Author Topic: Garage Upgrade  (Read 4172 times)

etotheix

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Garage Upgrade
« on: October 24, 2015, 08:44:46 PM »
Hi All,

Our house has a "garage" that's a few doors & finished walls short of being a garage.  It was built by the previous owner several decades (I think) ago, and I guess they just never wanted to use it as a finished garage.  I do.

You can see from the front there is a currently just a big cutout, and a very non-standard door opening.  On the house side of the garage, there is no siding, just some vertical "lattice."

What is involved in framing for some modern garage doors (and installing them) & siding the unsided part?  I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but know essentially nothing about carpentry.  What's a ball park to have a pro do it?  Is it something you would call a regular garage contractor to get a quote for?

Pictures below:







Spork

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2015, 10:16:24 AM »
[ I'm not a carpenter.  Take anything I say with a grain of salt.  Everything I know is either from tearing existing buildings apart or from watching "This Old House" type shows. ]

Replacing the 'lattice' with siding should be super simple.  Pull it off, put matching siding up.  Done.

What does the framing look like on the existing garage door openings look like?  The reason I ask is that when I look at the little door opening framing that heads toward your house... it looks like that is put together with 2x4s and no header.  This makes me a little worried about the larger opening and whether it's got a sufficient header to span that distance.  (I can't say I know what size header you'd need.)

If you have reasonable structure... I'd just frame those openings out to match a standard sized garage door and start from there.  And I'd probably slap some drywall on the interior walls/ceiling.

Nice old truck, btw.

etotheix

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2015, 11:43:45 AM »


The header appears to be 2 parts.  The bottom half is a piece of timber that's 3"x6".  The top half is 3"x7", but is bolted at regular intervals so it might two 1.5"x7" pieces bolted together.  The post in the center is 6"x6", and the posts at the ends are doubled up piece that measure 2"x4" (not 2x4s).

Thanks!

paddedhat

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2015, 05:09:17 PM »
Given the board sheathing (as compared to the more typical plywood used since WWII) and the color of the wood, my guess is that it's a LOT older than you might be guessing. That said it looks like it's wonderfully straight with a nice crisp ridge line.

The easiest part of your quest would be the lattice area. This would need sheathing, like plywood or chipboard, nailed to the studs, then building paper (Tyvek, tarpaper, etc..) and siding installed. My biggest concern is if the original studs are correctly installed on 16" or 24" centers to allow the installation of sheathing. When old buildings were sheathed in boards, such precision was occasionally ignored.

The garage door openings are another matter. Garage doors are spoken of by their width x height dimensions, such as 8'x7', 9'x7', 9'x8', etc..  The rough openings are typically 3" wider and 1-1/2" taller than the door to allow for a piece of 2x6, or similar to be used to finish the opening. In this case it might be a fairly simple matter of reframing two openings in the existing "holes". Given what appears to be unusual amounts of height in the original openings, it is possible that additional headers could be added, like a pair of 2x12s, above each opening and still provide room for an 8' tall door. What are the exact dimensions of each opening?

etotheix

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2015, 05:38:58 PM »
When old buildings were sheathed in boards, such precision was occasionally ignored.

The garage door openings are another matter. Garage doors are spoken of by their width x height dimensions, such as 8'x7', 9'x7', 9'x8', etc..  The rough openings are typically 3" wider and 1-1/2" taller than the door to allow for a piece of 2x6, or similar to be used to finish the opening. In this case it might be a fairly simple matter of reframing two openings in the existing "holes". Given what appears to be unusual amounts of height in the original openings, it is possible that additional headers could be added, like a pair of 2x12s, above each opening and still provide room for an 8' tall door. What are the exact dimensions of each opening?

The studs are 24" on center (except for the frames that define the door).

The current opening is 100" tall in the center, 101.5" at one end, and and 100.5" at the other.  The opening is 226" in total width, 102" for the narrow opening, 6" for the post, and 118" for the wide one.  I assume that post could go wherever once it's framed for two actual garage door openings.

Is it relatively straightforward to get the siding to match?

KarefulKactus15

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2015, 08:58:38 PM »
The inside wood looks like my grandpas old shed, like 40 years old. Not saying it is, it just looks like it lol. 

I have nothing else for you except this, if you want to get some framing / siding hands on, you can volunteer with habitat for humanity on select days. ( they post what task are being done on what day). 

I read it on another post here.  Anyway It really boosted my "house stuff" confidence. Im no pro, but I know a ton more than I did before volunteering a few days. 

worms

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2015, 02:06:20 AM »
It's a lovely old garage, do you really need to change it?  The slatted portion at the back looks like a log (or peat :) ) store.  Don't know where you are, but in my experience, wooden garages are much warmer and drier and much less prone to condensation than concrete and so much better for old vehicles - if you are closing it all in, make sure you keep plenty of airflow.

kendallf

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2015, 06:30:27 AM »
The current opening is 100" tall in the center, 101.5" at one end, and and 100.5" at the other.  The opening is 226" in total width, 102" for the narrow opening, 6" for the post, and 118" for the wide one.  I assume that post could go wherever once it's framed for two actual garage door openings.

Is it relatively straightforward to get the siding to match?

The easiest thing, from the dimensions you listed, would be to put an 8' door in each opening, framed appropriately.  I think I would add some framing in the middle between the doors to beef up that single post, along with a better header above the door if possible. 

If it were mine, I would be tempted to re-do the header and put a single 16' door in there.  Currently I have a garage with two single doors, and it limits your options for working on cars inside (i.e., it's very hard to jockey a car around inside to get it in the middle of the garage with the center post in the way).  This would be harder as it would require putting up a temporary load bearing wall or at least jacks while you replaced the header.  I have done this twice recently on a friend's house; we just framed up a wall about 1' in back of the existing opening, cut out the old header, and put in a new one.  You can get an engineered beam for the opening from HD or Lowe's.  Most places this would require a structural permit and inspection.

Do you want to match the cedar shingle siding that's on the front (and on the house, looks like?)  Those are readily available and easy to install.

Fishindude

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2015, 03:12:29 PM »
This sin't a bad job for anyone with basic carpentry skills.
I'd probably replace the headers completely and go with a large single OH door or two smaller ones.   Same deal on the walk door, re-frame the opening to accept a standard exterior door.   tear off that lath, cover the studs with plywood or OSB, then re-side everything to match.

Could make a real nice weather tight, lockable, secure finished garage for not a lot of money.
Would probably just call and OH door guy and have the doors installed with electric operators.  You won't save much on those DIY, and may screw them up where they won't operate real good.

paddedhat

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2015, 04:47:06 PM »
With the stated dimensions you could easily frame a pair of standard 9x7 doors in the front, including full, double 2x12 headers, into the existing opening. The issue is that the ascetics would be pretty awful, with two large doors nearly touching. The idea to go with something like a 16x8 is probably best in this situation,  kendallf is correct, it involves a pretty substantial engineered lumber beam to replace the current set-up.

If I was tackling this, I would oversize the beam as much as practical, which really isn't a big deal, since upsizing a beam isn't too terribly expensive. If you go to an actual lumberyard with the dimensions, and other info (roof pitch, building depth, wall thickness, no second floor or attic loads, etc...) they will provide free engineering from their supplier. The other thing I would recommend is to go with a professionally installed door with the commercial torsion style springs. It's a cheap upgrade, and eliminates the more traditional extension style springs, which suck in so many ways. At the start of my building career I lifted the garage door of my client's nearly finished house, and heard a noise like a bomb going off. The extension spring broke, kinked a substantial metal bracket, and shot into the drywall, like an arrow. That was the day I switched to torsion springs.

lthenderson

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Re: Garage Upgrade
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2015, 07:26:09 AM »
If I were doing it, I would buy a c-channel that I could bolt to the existing header pieces from the inside that spans the entire width and just remove that center post and make it a single garage opening. Garage doors can be ordered to the nearest inch for width and they can adjust the height to fit your opening. This way you aren't limited to a narrow opening if you want to tuck a boat or something into the half bay later on.

For you lattice, I would remove it, sheath it with OSB plywood and then get matching siding and paint. You can try color matching the paint to get it as close as possible and as long as you do the entire side, it will never be noticed.

 

Wow, a phone plan for fifteen bucks!