Most of that stuff is snake oil. Driving conditions and habits vary from driver to driver, so you can't put a set mileage interval on services.
At my previous dealership (Toyota), we used test strips to check each fluid in the vehicles when we'd service them. Not once did I ever see a strip come up on a vehicle needing the brake fluid changed. If you have to replace a caliper, hose, or master cylinder, do it then, but otherwise I think you're wasting your money.
Most vehicles use transmission fluid as a power steering fluid. I DO believe in changing your power steering fluid on an as-needed basis. In other words, when it starts to turn brown, change it.
Most coolants these days are designed to last 100,000 miles unless you're using the old green stuff. That stuff (and you can include GM Dexcool) is pretty notorious for breaking down quickly, so I would shorten that interval by quite a bit. I've replaced more radiators than I can count because people have failed to flush their coolant system. Check it regularly, when it starts not looking like its original color anymore, change it.
Most everybody's "A/C service" is nothing more than spraying a can of frigi-fresh into the vents and cleaning out the drain hose. If your vents start to stink or you start getting water dripping into the floorboard when the A/C is on, it's time to do it.
Air filters/cabin filters. Check them at each oil change interval. Hold them up to the light. If you can't see light, change them.
Cleaning/Adjusting brakes on a vehicle with disc brakes is stealing. If your parking brake isn't loose, don't do it. Check the brake pads every oil change. If they seem to be wearing unevenly, pull the caliper slide pins out and lubricate them. Otherwise, change the pads when they get to 2/32" and you're fine. No need to replace your rotors or resurface them every time you change your brakes. If they're not vibrating when you brake, they're fine. It's just our way of getting an extra $100+ out of you.
For alignments, obviously if the vehicle is pulling to one side or the other and the tire pressures are correct, you more than likely need an alignment. Otherwise, keep an eye on the wear patterns on the tires. A vehicle can be out of alignment and not necessarily have a pull. It can be toe'd in or out, the camber can be off, etc. You'll know by the way the tires are wearing. If they start wearing unevenly, align it.
Fuel services are hit and miss. With the new found popularity of turbo engines, I do think they're important, but for those of you (like me) who are running older vehicles, a quality fuel is pretty sufficient for keeping the injectors and valves clean. Stick with a brand you've heard of...Shell, BP, Sunoco. Stay away from Sheetz, Citgo, and mom and pop's station on the corner. Clean your throttle body when you start to feel a little rough idle.
Oil changes are very dependent on your driving habits. If you do mostly highway driving, you can squeeze a lot of extra mileage out of your oil. If you're driving in the city, obviously you need to change your oil quite a bit more frequently.
Last, but definitely NOT least...change your transmission fluid as often as you can reasonably afford to do it. This is the single most important aspect of getting a car to last a long time. I cannot stress this enough, there's no such thing as a lifetime fluid. Your transmission gets almost as hot as your engine does and you change your engine oil every 5k-15k miles so why would you ever go 100,000 miles between transmission fluid changes? Think about it and change your transmission fluid frequently.