Kitchen DIY question

[MustardTiger]

We have a 50 year old house with original cabinets that we are planning on replacing with ikea cabinets.  This is probably a basic question, but how can I install cabinets without ripping out the tile?  We had tile put down when we first moved in and really wouldn't want to have to redo it. 

[zolotiyeruki]

Just to clarify, you're talking about tile on the floor, right?  The answer is "it depends."

If the tile goes all the way under the cabinets (i.e. cabinets were installed on top of the tile), then there should be no issue, although the exposed areas might be faded or the grout dirtier.  If the tile only goes up to the cabinets without going under, then you'll need to make sure the footprint of the new cabinets is very close to the footprint of the old.

[sandandsun]

If it's newer floor tile, you can try to get a few tiles and replace any that are damaged, I.e., right up against the cabinets... But even tile that is supposed to match exactly often doesn't after the older tile has faded or if it comes from a different lot...

[MustardTiger]

The cabinets are built onto the subfloor and we had tile installed about a year ago.  Could I demo the cabinets, and then tile the rest of the floor and put the new cabinets on top of the tile? 

[zolotiyeruki]

The cabinets are built onto the subfloor and we had tile installed about a year ago.  Could I demo the cabinets, and then tile the rest of the floor and put the new cabinets on top of the tile?

You could, I suppose, if you could find tile that matches closely enough.  Is there any reason why the new cabinets couldn't fit in the holes left by the old?  Are they dimensioned differently?

[MustardTiger]

Not sure, haven't bought them yet.  I just assumed new ikea cabinets might be a different dimension than the probably 50 year old built in cabinets I have currently.  I guess I can try to get as close as possible and figure it out from there.

[Greg]

Measure the depth and width of the bases your current cabinets sit on.  Then compare to the dimensions for the Ikea versions.  Keep in mind most of the Ikea cabinets sit on legs, and then a toe-kick facade is installed to hide the legs, so it may jest be a matter of installing the legs so the facade kicks will cover the holes in the flooring.

In the end, you may have to get creative with extra-tick toe kick or even additional trim (like base shoe) in front of the toe-kick to cover any gaps.  On the Ikea cabinets, the toe-kicks are recessed behind the cabinets only an inch or two.

[MustardTiger]

The only other question I have is about the kitchen demo.  I have gas appliances and am a little nervous to mess with them.  Should I hire a plumber to come take those out before I start removing the cabinets?

[steadierfooting]

Even though they are old, the cabinet sizes should still be standard, so you shouldn't have an issue if using the same footprint, although if it's an L shaped you might run into issues with corner pieces.  Then just make sure the cabinet you get has proper trim pieces to cover any gaps. 

If it's 50 years old, I would turn off the gas myself to the area, but have a plumber come in to see if any of the connections need updating. More than likely they'd replace some piping with the yellow flex pipes.

Are the cabinets not able to be refinished?  Our cabinets are at least 30 years old, and our previous owner took the blah stained color and painted it white, replacing hardware, countertops, sink, appliances, etc.  Looks brand new.  From what friends said unless you are changing the layout it should be rare to have to replace the actual support structure (the box).

But my experience is really limited, mostly from a recent bathroom / laundry room remodel.

[Primm]

The only other question I have is about the kitchen demo.  I have gas appliances and am a little nervous to mess with them.  Should I hire a plumber to come take those out before I start removing the cabinets?

I would. Three things I don't mess with DIY myself - mains pressure water, high voltage power and gas. Happy to give anything else a go.

Also would love to see pics when you get to the installation process, we're in the planning stages of exactly the same conversion. Only we have pine floors that we are going to polish after the cabinets come out.

If you only retiled a year ago is the same tile still available? That may be the way to go, pull out the old cabinets and tile all the way to the wall. That way your floor will be completely even.

[Spork]

The only other question I have is about the kitchen demo.  I have gas appliances and am a little nervous to mess with them.  Should I hire a plumber to come take those out before I start removing the cabinets?

If you're just talking about removing the actual appliance (and not digging into the gas hookups themselves)...  I'd totally do that yourself.    You're probably talking about turning off a valve and unscrewing a pipe.  If you do... be sure to hold both sides of the pipe.  In other words, put a wrench on both the "wall side" and the "appliance side" to make sure you're not turning the "wall side" pipe.

If you're demo'ing the hookups (or relocating them) and you're nervous... you might call a plumber.

[crispychicky]

I don't know about the gas lines, but you definitely do NOT have to touch the existing floor tiles.  Instead of using the plastic feet that come with your Ikea cabinets, use 2x6s standing on edge.  Trim/shim as needed.   You can put the 2x6s at wherever depth you need them to be for your toe kick to line up perfectly with your existing tile.

We have Ikea cabinets and used this trick for our island.  The plastic feet did not feel very stable, and we wanted a way to very securely attach the island cabinets to the floor.  We screwed together a 'rectangle' of 2x6s, kind of like you would if you were making a raised bed for your garden.  Once that was level, we screwed the rectangle to the sub floor, then attached the cabinets to the 2x6 frame.  Very, very solid.  Return the plastic feet for a little bit of $.