light green can? Just make sure it's non-expanding).
4. one tube of caulk - exterior grade, paintable.
5. caulking gun. 2 bucks for the cheap one, which works great.
6. shims - composite is the only way to go for a basement.
7. masonry bit. Buy 2, just in case. I have had pretty good luck with Bosch bits from Home Depot. The Tapcon box will tell you what size you need.

total cost, all in if you bought the drill and all is probably about $200. There is probably no need for a custom window as the dimensions on them haven't really changed. And if they have, you can usually custom order a basement slider for about double the cost of an off the shelf one, so you'd still be all in at about $250.

index

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2015, 11:16:16 AM »
Replace the bottom piece of window frame. Repaint and reglaze the old window then add a storm window over it. There is really no need to replace it from an energy perspective.

argonaut_astronaut

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2015, 10:55:20 AM »
I removed ALL the wood/framing from the old window to get to bare concrete.

...

 put the window back in, shimming if you need to in order to keep it squared in the hole. Mind you don't create a bow in it. Cap the screw holes (probably came in the same packages as the screws), put the panes/screen back in, and head outside.

My basement didn't have any headers over the windows so the wood framing around the window was essentially holding that load. I would be curious if Noahjoe had any sagging prior to or after his window install?

When I redid my basement windows I put in temporary supports 3' into the basement to support the floor, removed the old window and framing, cut the joists 3" back from the ledger board and slipped in a pair of 2x10 in above the window. Then I put a treated 2x10 as the new sill plate and glued and ramset it in place. Then I glued/ramset in a treated 2x10 vertically between the sill and the new header against the foundation on both sides. I put another treated 2x10 on either side to help support the load. Followed that up by putting in a galvanized (not aluminum it doesn't play nice with treated lumber) L flashing on the sill and then wrapped all the wood with flexible flashing starting from the bottom up. I then shimmed/levelled/installed a nail fin window into my new treated wood frame using silicon caulk and galvanized nails (a pneumatic palm nailer makes nailing in a 3" nail next to a window less risky). Installed stick on flashing on the outside over the nailing fin. Installed trim over fin. Spray foamed the gap inside with low expansion foam.

Window got 3" narrower due to the extra jack stud, but it took the sag out of the floor joist that was supported by the old and rotting window frame. Also, using a nailing fin window with the frame all the way out doesn't give anywhere for moisture to accumulate since the glass is now flush with the rest of the house.

I can provide further advice if you would like.

Noahjoe

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2015, 10:23:25 AM »
Argonaut,

I either had a sill plate on the cement above the window, or a notch in the truss in which I replaced the old board. You do make a good point though that it's important to ensure any load that used to be carried is still carried. And not by a vinyl replacement window ;)

soupcxan

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2015, 06:40:26 PM »
You could also go glass block with a vent and just mortar in to place. 

Don't these windows have to open to meet code? For egress?

Papa bear

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Re: Replacing Basement Window
« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2015, 06:32:40 AM »

You could also go glass block with a vent and just mortar in to place. 

Don't these windows have to open to meet code? For egress?

A basement can't be a "living space" or bedroom without a second egress.  Egress windows are strictly regulated by size and height from the floor.  From the looks of it, it probably wouldn't be an egress window and wouldn't be required to open.

Here's a good popular mechanics article on it.  It's older but the only updates you would look for are your local code requirements.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/a158/1275596/


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