PVC elbow on toilet drain.

[R S]

I'm going to try my best to explain the issue. 

We bought a new home in April and noticed some toilet leaks Sunday.   Long story short the flange was rusted/disintegrated and some floor board was rotted.  That was all removed.    The old flange was glued directly around the spigot end of a 90 degree PVC elbow.   With the floor being replaced,  the easiest thing will be to cut out the 90 degree elbow and replace it.   If I just replace the elbow, the toilet will shit about 2 inches from where it was before.       My question is, I saw a there are regular 90 degree PVC elbows and there is a long sweep 90 degree elbow.   http://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-2-dia-90-Degree-PVC-Elbow-Long-Sweep-Fitting/50258763

Does anyone with experience know if the long sweep will gain me back the 2 inches I lose from cutting out the old elbow ?    Or more or less, so the toilet remains in the same position when I replace it.

[BudgetSlasher]

I think the long sweep are larger in both direction, which means using it would be longer (by how much I am not sure) and taller (which means it would not align with the current pipe.

how much access do you have to the drain pipe after the 90 degree? It might be easiest to cut a little extra pipe off use a union connector and add a section of pipe back to the same place and the one being remove.

[paddedhat]

Slasher is right on this, a long turn, or sweep elbow isn't going to help. You need to go back a bit further on the horizontal pipe, cut it clean, and use a "slip coupling" to make the repair. couple of tips on this. First, to make a clean cut line around the pipe, wrap the pipe with a sheet of paper, like a long piece of legal pad paper. Once the paper is squarely wrapped around, and the edge lines up, you can take a Sharpie, and trace the edge of the paper. This will create a perfectly square cut line. A slip, or repair, coupling is a little looser than a normal one, and it has no center stop. You slide it on to the existing pipe, lather both sides of the pipe joint, heavily, with PVC cement, then slide the coupling in place, with a twisting motion. Remember to mark the pipe so you know that your coupling is centered over the joint. You can replace the flange with a stainless steel one, which will eliminate the rust issue.

[R S]

thanks for the responses.   Exactly the info I was looking for. 

[R S]

Update on this thread so I'm mostly done with the repair.  I have the flooring cut to size but then run into a problem.   

Basically i just tried to recreate what was there from the beginned,  which was a 3 inch drain pipe and elbow with an over the pipe flange.   I purchased a 3-4 or 4-3  oatey flange that goes inside a 4 inch or over a 3 inch.  The problem is once I replaced the flooring,  the flange is not long enough to fit snugly over the drain pipe.     The elbow is the same size as before and so is the flange,  so I guess it's because I had to cut the old elbow off and lost 1.5 inches of inclined run??     

 Frustrating.   So my question is what do I do now?    FInd a flange that is long reaching,  prop up the drain pipe with a 2x4 underneath it to give it an extra 1/2 of height?      My Dad told me he doesn't like the idea of an over the drain flange in the first place.  But like I said,  I was just recreating what was originally plumbed in.   

[Miss Piggy]

If I just replace the elbow, the toilet will shit about 2 inches from where it was before.       

Hhhhmmmmm...interesting.

Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

[paddedhat]

You wouldn't be the first remodeler who used a piece of blocking between the floor joists to gain an extra 1/2" of height on a drain line. If you have a fairly long horizontal run, it typically isn't a big deal. If you are really stressing joints, since the run is short, you may end up stressing and cracking fittings. At this point, give it a try. Sorry that it's such a struggle, this kind of work can be a bitch. I have had situations where reworking large size drains, in a tight area, involved two guys, a lot of sweat and literally beating the connections into place with a 12 LB. sledge. Sometimes plumbing can be like sausage making. It works well when you are done, but you would rather not think too hard about how you got there. Good luck.

[R S]

Well I tried to prop up the drain pipe.  I got it up some but not enough for my piece of mind.  I have a couple options.   this one

https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Flo-40056-Adjustable-Closet-Flange/dp/B005E83NR0

or

https://www.amazon.com/CLOSET-FLANGE-SIOUX-MfrPartNo-888-GPM/dp/B000ZOK6X2/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TTNKZR9M90HK1HW49RWJ

any recommendations?

[paddedhat]

First one is ABS which doesn't bond well to PVC, according to plumbing codes, which in my area, does not allow the combination to be glued together. 
the second choice seems to rely on the rubber gasket, which is fine as long as you can trim the downpipe and relocate the gasket, if the whole assembly is too tall, This "Sioux Chief" product sits on the shelf at my local big box stores, BTW.

[R S]

I was wondering why one was black and one was white.   Shows how green I am at plumbing.   I thought to myself "why would anyone care what color flange they had?"

So I ordered this one instead.  I went to the local HD today during my lunch break and the barrel on the Sioux flange was only an inch longer than the original flange that was too short.   Found this one. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E83NCA/ref=pd_sbs_201_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXSBJTFEVSRD7S8TD24R
Should do the job finally.

I gotta say, despite the pain in the ass it was a good experience doing this on my own and saved me about $400.

[Goldielocks]

Idk... But, when I tiled my floor with new underlayment, the toilet was now 1/2 inch high than the flange.

It did not matter because the flaw get bolts still reached with room to spare. and I used a deeper "extra thick" wax seal ( instead of adjusting the flange). Would that help?  Note, the toilet bolts need to reach and secure the bowl to the floor.

[R S]

my problem is the flange barrel reaching the drain pipe after having to remove 1.5 inches of the drain pipe to replace a flange.  The drain pipe no longer comes up flush with the subfloor.  Different situation.

[Goldielocks]

my problem is the flange barrel reaching the drain pipe after having to remove 1.5 inches of the drain pipe to replace a flange.  The drain pipe no longer comes up flush with the subfloor.  Different situation.

Okay...  but "drain pipe / flange no longer comes up flush with sub floor"-- that is the same problem after you raise the floor 1/2" and don't move the flange up at the same time -- the flange sits in a nice little "hole" or depression at the original subfloor level..... at first I thought you had a difference more than 1/2" but sounds like you nearly closed the gap so far.. 

 I guess your problem is that you do not have a flange connected yet, so the gap is between the flange and the pipe, and not the bowl and the flange..

Honestly,  I just cut out the drain pipe (with grandpa's help) further back along the horizontal run, and extended it with coupling / 23 degree join, etc...

[R S]

It's  my first time,  but you're right.   The flange is not yet connected.   I cut it flush against the old 90 elbow and with the layout of the bathroom, the 1.5 inches the toilet would shift was actually a plus.  Anyway,  i was very surprised that that mere 1.5 inches made such a difference in the drain pipe height.   I'm now waiting for the flange with an extended barrel to arrive.   I couldn't find it in a store so I had to order it.   It should do the trick.  once we lay a new floor in there, (probably in the next 6 months)  I'll probably be doing what you did with the seal.