Largely the same, just more cramped because of the (typically) transverse mounting and you will have to remove CV half-shafts rather than the single driveshaft which IME comes out much easier.
I always change the rear main seal and any other oil seals for intermediate shafts that are only accessible where the transaxle is removed. I also replace the entire assembly (pressure plate and clutch disc at a minimum) and if there's evidence of heat scoring, discoloration, or grooves, I send the flywheel out to a machine shop.
Everything else will probably look very familiar to you. You will need air tools or a way to lock the engine to take the bolts off. You will probably need red loctite to put things back together.
I'm a die-hard DIYer, but I'd make a couple phone calls to local independent mechanics and see what they'd charge for a clutch job. In the same way that most brake service is wildly over-priced, I think most clutch replacements are under-priced for the effort and aggravation involved. Plus, you pretty much know that they'll get it done in one day. Armed with those bids, you can decide whether to farm it out or not and if you do tackle it, you'll know exactly how much you're saving when you bust your knuckle trying to get the flywheel off.