I learned how and did my own - here's my write up from an earlier post. Let me know if you have any questions.
We wanted a metal roof, but I found it hard to find metal roofers here in Houston willing to do such a small job. Those I did find, quoted me $300, $380, $500 and up per square. So, I learned how to do it myself, used better materials than the roofers had quoted, and saved a bunch.
I can get unwrapped 30 yr shingles for $51 a square, add about $7 more for tar paper and nails. Let's call the tear off and disposal $10 a square. Another dollar or two for penetrations and edge. Let's say $75 a square before labor is the best I could hope to do. If you don't have a salvage shingle place, plan on $100 a square.
An uninsured roofer will do the job with 25 yr shingles for $130 a square or 30 yr for $155 a sq
I bought my 26 guage galvalume R panel roofing for $1.20 a linear foot. The screws cost me $20 a bag of 250, and stitch screws were $25. I went with expensive underpayment that resembles plastic tarp material mated to tyvec - that was $80 or so a roll that covers about 8 squares. I used 1x4 cedar runners to screw to, every 3 feet (horizontal) that costs about a buck each, combined with a huge box of screws $40. The roof/ridge cap was $3 a foot and valley if you need it is $5 a foot
Here's how I did it - this is an allowed (and recommended by city inspector ) in my area - it may not work as well in colder climates
First, I removed the outer 8 inches of shingles all the way around my house, then I rolled out GAF felt buster underpayment and tacked it down with cap nails. Then I layed a course of 1x6 cedar fence pickets all the way around the perimeter of the house. These are screwed down every 8-10 inches. Drip edge goes over this.
Next, using 1x4 pickets, and 3 foot long spacer boards (important) to keep parallel I progressed all the way around the house. These are also screwed down with many 2 inch screws - through the cedar, shingle, into the wood... This took a day, mostly by myself. Note that I did not have to remove all the shingles! Then it's as simple as waiting for a day with almost NO wind and screwing down the panels. Panels get screwed down in 6 places at each runner. Make yourself a template so you can keep the screws in straight lines. It really looks a lot better if you keep everything in tight lines. Panels are laid out in a specific way, and must be perfectly perpendicular - otherwise you will get further and further off. Start with 1 or 2 screws at the the panel, and lay out a few to check for square. If your first 3 panels don't take an hour, you are incredibly lucky. Once you have a side square, the panels go incredibly fast.
Cutting for me was easiest flipping the panel over, marking with a sharpee and cutting with an angle grinder. I tried circular saw blades and other things, but grinder worked best for me. Many of your cuts will be under the roof cap anyway. There will be lots of waste - the pros seem to be able to flip longer panels over, and use for opposite corners - but we aren't looking to become pros here, just save some dough, right? I found it easiest to do most cutting on the ground on sawhorses. These panels have a lip that overlaps the previous panel, so there is only one correct bottom on any given piece. Even though you measure twice, visualize things, and try to be careful, you will cut the wrong corner off a few times - these pieces ended up leaning against what I called the wall of shame, and were used as shorter pieces when I got to where I needed them.
Moving along, on each line where you have your fasteners, you will use stitch screws to connect each panel to the next one. Then a roof cap is stitch screwed to each of the raised parts of panels it overlaps.
Any penetrations require special boots - I found a few standard sizes at a steel shop, but Amazon prime was my friend here - cheaper, and they actually had everything I needed 2 days later. The boots get a lot of stitch screws all the way around.
I spent about $4500 for everything I needed to do our bungalow and garage apartment. About 30 squares, but remember there is more waste. Have a trailer handy if you have a hip roof, because you will end up with 100 3 foot triangles of metal. If it were a pro doing it, there might be savings of $500 or so on the materials with the lower amount of waste he would have created. On simple roofs, you could have almost no cutting or waste as many of the rolling mills can cut to order size.
Buy a few extras for fuck ups. I sold my extras on Craigslist for $1 a ft, and they were out of my yard an hour after posting
If you measure everything, Mueller will make a diagram for you for free...then you can shop around and discover that they are not the best price. (My materials were over 11k there, and that leaves out wood, penetrations and a few other things. but that little map was very very helpful)
So - about $150 a square done my way, not including labor.
The 5/8 thick space between the old roof and the new roof provides some insulation. Our electric has been lower, but I'm unsure by exactly how much.
P.s. Gloves - every time you touch the edge of the metal, wear them. I can't stress this enough.
Safety Glasses - always a good idea
Slightest threat of moisture - get down, or you'll slide off
I may have bored or lost yall, but I'd be happy to try and answer any questions you might have.
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