How to sell my car on craigslist without getting robbed?

[fallstoclimb]

We are finally, finally downsizing to one shared car.  Go us!  Unfortunately, the Carmax offer for our car was about 1K lower than my low-range hope, and Toyota was even lower.

So we are going to at least make an effort to sell private-party before going the Carmax route.  I posted the car on craigslist last night, and quickly got 6 responses, 4 of which were for-sure scammy and 2 of which were hard to determine.

I'm not a stranger to selling things on craigslist but selling something so high value has me nervous.  This is perhaps just my gut telling me not to trust the one individual I've had a few email exchanges with, but I'm not sure.  (Grammar is a bit off but maybe he's just older/bad at email; rather than ask where we were meeting he asked for my home address - which of course I didn't give to him since alarm bells were going off - just a few other small things).

Obviously we will meet the buyer in a public place, and I will at least take a picture of their license/ hopefully ask to hang on to their license while they test ride. However it just seems like it would be super easy for them to drive off in my car, if they wanted to.

And what's the safest form of payment?  We are asking $3800, which is a lot of cash.  My preference would be to go to their bank with them but that may not be doable.

[driftwood]

I've sold a few of my vehicles via craigslist and have yet to be robbed.  Here's a few things that can help, but there's really no guarantees:

1.  At some point before you meet, make sure you talk to them on the phone.  Not text or e-mail.  A short conversation can give you a few clues about their personality.  If they refuse to talk on the phone or when you do talk you get a bad vibe, then call off the meet.

2.  Don't just meet in a public place, meet in a place that has good cameras, is a family-friendly location, or maybe even a police station parking lot.  For one meet I had my wife drive to the same location and sit in her car and watch so she could call the police if needed. 

3.  I've ridden with the potential buyers on their test drives, but whether or not you're OK with that is up to you.  The safer option is they take the car for a  spin.  The worst they can do then is steal the car... but you're also sitting by their car when they leave, so it's in their best interest to return.

4.  Trust your instincts... you can back out of any meet at any time and you don't owe them anything. 

[Cadman]

Some good advice I read recently on the subject suggested you meet in a nearby bank parking lot. Lots of cameras, inherent security, and you can both go inside to validate the funds before handing over the keys.

Some states require a bill of sale, others do not. Write one up anyway (in duplicate) so there's proof of the transaction in case the car ends up abandoned, towed, used for nefarious reasons, etc. and the police come looking for you.

Also, make sure both your plates can be removed (no rusted fasteners) and don't forget your screwdriver.

[Noahjoe]

I sold my wife's vehicle on Craigslist for 14k - I rode along with the people. I just sold my F-150 Clownmachine on Craigslist for 24k. I let 2 or 3 people (I can't remember) drive it without me in it. It's got full coverage, and a stolen vehicle would be inconvenient but not the end of the world. I vet the people though, over the phone.  A few good questions/ideas:

1. How are you paying for the car? Be explicit.
     a. I expect to finish the transaction in your bank or mine. Does that work for you?
     b. You could also decide to only allow test drives to those that can prove funding - but this might be hard with a cash buyer if it's a huge sum (like 24k).
2. My terms are X, Y, and Z. Does that work for you?
     a. Depending on monies and how they change hands, this might mean going to the bank, or so on and so forth. Figure out what makes you comfortable.
     b. Be firm.
3. You can test drive the vehicle at X time at Y location. Do not let them choose.
4. For me car buying/selling is pretty stressful. Bring an impartial third party (preferably a huge one) if you need help.

There are a lot, and I mean a LOT of tirekickers on Craigslist. It's usually pretty easy to tell who's got cash/financing and who doesn't in about the first 3 minutes of the phone call. Probably because I think they weren't expecting me to be so forward. If you command the conversation you'll get less haggling, too. Remember this when negotiating: whoever speaks first, loses.

[Fishindude]

Some good advice.
Also, run the Blue Book numbers on your car beforehand to know what it is worth.
Almost everyone wants to "haggle" a little on price.   Suggest pricing 10-20% higher than what you will take in your add, then you have room to concede a little if necessary.

[btmarquis]

My approach on receiving funds: 

I also wrote up bill of sale (from a template on internet) and the title transfer required Notary.   This worked perfectly as I me them as I then asked them to bring cash or cashier's check to my bank.   We went inside and had the deposit made, and then used the Notary at the bank on the transfer.   Done and done.

Then, as mentioned above, got out my screwdriver, removed the plates, and was on my merry way.

[The_path_less_taken]

Unless you can verify the cashier's check AT the bank it was written on....I'd be wary. Too many faux cashier checks nowadays.

I'd also meet in a police station parking lot or their bank parking lot: and I'd want cash, or I'd want to go in while the bank makes out the cashier's check...not take one pulled from their pocket.

Being female, I'd want all this done in daylight, and would be hesitant to drive off with them, but WOULD insist they leave their keys with me when they went off on the test drive. And I'd like to see a license before they left, and the name should match what they told you.

If you're going to take a pic of anything, their license "for insurance purposes in case of accident" would probably be your best bet.

I think being VERY clear where your firm price is before even messing with them will be helpful to you both: "I realize people on craigslist expect to bargain, so I want to be clear: I will not be selling this car for less than xxx. I realize you need to drive/inspect it. But I need to hear you acknowledge that you can/will buy a vehicle at this price point, for cash, or it's a waste of both of our times."

[fallstoclimb]

Thanks for the advice everyone, this is helpful.

Since I first posted a very non-scammy buyer has contacted me and I'm feeling much better about the sale.  They are looking at multiple cars, will pay in cash, have a plan to get temporary tags, etc.

However, I told him we'd probably have to hold off on the sale for a few days as I haven't yet gotten a safety inspection.  He said he'd be OK with getting the inspection done after the sale (?).  I thought it was required (we are in Maryland) but now I am finding some contradicting information online.  Some places say it is generally the seller's responsibility, but it seems that really the only legal requirement is that the car be inspected before the buyer registers the car with the MVA.

That couldn't possibly be a scam of some sort, could it?  Overall he sounds very reasonable and is setting off zero alarm bells.  His kid is in college and he's buying him a replacement used car because the kid's old car was totaled.

[Mother Fussbudget]

+1 to meeting in front of YOUR bank/credit-union.  Handle the transaction and paperwork INSIDE with a bank rep once the sale is complete.  Meet the buyer on Saturday 10-2, or on a weekday during lunch hour.

In your post, ask buyers to "bring a photocopy of your drivers license for test drive".  Ask to see the original before handing over the keys.

[Clean Shaven]

I've sold several cars for cash (smaller #) or check (larger #).  For checks, I prefer to complete all paperwork in a branch of the buyer's bank, and have the buyer's bank's teller issue a bank check directly to me -- over the counter.  That way, I know that the check is good and funds are confirmed.

The banks have always let us run a few photocopies too -- e.g., filled-out bill of sale, title, etc.

[Cassie]

WE sold a car on Craig's list. I talked to the person on the phone & they came to my house. My adult son went on the test drive with them & they paid in cash. Very easy.  I did not let them in my home of course.

[Jeremy E.]

Posts like this make me glad that I live in a city with a very low crime rate. When I sell a car, I am in the passenger seat when they test drive. I've had people pay by cash, and also by going to their bank so they could fill out loan paperwork and the bank paid me.

[KarefulKactus15]

When I see the news, it seems like the people getting robbed are being stupid, usually.    They go somewhere with 1500$ cash, in the middle of no where with nobody around to buy an item thats so cheap its too good to be true.

So far I haven't dealt with any sketchy people, but I profile....   Also if anyone seems like they don't have the funds (people between the age of 18-24 seem to have this problem mostly) I don't waste my time.  So far, no one in that age range has the money so I don't waste time any more.

The best buyers are over the age of 28,  42-55 is best, buying a car for their kid. Or 28-35 buying  a car for their spouse. In my experience, people with poor english, don't waste your time, they want to haggle like nobodies business.

Know the BOTTOM amount your willing to take and stick to it. Walk away if they start haggling after you've stated your bottom.   And ALWAYS make sure its their time wasted if they want to be stupid. (Don't drive out of your way to meet them!!!! always meet at the closest safe place to your house, that way they have something to loose by driving 45 minutes back home with no car, and your out nothing)

As far as robbery, the biggest thing your going to get robbed of is your time showing the car if you don't filter out stupid people.
 

[oneday]

Also, make sure both your plates can be removed (no rusted fasteners) and don't forget your screwdriver.

California does not require that the plates be changed at the time of sale. Fallstoclimb, find out if this is a requirement in your state before talking the plates!