Author Topic: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg  (Read 814 times)

DeniseNJ

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Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« on: April 12, 2021, 07:04:00 AM »
Apparently a common problem in Toyota engine, the timing chain tensioner cover gasket, I think, is leaking oil. Which I think is my fault bc I think I put slightly too much oil when I changed it. So I'm going to try to fix that.

And I tried to take the tire off to fix the broken lug nut stud and couldn't get the tire off to save my life.  I got all the nuts off but that tire wouldn't budge. On Youtube they just fall off when you take the nuts off. Mine was like crazy glued on. Everything was hard and took longer and after a few hours, I got nothing done, and now I'm depressed that maybe I don't actually know what I'm doing. Even the transmission plug was dripping after I changed the filter and put in the new crush washer even though I know I torqued it to spec. 

And looking at the struts with the car jacked up, which took yrs to do with my scissor jack, I saw the rubber boot was shredded, so I either buy two boots and take everything apart, including the springs, to get the new boots on or just buy all new struts and not worry about them forevermore. Buying a new lift today from Harbor Freight so that at least that will be easier. And the starter makes a grinding noise when I first start--sounds like the bendix gear is not catching right away on the flexplate. It's not every single time so it sounds like some teeth are damaged.

I don't think it's as bad as it feels though--it just needs a new wheel stud, o-ring for the chain tensioner, front struts, and maybe some work on the starter. But still, . . .

Sitting in my driveway pulling at that tire, I knew that by the time I got that tire off, everyone else would be driving flying cars.  :( 

ChickenStash

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2021, 11:00:28 AM »
For the wheel, it's not at all unusual for the center part of the wheel to "stick" to the bearing hub or brake rotor. It's particularly common in areas where the roads are salted in winter. A few good whacks against a 2x4 on the back of the tire/wheel with a hammer or heel usually get it done. A few squirts of PBlaster, Kroil, or some other penetrating lube before starting helps, too. Make sure the car is well supported on jack stands before wailing away at it, obviously.

DeniseNJ

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2021, 12:05:32 PM »
I'll try the wheel again. I've also watched couple of videos on it so maybe the penetrating fluid and a whack will do it.  Raining today and yesterday so I'll try again soon.  Thanks.

Artem_F

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2021, 12:57:27 PM »
if the wheel is stuck, I use the following method - put all the bolts back, but do not tighten them up. Move your car forward and backwards and hit the brakes a couple of times - usually, this is enough to break the bond. You won't damage anything this way.

JLee

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2021, 01:47:36 PM »
If you're in/near Passaic County, shoot me a PM - bring your car over and we'll get the wheel off.

DeniseNJ

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2021, 06:00:21 AM »
If you're in/near Passaic County, shoot me a PM - bring your car over and we'll get the wheel off.

That's so sweet!  Thanks.  My plan is to spray lubricant on the center, loosen the nuts on the ground, then drive slowly up and down the driveway, mushing the wheels back and forth, then jack up the car with my new good jack, and if the wheel doesn't fall off, set it on fire. Or kick it. Or hit it with a hammer.

EricEng

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2021, 08:21:01 AM »
Dumb mistake I made with a stuck wheel once...make sure the manual brake is OFF.  Second idea is some wheels have a breaker screw hole.  You get the right size and crank it in with a big breaker bar and it will force the wheel off.

JLee

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2021, 08:29:20 AM »
Dumb mistake I made with a stuck wheel once...make sure the manual brake is OFF.  Second idea is some wheels have a breaker screw hole.  You get the right size and crank it in with a big breaker bar and it will force the wheel off.

Brakes won't impact the wheel - are you referring to brake rotors (with an internal drum for parking brake)?

JLee

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2021, 08:31:23 AM »
If you're in/near Passaic County, shoot me a PM - bring your car over and we'll get the wheel off.

That's so sweet!  Thanks.  My plan is to spray lubricant on the center, loosen the nuts on the ground, then drive slowly up and down the driveway, mushing the wheels back and forth, then jack up the car with my new good jack, and if the wheel doesn't fall off, set it on fire. Or kick it. Or hit it with a hammer.

You can use a soft deadblow hammer on the wheel, or an engineering hammer / small sledge over a block of wood (otherwise you will damage or destroy your wheel). When you put the wheels back on, some anti-seize around the hub bore can prevent it from getting stuck again.

Sandi_k

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2021, 05:02:29 PM »
Harbor Freight jackstands have been recalled due to faulty welds and collapsing. Both the original AND THE REPLACEMENTS.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/harbor-freight-jack-stand-recall-safety-tips/

For something that is suspending the weight of a car over me, I'd go higher quality.

Car Jack

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Re: Now an oil leak . . . and other issues. uhg
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2021, 06:35:06 AM »
if the wheel is stuck, I use the following method - put all the bolts back, but do not tighten them up. Move your car forward and backwards and hit the brakes a couple of times - usually, this is enough to break the bond. You won't damage anything this way.

^this

Don't be shy doing this.  Finger tighten the nuts.  Back up an nail the brake pedal to the floor.  If that doesn't work, forward and nail the brake again.  You will get it off.  Coat the hub with some lubricant (doesn't make any difference what it is) to keep this from happening again.  If you don't have a torque wrench, get one.  Everyone, including shops seem to think lugnuts need to be full on gorilla tight.  That stretches the threads on the studs and breaks them.  Look up the specs.  Likely for this car is only 75 foot pounds.  That is NOT a lot.  If some hack mechanic zipped on the nuts with an impact gun, don't be surprised if they're 200 foot pounds.  They should never be difficult to remove with the factory 1 foot long lug wrench.  Do you know why they give you a 1 foot lug wrench with the car?  It's to keep you from applying full on gorilla torque when you tighten the lugs.