Low e and argon filled glass entry doors worth it?

[eyePod]

So this isn't really DIY since we are looking to have a co tractor install, but we are pricing everything out. We had talked about getting the doors with the blinds in between3n the panes and then were pointed to the ODL caps which would let us have the best of both worlds. We would still have energy star doors with the blinds that the kids and the cats couldn't attack.

I'm just worried that the energy efficiency is a bunch of crap (like a car's undercoating).

I tried to look for some real data and wasn't djndjng anything that wasn't from a window/door manufacturer.

Any experience for these?

We were quoted at 4300 for front storm door, rear entry and storm door, and downstairs sliding door. They are warrantied for life which is a big improvement over Lowes' 5 year. Additionally, the front storm. door would require some work to install over the front door.

We plan on getting the storm doors that have the sliding panels that also have screens.

Its a locally owned franchise, so I'd rather give.my money to them instead of a big box store. Additionally, I liked that they wouldn't give a discount for credit card, financing, etc. They just eat those costs.

This seems like one of those "not super cheap but good quality work for a decent price" situation. Angie's list has fantastic reviews for them for what its worth.

[paddedhat]

In my area (the northeast) it takes Low E and Argon to meet minimum code standards, and yes it makes a huge difference. Here, a plain insulated glass unit will form condensation on the inside, in cold conditions, and the upgraded ones will not. I have seen this repeatedly, as it's common to have plain IG units in entrance doors with a low E, Argon window a few feet away. The window will be fine, and the door will be wet with condensation at the edges of the glass.

[eyePod]

Thanks for the response. That makes me feel a lot better. We're going to get another quote just to make sure we're in the right ballpark, but it's still good to know that we're not crazy to get the Low E doors.

[BlueMR2]

So this isn't really DIY since we are looking to have a co tractor install, but we are pricing everything out. We had talked about getting the doors with the blinds in between3n the panes and then were pointed to the ODL caps which would let us have the best of both worlds. We would still have energy star doors with the blinds that the kids and the cats couldn't attack.

I'm just worried that the energy efficiency is a bunch of crap (like a car's undercoating).

As one who's family has been in the construction business for many years, I'm told Low E is the real deal.  It's what the contractors all put in their own homes...

Not sure why you don't like car undercoating, it's a good thing too.  Keeps the kicked up rocks from scratching the paint as easily and starting rust.  It's sad when an otherwise perfectly serviceable car has the floor rust out when it could have been prevented with appropriate undercoating.

[eyePod]

Can't tell if you're joking about the car or not. But regardless, thanks for the insight on the Low E!

[TheLazyMan]

I do not recommend doors/windows with internal blinds.  We had some break after 4 years, and the only way to fix it was to replace the insert.  We put in a regular insert without blinds, it should be cheaper to replace the blinds occasionally than the glass.

[eyePod]

OK, thanks for that. We were worried about that too. They were also $700 more for the door. Instead, we're oging to go with these ODL panels http://www.homedepot.com/p/ODL-White-Cordless-Add-On-Enclosed-Aluminum-Blinds-with-1-2-in-Slats-for-22-in-Wide-x-64-in-Length-Door-Windows-ADDON2264E/203607524?N=5yc1vZaqihZasz which saves us a lot of money but still gives benefit of the energy efficient window.

[BlueMR2]

Can't tell if you're joking about the car or not.

No joke.  I've had sections of floor replaced on my cars before.    Rusted out in the non-undercoated section the first time and later on in a damaged undercoating section that I neglected to repair.  Drilling holes in the bottom of your car to squirt rust preventative has given *real* surface undercoating a bad name that it does not deserve.

My aunt also once had the trunk floor drop out of her relatively young, but not undercoated car before.  It's a funny story because it involves groceries going all over the road.  :-)

[Bob W]

I'm curious?  What is your motivation for replacing all these doors?     If it is merely energy savings I doubt it would ever pencil out beyond the current set up. (I may be the opposite of you --- I removed all the screen doors on my sliding glass doors.   They just tear up too easily and obstruct the view too much for me.   We get a few flies occasionally and I rarely use the windows to air the house as the pollen and dust is nasty in the spring around here)

That and door and window replacement is a relatively easier DYI project.    You could learn it easy on youtube.   Maybe do one per month. 

I'm guessing 1/2 the cost is installation.   

So if I felt I needed to replace for some reason I would go with off the shelf,  double pain -- argon if in cold areas,  low-e if sun exposed,  not between glass blinds (blinds are very cheap to replace).   

Check the "lifetime guarantee"  as well -- is that prorated?

Did you get more than one bid?  Will you be in the house more than 5 years? 

I realize that 4K isn't a huge sum,  but 4k here and 4K there and suddenly we are talking real money. 

*(special note -- if energy efficiency is a big factor in you equation,  you should have a whole house energy audit conducted by a HERS certified professional with a blow door tester and infrared camera.   They have a great software program that will determine which,  if any energy efficiency projects are worthwhile.   Many utilities will pick up a large portion of the $300+ cost of this)

[eyePod]

Well, its a lot. The doors are over 12 years old. the entry door onto the deck is warped and doesn't close correctly. There's also a good amount of wood rot. Then there's the french door combo in the downstairs which we hate. I want the floor space and want to be able to have the door open. This one has a huge gap too and in the winter we weatherstripped it and now it won't even open. And there's still a small gap. We also want the screen sliding storm doors to get a breeze through the house. we have awesome crossflow here with the doors and windows open. We aren't comfortable doing the door by ourselves since its not in great shape as is. We will be doing the bathroom. By ourselves though. That'll be a learning experience!

[music lover]

I live on the Canadian prairies. -40 is normal. I replaced leaky sliding aluminum windows for triple pane, low e windows. The difference in heating costs was minimal...I went from $600 a year to $550, however, I did put those plastic window kits on the crappy windows every winter. In most homes, windows take up a small portion of total wall area, so any improvements will be minimal gain. Essentially, if you are replacing double pane with triple pane, you are replacing a few dozen square feet of R4 with R6 (ballpark). Unless you live in an area with extreme climate, payback will take decades.

That being said, there is improved comfort level...you can walk past them in winter and not feel a chill, and it reduces outside noise. If you're doing it to save money, you probably won't. If you're doing it for the comfort value, then it might be worth it.