Author Topic: New toilet selection, and how to install? $70 vs $300 toilet? any difference?  (Read 26719 times)

kamas

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What toilet do you recommend? Is there anything in particular to look for? Single piece, two piece, etc?  Im guessing installation is pretty straightforward, but i will appreciate if you give me any tips and tools I will need, like not forgetting to put the wax ring!

Is there any real difference between a $70 toilet and a $300 toilet?

I have to replace an old toilet, it looks like it was pretty expensive (online searches show it as $300) but nobody makes parts for it anymore, and IF i happen to find a necessary part, the cost of the part and shipping will be about $50. I think its better to just replace this thing instead of dealing with this hassle every time the flapper or something needs replacement.


Miss Piggy

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I just went through this. Here are some decisions you'll need to make:

- One-piece vs. two-piece (one-piece will cost more)
- Round vs. elongated bowl (I happen to hate the elongated, but most other people must like it because it's getting harder and harder to find the round models
- Standard flush vs. touchless flush (needless to say, touchless is going to cost more)
- White vs. other colors

I chose a very, very non-mustachian toilet. I won't embarrass myself here by sharing the price, but it is a one-piece round bowl with a touchless flush system. This is for the only bathroom on the main floor of our house, so it's the one guests use. And it's a small bathroom, so I wanted a compact model (hence the round and not elongated). I also didn't want white. And since I'm DIY'd out due to being in the middle of a mostly DIY kitchen gut & remodel, I'm hiring out the toilet installation (also because it's going on top of a brand new tile floor, so I want it done right). After installing (well, attempting to install, anyway) a new faucet a few days ago (and the hot water doesn't work), I've decided plumbing just isn't my thing.

lizzzi

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You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

zolotiyeruki

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If they weren't so expensive, I'd want a pressure-assist toilet, so it doesn't clog as easily.  Toilets with larger outlets (3" instead of 2") are less likely to clog as well.

I've heard that lower toilet seats put you in a more ergonomically...suitable position.

The Japanese-style automated toilets are pretty awesome.  I don't know how much they cost, but heated seats, it washes and dries your backside....it's pretty swanky.  Certainly not mustachian. :)

RichMoose

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If you, or a friend, have a membership you can't beat Costco for a quality toilet at a good price. Theg carry a 2 piece and a 1 piece. 2 piece being cheaper of course.

alsoknownasDean

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What about water efficiency? Do they have 3L per flush toilets there?

Cyaphas

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This really depends on your size and how/who is going to use the toilet.

If it's going in your master bedroom, get one of the silent closing lids. If you're a big person get a 'handicap' taller toilet with an elongated bowl.

Do you like bidets? There are some excellent ones on Amazon.

Are there small children going to be using the toilet? Go with a smaller less high toilet. Look into the 3 partition seats with built-in seats for the little ones.

Want to just go cheap? Get the parts replacement kit.

Is the toilet in an older home? On a wood or cement floor? When you pull the toilet you may find you need to do more work than you're initially anticipating.

My family are all quite large. Out of my 7 male cousins not one is under 6' 2." We've always replaced the toilets with elongated handicap toilets whenever we've moved into a home. We also install handles around them for elderly or just larger people in general.

My fiance installed some nice smaller toilets in her home that have the half flush function. They're ecologically thoughtful but I personally don't like the press button function or having to tuck certain body parts into a bowl that don't fit there.

dess1313

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Low flow are nicer on the wateer bill and have come a long way.  I have 2 american standard cadet toilets i got at home depot and have had good success.  I didnt go for dual flush as at the time they were much more expensive. if you clog toilets often the bigger trap is a huge improvement.

Replacing a toilet
Look for your water shut off valve.  Usually there is one behind the toilet
MAKE SURE IT WORKS!!!!!!!! lots become corroded and will leak despite being OFF
You will need a braided hose to connect the toilet to the wall.  I dont recommend using old plumbing in that one spot
You will need a wax seal, get the one with the flange it goes so much better
Get a toilet of your choosing
Turn off water at toilet, and flush to see if tank refills
If any water enters your valve isn likely corroded and not working.  You would then need to shut off the house valve and drain the lines via a nearby sink, perferably one on a lower floor to prevent gravity draining.  Leave tap open and make sure no more water comes out.
Disconnect the toilet water in line
Have some towels around and a small pail for drips
Get appropriate wrenches to undo the bolts on toilet flange/bottom
Have a garbage bag or rubermaid tub right beside toilet when lifting off to set it in to prevent mess
Remove old toilet
Take a putty knife and scrape away old wax ring
Inspect hole for rot due to leakage
If no rot issues
Set down wax ring with flange pointing downward in center of hole
Have one person lifting toilet while the other person guides in.  There will be 2 brass bolts you must slide intothe toilet connection in the floor and then guide into toilet base.  Get it nice and centered before setting down toilet on wax ring
Settle toilet on wax ring with some pressure
If you screw up the ring get a whole new one, dont try to re use it
Gently tighten bolts in toilet base.  These will twist off if you go all superman on it.  You want tight but not crazy.  If you twist it off you must reseat it all over again  with new bolts.
Reconnect water line
Turn onwater looking for any leaks or drips
Flush
Check in room below for drips if possible
If you see any drips turn off water immediately
« Last Edit: April 24, 2016, 06:08:21 AM by dess1313 »

Frugal Lizard

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We ended up with a toto toilet because DH walks into the plumbing supply place and there is a toto toilet sitting on a raised platform.  Beside it is a pail of junk - some Styrofoam packing chips, golf balls, ping pong balls.  Under the platform is another bucket.  The sales clerk walks up to DH and asks do you need a toilet?  Shows him the quiet close lid and the ergonomic elongated bowl and then dumps the pail of junk into the toilet and flushes.  All the junk lands in the pail below and DH says - I'll take two.  Low water use models and that can clear a golf ball and a floating Styrofoam chip.  The only time there has been a plunger needed was when a kid has dropped an entire new jumbo roll of extra fancy charmin into the bowl and tried to flush it so that nobody found out. 

Roots&Wings

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I just replaced a toilet. If DIY, highly recommend 2-piece, which was hard enough to lift. 1-piece would not have been possible for me to lift into place. Placing straws on the bolts helped to guide the toilet into place when setting.

Went with a WaterSense Toto model with great flushing performance (1,000 MaP score).

Tools needed were the wax ring and bolts (jumbo in my case because of floor height), a wrench to tighten the tank bolts, a new water supply line (which you may not need), and the seat. I hate the Toto soft close seat (which squeaks when you sit) and prefer the cheap Lowes version.

paddedhat

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If you are doing the work alone, use the same technique plumber do, to seat the new bowl on the wax ring. Put the bowl on the floor, directly in front of the ring. Straddle the bowl, like you are riding a horse. Using both hands, grab the rim and lift. Do a duck walk while moving the bowl over the hole, and watch the bolts to line up the holes. Lower the bowl on to the bolts, and stop to see if it's square with the room. Take a tape measure and check if both tank holes are the same distance from the back wall. Step back, eyeball the bowl, and see I it looks square with the floor tile. Now gently straddle the bowl again, and sit on it. Rock it a round a bit while putting downward pressure on it, to seat the wax ring.

Rezdent

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Talking about toilets and water efficiency, anybody use the "2 liter" hack by filling an empty 2 liter(I have seen the 24oz bottles too)  with sand and placing it inside the water tank of your toilet?   

It will of course reduce wsgrr usage but I always thought the bowl wouldn't be as clean.  I don't have any 2 liters cause we don't drink pop, bit maybe I'll ask my my laws tonight for one and try it out.
Sand?  I'd be leary of that, because I'd hate to try and clean it when the pop bottle eventually breaks.
I've heard of filling them with water, but haven't tried it.

bobechs

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Talking about toilets and water efficiency, anybody use the "2 liter" hack by filling an empty 2 liter(I have seen the 24oz bottles too)  with sand and placing it inside the water tank of your toilet?   

It will of course reduce wsgrr usage but I always thought the bowl wouldn't be as clean.  I don't have any 2 liters cause we don't drink pop, bit maybe I'll ask my my laws tonight for one and try it out.
Sand?  I'd be leary of that, because I'd hate to try and clean it when the pop bottle eventually breaks.
I've heard of filling them with water, but haven't tried it.

Before it became a thing to drive around looking for a pop bottle to repurpose as a volume-filler for toilet tanks, the antediluvian method was to put a brick, or a half brick, or two bricks in the tank.

This was before metric bricks, so I can't provide a table of equivalent volumes.

Roots&Wings

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^ I use bottles filled with water in the tank to displace volume in my older toilet. Hasn't impacted flushing performance, and saves a decent amount of water. Getting bottles of the right size was the hardest part (I asked relatives to save some since I don't buy that stuff).

Spork

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I always tell people to look at Terry Love's toilet ranking.  He's a plumber that keeps a list of currently available toilets that perform well. 

http://www.terrylove.com/crtoilet.htm

I've put in 2 or 3 of the models from his list in years past and been happy with them.  (List changes... so the ones I put in may no longer be on the list.)  I just print the damn thing out and go to Lowes/Depot.

Lookilu

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This really depends on your size and how/who is going to use the toilet.

If it's going in your master bedroom, get one of the silent closing lids. If you're a big person get a 'handicap' taller toilet with an elongated bowl.

Do you like bidets? There are some excellent ones on Amazon.

Are there small children going to be using the toilet? Go with a smaller less high toilet. Look into the 3 partition seats with built-in seats for the little ones.

Want to just go cheap? Get the parts replacement kit.

Is the toilet in an older home? On a wood or cement floor? When you pull the toilet you may find you need to do more work than you're initially anticipating.

+1 to all of the above, and be sure to measure your rough-in, especially if it's in an older home. Twelve inch rough-ins are standard now, so measure to make sure that's what you have and adjust your buying plans as needed.

Two piece toilets are easier to maneuver and less costly.

Concealed trapway toilets make exterior cleaning much easier. I have a Toto Acquia with a 10" rough-in in one bathroom, and an Acquia II in the other. So far, so good!
« Last Edit: April 24, 2016, 02:27:45 PM by Lookilu »

sistastache

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Two piece toilets are a win over a single in both cost and a replacement factor should the tank get cracked etc. only one item needs to be replaced. 
American standard offers a model, might be the "cadet ", that has a tank slightly raised from the bowl. This eliminates the cleaning issue often found where the tank and bowl meet on two piece toilets.
+1 for comfort height (the lower models can be challenging for adults, and feel like you're falling when you go to sit) also, I vote for elongated or, if you are strapped for space, a compact elongated. The round bowls are not as comfortable and make using the loo more cumbersome for ladies.

dess1313

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Talking about toilets and water efficiency, anybody use the "2 liter" hack by filling an empty 2 liter(I have seen the 24oz bottles too)  with sand and placing it inside the water tank of your toilet?   

It will of course reduce wsgrr usage but I always thought the bowl wouldn't be as clean.  I don't have any 2 liters cause we don't drink pop, bit maybe I'll ask my my laws tonight for one and try it out.

Wan something simpler?  We always used to have just a plain old red brick in ours.  Does the same thing.  Might even get 2 in depending on your tank

lthenderson

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There are a lot of better options than wax rings these days. They are more forgiving, easier to install and reusable should you ever have to pull the toilet for some reason in the future.

GuitarStv

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I'm a fan of two piece toilets.  They're less awkward to wrestle into position by yourself, usually cheaper, and better in case something breaks.

We got tax rebates for replacing our toilets with dual flush ones several years ago, and they work pretty well.

You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

Spork

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I'm a fan of two piece toilets.  They're less awkward to wrestle into position by yourself, usually cheaper, and better in case something breaks.

We got tax rebates for replacing our toilets with dual flush ones several years ago, and they work pretty well.

You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

Can't you just bend at the waist and have the same effect?

lthenderson

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You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

I'm tall and I bought one of those higher toilets when redoing my master bathroom and I hate the thing. It makes the underside of my legs hurt if sat on too long. If I had to do over again, I would definitely get the standard shorter version.

Kitsune

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You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

I'm tall and I bought one of those higher toilets when redoing my master bathroom and I hate the thing. It makes the underside of my legs hurt if sat on too long. If I had to do over again, I would definitely get the standard shorter version.

Also, if it's ever likely to be an issue for you... ever try to toilet-train a kid when they're tiny and you have to lift them up just that much higher than they want to be? Yeah. *sigh*

My mom has one of those taller toilets. Great for her (she has serious knee/hip issues that make being crouched down and getting back up an issue), but hell when we go with the kid.

We have 3 toilets in our house (yeah, overkill, I know): 1 1-piece and 2 2-pieces. The 1-piece was significantly pricier, but the base is one smooth piece, and it's the one where I don't have to get down on all fours to wipe the cat hair that got caught in the condensation around the base. I like that a lot, but I don't know that it's worth an extra 200$.

GuitarStv

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I'm a fan of two piece toilets.  They're less awkward to wrestle into position by yourself, usually cheaper, and better in case something breaks.

We got tax rebates for replacing our toilets with dual flush ones several years ago, and they work pretty well.

You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

Can't you just bend at the waist and have the same effect?

Sure, but your poop will be coming out sideways . . . leading to it sliding down and hitting your block and tackle.  I imagine the consequences would be potentially even more dire for women.  Seems like a bad solution for a poorly designed toilet    :P

Fishindude

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I'd stay away from the high efficiency, low water use toilets as they do not flush well, and lead to skid marks.
Elongated bowl is nice, gives you a bit more working room.
Nothing wrong with a two piece toilet, there are millions of them in use.

paddedhat

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I'd stay away from the high efficiency, low water use toilets as they do not flush well, and lead to skid marks.
Elongated bowl is nice, gives you a bit more working room.
Nothing wrong with a two piece toilet, there are millions of them in use.

Wonderful advice, assuming it's still 1980?  I have put hundreds of low flow toilets in my new homes, over the last decade. Complaints about flush issues, skid marks, or other problems............................zero. There was a time, when low flow toilets were relatively new, (and not a code requirement) that low flow units sucked. Since then design and technology have assured the vast majority of them perform more than adequately. Any low flow unit stocked at Lowes, or HD, will do just fine.

plainjane

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I got a Toto dual flush for the bathroom reno.  After suffering through bad low-flush toilets in another house (not our reno), I really appreciate Toto's consistency & the ability to do a full flush as required.  I don't recall which specific Toto model we got - our requirements were Toto, then dual flush, then not too ugly.

Rural

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You'll have some choices about height. I like the higher one. They call it "comfort height" I think.

This is really bad advice.  The further away from a squatting position that you get with a toilet the more you kink your rectum.  The more you kink your rectum, the more you need to push when you crap.  The more you push when you crap, the more likely you are to develop hemorrhoids.

A taller toilet is similar to sitting in a chair, so many people prefer them.  The thing is, a toilet isn't a chair.  It's designed for crapping on.  Don't purposely buy a toilet that's been designed to make your ass less healthy.

I'm tall and I bought one of those higher toilets when redoing my master bathroom and I hate the thing. It makes the underside of my legs hurt if sat on too long. If I had to do over again, I would definitely get the standard shorter version.


Add lower back injury to the leg pain. Or at least worse pain when you already have a lower back injury. Nothing like dangling feet to pull on that back. Elongated is very bad for the short also, more dangling feet.

mmuhlenkamp

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Replaced two toilets in our house with the $70 water ridge two-piece models from Costco about a month ago. They have the dual flush (which I wanted) and elongated bowl and ADA compliant height (which my husband wanted). So far no issues and they flush much better than the cheapy builder grade toilets that came with the house (about 10 years old now).

Edit: and install was pretty easy, I'd recommend two people though if you've never done it (one to hold the bowl, the other to guide the bolts to the flange). Watch some videos. Make sure to test/check for leaks before caulking the bottom.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2016, 10:22:20 AM by mmuhlenkamp »

ShoulderThingThatGoesUp

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Make sure to test/check for leaks before caulking the bottom.

I've never seen a good rationale for caulking the bottom at all. Caulk will start looking bad eventually and you're just delaying your notification of any leaks that do develop.

guitar_stitch

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Make sure to test/check for leaks before caulking the bottom.

I've never seen a good rationale for caulking the bottom at all. Caulk will start looking bad eventually and you're just delaying your notification of any leaks that do develop.

I use caulk when the flange isn't solid.  It provides a mild adhesive effect.

paddedhat

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Caulk is a horrible idea, and a code requirement in my area. If you are on a wooden floor system (floor joists and plywood sheathing) and you have even a slight leak in the base to wax ring connection, the damage is nicely concealed by the caulk. I have seen several cases where the bowl was caulked to a vinyl sheet floor, and the owner complained that the toilet "rocks". It was rocking for a good reason. The ring was leaking for years, the plywood floor has turned to mulch, and there is one hell of a repair bill about to be paid. I had one job where we had to pull the toilet and vanity. Cut all the subfloor out of a small bathroom and replace it, since the toilet leak had destroyed much of it. The job was a bit stressful, since it was the only bath in the home, and it needed to be completed in one day. Had the homeowners noticed a slight leak at the base of the bowl, years before, it would of been a quick, easy repair to install a new wax ring. Instead it was ugly and expensive.

As for caulking to further secure a bowl that's rocking? That's a bad idea. There are several repair parts and work arounds available for flanges that are in bad shape. If you don't have the ability to securely install the two closet bolts to a usable floor flange, don't half ass it by trying to bed the bowl in caulk. You are only creating a bigger mess down the road.

GuitarStv

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

paddedhat

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

Yes, "sanitary concerns" are behind the code requirement to caulk. That said, when you hide a leaking wax ring under a tightly caulked bowl,  the gross mess collecting under a toilet is a lot worse that a bit of pee dribble. In one jurisdiction, I reached an intelligent compromise with a reasonable code inspector ( a rare bird, indeed). I would leave a 2" gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, to give the home owner a chance to spot a leaking seal. I started doing this everywhere, and found that it was not noticed by any other inspector.

Spork

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

Yes, "sanitary concerns" are behind the code requirement to caulk. That said, when you hide a leaking wax ring under a tightly caulked bowl,  the gross mess collecting under a toilet is a lot worse that a bit of pee dribble. In one jurisdiction, I reached an intelligent compromise with a reasonable code inspector ( a rare bird, indeed). I would leave a 2" gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, to give the home owner a chance to spot a leaking seal. I started doing this everywhere, and found that it was not noticed by any other inspector.

I always caulked just about the front 1/3, well in front of the wax ring, for the "pee dribbles".  It's not a code requirement here (that I know of).

Grosgrain

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

Yes, "sanitary concerns" are behind the code requirement to caulk. That said, when you hide a leaking wax ring under a tightly caulked bowl,  the gross mess collecting under a toilet is a lot worse that a bit of pee dribble. In one jurisdiction, I reached an intelligent compromise with a reasonable code inspector ( a rare bird, indeed). I would leave a 2" gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, to give the home owner a chance to spot a leaking seal. I started doing this everywhere, and found that it was not noticed by any other inspector.

I always caulked just about the front 1/3, well in front of the wax ring, for the "pee dribbles".  It's not a code requirement here (that I know of).

Yep.  I caulk most of the way around, leaving a few inches in the back open.  In his later years, my grandfather had a lot of trouble 'hitting the mark.'  His bathroom always had a disgusting urine odor - even after thoroughly cleaning the floor.  When we went to remodel after he passed, I pulled the toilet and found that the urine had seeped under the toilet, past the rough cut edge of the vinyl floor and soaked into the subfloor.  Thus the persistent smell.  Could have easily been prevented by caulking around at least the front 1/2 of the toilet/floor junction.

BudgetSlasher

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What toilet do you recommend? Is there anything in particular to look for? Single piece, two piece, etc?  Im guessing installation is pretty straightforward, but i will appreciate if you give me any tips and tools I will need, like not forgetting to put the wax ring!

Is there any real difference between a $70 toilet and a $300 toilet?

I have to replace an old toilet, it looks like it was pretty expensive (online searches show it as $300) but nobody makes parts for it anymore, and IF i happen to find a necessary part, the cost of the part and shipping will be about $50. I think its better to just replace this thing instead of dealing with this hassle every time the flapper or something needs replacement.

What toilet do you have, is the lack of original parts the only reason for replacing it? I ask because the vast majority of toilets can have different types of parts installed in them. For example there are a variety of fill valves that function in different manners but all do the same job and all fit in the same hole in the tank. Since you call out the flapper by name, they make a toilet rebuilt kit (they can be had for ~20 bucks on the low end and will replace pretty much every part of the toilet), which includes a new attachment point for the flapper and there you have it a new style of flapper can be installed. Of course this does not apply if you have a weird pressurized flush toilet using a proprietary system or some other innovation that did not catch on.

I think the installation of the toilet has been covered well and the selection is a personal preference, which often controls price. Do you want a higher toilet (maybe you have bad knees) or a lower toilet (maybe you are a squatty potty type)? Do you want a round bowl or a elongated bowl (more target area for men)? Do you want a single flush or a dual flush (last I looked at toilets it seemed like dual flushes got away with a larger "solids" flush than singles)? Do you want a color other than white (and god help you trying to match a white)? Where is the outlet of your current toilet (don't assume that it is a standard 12 inches from the wall . . . there are different distances and even rear exit)? Do you want a lever or a button to flush (on the top, from, or side also) or a fancy (spendy pants) no touch hand wave system? Do you want to install a soft close lid, if it doesn't come with one, at the time? Are you going to add any other fancy bits . . . like a bidet seat?

Those are all questions you should consider. My one piece guidance for you, do not buy a trendy toilet, a toilet in a hot color, or a toilet that matches your wall color unless you want to replace it again. When we bought this house it had purple toilets (and sinks, and a shower, and a jacuzzi tub) . . . which really limits your options for decorating or remodeling.


GuitarStv

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

Yes, "sanitary concerns" are behind the code requirement to caulk. That said, when you hide a leaking wax ring under a tightly caulked bowl,  the gross mess collecting under a toilet is a lot worse that a bit of pee dribble. In one jurisdiction, I reached an intelligent compromise with a reasonable code inspector ( a rare bird, indeed). I would leave a 2" gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, to give the home owner a chance to spot a leaking seal. I started doing this everywhere, and found that it was not noticed by any other inspector.

I always caulked just about the front 1/3, well in front of the wax ring, for the "pee dribbles".  It's not a code requirement here (that I know of).

Yep.  I caulk most of the way around, leaving a few inches in the back open.  In his later years, my grandfather had a lot of trouble 'hitting the mark.'  His bathroom always had a disgusting urine odor - even after thoroughly cleaning the floor.  When we went to remodel after he passed, I pulled the toilet and found that the urine had seeped under the toilet, past the rough cut edge of the vinyl floor and soaked into the subfloor.  Thus the persistent smell.  Could have easily been prevented by caulking around at least the front 1/2 of the toilet/floor junction.

When my dad was showing me how to install a toilet he always mentioned that you should caulk around the front 3/4 or so of the base to avoid this problem.

Kitsune

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I always figured that you caulk around the base of the toilet so that the accumulated dozens of years of men pissing and missing a little bit doesn't lead to a large dried puddle of urine under the toilet.

Yes, "sanitary concerns" are behind the code requirement to caulk. That said, when you hide a leaking wax ring under a tightly caulked bowl,  the gross mess collecting under a toilet is a lot worse that a bit of pee dribble. In one jurisdiction, I reached an intelligent compromise with a reasonable code inspector ( a rare bird, indeed). I would leave a 2" gap in the caulk at the back of the toilet, to give the home owner a chance to spot a leaking seal. I started doing this everywhere, and found that it was not noticed by any other inspector.

I always caulked just about the front 1/3, well in front of the wax ring, for the "pee dribbles".  It's not a code requirement here (that I know of).

Yep.  I caulk most of the way around, leaving a few inches in the back open.  In his later years, my grandfather had a lot of trouble 'hitting the mark.'  His bathroom always had a disgusting urine odor - even after thoroughly cleaning the floor.  When we went to remodel after he passed, I pulled the toilet and found that the urine had seeped under the toilet, past the rough cut edge of the vinyl floor and soaked into the subfloor.  Thus the persistent smell.  Could have easily been prevented by caulking around at least the front 1/2 of the toilet/floor junction.

When my dad was showing me how to install a toilet he always mentioned that you should caulk around the front 3/4 or so of the base to avoid this problem.

Also 100% necessary if you have small boys in the house.

Also speaking from personal experience: if you have a heating vent in the floor within 2 feet of the toilet, BLOCK IT. Otherwise said small boy WILL manage to get pee in it, which WILL make half the house smell like urine for part of the winter until you change the ENTIRE HEATING DUCT.

(Source: I have a kid brother.)

William Cannon

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I recently installed an American Standard dual flush with no problem and no prior experience.  I just watched a youtube. 

I love the toilet.  It doesn't get clogged by the kids, it rinses the bowl well, and it has the pee pee flush option which is great since I have a lot of little bladders running around in my house.  :)

Tapa


Paul | pdgessler

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I'd go with this one: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/20/arts/design/duchamp-eat-your-heart-out-the-guggenheim-is-installing-a-gold-toilet.html

It's totally mustachian: it serves as part of your gold allocation for The Golden Butterfly portfolio (no trading or storage costs either), it cuts down on your heating/cooling bills because of its high thermal mass, and it will give you instant shitlord status on the privilege scale.

"Home improvement projects don't add value to your home", my ass!

Choices

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We replaced several toilets last fall. One was a $99 Glacier Bay dual-flush comfort height from Home Depot, and one was a standard height $220 Kohler.

Lessons learned:
- My mother (in her 60s) loves the comfort height.
- My husband and I (in our 30s) hate it. It's just not great anatomically, so go for standard height if you don't have trouble with your knees or hips. And if you have kids--they hate the tall ones.
- The cheaper toilet is MUCH harder to clean. Skid marks are almost always present in the bowl unless we use the toilet brush every time, and the bowl finish is less durable, so using a pumice stone would ruin it quickly.
- Use plain wax rings rather than ones with the black funnel-type center. If you have to use an augur, it's more likely to get caught on the black plastic and break the seal, causing a leak.
- Like others have said, leave a space in the caulk on the back side of the toilet by the wall so you can see if there are any leaks.

Good luck!

opnfld

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check the rough-in distance.  12in is standard, but the previous owners of our house installed bead board wainscotting.  Must not have measured the gap between the tank and wall because they had to route a space in the wainscotting for the tank to recess into.  It looked horrible.  When replacing the toilet, we went with a 10in rough-in and replaced the bead board for a much nicer finish.  The toilet was the American Standard Cadet - it's great - but pricey on the 10in.