Nissan Versa 2008 stalls, what to look first?

[Le Barbu]

Here's the problem I encounter now with a Versa 2008, 120,000 miles
Yesterday morning, hesitate, battery light comes on, then everything recovered. Yesterday night, after fueling, did the same then stalled. About 1 hour later, started fine, I brought it home and pulled the codes:

P1148
P0031
P0311
U0000
U0001
B0000

After another our, friend next to go home but had to walk the last mile because it stalled again!!!

What should we do first? It´s week-end, workshops are closed (most of them), friend need the car for work on monday. I'm handy with cars but don't know the Versa much, neither this issue

Any thought?

[Heckler]

Put a battery charger on it to start.

[Heckler]

You could also Google all the codes and get real confused.

http://engine-codes.com/p1148_nissan.html

[HawkeyeNFO]

Find the Nissan Versa forums on the internet.  Certainly others have had similar problems with their Nissan Versa.  MMM is good advice on several topics, but I don't ever come here for technical advice on cars.

I use the Chevy S-10 forums for my 19 y/o pickup truck, and a different forum site for my '03 TrailBlazer.  Have saved thousands by keeping these vehicles running myself, when other would have taken them to the garage or even gotten rid of them.

[TreeTired]

Put a battery charger on it to start.

    And make sure the cables are clean and connected properly.   The first symptoms you described could be caused by poorly connected cables.   I like to go for the simple stuff first.  Beyond that,  you are on your own! 

[StartingEarly]

I had a motorcycle that did that.  It had a loose battery terminal.  Clean them up, get a small packet of battery terminal grease from the car shops for a buck or two and tighten them down very snug.

[Le Barbu]

Forget the battery, we got it started and drive that 1 mile back home at 10MPH. Full throttle, medium or pulses just get the same result, no power, no speed. +/- 10MPH all the way. I guess it's related to that A/F sensor thing

[StartingEarly]

low voltage will make a huge difference, a bad contact with the battery terminals will cause a voltage drop.  That will make a lot of devices act screwy.  Always check the battery before throwing parts, no matter what the codes say.

[Le Barbu]

low voltage will make a huge difference, a bad contact with the battery terminals will cause a voltage drop.  That will make a lot of devices act screwy.  Always check the battery before throwing parts, no matter what the codes say.

I did clean the battery terminals, tightened them and even "plugged" a battery-pack over the battery to make sure to overcome  voltage issue while driving home

[data.Damnation]

The code P1148 indicates a bad O2 sensor. Does the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe stink? Does it idle rough? If your O2 sensor is bad, your car has to guess how much fuel to inject into the engine. If it guesses wrong, you get these symptoms plus the stalling issue you're seeing.

[Le Barbu]

I dont know about the hexaust but the idle is fine, no power from the throttle. It´s like driving on idle...

We dont want to mess anything, I think a diagnosis from a mechanic should be the next step on monday.

[Le Barbu]

Garage replaced alternator for 75$ and problem is solved. It did not cleared the check-engine light and the codes but the car drives fine...for now

Would it worth to plan replacing the sensor anyway?

[guitar_stitch]

Pull the battery cable for a few minutes to reset the computer (or use your OBDII scanner...).  Start fresh from there.

[Le Barbu]

I'll give a try, but my friend told me the Check Engine light is on for 6 months now and the mechanic told her the sensor is bad. She did not get them to replace it because car was going fine and she dont want to spend 200$ on that. So, I do not expect it to clear but I sure let you know

[Stash Engineer]

Garage replaced alternator for 75$ and problem is solved. It did not cleared the check-engine light and the codes but the car drives fine...for now

Would it worth to plan replacing the sensor anyway?

So one theory is that the faulty alternator made the battery run low and it didn't have enough voltage to fire the plugs properly.  Therefore, raw fuel was dumped into the exhaust, fouling the o2 sensor.  Unhook the battery to clear the codes if you don't have a scanner.  I wouldn't replacing the sensor unless you get another code after driving 10+ miles.

[Le Barbu]

I will try this