Learning to knit socks

[MrsPete]

I want to learn to knit socks.  If it goes well, I'll make a bunch for Christmas presents -- I'd better start now. 

I've been reading instructions all over the internet, and one piece of instruction I'm finding is that I should use "sock yarn".  Okay, I have to admit that I didn't realize "sock yarn" was a thing. 

I'm reading that it's more fine (fine as in "thinner"), which means the sock'll fit into shoes more easily.  On that topic, I'm thinking I'd be open to some fat yarn for "indoor socks", but I also wonder about using other thin yarn (i.e., that soft stuff that's meant for baby blankets -- I have a bunch of that, which I bought for a baby gift that didn't quite come together in time).  I also read that "sock yarn" is more absorbent; thus, more comfortable to wear inside shoes.  I do prefer natural fibers over plasticky-feeling fabrics.  And "sock yarn" comes in varigated skeins so that you end up with an attractive pattern instead of just a solid (or the need to change colors, which for a knitter of my limited skill is a positive). 

I betcha already guessed the other side of the coin:  At full price, "sock yarn" seems to be in the same price range as regular yarn ... but regular yarn is easy to find super-cheap on ebay and other cheap sources. 

So, any advice on whether "sock yarn" is worth the cost? 
Or any other advice on knitting socks? 

One detail worth mentioning:  I am allergic to wool, so even if the socks aren't for me myself, I don't want to spend time with itchy, runny eyes and sneezes while I'm knitting. 

[CommonCents]

No idea.  But a friend sent me an article on how much different yarns do matter in the final product (pics are really interesting): http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/yarn-substitution-ze0z1411zcwil.aspx#axzz3K2PlAQSo

[Merrie]

Sock yarn is the same as fingering weight yarn, another term you may have run across, but provided conveniently in sock-sized units. 100 grams of sock yarn (around 400 yards) makes two adult socks, with perhaps some to spare depending on the size of the socks.

Most sock yarn is wool or a wool blend. If this isn't what you want, you are of course allowed to knit socks with other yarns. But acrylic (what you probably have for your baby blankets) doesn't breathe well, and straight cotton doesn't have much elasticity. You could try a cotton-acrylic blend or even a cotton-elastic blend. You can knit at whatever weight you want, but even sock-weight socks are thicker than the typical cotton socks purchased at Target; more like a heavy sport sock.

Knitting socks is not a thing you do to save money. They are more expensive than buying socks. But they're nice if you like that kind of thing. I am a knitter with years of experience. I made a bunch of pairs of socks and it turns out I like making them but don't really like wearing them, so I don't make them anymore.

Alternately, you could knit everybody hats for Christmas, which would probably be cheaper and easier. ;)

[geekette]

Sock yarn is "fingering" weight.  Honestly, I wouldn't knit socks for others - takes too long and the fit is fussy.  I also wouldn't knit them from anything other than wool, or at least a fairly high wool percentage.  Cotton doesn't have the springiness of wool, so without elastic, it stretches and sags (there are a few blends that are exceptions; I still don't like to use them). Acrylics don't absorb. 

Why socks? 

[CommonCents]

Other ideas to knit - boot cuffs, gloves (my SIL made me a pair of fingerless ones), hats.

[louloulou]

sock yarn= 4ply, fingering or superfine. Depends on where you are in the world as to what it is called. Socks are good to knit but OMG they require patience! I generally avoid knitting in 4ply because it is so SLOW.

Other ideas I have made for gifts is wrist warmers/fingerless gloves. Lots of great patterns on ravelry.

[Rubyist]

You have to be a Ravelry member to download it, but there is a free pattern called Easy Peasy Socks for First-Timers that explains all the steps of knitting a sock very clearly. It's written for worsted-weight yarn, which will make a very thick pair of socks. I have a pair that I wear as slippers; they're too think to fit in any of my shoes. The benefit of starting with a worsted-weight yarn is they will go much faster!

[MrsPete]

Wow, so much information ... I'm not a super-strong knitter, so I'll have to read over this again and take it all in.  I'm a good seamstress, but yarn arts are a challenge for me. 

Why socks?  I dunno.  I saw something on Pinterest, it appealed to me.  I like to know how to do things in old-fashioned ways.  Of course, I'm not sure how old-fashioned it is to go to AC Moore and buy a skein of yarn.
No, I never had any idea that I could beat the price of store bought socks. 

I'm thinking I'll try some chunky yarn that I have left over from another project for a small, first project "throw away sock" ... and I'll learn on that.  Then I'm going to buy some of the real "sock yarn".  I appreciate y'all telling me it has other names too.  And I see the point in wool; perhaps if I stick to a low wool content I won't sneeze, but to be safe I'm going to buy only a minimal amount of yarn until I see how it affects me. 

And the baby blanket yarn I'm just going to hold onto for another time -- someone else will have a baby girl one of these days, and all that lovely pink will be used.  I won't wait 'til the last minute next time I know of a baby girl's imminent arrival. 

Thanks, all. 

[mskyle]

Using chunky yarn to make slipper socks or making baby socks is a good way to get started. Same techniques, fewer stitches. I used to knit a lot of socks when I took public transportation, because they're a good portable project. And I'm definitely on team wool sock - knitting socks from cotton is very hard on your hands, and the socks are generally kind of lumpy and unsatisfactory. And there aren't a lot of sock/fingering-weight non-wool yarns.

[Sunnymo]

Another suggestion for you; needles not yarn however. When I knit with 'pins' or double ended needles I use an extra pin. They come in sets of four and are meant to be used as three to hold the work and the fourth that you knit with. I find this to be difficult particularly when the work is small.

My solution is to have two sets of pins in the required size. Then the work is on four pins plus the one extra for knitting with. I find this a bit easier to work than four pins. Haven't done socks but have recently knitted some baby beanies in the round (too few stitches for circular needles) and have used my 'five pin' technique and it worked well.

Enjoy

[Megma]

You also might want to consider that not everyone's feet are the same size, so it might be harder to knit socks for people who aren't there to model their feet for you.

I know socks in the store are basically 1 size fits all but there are two considerations here: 1) your yarn (no matter the kind) is likely not going to stretch as much as the plasticy crap socks from target are made out of, so they might not fit the person you give them to 2) one of the nice things about custom knit socks is you can fit them to your foot and have a right and left sock that are contoured to your foot shape, if you don't know what peoples feet are like you can't do this.

Since you mention that you are good at sewing, might I suggest these for an alternate gift idea: http://sewing.about.com/od/freeprojects/ht/hangtowels.htm

I made these last xmas for all of my aunts and grandma, they loved them. There are a bunch of pattern variations and they use so little fabric you can easily buy remnants.

[MLKnits]

Socks are WONDERFUL knitting--practically everyone can use a pair (or ten, or twenty), they're very easy to carry around and knit a bit here and there as you go about your day, they're easy to modify once you get the hang of it (for instance, mine have extra-padded stitching at the tops of the toes and at the back above the heel, which is where I tend to wear through socks), and sock yarn is, while not cheap, widely available and often on sale.

That said, people are steering you right here. If you don't use wool, you are likely to end up with socks that simply don't function as socks: either they won't go over your heels or they puddle down into your shoes. Or both!

You're smart to think of the first pair as just practice, though I wouldn't necessarily jump all the way to chunky yarn (the most unmustachian of all yarns--very expensive and very, very high cost for your time!)--perhaps a nice sportweight, something that could be a good boot sock if it works out right.

For affordable sock yarn options, try the usual online suspects: Knitpicks.com, yarn.com, and so on. You'll want about 100 grams for a pair of socks, maybe 150 grams for someone with very very large feet.

Also, knit your socks TIGHT. Not pulling tight, just much much smaller needles than you would use for the same yarn if you were making a scarf. Fingering on US0/2MM, sport on US2/2.5MM, along those lines. Otherwise they'll have holes in them by the end of the first week, if not the first day. Knit them nice and tight and they can last for years.

[NumberCruncher]

cushy socks for inside sound great for the winter. ^_^

Most things marketed as sock yarn will not be for you, unfortunately, as they're mostly wool, as others have said.

Are you on Ravelry? If not, you should be! http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/easy-super-bulky-slipper-socks sounds like what you're looking for. Free Ravelry download. :D It uses this yarn: http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/hometownUSA.html , which is super-bulky acrylic. Any super-bulky soft yarn will work well, I reckon.

[ZiziPB]

Socks are WONDERFUL knitting--practically everyone can use a pair (or ten, or twenty), they're very easy to carry around and knit a bit here and there as you go about your day, they're easy to modify once you get the hang of it (for instance, mine have extra-padded stitching at the tops of the toes and at the back above the heel, which is where I tend to wear through socks), and sock yarn is, while not cheap, widely available and often on sale.

That said, people are steering you right here. If you don't use wool, you are likely to end up with socks that simply don't function as socks: either they won't go over your heels or they puddle down into your shoes. Or both!

You're smart to think of the first pair as just practice, though I wouldn't necessarily jump all the way to chunky yarn (the most unmustachian of all yarns--very expensive and very, very high cost for your time!)--perhaps a nice sportweight, something that could be a good boot sock if it works out right.

For affordable sock yarn options, try the usual online suspects: Knitpicks.com, yarn.com, and so on. You'll want about 100 grams for a pair of socks, maybe 150 grams for someone with very very large feet.

Also, knit your socks TIGHT. Not pulling tight, just much much smaller needles than you would use for the same yarn if you were making a scarf. Fingering on US0/2MM, sport on US2/2.5MM, along those lines. Otherwise they'll have holes in them by the end of the first week, if not the first day. Knit them nice and tight and they can last for years.

^^This. 

Hand knitted socks rock (I love both knitting them and wearing them).  Wool or wool/nylon blends are the gold standard for socks.  But I believe I have seen sock yarns that were wool free.  Check out some of the big box stores (Michaels, JoAnn Fabric, Hobby Lobby, etc) as I seem to remember seeing sock yarn there that was bamboo/nylon or something like that.  I don't think cotton would work for hand knitted socks.  They need to stretch and hold their shape and that would be very difficult to achieve with cotton yarn.

If you are not an experienced knitter, socks may be difficult to get right.  I would recommend hats, scarves, shawls, etc. as a better option for gifts.  Much more forgiving and generally don't require special yarn.

[Spiffsome]

Hi, I've been knitting socks for a few years now and have given socks to quite a few family members over that time. Some things that I've learned in the process are:

• 'Fingering' or 'sock' weight yarn is the best weight of yarn to knit socks with. The super-expensive $20/ball stuff isn't necessarily the best, but you will want something that's fingering weight / 4-ply / sock weight to work with, because it drapes better and isn't too much thicker than commercial socks. Any knitted sock is likely to be significantly thicker than a store-bought sock.
• Fitting socks for other people is annoyingly difficult. You may want to trim the Christmas list down to one or a few pairs the first time round. Limiting it to people whose existing socks you can steal and measure for comparison may help. Last year, I made my mother-in-law some exquisite lace socks one size too small. She grinned and jammed them on anyway, but I ended up knitting another pair in the next size up to compensate.
• Some sock yarns aren't machine washable. Some people don't want to hand-wash their socks. Matching the care instructions to the receiver will reduce the chances of your work ending up as a fuzzy blob in someone's dryer.
• A sock is basically a 12-inch tube with a 90-degree bend in the middle and closed at one end. There are a wide range of techniques for bending the tube (turning the heel) and closing off the end (knitting the toe). Try out a bunch and pick the one you like.
• It is possible to knit socks with either double-pointed needles or circulars. Neither method is morally superior to the other, but discussing the difference online is like discussing the different flavours of Linux - both sides have their zealots and no-one outside the group really cares. Pick the technique that works for you.
• Not everyone enjoys getting hand-knitted gifts, and not everyone will show the amount of appreciation that the effort justifies. This is especially the case for socks. They're not bad people, but it's difficult to explain to some people why they should rhapsodize with joy over something you can buy 3 pairs for $5 at the shops. I know yours will be better, but a lot of people are not trained to spot that difference.

I wish you the best of luck, and hope that your sock-knitting goes well! If you get stuck, there are a lot of tutorials online for the various techniques with pictures to show what it should look like at a variety of stages.

[Rubyist]

It is possible to knit socks with either double-pointed needles or circulars. Neither method is morally superior to the other, but discussing the difference online is like discussing the different flavours of Linux - both sides have their zealots and no-one outside the group really cares.

Hahaha fantastic comparison!

[tuckred]

This cotton yarn has elastic in it, so does have more stretch. http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/categoryID/34A570BB-00D8-4FB6-8082-B2FB862781D3/productID/A464B6D7-FE84-4262-93D8-1C1BCE9E26E9/ I've knitted socks for about 40 years, and I believe I made a pair out of this, but don't remember the details. I do much prefer wool; so sorry you are allergic! (not sure if I did the link properly...it's Cascade Fixation if the link doesn't work).

[MLKnits]

This cotton yarn has elastic in it, so does have more stretch. http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/categoryID/34A570BB-00D8-4FB6-8082-B2FB862781D3/productID/A464B6D7-FE84-4262-93D8-1C1BCE9E26E9/ I've knitted socks for about 40 years, and I believe I made a pair out of this, but don't remember the details. I do much prefer wool; so sorry you are allergic! (not sure if I did the link properly...it's Cascade Fixation if the link doesn't work).

Fixation can definitely work, but it's fiddly as all get-out; nothing I'd recommend to a beginner. (Part of the trick with it is being careful not to stretch the elastic as you knit.) As a last resort for a serious wool allergy, though, it does exist and can certainly produce wearable socks.

[SpinGeek]

I love my hand-knitted socks; wearing a pair right now of Regia self-striping sock yarn, which is a good German workhorse sock yarn. I think this pair is about eight years old. 80% wool/20% acrylic is the target mix for me; otherwise the socks wear out too fast, and it takes too long to knit a pair! I only knit gift socks for my parents (so they don't fight over who gets to wear them) and my husband. My personal best "under the gun" production was a pair in three weeks, but I've been knitting for over 20 years. I machine-wash my socks in a mesh bag, then hang them on the drying rack along with the rest of the clothes.

Learning with a thicker yarn for "house socks" is a good idea; I wouldn't go above a worsted weight, though. My first socks were Lion Brand Wool-Ease (75% acrylic, 25% wool); they are fine for bed socks, but not for everyday wear because they pill easily and they're too thick for regular shoes.

I'm sorry you're allergic to wool; for a knitter, that's like having a friend who's allergic to chocolate. :-) Out of curiosity, have you ever handled minimally-processed yarn? Some people are actually allergic to the chemicals used to process wool on the industrial level, but don't react to wool from a cottage business that uses more environmentally friendly methods. And some people are allergic to wool but not alpaca. (Those would be some very expensive and very warm socks though!)

If you decide to tough it out and knit with wool, make sure it's superwash. My favorites are Regia and Opal, but I also like the $5.99 Patons Kroy sock yarn at JoAnn's. Red Heart Heart and Sole isn't bad either, if you can get a color stripe combo that isn't hideous.