Basement windows- how to replace

[MrSal]

Doing a lot of projects this fall ... I am now in need of replacing basement windows ...

Got them for cheap at Lowes stacking a bunch of coupons and discounts... ended up having them at 20 USD each instead of the 49 USD they have it priced at...

Now comes the question of... how the hell to replace them? My house is cinderblock basement... has old iron or something alike old windows in the basement.

How should i put the new window in? patch it with concrete around? or should I so a wood frame for the window to go around the cavity?

[Jack]

The (old) windows in my concrete block basement appear to have frames made from 2xN lumber (where N matches the wall thickness), so I assume that's a reasonable way to do it. You should probably use pressure-treated lumber.

[MrSal]

my old windows dont think have the wood in them but i have to get closer and look they seem to be directly attached which no idea how...

[GuitarStv]

Be careful.  The windows in our basement have frames that are used as structural supports, we couldn't just replace them with regular windows.

[MrSal]

Be careful.  The windows in our basement have frames that are used as structural supports, we couldn't just replace them with regular windows.

thanks althugh i doubt it... these are just the normal 32 inch by 14 ... right above them is the sill plate

[Fishindude]

Old basement windows in concrete block walls were commonly steel sash (frames) with single pane glazing.   Some of them fit right into a pre-formed slot in the jambs of the blocks so they will be a bit challenging to remove.   First bust the glass out, then get a steel cutting wheel or abrasive grinder of some type to cut through the steel window sashes so you can pull them out in small pieces without damaging the block.

If new window is built to fit the opening, just shim to fit and align, anchor the frame in place with Tapcon masonry anchors and caulk perimeter inside and out.

[MrSal]

Well just got done with the windows...

Indeed the windows were inserted as if in a slot in the blocks of concrete... Both the sides and bottom had some sort of channels were the lip of the windows would insert.

My vinil windows also came with that lip however I cut it down to just the windows frame since it was impossible to insert the windows in the slot without having the house lifted.

Having a wood frame around was not possible either since the gap was 3/4 inch total... So 1/4" each side thickness.

I decided to just anchor to the sil plate... Ran a double bead of silicone caulk on the face of the frame to go against the wood. Attached with screws. From outside I shimmed the window and then filled the side gaps with foam...

They look kick ass





Just need to cut the foam now and caulk the edges

[Manguy888]

Thanks for sharing this - I've been wanting to replace the windows in my basement but haven't had the guts to pull one out to see how it was attached. My basement looks exactly like yours (it's like you broke into my house) so I will probably have to do the same sill-plate-only attachment.

What type of window did you buy that had that bottom lip you had to cut off? Any unique name to that type of window that would help me when I go to buy them?

[Fishindude]

Assume you are going to trim off those nasty globs of expandable foam and caulk the inside perimeter?

[MrSal]

Assume you are going to trim off those nasty globs of expandable foam and caulk the inside perimeter?

Of course. And caulk the edges.

Thanks for sharing this - I've been wanting to replace the windows in my basement but haven't had the guts to pull one out to see how it was attached. My basement looks exactly like yours (it's like you broke into my house) so I will probably have to do the same sill-plate-only attachment.

What type of window did you buy that had that bottom lip you had to cut off? Any unique name to that type of window that would help me when I go to buy them?

The window is sold at lowes. I kept the bottom lip though because since I didn't use a wood frame and the concrete at the bottom is a little beveled... The lip actually sit nicely there... And it's kinda acting like a flashing. Just poured a good been off silicone and pressed it against the bevel.

[paddedhat]

Just wanted to add that this is a good place for MINIMAL expansion, window and door foam. I have wasted mucho time, with a hacksaw blade, relieving the pressure on windows and door frames that were bowed shut, by sawing foam out of the gap. This was a result of somebody shooting the gaps full of regular foam, not window and door foam. Standard spray foam ( Like Great Stuff)  can bow wooden door and window frames, and will really do a job of twisting vinyl window frames. Nice job on the windows. Steel frames built in to the wall, as the block is being laid, as you discovered, are pretty damn permanent.

[MrSal]

correct.

Use window foam ... this one does not warp at all. Also wear gloves! This thing is super sticky ... even rinsing with water, acetone, alcohol or paint thiner did very little... if you can use a rag and it will go to the trash afterwards...

Here are the windows after i caulked with 100% silicone - which is also super sticky! I advise to use painters tape in order to have a clean edge... and even then its hard at times.







More sealed that this is impossible :D