calling all construction mustaches with roofing experience. i need advise

[Hedge_87]

hello all. My fiance and I have been remodeling a house for the past couple of years. It has come time to replace the roof. I was pretty set on going with a green metal roof. However my neighbor just got a new roof put in that was a metal shingle roof (durabuild roofing is the name of the company). It looks really nice. However I don't know much more than what their website has to offer about the product. I plan on installing the roof my self (worked weekends and summers all through high school installing shingle and panel metal roofs). I do have a few questions for any body who has ever installed the metal shingle type roofs.
A) How much is/was it per square for the material? I know its probably going to be the most expensive of the three roofing choices I have (heritage asphalt, metal panels, or metal shingles.)
B) Time wise compared to the other two choices how long will it take?
C)are their any brand names you recommend or advise to stay clear of?
A little stats about my roof its approx. 28 square walkable roof with no hips or valleys at all (it will be a breeze to roof no mater what material I use). Thanks for the help and if you have any other pros/cons or just helpful hints they would be much appreciated.

[Attar14]

Hedge-

I use to work for a company that installed these types of roofs.  We used Decra metal shingles and they always looked great! 

[Greg]

Nothing is faster than metal panels, I used standing seam "snap lock" type panels for my roof. 

[Rural]

Nothing is faster than metal panels, I used standing seam "snap lock" type panels for my roof.

Easy, too. We used synthetic underlayment, which is faster and easier than tar paper and costs about the same (more per "package," which is a roll in the case of the synthetics, but it covers more). Three men, two days, long breaks, and it was done from bare plywood to finished roof. I helped for just a few hours when a storm headed our way and the underlayment had to get down, fast (it's also truly waterproof). I was easily able to handle the panels, too, and I have trouble with a 50-pound bag of feed. Use gloves for moving things around, though, if you do either sort of metal -- it's sharp.

[Greg]

I used the synthetic underlayment as well, a 10 square roll weighs as much as a 3 square roll or tar paper, so more bang for the buck.  And, it doesn't tear and lays down nicely, and is safe to walk on up to, get this, 10/12 pitch. I was tied in with a fall-arrest harness but could easily walk up the 40º slope.

In general metal is great, and will outlast any asphalt composite shingle.  The metal shingles are probably great, but doing shingles or shingle panels takes a long time.  One 16" x 40' panel covers 53 sq. ft. About 20' is the max for one person to handle though.  So it goes so much faster.  But I would love to hear more about the metal shingles.

[Rural]

Agreed on 20 foot being about the max to handle solo, and I should mention that's when there's very little wind. Ours were 16 foot.

On the undlayment, if you're unfortunate enough to have to lay it when it's very hot outside, be extra careful not to stretch it as you attach it; it will shrink as it heats up, enough to smooth out any little wrinkles. Just roll out (straight) and nail. If you can find plastic capped roofing staples for the underlayment, it will go even faster - we couldn't and had to use nails.

The metal attaches with screws; get the dedicated ones with the rubber gasket to prevent tiny leaks.

[Hedge_87]

Has any body had any problems with standing seam panels getting caught by the wind? I've heard some horror story's about standing seam compared to exposed fastener. Just wondering if their are any truth to these story's or not.

Live in Kansas where the wind scale goes like this
0-30 mph= regular day.
30-45mph= a bit breezy.
45-60mph = ok it might be a little windy.
60+ mph = holy crap who says pigs can't fly!lol

Main reason in wanting to get away from shingles lol

[Greg]

I'm in the PNW where the high wind design speed is 85 mph.  Most we've had at my site is about 40 or 50.  If installed correctly, metal panels will not lift or get otherwise caught by wind.  So for instance in out big 2007 storm some homes lost shingles, we had no issues.  But it has to be installed correctly, with the right screws, the right spacing, the right flashing and trim details, etc.  No shortcuts, the system is only as good as the weakest link; usually the installer! So I DIY'd it.

There are various details for the tops of the panels; where you turn the upper edge up at a 100º angle and caulk the corners to prevent wind-driven rain over-topping the top edge of the panel, and stuff like that.  The company that supplies the panels (usually a local roofing supplier) will have brochures that specify all the details you will want to use, and then the folks that work there will have more information if they're helpful.  Mine supplied a custom-built edge tool for doing the top end, for instance.

Where I live rain is the biggest factor, so I went with standing seam and hidden fasteners.  Over time the neoprene washer check and shrink, so if you use exposed fasteners you have to tighten them.  Seasonal changes also affect the sealing effectiveness of the washers, and the panels themselves expand with heat and get longer in the sun, so the holes in the panels are slits sot he panel can move under the screw heads.  That's why over 40' you have to have two panels, the length of the holes determines how long the panels can be.

It helps to be a builder but I'm not a roofer. I used thicker plain galvanized (galvalume or zincalum) panels rather than painted, I figure the paint is the least durable part.  Now they have Energy-Star rated colors and using them can get you rebates.  Ours is more a of a rural look.

[ncornilsen]

How well does that stuff work to install on an older home that it's completely square or straight, and might have a few humps and bumps in it?

[Greg]

It works pretty well, and can sometimes mask the imperfections.  For instance, if the ridge slumps a bit in the center of the length, you can hide that when you install the ridge by stringing a line or using a level.  Same goes for rake and eave trim.  Bows or slumps in the deck (field) will telegraph but the seam pattern can sometimes help hide that, sometime accentuate it.

Although you can go over old roofing it's always best to remove old roofing for a better, easier install and so you can make any needed repairs.  A large slump could mean a broken rafter or truss cord.