Author Topic: Leaking copper pipe joint  (Read 3938 times)

DrumAllDay

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Leaking copper pipe joint
« on: May 08, 2018, 09:47:33 AM »
I have a leaking 1/2" copper pipe joint at the elbow piece. It is the hot water supply line right above the hot water tank and close to a floor joist, putting it in a tough spot to work on.

This is my plan to address this as of now, please comment if you have any suggestions or advice.

-turn off cold water supply to hot water tank.
-open hot water faucets and drain hot water tank. (I need to drain it anyway for maintenance, have not done so since I bought the house two years ago.)
-sand and clean the joint where leak is.
-apply flux and solder to reseal joint.
-cross my fingers, refill tank, and hopefully the leak stopped.

Does this seem like the correct way of approaching this?

KCM5

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2018, 09:52:17 AM »
You appear to have more DIY skill then I do, so take this with a grain of salt, but I would just replace the elbow with a pressure fitting (ie sharkbite) rather than mess around with solder. But then again, I don’t have a solderer, so there’s that.

ncornilsen

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2018, 10:15:18 AM »
You appear to have more DIY skill then I do, so take this with a grain of salt, but I would just replace the elbow with a pressure fitting (ie sharkbite) rather than mess around with solder. But then again, I don’t have a solderer, so there’s that.

I am quite skilled at soldering, and would recommend using shark bite fittings in a situation like this.

DrumAllDay

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2018, 10:31:52 AM »
I have never used sharkbite fittings and have only had experience with soldering copper lines. With that being said, I will look into this.

So would I just cut the two ends with a pipe cutter/hack saw and attach with the sharkbite? I dont think I can get a clean cut with the pipe cutter on the one side because it's right next to the floor joist. I am no plumbing expert by any means but I have done a decent amount of copper soldering on my house.

Also, I have been hesitant to use these compression type fittings. I replaced a leaking one already, granted it looked pretty old.

lthenderson

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2018, 07:32:24 AM »
I have used both Sharkbites and have done tons of soldering over the years. My preference is soldering because once it is completed it stays that way. Also, once you get skilled at soldering, you can do it well the first time every time. With Sharkbites, I have not personally seen one leak long after it was installed but I have seen several leak immediately after install because they didn't get quite all the way on or the pipe end was slightly elongated, etc. I think they have their place in everybody's tool box but I would never bury one in a wall or put it someplace where I can't see it readily to determine it isn't leaking. Another thing I love about soldering is that the connections themselves cost pennies compared to sharkbite fittings. I have two bags, one of elbows and one of splices that cost me about one sharkbite fitting costs. Yes you do need a soldering torch but I use mine for other things around the home so it isn't wasted money.

If this is a new leak, it may not be the joint that is leaking. Copper over many decades can develop pinholes, especially at elbows and other joints. If it were me, I would cut away the elbow and solder a new one in. They make close quarters cutting rings for copper pipe and I've never been in a situation where once you make one cut, you couldn't flex the pipe enough to get the ring on it and make the cut in the tight location. Another thing to consider with elbows, is that since you are removing the elbow you are removing some of the pipe length and that has to be replaced by either pulling one of the two ends of the pipe closer to the other or if unable, to splice in a longer piece of pipe somewhere along the line where convenient.


Fishindude

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2018, 08:12:56 AM »
Your plan sounds good to me.   Just make sure everything is dry so the soldered joint works.

405programmer

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2018, 02:12:46 PM »
I think your plan sounds great. I haven't done a lot of plumbing work myself but I was a "gopher" (go for those extra parts in my toolbox..) for my grandfather for many summers in my teenage years and he would do exactly what you describe. One idea is maybe slide a thin piece of metal or something fire retardant between the joint and the joist when you do the soldering. You shouldn't need it if you're careful but it's an extra caution you can take.

Oh! Also use a mirror and good light to check the side of the solder that you can't readily see.

DrumAllDay

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2018, 09:45:33 AM »
Thanks for the responses. Since I have put a bowl underneath it two days ago there is literally like 2 drops of water in it, so as of right now I am going to keep on watching and see if it gets worse.  I think when I do take action I will stick to my original plan. If that fails I will have to either try re-soldering a new elbow joint or use the sharkbite.

lthenderson

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2018, 10:27:42 AM »
Thanks for the responses. Since I have put a bowl underneath it two days ago there is literally like 2 drops of water in it, so as of right now I am going to keep on watching and see if it gets worse.

Those things tend to get worse quite rapidly and may pick a time to do so when you aren't home so I would fix it as soon as is convenient.

sokoloff

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Re: Leaking copper pipe joint
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2018, 11:29:47 AM »
Couple things that might not be obvious.

The threaded connection to the tank may have a plastic component as a galvanic isolator/dielectric break. You don't want to be soldering and heating up the threaded connection on the tank and melting this.

You can't solder copper pipes with any water in them (even residual drops) if you don't provide a place for the steam to escape. If the only place the steam can escape is through the joint you're working on, the steam will blow a vent hole in the solder and you'll end up with a leak. You can use white bread (no crusts) to soak up some of the residual water, but if you don't give a nice, open vent path for steam, you're asking for trouble.

You can solve both of these problems if there's a union fitting close to the threaded fitting. If so, disassemble the union, unscrew the leftover stub, and do all the work away from the tank where you can get a good clamp in a vice and make it easy on yourself. If there isn't a union fitting nearby, you might consider adding one. This is also the time to consider adding a ball valve shutoff as well, of course, to isolate the tank from the house and make it easier to change down the road.

I personally wouldn't use Sharkbites. I know a lot of people get good results from them; I just trust old-fashioned soldered copper more.