how many layers of paint is too much on doors?

[steadierfooting]

Our house is 70 years old, and the doors are just as old.  2 of them won't close, I believe due to the layers and layers and layers of paint. 6 of them close fine, but you can tell there's a lot of paint on them.  I was planning on updating the hardware and giving it another paint job, but I'm wondering at what point (if ever) some other solution is needed, like stripping the paint, or even just replacing the doors altogether.

We recently remodeled a bathroom / laundry room and dumped the cheap hallow practically cardboard doors for the same style upstairs, and obviously when you compare them the details of the panes get lost on the goopy paint...  Something only I would notice of course.

We will be in this house for hopefully the next 30 or 40 years, so what should our long term plan be with these doors?  I can sand and plane somewhat to get more space to get them to close properly, but I'd have to imagine that right now there's 7-10 layers of paint.  I figure short term just sand and plane and paint to get them to close properly and look ok, but will I eventually have to get new doors?

[Primm]

We're in pretty much the same boat, and my plan is to take the doors off one at a time and strip them back. I still want the painted effect, but like you the mouldings on the doors and pretty unimpressive due to 100 years of paint (not really sure how many layers yet).

[Self-employed-swami]

I'd recommend stripping them back down, then painting again.  Those old wooden doors are likely a much better quality than anything we normally get now.

There is a chemical stripper that my husband uses, and it's smelly, carcinogenic and toxic, but it bubbles everything right off old furniture.  I can't recall what it is called though, but any good woodworking store would be able to recommend something to you.

[usmarine1975]

Taking off the layers of paint around the moldings is going to be the tricky part.  Unless the heat gun takes them off. I would probably try to strip the paint and start fresh. Do one door at a time.

[Rural]

If they're the age of the house, be aware as you're stripping, because some of the layers are likely lead based paint.

[steadierfooting]

I was going to consider stripping but wasnt sure if the costs for all the chemicals would make it cost effective.  Maybe a good balance with stripping is to do one door every couple of years to not make it a huge project and that will take care of itself over time.  id have to imagine to get down to the wood would take so much effort and stripping solvents.

[Self-employed-swami]

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/strip-multiple-layers-paint-off-wood-doors-29957.html

[justajane]

My gut reaction would be to strip old doors but replace old, intricate molding. We have both in our house, and the molding has layers upon layers of paint on them, many of which are poorly applied. I know some people take them off and go to a place that will strip them for you and put them back on. But I would be tempted to find a place that specializes in old mill work. We had some made for our addition that matches the rest of the house exactly.   

I know this is a DIY forum, but it wouldn't hurt to call them these dip and strip places and ask if they would do a door as well. By the time you factor in your exposure to potentially noxious chemicals to get all that off, it might be sensible. You are in a better position if you just plan to re-paint again, since the removal doesn't have to be as perfect as it would need to be if you are going to stain.

We had an addition put on the back of our house and the contractors bought these awesome solid wood paneled doors. I have no idea where they bought them, but they are solid doors. So good quality is still being made, but in that case, I imagine you would have to deal with all the challenges that come with installing a new door in an old house. Once you factor that in, stripping might be your best course.

[mpbaker22]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

[steadierfooting]

So I spent the day experimenting.  Heat gun was by FAR the winner.  The chemicals (Kleen Strip) were terribly strong, and I felt like I had to use so much of it (maybe a quart) and multiple passes.  Progress had been made, but after 6 hours, there was no end in sight.  The heat gun passed through the the layers like butter, there were no noxious odors either.

Based on todays experiences, I think the chemicals would work best on a 1-layer wood, like maybe a table where you want to remove the varnish and stain.  For 8 layers of paint, skimming it with a heat gun works best.  I'm a bit nervous about the disclaimers about using a heat gun on the door jambs or places where you can't disassemble, but I work from home and if I need to use it on the jambs and trim I can just make sure I'll be home, and not cut and run after using it...

[oldtoyota]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

You tired it on a window sill? Ignorant Question Alert: Can I really use a heat gun on the exterior paint around my windows? If yes, this could be the solution I've been needing!

[Greg]

Usually when a door won't close because of too much paint, the "too much paint" is only on the edges of the door and/or on the jamb.  Be selective.  Try taking one of the offending doors off the hinges (remove hinge pin) and scrape/sand just the edges (top and latch edge usually) to see if that's all that's needed.

[mpbaker22]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

You tired it on a window sill? Ignorant Question Alert: Can I really use a heat gun on the exterior paint around my windows? If yes, this could be the solution I've been needing!

I tried the chemical stripper on a window sill, and it was just taking way too long and would have been way too expensive.   I haven't tried a heat gun on exterior paint, but it seems that it should work.  Heat guns (at least the one I bought) come with attachments that can siphon the heat away from glass.

[oldtoyota]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

You tired it on a window sill? Ignorant Question Alert: Can I really use a heat gun on the exterior paint around my windows? If yes, this could be the solution I've been needing!

I tried the chemical stripper on a window sill, and it was just taking way too long and would have been way too expensive.   I haven't tried a heat gun on exterior paint, but it seems that it should work.  Heat guns (at least the one I bought) come with attachments that can siphon the heat away from glass.

Good to know about the attachments. Thanks! Hope to get that project done if it ever cools down. It's 95 degrees F around here and miserable for outdoor work like this. I am a bit worried that we'll go from 90s straight to 30s or something. Weather in DC is weird.

[mpbaker22]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

You tired it on a window sill? Ignorant Question Alert: Can I really use a heat gun on the exterior paint around my windows? If yes, this could be the solution I've been needing!

I tried the chemical stripper on a window sill, and it was just taking way too long and would have been way too expensive.   I haven't tried a heat gun on exterior paint, but it seems that it should work.  Heat guns (at least the one I bought) come with attachments that can siphon the heat away from glass.

Good to know about the attachments. Thanks! Hope to get that project done if it ever cools down. It's 95 degrees F around here and miserable for outdoor work like this. I am a bit worried that we'll go from 90s straight to 30s or something. Weather in DC is weird.

I stopped working on the second story of my house a few weeks ago when it got to 103 outside.  I just had to work outside where it was cooler.  Stop being weak!  ;)

BTW, you might like this blog - http://thisoldcrackhouse.blogspot.com/

[Jack]

When using a heat gun, couldn't you just cover whatever you don't want to heat up with something reflective (like aluminum foil)?

[Sibley]

HEAT GUN.  Get a Heat GUN!  I tried a window sill with chemicals, and it took forever.  I did a heat gun on a door I found in an alley (long story) and it works pretty well.  It's probably the most cost effective, though I don't truly know the electricity cost.

The only thing is safety first.  Make sure you wear gloves.  Make sure you are wearing a dust mask if not something more heavy duty.  The wood likely has lead paint, and even if it doesn't you are putting paint chemicals in the air, so get a mask on! 

Last thing - since they are doors, take them off and do this outside.  The air flow will be better too.

You tired it on a window sill? Ignorant Question Alert: Can I really use a heat gun on the exterior paint around my windows? If yes, this could be the solution I've been needing!

Old Toyota - yes, you can use a heat gun on exterior (wood) windows, not sure about other materials. Use common sense since you're applying high heat. The heat gun will soften old caulking, but it's still a pain to remove. I'd make sure you're comfortable with the process while on solid ground before moving to a ladder.

[Sibley]

When using a heat gun, couldn't you just cover whatever you don't want to heat up with something reflective (like aluminum foil)?

Jack - not that I'm aware. You can try to deflect it, but everything in the area tends to warm up. On the other hand, I've heat gunned many windows and doors with glass, and never broken it from the heat gun. (Falling into it, yes!)

Also, the biggest worry about lead paint is breathing in the dust. Heat gun doesn't create dust, just chips which you can sweep up. Don't use a sander on lead paint because you'll just make a lead dust mess everywhere. You're going to end up filthy and gross anyway doing anything like this, so you'll want a shower and clean clothing which will take care of the rest. Otherwise, keep vulnerable individuals away. Not a doctor, but my guess is that a little bit of expose not repeated long-term won't cause a huge problem for healthy adults (pregnant women should stay away).

[Self-employed-swami]

There is a chemical stripper that my husband uses, and it's smelly, carcinogenic and toxic, but it bubbles everything right off old furniture.  I can't recall what it is called though, but any good woodworking store would be able to recommend something to you.

I forgot that I meant to ask my husband about the stripper, but it's called Circa 1850.

https://themanofmanyhobbies.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/circa-1850-furniture-stripper-62698_image.jpg

[NathanP]

Before attempting to strip paint consider making adjustments to the door hinges.

My house is 40 years old and I just completed the replacement of the door knob hardware and door hinges for all 28 doors. This was done to get rid of the 5 different styles of brass knobs that were in use around the house. Before doing this work, several of the doors would not close properly, would be difficult to close (must push inward and downward) or would scrape the door frame. After completing the replacement of the door hinges several of the trouble doors "fixed" themselves, while several doors that used to open/close properly would not.

Typically the problem was that I had over-tightened the hinge screws. Just as the door was nearly closed, it would resist closing and I could see one or more of the hinges flexing (bending away from the door frame). The simple solution was to loosen the screws that went into the door frame by 1/4 or 1/2 a turn. This allowed the hinge to rotate slightly and the door could close properly.

Another problem was that some doors would scrape the upper portion of the door frame. This could be easily fixed by loosening the screws in the topmost hinge causing the door to lower.

I think that with a bit of patience one can fix most any door that is having trouble closing without the need to remove paint.