Paint a car with canned spray paint?

[Unionville]

My husband has a 25 year old car that runs pretty good but the paint is cracking off pretty bad.  We don't care if it looks good. We just want to protect the car from deterioration.  I'm artistic.  Do you think I could just sand it down, and then spray paint it canned  paint?  I thought I'd start just by trying to do the trunk since it is the worst. So far, my biggest obstacle is figuring out "where" to do it.  I live in a dense urban area with tight parking and near the coast (wind).

[Sjalabais]

The paint dries quickly, if you can borrow a garage/party tent for a night, that should be enough. I've rattlecanned three cars and it's never beautiful. These cans are intended for small fixes; bigger flat spaces like hood and roof are hard to get nice. As with all these things, preparation is everything. Do you basically just want to fill in the cracks or is there rust? In either case, consider the price of spray cans, too. If looks truly mean nothing, you might want to look at other metal paint to brush/roll on, too.

Good luck! :)

[Cannot Wait!]

When I sold my clown car and bought a beater (thanks MMM!), I ground off the rust, primed and painted around the wheels rims.  Colour matched perfectly and it looked great...for about a month!  😣 Then the rust came back.  So disappointed.

[Clean Shaven]

Might want to look into the cheapo Maaco type places for a complete spray job. I've read that you can actually get reasonable results from them, if (and this is critical) you do all the prep work yourself, ahead of time. This means sanding, rust repair, body filler, etc.

[Sjalabais]

I guess CW's experience is pretty universal. It's so hard to get rid of rust. Once I prepped an old Volvo  240 and myw ife needed to drive a visitor to the train station.  Our other car wouldn't start. That little drive of about 10 miles was enough to make me visibly see how I needed to go over most of the spots one more time. There are some primers that work as rust converters,  but these claims don't realy hold truth. Some of this stuff is so acidic it actually attacks the good metal.

So, yeah, have low ambitions. Just refreshing tired paint should go well though.

[HipGnosis]

I've painted a few motorcycles with canned spray paint.
You 'can' get nice results, but it's quite labor intensive.   Are you going to use a power sander?  I can't imaging hand sanding a car, or even a trunk lid.
One motorcycle I painted 3 times - because the first paint job didn't turn out right (orange peel effect) and the 3rd time was because canned spray paint doesn't stay nice very long.  Real auto paint is mixed with a hardener right before it's sprayed, which makes it much more durable.
You can buy better quality spray paint on-line, but it costs more and still isn't 'real' auto paint.

Might want to look into the cheapo Maaco type places for a complete spray job. I've read that you can actually get reasonable results from them, if (and this is critical) you do all the prep work yourself, ahead of time. This means sanding, rust repair, body filler, etc.

I've heard that too.  I'd add you remove all trim.  And they have sales twice a year.

But, before I do that, I'd use a rental paint booth - not sure what the generic name is.
You rent the space and all equipment required, and buy the paint & supplies from them.  The one by me is: 'U-Spray'.

[darknight]

I painted my old beater hand-me-down truck with spray cans. Everybody says "it's all in the prep" and it is. But if you use cheap paint it will be terrible. Honestly go with a semi flat or flat paint (not shiny). I painted my old truck flat tan that looks like an army truck. It took me longer removing unwanted old chrome trim than it did to prep it. Buy a couple sanding blocks and use a 5 gal bucket of water and wet sand the entire thing. It won't take too long, maybe an hour or 2. Then scrub it down really good and a car wash and let it dry a few days.
Then use blue masking tape and tape off antenna, door handles, windows etc anything you don't want painted.
Then the paint- I used Rapco spray paint cans. Don't go too cheap on paint, it makes a huge difference. The rapco paint is military match for color (black tan green etc) that is very durable and goes on thick. Here is the exact thing I bought: http://www.rapcoparts.com/sppaperca.html
I had a can left over after painting an entire extended cab long box truck. The truck had rust that I lightly sanded and it's been 4-5 months and no rust coming through yet! It doesn't require primer if there is already paint on the vehicle. I've received numerous compliments actually on the truck, even though it's a beater truck that was bought new in 1978 by my grand-parent-inlaws. At least it's one color and i'm not ashamed to drive it around. Previously it was burnt orange, red, rust, brown ugly.. haha.
Hopefully this helps, I was glad to be into the entire thing for $100 and have it look infinitely better.

Edited-I painted mine outside, I actually did it in steps as I had time here and there to go paint for 20-30 min. I'd wait for not-too-windy days to do it. Painting in a driveway shouldn't be a real issue. Maybe even go drive out to the edge of town/field park or developing area.

[v10viperbox]

Look into rustolimum roller paint jobs. I do it all the time for the cheap race cars that we have for Lemon's and the like.  It will keep the rust from spreading and will take a hammer hit and not crack to much. Looks better then most Maaco jobs under say 500$. 

[Sjalabais]

@darkknight, thoroughly impressed about effort, effectiveness and value-for-money in your little project. Looking good! Around here, all cars rust. Tectyl/Mercasol is applied on every single new car's undercarriage and has to be renewed regularly. The brown pest just makes everything so much more complicated.

[Schelde]

Harbor Freight has inexpensive spray guns.  I bought a small one on sale for $10.  You'd still need a compressor to supply air, respirator, etc.  You might also look into renting a rig to paint with.  I doubt the application will really be the expensive part.  Don't be intimidated, spray guns are extremely easy to use.

[postvmvs]

I have done this before on an old beater truck, mainly to prevent rust from spreading. My experience is that it looked pretty good from a distance when initially done, but turned cloudy after about a year (I think from the sun). Also, rust is always stronger than you.

[Blatant]

I've done this several times. I second the Rapco paint idea; that stuff is awesome. I also second the spray gun vs. rattle can method. Until you've attempted to rattle a large surface, you have no idea how difficult it is.

You can buy the Rapco military paint in regular cans rather than rattle. If you have an auto paint shop, you can buy hardener as well. Find a friend with a garage and a nice air compressor, buy a cheap Harbor Freight gun and you're set. It'll turn out really nice if you prep well.

[darknight]

I have done this before on an old beater truck, mainly to prevent rust from spreading. My experience is that it looked pretty good from a distance when initially done, but turned cloudy after about a year (I think from the sun). Also, rust is always stronger than you.

True true.. I'm going to be trimming fenders where the rust had eaten through when it eventually gets bigger tires. I did use name brand flat paint on a portion of of the truck and it got cloudy after a few months in the sun. After doing some research on paints, Rapco is a new level and has been great so far!

[darknight]

I've done this several times. I second the Rapco paint idea; that stuff is awesome. I also second the spray gun vs. rattle can method. Until you've attempted to rattle a large surface, you have no idea how difficult it is.

You can buy the Rapco military paint in regular cans rather than rattle. If you have an auto paint shop, you can buy hardener as well. Find a friend with a garage and a nice air compressor, buy a cheap Harbor Freight gun and you're set. It'll turn out really nice if you prep well.

Agreed- my only holdup on buying it in the non rattle can was paying the extra Hazmat fee (rattle cans don't have the fee)

[Gibbelstein]

If I ever have a project that I can use as an excuse for it, I would like to take Viper's suggestion above, the Rustoleum roll-on method.  It seems to be durable, and you don't have to worry about overspray in crowded areas, etc.  Most importantly, if you want it to, it can look pretty good.  Also, it seems like it could be a conversation starter if you're into that sort of thing. 

Here are a couple of descriptions:
http://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-fitzgerald/how-paint-car-bucket-rust-oleum-and-roller
http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

So, if you're taking requests....
=)

[Papa Mustache]

I used to roll on acrylic enamel with a bit of hardener added to it. Used a short nap foam roller. Roll it on the regular way, wait for a little bit, glide over it with the same roller with no additional paint and hardly touching the surface and you can get a good gloss that is smooth.

I have used industrial/agricultural paint from a farmer's co-op store before. Comes in rattle cans, quart cans and gallon cans. They sell hardener there too. It is an enamel paint. $25 for a gallon last time I used it and it comes in many popular tractor colors! ;)

This paint - where I live in the south - can last 5-6 years outside (maybe more) and looks nice. Not deep or plastic looking like two part automotive paint (urethane and clear coat) but good like a good basic paint job.

Alternatively there is "fleet grade" paint. It is glossy like new car paint but costs much less than two -part automotive paint. It is really glossy and needs to be sprayed. You need a good $40 respirator to be safe. Your surface prep needs to be good or the gloss will reveal every surface imperfection.

Lastly I've done the Rustoleum route on bicycles and motorcycles. Gloss is similar to the agricultural paint I mentioned. The rattle cans are not cheap. Look at a quart can and a spray gun. Seems to be durable if the surface prep is well done.

[Sjalabais]

Agricultural paint that lasts 5-6 years sounds like a lot of expense and time spent for a short expected life? Are you thinking of rust, peeling, spots?

[Unionville]

Some of you asked for a photo of the problem.  Here is part of the trunk.  It's getting these kind of cracked patterns all over it.  I live in the San Francisco bay area, so we don't get much rain/rust. It's a 27 year old Honda Civic.

[Unionville]

here's a close up of the crackling all over:

[trammatic]

Glen from ToSimplify painted his VW with red bedliner all over.  It's been a few years and seems very durable.

[zolotiyeruki]

Glen from ToSimplify painted his VW with red bedliner all over.  It's been a few years and seems very durable.

That's what I want to do with my car, but it's a LOT of money for all that bedliner.

[Papa Mustache]

Agricultural paint that lasts 5-6 years sounds like a lot of expense and time spent for a short expected life? Are you thinking of rust, peeling, spots?

How long are you planning to keep the car? Another decade? The paint is $40 a gallon and I'll bet a gallon would be enough. I suspect if this car needs a paint job it is either 15+ years old in the south (paint sun beaten) and less up north (rusting due to salt).

My measure is 5-6 years until the gloss begins to fade. I think the paint will last alot longer but it just won't be shiny. I have 12+ year old basic acrylic enamel on one of my cars. Its find but starting to fade. I never once waxed it.

If rust is a problem, I suspect it will continue to be a problem b/c while the outside appearance might be improve, rust never sleeps and will continue to gnaw on the chassis in hidden places.

A friend recently had their sun beaten car repainted by a shop. $1750.

Re: Your picture - you are looking at paint which is "crazing" - i.e. sun has baked it so long that the paint and/or clear coat is falling apart.

The one picture also looks like a bit of rust stain is peaking out. Is it because the panel is going to rot through or is it because the paint is lifting and the metal below is rusting? A little work with a piece of sandpaper would reveal that mystery.

Another idea: see about letting a trade school paint your car on the cheap.

[paddedhat]

I have nothing of value to add here, but thanks for everybody who contributed so far. This is a fascinating thread, and I've learned a lot. I love the old Ford pickup, I had a '78 that was unkillable, the down side was that it was a baby blue (factory color) that was almost too ugly to be seen in, LOL.

[acepedro45]

I rattlecanned the hood, roof, and a few trouble spots on a 13-year-old Chevy Cavalier a year ago. There were a few rust spots but it was mostly prompted by the cracking, blistering paint from a lifetime in the sun. Right from the beginning, it was obvious that it was an amateur job in certain lighting conditions but it was a big improvement.

A year later, the car still looks decent but the hood paint has started to fleck off where it's been hit by little rocks and pebbles at highway speeds. All together, the job cost a little more than $100 but the real cost was the HOURS of doing all that sanding by hand. I doubt I'd repeat the exercise without a power sanding tool and I'd still be a little worried about inhaling harmful bits of paint dust. I used a mask, but still...

[hoping2retire35]

Lol, just looking at getting a color matching paint pen and primer for my new MMM approved van. Also have a family '65 ford pickup that needs painting, its ugly yellow primer at the moment with spots of rust and one rusted out spot and a bad hood.

[steviesterno]

I'll be doing this with rhino liner on my truck shortly. It's all in an air compressor sprayer. this kit comes with the liner and hardener. will be about $200 since I have the tools, but getting it done professionally costs $5,000. looks bad ass and protects your vehicle too.

[M2 pilot]

Have you considered Plasti Dip?  I've never used it but it generally gets good comments on some of the car forums & seems simple enough to use.

[Metric Mouse]

I painted my old beater hand-me-down truck with spray cans. Everybody says "it's all in the prep" and it is. But if you use cheap paint it will be terrible. Honestly go with a semi flat or flat paint (not shiny). I painted my old truck flat tan that looks like an army truck. It took me longer removing unwanted old chrome trim than it did to prep it. Buy a couple sanding blocks and use a 5 gal bucket of water and wet sand the entire thing. It won't take too long, maybe an hour or 2. Then scrub it down really good and a car wash and let it dry a few days.
Then use blue masking tape and tape off antenna, door handles, windows etc anything you don't want painted.
Then the paint- I used Rapco spray paint cans. Don't go too cheap on paint, it makes a huge difference. The rapco paint is military match for color (black tan green etc) that is very durable and goes on thick. Here is the exact thing I bought: http://www.rapcoparts.com/sppaperca.html
I had a can left over after painting an entire extended cab long box truck. The truck had rust that I lightly sanded and it's been 4-5 months and no rust coming through yet! It doesn't require primer if there is already paint on the vehicle. I've received numerous compliments actually on the truck, even though it's a beater truck that was bought new in 1978 by my grand-parent-inlaws. At least it's one color and i'm not ashamed to drive it around. Previously it was burnt orange, red, rust, brown ugly.. haha.
Hopefully this helps, I was glad to be into the entire thing for $100 and have it look infinitely better.

Edited-I painted mine outside, I actually did it in steps as I had time here and there to go paint for 20-30 min. I'd wait for not-too-windy days to do it. Painting in a driveway shouldn't be a real issue. Maybe even go drive out to the edge of town/field park or developing area.

That looks fantastic!  Doesn't hurt that that is such a great body style. Love it.

[Tom Bri]

I have done this three times. Twice with rattle-cans, and once with roller and brush. The roller and brush was a lot more work, but looked better.

As for rust coming back, I just kept an eye on the car and re-sanded/painted wherever I saw new rust. It took several months, but eventually I got all of it sealed away clean, and after that it never came back.

The hardest thing was actually taping and covering the windows! Very annoying, and ALL windows have to be completely covered whenever you spray paint, or the mist will float over the car and you end up with lightly misted windows on the off side. It comes off easily with a razor blade, but an annoying extra step.

[Papa Mustache]

Just did some spray painting with Rustoleum on a vehicle. Rattle can Rustoleum primer, some glazing putty and Rustoleum out of a gun. Looks darn good for the tiny investment I put into it.

[gliderpilot567]

When I was stationed in Korea we would buy cheap ass beater cars (most of them over 20 year old Hyundais and even older Datsuns) for literally a few hundred bucks and drive them around... they would be handed down from one GI to the next year after year. One day we decided to go buy a ton of rattle cans and painted them all up like Nascars from Talladega Nights. We had a wonder bread car, an old spice, a perrier car, and something else that I forgot. It was awesome. Then of course we proceeded to play bumper cars with them...

[Cannot Wait!]

As for rust coming back, I just kept an eye on the car and re-sanded/painted wherever I saw new rust. It took several months, but eventually I got all of it sealed away clean, and after that it never came back.

This inspired me so I went out and sanded it back down.  The rust is deep though and right through in one spot.  Is there any hope for this?
The second pics the other side, I haven't sanded it back down yet.

[zolotiyeruki]

As for rust coming back, I just kept an eye on the car and re-sanded/painted wherever I saw new rust. It took several months, but eventually I got all of it sealed away clean, and after that it never came back.

This inspired me so I went out and sanded it back down.  The rust is deep though and right through in one spot.  Is there any hope for this?
The second pics the other side, I haven't sanded it back down yet.

My car has the same issue in the same spot.  Looking for advice as well :)

[Tom Bri]

As for rust coming back, I just kept an eye on the car and re-sanded/painted wherever I saw new rust. It took several months, but eventually I got all of it sealed away clean, and after that it never came back.

This inspired me so I went out and sanded it back down.  The rust is deep though and right through in one spot.  Is there any hope for this?
The second pics the other side, I haven't sanded it back down yet.

My car has the same issue in the same spot.  Looking for advice as well :)

Bondo works.

[Cannot Wait!]

I bondoed my car!  Thanks for the tip.
Here's a pic after I bondoed and primed it.  Still need to sand and paint.  "Before" pic in the post up thread.

[Tom Bri]

I bondoed my car!  Thanks for the tip.
Here's a pic after I bondoed and primed it.  Still need to sand and paint.  "Before" pic in the post up thread.

With Bondo you can pretty easily even out the dips and dents. Lay it on a little thick and then file or sand it down to level.

The rust will often come back, if you have not entirely removed it before starting, so you may need to grind it down again and repaint.