Fence materials list and advice please

[Sibley]

Apparently I get to build a fence. Not happy about this, but ok. Please help with my shopping list and advise my methodology? I'm basically piecemealing instructions from various sources online.

It's a short section between parent's house and the garage, about 10 feet. Most of it is over concrete, and its brand new concrete so we don't want to mess it up. Metal posts, wood panel and gate. One post will be going into dirt. It'll be me and dad. If necessary, I can probably get a friend to provide muscle.

Already have:
--wood gate
--wood fence panel
--metal fence posts

Shopping list:
--The thingies you use to attach metal posts to concrete. Like this, though not sure if its the right size: https://chainlinkfittings.com/store/2-1-2-standard-floor-flange-w-2-set-screws.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbTfss4F0HMq-1ZcOcFCRrXIzage6qWi4jb1yrDFclItvbZj-2xrguhoCrzEQAvD_BwE
--Some sort of concrete/cement mix for the post that is going into dirt.
--concrete anchors and bolts (like this method: https://www.hunker.com/12283176/how-to-attach-metal-to-concrete-without-screws-or-glue)
--gate hardware
--pieces to attach panel to posts
--caps for the top of the posts

Methodology:
1. figure out where the fence is going. Mark it with chalk line.
2. Dig post hole in the dirt section, stick post in, mix up the concrete and put it in, let dry.
3. Mark locations of other posts.
4. Use the boot thing to attach posts to concrete, using concrete anchor and bolt
5. hang gate off post (https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/42406/how-do-you-attach-a-wooden-gate-to-fence-with-metal-posts)
6. Attach panel to posts (https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/bd/bd136ca3-7261-4f24-97d7-2c0ff5d2ab78.pdf)
7. trim tops of posts so they're even, put metal cap on.

Tools:
I need a hammer drill for the concrete anchors.
Screwdrivers/rachets/etc for all the little pieces
Regular drill? Hammer?
Shovel
Saw to cut fence panels to length

[SunnyDays]

I don’t know about your climate, but here, way north of you, crushed limestone is used instead of concrete.  Freeze/thaw cycles will eventually heave the post set in concrete out of alignment.

[Sibley]

I don’t know about your climate, but here, way north of you, crushed limestone is used instead of concrete.  Freeze/thaw cycles will eventually heave the post set in concrete out of alignment.

TIL. Cool. I do know that concrete is used in my area. Not sure why freeze/thaw isn't a concern though.

[WSUCoug1994]

We recently did a long run of fence on top of concrete and I can't imagine doing it without a hammer drill and concrete bit.  Turned that concrete into butter.  You could easily rent one if you don't want to purchase one but since buying ours I have used it multiple times - mine (Dewalt DCD996B) also doubles as a regular drill. Depending on the type of concrete anchors you are using (we used Confast and they have some great YouTube videos) it makes a difference.  Make sure you look at their chart to make sure you are using the right diameter for your application and you get your depth right for the holes.  We simply used tape on the bit to make sure our holes were consistent.  You also need to be careful about how close you can get to the edge of the concrete with concrete anchors - ours gave us a minimum distance but it is important so you don't crack the concrete.  Ear protection during drilling isn't a bad idea either - my hammer drill is LOUD.

Also, they aren't kidding that you need to clean the holes out after drilling or the concrete anchors wont be stable.  We used a compressor and found that to be much better that the shop-vac.  The air compressor did a much better job of loosening and getting rid of any material in the hole.

The anchors we used - they worked really well - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FFRG9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Fire2025]

We aren't in a cold climate, but we did crushed stone for posts and have been very happy.

I also second the hammer drill and concrete drill bit.

For renting tools, check out your local library.  More and more libraries are doing tool checkout.

[Sibley]

My library doesn't have tool rental. However, I can borrow tools from friends or neighbors or there's a tool rental place less than a mile from me. Will also borrow a compressor. TY for the anchor recommendation, will add to the shopping list.

And yes, hearing protection will be used.

[WSUCoug1994]

This probably goes without saying but you have to hammer these concrete anchors pretty hard to get them fully seated in the holes (you will hear a distinct different sound once they are fully seated).  Make sure you place the nut on the bolt at the top of the anchor to make sure that you don't damage the threads.  Maybe a 1/8" of the nut should be above the threads - if it is more than that you will also damage the threads.  This is important because if you get the anchor partially in the hole and you damage the threads you are screwed because there is no way to get that anchor out of the concrete if you damage the threads and then it becomes totally useless.

[uniwelder]

10 feet is a pretty short span, especially if it’s not all over concrete. If one post is going in dirt, how far is the remaining portion over concrete?

edited to add--- I"m also assuming the two posts at the ends can be attached to the house and garage, so you might be able to avoid drilling into the concrete altogether.

[Sibley]

The posts are going to be pretty close together, probably overkill but oh well. Gate is 4 ft wide, then posts at the ends by the house and garage to attach the end of the panels too. The house is brick, and we don't want to drill into it. Garage needs some repairs (next year project), so I don't want to attach to it and then have to mess with the fence later.

I was able to go see my friend who was going to build the fence before he got hurt. He recommended we switch from metal posts to wood posts, he's not sure that a metal post can actually handle the weight of the gate. Dad massively overbuilt the gate, it'll probably last for 30 years at least. I was able to borrow a hammer drill and one of the long skinny shovels though, which helps. We will be renting a post hole digger, as my friend's is MIA. And his compressor is down, so will try my shopvac.

Making my shopping list tonight. Will report with progress tomorrow.

[uniwelder]

If using a shop vac, stick a straw into the drilled hole and hold the end of the vacuum over it to suck out dust from the bottom.

[Ladychips]

Good luck!!!!

[Sibley]

I don’t know about your climate, but here, way north of you, crushed limestone is used instead of concrete.  Freeze/thaw cycles will eventually heave the post set in concrete out of alignment.

TIL. Cool. I do know that concrete is used in my area. Not sure why freeze/thaw isn't a concern though.

Freeze/thaw is a concern. I have to dig the post hole MUCH deeper than I thought. 40 inches or so.

[vand]

Go with concrete gravel boards and posts for anything that will be touching earth. Will last a lifetime, and very easy to change out the fence panels when req.

[uniwelder]

I don’t know about your climate, but here, way north of you, crushed limestone is used instead of concrete.  Freeze/thaw cycles will eventually heave the post set in concrete out of alignment.

TIL. Cool. I do know that concrete is used in my area. Not sure why freeze/thaw isn't a concern though.

Freeze/thaw is a concern. I have to dig the post hole MUCH deeper than I thought. 40 inches or so.

I'm not sure you really need to get below the freeze depth, if thats what 40 inches is at your house.  My understanding was that as long as the hole flares out at the bottom, the frozen soil above will prevent the post from lifting.  Unless you want to dig a really wide opening, 24-30 inches is about as deep as I usually get with a post hole digger because you need a hole bigger than 8" at the top to even get the handles to spread and pull out dirt once you get past that 24-30" depth.  Bottom of the hole should be 12" diameter if its 8" at the top, and keep the top clean/compact so you don't have spillover concrete that will act as a lift in freezing weather.

[Sibley]

Well, status report.

We rented both a clam digger and a powered corkscrew machine. The corkscrew machine was of limited help for the first 2 feet due to the large number of massive concrete chunks that were just thrown there. Those got dug out, one at a time and set to the side, then shovel out more dirt until we hit the next concrete chunk. It took quite a while. Finally got past that and the chorkscrew was very helpful to dig the post holes. Then used the clam shell to finish digging the holes for the 2 posts/cleaning up. Got the 2 posts in place and adjusted, then put in 4 bags of the concrete mix. Let that sit for a few hours, backfilled and cleaned up.

Next phase is to hang the gate, get the posts attached to the concrete, and then attach the panels. I'd like to work on it tomorrow but the weather report is calling for rain from 7am to dark, so it'll probably be next weekend.

[Sibley]

Oh. And I am never building a fence again. I will pay people to do this. Not worth the pain.

[Ladychips]

I'm so impressed with you!

[Sibley]

2nd update. The posts are all up and the gate is up. Just have to attach the panels, and we're going to add blocking between the 2 posts by the house for extra support. We got cold and tired, and had to hand out candy so just called it quits today. (It rained yesterday/I was down with covid vaccine side effects when it cleared, so today it was.)

Progress pic attached if I can get it to work.

[Sibley]

For scale, the gate is 6ft tall, 4ft wide.

[Sibley]

Update: the fence is done. Dad decided to take part the preassembled panels and attach them one by one. Which is fine with me, I didn't have to help. And it got him active which he needs. It will need to be stained next year but that shouldn't be a big deal since it's so small. And I have the supplies already, would just need stain.

[Ladychips]

Way to go!! That's a project to be proud of!