framing out and installing windows - how hard can it be?

[nereo]

Well my saga to put in windows in my enclosed patio continues...

I've received three quotes for a complete installation ranging from $6k to $9k.  The cost of the windows themselves is approximately $1500 (5 windows that are 36" x 60").  The run-up in cost is the 'installation' which is includes framing out each window.  Currently there is nothing there but giant sheets of plexi and a center support beam. 

To me it seems pretty straightforward - a lot of measuring and cutting of 2x4s to frame out the windows, and then hanging the windows.  I've never done this before, but I'm moderately handy - I build simple bookcases and installed my own hardwood floor with no issues.

Is this much harder than I'm anticipating?

[Greg]

It doesn't sound hard, but it is likely tedious. Not ditch-digging tedious, but not "fun".  You can totally do it.  For modern 3050 windows, the rough opening is 3' x 5', and the window is about 1/2" smaller than than in each direction.  This allows for some wiggle room for out-of square and thermal expansion.  Your windows should have a label on them to explain best installation methods.  Having a friend to help with the lifting is nice.

[nereo]

a few pictures probably will do a much better job of illustrating what I'm dealing with

Top picture:  All of that trim would come out (it's 1x3) and be re-framed with 2x4s.  The header would be several inches lower than the current top of the plexi.
Question:  Any reason I need cripple-studs above the header, or could the header attach directly to the ceiling joists (to give me the maximum-sized windows)?

bottom picture:  the large beam closest is the only part I would be keeping, since it supports the porch roof above.  The current 'sill' below the plexi is 2x4 with really cheap rough trim around it (all of the trim has to go regardless - it's cheap and was done poorly).  The plexi is caulked shut, and a major reason why I want to change this.  It has no insulation value, and in the summer it traps heat and turns that space into a sauna since I can't get any ventilation.

[Jmoody10]

Framing windows isn't too difficult (and for reference - my background is in IT).

If you put the header directing below the top plate, you don't need the cripple studs. The cripple studs just provide a way to transfer load to the header and to provide additional nailing surface. In the attachment, you can see a 30x40 window being framed. We have two studs next to the window so that we can secure wider trim around it.

[Jmoody10]

And what is on the outside of that wall? If you are concerned about water tightness - look up some youtube videos on window flashing.

[jba302]

It doesn't sound hard, but it is likely tedious. Not ditch-digging tedious, but not "fun". 

This is exactly how I would describe it. It isn't conceptually hard, but getting the window hung dead square can be annoying.

[waffle]

My brother is a framer and I've helped him put in several windows. Like others have said its really not hard.

[nereo]

Framing windows isn't too difficult (and for reference - my background is in IT).

If you put the header directing below the top plate, you don't need the cripple studs. The cripple studs just provide a way to transfer load to the header and to provide additional nailing surface. In the attachment, you can see a 30x40 window being framed. We have two studs next to the window so that we can secure wider trim around it.

Thanks all - you've confirmed my belief that it really shouldn't be too hard with my skill-set.  Probably an annoying long weekend framing, measuring, and then working to get the window hung dead square.  The framing part looks particularly straightforward, and it annoys me that each of the contractors (with eyes lighting up like dollar-signs) charged a fortune for it.  Shouldn't cost me more than $100 in lumber and I already have the tools.

And what is on the outside of that wall? If you are concerned about water tightness - look up some youtube videos on window flashing.

On the other side is a courtyard that's largely composed of parking spaces and people's sheds.  I don't care *at all* how it looks since I'll never see it, and judging what else is back there my neighbors won't care much either.  Currently there's just drain pipes and plexi - below me is chicken wire (literally) so anything I do will be an improvement, aesthetically.
I will definitely put up window flashing for water tightness - watched a few of Bob Villa's videos and it seems easy enough... membrane, caulk, insulation, caulk, foam, caulk, flashing, caulk.  And then caulk.  Annoying, but doable. 

[Jack]

Question:  Any reason I need cripple-studs above the header, or could the header attach directly to the ceiling joists (to give me the maximum-sized windows)?

I'm not a contractor, but I think you could put the windows all the way up to the top plate if you really wanted -- since there's no structure there now, the new wall will clearly not be load-bearing, therefore no header is actually necessary.

Of course, I recommend that the top of the windows match the top of the other windows on the house, just for aesthetic reasons.

[nereo]

Alright, you guys have convinced me that this isn't a project I should shy away from.
The project can conveniently be divided into two sections on either side of the only load-bearing pillar.   I'll start on the first section as soon as I can get the windows (which might take a few weeks because of other commitments).

One question I have - the non-framed opening is 91" W x 65" high.  At first I Was planning on 'framing in place' but that seems tedious.  The opening is remarkably square (only about 0.5" difference between the left and right side) - any problems with framing out the space on the ground and then lifting and fitting into place (obviously with the help of someone else) - much in the way you'd frame a non-load bearing wall and then stand it upright?  My rationalization is that it will be easier to keep the rough openings for the windows square this way, and I can shim as necessary to mate the 'frame' with the existing opening.

thoughts?

[Mrs. PoP]

We "framed in place" when we did ours two weekends ago and it was pretty easy.  Can't imaging it'd be that much easier to do it and then fit the large piece in.  Might even be more frustrating if it's a smidge too big and you need to undo more work.  Just learn from our mistake and double check that the studs you're attaching to for the framing are plum before you start framing stuff out.  =P