Oil Change

[randymarsh]

What are the miles? If they are over 100k I would go to a high mileage blend. I like MaxLife stuff myself. I wouldn't go right to synthetic. Just my opinion.

Just crossed 51,000.

[Mr.Macinstache]

What are the miles? If they are over 100k I would go to a high mileage blend. I like MaxLife stuff myself. I wouldn't go right to synthetic. Just my opinion.

Just crossed 51,000.

If you are using conventional now, I would stick with it. If you don't have problems, keep it consistent. There's no reason to go to a synthetic IMO. I would do oil changes at 5k miles and keep it the same brand. When you get up around 80-90k, then think about using that brands "high mileage" version of a synthetic blend.

[more4less]

I buy boxes with 12 quart bottles of conventional oil at Costco for $40 ($34 if they have promotion). I order filters online. Btw, any reviews for Mann filters ($3 for my car at autohausaz.com with free shipping on $50+ orders)?
I don't see point in buying synthetic oil if you're not driving some sports car or live in very cold/hot climate. I used to drive a cab when I was in college, and we had cars running to the legal limit beyond which you can't use it as a taxicab in SF - 350000 miles, all the way on cheap Napa oil. Also, engine of my grandpa's 1960 Volga M21 was rebuilt at 400000 kms - it never had a drop of synthetic oil in its life.

[Jack]

I switched to synthetic on my old truck not because I think it'll work better, but because I didn't want to have to change it so often. I intend to use a 6000 mile interval instead of the 3000 mile one I was using before.

[Spork]

I buy boxes with 12 quart bottles of conventional oil at Costco for $40 ($34 if they have promotion). I order filters online. Btw, any reviews for Mann filters ($3 for my car at autohausaz.com with free shipping on $50+ orders)?
I don't see point in buying synthetic oil if you're not driving some sports car or live in very cold/hot climate. I used to drive a cab when I was in college, and we had cars running to the legal limit beyond which you can't use it as a taxicab in SF - 350000 miles, all the way on cheap Napa oil. Also, engine of my grandpa's 1960 Volga M21 was rebuilt at 400000 kms - it never had a drop of synthetic oil in its life.

The point: oil breaks down.  Synthetic oil does not.

Double your time between oil changes.  From a cost point: it is about the same.  From a laziness standpoint: it is not.

[Mr.Macinstache]

IIRC our 04 HHR manual told us to change the oil at 6k intervals and it called for conventional oil. Under normal driving conditions on a modern engine, I don't see why you couldn't go 6k miles on conv oil between changes.

[more4less]

The point: oil breaks down.  Synthetic oil does not.

Double your time between oil changes.  From a cost point: it is about the same.  From a laziness standpoint: it is not.

Um, I've already doubled it already without switching to synthetic. I tend to trust car's manual and my experience more than Jiffy Lube's recommendations. But again, it's me. Y'all folks use your common sense and your good judgement.

[Jack]

The point: oil breaks down.  Synthetic oil does not.

Double your time between oil changes.  From a cost point: it is about the same.  From a laziness standpoint: it is not.

Um, I've already doubled it already without switching to synthetic. I tend to trust car's manual and my experience more than Jiffy Lube's recommendations. But again, it's me. Y'all folks use your common sense and your good judgement.

With synthetic, you should probably be able to just about double it again (give or take using a high-quality filter).

[SavingMon(k)ey]

So, this shop in town is running a Groupon for a VIP card for 6 oil changes, 6 tire rotations, and 6 safety inspections for $29.99. I just called them to ask some details. The card doesn't expire, the oil is up to 5 quarts of regular (not synthetic), the filter brand is Protec. I have to pay the disposal and tax for each, which is about $4.50. You have to make an appt about 2 days in advance and it takes them about 2 hours. It's about 5 miles from my house. Is this a good deal?

[Spork]

So, this shop in town is running a Groupon for a VIP card for 6 oil changes, 6 tire rotations, and 6 safety inspections for $29.99. I just called them to ask some details. The card doesn't expire, the oil is up to 5 quarts of regular (not synthetic), the filter brand is Protec. I have to pay the disposal and tax for each, which is about $4.50. You have to make an appt about 2 days in advance and it takes them about 2 hours. It's about 5 miles from my house. Is this a good deal?

IF the appointment/2 hour wait doesn't bother you... and you're pretty sure they won't go under.... it's probably a good deal.  I believe Protec is actually a Wix-made filter.  (No idea what brand of oil you're getting or how good a protection it provides.)

Around here (Texas) tire rotations are notoriously free and safety inspections have a price regulated by the state... so those are hard for me to judge.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

So, this shop in town is running a Groupon for a VIP card for 6 oil changes, 6 tire rotations, and 6 safety inspections for $29.99. I just called them to ask some details. The card doesn't expire, the oil is up to 5 quarts of regular (not synthetic), the filter brand is Protec. I have to pay the disposal and tax for each, which is about $4.50. You have to make an appt about 2 days in advance and it takes them about 2 hours. It's about 5 miles from my house. Is this a good deal?

IF the appointment/2 hour wait doesn't bother you... and you're pretty sure they won't go under.... it's probably a good deal.  I believe Protec is actually a Wix-made filter.  (No idea what brand of oil you're getting or how good a protection it provides.)

Around here (Texas) tire rotations are notoriously free and safety inspections have a price regulated by the state... so those are hard for me to judge.

The shop has been around for quite a while. The 2 hours don't bother me because I could do it on a Sat and go for a nice bike ride on the trail near there.

I called again to ask about oil brand. It's Valvoline. So are Protec filters a decent brand?

[Kevan]

Remember that such places offer cheap inspections, rotations, or oil changes (all low-tech, greasemonkey-type services) because they provide the opportunity to sell more services.  What you save on the cheap stuff can evaporate in an instant if you overpay on any additional service or product.  Consider all angles.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Remember that such places offer cheap inspections, rotations, or oil changes (all low-tech, greasemonkey-type services) because they provide the opportunity to sell more services.  What you save on the cheap stuff can evaporate in an instant if you overpay on any additional service or product.  Consider all angles.

Thanks for the reminder. I ended up buying the Groupon and I guess I'll see how it goes. Yes, I will have to make sure I don't buy other services without shopping around/deciding whether they are really necessary. This is a full service shop, not a Grease Monkey type place, so they might want to tell me something else is wrong.

One question I have is what's a good schedule for all the other fluids to be flushed/changed?

[Mr.Macinstache]

Protec is a the low grade filter made by Wix. Being its made by them I think you should fine under normal driving.

Other fluid changing schedule should be in your owners manual.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

Thanks, Mr. Macinstache! I will take a look. I've been logging all my car services carefully.

[bandito]

Here is Ontario you can't get an oil change under $30 which would be the cheapest oil and filter.  The cheapest oil is about $10 - $15 for 4.4 litres and about $5 for the filter. I prefer to do it myself.  My vehicles always run better after each change.  When I go to a garage I never notice a difference after an oil change and I figure they use a much lower quality of oil then we can buy off the shelf of put on a used filter or something. I usually try to get the oil and filter on sale which can save $10-$30.

That's me two cents.

[ketchup]

Btw, any reviews for Mann filters ($3 for my car at autohausaz.com with free shipping on $50+ orders)?

Mann is the OEM oil filter for my Volvo.  If they're good enough for Volvo, they're probably good enough for whatever other car.

[gimp]

This thread is awesome.

I need to learn how to change my oil. Not entirely to save money, but for two reasons:

1. I drive across the country. As such, I use the highest-mileage synthetic oil. It works quite well. On the highway, my car uses just under 1% oil life / 100 miles. It takes into account speed, RPM, gear, load, etc. Quite smart. I suspect that it's calibrated for the cheapest oil and I actually get more life than the car says, but I've never experimented. What this means is that I absolutely need the guys who change my oil to use the oil and filter I specify. If they don't, I might be seriously shit out of luck. So far so good but I don't want to trust other people with this. (Currently my M.O. is to call a place that has a promotion for a $20 change, and say "How about you charge $20 but I supply the oil and filter" and they pretty much can't pass that up.)

2. My longest trips were/are around 5000 miles, mostly through decently-populated areas. I know, I know, New Mexico and Nebraska and Oklahoma and all of those lovely states don't have that many people, but they're still decently populated... compared to my upcoming 7500-8500 mile trip to Alaska. When I'm in East Nowhere, USA, I know I can still find a shop within a couple hours' drive. Where I'm going, there will be areas with nothing for an entire day. So I'd like to change my oil myself... my car will make it just fine but I'd rather still change it halfway through.

I've got a jack, a pair of 3-ton jackstands, etc... the only things I'm missing are the wrench to pop the cap off, a bucket for the oil, and experience.

[FunkyStickman]

No better time to learn than now. It's easy. I just did the oil in my minivan, hardest part was finding the funnel (I couldn't, so had to pour carefully).

[Spork]

I've got a jack, a pair of 3-ton jackstands, etc... the only things I'm missing are the wrench to pop the cap off, a bucket for the oil, and experience.

Unless your car is super low to the ground, it's unlikely that you'll need to jack it up.  I've had lots of cars over my driving career and only one of them requires a lift to reach the oil plug/filter. 

[MrsPete]

Noticing your screen name, it might be worth mentioning this: 

Our auto shop teacher loves to have his students change the oil in teachers' cars.  It's done under his supervision, and he charges us the price of the oil. 

[Mr.Macinstache]

This thread is awesome.

I need to learn how to change my oil. Not entirely to save money, but for two reasons:

1. I drive across the country. As such, I use the highest-mileage synthetic oil. It works quite well. On the highway, my car uses just under 1% oil life / 100 miles. It takes into account speed, RPM, gear, load, etc. Quite smart. I suspect that it's calibrated for the cheapest oil and I actually get more life than the car says, but I've never experimented. What this means is that I absolutely need the guys who change my oil to use the oil and filter I specify. If they don't, I might be seriously shit out of luck. So far so good but I don't want to trust other people with this. (Currently my M.O. is to call a place that has a promotion for a $20 change, and say "How about you charge $20 but I supply the oil and filter" and they pretty much can't pass that up.)

2. My longest trips were/are around 5000 miles, mostly through decently-populated areas. I know, I know, New Mexico and Nebraska and Oklahoma and all of those lovely states don't have that many people, but they're still decently populated... compared to my upcoming 7500-8500 mile trip to Alaska. When I'm in East Nowhere, USA, I know I can still find a shop within a couple hours' drive. Where I'm going, there will be areas with nothing for an entire day. So I'd like to change my oil myself... my car will make it just fine but I'd rather still change it halfway through.

I've got a jack, a pair of 3-ton jackstands, etc... the only things I'm missing are the wrench to pop the cap off, a bucket for the oil, and experience.

You could probably get away with 2 ton stands... but do not ever get under the car lifted by your factory car scissor jack.

JMHO but I would use a shop if I was traveling. You could even supply them with the filter and let them use a quality brand name oil.

[gimp]

Thanks for the responses!

- Buick Regal 2000. Do I need jack stands to change the oil?

- Jack and stands are also in case of other things, like the tire dying.

- I know never to get under a jack. Hence the jackstands. And something like a brick under my rear tires to make sure the car doesn't roll back or forward.

- 3-ton jackstands were a few bucks more expensive than 2-ton jackstands. My car approaches two tons, so I figured why not. And I got a pair because again, why not.

- Yeah, I'd rather just get a shop to change it. I've got enough to worry about when driving a thousand miles a day...

[Spork]

Thanks for the responses!

- Buick Regal 2000. Do I need jack stands to change the oil?

If you can get a catch pan under it without lifting it up and can reach the plug from the front or side of the car, you won't need jack stands.  Most cars are high enough that you can lay on your back and just reach back and unscrew it. 

My car that requires a lift is a Triumph TR6.  It's so low to the ground that a jack won't fit under it if the tire is flat.  I scrape every speed bump no matter how slow I go. 

Try it.  If you cant get to it: you'll have to lift it.

[gimp]

I will try it.

I also scrape most speed bumps, but that's due to this piece of plastic/rubber on the front of my car apparently called a bottom feeder. So it might not be too low after all.

[Kevan]

I can change the oil in my van without raising it, but I've always had to raise passenger cars.

[prodarwin]

Wow.  Out of 18ish cars I've owned, I can only think of one I could change the oil on w/o ramps/jacking it up:  1985 CJ7.  I don't even think a drainpan would fit between the oil-pan and the ground on most of my cars.

That said, a great substitue for ramps in college was to just drive one side of the car up on a curb.

[Paul der Krake]

I keep jacks in the car at all times, along with a toolbox of essentials and a flashlight. Especially with older vehicles, you never know when you'll need to get under to troubleshoot something away from home.

A pair can be had for $25. If you have even the slightest intention of fixing something one day (and enjoy an immediate spurt of manly mustache growth), get one. It's money well spent.

[FunkyStickman]

I used to use jackstands, but they tend to scratch up the frame, and with newer unibody cars, there's not really a good place to put them. For some jobs, you just have to use them (with a black of wood or something) but I use ramps to change oil now. Much faster. And all of my vehicles are too low to comfortably crawl under with a pan... maybe I'm just getting old? Lol.

[Spork]

Wow.  Out of 18ish cars I've owned, I can only think of one I could change the oil on w/o ramps/jacking it up:  1985 CJ7.  I don't even think a drainpan would fit between the oil-pan and the ground on most of my cars.

That said, a great substitue for ramps in college was to just drive one side of the car up on a curb.

try a shorter drainpan.  ;)

We've got a Mustang GT.  It's pretty darn low.  I never jack it.  (The only gotcha is you have to know it has TWO oil drains instead of one.)

[Mr.Macinstache]

Some front wheel drive cars don't play nice with those drive up ramps... My little Civic liked to spit them forward.

I still prefer the wooden cribs under the front tires to change the oil or work underneath.

[FunkyStickman]

Some front wheel drive cars don't play nice with those drive up ramps... My little Civic liked to spit them forward.

I still prefer the wooden cribs under the front tires to change the oil or work underneath.

Agreed, my car is very low, and even the "long" incline ramps rub a little. I used ramps on my van, not because I needed them, but it's just easier to move around under there, and takes very little time to use them as opposed to jacks and stands.

[prodarwin]

Some front wheel drive cars don't play nice with those drive up ramps... My little Civic liked to spit them forward.

I have a set of 2x12s with a mitered end I put in front of the ramps to get the car higher off the ground to begin with.  Some of my cars have/had to be driven onto the wood just to get high enough to get a low-profile jack under them.

[jba302]

Wow.  Out of 18ish cars I've owned, I can only think of one I could change the oil on w/o ramps/jacking it up:  1985 CJ7.  I don't even think a drainpan would fit between the oil-pan and the ground on most of my cars.

That said, a great substitue for ramps in college was to just drive one side of the car up on a curb.

I miss my TJ. Just had to lay down under it and do whatever work was needed. Maybe once again when the diesel versions finally come out, easier to justify near 30 mpg instead of mid teens.

[SavingMon(k)ey]

That said, a great substitue for ramps in college was to just drive one side of the car up on a curb.

I've thought of that, but wouldn't that cause the oil not to drain out completely because of the tilt?

[Kevan]

I've thought of that, but wouldn't that cause the oil not to drain out completely because of the tilt?

You never really get all of the oil out; what remains is trivial.

Just drive up onto some bricks or boards.  That should raise most cars enough for an oil change.  Bring lots of old newspaper.

[Mr.Macinstache]

That said, a great substitue for ramps in college was to just drive one side of the car up on a curb.

I've thought of that, but wouldn't that cause the oil not to drain out completely because of the tilt?

Depends on how the drain plug is oriented.

[Mr.Macinstache]

Some front wheel drive cars don't play nice with those drive up ramps... My little Civic liked to spit them forward.

I have a set of 2x12s with a mitered end I put in front of the ramps to get the car higher off the ground to begin with.  Some of my cars have/had to be driven onto the wood just to get high enough to get a low-profile jack under them.

My Civic is almost like that..it sits pretty low. A low profile jack barely slides under.