Help me put the finishing touches on my DIY oil change

[Manguy888]

Hey all,

Starting in the new year, I've begun doing my own oil changes on my 2008 Scion and my wife's 2011 CRV. I got some good tools for Christmas, bought some rhino ramps, torque wrench, etc. I'm loving it so far - it is really a great new hobby.

One concern I have is that all I'm doing is changing the oil. I'm worried about other little things falling by the wayside that might have been done automatically when I brought my cars to oil change places. Things like fluids getting topped off. Obviously windshield wiper fluid is one, but that's an easy one - I'll just buy a jug.

Can some smart mustachians chime in with other things that should get checked or topped off every 5000 miles or so when I change my oil?

I do know to use the car's maintenance manual, so I should catch items like cabin and air filters.

Thanks in advance!

[JLee]

Tires should be rotated every ~5k, but that's likely in your manual already.

The vast majority of things to worry about should be in the manual -- it'd be a good idea to check tire pressures and all visible fluid levels (brake fluid, clutch fluid if applicable, coolant reservoir).

This reminds me, I need to rotate my tires..

[Le Poisson]

I think a lot of DIY guys miss greasing the ball joints etc. Buy a grease gun and a cartridge, and figure out how to use them, and where. Again - should be in the owner's manual, that failing look in Chilton's or on youtube.

I bought an air powered grease gun a few years back - don't get one of those. Its useless lying on the ground.

Have you got a trolley jack and tire chocks? If nbot I suggest you get them and use them. The spare tire jack is not safe.

[JLee]

I think a lot of DIY guys miss greasing the ball joints etc. Buy a grease gun and a cartridge, and figure out how to use them, and where. Again - should be in the owner's manual, that failing look in Chilton's or on youtube.

I bought an air powered grease gun a few years back - don't get one of those. Its useless lying on the ground.

Have you got a trolley jack and tire chocks? If nbot I suggest you get them and use them. The spare tire jack is not safe.

Most (if not all) ball joints I've replaced in recent memory were sealed, but yeah - if there are grease points, that's good to do as well.

[bobechs]

I think a lot of DIY guys miss greasing the ball joints etc. Buy a grease gun and a cartridge, and figure out how to use them, and where. Again - should be in the owner's manual, that failing look in Chilton's or on youtube.

I bought an air powered grease gun a few years back - don't get one of those. Its useless lying on the ground.

Have you got a trolley jack and tire chocks? If nbot I suggest you get them and use them. The spare tire jack is not safe.

Most (if not all) ball joints I've replaced in recent memory were sealed, but yeah - if there are grease points, that's good to do as well.

Sure, and while you are at it file and gap the points, set the dwell and make sure the choke stove tube is in good shape.

[HipGnosis]

Check coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and auto.transmission fluid levels.
Check the battery terminals for corrosion.

Check your brake pads every time you rotate the tires.  Replacing pads is so easier and cheaper than going to long and then needing to replace the pads, calipers and rotors.

Pro-tips
Loosen the bolts that you would use to change the brake pads a quarter of a turn and re-tighten them each time you rotate the tires.  This ensures you have the tool to remove them and keeps the bolts from corroding solid.
Put your oil filter numbers in your phone - then you can take advantage of sales you come across.

Your next DIY;  spark plugs

[paddedhat]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

[HipGnosis]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

I document everything on my computer.
Besides printing and copies of receipts being overkill, I can't do that because I buy oil by the case and oil filters when they're on sale.
I don't need a mileage reminder for any of my 4 vehicles because I change them all at odometer readings that are divisible by 5,000.  Each odometer is a reminder.

[Chris22]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

I just write the date and mileage on the receipt for the filter and staple the oil receipt to it.  No need to get fancy. 

[Syonyk]

One concern I have is that all I'm doing is changing the oil. I'm worried about other little things falling by the wayside that might have been done automatically when I brought my cars to oil change places. Things like fluids getting topped off. Obviously windshield wiper fluid is one, but that's an easy one - I'll just buy a jug.

When you remove the air cleaner housing to check or replace the air filter, be sure to put it back incorrectly so it doesn't seal and has a large unfiltered air leak into your engine.

Once you've done that, leave the screw for mounting it that no longer seems to line up in the windshield well around the wipers.

Don't forget to lose the crush washer so the car leaks.  Bonus if you try to fix this by tightening the oil plug enough to crack the drain pan.

Lose any parts related to a quick drain plug.  The worm gear clamp to keep it closed definitely doesn't matter.

If you can occasionally forget to fill the engine with oil, this would help approximate "quick lube" places.  A good way to do this is to remove the transmission drain plug, then fill the engine with the expected quantity of oil.  8 quarts in a 4 quart engine and a bone try transmission are, clearly, superior.

:p

(I don't like quick lube places - only part of this list are things I've personally experienced)

[zolotiyeruki]

Syonyk might be exaggerating (maybe), but the point stands--all those things that the quick-lube places are supposedly checking are probably not actually getting checked.

Personally, I start the oil draining, then check all the other fluids and filters while I wait.  Transmission, brake, power steering, antifreeze, windshield.  Tire pressure, air filter, windshield washers, belt tension.

Your owner's manual will have a good, solid checklist of things to check/replace/flush at various intervals.  Follow that, and you should be ok.

[paddedhat]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

I document everything on my computer.
Besides printing and copies of receipts being overkill, I can't do that because I buy oil by the case and oil filters when they're on sale.
I don't need a mileage reminder for any of my 4 vehicles because I change them all at odometer readings that are divisible by 5,000.  Each odometer is a reminder.

It depends on how you see the end of the line for a particular vehicle. If you are going to drive the thing into the ground, anything you chose to type into your computer will serve you well. If you are going to sell and maximize your return, a sharp file of hard copy maintenance records and receipts is invaluable. I typically have gotten returns in the book "dealer price" range,  while selling my used cars privately, and they sold fast. They are always well cared for, nicely detailed, and come with a complete, verifiable history from the day I bought them.  If I'm looking at a vehicle, and the seller can only present a printout of what was allegedly done, absent any documentation, I value it just like an auction car. It has no documentation, and needs to be priced as such. JMHE, but having proper receipts is far from "overkill" as you claim.

[Bajadoc]

Use a Flashlight to inspect everything you can see. Even in a shop with good lighting a flashlight is necessary to see what is there. Look for leaks, anything loose or out of place. Look for road pickup (plastic bags, leaves, sticks), anything that does not belong. Check all fluids for amount and condition. Check and clean the battery terminals. Look for rust, pealing paint, burnt or melted spots. Check the tire condition and pressures. Write down mileage and date of the oil change. Read the owners manual and note when routine maintenance is due for all working components. Make sure to use the correct oil as advised in the owners manual. Look from above and below the car. A flashlight is the most overlooked and important tool. Use your seatbelt and drive at full attention. Car maintenance can be fun and rewarding. Or a real drag depending on your outlook.

[bobechs]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

I document everything on my computer.
Besides printing and copies of receipts being overkill, I can't do that because I buy oil by the case and oil filters when they're on sale.
I don't need a mileage reminder for any of my 4 vehicles because I change them all at odometer readings that are divisible by 5,000.  Each odometer is a reminder.

It depends on how you see the end of the line for a particular vehicle. If you are going to drive the thing into the ground, anything you chose to type into your computer will serve you well. If you are going to sell and maximize your return, a sharp file of hard copy maintenance records and receipts is invaluable. I typically have gotten returns in the book "dealer price" range,  while selling my used cars privately, and they sold fast. They are always well cared for, nicely detailed, and come with a complete, verifiable history from the day I bought them.  If I'm looking at a vehicle, and the seller can only present a printout of what was allegedly done, absent any documentation, I value it just like an auction car. It has no documentation, and needs to be priced as such. JMHE, but having proper receipts is far from "overkill" as you claim.

But when you get  t-boned in an intersection by a guy running a stop sign, taking his kids to school, neither his nor your insurance company is going to care how meticulous your logbook is.

Then it becomes overkill.  As long as you aren't roadkill.

[paddedhat]

But when you get  t-boned in an intersection by a guy running a stop sign, taking his kids to school, neither his nor your insurance company is going to care how meticulous your logbook is.

Then it becomes overkill.  As long as you aren't roadkill.

Great comment.

 I have bought and sold at least 35-40 cars in the last forty + years, and been T-boned and screwed over by my insurance company at least, well let me count............... oh yea, never. Now I know to never again waste another few minutes, after cleaning my tools, to document all the care, time and money spent on my vehicles. Hell, I could be carrying the file folder one day, and get taken out by a meteor. I'm heading for my desk to burn the receipts immediately.

Thanks for the valuable contribution.

[Clean Shaven]

Couple random things -

Don't open the brake or clutch fluid unnecessarily - inspect with a flashlight if needed. Don't open these just to top off a tiny bit of fluid, so long as you're safely within the full/add lines. If you do open these, clean the exterior well beforehand.

Don't spill brake fluid on paint. If you do, clean up immediately, use plenty of water.

Disposable gloves keep your hands much cleaner.  Harbor Freight has them for cheap.

Cheap clay based cat litter is a great absorbent for oil spills. Wipe up whatever you can first, sprinkle some litter, grind it into dust with your shoe. Leave for a day or three.

If your coolant levels are mysteriously dropping with no sign of leaks (no visible drips, no crusty residue), check all radiator and heater hose clamps for tightness.

Safety glasses are important. Use them.

[Manguy888]

Check coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and auto.transmission fluid levels.
Check the battery terminals for corrosion.

Check your brake pads every time you rotate the tires.  Replacing pads is so easier and cheaper than going to long and then needing to replace the pads, calipers and rotors.

Pro-tips
Loosen the bolts that you would use to change the brake pads a quarter of a turn and re-tighten them each time you rotate the tires.  This ensures you have the tool to remove them and keeps the bolts from corroding solid.
Put your oil filter numbers in your phone - then you can take advantage of sales you come across.

Your next DIY;  spark plugs

Thanks so much - this is a great rundown.

[Papa Mustache]

Remove spark plugs only when the engine is cold though...

[hedgefund10]

Don't forget to document everything you do. I take a professional label maker and print out a label with the next oil change mileage. As in, current odometer reading plus 5K. This goes on the inside of the windshield, high and to the far left. Then I use word, or similar, to write a summary of all work performed, date and mileage. I print this out, then overlay my receipts for the oil, filter and any other parts and fluids used on this sheet, and make a copy. This goes in the car's file folder.

Not only do I then know exactly what I have done to the car, it creates a real impressive paper trail for any buyer, in the future.

I document everything on my computer.
Besides printing and copies of receipts being overkill, I can't do that because I buy oil by the case and oil filters when they're on sale.
I don't need a mileage reminder for any of my 4 vehicles because I change them all at odometer readings that are divisible by 5,000.  Each odometer is a reminder.

It depends on how you see the end of the line for a particular vehicle. If you are going to drive the thing into the ground, anything you chose to type into your computer will serve you well. If you are going to sell and maximize your return, a sharp file of hard copy maintenance records and receipts is invaluable. I typically have gotten returns in the book "dealer price" range,  while selling my used cars privately, and they sold fast. They are always well cared for, nicely detailed, and come with a complete, verifiable history from the day I bought them.  If I'm looking at a vehicle, and the seller can only present a printout of what was allegedly done, absent any documentation, I value it just like an auction car. It has no documentation, and needs to be priced as such. JMHE, but having proper receipts is far from "overkill" as you claim.

Just because you bought oil, doesn't mean you changed the oil. If a person takes the time to write down what they "allegedly" did, I take this with the same weight as someone who writes down what they "allegedly" did and has receipts.

[dess1313]

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

i want to get one of these soon to make oil changes less messy!

[Syonyk]

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

i want to get one of these soon to make oil changes less messy!

Those are nice, but they're slow.  Very small drain hole compared to the stock drain plug.

Not a big deal for most cars, but I've got one in my truck, and an oil change involves tossing a 5 gallon bucket under there, popping the valve, and going to do something else, because it'll take 10 minutes to drain.  There's... a lot of oil involved.

[bradne]

Take that same professional label maker (mentioned above) and make a label showing what size wrench your drain plug requires.   Put that label in a prominent place under the hood.  This saves you from climbing under your vehicle multiple times or with multiple wrenches.  I also have a label showing how much oil my engine takes and the filter model. 

Buy your filters in bulk either from Amazon or Fleetfilter.com or similar.  They don't expire so stock up. 

Some people only change their filters every other oil change.  I change them every oil change.  They are fairly cheap and good insurance. 

Make sure your engine is warm before you start.  Warm oil drains much better.  Use caution when you are poking around a warm engine compartment though. 

If you can, fill the oil filter with oil before installing it.  Make sure you place a thin layer of oil on the rubber gasket.  This keeps the gasket lubricated when you tighten it (no binding).   Filling the filter allows the engine to build up oil pressure much faster when you start it.  Only do this if your oil filter is mounted in the vertical position.  If the filter is at an angle or 90 degrees, you will just dump the oil out when you are installing it.

Use quality filters (wix) and synthetic oil (mobile 1).  I used to like Fram filters until I took one apart and compared it to a wix.  Napa filters are relabeled Wix.  If you do buy one in the store, open the top and look at the mating surface before you buy it.  I have found some (usually Fram) with rust all over the top of the filter. 

Buy a large pan that is placed under your drain pan.  I usually call this a "cookie sheet" and is a 3 foot by 4 foot pan with about a 1/2 inch lip designed to catch any loose spills when you are working on your vehicle.  You can get them at your auto parts store. 

Get the formed metal oil filter "cap style" wrench for your filter.  This will save you a lot of aggravation.

After you get the filter and drain plug replaced and put in the oil, start the engine and run it for a minute or so.  Shut off the engine and check both the drain plug and filter for leaks.

As mentioned, stay away from the "quick" oil change places.  Something about a 18 year old kid making minimum wage crawling around under my vehicle just gives me bad vibes. 

[dess1313]

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

i want to get one of these soon to make oil changes less messy!

Those are nice, but they're slow.  Very small drain hole compared to the stock drain plug.

Not a big deal for most cars, but I've got one in my truck, and an oil change involves tossing a 5 gallon bucket under there, popping the valve, and going to do something else, because it'll take 10 minutes to drain.  There's... a lot of oil involved.

Huh.  The ease of being able to not pour oil over my hands and directly into a container with little or no mess would be worth it as i have no garage to work in.

[patrat]

Don't do the drain valve, if it ever fails you just lost a $3000 engine. One nitrile rubber glove costs about $0.10. Just use gloves.

[Tremeroy]

Pro-tips
Loosen the bolts that you would use to change the brake pads a quarter of a turn and re-tighten them each time you rotate the tires.  This ensures you have the tool to remove them and keeps the bolts from corroding solid.

Fantastic advice. I recently ended up having to use a shop to replace my pads & rotors because I could only get about 20% of my bolts loose. Going forward, you had better believe that I'll be keeping the bolts in good shape!

[Syonyk]

Don't do the drain valve, if it ever fails you just lost a $3000 engine. One nitrile rubber glove costs about $0.10. Just use gloves.

Same is true of an under torqued drain plug.

Most failure reports I see involve the valve being hit by something. So maybe not for your off road vehicle.

[Clean Shaven]

I've used Fumoto valves on several cars, for over a decade now. They're great. No leaks, but as pointed out above, they do drain a little slower.

[JordanOfGilead]

Remove spark plugs only when the engine is cold though...

Learned that one the hard way with my first car ...

[Joggernot]

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

i want to get one of these soon to make oil changes less messy!

Those are nice, but they're slow.  Very small drain hole compared to the stock drain plug.

Not a big deal for most cars, but I've got one in my truck, and an oil change involves tossing a 5 gallon bucket under there, popping the valve, and going to do something else, because it'll take 10 minutes to drain.  There's... a lot of oil involved.

I use these on both the Accord and the Tacoma.  Prep for changing oil; open the valve.  Remove the oil filter and replace.  Check the joints/bushings/etc. under the vehicle.  Check the exhaust.  Now the oil has drained out and you can close the valve and add the new oil.

Edit: I've used these since 1973 on various vehicles and never had a problem.

[Manguy888]

This thread has been great! thanks for everyone's help. I've done two oil changes since starting this thread. Purchased and learned how to use a torque wrench. Based on some recent advice I'll also buy and learn how to use anti-seize liquid.

I also started testing my battery when I do oil changes, and this actually helped me identify an under-performing battery ( so THAT was why it seemed to struggle before starting). Replaced it myself - no problem.

Follow up question: My CRV maintenance code is telling me it's time to rotate the tires. I've been hesitant to do so because I've heard that any time you take the wheels off you need to 'balance them'. Anyone believe this is truly necessary? And if so, can it be done at home?

 -

[Le Poisson]

You only have to balance tires if you take the tire (rubber) off the rim (steel).

You can rotate them anytime using the tools you already have. Here are patterns most recommend. Pick one of the three and stick with it.



I like to use a paint marker and put a code inside the rim so I know the tire's position and rotation. ie. Number the tires 1-4, then in the glovebox or maintenance log, record which position the tires are put on. The log entry might look like this: T1 - RF, T2 - LF, T3 - RR, T4 - LR (decoded: Tire 1 - Front Right, Tire 2 - Front left, T3 - Rear Right, T4 - Rear Left)

[HipGnosis]

I also started testing my battery when I do oil changes, and this actually helped me identify an under-performing battery ( so THAT was why it seemed to struggle before starting). Replaced it myself - no problem.

Okay, but...
Was the battery low because it wasn't holding a charge or was it low because the charging system wasn't charging it enough?
The shade-tree charging test is to turn on the headlights and point the car where you can see the light on something.  They usually get a little bit brighter when the engine is given just a bit of gas as the higher RPMs give more charge.

[Manguy888]

I came to the battery conclusion because my car was slow in turning over, and the issue seemed to be worse on cold days, but no worse after long drives. That second point made me assume it wasn't an issue with battery recharging. Completely me making an educated guess with inference but no real knowledge.

That's a great tip about hitting the gas, and much more straightforward than my method. Thanks!

[JLee]

This thread has been great! thanks for everyone's help. I've done two oil changes since starting this thread. Purchased and learned how to use a torque wrench. Based on some recent advice I'll also buy and learn how to use anti-seize liquid.

I also started testing my battery when I do oil changes, and this actually helped me identify an under-performing battery ( so THAT was why it seemed to struggle before starting). Replaced it myself - no problem.

Follow up question: My CRV maintenance code is telling me it's time to rotate the tires. I've been hesitant to do so because I've heard that any time you take the wheels off you need to 'balance them'. Anyone believe this is truly necessary? And if so, can it be done at home?

 -

Keep in mind that the use of anti-seize changes the clamping force at a given torque value. 
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anti-seize-and-over-torquing-bolts.604971/
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8-general-discussion/429903-what-torque-setting-reduction-should-used-anti-seize.html

This thread has been great! thanks for everyone's help. I've done two oil changes since starting this thread. Purchased and learned how to use a torque wrench. Based on some recent advice I'll also buy and learn how to use anti-seize liquid.

I also started testing my battery when I do oil changes, and this actually helped me identify an under-performing battery ( so THAT was why it seemed to struggle before starting). Replaced it myself - no problem.

Follow up question: My CRV maintenance code is telling me it's time to rotate the tires. I've been hesitant to do so because I've heard that any time you take the wheels off you need to 'balance them'. Anyone believe this is truly necessary? And if so, can it be done at home?

 -

A small point of clarification; those patterns won't work if you have directional tires. I have one car with directional tires and another with staggered, so my rotating options are limited or non-existent. :P

[Manguy888]

RE anti-seize: that's really interesting - thanks for the tip. You'd think they'd list any impact on torque on the packaging of the liquid itself.

RE tire rotation: thanks for the note. I checked my manual and my tires and they are not directional. The manual suggests option C (as shown in Prospector's picture above). Sort of hard to wrap my head around how to do option C with 2 jack stands

[Tremeroy]

Sort of hard to wrap my head around how to do option C with 2 jack stands

Use the spare!

[Le Poisson]

Sort of hard to wrap my head around how to do option C with 2 jack stands

Use the spare!

You beat me to it!