Fire sprinkler system exit drain leaking...

[jeromedawg]

Hey guys,

So here are a couple pictures of the drainage valve and drain from the fire sprinkler system, which was built into the condo I'm at (really strange - I don't know of many condos that have fire sprinkler systems installed... and they are the responsibility of the homeowner, which is a headache):

Ball valve on top (which is directly about 3-4ft above the drain):


Drain spigot underneath:


There's actually one for our sprinkler system and one for the upstairs neighbor's which both exit into my yard. I noticed this morning that both of them are dripping - not sure how long they've been doing this but I'm wondering if that's normal... they haven't leaked like this in a long time - at least for mine and ever since I had them do a leaky sprinkler head replacement years ago.

Since the one pictured exits over our WOOD deck (brilliant idea from the developers who built this place), I connected a PVC pipe over it to run it out to the paved yard so the deck won't rot.

Otherwise, I'm not sure how to stop the dripping - both valves only turn maybe a quarter way and I have no idea what is open and what is closed - I know those old ball valves have the tendency to go faulty as well.

According to the HOA, the entire fire sprinkler system is the responsibility of the homeowner, which makes little sense to me. And hiring a fire-certified plumbing company is super expensive too.

Is there a way to just remove or disable the sprinkler system? When they replaced the sprinkler head a long time ago, he was showing me the pressure control valve/alarm that starts ringing too if pressure goes too low - this panel is in the garage but I don't remember exactly what he showed me to do.

Anyone have advice on what to do here? It really is a thorn in the side. And the HOA is of little help too.

[Greg]

It looks like the handle part of a typical valve (don't think it's a ball valve, but instead a gate valve or stop valve), and can likely be dismantled (at the threaded part between the knob and wall) and renewed.  Typically there's a washer (for a stop valve) or other seal inside, causing the leak out of the spigot, and a packing seal around the knob shaft.  Nothing lasts forever, at least it's somewhat accessible and with a trip or two to the hardware store you should be in good shape.

Different valves explained here:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/valves/plumbing-valve-basics/view-all

[Telecaster]

Sorry I don't have specific advice, but here are a couple things to think about:   Is the fire sprinkler system required by code?   If it is, then you do need to have it inspected by a certified inspector, usually annually.   It if it isn't, I'd think about removing it if the HOA will allow it. 

[jeromedawg]

It looks like the handle part of a typical valve (don't think it's a ball valve, but instead a gate valve or stop valve), and can likely be dismantled (at the threaded part between the knob and wall) and renewed.  Typically there's a washer (for a stop valve) or other seal inside, causing the leak out of the spigot, and a packing seal around the knob shaft.  Nothing lasts forever, at least it's somewhat accessible and with a trip or two to the hardware store you should be in good shape.

Different valves explained here:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/valves/plumbing-valve-basics/view-all

Ahhh yes... doh - not a ball valve. That's what they usually replace these gate/stop valves with and what they replaced our main water shut-off with when the gate valve on that broke. Sorry, got my terminology all wrong.

As far as removing the valve, etc. doesn't that require use of a welder? And if I find that the sprinkler system is in fact required by code, like Telecaster was asking, then I don't think I'd really be able to mess with this would I (since it would involve turning down the pressure and dealing with the alarm before I can remove/replace the valve)?

[jeromedawg]

Uh oh, so I turned it counter-clockwise again and it seems like it opened up the flow this time and water started flowing out of the spigot below.... I'm not sure if this is releasing the stored up water and pressure in the piping for all the sprinkler heads or if I'm supposed to be doing that. I'm also not 100% sure if that's the release for our sprinkler system or for our neighbors.

Just checked the water pressure gauge for the fire protection/sprinkler system and it's at 70psi. Not sure what it was at before or if it has always been at this level.

[jeromedawg]

Pressure dropped to 65psi. Not sure if this is normal or not. I'm going to keep monitoring it. I've called a few plumbing companies so far but they're probably not working or something.

[jeromedawg]

Got in touch with a local guy who does fire protection/inspection/repair services.  Asked me to text him some pics so I did and he says it looks like the inspector's test valve that's leaking. He's coming tomorrow morning to check it out - I'm hoping he'll just do the inspection and replace the valve and hopefully it won't cost too much. I think for fire-related stuff, you generally don't want to mess with DIYing it unless you yourself are certified. It would be really bad if I tried fixing this and made it worse or caused other problems with the system (I know there's an alarm that will sound off if the PSI in the system hits a certain point....and that really wouldn't be funny, since I'm in a condo with lots of neighbors).

[jeromedawg]

Latest update: LOL the guy came out, took a look, got his wrench, and tightened our valve as well as the neighbors. Charged $65 but explained how I could fix it again (just by tightening with a wrench like he did) and then also described to me how the sprinkler system works and how the bell is supposed to work and go off (when I open the valve fully to release water). He said I could technically do the 'inspection' myself but that I should check and make sure I'm not being monitored by the FD beforehand, so they don't send a truck out in response.

Ah well... hopefully the dripping is gone. I'll need to keep checking throughout the day but I think it should be taken care of for the most part.

He did say that if the system is messed up and if he has to replace the valve/spigot, he'd have to rip open the wall to access all the piping, and ballpark-estimated $600-700 for the work, not including patching it back up :T