Gas Stove Installation and flex pipe fittings?

[jeromedawg]

Hey all,

Just picked up a open box deal from BestBuy for a GE oven range/over range microwave. Never removed or installed a stove before so curious to know how to size the pipe fitting for this. The 'female' connection on the new stove is 3/4" per a caliper. It looks like the old stove may be using the same size threads too so I was considering just disconnecting it and refitting into the new one. Bad idea? Should I just get a new set all together? I tried turning the adapter where it's connected to the old stove and it won't budge - I think it may be held in place (permanently) with sealant?

I'm in SoCal if it makes a difference (I think I read something about "6 feet" length of flex pipe)








Any suggestions/ideas on how to proceed?

[lthenderson]

I usually replace the flexible gas lines whenever I replace a gas appliance but that is just my personal preference. I don't know what their lifetimes are rated at. I didn't see you mention it but make sure you get a can of gas pipe dope to put on the threads when making the connections and check all the joints with soapy water at full pressure before sliding the new stove back into place.

[jeromedawg]

I usually replace the flexible gas lines whenever I replace a gas appliance but that is just my personal preference. I don't know what their lifetimes are rated at. I didn't see you mention it but make sure you get a can of gas pipe dope to put on the threads when making the connections and check all the joints with soapy water at full pressure before sliding the new stove back into place.

Thanks for the tip! I will probably get a new one. Just not sure how to confirm what the size is and if this is actually 1/2 or 5/8. I may have pipe dope but will have to check - is there a specific brand or type I need? I have heard of using soapy water to check the connections/joints though. Should I use teflon tape or pipe sealant for making any connections? Or is pipe dope good for all connections? EDIT: Oh wait, looks like pipe dope *is* the sealant right? I guess once it's on it's never intended for removal/re-use?
The install manual says to use adapter union fittings btw - so looks like I'll need possibly one or two of those and then the flex hose? Any recommendations on the hose diameter size? 1/2" all the way through?

[Wrenchturner]

NPT is hard to measure.  Sounds like you have 1/2"NPT.  And the sticker lists performance ratings for 1/2" as well.

Use a pipe dope that is compliant with your regulations.  Jet Lube or similar.  Teflon may not be compliant with your local regulations.

It's not intended to be reused.  If you encounter a flare fitting, don't use pipe dope on it.  I'm assuming you won't encounter a flare fitting.  50/50 dish soap/water is a useful mix for spray testing.  Use a spray bottle to apply.

Regulations will specify hose diameter.  Probably 1/2" throughout.

Might want to clean the threads off with a brush too if the old pipe dope is staying behind.

[jeromedawg]

NPT is hard to measure.  Sounds like you have 1/2"NPT.  And the sticker lists performance ratings for 1/2" as well.

Use a pipe dope that is compliant with your regulations.  Jet Lube or similar.  Teflon may not be compliant with your local regulations.

It's not intended to be reused.  If you encounter a flare fitting, don't use pipe dope on it.  I'm assuming you won't encounter a flare fitting.  50/50 dish soap/water is a useful mix for spray testing.  Use a spray bottle to apply.

Regulations will specify hose diameter.  Probably 1/2" throughout.

Might want to clean the threads off with a brush too if the old pipe dope is staying behind.

Thanks. Is there a good site that will show me what the local regulations are or how to know what is compliant and what is't? Does this vary by city, county, state, etc?

As far as flare fittings, it seems like the one attached to the old stove has pipe dope or sealant on it - I can't get the thing to budge - I'm assuming it shouldn't be *that* hard to remove?

Hmmm, I got a better image of the flex pipe fitting - looks like an ".50 ID"


So I'm assuming a 1/2" hose will do? Or is that completely wrong? Haha.. BTW: "flare fitting" - is that the same as a union adapter?


Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-4-ft-Gas-Range-Connector-Kit-with-Auto-Shut-Off-PM15X113DS/205558299



I noticed it's a "5/8 OD" so it would make sense if the ID on a connector that has a 5/8 OD is normally ".50 ID" - looks like it comes with a small amount of sealant and leak detector too... I'm guessing this is likely the one I need so I'll probably just set-up a pickup at Home Depot and get it tomorrow.


Oh was also wondering what the deal is with the yellow-coated flex connectors vs the 'standard' stainless ones?
https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-PM15X104-Universal-48-Inches/dp/B00FI6TJ08/
(BTW: I'd probably just order from Amazon if it wasn't for the long shipping times - earliest I can get something by is May 1st!!!!)

Are the yellow coated ones more durable or something?

[lthenderson]

Pipe dope is a sealant and has a paste consistency and it will say on the can that it is for pressurized gas lines. Although they do make tapes similar to what you would use for a water connection, I don't like to use them because every single one I've ever taken apart years later is full of very brittle tape. They are also not to code in many places.  The pipe dope that is a paste is still malleable which gives me confidence that it will retain its integrity for a long long time.

In your case, you don't have any union joints or flared fittings so you don't need to worry about it. Just apply pipe dope to the male threads on both ends and connect the hose up. I like to wipe away any excess pipe dope that squirts out of the joint as you are tightening it and then do a soapy water test once you turned the gas on to verify no leaks. I have never found a leak using pipe dope but I have found the occasional union joint that didn't seat quite right or had some imperfection that prevented it from sealing completely.

[Wrenchturner]

Thanks. Is there a good site that will show me what the local regulations are or how to know what is compliant and what is't? Does this vary by city, county, state, etc?

Probably, and yes.

As far as flare fittings, it seems like the one attached to the old stove has pipe dope or sealant on it - I can't get the thing to budge - I'm assuming it shouldn't be *that* hard to remove?

Pipe fittings and flares can be very hard to remove.  You might need a flare wrench.  You'll probably have better luck unscrewing the pipe fitting from the regulator rather than backing off the fitting at the end of the hose.

So I'm assuming a 1/2" hose will do? Or is that completely wrong? Haha.. BTW: "flare fitting" - is that the same as a union adapter?

Union adapters generally adapt flares to pipe fittings in your case.  Hoses are usually flare fittings.

Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-4-ft-Gas-Range-Connector-Kit-with-Auto-Shut-Off-PM15X113DS/205558299

That looks about right.  Notice the union adapter already attached in the bottom right.

Oh was also wondering what the deal is with the yellow-coated flex connectors vs the 'standard' stainless ones?
https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-PM15X104-Universal-48-Inches/dp/B00FI6TJ08/
(BTW: I'd probably just order from Amazon if it wasn't for the long shipping times - earliest I can get something by is May 1st!!!!)

Are the yellow coated ones more durable or something?

Yellow coatings are probably to comply with regulations.  Don't buy a gas fitting on Amazon, unless it comes in a branded package from a reputable manufacturer.

[Wrenchturner]

Pipe thread vs flare.

Flares have a sealing surface, like a gasket, and the threaded components apply pressure to the sealing surface, which deforms.  This is a compression fit.

Pipe thread uses the threads to seal, and does NOT have a sealing surface.  This is called an interference fit.  Use pipe dope here.


In your example, confirm that you have a flare fitting at the red valve outlet and the inlet to the hose.  Do NOT mix flares and pipe threads!

Here's a vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idUF6Yzh8jE

Also: install the pipe fitting into the stove BEFORE you install the flare on the red valve.  Confirm you have a flare fitting at the red valve BEFORE doing anything else.  Flares are not reusable, and you will have to rotate the hose to install the pipe fitting at the stove.

(Consider hiring someone for this)

[jeromedawg]

Thanks guys. I installed everything and it was pretty straightforward. The kit came with the sealant and also the leak detector solution - no bubbles or anything like that after sealing all threads on the male sides. I just had a flare that needed to be attached to the oven range and the flex hose fit the valve threads just fine in place of the old flex hose.

Everything seems to be working now - tested the burners and the oven. I was curious since this is a GE convection oven and I've never owned one before let alone a convection oven. I noticed, at least when preheating, that the fan turns on as expected in convection bake mode. If I open the door the fan halts, which I would expect. However, when I close the door the fan doesn't resume spinning, which I would sort of expect.


Was also curious but besides checking the burners and making sure the bake/broil functions are OK (as far as lighting up/igniting) are there any other prep/safety things I really ought to consider doing at least prior to actually baking or broiling food? e.g. Should I just leave the oven on baking, broiling and or convection baking with nothing in it for X minutes ? I only checked briefly that the functions are working which was no longer than a few minutes max.

EDIT: actually, I just ran the convection oven function for a good 10-15 mins. Seems fine. The fan only engages initially then cycles off in preheat. Once it's up to temp, it cycles on and off like every 20-30 seconds maybe. I think the convection functions on gas differ slightly than those on electrics - I believe with electrics they run more constantly. I read somewhere on GE's site that on the gas convection appliances the fan stops running when the igniter is lit to increase temp, and only resumes running after it stops actively burning. I'm assuming this is to avoid any potential explosions lol...

[lthenderson]

When I put in our new oven last fall, the directions said to run it through a clean cycle which took several hours. I assumed it was to remove any residual grease or oils that remained behind from the metal forming process.

[jeromedawg]

When I put in our new oven last fall, the directions said to run it through a clean cycle which took several hours. I assumed it was to remove any residual grease or oils that remained behind from the metal forming process.

Ah, good idea. I think I'll probably run that then. My oven has a little area where you're supposed to pour water. Not sure if you're supposed to do that at the start or what. Guess I should check the manual lol.

Anyway, here's the new one: