The Money Mustache Community
Learning, Sharing, and Teaching => Do it Yourself Discussion! => Topic started by: Enough on January 03, 2017, 02:14:04 PM
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The goal: Full bath renovation in 30 days (while working full time, ~45-50 hrs/wk).
Scope:
75% tear-out to studs.
Carpentry / Misc:
Door will open to the right vs left.
Built-in shower shelf
20" medicine cabinet box
Plumbing:
Toilet and vanity will be moved to left wall to have a larger vanity.
Tub will be left drain vs right drain.
New PVC vents/drains and pex supply vs cast iron and galvanized.
Tile:
Tiled shower surround
tile floor
Electrical:
3 new outlets
2 vanity lights
Center ceiling light with fan
Other:
Will update as it goes along
Schedule as follows:
(http://i.imgur.com/L4PB4yxl.jpg)
I'll be happy if I get it done by January 31st. But the goal is to keep to or ahead of this schedule.
Thursdays are no-work days due to other obligations.
Current Status:
(http://i.imgur.com/KFB4ZmWl.png)
Less tub and some tile (started on demo yesterday).
I will post back daily (if I can) as a motivator to work on it every day
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posting to follow.
If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating? Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet. 'Course I live in a cold climate...
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posting to follow.
If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating? Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet. 'Course I live in a cold climate...
I have definitely thought about sub-floor heat, but I need to read up on how to install it! Thanks for the reminder.
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Posting to follow. We are planning to redo the 1st floor bedroom/bath and turn it into a master suite. I want to DIY it all.
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posting to follow.
If you're already re-tiling the floor, why not put in sub-floor heating? Not particularly hard if you're going to retile anyway. IMO the best bathroom luxury ever... everything dries quickly and no more cold feet. 'Course I live in a cold climate...
I have definitely thought about sub-floor heat, but I need to read up on how to install it! Thanks for the reminder.
We live in New England and have radiant heat flooring in our 4 season sunroom. In the winter this is the most used room.
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What is your plan for the window? I have the same layout in my old bathroom and currently use a shower curtain over the window. I'm considering a vented glass block window if / when I redo my bath so I can get rid of the curtain.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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Day 2 Update:
Demo: 80% Complete. All tile demo'd, tub removed, galv water supply and cast iron drains demo'd. Additional demo to include: right wall demo down to studs up to vanity light, clean up around floor edges and corners, removal of laminate floor layers down to subfloor, removal of old electrical, and left wall demo for where there will be a new medicine cabinet (placement TBD)
Bathroom Plumbing Rough-in: 10% complete. I ran the new pex through the floor and installed test plugs so I could turn the house water back on, just finished replumbing all water supply lines with pex.
Insulation: 100% complete. This took ~30 min, so i couldn't resist getting it out of the way to mark it off the list.
Current status:
(http://i.imgur.com/6qRLYl0l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eSd5BDLl.jpg)
Plans / goals for day 3: 50+% on carpentry work. Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained.
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain
Question for the experts:
I would prefer to leave the old cast iron vent stack in the wall (barely visible above on the right wall photo) as cast iron demo is time consuming and it would require additional wall demo. My plan would be to cap the old sink drain in the wall and cap the old vent pipe stack in the attic (under the roof line) and leave the basement side open (nothing should come out with both of the inlets capped). It is currently supported from the base with a plumbers strap as shown below. Any thoughts on if this is acceptable and/or should I add additional strapping below or in the wall to prevent it from shifting down the road?
(http://i.imgur.com/B3pOCZ4l.jpg)
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For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).
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For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).
I did demo most of the drain piping with a 'bfh' (big f*ing hammer) but hadn't heard of scoring it with an angle grinder. I'm guessing I can get a clean cut for the pvc / cast iron transition from scoring. What kind of wheel do you use on the grinder?
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For the cast iron demo:
A "trick" is to score it with a angle grinder, it should break like glass along the indent with a fair whack of a decent percussive persuader (wear eye protection, it could grenade).
I did demo most of the drain piping with a 'bfh' (big f*ing hammer) but hadn't heard of scoring it with an angle grinder. I'm guessing I can get a clean cut for the pvc / cast iron transition from scoring. What kind of wheel do you use on the grinder?
General purpose 2mm cutting disk, I use the 150 grinder for this usually.
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Posting to follow. Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub? It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed. There are cheaper options than Kerdi. You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall. And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome. http://www.johnbridge.com/
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Posting to follow. Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub? It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed. There are cheaper options than Kerdi. You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall. And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome. http://www.johnbridge.com/
Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list. I'd recommend backer board. Yes, green board is meant for wet areas. IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower." It still turns to snot if it gets wet.
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follow
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Posting to follow. Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub? It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed. There are cheaper options than Kerdi. You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall. And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome. http://www.johnbridge.com/
Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list. I'd recommend backer board. Yes, green board is meant for wet areas. IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower." It still turns to snot if it gets wet.
Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower. For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
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What is your plan for the window? I have the same layout in my old bathroom and currently use a shower curtain over the window. I'm considering a vented glass block window if / when I redo my bath so I can get rid of the curtain.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
In a perfect world, I'd take out the window and arch and leave a small vent window or just glass block for light. However, its such a cost and time adder, that I decided early on to leave it out of the scope. So the window is just going to get resealed and trim repainted with high gloss paint. I will either hang a waterproof curtain or get more opaque sashes for it.
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Plans / goals for day 3: 50+% on carpentry work. Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 75%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 25%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 0%
Day 3 Update:
Ended up demo'ing a bit more of the left wall than I originally wanted to, but it was necessary to box in the slot for the medicine cabinet. Made progress as noted above.
Goals for day 4:
100% complete on above.
Complete shower rough ins
Finish right wall demo (except for old vanity light)
Start either drain rough ins or electrical.
No new pictures as not much changed. Will take new ones on Friday!
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Posting to follow. Are you going to do a waterproof membrane on the walls around the tub? It's highly recommended - grout is NOT waterproof, even when sealed. There are cheaper options than Kerdi. You can use a paint-on waterproofing method (RedGard) on the drywall. And if you need tiling tips, the John Bridge forum is awesome. http://www.johnbridge.com/
Along those lines.... I notice "hang drywall" in the todo list. I'd recommend backer board. Yes, green board is meant for wet areas. IMO, that means "humid" not "in the shower." It still turns to snot if it gets wet.
Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower. For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
This is exactly what I've done in the past. I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both. Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there. I'm not an expert, so as someone upthread said: john bridge forum would be the place to sort that question out if it bothers you.
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What kind of shower valve will you be using?
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What an awesome thread.
May I ask the budget for a project like this? I was curious about the leaving the arc in, but I see that you wanted to keep it in for budget reasons.
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Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower. For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
This is exactly what I've done in the past. I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both. Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.
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Are you following MMM's poured showerpan instructions? (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/)
Can you let me know what shower drain flange you will use?
Really cool project. Following!
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Are you following MMM's poured showerpan instructions? (http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/)
Can you let me know what shower drain flange you will use?
Really cool project. Following!
It looks like he's sticking with a tub.
Mostly PTF. We renovated our master bath 10 years ago with in floor heat - still love it! We used a composite shower pan and Kerdi for the shower walls. It probably was more expensive than a diy shower pan and the paint on stuff, but it worked well for us.
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It looks like he's sticking with a tub.
Mostly PTF. We renovated our master bath 10 years ago with in floor heat - still love it! We used a composite shower pan and Kerdi for the shower walls. It probably was more expensive than a diy shower pan and the paint on stuff, but it worked well for us.
Naah, he demolished the tub and talks about shower.
What did you do with the floor heat geekette? Was it a electric one or was it the pipes with water flowing thru it?
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I saw in the original post "tub will be left drain vs right drain", and assumed a new tub.
We went with the electric version of floor heat.
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Posting to follow! Sometime this year (or possible next year) our master bathroom is on the chopping block.
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Plans / goals for day 3: 50+% on carpentry work. Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 100%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 100%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 25%
Day 4/5 Update:
Finished most of the carpentry work, but toilet drain is right over a floor joist and I did not have the 2x6 lumber to box it out.
100% complete on supply plumbing (roughed in shower supply and shower valve today)
Started on electrical. Boxes are now installed, but no wires.
Finished up the demo. Floor is down to subfloor and right wall is down to studs around the old medicine cabinet box with the old vanity now gone.
Ended the day with a trip to menards for PVC fittings and switches. Looking forward to drain plumbing and electrical all day tomorrow!
Forgot to take pictures (again) will make sure to do so tomorrow with the fish-eye lens.
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Plans / goals for day 3: 50+% on carpentry work. Carpentry Scope:
patch floor holes where tub and toilet drained. - 100% done
remove stud in non-load bearing wall and box in shower built in shelf - 100%
remove stud in non-load bearing wall for tub drain / shower plumbing and cut new hole in floor - 100%
complete left wall demo and box in new medicine cabinet.- 100%
cut hole in floor for new toilet drain- 25%
Day 4/5 Update:
Finished most of the carpentry work, but toilet drain is right over a floor joist and I did not have the 2x6 lumber to box it out.
100% complete on supply plumbing (roughed in shower supply and shower valve today)
Started on electrical. Boxes are now installed, but no wires.
Finished up the demo. Floor is down to subfloor and right wall is down to studs around the old medicine cabinet box with the old vanity now gone.
Ended the day with a trip to menards for PVC fittings and switches. Looking forward to drain plumbing and electrical all day tomorrow!
Forgot to take pictures (again) will make sure to do so tomorrow with the fish-eye lens.
I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)
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I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)
I did, you can fit a lot of plumbing fittings and electrical components in that bag!
Day 6 Update:
Plumbing is (nearly-95%) done! Tub is in and all the drains connected. But I did not want to get on the roof with the ice, so the vent just terminates in the attic at the moment.
Electrical is started, but did not get very far today.
Pictures:
Status / Schedule Update:
(http://i.imgur.com/kD0kC4kl.png)
Right wall:
(http://i.imgur.com/gEgzKO6l.jpg)
Left wall:
(http://i.imgur.com/2WCLtQvl.jpg)
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I hope you used your "15% off" brown paper bag :)
Left wall:
(http://i.imgur.com/2WCLtQvl.jpg)
It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.
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The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.
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It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.
Wow! I have plumbed dozens of new homes with PEX and love the stuff. I have experienced the "why is the damn shower head drooling/spitting while I'm running the tub spout?" problem but never knew why? Thanks.
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It appears that you are keeping the window intact? Please make sure that it is glazed with tempered glass. It is a code requirement, and for a good reason. A fall in the shower, with any body parts flailing about (arms, etc) can result in broken glass, and a bloody mess, at best.
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Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower. For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
This is exactly what I've done in the past. I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both. Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.
+1. Red guard is a vapor barrier as is the 3mil plastic. It's not only about water getting in, but condensation as well. It needs to breathe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.
Wow! I have plumbed dozens of new homes with PEX and love the stuff. I have experienced the "why is the damn shower head drooling/spitting while I'm running the tub spout?" problem but never knew why? Thanks.
Yeah - our bathroom has exactly this problem and I never could understand why. Not worth it to correct now (and we weren't the ones to install the PEX) but good to know for next time. Thanks!
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Green drywall will be installed everywhere but the shower. For the shower the plan is to staple 3mil plastic sheet, then duroc, then a trowel on water proofing (store brand redgard), then tile & grout, then seal.
This is exactly what I've done in the past. I've read since then that you should use either the plastic sheeting or the Redgaurd but not both. Supposedly it makes a sandwich where if water gets in, it is permanently trapped there.
That's right--you prevent the water from getting through, but if it *does* get through, you want it to have an easy path to continue on its way, so that it doesn't get trapped and cause problems.
+1. Red guard is a vapor barrier as is the 3mil plastic. It's not only about water getting in, but condensation as well. It needs to breathe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I understand what you are saying about moisture being trapped. However, the only material between the 3mil plastic and redgaurd is Durock which is designed to be wet. It wont rot, mold, warp, or lose structural strength. So I don't see the problems caused by any moisture that might be trapped? If you're getting moisture past the red gaurd, that is why I want the 3mil plastic on the other side of the durock - to prevent the water from rotting the stud wall.
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It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.
Thanks for the heads up! I did not know this. I will swap the 1/2" pex for 3/4".
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The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.
Funny, we experienced the exact opposite; because the floors were warm we were more comfortable with the thermostat set lower. Ultimately our heating is all electric, and either we were heating the air or the floors we were walking on (which eventually heated the air anyhow). Might be different if you are heating with gas or bunker-fuel.
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I understand what you are saying about moisture being trapped. However, the only material between the 3mil plastic and redgaurd is Durock which is designed to be wet. It wont rot, mold, warp, or lose structural strength. So I don't see the problems caused by any moisture that might be trapped? If you're getting moisture past the red gaurd, that is why I want the 3mil plastic on the other side of the durock - to prevent the water from rotting the stud wall.
That's ok for a little while, but if water gets into the durock once, it'll continue to get into the durock in the future. If there's a water barrier on the back side of the durock, that water will build up more and more until something bad happens. By omitting the 3 mil plastic, you prevent the water from building up.
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It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you plumbed the tub spout with PEX. If so, I recommend you change that to Copper or brass. The smaller diameter of PEX creates backpressure which causes water to come out of the shower head when you run the spout. Not always, but more often than not. Easy to change now. Not so much after you cover it with tile.
Thanks for the heads up! I did not know this. I will swap the 1/2" pex for 3/4".
No problem. That should work just fine.
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Day 7 Update:
Electrical: 70ish% Complete.
All wire is run and switches / outlets are connected. However, there is (of course) a ceiling joist running down the direct center of the bathroom. Normally I would install the bath vent / ceiling light combo just off-center and not worry about it, but with the pointed arch above the tub, it would really stand out and look too odd to be off-center. So temporary ceiling supports and heading off that joist are what is on the schedule for day 8 (tonight)!
Electrical picture update:
(http://i.imgur.com/H5fjP9Dl.jpg)
Overall, I'd say that the project is going well, and is a little ahead of schedule, but we will be falling behind soon. I have not decided on what tile to go with yet and any special order tile will be 1-2 weeks out. Additional there's likely to be a bunch of scope creep: (1) I have been looking at deflection calculators (thankyou for the johnbridge link) and I should probably add floor joists in the basement if I go with the tile floor for crack prevention; (2) I am also reconsidering the window - thinking about replacing with a 32x14" shallow upper window vent; (3) installation of in-floor radiant heat. Those three items are likely to add 1-2 days each.
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The problem with radiant heat floors is that they add to your electric bill. Bathroom rugs are a much cheaper way to go, FWIW. Since you're on a tight deadline, I think I'd skip it. We have it (came with the house) and never use it. In fact, when our furnace was out for a few weeks, we decided to turn it on. Apparently the control unit needs some sort of battery. Yeah, we couldn't be bothered to replace it, despite the fact that it got down to 55 degrees (13 Celsius for my international friends) in the house.
In our house it would be a net energy saver. . . the bathrooms have built in electric space heaters which certain household members love when its time to shower and based upon the last place we lived without them . . . well the central heat got turned up when it was time to shower. So low wattage heated floor vs central oil boiler for the whole house, or high wattage mounted space heaters, yeah it would save money.
Now, if a member of your house does not currently have/do either of those, then yes it would add to your bills.
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When I redid our bathroom, I put in floor electric heat and we absolutely love it. We keep the temperature in our bedroom cooler than we did because it is pleasant to walk onto a warm tile floor even if the air temps are cold. To compromise, I hooked the electric heat in the floor up to a smart thermostat so it only heats during the parts of the day that we use the master bath, mainly for an hour in the morning and several hours in the evenings. I'll never go back to having cold tile floors in a bathroom.
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Your progress is awesome. Re. scope creep and delays: take the time to do it right and also to get exactly what you want. Better a few days late than regretting your choices later on, if you're planning on enjoying the results for years.
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So, we are waaay overdue for an update.
Day 8:
Electrical is 100% done. See below pictures for temp supports for cutting ceiling joist and finished light/ventfan combo.
Day 9: Meant to get all the drywall hung, but I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall. The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming. If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future. ( no picture, will update later).
Pictures:
Updated Schedule:
(http://i.imgur.com/n09GzDSl.jpg)
I could say that I was busy at work, got chores around the house done, shopped around and decided on tile, and cooked an awesome split-pea soup (which are all true), but I also just had a lack of motivation last week and slacked off.
Day 8:
(http://i.imgur.com/rDgm2sAl.jpg)
Temporary supports
(http://i.imgur.com/mjWL2sll.jpg)
Finished 'boob-light' / vent fan combo - and centered like I wanted!
Bonus Pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/BFBsGfTl.jpg)
Old Horizontal sink drain line... I wonder how well draino would do against whatever crap that is?
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I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall. The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming. If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future.
Where possible, I attach a laser or string as a reference to final depth (where you want the 2x4 to end and drywall to start) and then add the 2x4 to the side of the existing stud bumping it out as far as necessary. No ripping or measuring involved that way. You end up with a double thick stud that way but you save a lot in time and effort.
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I'm glad someone else calls those "boob lights" :-)
Can't believe all the crap that was in your drain pipe!
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Who doesn't call them boob lights?
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This is cool. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
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I am really impressed with your speed, even counting your slacking off. I did a much smaller job a while back (new walls around the tub, new wall tile, reglaze the tub) and it took me over a year!
Also, your drain picture made me gag.
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I was pretty slow yesterday and only finished nailing the 'shim boards' - not sure what to call these, but they are rip-sawn 2x4s that will bump out the stud wall to where 1/2" drywall will be flush with the old concrete / plaster wall. The wall at each stud was a different depth and so the 2x4 had to be ripped at a different width for each one - overall, very time consuming. If anyone knows a better method for this, let me know for future.
Where possible, I attach a laser or string as a reference to final depth (where you want the 2x4 to end and drywall to start) and then add the 2x4 to the side of the existing stud bumping it out as far as necessary. No ripping or measuring involved that way. You end up with a double thick stud that way but you save a lot in time and effort.
Oh yea! I've seen this done before, I just didn't connect what they were doing. Probably would have saved me an hour or two!
Who doesn't call them boob lights?
agreed, haha
Also, your drain picture made me gag.
Sorry about that - at least you didn't see it in person - or should say - smell it in person?
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Thanks to all for the comments and help, posting and reading is helping a lot on motivation to keep chugging along!
Day 10 Update:
Drywall.... 75% on the wall. I started with the most complicated piece (behind the vanity), got the cut-outs spot on, but then screwed into the hot water supply line halfway through attaching it. Thankfully, this was just a 20 minute delay with pex, but it did put a damper on the evening. Finished hanging the left-wall drywall.
Day 11 Update:
Only worked 2 hours today. Finished hanging the drywall, spent some time cleaning up and putting away tools and applied the first layer of drywall mud.
Goals for Day 12: The weather looks great tomorrow with no rain and temps in the 60s so tomorrow we are tackling the window! The plan is to remove the old window, frame and install the smaller new window and use roof felt as a moisture barrier. I do not have new siding purchased yet, it may be a few weeks if it has to be special ordered. After the daylight is gone, second coat of mud on the drywall.
Pictures:
(http://i.imgur.com/5oLy944l.jpg)
Day 10: Not really in the wrong spot, but the angle is what did it.
(http://i.imgur.com/dip34UYl.jpg)
Day 11: Right wall hung and finished today
(http://i.imgur.com/4Y2nMT1l.jpg)
Day 11: First coat of mud on the left wall
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Who doesn't call them boob lights?
We call them ceiling boobs, not boob lights.
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Day 11: Finished the window work. It was an amazing day out :D, sunny and 68degF. Felt like spring in mid January and I could not think of a better way to spend the daylight hours.
Took 2 trips to lowes (2hrs - luckily they had matching siding in stock) and about 4 hours of actual work.
Pictures:
(http://i.imgur.com/UpWDXPsl.jpg)
Step 1: Knock out old window
(http://i.imgur.com/CIA9oRWl.jpg)
Step 2-5: Remove siding, frame new box, install moisture barrier, and install new window
(http://i.imgur.com/jKKTlial.jpg)
Step 6: Window Tape
(http://i.imgur.com/ePBXqE9l.jpg)
Step 6-7: New rigid foam insulation and New siding.
I didnt take any pictures of it, but I installed 3/4" rigid foam to be flush with the old wood siding and old 1/4" rigid foam.
This is my 2nd time doing siding work and I think it looks alright. You can definitely tell new from old, but I think in a year it will blend in.
(http://i.imgur.com/9CI0Ztml.jpg)
Veiw from Inside
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Awesome progress and great work on the siding!
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Glad to see that you changed the window. Thanks for the pics, that will be helpful whenever I get around to doing that!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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Day 12 (Sunday) Update: Yesterday was a lot of loose ends. The weather was nice again, 60s and overcast, so I took it as an opportunity to work on the roof. Removed the old cast iron vent in the attic, routed the new PVC through the old cast iron vent hole and installed a new boot on the roof. Installed the vent fan exhaust duct, cut a new hole in the roof and installed new vent flashing assembly on the roof. Also took care of the tub spout pex issue, replaced 1/2" with 3/4". Lastly, I cut and installed the 'shim-boards' for the wall around the tub so it will be ready for the durock.
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This is pretty cool. Posting so I can find this again.
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This is pretty cool. Posting so I can find this again.
Plus one to this!
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How's it going, OP? Are you too busy renovating to post updates?
How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
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How's it going, OP? Are you too busy renovating to post updates?
How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
I don't know how the OP fared on this issue, but there seem to be a common perception that the easy way to handle an old cast iron tube is to just bust it up with a sledge. The flip side of this is that the broken pieces can be beyond razor sharp, more like surgical instrument sharp. They can slice through denim jeans and make a bloody mess before you even know you're cut. Be careful.
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How's it going, OP? Are you too busy renovating to post updates?
Not bad! and I am definitely overdue for an update.
We had more lost weekdays between family visiting on wednesday and two twelve hour days at work monday /tuesday.
Day 13 (Friday):
Trip to lowe's for concrete board and installed the furring strips on the walls around the tub to get the concrete board flush.
Day 14 (Saturday):
Morning: loaded up all the cast iron / steel scrap and took it to the recycling yard ($78!).
Afternoon: Installed the concrete board - entire bath is now closed in!
Day 15 (Sunday):
Clean up day. I was getting things together to mix thinset for the concrete board joints and realized that I just had too much stuff everywhere to work effectively. I ended up spending the day cleaning up, organizing tools (putting away all the tools I had for rough-in work) and sweeping. It is so much easier to work in a clean area than a messy one.
Today's goal: Thinset concrete board joints and put down Hardiboard on the floor (time permitting).
I am going to have one more workday (tonight after work) and then I am headed to Vermont for a ski trip - getting back into town on Monday, 2/6. That means that it looks like I'll miss my goal by at least two weeks.
How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
The tub was a pain in the ass. I was able to get it out of the bath myself using a dolly and some levers without breaking it up. When unfinished, my bathroom is ~61.5" from stud to stud which was enough clearance to get it up on its end, wedge a hand truck underneath it, and wheel it out the door.
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How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
The tub was a pain in the ass.
I don't know how the OP fared on this issue, but there seem to be a common perception that the easy way to handle an old cast iron tube is to just bust it up with a sledge. The flip side of this is that the broken pieces can be beyond razor sharp, more like surgical instrument sharp. They can slice through denim jeans and make a bloody mess before you even know you're cut. Be careful.
So I was right to be suspicious! Thanks. Better the enemy you know...
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I'm remodeling one of my bathrooms right now as well. I bought two of those bootz tubs at HD, had to return both of them with chips and cracks in the enamel, beware! They look nice but seem to lack quality control. I ended up spending about $100 more for a American standard americast tub.
I highly recommend walking in the tub to see if you experience any creaking sounds. Sometimes they need a little extra shimming here and there to eliminate the creaking. There not always perfectly level.
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Not sure where you're at in this project? But if you haven't put your backerboard on the walls yet, it's a good idea to add blocking between the studs around the top of the tub. Gives the backerboard a good solid support around the tub and prevents any flexing that ends up crackin tile joints.
As already mentioned, red guard the backerboard, 2 or 3 coats!
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How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
The tub was a pain in the ass.
I don't know how the OP fared on this issue, but there seem to be a common perception that the easy way to handle an old cast iron tube is to just bust it up with a sledge. The flip side of this is that the broken pieces can be beyond razor sharp, more like surgical instrument sharp. They can slice through denim jeans and make a bloody mess before you even know you're cut. Be careful.
So I was right to be suspicious! Thanks. Better the enemy you know...
On a related note, the DW and I just bought a house built in 1955. It has the strangest tub I have ever seen. It's a four foot square , very shallow, awful bright blue soaking tub with a shower head. I just assumed that it was from the seventies, since it looks like a bad idea from the disco era. Well, as usual, I was wrong. First clue, the area above the tile surround was sand finish plaster, like all the other walls in the place, so it's pretty unlikely that the tub area was redone. Second clue, the place had one owner for over half a century and they were kind enough to leave the original blueprints in a closet, and yep, there is a really odd, square tub on the prints, Finally, I gave the tub a good knuckle tap, and DAMN, it's not only odd, ugly, and huge, it' s cast iron. It has to go, since the one and only bathroom is a study in awful design and ascetics. The problem is that the thing is not only twice the size of any tub I have ever seen, it probably weighs as much as a Civic. I'll have to find a few dim witted helpers when it's time to drag this beast to the curb, since it's gonna' suck.
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How hard was it to get the old tub out? I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they make it look so easy that I am suspicious! Did you cut it in pieces or take it out whole?
The tub was a pain in the ass.
I don't know how the OP fared on this issue, but there seem to be a common perception that the easy way to handle an old cast iron tube is to just bust it up with a sledge. The flip side of this is that the broken pieces can be beyond razor sharp, more like surgical instrument sharp. They can slice through denim jeans and make a bloody mess before you even know you're cut. Be careful.
So I was right to be suspicious! Thanks. Better the enemy you know...
On a related note, the DW and I just bought a house built in 1955. It has the strangest tub I have ever seen. It's a four foot square , very shallow, awful bright blue soaking tub with a shower head. I just assumed that it was from the seventies, since it looks like a bad idea from the disco era. Well, as usual, I was wrong. First clue, the area above the tile surround was sand finish plaster, like all the other walls in the place, so it's pretty unlikely that the tub area was redone. Second clue, the place had one owner for over half a century and they were kind enough to leave the original blueprints in a closet, and yep, there is a really odd, square tub on the prints, Finally, I gave the tub a good knuckle tap, and DAMN, it's not only odd, ugly, and huge, it' s cast iron. It has to go, since the one and only bathroom is a study in awful design and ascetics. The problem is that the thing is not only twice the size of any tub I have ever seen, it probably weighs as much as a Civic. I'll have to find a few dim witted helpers when it's time to drag this beast to the curb, since it's gonna' suck.
If it's that big... will it even fit through doors? I've seen some fairly normalish sized tubs that obviously came in through windows or were brought in before trim (or before studs) to be able to maneuver it.
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If it's that big... will it even fit through doors? I've seen some fairly normalish sized tubs that obviously came in through windows or were brought in before trim (or before studs) to be able to maneuver it.
Yea, the dimensions are no problem. Think 4 ft square by about 16" tall. Standing on edge, it will leave the house without issue, other than the fact that it's probably twice as heavy as a typical cast iron tub.
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If it's that big... will it even fit through doors? I've seen some fairly normalish sized tubs that obviously came in through windows or were brought in before trim (or before studs) to be able to maneuver it.
Yea, the dimensions are no problem. Think 4 ft square by about 16" tall. Standing on edge, it will leave the house without issue, other than the fact that it's probably twice as heavy as a typical cast iron tub.
Does it work to score it and chunk it out that way? Or does it still tend to shatter?
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If it's that big... will it even fit through doors? I've seen some fairly normalish sized tubs that obviously came in through windows or were brought in before trim (or before studs) to be able to maneuver it.
Yea, the dimensions are no problem. Think 4 ft square by about 16" tall. Standing on edge, it will leave the house without issue, other than the fact that it's probably twice as heavy as a typical cast iron tub.
Does it work to score it and chunk it out that way? Or does it still tend to shatter?
Yea, I will probably just bash it into manageable chunks. My only hesitation is something I mentioned earlier, about how insanely sharp the porcelain coating is. I was supervising construction on a new hotel and got down on my knees to inspect an issue. I didn't know the the porcelain coating was cracked and lifted on the rim of a tub. I also did not realize that I was badly cut until the side of my hand was shooting blood everywhere. The stuff is so sharp I didn't feel a thing, and it was a deep gash.
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If it's that big... will it even fit through doors? I've seen some fairly normalish sized tubs that obviously came in through windows or were brought in before trim (or before studs) to be able to maneuver it.
Yea, the dimensions are no problem. Think 4 ft square by about 16" tall. Standing on edge, it will leave the house without issue, other than the fact that it's probably twice as heavy as a typical cast iron tub.
Does it work to score it and chunk it out that way? Or does it still tend to shatter?
Yea, I will probably just bash it into manageable chunks. My only hesitation is something I mentioned earlier, about how insanely sharp the porcelain coating is. I was supervising construction on a new hotel and got down on my knees to inspect an issue. I didn't know the the porcelain coating was cracked and lifted on the rim of a tub. I also did not realize that I was badly cut until the side of my hand was shooting blood everywhere. The stuff is so sharp I didn't feel a thing, and it was a deep gash.
Porcelain is effectively glass. And it's incredibly thin. I wouldn't have thought about it and would have smashed away at a big tub. But it totally makes sense when I think about it.
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very inspiring -- never done a bathroom remodel but nice to see your experience
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thanks for sharing this project with us!
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So after traveling most of February, I am back working on the bath regulary and have a lot of progress to share!
Day 16, 17, & 18 (february):
Drywall work. These were shorter days, 2-3 hours of working where I was mudding and sanding the drywall. I also took the opportunity to patch holes and cracks in the two bedrooms.
Photo for end of day 18 - drywall had the third coat of mud sanded with some touch-up spots of mud added.
(http://imgur.com/R0fET3al.jpg)
Left wall
(http://imgur.com/rgA8Wtcl.jpg)
Right wall
Day 19 - short day (february):
Final sand and walls/ceiling primed
Day 20 (february):
1st coat of paint on walls and ceiling, painted bedroom as well.
Day 21 (3/1/17):
Second coat of paint on walls and crown molding
Day 21 picture:
(http://i.imgur.com/nJqRdCkl.jpg)
Day 22 (3/4/17):
Taped and jointed concrete board, installed vanity lights and medicine cabinet
Day 22 pictures:
(http://imgur.com/0W6q3Apl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Q1u5MFal.jpg)
My favorite feature so far - custom electrical outlet in the built-in medicine cabinet (no clutter of wires on the vanity!)
Day 23 (3/5/17):
Troweled on the waterproof membrane on the bathtub walls. Installed the 1/4" hardiboard on the floors. Installed the thermostat and wiring for the floors and layed out the heating element for the floors. Installed cover plates on the electrical boxes.
Day 23 pictures:
(http://imgur.com/tXNtz2Ll.jpg)
Forward view
(http://i.imgur.com/uRgz5nRl.jpg)
Reverse view with the new thermostat and cover plates
This upcoming week is going to be a busy one with work, but I hope to have the tiling done by saturdya and the grouting done sunday - just have to focus!
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It would be really cool if you posted your favorite resources for each of these items. I don't know where you are getting your knowledge, but if it were me for example, I'd be guided by a really cool thread on under-floor heating, a separate posting on the proper backing to tile, and so forth.
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Awesome work! Good work on the tape and mud.
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It would be really cool if you posted your favorite resources for each of these items. I don't know where you are getting your knowledge, but if it were me for example, I'd be guided by a really cool thread on under-floor heating, a separate posting on the proper backing to tile, and so forth.
I got most of my knowledge on the 'rough-in' portion from my dad and working with him on a previous house. I fill in the blanks from a few reference books on electrical and plumbing as needed (I cant remember the titles off the top of my head, but will add). That prior knowledge and confidence is probably why I am so quick at working through the rough-in steps of renovations.
The finishing (drywall mud, tiling, grouting, etc) is stuff that I have mostly learned on my own and through instruction guides and youtube / online resources. I am nowhere near an expert yet and one of the big reasons I work so slowly on it is that I get stuck reading about how to do it and trying to decide between conflicting advice. Your right though in that I should keep track of the good resources that I find and putting it all together would make a great post.
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Question. Should that outlet in the medicine cabinet have been a GFCI ? It is a bathroom and pretty close to water.
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Question. Should that outlet in the medicine cabinet have been a GFCI ? It is a bathroom and pretty close to water.
It could be a GFCI outlet, but it is not necessary. It is already GFCI protected as it is fed from the GFCI outlet below the medicine cabinet. You only need one actual GFCI outlet to protect a series of outlets so long as it is properly positioned and wired. Hope that makes sense.
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Perfectly. I didn't know about the other one.
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It would be really cool if you posted your favorite resources for each of these items. I don't know where you are getting your knowledge, but if it were me for example, I'd be guided by a really cool thread on under-floor heating, a separate posting on the proper backing to tile, and so forth.
Doing the whole ground floor, with new furnace and thermal solar panels next summer, I'll do a step by step.
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Quick update:
Day 24 - 3/7:
After a trip to the store for a snap tile cutter I spent a few hours with some scrap tile practicing snaps and trying out a bullnose router bit and sander for creating bullnose edges.
Day 25 - 3/8:
Put down floor tile. Although I finished the floor, I got a lot later start than I wanted and was there til midnight. When I go back tonight, I'll find out how many mistakes I made when I was tired! No picture, I'll take one after I clean up all the thin-set that ended up on top of the tiles rather than under!
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I'm not sure how much tile you lay down but if you are ever doing more than a bathroom, I bought the following tile saw online many years ago for almost $200. It is now listed for $90 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HIWR08/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it for my bathroom remodel thinking it might be disposable if it didn't hold up. Since then I've used it on a dozen other projects and loaned it out for a dozen others and the thing keeps on ticking. I like it because I get a much better cut than using the scoring/snap cutters. I also use it to cut rounded profiles by making lots of vertical cuts to the line and then nibbling around them using the side of the blade. (The diamond coating goes back about 1/4" from the leading edge of the blade." It is very light and portable. The one drawback is that you have to keep the water cooling tank filled up and the blade flings it around so I generally make my cuts in the garage or outside.
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I'm not sure how much tile you lay down but if you are ever doing more than a bathroom, I bought the following tile saw online many years ago for almost $200. It is now listed for $90 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HIWR08/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it for my bathroom remodel thinking it might be disposable if it didn't hold up. Since then I've used it on a dozen other projects and loaned it out for a dozen others and the thing keeps on ticking. I like it because I get a much better cut than using the scoring/snap cutters. I also use it to cut rounded profiles by making lots of vertical cuts to the line and then nibbling around them using the side of the blade. (The diamond coating goes back about 1/4" from the leading edge of the blade." It is very light and portable. The one drawback is that you have to keep the water cooling tank filled up and the blade flings it around so I generally make my cuts in the garage or outside.
This looks very much like the Rigid branded saw I bought a few years back for about the same price. (Likely it's the same one branded 10 different ways.)
I'd always used the slide-snap type tile cutters before I bought it. They're great for large tiles... a pain for a sheet of small tiles.... and they won't do anything for oddball cuts around corners, plumbing, etc.
I'm with lthenerson. I've used mine quite a bit. It was useful at $200 and if you can get it for $90, it's a steal. I've even been cutting bricks with mine lately. (It takes 2 passes to cut them -- one from top, one from bottom. It's not very efficient, but for a handful of bricks, it works.)
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Looking great! Thanks for the update!
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I've even been cutting bricks with mine lately. (It takes 2 passes to cut them -- one from top, one from bottom. It's not very efficient, but for a handful of bricks, it works.)
Funny you say that. My daughter found a geode this summer and I cut it open using my tile saw and then polished the face with my palm sander. Turned out great.
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Day 26 - 3/10: Cleaned up the thinset from groutlines and from the top of the tile. general cleanup of tools.
Pic of the floor:
(http://i.imgur.com/DAIQy3Rl.jpg)
Hope to grout tonight and install base molding / vanity / toilet / door / door trim tomorrow!
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This is looking so nice!
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Quick update for the work that I did over the weekend:
Day 27 - 3/11:
Short day for working on the bath, just grouted, took ~1.5 hours start to finish.
Pic of grouted floors:
(http://i.imgur.com/0cBxt0il.jpg)
You can see some haze in the picture, but it wiped up easily the next day
Day 28 - 3/12:
Much longer day. Installed and finished the floor trim. Installed the toilet and vanity. Worked a little bit on the built cabinetry.
Day 28 Pictures:
(http://i.imgur.com/xS2DNqxl.jpg)
Cutouts in the foor trim for the vanity legs.
(http://i.imgur.com/vJabkFSl.jpg)
Looking much more like a bathroom!
Day 29 - 3/15:
The new faucet came in and got installed with the sink drain and vanity backsplash!
Faucet pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/GULy324l.png)
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Really coming together.
Looks good.
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Love the wall color with the vanity and countertop!
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Really coming together.
Looks good.
Love the wall color with the vanity and countertop!
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement!
I don't know if there will be much progress on the bathroom this weekend. For the shower, I am having to cut my own bullnose, rounded edge tiles and I am waiting for the porcelain tile paint to come in for finishing the rounded edge. I may tile everything but the edge tiles - we will see.
I'm guessing it will take another 4-5 days or so for the tile, grout, cabinetry, and door work. I am going to try making new cabinet doors for the built-ins.
After this is done, it will be on to the kitchen!
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OP, do you have a rough idea of the total cost for the project?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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OP, do you have a rough idea of the total cost for the project?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Original plan was to spend ~$3000, but the vanity blew the budget. That and all the little stuff adds up.
Looks like it will come in just under $4,000. This includes some new tools - not just supplies:
Cost Item Location
$210 Tub Home Depot
$112 Sink Faucet Amazon
$230 Shower RoughIn, Duroc, Insulation, Misc Menards
$130 Shower Trim Fixture Ebay
$50 Fan / Light Amazon
$193 Shower Tile Lowes
$71 Floor Tile Lowes
$35 Paint Lowes
$15 GFCI Lowes
$40 Crown Molding Lowes
$64 Hardiboard & Screws Lowes
$12 Sponge, Mesh Tape Home Depot
$26 Snap Tile Cutter Harbor Freight
$30 Shower Tile Enamel Amazon
$90 Bullnose Blade Amazon
$400 Shower Door (Glass) Amazon
$55 Hole Saw Kits Harbor Freight
$130 Medicine Cabinet Amazon
$67 Materials - Drywall & Mud Home Depot
$36 Grout Lowes
$74 Thinset Home Depot
$54 Foam & Siding Lowes
$45 Window Lowes
$20 Plywood Home Depot
$1,063 Vanity / Sink / Vanity Top Houzz
$50 Vanity Lights Amazon
$45 Electrical Misc Lowes
$205 Heated Floors Amazon
$180 Lowes Misc Lowes
$30 Roof Vent Cap Amazon
$50 Pex Lowes
$118 Drain/Supply Plumbing Materials Menards
$18 Trim Lowes
$13 Toilet Seat Lowes
$3972 Grand Total
Not included are some smaller supplies under that I had lying around (drywall screws, wire & conduit, window tape, roofing felt, gloss white trim paint, etc.). I'm sure those would have been under $100-300 if bought new.
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Ugh. Yeah, I can't get a budget together fort these projects either. 25% -40% over whatever I figure is about right, plus I'm usually way off on how long it will take me.
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I have a project like this coming up. I should post a before picture. Imagine a pink tile floor with brown tile tub surround and floor trim, matched to a geometric laminate pink countertop and brown walls with one red accent wall. Hideous.
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Looking good! I just had two tiles fail in my tub surround (crack in the grout led to the tile separating from the cement board). I chiseled off the old adhesive and reset the tiles, about to do the grout. My question is: should I seal the grout? Are you going to do anything special to your surround grout?