the only real way you can do anything without cutting more holes is to blow it in place. I'd do fiberglass before I did cellulose because cellulose is gross, dusty, settles, and will probably wick more moisture. It doesn't look like the 2x4s would support a person crawling around up there. All of the suggestions are good, but there's no way you can do anything with foam (sheets or spray) or really even a moisture barrier for that whole length without opening it up. If you're not going to open it up, blow in fiberglass and call it a day. It'll be worlds better than it is now.
If you want to do it right, I'd open it up and probably do the foam sheet against the wall. even 1" (R6 if you do blue/pinkboard) would be a huge step in air sealing it. Then I'd Great Stuff around it (Great Stuff is actually closed cell). From there I'd tack in a barrier on the lower level to keep it from falling out if ever you are poking around in there again later. Then i'd blow in a ton of Fiberglass to desired R-value. Or you could foam board it with 2x2" foam board for an R-20 value, though that stuff gets expensive fast. it'd be easy to install though if you opened up the space a bit more. I'd still Great Stuff/air seal around it.
My .02. It'll cost you a little more to do it, but it'll be done right. I get so, so, so mad when people shortchange themselves (or the next homeowner) on projects like this. I used to sell building materials, so it's a sore subject for me ;)