I am going to agree with Greg.
There is a wattage restriction on your existing light fixtures, which is actual wattage not wattage equivalent. For example a 60 watt-equivalent LED draws less than 10 watts, which means that you can put a much higher watt-equivalent into the fixture and still not exceed its rating or need to replace the fixture.
The kitchen in our current house has 5 can lights rated for 60 watts, when we moved in they contained incandescent bulbs and made the kitchen feel like a dreary place when you were relying on the light fixtures for all or most of the lighting. We replaced the bulbs with 125 watt-equivalent daylight (~5000-65000k) bulbs and it really worked wonders.
We also installed a dimmer on the bulbs, because well sometimes it is too bright.
It is hard to tell from your post, but just so everything is clean the number you provide (####K) is the color/temperature and not the brightness. We have chosen to use daylight in the kitchen and bathrooms and warm white (the 2700k) in the bedrooms and living spaces; lumens in the number that will indicate brightness.
When buying LEDS bulbs do not rely strictly on the wattage equivalent written on the package, I've picked up two different brands of 60w equivalents and one was 660 lumens and the other was 800 lumens, of course there was a similar increase in power consumption between the two.