Author Topic: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada  (Read 3251 times)

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« on: August 14, 2016, 07:41:53 AM »
Hi DIYers,

I have a couple of weeks off from work.  I decided that a great activity would be to repaint the wood exterior bits on the front of our home.  Like most things with older homes, simple tasks soon balloon into larger ones.  After a quick inspection and random scraping, I discovered that the wood is quite swollen / rotten (see attached).  It will have to be replaced.

Our home has wood paneling on the top half of our front exterior (lower half is brick).  We also have cathedral ceilings with ceiling-high windows, so the amount of wood siding on our home is limited to 3 simple sections approximately 3'x5', 4'x8', and 3'x5'.  My thought is to use engineered wood panels (like http://www.lpsmartside.com/products/panel/) as it comes in 4'x8' sheets.  This would allow seamless coverage of the 3 sections.  Thoughts on this or any other product?

Another thought is that, while I'm at it, I could add a layer of insulation (http://www.roxul.com/products/residential/products/roxul+comfortboard+80) and tyvek wrap.  Good idea?

Any experiences or advice would be appreciated!

BudgetSlasher

  • Handlebar Stache
  • *****
  • Posts: 1212
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2016, 08:51:26 AM »
I cannot offer any help with the material choice, but let me offer two thoughts/issues.

First, I alway operate under a rule of thumb for DIY'ing things (especially were there is an element of unknown) take your estimate of time and cost and double the cost and triple the time and you are close. I would anticipate that there is at least some damage site unseen behind the sheathing, be it molded insulation or rotted framing and correct/repair/replace it (and if there isn't be pleasantly surprised).

Second, regarding the insulation house wrap/insulation (which I assume will be in addition to what may be there are over the framing not between them). I see that the product you linked is a rigid board, I am not sure of its moisture permeability, but your wall needs to be able to dry. What you do not want to happen is there to be a moisture barrier on both the inside of the wall (some homes where built with plastic under the drywall) and the outside (a new layer of rigid insulation). The trapped moisture will will remain trapped and be impacted by seasonal temperature changes (for example "condensing"; quotation marks are related to a later link). This can be avoided by have a sufficient insulation on the exterior. For a starting point on this sse this link http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/calculating-minimum-thickness-rigid-foam-sheathing.

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2016, 11:12:52 AM »
Thanks BudgetSlasher.

The spec sheet on the Roxul Comfortboard states that it is vapour permeable.  Since the interior of our home has (or eventually will have) vapour barrier directly behind the drywall, I believe this is the right product for the exterior.  There should be no placec for moisture to be trapped.

Fishindude

  • Magnum Stache
  • ******
  • Posts: 3075
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2016, 11:34:02 AM »
Just a thought.

Guessing that material might be redwood or cedar?
Looks like only the bottom several inches of the siding is bad.   Consider making a very neat horizontal cut with a circular saw set to correct depth and carefully remove only bottom +/- 6"-8" of that siding.   Replace with new redwood or cedar material a bit thicker than what is there creating a large continuous horizontal base molding.   Caulk perimeters and joints, then paint everything to match and it looks like it was built that way from the start.

SwordGuy

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 8955
  • Location: Fayetteville, NC
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2016, 11:54:33 AM »
If you're going to remove the entire board (instead of the good idea directly above), consider using Hardee board siding.  It's a cement-impregnated fiber so it's not going to rot.  Inexpensive, too. 

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2016, 12:39:05 PM »
Just a thought.

Guessing that material might be redwood or cedar?
Looks like only the bottom several inches of the siding is bad.   Consider making a very neat horizontal cut with a circular saw set to correct depth and carefully remove only bottom +/- 6"-8" of that siding.   Replace with new redwood or cedar material a bit thicker than what is there creating a large continuous horizontal base molding.   Caulk perimeters and joints, then paint everything to match and it looks like it was built that way from the start.

The damage extends upwards unfortunately.  Also - I'm not sure if I'm into the look of a horizontal base molding - but it sure would make things easier.

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2016, 12:40:33 PM »
If you're going to remove the entire board (instead of the good idea directly above), consider using Hardee board siding.  It's a cement-impregnated fiber so it's not going to rot.  Inexpensive, too.

I'll take a look at Hardee.  The reason I gravitated towards the LP product was that is was rot resistant, cheap, and available at our local HD.

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2016, 12:41:00 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions folks.  I appreciate it.

J_Stache

  • Stubble
  • **
  • Posts: 106
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #8 on: August 15, 2016, 01:19:44 PM »
The moisture issue you are seeing is due to poor flashing (most likely water is wicking up from the stone).  Make sure to flash and provide a discontinuity to prevent this in the future.

Goldielocks

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 7062
  • Location: BC
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2016, 01:38:52 PM »
If you're going to remove the entire board (instead of the good idea directly above), consider using Hardee board siding.  It's a cement-impregnated fiber so it's not going to rot.  Inexpensive, too.

I'll take a look at Hardee.  The reason I gravitated towards the LP product was that is was rot resistant, cheap, and available at our local HD.

I installed Hardie Panel over the plywood sheathing of our 1971 home.  You will need 2 people for hardie, as it is very heavy cement-based board.  Paints up nicely if you buy the pre-painted (the primed only may be rougher) and looks like wood when done.  Wears out sawblades quickly, use the corrosion resistant nails or screws.   

Your selection of material looks nice, though, can you paint it?  Also check the weight, it may be lighter than Hardie.
Both will need the trim reinstalled / replaced.

The insulation is a great idea, as it is permeable, watch out for changing the depth of your trim and the insulation + panel might be thicker.  Good Luck!

Once last comment -- our home had tar paper used as the vapour barrier, and it had many tears/ gaps.  Replacing with a new sealed vapour barrier under drywall eliminated many drafts and added a lot of insulating value to the home. / lower heating costs.


powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #10 on: August 16, 2016, 11:08:40 AM »
I installed Hardie Panel over the plywood sheathing of our 1971 home.  You will need 2 people for hardie, as it is very heavy cement-based board.  Paints up nicely if you buy the pre-painted (the primed only may be rougher) and looks like wood when done.  Wears out sawblades quickly, use the corrosion resistant nails or screws.   

Your selection of material looks nice, though, can you paint it?  Also check the weight, it may be lighter than Hardie.
Both will need the trim reinstalled / replaced.

The LP product is light, rot resistant and paintable.  I think I'll stick with it as I'll be doing this solo.

The insulation is a great idea, as it is permeable, watch out for changing the depth of your trim and the insulation + panel might be thicker.  Good Luck!

I'm pulling back on this plan - at least for now.  The insulation requires strapping between it and the finishing panel so that would mean 2 - 2.5"  added depth.  This would require new flashing around the windows, as well as different trim on the corners of our home.  I think I'll delay this until later when I have time to do it properly.  If I just replace the existing boards, I should be able to use all of the same flashing.

Once last comment -- our home had tar paper used as the vapour barrier, and it had many tears/ gaps.  Replacing with a new sealed vapour barrier under drywall eliminated many drafts and added a lot of insulating value to the home. / lower heating costs.

I believe Our home is the same.  I'm also replacing our front door and surrounding drywall and was surprised to find tar paper (as well as a surprising lack of insulation around the door frame).  It's all getting the proper vapour barrier treatment, but it makes me want to rip off and replace all the drywall.  I think this will be one of my post FIRE tasks :)

Goldielocks

  • Walrus Stache
  • *******
  • Posts: 7062
  • Location: BC
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #11 on: August 16, 2016, 11:51:14 AM »


I believe Our home is the same.  I'm also replacing our front door and surrounding drywall and was surprised to find tar paper (as well as a surprising lack of insulation around the door frame).  It's all getting the proper vapour barrier treatment, but it makes me want to rip off and replace all the drywall.  I think this will be one of my post FIRE tasks :)

I am certain that the new vapour barrier was more effective than the added insulation, in reducing our heating costs.  It helps that we took out the brick chimney and put in a zero clearance fireplace (gas).  The chimney leaked air like an open door, both around the outside / roof flashing, as well as up the flue.

I hope you get to enjoy some of your summer, though, and not just work all the time.

powersuitrecall

  • Pencil Stache
  • ****
  • Posts: 515
  • Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Replacing wood siding on mid-60s bungalow in Canada
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2016, 09:47:03 AM »
I started the job today.  I have a couple of more boards to take down still, but you can get an idea of what I'm dealing with by the attached pic.

The rot is definitely coming from the bottom, then up.  Under the siding, there is tar paper and strapping over plywood.  Unfortunately the plywood is soft underneath (at the bottom).

I'm wondering whether I should continue the job (replace the siding & seal) or dig deeper. Although I only intend on this being a 4 year fix, I would like to ensure that things don't degrade further.

The moisture issue you are seeing is due to poor flashing (most likely water is wicking up from the stone).  Make sure to flash and provide a discontinuity to prevent this in the future.

Jnos - Can you expand on "providing a discontinuity"?  Do you mean leave space for water/moisture to escape at the bottom? 

<off to youtube>