Camry 93 broken rear window regulator

[jeromedawg]

Hey guys,

While driving around, the rear window suddenly slipped and slid down... I actually had this repaired a couple years ago but now I'm wondering what they actually replaced. Since replacing my whole front driver's side door myself last year, I had enough confidence to take the panel off the rear door to see what was going on. At first glance, I noticed that the cable was off one of the wheels on the metal track. I managed to remove the track and take a closer look and the slider that the glass is bolted to  has several plastic tabs that broke off - some of those tabs appear to have held the cable in place as well (and maybe held some of the tension). I'm not sure if I can get the cable around the wheel again - the motor seems fine though. Is it possible to replace only the metal track and slider? I'm wondering if they only replaced the regulator motor and cable itself (as opposed to the entire assembly which normally includes the track and slider). I'm contemplating just buying another regulator assembly for $43 on Amazon and popping it in myself. I paid my mechanic $200 a couple years ago to do it too! I'm thinking if I take it back he'll probably shrug his shoulders and be like "sorry the track/slider was old - we only replaced the motor..." :T

[JLee]

If the whole thing is 43 bucks, I'd just replace it all. I've replaced a couple - they're not too difficult.

[jeromedawg]

If the whole thing is 43 bucks, I'd just replace it all. I've replaced a couple - they're not too difficult.

I'm starting to think my mechanic skimped and only replaced the motor but left the original regulator there - hard to believe that the plastic tabs could have broken that quickly on the regulator. Breaking after 20~ years makes more sense. The motor looks pretty new. I checked on ebay and they're even cheaper. It's weird because I see one for $25 that's just the regulator but there are also regulators w/ motor for $34. Wondering if I should just get the entire assembly or save myself $10~ and get the regulator only

EDIT: actually, I looked at the motor assembly and you have to crack it open to remove the main wheel holding the tension cable. I think that would be a real PITA, so probably replacing the entire unit (motor and regulator) would be the way to go.

[jeromedawg]

Got one on Ebay for $34.36 (lowest price I could find). I remembered I had $15 worth of Ebay GCs as well that I bought from Newegg and got $15 credited back since I used Visa Checkout for that, so pretty much $15 free :)

Shouldn't be too hard putting back in. Stupid me cracked the power window switch trim though (actually, I think the mechanic broke it when he originally replaced the motor cause I saw that it was super glued previously). I'm getting tired of working on this car....

[The Beacon]

Cheap parts normally do not last long, especially those off brand ones from Ebay.  I had my CRV's driver side assembly replaced 2 years ago and I insisted on OME.  The whole assembly was 250 and labor was 250.  So far so good... I would replace it myself if it breaks again.  I normally use OEM if it involves a motor such as this one, water pumper, alternator or compressor. I am fine with 3rd party things like calipers, rotors, pads, radiator and belts.  However, they also have to be from an known manufacturer.

At the end of the day, you always get what you pay for.

[JLee]

Cheap parts normally do not last long, especially those off brand ones from Ebay.  I had my CRV's driver side assembly replaced 2 years ago and I insisted on OME.  The whole assembly was 250 and labor was 250.  So far so good... I would replace it myself if it breaks again.  I normally use OEM if it involves a motor such as this one, water pumper, alternator or compressor. I am fine with 3rd party things like calipers, rotors, pads, radiator and belts.  However, they also have to be from an known manufacturer.

At the end of the day, you always get what you pay for.

GM OEM window regulators don't have a great reputation - I replaced both rear window regulators in my old car ('04). I used inexpensive aftermarket ones and they lasted as long as I had the car.

Sometimes there are far cheaper options than OEM at effectively the same quality -- e.g. Toyota uses Aisin parts.  An OEM water pump for my MR2 is $160 retail ($125 with online discount), but an Aisin part (which is the same thing with "Toyota" ground off of the casting) is $37.79. :)

That said, when I do the timing belt on my truck that's going to be used for long-distance offroading, it'll be with OEM parts...I don't want to risk any critical engine failures 300 miles from anywhere. :P

[lthenderson]

A lot of people don't think of this but a good source of cheap OEM parts for your car is your local junkyard. The one I frequent allows me to go remove the part I need (which helps with the installation later) and I just pay them a small fee. For more expensive stuff, they generally will remove it and have it sitting on the counter when I arrive.

[jeromedawg]

A lot of people don't think of this but a good source of cheap OEM parts for your car is your local junkyard. The one I frequent allows me to go remove the part I need (which helps with the installation later) and I just pay them a small fee. For more expensive stuff, they generally will remove it and have it sitting on the counter when I arrive.

Yea I was thinking about that as I went to a pick your part last time to get a door and fender and had to pull everything myself. I'd probably feel more comfortable going back but the thing is I don't want to - it's not that close to me and the last time I went I came back filthy. To me, it's not worth the drive or trouble of taking more stuff apart just to get this one part.

Anyway, hopefully the one I ordered off Ebay won't break so quickly. Not sure how much longer I'll have this car and I don't anticipate driving it around that much anyway these days, since I've just started a telecommute job.

[Roboturner]

We just did this for a 99 accord, the regulator and motor were one package, super easy DIY job, cost $44, were quoted $350 at autobody shop

[jeromedawg]

The part came earlier than expected yesterday so I put it in after getting off work. It was really easy. Can't believe I paid $200 to get this installed several years ago :T Only thing is that I broke the trim around the power switch even more (the plastic is really brittle so even the slightest force will cause a piece to break off. It's in *OK* shape so I just shoved it back into the armrest and it seems like it's ok.

The bummer: I just noticed the rear-right window is starting to exhibit signs of wear (when rolling it down the window slightly 'skips'). I will possibly have to perform the same procedure on that side as well. I noticed the power lock on that side is jacked up too, so not sure if there is an easy way to fix that if I ever have to replace the motor/regulator on that side.

[Gevans17]

can probably find a "how to" video on Youtube if needed.

[zolotiyeruki]

The bummer: I just noticed the rear-right window is starting to exhibit signs of wear (when rolling it down the window slightly 'skips'). I will possibly have to perform the same procedure on that side as well. I noticed the power lock on that side is jacked up too, so not sure if there is an easy way to fix that if I ever have to replace the motor/regulator on that side.

It might just need some lubrication.  My '95 corolla's windows were noisy and slow, so I went in with a tube of grease and lubed up all the sliding/rotating parts.  Made a big difference.

[Gevans17]

For those of you that don't want to do this job yourself, i've found that auto glass shops will often do it for considerably less than the dealer.

[mxt0133]

+ a million for youtube.  My front passenger side window feel into the door while we were on vacation.  It was 9pm at night and had just started to snow, heavily.  So i'm like ohh crap, even if I did tape up the window, how do I drive 4 hours on the high way without a window and three kids in the back.  First instinct was to go to a auto repair shop the following day, but that was going to set me back at least a hundred or two.  So went on Youtube, watched how to remove the interior door panel, took me 5 minutes literally, and then watched another on how to put a window back on the track.  I tried to fix it but I didn't have enough time or lighting so I decided to just keep it up and duct tape the window up just in case it slides off the tract again.

After driving home and spending a few days on youtube on how to fix it, turns out I just needed to glue the window on the track harness.  Apparently they forgot to put the glue when they made the car as I compared it to the driver side window.  So after a total of $15 for the automotive glue and two or three hours total on youtube and taking out the inside door panel it's as good as new.  The quote from the dealer was $150 just for the labor to look at it plus any parts and additional labor to fix.

Next up change rear break pads, which is $350 for parts and labor.  The pads are about $50-70 shipped.  All I need is to find someone with jack stands and a few hours FTW!

[HipGnosis]

The bummer: I just noticed the rear-right window is starting to exhibit signs of wear (when rolling it down the window slightly 'skips'). I will possibly have to perform the same procedure on that side as well. I noticed the power lock on that side is jacked up too, so not sure if there is an easy way to fix that if I ever have to replace the motor/regulator on that side.

It might just need some lubrication.  My '95 corolla's windows were noisy and slow, so I went in with a tube of grease and lubed up all the sliding/rotating parts.  Made a big difference.

It also helps to Armor-All (et al) the weatherstripping in the door that the window slides in/through.

[JLee]

+ a million for youtube.  My front passenger side window feel into the door while we were on vacation.  It was 9pm at night and had just started to snow, heavily.  So i'm like ohh crap, even if I did tape up the window, how do I drive 4 hours on the high way without a window and three kids in the back.  First instinct was to go to a auto repair shop the following day, but that was going to set me back at least a hundred or two.  So went on Youtube, watched how to remove the interior door panel, took me 5 minutes literally, and then watched another on how to put a window back on the track.  I tried to fix it but I didn't have enough time or lighting so I decided to just keep it up and duct tape the window up just in case it slides off the tract again.

After driving home and spending a few days on youtube on how to fix it, turns out I just needed to glue the window on the track harness.  Apparently they forgot to put the glue when they made the car as I compared it to the driver side window.  So after a total of $15 for the automotive glue and two or three hours total on youtube and taking out the inside door panel it's as good as new.  The quote from the dealer was $150 just for the labor to look at it plus any parts and additional labor to fix.

Next up change rear break pads, which is $350 for parts and labor.  The pads are about $50-70 shipped.  All I need is to find someone with jack stands and a few hours FTW!

Did you price pads from RockAuto?  $50-70 seems to be on the high side.

[mxt0133]

@JLee - I did not but I did see some for $30-$40 range.  I didn't want to get greedy and go cheap on the break pads.  Would you say they are the same quality? 

Come to think of it, because I drive about 5K miles a year, they shouldn't make too much of a difference.

[JLee]

@JLee - I did not but I did see some for $30-$40 range.  I didn't want to get greedy and go cheap on the break pads.  Would you say they are the same quality? 

Come to think of it, because I drive about 5K miles a year, they shouldn't make too much of a difference.

What's the year/make/model/engine on the car?

[mxt0133]

2009 Toyota Venza V6 3.5L

[JLee]

2009 Toyota Venza V6 3.5L

I would buy this:
CENTRIC 10514020 Posi-Quiet Ceramic w/Shims and Hardware $24.99

You can find 5% discount codes for RockAuto as well (google search 'rockauto code'), which will bring you to $23.74 + shipping. :)

[mxt0133]

@ JLee - Thanks for the tip!